I have 230,000 mi on my injectors (I did not know they were the original injectors until one just went out) nobody has these in stock for a decent price, so I was looking into maybe rebuilding them myself. I really liked the homemade tester! I'm going to have to build one now LOL. Thank you so much for the information!
Tanks for the video very helpfull. I have 180k on my injectors and starting to have an issue with at least one. Been running various different fuels. If you run WMO be sure to blend with 20% Unleaded gas let settle for a month and dump off the bottom 20 percent. This is where all the heavy particles are. Also with this blend I mix 50% diesel. My truck seems to make a little more power with this mixture. 1990 IDI with a 1994 turbo kit.
The injectors on my 94 are Stanadyne made in Italy. Yes I believe they are original. Currently the truck has 248k miles. Yeah. I need some new injectors.
Great info! Minor point, though -- you should consider putting your injector tip inside a jar and vent the jar outside. You don't want to breathe atomized diesel fuel. Also: have you tried pop testing your injectors on your WMO mix?
Thanks for the video. I am thinking this is my issue has well. I have had some serious hard starts and I am blowing white smoke wherever I go. My coolant level keeps drops meaning I have to top it off every few weeks. Does this sound like a fuel injector replacement, or a cracked head... or something I haven't even thought of?
I know you asked a long time ago, but I'll answer anyway. First, verify glow plug function. Next, check your injectors are working properly and not leaking. The exhaust smell should give it away. If it smells like fuel, it's injectors. If it smells sweet, it's coolant. If it's injectors, replace injectors, if it's coolant, look elsewhere. If coolant is the issue it's most likely the head. I would also recommend checking the oil cooler on the drivers side of the block, those are known to leak.
Thanks for video. I am changing my injectors now on a 7.3 idi turbo 1994. On passenger side under the fuel filter the injector has an extension on top and between the fuel line nut. Is this normal/standard? That one seems to leak around extension and return line very much. Thanks
+msredneck001 The nut on the #1 fuel injector line is a pulse timing adaptor. It is not necessary to keep, but if you want to remove it, you would need to get a #1 injection line from a van. Otherwise your injection line would be too short.
All Black Diesel that makes sense. I appreciate the info! So I need to leave it or replace it with a new one. I will try using the original first. If it leaks after changing injector and fuel return parts then replace it.
+msredneck001 I should have paid closer attention to that one on the video. I cannot remember if there were rubber olive bushings or o-rings in that fitting you could change to help the leak, but I don't think there are any. I think you may find it rather difficult to find a new adaptor and you may have better luck finding a #1 van injector line on eBay.
All Black Diesel no worries, I finished. I just reused the adapter and put a new fuel return cap on the injector. Doesn't seem to leak and runs really well.
All Black Diesel there were no bushings or o rings for pulse timing adapter. Its just threaded like the top of injector and fuel line nut. Snugged her down and good to go.
Thanks for the video man...i have a quick question....did your IDI smoke white at idle before you changed your injectors because mine smokes white at idle and when shifting it puffs a cloud of white smoke not sure if its my injectors or not so thats why im askin....truck is a 92 and still runs normally
Thanks for the vid! Is their specific torque you need to apply to the tips when reassembling them? I couldn't see them backing off during use because they are getting torqued against the head but I couldn't fine any info online about the tip torque.
+Pop's How To's I couldn't find any sources either. If I remember correctly, I just made them tight. They are pretty difficult to get off, so I figured tight was ok. Your tight and mine may be different, but it doesn't need to be over-done. I want to say I used a combo wrench to bust them off and a 6" long 1/4" drive to put them back on.
All Black Diesel tip torque 35 ft lbs injector in head torque 51 ft lbs.... 2100 psi for used na injectors 2400 for used turbo injectors youll pick up mileage and efficiency at these pressures..... took forever to find all this out
Ok, that sleeve, or barrel looking thing that slides down over the injector... Over the two o-rings. For the return system. What is that barrel thing called? And... what size are those o-rings?
Those are the return line caps. If they are leaking, you’ll want to buy a complete kit and replace them all. The kit comes with O-rings, but they are 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD. There is a guy on the Facebook forums for these trucks named Russel Mathis, he is the best hookup for parts on these trucks. Alternatively, you can do what I just did and replace the entire return line system with R&D IDI Performance injector rails. They also come with the O-rings and are a lifetime replacement at 2-3 times the cost, but well worth it.
Ok...? Nobody's going to stop you from spending your own money. Best case scenario, you buy 8 new injectors for $42/per from a company like OFI and you're sitting at like $350 plus shipping (maybe tax depending on where you live) and an additional $80 to have them pop tested/ matched. If you want them bumped to 1800 psi matched, you're talking more work...so add another $200. That means you're sitting around (~$600) the same price as a set of premium performance injectors from Conestoga Diesel, or close to it. I think your estimate is a little off. There's a reason I took the time to do this job and make a video. It wasn't easy, but when you have more time than money and a desire to learn and gain satisfaction of your own work, it makes sense to go this route. Do some more research before making unfounded comments.
And they're made be Delphi or Stanadyne. Delphi is the only current production currently. I'm not sure where they're made, because it's not advertised.
All Black Diesel k gonna just own up and say I'm sorry. Cause I am stupid. Now to make up for it Iill ask for advice. I'm thinking of replacing the old return lines with hydraulic ones that are clearish. Also can you recommend any places I can get sound advice on the low pressure end of the fuel system.
Clear hoses would be ok temporarily to troubleshoot air in your fuel system, but if you're at the point where to have air due to cracked hoses and whatnot, I would just recommend doing a complete return line kit. As for advise on the low pressure side (return lines and fuel filter back to tank) what do you need? The best places for advice are oil burners.net and thedieselstop.com both forums have a Ford IDI section with great members.
+Derrick Thomas I was able to get the shims from my local Pick N Pull yard. I pulled 16 injectors from various trucks and tore them apart to get them. It shouldn't matter what engine they come from as long as it's a 6.9L or 7.3L FORD IDI. I haven't checked, but I believe the Chevy injectors are a different style and wouldn't work. I also used the bodies from the injectors I pulled since they were in better shape than mine. Most parts will be interchangeable, the only part I noticed that didn't interchange was the body and cap from my newer injectors. They won't intermix because the threads are different.
+James Flores Not always. I've heard of it turning grey or silver, but mine has always stayed black. When my truck smokes, however, it is definitely white smoke.
+Frank Salerno the truck I'm working on is a 1994 turbocharged indirect injected engine. This was the same 7.3L engine made for the 1988-1994 trucks with minor modifications to fit a turbo. The engine was also very similar to the 6.9L engine used from 1983-1987. Many of the parts from 1983-1994 are interchangeable. However, caution needs to be used when looking for parts from a 1994 truck because that was the same year the 1994 7.3L Powerstroke was introduced, which uses no similar parts.
Jesus Christ what kind of operation you got running over there. Seems to me like spending a couple hundred bucks would be a lot easier. In the same breath don’t run waste oil in ur truck what’s the point? No wonder you only got 40k miles out of those injectors and you wonder why? Unfortunate
I have 230,000 mi on my injectors (I did not know they were the original injectors until one just went out) nobody has these in stock for a decent price, so I was looking into maybe rebuilding them myself. I really liked the homemade tester! I'm going to have to build one now LOL. Thank you so much for the information!
Tanks for the video very helpfull. I have 180k on my injectors and starting to have an issue with at least one. Been running various different fuels. If you run WMO be sure to blend with 20% Unleaded gas let settle for a month and dump off the bottom 20 percent. This is where all the heavy particles are. Also with this blend I mix 50% diesel. My truck seems to make a little more power with this mixture. 1990 IDI with a 1994 turbo kit.
Great video. I can hear you clearly.
The injectors on my 94 are Stanadyne made in Italy. Yes I believe they are original. Currently the truck has 248k miles. Yeah. I need some new injectors.
Anybody know where to get the kits? Google sux these days.
Or is this just a clean and shim process?
Sounds like you know something I need to know. Wish I could understand you. The "dead cat" idea may be correct.
Great info! Minor point, though -- you should consider putting your injector tip inside a jar and vent the jar outside. You don't want to breathe atomized diesel fuel.
Also: have you tried pop testing your injectors on your WMO mix?
Thanks for the video. I am thinking this is my issue has well. I have had some serious hard starts and I am blowing white smoke wherever I go. My coolant level keeps drops meaning I have to top it off every few weeks. Does this sound like a fuel injector replacement, or a cracked head... or something I haven't even thought of?
I know you asked a long time ago, but I'll answer anyway. First, verify glow plug function. Next, check your injectors are working properly and not leaking. The exhaust smell should give it away. If it smells like fuel, it's injectors. If it smells sweet, it's coolant. If it's injectors, replace injectors, if it's coolant, look elsewhere. If coolant is the issue it's most likely the head. I would also recommend checking the oil cooler on the drivers side of the block, those are known to leak.
Thanks for video. I am changing my injectors now on a 7.3 idi turbo 1994. On passenger side under the fuel filter the injector has an extension on top and between the fuel line nut. Is this normal/standard? That one seems to leak around extension and return line very much. Thanks
+msredneck001 The nut on the #1 fuel injector line is a pulse timing adaptor. It is not necessary to keep, but if you want to remove it, you would need to get a #1 injection line from a van. Otherwise your injection line would be too short.
All Black Diesel that makes sense. I appreciate the info! So I need to leave it or replace it with a new one. I will try using the original first. If it leaks after changing injector and fuel return parts then replace it.
+msredneck001 I should have paid closer attention to that one on the video. I cannot remember if there were rubber olive bushings or o-rings in that fitting you could change to help the leak, but I don't think there are any. I think you may find it rather difficult to find a new adaptor and you may have better luck finding a #1 van injector line on eBay.
All Black Diesel no worries, I finished. I just reused the adapter and put a new fuel return cap on the injector. Doesn't seem to leak and runs really well.
All Black Diesel there were no bushings or o rings for pulse timing adapter. Its just threaded like the top of injector and fuel line nut. Snugged her down and good to go.
You think If you bore out the nozzle hole a little would it push more fuel
Thanks for the video man...i have a quick question....did your IDI smoke white at idle before you changed your injectors because mine smokes white at idle and when shifting it puffs a cloud of white smoke not sure if its my injectors or not so thats why im askin....truck is a 92 and still runs normally
BAM BAM you probably need to put new injector return lines and o-rings in.
Thanks for the vid! Is their specific torque you need to apply to the tips when reassembling them? I couldn't see them backing off during use because they are getting torqued against the head but I couldn't fine any info online about the tip torque.
+Pop's How To's I couldn't find any sources either. If I remember correctly, I just made them tight. They are pretty difficult to get off, so I figured tight was ok. Your tight and mine may be different, but it doesn't need to be over-done. I want to say I used a combo wrench to bust them off and a 6" long 1/4" drive to put them back on.
Right on, thanks.
All Black Diesel tip torque 35 ft lbs injector in head torque 51 ft lbs.... 2100 psi for used na injectors 2400 for used turbo injectors youll pick up mileage and efficiency at these pressures..... took forever to find all this out
I thought it was 35 into the head? I torqued one of my nozzles to 35 and it leaks.
You are correct, 35 into the head.
Ok, that sleeve, or barrel looking thing that slides down over the injector... Over the two o-rings. For the return system. What is that barrel thing called? And... what size are those o-rings?
Please and thank you! =0)
Those are the return line caps. If they are leaking, you’ll want to buy a complete kit and replace them all. The kit comes with O-rings, but they are 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD. There is a guy on the Facebook forums for these trucks named Russel Mathis, he is the best hookup for parts on these trucks. Alternatively, you can do what I just did and replace the entire return line system with R&D IDI Performance injector rails. They also come with the O-rings and are a lifetime replacement at 2-3 times the cost, but well worth it.
Thank you. =0)
Are the 1994 and 1988 injectors the same because I have a 94 parts truck and I drive an 88 and the injectors look different. Both are idi
yes they are the same. There are different codes, but the BB injectors are best for stock. Also check out R&D for the best set of IDI injectors.
I would rather go to Napa and order new injectors from motor craft. Those are made in Germany. Then have it pop tested for 1800psi. In all $175-200
Ok...? Nobody's going to stop you from spending your own money. Best case scenario, you buy 8 new injectors for $42/per from a company like OFI and you're sitting at like $350 plus shipping (maybe tax depending on where you live) and an additional $80 to have them pop tested/ matched. If you want them bumped to 1800 psi matched, you're talking more work...so add another $200. That means you're sitting around (~$600) the same price as a set of premium performance injectors from Conestoga Diesel, or close to it. I think your estimate is a little off. There's a reason I took the time to do this job and make a video. It wasn't easy, but when you have more time than money and a desire to learn and gain satisfaction of your own work, it makes sense to go this route. Do some more research before making unfounded comments.
And they're made be Delphi or Stanadyne. Delphi is the only current production currently. I'm not sure where they're made, because it's not advertised.
All Black Diesel k gonna just own up and say I'm sorry. Cause I am stupid. Now to make up for it Iill ask for advice. I'm thinking of replacing the old return lines with hydraulic ones that are clearish. Also can you recommend any places I can get sound advice on the low pressure end of the fuel system.
Clear hoses would be ok temporarily to troubleshoot air in your fuel system, but if you're at the point where to have air due to cracked hoses and whatnot, I would just recommend doing a complete return line kit. As for advise on the low pressure side (return lines and fuel filter back to tank) what do you need? The best places for advice are oil burners.net and thedieselstop.com both forums have a Ford IDI section with great members.
Where did you get your shims? I have a pop tester from my Merc Days but the shims for those injectors are way bigger. Where did you get those shims?
+Derrick Thomas I was able to get the shims from my local Pick N Pull yard. I pulled 16 injectors from various trucks and tore them apart to get them. It shouldn't matter what engine they come from as long as it's a 6.9L or 7.3L FORD IDI. I haven't checked, but I believe the Chevy injectors are a different style and wouldn't work. I also used the bodies from the injectors I pulled since they were in better shape than mine. Most parts will be interchangeable, the only part I noticed that didn't interchange was the body and cap from my newer injectors. They won't intermix because the threads are different.
I thought ur exhaust was suposed to turn white when running blackdiesel
+James Flores Not always. I've heard of it turning grey or silver, but mine has always stayed black. When my truck smokes, however, it is definitely white smoke.
All Black Diesel ah ok
Dude! You need a dead cat for your microphone. I can't understand what you are saying, sometimes.
Ya that’s the hard part about filming with a phone. Feel free to ask if you have any questions though!
cool...one of the unicorn motors....they only made them for one year.....
Really? I have a 93
? What do you mean, because it's idi with factory turbo?
Your description and title say "IDI", as in "Indirect Inject" non-turbo, pre-94...
+Frank Salerno the truck I'm working on is a 1994 turbocharged indirect injected engine. This was the same 7.3L engine made for the 1988-1994 trucks with minor modifications to fit a turbo. The engine was also very similar to the 6.9L engine used from 1983-1987. Many of the parts from 1983-1994 are interchangeable. However, caution needs to be used when looking for parts from a 1994 truck because that was the same year the 1994 7.3L Powerstroke was introduced, which uses no similar parts.
@@AllBlackDieselWMO same motor, Franks being a tool.....
That rust came from the French fry grease you run in your truck.. Bad idea.
Can't here you
Jesus Christ what kind of operation you got running over there. Seems to me like spending a couple hundred bucks would be a lot easier. In the same breath don’t run waste oil in ur truck what’s the point? No wonder you only got 40k miles out of those injectors and you wonder why? Unfortunate
Can't hear a thing you are saying take the marbles out of your mouth