Awesome video, but this just reinforces in my mind that using metal shipping containers outside of their intended purview is very costly and time consuming. They are great as an inexpensive and extremely weatherproof storage shed, but once you start altering their design it becomes a losing battle to make them worth their while when you can just buy a metal building kit that is 30x40 and has a man door plus 1-2 roll up doors, pre-engineered for wind and snow, and costs about 10-20k.
@@infamouspaul32806 It depends on the manufacturer and what they were engineered for. Most engineered steel buildings have wind ratings around 140mph, as that is generally around the most stringent code rating needed for most any structure. They can be built for upwards of 180mph though. Yes, an intact shipping container that is properly secured to a foundation or concrete pad will have an excellent wind rating, but that all goes away once you start cutting into them. Once you start adding the costs of two 40' shipping containers, plus the cost of all that labor we just saw, plus the cost of shipping, you get well north of a basic red iron metal building kit that has 2x the space plus 1.5x the height.
@@jimyeats I understand the logic here and you make some great points, especially concerning the expense for having a company ship these with such mods. I used to work on containers (repairs) on a government transportation contract, though, and wouldn't hesitate to use them with such mods since most of the structural strength is still retained after losing a wall. Adding columns for support would obviously work instead of the overhead truss if one didn't require the clear space all the way across. It wouldn't be a deal-breaker for me, at least. In my mind, I would trust properly secured containers moreso than one of the steel structures (I've seen far too many torn apart in just straight-line winds over the years, so that's probably why I'm leery of them). As for the costs, you're probably right about the kits being less expensive per square foot. I've no idea what this particular design cost but even a prebuilt metal building without a floor cost a small fortune. I and another driver hauled two 20x20 foot metal buildings that had two man doors, no floors, basic wiring and two fluorescent fixtures in the peak (no insulation or other fixtures) from Denver to Chicago that were craned onto pads at an electric substation in 2020. If I recall correctly, each of those cost over six figures. Just figured I'd toss that in for more food for thought. :)
U are right, except than u need a concretefloor for ur shed thats another 15k. And if u ever need to move now u unbolt the containers and move them to a next spot. I use them for my store, I bought a house put 4containers in the yard and thats my shop. If I ever default on my mortgage I cut the welds off and replace them to a empty lot that I can rent and dont lose my income. Thats why I didnt want anything build. Also the tax on ur property raises if u build a big shed. This isnt concidered a building.
Your attention to customer service by making it as easy as possible for the customer is extraordinary. How you're always looking to make your designs better is amazing
Look around for alternative options. The whole concept is way to complex and expensive with no advantages, even lots of needless and very costly issues!
If you don't have a slab and are just setting it on the ground you could easily bareback under the edge of those floors with some angle iron. No sagging
The company I work for use an adjustable container conector, which pulls the containers much closer together and a rubber seal is used, I like what you done
Great video. Thanks for getting into the nitty gritty part of joining containers. Most container advocates lie or conveniently skip over the fact that the walls are part of the container's structural integrity. I pursued the container thing for years, but once I did the research on all of the costs of reinforcement and dealing with the headaches of working with metal, it was just easier and ultimately cheaper to deal with stick-built.
Yeah exact same route I went. Got a wood prefab modular for less cost per sq/ft than it would have been to get this done. Some insurance companies have issues with these as well and will charge you double the cost of a typical house
Thanks for this important cost and insurance information, as I have been considering building with a shipping container I already have. So now it's back to the drawing board!
If you build a shipping container house you wont need insurance its made of steel as long as you build the inertia with fire proof materials and if you don't need a mortgage from a bank@@jsunproter1940
Thank you for sharing.. So many people are now using these containers for homes, shop's & even underground emergency shelters.. Nice to see someone creating a business building them and going the extra mile and actually showing people how to DIY it.. Only sad part to this is.. I can see the price for them going up & up.. First they were almost giving them away, soon your going to have to get a loan to buy one..
@@malacruxnorman3162 I dunno. An 8 x 10 box was 4k if we did all the work back in the day. Double walled plywood on both sides. I understand wood is REALLY not cheap now, so I'd avoid til you need it. Or steel frame might work, too.
Great video describing how two containers become one unit. Excellent use of hardware and the supports before cutting off side panels. Thank you,and I look forward to seeing more videos from, "The Container Guy".
Exactly. You can buy a 30x40 basic metal building kit for about 10-20k that is 1200 square feet and has 10-12 foot high walls and is pre-engineered for wind and snow ratings.
@@jimyeats : Big deal. You can buy a 8x40 ft steel shipping container for $2500 each out of Houston. You just have to pay for trucking and crane charges. They have no problem with snow or wind because they are constructed out of 14 gauge steel. The labor costs of that 30x40 building are not cheap.
@@nitromartini1422 Yes, if you are just using a shipping container for storage and not modifying them they can make really good sense if you want a simple, durable, narrow, low ceiling height storage area. I haven't seen any 8x40 containers going for $2500 dollars recently myself, but I'm sure you could find one that is in rough shape for that price before you factor in taxes and transport fees. This video was about heavily modifying two shipping containers. The minute you start doing stuff like combining containers, cutting out sidewalls, buying metal, doing labor on them, their cost efficiency dramatically disappears. The 30x40 was just an example, and many are DIY kits. You could get a smaller versions as well. They are all engineered for wind and snow loads. I have experience with both modifying storage containers, metal building, along with standard wood frame structures and I really can guarantee that if you try and heavily modify a couple of shipping containers like they are in this video you will end up spending far more than you would for a comparable size building make from a metal building kit or simple stick build.
@@jimyeats : I have my own welding equipment, torches, metal cutting equipment, and much more. I have the luxury of being able to do all sorts of things that the average Joe cannot do. Those prefab sheet metal building are crap. I have a Miracle Truss 30 by 40 kit and I am not impressed. They are like tin cans compared to a 14 gauge shipping containers, which can be stacked and are highly flexible. Your economic and fabrication situation is probably quite different than mine.
As a wood framer and welder I can tell you I’m already on my third structure for the same size with wood framing (all by myself) and way cheaper as well!
There is a guy 20 minutes away from me who will sell you a 10 ft long shipping container for $1250. It does not burn and is impervious to termites. At the present price for labor and wood, that is a very attractive deal.
@@nitromartini1422 hello how can I go about finding cheaper containers here in Dallas I have been quoted 10000 for each I am looking to do wood and maybe a 4bedroom which I will open all for more room?
WOW Very good information which I have try to understand and look into those information for a long time. I can see other videos don’t tell those very important information as what your video showing. I can see you guys are building well and safe for the people who will be living inside. I would like to say “ Well done and good job. Please keep on building good things with a good attitude and good heart .”
Use the cut out side walls as roof between the 2 containers and fill in the end gaps and double the square footage. One could also build a utilities room or wrap around porch or entrance roof as well.
. @TwistyTrav Im using the cut out side panels as roofing and yes , they have substantial truss under them . But you get a roof that will outlast all of us and then some. Meteors are no issue , falling trees.... etc.
Exactly what I needed to see. I'm drawing up plans for a container home and want 2-40"ft containers as a base and 2-20"ft also side by side on top. Glad you posted this so that we can see the room side. Great living space.
I was thinking of a container home in a greenhouse, the greenhouse would help keep it warm ( vents in the roof keeping it cool in summer ) and give an outdoor space - until I found out how much a greenhouse large enough to house a shipping container would cost. There is a you tube vid of some people who built a greenhouse around their home.
Way too much work and expenses. Alone hauling 10' is as costly as 20' or even 40' container. Wooden construction is way easier and cheaper handled, as well as you don't simply work with steel as wood! It is completely different and way more demanding craft ...
Nice work on the headers id like to see a 3 wide done with a pitched roof instead of just leaving it flat. I have alot of shop equipment and tools that would need more room. Awesome work
If you need more height the way industry does it is use a steel kit building to bridge containers (or rows thereof) used as sidewall storage. Not everything needs to be made from the containers. If you end up cutting off everything but the floor there is either no point in using containers or you could buy "flat rack" units instead for instant level steel flooring then build atop that. For example you could weld three 40' flat racks (ends removed for other use) side by side then join those to two 40' High Cubes (standard height boxes suck for shops, stand inside and see why I don't buy them!) as sidewall sealed storage. Top off with a Steelmaster style steel "container cover" and you have a structure you can seal.
This looks like a great product and could last the test of time. New these aren't cheap but maybe with used ones coming to market they will be a killer of a deal. I think a two person or three in two working weeks can build a garage 24 by 24. I know we used to frame 3,500 sq ft homes in two weeks with 4 - 5 people crew.
@@reydiaz919 If you mean the container cost itself, $4,700 for a 1 trip 40ft high cube. Those are probably what you want if you plan to make stuff like this out of them. You can go the used route, then you're looking at around $2,400 but they can be kinda rough. These prices are picked up from the depot here in Dallas, so it's just an example (I picked up a used 20footer today for $1600)
For a better overall exterior appearance I would plug welding the flat bar into place for supporting the floor/sides of the container. Also I would use a seam sealer between your materials to aid in waterproofing and eliminating those unwanted gaps in the structure.
Place I worked for made 20ft insulated containers with built-in side or end frames and gasket that could be connected in minutes with ISO connectors. Also multiple units could be connected for one huge room.
No worries, as long as tax payers money is available, right? Only wealthy institutions and public sector with sufficient knowledge invest in these demanding reconstructions! Amateurs should be adviced about how complex this field is...
Maybe next time you can install the sealtite or carflex before you spray the insulation. This way you only see the light fixtures switch covers and receptacle covers if you have any. As an electrician, I like to do a neat job:)
Still looks like it could leak. Why not build a truss roof over it and shingle it?? OR reuse the sides you cut out by using them as the roof. Now you have a steel roof with a pitch that can handle snow loads and due to the pitch, shouldn't have shedding issues. Hell, I'd bet you could use wood LDLs for your bridging!! Those twist lock things you used in the corners have to be very expensive too. Why not cut some pipe or tubing to fit between. Use snatch blocks or tuggers to pull the two together and weld plates to each to keep the proper spacing?? I'm thinking a lot of costs can be trimmed without losing any strength. I think you could even put three together and create one hell of a strong garage/storage/home!!!! I'm picturing 5 total containers to form a 2 story barn or home. That would give you 4-full walls to create a steel roof with. Hell the very top could be an attic!! Naa, I think I'd build a wood truss and sheeted roof so the underside of the roof can be foam sprayed and rock-wool insulated. At 3 containers wide, you could build 2x4 walls and run all the power and water in the walls like a stick built home, only this would deal with storms and fire far better than most other structures. Hell, it could all be set on a basement!!!!! Now you have everything needed and more room than you can shake a stick at! Only it would look like a container on the outside.. lol.... Ok, I'll quit.. I am just letting my mind run loose!! ;)
I had exactly the same idea. The only difference I would make would be to increase the height of the header from 12" to 24" to increase the roof pitch for easier runoff for snow and rain. That way you could fabricate roof trusses every 4 feet made from lumber or square tubing, spray foam the interior area then sheath and roof it the way you want. Lots of ideas for sure.
@@TheFlatlander440 can run vaulted trusses across to increase the pitch. Cans could then be spread apart up to 24' to make a 40'x40' structure. Stay tuned for a follow up video. We didn't want to overwhelm people on this one and figured it deserved its own video.
LOL, My GF and I put Three 40ft (high cubes) together by ourselves. Used Lam Beams to support the roof and made a garage. Really not too hard to do if you are motivated.
@@atlasshrugged3753 What are Lam Beams? Do you have a link to any documentation or an illustration of your build? How is it finished on the inside and how/where is the garage incorporated into the build?
As a retired union carpenter I'm pretty impressed. Do you do or have any models for homes? That spray foam must be very rigid to strengthen the top of the caps. Very interesting.
Plain nonsense, rigid construction doesn't necessarily make carry more load. How about humidity, mold, fire safety and recycling issues caused by the foam?
@@OmmerSyssel foam definitely not best, there is fire proof additives, yes inforce foam , ( rebare) ect. ( True no replacement for real construction). 👍
When I build a shipping container home I would love to hire you that’s what I say what how you explained everything it is nice you know what you’re doing
Awesome video! I love seeing all the details behind these costructs and you did a good job explaining it. i was looking into container house for myself or as an investment but actually found it to be more expensive overall than other builds.
jsun wrote "... actually found it to be more expensive overall than other builds." I was wondering about this. What made the shipping container more expensive than what other kinds of builds? I have a shipping container and have been considering getting started, so am really interested in the different costs. I'm in North Carolina, USA.
Do you use the removed walls with perhaps the remains of a damaged container floor to give an pitched roof. Instead of a flat roof. Perhaps filling it with spray foam for insulation from heat and cold coming thru the roof
Great reinforcement option to connect two shipping containers. You are still wasting material and a quick option for your roof slope issue. Just designed the header to accept a corrugated profile then what you cut you lay on top. There will be enough material to cover the majority of the seam/ roof centerline. Then you could use a standard ridge cap to cover. Just a thought...😁👍
By the time you’ve put extra metal framing all inside the container it somewhat negates any advantage it may have over any other steel or wood framed construction.
May I recommend that from the header to the edge of the container you use hempcrete to create a slope for the roof. This will do 2 things 1: create a slope for runoff 2: add a little extra insulation Just a thought.
This is awesome. I think if I were to use the truss system on a home build, I would do the 2 in foam on the inside and install a metal roof at a slope starting about 1-2 inches below the ridge cap. It would help shield the initial thermal load and allow for better run off. I'm in Texas though so I imagine you'd need to do some extra reinforcing for snow loads regarding the roof. Do you already, or any chance that you would sell just the truss and temp support beams?
We are not currently making them for mass production, but you can contact us at parts@thecontainerguy.ca and we may be able to customize them. Thank you!
Very forward thinking on this. Because the climate, why wouldn't you consider refer units? I've been using 40 foot refers at $2900 USD. Although not single use, they are in excellent shape, are fully insulated(3"), including the floors. Anyway, great product.
@@keltaruusutravels4024 I've never experienced any in 7 years and I'm in the deep South USA. The way these refers are built, the inside walls are stainless steel with a 3" cavity between the inside and outside walls. This cavity is filled with foam and laminates itself to the surfaces. This includes the ceilings and floors. The outer walls are functionally smooth and are very easy to work with to cut out and install doors or windows without the need to weld a frame. Additionally, the floors are ribbed aluminum with 3" of foam underneath. The ribs allow me to pay electrical and in floor heating if I want with minimal effort. I put a plywood floor over that. A regular hole saw can run a drain hole all the way through the floor for plumbing. To me, it's a no brainier for the value. I do use one 40' for a walk in cooler. Can't build a walk in for anywhere near that price. if you ever do want to find one, I suggest finding a leading company along any of the coasts nearest you, otherwise the middle men will gouge you for $10k+ Cheers!
It seems like shipping containers are more readily available, but the refer containers would make more sense regardless of the climate. The insulation works well in the summer and winter. Some of the refer units have soft ceilings that might not be good for high snow accumulation areas though.
@@alittlebitofeverything5090 Haven't seen any I would call soft top. The units I have are all stainless on the roof inside with 3"foam above with a sturdy steel too. These are the high boys as well, 9 feet overall. They seem to be concentrated in coastal areas with the leasing companies but can be shipped anywhere. $$
I love the bridge fittings. On a related note, have you a) found any lower profile methods of capping the top gap between the containers (I-beam or similar), and b) have you done any residential or commercial projects yet with additional containers stacked on top?
It's easy to have a 1/8" 4x8 sheet of steel sheared (you don't need to make strips of the whole sheet) to ~2" to bridge the gap then weld the entire seam with flux core (using a decent welding machine and a suitcase feeder which you can rent but I bought two Hobart Heftys at auction). I tacked to the slightly higher container (they're not all identical) then ran the whole bead. I beat the strip down to the lower container then repeated the process. .035" 71T-GS wire is common and lays down nicely. FCAW of course preferred since that beats dragging a cylinder then running the hose to the suitcase feeder. I welded the corner fittings together and the two containers to the end beams (I'd bartered for some large used I-beam) with 6010 and 6011. I foamed the vertical gap but might weld that over too one day.
@@obfuscated3090 I doubt that would provide the structural load capacity. Also welding to both containers prevent separation for transport. Bolted solutions can be unscrewed and reattached multiple times.
@@johndododoe1411 tack welding is perfectly fine. Professionals make it that way. ~1 cm every 10-15 cm is fine. Seal the whole with suitable silicone, or whatever high quality product recommended in your region.
@@OmmerSyssel You missed my point about being able to easily separate the containers for transport. Transporting 2 single width containers with a temporary cover on one side of each is trivial routine. Transporting anything double width is difficult because bridges, tunnels, tracks and roads aren't wide enough.
The parcel tape is good stuff but don’t leave it on for too long. The adhesive can get very well attached. Masking tape usually peels easily but often has the same issue.
Step 2: "Our team of ticketed red seal welders" weld loads of welds. I looked it up and: "After you complete Welding Level 3 in-school training and 4,500 hours work-based training, you will be eligible to take the interprovincial Red Seal exam"
A container park was already built in here in Denmark to provide much needed cheap rooms for students, I wonder how many countries have adopted the idea. It looks really nice by the way from a far, havn´t been to the place myself which is located in Copenhagen.
When I deployed to Kandahar Air Base, Afghanistan, I lived in 'K-Town', similar to your container park, with the doorway facing towards an open-air central corridor (since we didn't have to worry about snow or even rain very often). Up to 4 people per container, it could get crowded, but it was better than the tents we'd been using (40 people per tent, with officers arriving in the middle of the night and turning on the lights so that they could find an empty bed, half-shouting at each other because they'd spent the last 10 hours inside a C-130 and are still half-deaf from the noise, and you can't say anything because they're officers and you're enlisted).
Spark, I've been trying to find a way to get these thing used for very similar use.. Homeless people. They can be stacked, configured, moved etc... A 40' container could theoretically hold 4 10×8 units, then you can connect however you like. Bathroom/shower could be a separate container that can be monitored for drug use etc. You'd run them very much like dorm style living..
@@SDPBALLCOACH Yup, many Japanese live in extremely small spaces, so I guess the rest of us can and for homeless people it´s a lot better than nothing.
WOW! Buddy You Have Knocked The Idea Out Of The Ball Park! BRAVO! Bravo. Say As A Visionary Person Who Likes To Think Up New Creative Concepts. What Would It Look Like To Have ( 4 ) Of Your Shipping Containers The Largest Size & Open It Up & Then Have (4) On Top But Cut Out The Bottom Of The (4) Above You +The Bottom Of The Floor Of The (4) Above That. I Think It Would Be A AWESOME Home Theater Stage! Hell Ya, That Would Be Massive & SO Easy. So Many Variations I Have Already Drawn Up. I Currently Have Built My Own Self TRANSFORMING Home Theater Stage In My Spare Bedroom. Pretty Cool Concept But MY GODNEED The SKY Is The Limit When It Comes To The Possibilities. Loved You Video & If I Ever Win The Lottery Or Get My Inheritance I Would Love To Get Together & I Would Love To Buy Your Product As I Am Planning On Actually Living In My Own Designed Shipping Container & Your Incredible Product Is truly The Icing On The Cake. Would Love To Help Sell Your Product. Even Work At A Display At NYS State Fair For You. Let Me Know.
Hey, just wondering why you can't bolt the containers directly together, instead of the 3 inch gap. It could be difficult to reach, but once it's there, isn't it much more convenient? Also with sealing the edges, roof, and floor?
@@donnydice2460 i don't see the difference between bolting the containers together tight, or with the 3 inch gap. The gap will either be 0'' or 3'', but either way it's square, or it isn't.
One question (to improve insulation): if you drill through the container tubing, could you fill the tubing with sprayed insulation BEFORE bolting and installing the KIT?
Depends really your only winning part of the battle since it is metal. Also consider if it is sealed air space, air or airspace under vacuum lacking air is the best insulation. Foaming in a closed space can be hard it may require special care like injecting water or humid air to get the proper reaction. I have been wondering sometime if someone could design a tube that is one time use with bunch of tiny holes toss it in a cavity like that spray it and cut it lose. But for that steel tubing its hard to say foam would help anything since it is a metal thermal bridge. One would need to cut the corner out and replace it with say 2 angle irons gapped apart to reduce the thermal bridge. That would also depend on if your stacking or single floor install because the sqaure box corner is designed to handle the stacking of x-amount of containers. would need an engineer to 2 angle irons gapped say 1.5 inches apart with a 3/8 round stock tie between them every 1foot would hold the load of a single floor. If that works you reduced that thermal bridge drastically just like those fancy wood wall studs they sell now with dowels glued in spanning 2 2x3's to reduce thermal bridging and they hold more load than the 2x6 they replace mostly because one is 180degrees to the other. If i had a 2x6x10 per youtube comment (0.o) wouldnt be living in a house built in 1920.
Instead of adding all that flat bar to the bottom which is already an I beam that is plenty strong why not save the welding and steel cost and use either a steel cutting circular saw (which should give a nice clean and flat cut) or plasma cutter (after which you can grind the cut flat and smooth) and just remove the extra material from all four corners? If you need the holes for transport do the cuts on site it should be incredibly easy. Just have the crane lift the container a few inches, brace it with wood blocks for safety and then make the cuts. Your way seems way more cost and labor intense and just unnecessary. I'm sure it adds a little stability but it's unneeded and expensive. Also the video title says no welding and while I understand you probably meant when joining the two containers that flat bar on the bottom is an awful lot of unnecessary welding.
Could just add 2 square pads on each run and should suffice. Would make about 13' between pad supports. And add slope from ridge to side and can add overhang. Could be done on site. You could insulate for better heat management
My take was why waste all that steel at all and just put pockets in the concrete pad that is going to be sat on after all this prefab is done and it is shipped where it is going.
@@masterdebater8757 that's a good idea too if the extra concrete work isn't too onerous. But I still think lopping off a half inch in height of steel from each corner is probably the fastest and easiest way to do it. They have these steel cutting circular saws now that just zip right through steel. No oil or gas needed... Cuts it just like wood.
@@RemedialRob Would have to look at the corner tied box i think cutting that much off would open the tie pocket which is what joins the units and is used to tie them down but yes if done on the final site after box is full accepted by owner and if it is a permanent install ( life install). I think they dont haul these on normal flat beds the trailers usually use the tie boxes to lock it to trailer just as if it was attached to another box. Dont quote me on that though.
@@RemedialRob I was thinking since concrete is rarely perfectly level the concrete crew would have a measurement for the corners and just embed 2ft x 2ft plates of 1/2 inch ply into the wet mud while finishing giving a large room for error on every ones part.
Man these are just the videos I've been looking for Bro!! I like how you fully explain each step, also with picture diagrams!! This is so awesome!! Greetings from Down Under!!
It would seem to me if the container truss/seam between containers was well sealed there would be no need to "strut line"... Melting snow has no choice but flow off the open side. Also those tiny self drilling tel screws and light bracket wouldn't be rated for the shear load.. Strut on 8' lengths have tons of flex. Not to be a troll, just seems like burning money for the benefit.
I know you have a ton of business if you add preplanned homes on your site especially tiny they would fly off the shelf Love the channel great job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I actually screwed a timber frame on the top of the container. Blind screwed from the inside on the up side of the coragation. Put glass wool and then screwed tin I to the timber on the top. Works well. 🙂
I think that's why it did so well haha. Some many people commented the same. It was more meant that the header welding is done ahead of time by us then our electrician literally installed it.
@@1STGeneral We just got two more lifts commissioned in our yard and put the old girl down for service. Not much for Taylor service reps around Saskatoon but we'll get her fixed up.
I know we need one so bad. They aren't easy to come by. Need the $1500 press tool then the strut hog attachment. I agree 100% we need one. Thanks for the comment and view!
i would leave an 8-12 ft gap between them...add a wood roof there and 2 slopes to keep the water from accumulating on the containers and provide ventilation above the containers..also have vertical windows above the side of each container..also, you could have a truss-wall above the container, clearing up room below...A REVERSE BEAM
Look behind your left elbow! That oval oblong shaped square set of opening are called pineapple lock & key ways! Once you install the pineapple lock ways onto your foundation structure system you simple lock them down to the foundation, and then lock them together when they sit side by side, and on top of each other.
Go Travis! You can tell just by looking at him that he is the strong silent type! The true hero of the show! He is the one that brings the power to a liveless shell. The one that powers the light that brightens your day and night! Do not try to resist his awesomeness! God bless electricians!
Great presentation!!! Learning more about container homes. Would you consider doing 5 - 40' x 40' containers together with open concept ? It would help so in knowing how to connect them , roof or no roof, how to handle the span support inside.
These fancy custom built jobs are mostly purchased by large corporations for remote shop/office/storage. Think oil/gas and like industries. Money isn’t even a blink for them to order these.
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Awesome video, but this just reinforces in my mind that using metal shipping containers outside of their intended purview is very costly and time consuming. They are great as an inexpensive and extremely weatherproof storage shed, but once you start altering their design it becomes a losing battle to make them worth their while when you can just buy a metal building kit that is 30x40 and has a man door plus 1-2 roll up doors, pre-engineered for wind and snow, and costs about 10-20k.
What's the wind capacity on one of those? A containers is 180 mph and made to be transportable from one location to another
@@infamouspaul32806 It depends on the manufacturer and what they were engineered for. Most engineered steel buildings have wind ratings around 140mph, as that is generally around the most stringent code rating needed for most any structure. They can be built for upwards of 180mph though.
Yes, an intact shipping container that is properly secured to a foundation or concrete pad will have an excellent wind rating, but that all goes away once you start cutting into them. Once you start adding the costs of two 40' shipping containers, plus the cost of all that labor we just saw, plus the cost of shipping, you get well north of a basic red iron metal building kit that has 2x the space plus 1.5x the height.
@@jimyeats I understand the logic here and you make some great points, especially concerning the expense for having a company ship these with such mods. I used to work on containers (repairs) on a government transportation contract, though, and wouldn't hesitate to use them with such mods since most of the structural strength is still retained after losing a wall. Adding columns for support would obviously work instead of the overhead truss if one didn't require the clear space all the way across. It wouldn't be a deal-breaker for me, at least. In my mind, I would trust properly secured containers moreso than one of the steel structures (I've seen far too many torn apart in just straight-line winds over the years, so that's probably why I'm leery of them). As for the costs, you're probably right about the kits being less expensive per square foot. I've no idea what this particular design cost but even a prebuilt metal building without a floor cost a small fortune. I and another driver hauled two 20x20 foot metal buildings that had two man doors, no floors, basic wiring and two fluorescent fixtures in the peak (no insulation or other fixtures) from Denver to Chicago that were craned onto pads at an electric substation in 2020. If I recall correctly, each of those cost over six figures. Just figured I'd toss that in for more food for thought. :)
U are right, except than u need a concretefloor for ur shed thats another 15k. And if u ever need to move now u unbolt the containers and move them to a next spot. I use them for my store, I bought a house put 4containers in the yard and thats my shop. If I ever default on my mortgage I cut the welds off and replace them to a empty lot that I can rent and dont lose my income. Thats why I didnt want anything build. Also the tax on ur property raises if u build a big shed. This isnt concidered a building.
@@jimyeats do you have any video recommendations you could link that you like for metal building kits?
Your attention to customer service by making it as easy as possible for the customer is extraordinary. How you're always looking to make your designs better is amazing
Thank you Tony!
Repent to Jesus Christ “The light shines in the darkness, and the darkness has not overcome it.”
John 1:5 NIV
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Look around for alternative options. The whole concept is way to complex and expensive with no advantages, even lots of needless and very costly issues!
Wouldn’t a steel building built from scratch be an easier proposition.
Love the design. Great explanation of the floor sagging without the added plates.
If you don't have a slab and are just setting it on the ground you could easily bareback under the edge of those floors with some angle iron. No sagging
The company I work for use an adjustable container conector, which pulls the containers much closer together and a rubber seal is used, I like what you done
Great video. Thanks for getting into the nitty gritty part of joining containers. Most container advocates lie or conveniently skip over the fact that the walls are part of the container's structural integrity. I pursued the container thing for years, but once I did the research on all of the costs of reinforcement and dealing with the headaches of working with metal, it was just easier and ultimately cheaper to deal with stick-built.
Yeah exact same route I went. Got a wood prefab modular for less cost per sq/ft than it would have been to get this done. Some insurance companies have issues with these as well and will charge you double the cost of a typical house
Thanks for this important cost and insurance information, as I have been considering building with a shipping container I already have. So now it's back to the drawing board!
If you build a shipping container house you wont need insurance its made of steel as long as you build the inertia with fire proof materials and if you don't need a mortgage from a bank@@jsunproter1940
Thank you for sharing.. So many people are now using these containers for homes, shop's & even underground emergency shelters.. Nice to see someone creating a business building them and going the extra mile and actually showing people how to DIY it.. Only sad part to this is.. I can see the price for them going up & up.. First they were almost giving them away, soon your going to have to get a loan to buy one..
lol just build a shed from lumber bet its cheaper and a lot more durabel.......
No....they are not....
@@malacruxnorman3162 I dunno. An 8 x 10 box was 4k if we did all the work back in the day. Double walled plywood on both sides. I understand wood is REALLY not cheap now, so I'd avoid til you need it.
Or steel frame might work, too.
ua-cam.com/channels/hgqc40vNLGk0DaKRZstYcw.html thanks for following....you won't be dicived
Affordability was the initial idea of using containers
Great video describing how two containers become one unit. Excellent use of hardware and the supports before cutting off side panels.
Thank you,and I look forward to seeing more videos from, "The Container Guy".
Looks great, but also looks like an expensive process with all that labor involved and not even on the property yet.
Exactly. You can buy a 30x40 basic metal building kit for about 10-20k that is 1200 square feet and has 10-12 foot high walls and is pre-engineered for wind and snow ratings.
@@jimyeats Pretty great honestly.
@@jimyeats : Big deal. You can buy a 8x40 ft steel shipping container for $2500 each out of Houston. You just have to pay for trucking and crane charges. They have no problem with snow or wind because they are constructed out of 14 gauge steel.
The labor costs of that 30x40 building are not cheap.
@@nitromartini1422 Yes, if you are just using a shipping container for storage and not modifying them they can make really good sense if you want a simple, durable, narrow, low ceiling height storage area. I haven't seen any 8x40 containers going for $2500 dollars recently myself, but I'm sure you could find one that is in rough shape for that price before you factor in taxes and transport fees.
This video was about heavily modifying two shipping containers.
The minute you start doing stuff like combining containers, cutting out sidewalls, buying metal, doing labor on them, their cost efficiency dramatically disappears.
The 30x40 was just an example, and many are DIY kits. You could get a smaller versions as well. They are all engineered for wind and snow loads.
I have experience with both modifying storage containers, metal building, along with standard wood frame structures and I really can guarantee that if you try and heavily modify a couple of shipping containers like they are in this video you will end up spending far more than you would for a comparable size building make from a metal building kit or simple stick build.
@@jimyeats : I have my own welding equipment, torches, metal cutting equipment, and much more. I have the luxury of being able to do all sorts of things that the average Joe cannot do.
Those prefab sheet metal building are crap. I have a Miracle Truss 30 by 40 kit and I am not impressed. They are like tin cans compared to a 14 gauge shipping containers, which can be stacked and are highly flexible.
Your economic and fabrication situation is probably quite different than mine.
I like how it says "no welding" and it starts off with a bunch of welding 😂😂😂😂😂.
As a wood framer and welder I can tell you I’m already on my third structure for the same size with wood framing (all by myself) and way cheaper as well!
Wood burns, and your fire insurance rates reflect that. Also, termites don't eat steel.
are you saying wood can be used in place of steel for framing and that it is cheaper?
There is a guy 20 minutes away from me who will sell you a 10 ft long shipping container for $1250. It does not burn and is impervious to termites. At the present price for labor and wood, that is a very attractive deal.
@@nitromartini1422 hello how can I go about finding cheaper containers here in Dallas I have been quoted 10000 for each I am looking to do wood and maybe a 4bedroom which I will open all for more room?
Garza, in Edinburg, TX
Cool idea. I've always wanted to see what holds containers together. Pretty simple lock. It works on ships, it'll hold on the ground forever. 👍
@seekhimwithallyourheartand3358
This is why people think Christians are nuts.
WOW
Very good information which I have try to understand and look into those information for a long time.
I can see other videos don’t tell those very important information as what your video showing.
I can see you guys are building well and safe for the people who will be living inside.
I would like to say “ Well done and good job. Please keep on building good things with a good attitude and good heart .”
Thank you
Use the cut out side walls as roof between the 2 containers and fill in the end gaps and double the square footage. One could also build a utilities room or wrap around porch or entrance roof as well.
You would need to build a frame to support the cut out panels as a roof. The corrugated metal is not strong enough on its own for roof loads.
. @TwistyTrav Im using the cut out side panels as roofing and yes , they have substantial truss under them . But you get a roof that will outlast all of us and then some. Meteors are no issue , falling trees.... etc.
@@kylevantassel7259 good job on that. It's a no brainer IMHO.
@@LemonySnicket-EUC They are HEAVY however, I have a crane and use that to get them up there.
I do this for a living been doing it for 25 years now its amazing some of the things u can make out of them
WOW!!!! TOTALLY AWESOME BUILD!!!! HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCTS WERE USED TO BUILD THIS PROJECT!!!! THANKS FOR SHARING!!!! AND I LEARNED SO MUCH!!!!
Thanks John!
Exactly what I needed to see. I'm drawing up plans for a container home and want 2-40"ft containers as a base and 2-20"ft also side by side on top. Glad you posted this so that we can see the room side. Great living space.
@Seek Him with all your heart and you will find Him not sure what this has to do with shipping containers or why you would post this here, but ok
I was thinking of a container home in a greenhouse, the greenhouse would help keep it warm ( vents in the roof keeping it cool in summer ) and give an outdoor space - until I found out how much a greenhouse large enough to house a shipping container would cost. There is a you tube vid of some people who built a greenhouse around their home.
@@joejoejoejoejoejoe4391 yup. it's one of kirsten dirksen's videos, and the house is in denmark.
Your video production needs a shout out, great job. The animation really helps understand things
Yes! I loved how you put those two together!
For me, I'm thinking one 10' with one 8'!
Way too much work and expenses. Alone hauling 10' is as costly as 20' or even 40' container. Wooden construction is way easier and cheaper handled, as well as you don't simply work with steel as wood!
It is completely different and way more demanding craft ...
Professionals who know what they’re doing and talking about. Are a gift to the planet. I’ve subbed to this channel. Great video
Yes I need a Guarage up
On Planks above the Concreat so it can be moved when I move. Also if it’s portable it will not raise property.
Nice work on the headers id like to see a 3 wide done with a pitched roof instead of just leaving it flat. I have alot of shop equipment and tools that would need more room. Awesome work
Stay tuned. Videos to come!
If you need more height the way industry does it is use a steel kit building to bridge containers (or rows thereof) used as sidewall storage. Not everything needs to be made from the containers. If you end up cutting off everything but the floor there is either no point in using containers or you could buy "flat rack" units instead for instant level steel flooring then build atop that. For example you could weld three 40' flat racks (ends removed for other use) side by side then join those to two 40' High Cubes (standard height boxes suck for shops, stand inside and see why I don't buy them!) as sidewall sealed storage. Top off with a Steelmaster style steel "container cover" and you have a structure you can seal.
Excellent argument for shipping containers being great...as shipping containers.
Excellent brother
Very good job!
This looks like a great product and could last the test of time. New these aren't cheap but maybe with used ones coming to market they will be a killer of a deal. I think a two person or three in two working weeks can build a garage 24 by 24. I know we used to frame 3,500 sq ft homes in two weeks with 4 - 5 people crew.
How much it will cost 40ft container?
@@reydiaz919 If you mean the container cost itself, $4,700 for a 1 trip 40ft high cube. Those are probably what you want if you plan to make stuff like this out of them. You can go the used route, then you're looking at around $2,400 but they can be kinda rough. These prices are picked up from the depot here in Dallas, so it's just an example (I picked up a used 20footer today for $1600)
For a better overall exterior appearance I would plug welding the flat bar into place for supporting the floor/sides of the container. Also I would use a seam sealer between your materials to aid in waterproofing and eliminating those unwanted gaps in the structure.
I like the seal seam idea as a stress relief.
put a seam sealer between material before welding? lmao. What in the actual fuck?
"Appearence" its A FUCKING SHIPPING BOX!!!
@@DieselRamcharger tack welding is perfectly fine. If you choose this over thought solution at all ...
If tightness is needed, it is easier to check the containers butt-to-butt. No sealant will ensure tightness unless it is a metal weld.
Place I worked for made 20ft insulated containers with built-in side or end frames and gasket that could be connected in minutes with ISO connectors. Also multiple units could be connected for one huge room.
Would you mind sharing the name. Need fast build
@@getoffmydikk They do almost 95% government so fitting in when time allows would be lengthy and not cheap.
@@oldmanjimh3165 so what’s the name?
@@BentQuarter Kratos C5ISR Modular Systems
No worries, as long as tax payers money is available, right?
Only wealthy institutions and public sector with sufficient knowledge invest in these demanding reconstructions!
Amateurs should be adviced about how complex this field is...
This is such a useful video! I will share with my customers. Thank you!
Thanks for watching 🫡
This is awesome! We were also looking into putting 2 40s together, and the extra bits of info re: sag is super helpful, thank you!
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
No Welding? Are you kidding me. You have welding the whole time.
@@jaytrock3217 I think he meant for the customer. Its all done prior to delivery.
Maybe next time you can install the sealtite or carflex before you spray the insulation. This way you only see the light fixtures switch covers and receptacle covers if you have any. As an electrician, I like to do a neat job:)
I love that people are using containers for homes. I am all for repurposing for other uses and using containers is just one of those.
this is great i would love to build a container home when i move south im thinking of doing 4 containers so this was really helpfull
Still looks like it could leak. Why not build a truss roof over it and shingle it?? OR reuse the sides you cut out by using them as the roof. Now you have a steel roof with a pitch that can handle snow loads and due to the pitch, shouldn't have shedding issues. Hell, I'd bet you could use wood LDLs for your bridging!! Those twist lock things you used in the corners have to be very expensive too. Why not cut some pipe or tubing to fit between. Use snatch blocks or tuggers to pull the two together and weld plates to each to keep the proper spacing?? I'm thinking a lot of costs can be trimmed without losing any strength. I think you could even put three together and create one hell of a strong garage/storage/home!!!! I'm picturing 5 total containers to form a 2 story barn or home. That would give you 4-full walls to create a steel roof with. Hell the very top could be an attic!! Naa, I think I'd build a wood truss and sheeted roof so the underside of the roof can be foam sprayed and rock-wool insulated. At 3 containers wide, you could build 2x4 walls and run all the power and water in the walls like a stick built home, only this would deal with storms and fire far better than most other structures. Hell, it could all be set on a basement!!!!! Now you have everything needed and more room than you can shake a stick at! Only it would look like a container on the outside.. lol.... Ok, I'll quit.. I am just letting my mind run loose!! ;)
Love it! You are exactly right about a sloped roof. The ridge cap's slope is designed so a stud perfectly reaches the outside edge. 1.5:12 pitch
I had exactly the same idea. The only difference I would make would be to increase the height of the header from 12" to 24" to increase the roof pitch for easier runoff for snow and rain. That way you could fabricate roof trusses every 4 feet made from lumber or square tubing, spray foam the interior area then sheath and roof it the way you want. Lots of ideas for sure.
@@TheFlatlander440 can run vaulted trusses across to increase the pitch. Cans could then be spread apart up to 24' to make a 40'x40' structure. Stay tuned for a follow up video. We didn't want to overwhelm people on this one and figured it deserved its own video.
@@TheContainerGuyTV That's awesome. Thanks for the kind response. Cheers!
Yeah, I would do a truss roof, slanted so it cud house solar panels, and put the container building just underneath it
LOL, My GF and I put Three 40ft (high cubes) together by ourselves. Used Lam Beams to support the roof and made a garage. Really not too hard to do if you are motivated.
Cubes?
Seems like you could reinforce the ceiling by running I beams transverse across the top, which could be used as trusses or attachment for EV panels.
@@laneboone8739 yes, refers to the Cubic Footage.
@@atlasshrugged3753 don't I feel dumb lol
@@atlasshrugged3753 What are Lam Beams? Do you have a link to any documentation or an illustration of your build? How is it finished on the inside and how/where is the garage incorporated into the build?
As a retired union carpenter I'm pretty impressed. Do you do or have any models for homes? That spray foam must be very rigid to strengthen the top of the caps. Very interesting.
Steven. I have seen poultry houses that the end was were about to fall out of spay foamed. The amount of rigidity it gives is amazing
Plain nonsense, rigid construction doesn't necessarily make carry more load. How about humidity, mold, fire safety and recycling issues caused by the foam?
@@OmmerSyssel foam definitely not best, there is fire proof additives, yes inforce foam , ( rebare) ect. ( True no replacement for real construction). 👍
Very clear and detailed descriptions, excellent commentary.
Thanks for watching!
When I build a shipping container home I would love to hire you that’s what I say what how you explained everything it is nice you know what you’re doing
Awesome video! I love seeing all the details behind these costructs and you did a good job explaining it. i was looking into container house for myself or as an investment but actually found it to be more expensive overall than other builds.
jsun wrote "... actually found it to be more expensive overall than other builds." I was wondering about this. What made the shipping container more expensive than what other kinds of builds? I have a shipping container and have been considering getting started, so am really interested in the different costs. I'm in North Carolina, USA.
I wish I had u around to help a single mom build a home for me and and my two daughters. We really need of our own place. That's paid for.
Do you use the removed walls with perhaps the remains of a damaged container floor to give an pitched roof. Instead of a flat roof. Perhaps filling it with spray foam for insulation from heat and cold coming thru the roof
Was going to make the same suggestion.
Waste not, want not! Good idear
Great reinforcement option to connect two shipping containers. You are still wasting material and a quick option for your roof slope issue. Just designed the header to accept a corrugated profile then what you cut you lay on top. There will be enough material to cover the majority of the seam/ roof centerline. Then you could use a standard ridge cap to cover. Just a thought...😁👍
Great explanation mate - Thank you very much from Australia.
Thanks for watching!
By the time you’ve put extra metal framing all inside the container it somewhat negates any advantage it may have over any other steel or wood framed construction.
May I recommend that from the header to the edge of the container you use hempcrete to create a slope for the roof. This will do 2 things
1: create a slope for runoff
2: add a little extra insulation
Just a thought.
Just a thought, I am quite sure that they have it under control
This is awesome. I think if I were to use the truss system on a home build, I would do the 2 in foam on the inside and install a metal roof at a slope starting about 1-2 inches below the ridge cap.
It would help shield the initial thermal load and allow for better run off. I'm in Texas though so I imagine you'd need to do some extra reinforcing for snow loads regarding the roof.
Do you already, or any chance that you would sell just the truss and temp support beams?
We are not currently making them for mass production, but you can contact us at parts@thecontainerguy.ca and we may be able to customize them. Thank you!
Any local professional in steel can make this, perhaps even find a better solution!
Reminds me of when I lived in a box car for a summer, it had windows and a kitchen with a wood cookstove and two small bedrooms..
I love the idea of a nice home well done hello from Ottawa Canada 🇨🇦👍🇨🇦😎
Very forward thinking on this. Because the climate, why wouldn't you consider refer units? I've been using 40 foot refers at $2900 USD. Although not single use, they are in excellent shape, are fully insulated(3"), including the floors. Anyway, great product.
Does the wall padding collection of moisture over the years cause you any trouble?
@@keltaruusutravels4024 I've never experienced any in 7 years and I'm in the deep South USA. The way these refers are built, the inside walls are stainless steel with a 3" cavity between the inside and outside walls. This cavity is filled with foam and laminates itself to the surfaces. This includes the ceilings and floors. The outer walls are functionally smooth and are very easy to work with to cut out and install doors or windows without the need to weld a frame. Additionally, the floors are ribbed aluminum with 3" of foam underneath. The ribs allow me to pay electrical and in floor heating if I want with minimal effort. I put a plywood floor over that. A regular hole saw can run a drain hole all the way through the floor for plumbing. To me, it's a no brainier for the value. I do use one 40' for a walk in cooler. Can't build a walk in for anywhere near that price. if you ever do want to find one, I suggest finding a leading company along any of the coasts nearest you, otherwise the middle men will gouge you for $10k+ Cheers!
@@babaluto Thanks. That sounds like a great idea. Your post should be pinned at the top.
It seems like shipping containers are more readily available, but the refer containers would make more sense regardless of the climate. The insulation works well in the summer and winter. Some of the refer units have soft ceilings that might not be good for high snow accumulation areas though.
@@alittlebitofeverything5090 Haven't seen any I would call soft top. The units I have are all stainless on the roof inside with 3"foam above with a sturdy steel too. These are the high boys as well, 9 feet overall. They seem to be concentrated in coastal areas with the leasing companies but can be shipped anywhere. $$
I love the bridge fittings. On a related note, have you a) found any lower profile methods of capping the top gap between the containers (I-beam or similar), and b) have you done any residential or commercial projects yet with additional containers stacked on top?
It's easy to have a 1/8" 4x8 sheet of steel sheared (you don't need to make strips of the whole sheet) to ~2" to bridge the gap then weld the entire seam with flux core (using a decent welding machine and a suitcase feeder which you can rent but I bought two Hobart Heftys at auction). I tacked to the slightly higher container (they're not all identical) then ran the whole bead. I beat the strip down to the lower container then repeated the process. .035" 71T-GS wire is common and lays down nicely. FCAW of course preferred since that beats dragging a cylinder then running the hose to the suitcase feeder. I welded the corner fittings together and the two containers to the end beams (I'd bartered for some large used I-beam) with 6010 and 6011. I foamed the vertical gap but might weld that over too one day.
@@obfuscated3090 I doubt that would provide the structural load capacity. Also welding to both containers prevent separation for transport. Bolted solutions can be unscrewed and reattached multiple times.
@@johndododoe1411 tack welding is perfectly fine. Professionals make it that way. ~1 cm every 10-15 cm is fine. Seal the whole with suitable silicone, or whatever high quality product recommended in your region.
@@OmmerSyssel You missed my point about being able to easily separate the containers for transport. Transporting 2 single width containers with a temporary cover on one side of each is trivial routine. Transporting anything double width is difficult because bridges, tunnels, tracks and roads aren't wide enough.
The parcel tape is good stuff but don’t leave it on for too long. The adhesive can get very well attached. Masking tape usually peels easily but often has the same issue.
Would gas tape be a good choice? They stick well enough, and peel off pretty easily.
This is amazing I'm thinking about getting a Property lot And A continued shop would be great
I slept on these container housing unit in Afghanistan, Iraq, Qatar and Jordan. It's also used for bathroom, shower points and kitchen.
"no welding, but just some"
Haha, no leaks, just a little.
"No welding"
Step 1: weld quarter inch steel
Step 2: "Our team of ticketed red seal welders" weld loads of welds.
I looked it up and: "After you complete Welding Level 3 in-school training and 4,500 hours work-based training, you will be eligible to take the interprovincial Red Seal exam"
A container park was already built in here in Denmark to provide much needed cheap rooms for students, I wonder how many countries have adopted the idea. It looks really nice by the way from a far, havn´t been to the place myself which is located in Copenhagen.
When I deployed to Kandahar Air Base, Afghanistan, I lived in 'K-Town', similar to your container park, with the doorway facing towards an open-air central corridor (since we didn't have to worry about snow or even rain very often). Up to 4 people per container, it could get crowded, but it was better than the tents we'd been using (40 people per tent, with officers arriving in the middle of the night and turning on the lights so that they could find an empty bed, half-shouting at each other because they'd spent the last 10 hours inside a C-130 and are still half-deaf from the noise, and you can't say anything because they're officers and you're enlisted).
Llu
Spark,
I've been trying to find a way to get these thing used for very similar use..
Homeless people.
They can be stacked, configured, moved etc...
A 40' container could theoretically hold 4 10×8 units, then you can connect however you like.
Bathroom/shower could be a separate container that can be monitored for drug use etc.
You'd run them very much like dorm style living..
@@SDPBALLCOACH Yup, many Japanese live in extremely small spaces, so I guess the rest of us can and for homeless people it´s a lot better than nothing.
ua-cam.com/channels/hgqc40vNLGk0DaKRZstYcw.html thanks for following....you won't be dicived
WOW! Buddy You Have Knocked The Idea Out Of The Ball Park! BRAVO! Bravo. Say As A Visionary Person Who Likes To Think Up New Creative Concepts. What Would It Look Like To Have ( 4 ) Of Your Shipping Containers The Largest Size & Open It Up & Then Have (4) On Top But Cut Out The Bottom Of The (4) Above You +The Bottom Of The Floor Of The (4) Above That. I Think It Would Be A AWESOME Home Theater Stage! Hell Ya, That Would Be Massive & SO Easy. So Many Variations I Have Already Drawn Up. I Currently Have Built My Own Self TRANSFORMING Home Theater Stage In My Spare Bedroom. Pretty Cool Concept But MY GODNEED The SKY Is The Limit When It Comes To The Possibilities. Loved You Video & If I Ever Win The Lottery Or Get My Inheritance I Would Love To Get Together & I Would Love To Buy Your Product As I Am Planning On Actually Living In My Own Designed Shipping Container & Your Incredible Product Is truly The Icing On The Cake. Would Love To Help Sell Your Product. Even Work At A Display At NYS State Fair For You. Let Me Know.
I did have this idea a few times. And now I'm glad I didn't act on it .. 😃 It would have been way more work than what I expected.
Hey, just wondering why you can't bolt the containers directly together, instead of the 3 inch gap. It could be difficult to reach, but once it's there, isn't it much more convenient? Also with sealing the edges, roof, and floor?
I would think because of the headers if you bolted the bottom together the whole structure would be off square..
@@donnydice2460, that's no big deal, you can always shim them with suitably sized washers to bring them in square.
There needs to be more rigidity...
Containers are rather flimsy once any "structural" cuts have been made.
This actually looks pretty good..
@@donnydice2460 i don't see the difference between bolting the containers together tight, or with the 3 inch gap. The gap will either be 0'' or 3'', but either way it's square, or it isn't.
I would think it does not matter at all. 😇😇😇🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍
One question (to improve insulation): if you drill through the container tubing, could you fill the tubing with sprayed insulation BEFORE bolting and installing the KIT?
Depends really your only winning part of the battle since it is metal. Also consider if it is sealed air space, air or airspace under vacuum lacking air is the best insulation. Foaming in a closed space can be hard it may require special care like injecting water or humid air to get the proper reaction. I have been wondering sometime if someone could design a tube that is one time use with bunch of tiny holes toss it in a cavity like that spray it and cut it lose. But for that steel tubing its hard to say foam would help anything since it is a metal thermal bridge. One would need to cut the corner out and replace it with say 2 angle irons gapped apart to reduce the thermal bridge. That would also depend on if your stacking or single floor install because the sqaure box corner is designed to handle the stacking of x-amount of containers. would need an engineer to 2 angle irons gapped say 1.5 inches apart with a 3/8 round stock tie between them every 1foot would hold the load of a single floor. If that works you reduced that thermal bridge drastically just like those fancy wood wall studs they sell now with dowels glued in spanning 2 2x3's to reduce thermal bridging and they hold more load than the 2x6 they replace mostly because one is 180degrees to the other. If i had a 2x6x10 per youtube comment (0.o) wouldnt be living in a house built in 1920.
Instead of adding all that flat bar to the bottom which is already an I beam that is plenty strong why not save the welding and steel cost and use either a steel cutting circular saw (which should give a nice clean and flat cut) or plasma cutter (after which you can grind the cut flat and smooth) and just remove the extra material from all four corners? If you need the holes for transport do the cuts on site it should be incredibly easy. Just have the crane lift the container a few inches, brace it with wood blocks for safety and then make the cuts. Your way seems way more cost and labor intense and just unnecessary. I'm sure it adds a little stability but it's unneeded and expensive.
Also the video title says no welding and while I understand you probably meant when joining the two containers that flat bar on the bottom is an awful lot of unnecessary welding.
Could just add 2 square pads on each run and should suffice. Would make about 13' between pad supports. And add slope from ridge to side and can add overhang. Could be done on site. You could insulate for better heat management
My take was why waste all that steel at all and just put pockets in the concrete pad that is going to be sat on after all this prefab is done and it is shipped where it is going.
@@masterdebater8757 that's a good idea too if the extra concrete work isn't too onerous. But I still think lopping off a half inch in height of steel from each corner is probably the fastest and easiest way to do it. They have these steel cutting circular saws now that just zip right through steel. No oil or gas needed... Cuts it just like wood.
@@RemedialRob Would have to look at the corner tied box i think cutting that much off would open the tie pocket which is what joins the units and is used to tie them down but yes if done on the final site after box is full accepted by owner and if it is a permanent install ( life install). I think they dont haul these on normal flat beds the trailers usually use the tie boxes to lock it to trailer just as if it was attached to another box. Dont quote me on that though.
@@RemedialRob I was thinking since concrete is rarely perfectly level the concrete crew would have a measurement for the corners and just embed 2ft x 2ft plates of 1/2 inch ply into the wet mud while finishing giving a large room for error on every ones part.
excellent video. Thank you for sharing such detailed information.
Thanks for watching John.
Man these are just the videos I've been looking for Bro!!
I like how you fully explain each step, also with picture diagrams!!
This is so awesome!! Greetings from Down Under!!
Thanks for watching
It would seem to me if the container truss/seam between containers was well sealed there would be no need to "strut line"... Melting snow has no choice but flow off the open side. Also those tiny self drilling tel screws and light bracket wouldn't be rated for the shear load.. Strut on 8' lengths have tons of flex. Not to be a troll, just seems like burning money for the benefit.
That’s nice engineering.
Very beautiful job well done.😊
Thank you! Cheers!
Youe guys know youre work. Very impressive job. Quality and high uograde matierales. I highly recomend this company for shure.
That’s awesome 16x40 would make a nice little home
Appreciate the video thanks for sharing the info and details. This is a unbeatable system to achieve a modular 640 square feet!
Thanks for watching!
Great presentation! Great info. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
WOW super professional video production
excellent video with in-depth descriptions and points to points detailing
Great work I Like it brother
Very good job 👏 when I get the money I will definitely be calling you amen 🙏 GBYA AMEN 🙏 ♥️🇩🇴🇮🇹🇺🇸
I know you have a ton of business if you add preplanned homes on your site especially tiny they would fly off the shelf Love the channel great job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you! We have one pretty cool container home design.
For old hippie minded folks, this is magic.
Why didn't we think of this in 1969?
I actually screwed a timber frame on the top of the container. Blind screwed from the inside on the up side of the coragation. Put glass wool and then screwed tin I to the timber on the top. Works well. 🙂
great video, but funny with a title NO WELDING and you were welding major within the first 2 minutes and quite a bit of it haha
I think that's why it did so well haha. Some many people commented the same. It was more meant that the header welding is done ahead of time by us then our electrician literally installed it.
Container Home Video Tour Here 👉ua-cam.com/video/VxCrLFzv-E4/v-deo.html
How much
the cont
@@emmabyrnes8791 I was going to ask the same question yet I see yours wasn't awnsered yet 🤔💞
The container guy needs to call the Taylor forklift guy it's in need of repairs
@@1STGeneral We just got two more lifts commissioned in our yard and put the old girl down for service. Not much for Taylor service reps around Saskatoon but we'll get her fixed up.
@@emmabyrnes8791 pool
Red Seal Welder, got be somewhere in Canada their location. Engineering was top quality for roof snowload calculation.
I was thinking we could make a very cool Art-Studio store, out of the Shipping Containers, though.
أجل واتمنى لكم التوفيق والنجاح 💐مع تحياتي لكم من ليبيا
I could not look away... fascinating.
Thank you, i am finding this most informative
If you all are cutting a lot of strut. They make a hydraulic shear that makes clean cuts and no mess. Look for a strut cutter.
I know we need one so bad. They aren't easy to come by. Need the $1500 press tool then the strut hog attachment. I agree 100% we need one. Thanks for the comment and view!
Top shelf well done🇦🇺👌
Great design, ingenious product
Thank you
Nice job of video production!
Very good work
Comfort Insulation seems to be from Saskatoon, a small town I used to call home
Great video...well done thank you.
i would leave an 8-12 ft gap between them...add a wood roof there and 2 slopes to keep the water from accumulating on the containers and provide ventilation above the containers..also have vertical windows above the side of each container..also, you could have a truss-wall above the container, clearing up room below...A REVERSE BEAM
I need 3 … 40 ft together wow great job
Look behind your left elbow! That oval oblong shaped square set of opening are called pineapple lock & key ways! Once you install the pineapple lock ways onto your foundation structure system you simple lock them down to the foundation, and then lock them together when they sit side by side, and on top of each other.
Go Travis!
You can tell just by looking at him that he is the strong silent type! The true hero of the show!
He is the one that brings the power to a liveless shell. The one that powers the light that brightens your day and night!
Do not try to resist his awesomeness!
God bless electricians!
I showed that to Travis. He loves it!
Great presentation!!! Learning more about container homes. Would you consider doing 5 - 40' x 40' containers together with open concept ? It would help so in knowing how to connect them , roof or no roof, how to handle the span support inside.
my future at home gym will need this
Awesome project! Congrats!
These fancy custom built jobs are mostly purchased by large corporations for remote shop/office/storage. Think oil/gas and like industries. Money isn’t even a blink for them to order these.