I got my ABL probe. My question is how the two Z Stepper are synced now? Befor they used the two optical endstops. In this video is shown that you have to disconnect them. What if i drop the bed one side lower then the other (for example: removeing a print that sticks a little bit to much or just handeling the machine, tiny amounts of missalignement are a key factor here)? Then they get out of sync? It could be managed by moving the head in the middle of the bed (Y-Axis) and probe on left side for left motor and on right side for right motor. But i cant see this in the video? If there isnt a method build in the Firmware to sync both Z motors this is kind of useless and i wont install the probe. Best Option would be the original Endstops for Z-Sync and the Probe only for the mesh (even though its pretty pointless for a glas bed).
The tool head moves from one side to the other a couple of times each time sensing the build plate. It then uses that data to level and sync the Z motors
I’m seriously considering this printer. Though I’ve heard from several sources the bed sensor’s accuracy is questionable. I already have a BLtouch How would one connect a legit BLTouch to the board?
R2 with Klipper, lighter X beam, small extruder motor, Volcano nozzle and buildplate from G6 would be great. Ball screws on Z would be nice too. And change door design: even your printer on video has misallignment and the right door doesn't close completely.
@@smokecali2599 I don't have a bambu (it looks nice, but I can't deal with such data blackhole). Of course, R2 is slower (heavy X beam, heavy printhead), but it provides claimed 150mm/s with 0,6 nozzle / 0,25 layer. Somewhere at 200mm/s extrusion fails (same 0,6/0,25). CHT nozzle could help, but I suppose even Chinese manufacturers can't put clones on their machines and original is overpriced. Anyway, there's no 24/7 job for my printer and most of materals have their own limitations. Printing quality and accuracy are fine, but motor steps required adjustment about 0,5% to move from fine to great (in case you need accuracy 0,1mm/100mm).
@@Rho-Tixfirst day impressions on the vanilla (without any addons, not even the sensor) FBR2 for me are good. frame for me looks straight, so do the doors. upgrade from Ender 3 for sure. the bed heater for larger prints need time due to some weird archidecture of the bed - there are big metal shims in there that need some extra to heat up. right-side filament roll mount is covered with abrasive paint, there are videos of people putting rollers in the printer behind the bed instead. the manual is trash. there should be just a big QR code to this playlist instead of any instructions at all which it currently does have. Prusa Slicer profiles are to be found after some googling. they should have the different software profiles uploaded with the rest of the files or added to the included memory card. I will see how the printer in stock form goes and after a week or so I will upgrade the motherboard to BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 and add Klipper with RPi3+ that I already have with added function of input shaping to get more speed out of it. so far so good
it doesnt man. I own this and 2 p1p units as well as 4 x1c units...my shop is a graveyard of retired units since the bambu stuff arrived last year. @@smokecali2599
Подскажите пожалуйста, что я делаю не так? Почему у меня не получается выставить рабочий стол? ua-cam.com/video/1oQ7cUbWkGM/v-deo.htmlsi=4FrOyttLZgckXOfQ
При подключении автоуровня все нормально выставляется и запускается печать, но из-за приклееного магнитного стола металлическая накладка на стол не прогревается до выставленной в меню температуры. В меню выставляю температуру 110 градусов, а магнитный стол прогревается максимум до 87 градусов в центре и до 70- 75 градусов по краям. Из-за чего пластик срывает с поверхности. Поэтому я снял магнитный стол и отключил автоуровень, но в без него в ручную не получается настроить печать.
I got my ABL probe. My question is how the two Z Stepper are synced now? Befor they used the two optical endstops. In this video is shown that you have to disconnect them. What if i drop the bed one side lower then the other (for example: removeing a print that sticks a little bit to much or just handeling the machine, tiny amounts of missalignement are a key factor here)? Then they get out of sync? It could be managed by moving the head in the middle of the bed (Y-Axis) and probe on left side for left motor and on right side for right motor. But i cant see this in the video? If there isnt a method build in the Firmware to sync both Z motors this is kind of useless and i wont install the probe. Best Option would be the original Endstops for Z-Sync and the Probe only for the mesh (even though its pretty pointless for a glas bed).
Hello, if the video doesn't help you, please contact this email address, support@3dflyingbear.com ，thank you!
The tool head moves from one side to the other a couple of times each time sensing the build plate. It then uses that data to level and sync the Z motors
Can you do a guide for Ghost 6? I want to put a BLtouch
I’m seriously considering this printer. Though I’ve heard from several sources the bed sensor’s accuracy is questionable. I already have a BLtouch
How would one connect a legit BLTouch to the board?
Thank you for your recognition, if you have questions you can contact our official customer service, support@3dflyingbear.com thank you!
R2 with Klipper, lighter X beam, small extruder motor, Volcano nozzle and buildplate from G6 would be great. Ball screws on Z would be nice too.
And change door design: even your printer on video has misallignment and the right door doesn't close completely.
Thank you very much
How would you say it compares to a bambuu p1p
@@smokecali2599 I don't have a bambu (it looks nice, but I can't deal with such data blackhole). Of course, R2 is slower (heavy X beam, heavy printhead), but it provides claimed 150mm/s with 0,6 nozzle / 0,25 layer. Somewhere at 200mm/s extrusion fails (same 0,6/0,25). CHT nozzle could help, but I suppose even Chinese manufacturers can't put clones on their machines and original is overpriced. Anyway, there's no 24/7 job for my printer and most of materals have their own limitations.
Printing quality and accuracy are fine, but motor steps required adjustment about 0,5% to move from fine to great (in case you need accuracy 0,1mm/100mm).
@@Rho-Tixfirst day impressions on the vanilla (without any addons, not even the sensor) FBR2 for me are good. frame for me looks straight, so do the doors. upgrade from Ender 3 for sure.
the bed heater for larger prints need time due to some weird archidecture of the bed - there are big metal shims in there that need some extra to heat up. right-side filament roll mount is covered with abrasive paint, there are videos of people putting rollers in the printer behind the bed instead.
the manual is trash. there should be just a big QR code to this playlist instead of any instructions at all which it currently does have.
Prusa Slicer profiles are to be found after some googling. they should have the different software profiles uploaded with the rest of the files or added to the included memory card.
I will see how the printer in stock form goes and after a week or so I will upgrade the motherboard to BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 and add Klipper with RPi3+ that I already have with added function of input shaping to get more speed out of it. so far so good
it doesnt man. I own this and 2 p1p units as well as 4 x1c units...my shop is a graveyard of retired units since the bambu stuff arrived last year.
@@smokecali2599
Подскажите пожалуйста, что я делаю не так? Почему у меня не получается выставить рабочий стол?
ua-cam.com/video/1oQ7cUbWkGM/v-deo.htmlsi=4FrOyttLZgckXOfQ
При подключении автоуровня все нормально выставляется и запускается печать, но из-за приклееного магнитного стола металлическая накладка на стол не прогревается до выставленной в меню температуры. В меню выставляю температуру 110 градусов, а магнитный стол прогревается максимум до 87 градусов в центре и до 70- 75 градусов по краям. Из-за чего пластик срывает с поверхности. Поэтому я снял магнитный стол и отключил автоуровень, но в без него в ручную не получается настроить печать.
Hello, please contact this email address, support@3dflyingbear.com ，thank you!