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How To Install Steel Braided Brake Lines On Motorcycle
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2022
- Installing Galfer steel braided brake lines on my track bike.
GalferUSA: galferusa.com/
DISCLAIMER:
Due to factors beyond the control of Nick Buchanan Racing, I cannot guarantee against improper use
of this information. Nick Buchanan Racing assumes no liability for any property damage, injury, or death incurred as a
result of the information in this video. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Nick Buchanan Racing makes
no guarantee of any particular result that can be achieved using the information in this video. Nick Buchanan Racing
recommends taking all necessary safety precautions when working on motorcycles, working with tools, and operating motorcycles.
Nick Buchanan Racing recommends following all manufacturers recommendations and local laws. Any damages, personal injury,
or death, as the result of the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility or the user, and not of
Nick Buchanan Racing. I am not an expert technician or qualified instructor of any kind.
This video is for entertainment purposes only.
Great tutorial, nice camera work, clear explanation. Great video, thank you!
This must be one of the best toturials I've ever seen man! I feel confident changing my break lines now, thanks!!
Youre welcome. Confident is a good feeling when it comes to working on brakes lol
Did you notice any difference in the brake feel after the swap to the steel braided lines? I have heard that it makes the brake feel more responsive.
What’s the difference between the regular and the racing grade brake fluid, higher boiling point?
@@Dirtywhtboy87930 yea it just give a more firm direct feel, less pressure is absorbed through expansion in rubber lines. With no expansion of rubber linea, all the pressure is directly applied to the calipers
@@Dirtywhtboy87930 the difference is higher boiling point yea. During street riding, regular dot4 fluid is just fine. If youre using the brakes hard alot like canyon carving or doing track days, the brakes get REALLY hot. The fluid can start to boil and that will cause fluid fade, similar to brake pad fade. Causes the brakes to get a spongy feel and not work so well. The higher temp racing fluid is almost impossible to boil so you can get the brakes super hot and they still work well, assuming the pads are also up to the job for high temps like using sintered metal racing pads
Better than revzillas.
Can we all just take a moment to appreciate the term "banjo bolt"? I don't know why, but I always smile when smile when I read or hear it. Hats off to whoever named that whenever they did.
Man you nailed It, if we have more tutorials like this we all gonna take the DIY challenge and fix ourselves, thanks for share!!!
Thanks for this, u came in Clutch. I did some galfer on my honda 1k but had a hard time with galfer for my 04 ninja zx6r. This helped me get the jist of evrything ❤ thanks bro
Youre welcome, glad it helped you out 🤙
You are a great teacher, my friend. Taking the fear out
Thanks for the great video. I'm putting apes on my cruiser, and knowing exactly what to do helped a bunch.
@@CaptainFishHead720 nice, apes mean you got a lot to move around! Glad i could help with the brake lines. One thing ive been doing lately that helps is reverse bleeding the fluid with a plastic syringe to fill an empty system. If you have trouble getting things filled, try that.
Great video, thanks. After syringing out the bulk of the fluid from the reservoir you can then open the bleed nipple on the caliper/s with a tube on them, and the rest will flow out through them, instead of getting so much spillage from the banjo bolts. Also, remove the rubber cap completely from the bleed nipple when pressure testing, otherwise leaks can hide at the base of the nipple where it screws into the caliper.
Super useful and detailed tutorial, thank you for that! 🙌
Excellent service good job very well done
Thanks. Good video. I'd only add that most likely on Japanese bikes you should use a JIS screwdriver on the master cylinder cover screws.
Great videos. Thanks for all your effort and detail. It’s very helpful.
Youre welcome. 😁
great brake line replacement ever. Exactly what I am looking for.
Hello, everyone. I just ripped mine hose so I ended here.
Hello, hope the video helps you out!
@@nickbuchananracing It did, thanks!
Amazing!❤❤ Thx!
I’ve changed the brake line on my bike recently but I can’t fill the brake system with fluid. If I disconnect the line from the master cylinder fill the reservoir with fluid and press the brake nothing comes out. Am I doing something wrong or have I broke the master cylinder
I’ve been having a similar issue and just watched a video where the guy said to just tap the break lever until you cycle the air bubbles out of the master cylinder and you should start to feel pressure build up.
Show this video on a abs bike. Non abs bikes are easy to replacd
I replaced the brake lines with braided steel lines on my 2014 Honda NC700X. It is impossible to fill the front brake line with brake fluid. I backed out the nipple thing 2 turns, poured brake fluid into the reservoir & pulled the brake lever at least 100 times & nothing happened. I may have to remove the line & see if it's blocked. Or ride my bike to the dealer without a front brake. 32 mile highway ride through heavy traffic & 75 mph speed limit. Fun. Rear brake was not a problem.
Ive had that problem once. Get a plastic syringe and a short piece of tubing, open the bleed screw, open the reservoir cap, and force brake fluid up the bleed screw, reverse direction. Then once you get some fluid in the lines, bleed like normal. Its called reverse bleeding. It helps sometimes
@@nickbuchananracing Thanks very much. I'll try this.
It worked! Thank you.
Awesome video. Thanks
Youre welcome !
Great video, thanks
Great video. Why not just pump the fluid out via the bleeder screw vs suck it out from the reservoir?
Either way is fine. Just less fluid to pump out.
Got to reverse bleed them and done !!
ive seen videos of that. havent done it yet though. looks like it works pretty well. If i ever have a set thats troublesome I may try that. But for my single caliper and single line set up, it got moving pretty easily.
Super helpful thx!
Youre welcome🤙
Great video ,,,, thank you !!!
Youre welcome, thanks dude
For some reason when i pump the lever the fluid doesnt move. Just stays in the reservoir, bleeder screw open
Leave the screw open several turns and pump the lever a bunch and see if you can get it moving. If not you may need to try reverse bleeding or use a vacuum bleeder
I am in the middle of replacing my brake line. I noticed that each end of the brake line has two sizes width. Which side goes toward the master cylinder? The wide or narrow? I foolishly did not make a note when they removed it. I did not realize that there were two different widths on both sides of the brake lines. I believe the wide part goes against the master cylinder. I also seem to have a lost one of the copper pressure washers. Where can I get them? Thank you.
the hole on the banjo bolt and the brake lines has to be line up correct?
Good question! No there is space alll around the banjo bolt for fluid to flow. No need to make sure its positioned any specific way, just assemble your washers, torque the bolt and youre good. Remember to test for leaks before you ride🤙
@@nickbuchananracing appreciate it thanks
For a sportbike, do you need to take the fairings off? Great tutorial btw
You dont need to if you can reach everything, but it really helps to just have them off if youre having any trouble reaching or seeing what youre doing. Up to you. Thanks for watching
great video, do you have to line up the holes in the banjo bolt or is that not needed regards gary
Good question, no need to line the holes up. Thanks for watching
@@nickbuchananracing thank you
Ninja 300 track bike❤
I was wondering, you use the OEM master cylinder, don’t you face any issues with it hitting the bodywork?
No, its close, but just barley clears the hotbodies bodywork i have on it. I also have the db holders upper fairing stay which is ever so slightly lower and further back than the stock one, but even so, i dont think i had problems when i was running the stock fairing stay either
thanks !
youre welcome. thanks for watching
Excellent
For the rear brake, how did you top up the brake fluid since you're using a rear brake delete kit? Do you use a syringe or a small funnel? I have a rear brake delete but yet to install. Is there any danger of the cap flying off when things get hot since there is not as much space in there as with an original larger reservoir? I use my bike for street as well so the rear brake gets some use sometimes.
Sorry for late response. Notifications turned off by mistake. I use a small funnel with a super skinny tip. I dont think there are any issues with pressure build up as long as you leave a adequate air gap. I dont know if there is a standard amount that is agreed upon but I figured leave as much air space as fluid space and that should allow for a chamber of air for expansion and compression of fluid. If you rear brake (as u should for casual street riding) keep an eye on that fluid level and make sure it doesnt get too low. I dont use rear brake for track so I never worry but for a street bike, I dont know if its a great idea if you use the rear a good bit.
@@nickbuchananracing Thanks. I'm likely going to keep the regular reservoir on since the bike is used for street as well.
You should buy or diy a JIS screwdriver as that phillips is killing those screws.
Yea I need a set. They are holding up for now...you would think all the tools ive bought I would have by now lol
what size tubing did you use?? roughly? just wondering what size ID I should get to make that snug fit
I dont remember sorry. I would take the lines apart then just completely remove the bleeder screw and take it with u to the store.
Why didnt you crack the top reservoir then drain from the bleed nipple at the calipers first. Woulda made the entire job easier
Maybe, but seems like no matter how you do it, you arent getting all the fluid out , some is gonna spill when you take the lines off either way. But i get what youre saying
Is it same between brake line for install on ABS & Non ABS bike?
should be the same but the hoses will take a different route to go through an abs unit. If your bike has abs, I would recommend you use a repair manual to help you out.
Haynes or Cyclepedia make great manuals.
can u make a tutroial on motorcycle that comes with abs system? thank you
It's the same steps. Just extra lines to deal with
@@GuitarGuy650 I see! Thanks!
In order to minimize spills of brake fluid, I lust punch a small hole in the aluminum foil cover of a new bottle
Bro please help my steel braided brake line is too long how should I cut them and make them short
well you dont want to cut them. that would be stupid... obvously you should just put them in the dryer on high and they will shrink right up.
@@nickbuchananracing I didn't understand brother please explain properly. today I have purchased steel braided brake and it fitted in my bike but not properly oil is not bleeding properly because due to long length I made brake line circular from middle so it's fit properly but at the end it's taking too much time to bleed
@@botgamer3232 leave the bleed screw open and pump the brake lever a bunch and try to get it flowing, or just leave the screw open and gravity bleed it by leaving it open for a little bit. if that doesnt work try reverse bleeding the lines with a syringe, just look up reverse bleeding. or try vacuum bleeding the lines. basically try bleeding the brakes some other way if you need and one of them will probably work for you.
@@nickbuchananracing let me try brother I it's starts working then fine If it will not start working then sure I have to cut some so it will fit properly tnq for replying brother 👍 have a good day
@@nickbuchananracing brake line became circular shape more then one round so I don't think it will work
You should be better draining off the brake fluid from the caliper and working your way up. Should be apply a vacuum brake bleeder tool. There will be much less leakage.
Yeaaa i dont have a vacuum bleeder. I had a cheap one from advanced auto and it broke in about 3 seconds lol
Copper rings are WRONG you need to use aluminium rings.
No. you're wrong. Galfer uses copper. Other manufacturers use aluminum.
Changing brake lines is a walk in the park...it's the bleeding where the ball ache beggins. Absolute nightmare.
open that bleed screw up a full turn or so helps me alot. much more open to get things started flowing
@@nickbuchananracing yeah i tried the traditional method last week on my Zx6r ninja. After 2 days of grief, I took it to the garage. For some reason I just couldn't get the front two calipers to feel perfect.
@@k1ortia what ended up being the issue. still air in the system?
@@nickbuchananracing Paitence the mechanic said to me. 2 days is way more Paitence then iv got..lol
Did you drain all the fluid out before installing the new lines , or just empty the master cylinder
Yes I drained them a little when I loosened the upper and lower banjo bolts. Its a little messy, use a wad of rags under the banjo bolt when you loosen it
Buy a good set of tools 😂😂😂😂