hello people, If you'r this far why not pull the timing cover, it's only the pully that is holding you back. Seal and fresh gasket are only extra cost. we did it this way, verry quick tabbing the sensor from the back out of the cover. and it's alway good to know that is the status of the timing. greatings from the Netherlands
Originally, I didn’t even want to take the water pump off 😄😄. I was just trying to get this job done as soon as possible with the least amount of work 👍👍 of course if I would’ve really had to I would’ve taken the timing cover off but fortunately in my case I didn’t need to 👍👍 hope all is well overseas brother 💯💯💯
I've seen a lot of videos on removing a broke sensor, the way I did it was using the cement screw with the washers , pb blaster, but instead of trying to pry it out with the screw, I use a socket big enough to fit around the broken sensor put the screw through the socket , screw it into the broken sensor and start tighten the screw. It came right out in 3 seconds. The socket is like using a damper pull. The only thing I had to remove was the air box and water pump. Easy peasy.
Besides the sensor I also think the Magnetic Solenoid next to it is the culprit. The car has a low/high speed settings for the valve timing. from what you described you seemed to be stuck in LOW mode. low power and having issues at high speed. Mine is the opposite. Gets stuck in high speed and then stalls when I come to a stop after the highway. Looking to replace the magnet and the sensor and hopefully fix it. BTW some people also replace the cam Bolt behind the magnet. It has a spring button on it which the magnet pushes in and out. Worth changing while you're right there.
@@fahimsultan1121 I was too scared to replace the solenoid. I also did an oil change and k&N filter. Be sure to use 5-30 dexos oil. I still get p0011 code and Stabilitrack coming on and off. However I haven stalled yet since the fix. But I’m scared at every stop. Im probably looking at a timing new chain asap. At almost 200K probably original it’s expected.
@@kraven4444 no it doesn’t go in any particular way. I did the bolt the magnets oil change had a few good hundred miles. Now I’m worse off then square 1. I have the lights come on and when coming to stop from speed. It shuts off and have to wait for it to cool down and then eventually it will restart. I’m thinking I’m going to go back down there and disconnect the plug for the cam magnet and drive and see what happens.
@@kraven4444 and fuk me this has been a pos while working and trying to figure this out. I’ve done an engine overhaul brought back a Range Rover to life and with this stupid thing I’ve fired the parts canon and I don’t have a smoking gun. I don’t mind even doing an oil pump and cam but I need a smoking gun. How is it possible I got 3 weeks with no issues no codes nothing. I’ve had 5 vehicles of this platform and only one has been a cherry 4 others all lemons. This is the last one.
I think my 08 is doing the same today it randomly turned off coming off the highway. I noticed after everytime i change the oil it never does it till its stime for a oil change. Also my stabilitrak and traction control light come on and stay on
Yes, might be the oil control valve or might need a new o-ring around pick up tube. I have another video on the timing overhaul I did for the truck, here it is: ua-cam.com/video/4FouJrrSJTs/v-deo.htmlsi=jxVaOtWJxG3HWcBE
I had the same code and replaced my magnet, vvt solenoid , and camshaft sensor. Soon as I put those parts in I start the vehicle and it takes for ever to start and gave me codes p0340 and p0341 this was an issue I didn’t have before. My previous issues were fixed by watching this video but now I’m stuck and need help figuring out if this new issue is related to the p0011 code ?
This code can also be a stretched timing chain among other things. So nothing is guaranteed. Start with the cheapest possible fix.. an oil change. Use Only what’s recommended and a good filter. Could be a stretched timing chain.
Depends on symptoms and year.. I think some Escalade years and different model Cadillacs give different code reading output for different make and model/year. If your vehicle is an older model (ie 2007 to 2014) you might want to just replace the positive and negative cables and drop in a new battery first before ripping too much apart. Having older cables and/or faulty battery can cause strange and crazy electrical issues on these trucks where gauges go haywire and electrical problem seems to be much more serious than just new cables and battery, but I myself was surprised recently when this happened to me and me and my family got stranded because the gauges and lights and TCM module and BCM module was acting up because of all this but it turned out it just needed new cables and a new battery and now she’s good to go 👍 .. if it turns out it needs a cam position sensor for a 07 Escalade 6.2L L94 this is an instructional video from my perspective anyway. Hope the video helps bud and you’re able to find and fix the issue 👍👍
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hello people,
If you'r this far why not pull the timing cover, it's only the pully that is holding you back. Seal and fresh gasket are only extra cost.
we did it this way, verry quick tabbing the sensor from the back out of the cover. and it's alway good to know that is the status of the timing.
greatings from the Netherlands
Originally, I didn’t even want to take the water pump off 😄😄. I was just trying to get this job done as soon as possible with the least amount of work 👍👍 of course if I would’ve really had to I would’ve taken the timing cover off but fortunately in my case I didn’t need to 👍👍 hope all is well overseas brother 💯💯💯
I've seen a lot of videos on removing a broke sensor, the way I did it was using the cement screw with the washers , pb blaster, but instead of trying to pry it out with the screw, I use a socket big enough to fit around the broken sensor put the screw through the socket , screw it into the broken sensor and start tighten the screw. It came right out in 3 seconds. The socket is like using a damper pull. The only thing I had to remove was the air box and water pump. Easy peasy.
Genius!
Does the screw need to be longer than the socket?
Besides the sensor I also think the Magnetic Solenoid next to it is the culprit. The car has a low/high speed settings for the valve timing. from what you described you seemed to be stuck in LOW mode. low power and having issues at high speed. Mine is the opposite. Gets stuck in high speed and then stalls when I come to a stop after the highway. Looking to replace the magnet and the sensor and hopefully fix it. BTW some people also replace the cam Bolt behind the magnet. It has a spring button on it which the magnet pushes in and out. Worth changing while you're right there.
Hey I’m going through the same thing. Done the magnet the solenoid the cam sensor and still have the stalling issue. Did yours get resolved?
@@fahimsultan1121 I was too scared to replace the solenoid. I also did an oil change and k&N filter. Be sure to use 5-30 dexos oil. I still get p0011 code and Stabilitrack coming on and off. However I haven stalled yet since the fix. But I’m scared at every stop. Im probably looking at a timing new chain asap. At almost 200K probably original it’s expected.
@@fahimsultan1121 my new solenoid bolt had markings letters on it. Does it have to face a certain way?
@@kraven4444 no it doesn’t go in any particular way. I did the bolt the magnets oil change had a few good hundred miles. Now I’m worse off then square 1. I have the lights come on and when coming to stop from speed. It shuts off and have to wait for it to cool down and then eventually it will restart. I’m thinking I’m going to go back down there and disconnect the plug for the cam magnet and drive and see what happens.
@@kraven4444 and fuk me this has been a pos while working and trying to figure this out. I’ve done an engine overhaul brought back a Range Rover to life and with this stupid thing I’ve fired the parts canon and I don’t have a smoking gun. I don’t mind even doing an oil pump and cam but I need a smoking gun. How is it possible I got 3 weeks with no issues no codes nothing. I’ve had 5 vehicles of this platform and only one has been a cherry 4 others all lemons. This is the last one.
Big thanks for this video, really saved my ass.
I think my 08 is doing the same today it randomly turned off coming off the highway. I noticed after everytime i change the oil it never does it till its stime for a oil change. Also my stabilitrak and traction control light come on and stay on
Yes, might be the oil control valve or might need a new o-ring around pick up tube. I have another video on the timing overhaul I did for the truck, here it is: ua-cam.com/video/4FouJrrSJTs/v-deo.htmlsi=jxVaOtWJxG3HWcBE
I had the same code and replaced my magnet, vvt solenoid , and camshaft sensor. Soon as I put those parts in I start the vehicle and it takes for ever to start and gave me codes p0340 and p0341 this was an issue I didn’t have before. My previous issues were fixed by watching this video but now I’m stuck and need help figuring out if this new issue is related to the p0011 code ?
Have you tried retracing your steps? Sounds like you might have forgot to plug an electrical plug back into the camshaft position sensor
Have the p0011 code have come back again after cams position sensor replacement?
Yes, the light went away and hasn’t come back. 👍
If you’re changing this part on your vehicle I would also consider changing the cam solenoid and oil control valve bolt if you can.👍
This code can also be a stretched timing chain among other things. So nothing is guaranteed. Start with the cheapest possible fix.. an oil change. Use Only what’s recommended and a good filter. Could be a stretched timing chain.
@@rezcarguyz26 I was scared to do the Bolt. Any trick or issues? Mine had markings on the new one. Any specific position??
Some have mentioned that an alternator going bad has triggered this code too. Something to consider.
I got P0341 that I can't trace...may be the ECM is bad or the reluctor wheel may be bad.
What year?
Depends on symptoms and year.. I think some Escalade years and different model Cadillacs give different code reading output for different make and model/year. If your vehicle is an older model (ie 2007 to 2014) you might want to just replace the positive and negative cables and drop in a new battery first before ripping too much apart. Having older cables and/or faulty battery can cause strange and crazy electrical issues on these trucks where gauges go haywire and electrical problem seems to be much more serious than just new cables and battery, but I myself was surprised recently when this happened to me and me and my family got stranded because the gauges and lights and TCM module and BCM module was acting up because of all this but it turned out it just needed new cables and a new battery and now she’s good to go 👍 .. if it turns out it needs a cam position sensor for a 07 Escalade 6.2L L94 this is an instructional video from my perspective anyway. Hope the video helps bud and you’re able to find and fix the issue 👍👍
Thanks for sharing, so do replaicing cams position sensor fix the issue along this time driving it, or do the p0011 code back again?
Bro , i lost the back end inside and im about to turn back on now. im worried asf!
Master Magnetics 07229 Magnetic Pick-Up Tool, Bendable, Retrieving Magnet, 19 Inches Length, 2-Pound Hold www.amazon.ca/dp/B000H5QRV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KRED95334W6XDQ4WYDW4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Buy this magnet scope and try and fish it out if you can
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Can try this scope camera too 👆👆
I wouldn’t start it if you lost a piece in there man I would fish it out first if I could.
This a common problem they get stuck all the time wtf
When they're old, they do get stuck. The plastic becomes brittle and breaks. Very common.
This jobs a pain in the A$$