Fantastic video! My father and I tackled this on my 2007 Santa Fe this morning and this video was referred to often. Did the full job in under 2 hours. Thank Jim!
Just completed this job today, here are some tips. I have a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3 Limited. I followed the video exactly, and the first difference I noted was on the drivers side fuel pump assembly my fuel evap connector didn't look anything like the one in this video. Mine has a blue pronged clip that you gently pull up and remove, and then there is a white connector that has to be removed at the bottom. Gently separate the legs of the white clip that are facing up, and then pull the clip down. It helps to gently rotate the line while doing so, and be patient as it is very fiddly. My second tip for you is to use a breaker bar with a pipe or some other type of extension to provide even more leverage when installing the lock ring. I managed to get the lock rings free with just the breaker bar, but even after applying a small amount of lithium grease on the contact areas I could not fully reinstall the lock rings without sliding a pipe over the breaker bar to give me extra leverage. Otherwise the job was straight forward and not terribly difficult.
I just replaced sensors on my 2009 Sante Fe. My check engine light is still ON and the fuel tank now shows 2/3 full as compared it showing Empty all the time.
Jim--just wanted to express my thanks to you for your video. My son and I just completed changing out the fuel level sensors on his wife's Santa Fe. I was a little apprehensive about opening up the fuel tank to do this job. I even unplugged the garage door opener before we began. But, after researching several you tube videos on this task, I happened upon yours and decided that we could do it and save them a ton of money. I found your video to be the most complete, comprehensive and easy-to-follow. We did this job in about 4 hours, taking our time, feeling as though we'd done this before and with confidence thanks to you. Every step went without a hitch and done on the first attempt. Those lock-rings are a bear to get off and on! The special lock-ring tool was a necessity for us, and validated the $22 spent for it. The only thing I did other than what you showed was instead of using the carpet access holes, I pulled up the carpet from the seam behind the back seats and out of the plastic panels and just propped it up against the backs of the front seats after moving them as far forward as possible. No gas got on the carpet and easy to clean up any mess, although we didn't have much of a mess to clean. Carpet went back in place easy enough with a little tucking on the edges. Job done and the fuel gauge is working once again; and, a big part of that is your you tube contribution. Again, thanks for the very big help!
Ready to do this job on my 2009 Santa Fe, going smooth until I reached the part to remove the evap system connector. Ran back to the PC and watched video again and again. My 2009 does not have the 2 Blue Buttons you refer to, to remove connector. In my case there was a blue clip on top which popped off easy, then had to depress white button on bottom and that spread out the white clip legs holding on the connector. Maybe because mine was a 2009 and it seems all the videos refer to 2007-2009. There seems to be some slight differences. After scratching my head a bit, finally figured it out, as I have not seen this type of connector before, connector removed, job completed. Fuel gauge now working properly. Thanks for the great video.
Out of all the videos I watched, this was the most complete and showed EVERY step needed! Otherwise, this would have cost a lot of money. Thank you so much!!!
To follow up on this, the video was fantastic, but I would add that I was able to pull the carpet back on my 2007 Santa Fe to reveal the bare floor underneath. This made everything wide open to work with both sides. The carpet was divided between front and back, just past the fuel tank covers, and held together by Velcro. My 9 year old son was my second man, removing the seat bolts (he learned a lot about leverage with adding a small pipe to the end of the ratchet arm!), and the added umphhh trying to remove the lock ring holding the fuel sending units down! That was the hardest! I would include a picture with the carpet pulled back, but I don’t see how I can add that. One last note, I did see several seed pods half eaten around that ring, under the black plates, so critters can get in there. When I was replacing the o-rings, I had to use the shop-vac with small hose to suck all the debris that fell in the o-ring slot. I was surprised that mice could get to that space, but they did! I was really nervous working on an open fuel tank, but this video got me through with such fine detail of the step by step!!! Thank you Jim!
This was an amazing video! I was very nervous about opening up the gas tank. But you explained every step completely in easy to understand terms. I completed the job and now the fuel gauge works. Thank you very much!
Thanks Jim ! Blue Plastic clip: Fuel connector has a blue plastic clip: Amazon Prime Wrench fit: RockAuto Parts. My 2009 driver side, Fuel connector has an upside-down U-shaped Blue plastic clip, a little different from what your shows. The black plastic of the fuel connector, has a small channel at the top, which looks like you should insert a small screwdriver, to pry it up. So I did that, but you also need to very gently pry both of the blue taps Out a bit ( the blue tabs stick out both sides). By gently prying the two tabs outwards, while also lifting on the small screwdriver slot at the top, allowed the clip to release and move upwards. Then use a hook, underneath, to push up, and release the connector, like the other connectors. Some other connectors are right side up, so you can see where you need to push, some are on the bottom. Only the fuel connector had the extra blue clip, in addition to the regular release. So first remove the blue tab, then push up from below, to release the fuel line. I saw another different video, where there two guys laughing and showing off their broken clip. They didn't care. so you don't need to watch that video LOL. Jim's "Step by Step" detail was priceless. Also, I had difficulty removing and then re-installing the large fuel pump ring. Jim mentions a breaker bar, and I thought he was just kidding, but he wasn't. My 1.5" socket wrench was not nearly enough torque. Thought for sure I was going to snap of something. Jim mentions adding some grease, and although I didn't, I do highly recommend that you add some lubricant. I bought the same wrench from Amazon, overnight. This spanner wrench is very heavy duty, and you will see why. When I received it, I found that it didn't fit onto the pump ring, and I thought I was going to have to stop. But I had a medium sledge hammer, and "gently" hit it a few times against the concrete, and it had bent to the proper dimensions, and then fit. So if you do this, you don't have to hit it very hard at all with a sledge. I ordered both sensors from RockAuto Parts, One of the items shows it includes two sensors, and two O-rings. I didn't expect that they would be different as Jim showed, one with a bend in it ( fuel Pump side), but i did receive both different units, and they fit, and worked properly. Check Engine light is OUT, after just one drive. !
I read some other comments, and yes, I did have to gently wack on the ring wrench, even with full torque to the 2.5' breaker bar, until it "bang", released it's grip. It's really on there. and a real pain to put back on, so do add some grease, maybe also get someone to help you with it. It's a bear, off and on.
BTW, I checked the old parts on Curve Trace, and found that the sensor with the straight float rod, was intermittently "open". I think that is the passenger non pump side, but not sure. The original symptom was what you show, where the fuel level is sometimes zero, but intermittently shows the fuel level. We changed both sensors, and I found that the one with the bent float, worked properly, but the straight one, was glitches open quite often, as the float is moved. Worse when reading full. The float rod shaft is loose, on both old units, which doesn't seem very reliable. Seems gravity helps to hold the contact to the resistive sensor.
Thanks to your video, I happened to do the job and it was much easier than I thought. Removing the rusted retainer rings was a pain in the butt but using the tool, a breaker bar and tapping hard on the side of the tool actually made it easier. The rest is pretty easy to do. Now my gauge works again, no check engine light for that problem. Also followed your procedure to remove gas line pressure there was almost no fuel spilled anywhere. Found out one of the sender unit connecter was very dirty so probably had not enough current going through. The place where the unit makes contact to give fuel level seemed ok on both but why bother trying to fix them when you already have the replacements parts. Now my fuel gauge works and the trip meter can read how much range there’s left in the tank. To easily get the passenger side unit out of the tank after removing the ring turn the whole thing 180 degrees. The hole is off center relative to the assembly it makes it easier to remove after it turned.
Getting ready to tackle this today. This is hands-down the best video on how to do it every step of the way. The way you explain everything so clearly gives me the confidence to give it a go. So glad I found this! I was going to take your advice and get the OEM part, but they are5 times the price of Dorman, plus the gaskets so I’m going to roll the dice.
@@jimthecarguy It went great! Mine has the 3rd row seating which actually makes it easier to access the bolts to remove the middle row seats. Took me a bit longer to do the job because I have no wi-fi in my garage and kept going back inside to watch the next step or confirm how something comes off. I was glad you showed the lock ring coming loose - didn't scare me so much when mine suddenly gave way! I also don't think I would have ever figured out how to disengage the part on the passenger side where you use the pick from below to open the clips. The only reason I was even tackling this was because the check engine light will fail my state's emissions test - otherwise I don't care that the fuel gauge was incorrect. When I turned the car on the gauge worked, I had a buddy with a scanner clear the CE light and it has stayed off so far with no other error codes. Will take it for the test later this week, as when I tried right after the test said it was too soon. The Dorman parts, including gaskets were $63 with a limited lifetime warranty and I got the lock ring tool for less than 30 on eBay. Hyundai wanted 197.50 per sender, plus another 17 per gasket. Plus, I figured since this seems to be a common problem with Hyundais then the OEM part can't be so great. This 07 only has 79k miles on it.
Oh boy this is gonna be fun. 😂😂😂 Great video though and really appreciate the help. You would think being a mechanic in the Army for 10 years would help me with this but nope. Working on military equipment and working on civilian vehicles is night and day difference. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Not sure, I'm getting power, I don't hear the fuel pump priming, but fuel gauge moves up to 1/4 tank. I get a crank no start with no codes?? I'm at a loss here. I may just replace the fuel pump and see. Update: 5 hours later.. it was the fuel pump behind the drivers seat. When I removed the pump, it broke apart in my hand,lol. This saved me $$$ big time. Thanks for the help sir.
Great video. To your point on aftermarket…the quote I got from Hyundai parts was $200 each! So they are over 8x the aftermarket price. For that amount of ripoff, I’m going to take my chances on these particular parts…read reviews first to see if others’ say they worked properly.
My wife's 2007 Hyundai Azera LE fuel tank is not reading correctly, we have surmised it is the level sensor in the fuel tank. The fuel pump works fine, is it replaceable just like the Hyundai Sante Fe Fuel sensor is? I've taken the fuel pump assembly out a few times, tried after market fuel pump assemblies (none fit properly) but the wear seems very much the same as you indicated in the video.
Thanks for the video. I have replaced the floats in my 2007 Santa Fe and the gas gauge works perfectly. I have since got a new error code. P0455. There is a strong smell of gasoline in the care when I fill up. I am guessing that one of the seals may not be tight on the tank. Are there any other things to check before I go back in and check the seal?
Hi Jim, watched the video and then I easily replaced the senders. However, the gauge is still reading zero with a full tank. Is there a way to reset the gauge? Or do I need to replace the gauge? Thanks
So after all your cautions, I went and broke one of the plugs that goes into the fuel pump. The odd shaped one. Is there a plug I can buy to replace it? Or do I have to have the entire wiring harness replaced? Any thought would be much appreciated.
Great information Jim. I am having this problem with my H-Santa Fe (Code P0464), I would like to buy both fuel pump online, I will appreciate any place you may suggest, Thks
I completed this process and found a vapor smell in cabin. I believe it’s the sending unit sensor gaskets that are too thin. Bought Hyundai gaskets and where much thicker! Hope this helps. Don’t use the sensor gaskets!
Question, is this the same issue with 2.2 diesel variant? mine has problem when it is below 1/4 fuel level, it stalls, problem is avoided as long as I fill the tank atleast more than 1/4 tank
I'll be tackling this job tomorrow, one question tho I was told If you can reach the back bolts on the seats you wouldn't necessarily have to disassemble the whole storage area, do think this would be a feasible approach? Watching you makes it look pretty easy tho. Getting the rings off and on a plastic tank makes me nervous I gotta say.
Those storage areas are held by six screws total. Takes 2 minutes to remove them and makes it much easier when it’s time to reassemble the seats you won’t need to use a long ratchet extension, make sure easier to put the bolts back in place. Also makes it a good time to clean up that carpet underneath because. It does accumulate dust even though there is storage on top of them.
Hey for those of you about to attempt to do this on your own. Usually rule of thumb is Empty the gas tanks In case you need to use the hammer on the lock ring striking metal to metal there’s always the possibility of a tiny spark enough to ignite the possible vapor Be More alert …. For those mech. & elect. Inclined Just a Reminder 🙂
Parts are $320 bucks unfortunately i know to buy the hyandai part but found a Chinese sensor which is 18 bucks so going with that since I can't afford the brand parts hopefully will work fine
Great vid, Jim. Fixed the issue with your help. However, I subsequently got codes P0451 and P0452. I thought I make sure all connections were solid. Is it possible that I did not make a good connection on something or is it likely something else went wrong? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated as I know nothing about EVAP systems.
Got same p0452 after doing it, I suspect I forgot to clean the groove underside the new retainer gasket. There might be some dirt underneath that created that very small leak (that’s what the 0452 is)
@@prevhatchett4457 if you ever do figure it out let me know. I check all the wires for a short and nothing. Someone told could be whole sending unit or a fuse. But I got tired buying parts and nothing. Also got frustratingly.. good luck
Overheat, No, This repair is for the two fuel level sensors. There are two fuel level sensors, one attached to the fuel pump as expected, and a second tank lid, that looks like another fuel pump, but not much in there, other than the second sensor. I think one is for the fuel gauge on your dash(drivers side, fuel pump), and the second one to set the driving range remaining. The computer reads both sensors, and they should agree. If they don't, then it knows one of the sensors is bad, and sets check engine codes. Jim mentions the specific codes, during the introduction of his video. These sensors, only tell the computer about the fuel level, using a float, and cant cause your car to overheat.
Please can someone tell me how you get fuel into the second tank behind the passenger seat. I am not receiving fuel into this tank. I am only receiving fuel into the first tank behind the driver’s seat.
I would add silicone and seal the plate interior cap , sometimes you can get fumes inside when filling the car tank with gas. I happen to me, make it air tight!
I would add silicone and seal the plate interior cap , sometimes you can get fumes inside when filling the car tank with gas. I happen to me, make it air tight!
@@jimthecarguy Not quite, Jim. No hatred here, but give your video a listen and count the number of times you repeated the two phrases I identified. Your video was helpful though repetitive, that’s all. I intended my comment as helpful critique. P.S. I just did the job in 90 min. and discovered the float wipers had simply lost their tension against their contacts on the sender body. I scuffed them with #600 sandpaper, bent them a bit so they contact firmer and it works flawlessly. 👍
3 minutes in, and I can tell ya that poor vehicle will be a rust bucket in a few short years... I have a HUGE pet peeve with people not cleaning the VEGETATION out of their vehicle"s "hidden pockets". They don't realize that it migrates into other body cavities, where it COLLECTS and ROTS. Fastest way to rot out a car... Salty Veggies! (NOT parking near, or under trees, will prolong the vehicle life)
Haha darn, I had to wing this repair about two years ago. I am glad that future people will have such a great video to work with! Thanks again Jim!
Fantastic video! My father and I tackled this on my 2007 Santa Fe this morning and this video was referred to often. Did the full job in under 2 hours. Thank Jim!
I was reluctant to tackle this job but after watching him a few times I went for it. Turned out great. What a teacher. This guy is good. Thanks
This guy is awesome explaining how to do the job I feel a lot more confident to tackle it now
Just completed this job today, here are some tips. I have a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3 Limited. I followed the video exactly, and the first difference I noted was on the drivers side fuel pump assembly my fuel evap connector didn't look anything like the one in this video. Mine has a blue pronged clip that you gently pull up and remove, and then there is a white connector that has to be removed at the bottom. Gently separate the legs of the white clip that are facing up, and then pull the clip down. It helps to gently rotate the line while doing so, and be patient as it is very fiddly.
My second tip for you is to use a breaker bar with a pipe or some other type of extension to provide even more leverage when installing the lock ring. I managed to get the lock rings free with just the breaker bar, but even after applying a small amount of lithium grease on the contact areas I could not fully reinstall the lock rings without sliding a pipe over the breaker bar to give me extra leverage. Otherwise the job was straight forward and not terribly difficult.
I just replaced sensors on my 2009 Sante Fe. My check engine light is still ON and the fuel tank now shows 2/3 full as compared it showing Empty all the time.
@@shyambpatil19 Did you use OEM parts?
@@captainsergeantI brought it off amazon
Scary hope you didn't fit up the seats after checking😊
Jim--just wanted to express my thanks to you for your video. My son and I just completed changing out the fuel level sensors on his wife's Santa Fe. I was a little apprehensive about opening up the fuel tank to do this job. I even unplugged the garage door opener before we began. But, after researching several you tube videos on this task, I happened upon yours and decided that we could do it and save them a ton of money. I found your video to be the most complete, comprehensive and easy-to-follow. We did this job in about 4 hours, taking our time, feeling as though we'd done this before and with confidence thanks to you. Every step went without a hitch and done on the first attempt. Those lock-rings are a bear to get off and on! The special lock-ring tool was a necessity for us, and validated the $22 spent for it. The only thing I did other than what you showed was instead of using the carpet access holes, I pulled up the carpet from the seam behind the back seats and out of the plastic panels and just propped it up against the backs of the front seats after moving them as far forward as possible. No gas got on the carpet and easy to clean up any mess, although we didn't have much of a mess to clean. Carpet went back in place easy enough with a little tucking on the edges. Job done and the fuel gauge is working once again; and, a big part of that is your you tube contribution. Again, thanks for the very big help!
Ready to do this job on my 2009 Santa Fe, going smooth until I reached the part to remove the evap system connector. Ran back to the PC and watched video again and again. My 2009 does not have the 2 Blue Buttons you refer to, to remove connector. In my case there was a blue clip on top which popped off easy, then had to depress white button on bottom and that spread out the white clip legs holding on the connector. Maybe because mine was a 2009 and it seems all the videos refer to 2007-2009. There seems to be some slight differences. After scratching my head a bit, finally figured it out, as I have not seen this type of connector before, connector removed, job completed. Fuel gauge now working properly. Thanks for the great video.
Hi Jim, Thanks for this video! Just replaced the sensors in my wife's 2009 Santa Fe. Everything went exactly as you demonstrated.
Glad it helped
Out of all the videos I watched, this was the most complete and showed EVERY step needed! Otherwise, this would have cost a lot of money. Thank you so much!!!
I'm happy to help.
Thank youBayview auto repair!
Like how you went about removing the pumps.
You are a good mechanic teacher.
Thank you Jim. This made fixing my son's car substantially easier. You do great work.
To follow up on this, the video was fantastic, but I would add that I was able to pull the carpet back on my 2007 Santa Fe to reveal the bare floor underneath. This made everything wide open to work with both sides. The carpet was divided between front and back, just past the fuel tank covers, and held together by Velcro. My 9 year old son was my second man, removing the seat bolts (he learned a lot about leverage with adding a small pipe to the end of the ratchet arm!), and the added umphhh trying to remove the lock ring holding the fuel sending units down! That was the hardest! I would include a picture with the carpet pulled back, but I don’t see how I can add that. One last note, I did see several seed pods half eaten around that ring, under the black plates, so critters can get in there. When I was replacing the o-rings, I had to use the shop-vac with small hose to suck all the debris that fell in the o-ring slot. I was surprised that mice could get to that space, but they did! I was really nervous working on an open fuel tank, but this video got me through with such fine detail of the step by step!!! Thank you Jim!
This was an amazing video! I was very nervous about opening up the gas tank. But you explained every step completely in easy to understand terms. I completed the job and now the fuel gauge works. Thank you very much!
Thanks Jim ! Blue Plastic clip: Fuel connector has a blue plastic clip: Amazon Prime Wrench fit: RockAuto Parts.
My 2009 driver side, Fuel connector has an upside-down U-shaped Blue plastic clip, a little different from what your shows.
The black plastic of the fuel connector, has a small channel at the top, which looks like you should insert a small screwdriver, to pry it up.
So I did that, but you also need to very gently pry both of the blue taps Out a bit ( the blue tabs stick out both sides). By gently prying the two tabs outwards, while also lifting on the small screwdriver slot at the top, allowed the clip to release and move upwards. Then use a hook, underneath, to push up, and release the connector, like the other connectors. Some other connectors are right side up, so you can see where you need to push, some are on the bottom. Only the fuel connector had the extra blue clip, in addition to the regular release. So first remove the blue tab, then push up from below, to release the fuel line.
I saw another different video, where there two guys laughing and showing off their broken clip. They didn't care. so you don't need to watch that video LOL.
Jim's "Step by Step" detail was priceless.
Also, I had difficulty removing and then re-installing the large fuel pump ring. Jim mentions a breaker bar, and I thought he was just kidding, but he wasn't. My 1.5" socket wrench was not nearly enough torque. Thought for sure I was going to snap of something. Jim mentions adding some grease, and although I didn't, I do highly recommend that you add some lubricant. I bought the same wrench from Amazon, overnight. This spanner wrench is very heavy duty, and you will see why. When I received it, I found that it didn't fit onto the pump ring, and I thought I was going to have to stop. But I had a medium sledge hammer, and "gently" hit it a few times against the concrete, and it had bent to the proper dimensions, and then fit. So if you do this, you don't have to hit it very hard at all with a sledge.
I ordered both sensors from RockAuto Parts, One of the items shows it includes two sensors, and two O-rings. I didn't expect that they would be different as Jim showed, one with a bend in it ( fuel Pump side), but i did receive both different units, and they fit, and worked properly.
Check Engine light is OUT, after just one drive. !
I read some other comments, and yes, I did have to gently wack on the ring wrench, even with full torque to the 2.5' breaker bar, until it "bang", released it's grip.
It's really on there. and a real pain to put back on, so do add some grease, maybe also get someone to help you with it. It's a bear, off and on.
BTW, I checked the old parts on Curve Trace, and found that the sensor with the straight float rod, was intermittently "open". I think that is the passenger non pump side, but not sure. The original symptom was what you show, where the fuel level is sometimes zero, but intermittently shows the fuel level. We changed both sensors, and I found that the one with the bent float, worked properly, but the straight one, was glitches open quite often, as the float is moved. Worse when reading full. The float rod shaft is loose, on both old units, which doesn't seem very reliable. Seems gravity helps to hold the contact to the resistive sensor.
Great step by step instruction as always Jim! and no plastic clips/parts broke in the process!
Thanks to your video, I happened to do the job and it was much easier than I thought. Removing the rusted retainer rings was a pain in the butt but using the tool, a breaker bar and tapping hard on the side of the tool actually made it easier. The rest is pretty easy to do. Now my gauge works again, no check engine light for that problem. Also followed your procedure to remove gas line pressure there was almost no fuel spilled anywhere. Found out one of the sender unit connecter was very dirty so probably had not enough current going through. The place where the unit makes contact to give fuel level seemed ok on both but why bother trying to fix them when you already have the replacements parts. Now my fuel gauge works and the trip meter can read how much range there’s left in the tank. To easily get the passenger side unit out of the tank after removing the ring turn the whole thing 180 degrees. The hole is off center relative to the assembly it makes it easier to remove after it turned.
Getting ready to tackle this today. This is hands-down the best video on how to do it every step of the way. The way you explain everything so clearly gives me the confidence to give it a go. So glad I found this!
I was going to take your advice and get the OEM part, but they are5 times the price of Dorman, plus the gaskets so I’m going to roll the dice.
I understand the factor parts can be over priced for sure. I hoe everything works out. Let me know how you do or if you need any advice.
@@jimthecarguy It went great! Mine has the 3rd row seating which actually makes it easier to access the bolts to remove the middle row seats. Took me a bit longer to do the job because I have no wi-fi in my garage and kept going back inside to watch the next step or confirm how something comes off. I was glad you showed the lock ring coming loose - didn't scare me so much when mine suddenly gave way! I also don't think I would have ever figured out how to disengage the part on the passenger side where you use the pick from below to open the clips.
The only reason I was even tackling this was because the check engine light will fail my state's emissions test - otherwise I don't care that the fuel gauge was incorrect. When I turned the car on the gauge worked, I had a buddy with a scanner clear the CE light and it has stayed off so far with no other error codes. Will take it for the test later this week, as when I tried right after the test said it was too soon.
The Dorman parts, including gaskets were $63 with a limited lifetime warranty and I got the lock ring tool for less than 30 on eBay. Hyundai wanted 197.50 per sender, plus another 17 per gasket. Plus, I figured since this seems to be a common problem with Hyundais then the OEM part can't be so great. This 07 only has 79k miles on it.
Oh boy this is gonna be fun. 😂😂😂 Great video though and really appreciate the help. You would think being a mechanic in the Army for 10 years would help me with this but nope. Working on military equipment and working on civilian vehicles is night and day difference. I'll let you know how it turns out.
You have great patience Jim, you made it look so easy. Brilliant commentary. 👏👏
This would be too complicated for me Jim, I would need a good mechanic like you do it. Thanks, John
I'm so grateful you posed this video. It made the replacement manageable and saved us a lot of money. Thanks again.
Great to hear!
Not sure, I'm getting power, I don't hear the fuel pump priming, but fuel gauge moves up to 1/4 tank. I get a crank no start with no codes?? I'm at a loss here. I may just replace the fuel pump and see.
Update: 5 hours later.. it was the fuel pump behind the drivers seat. When I removed the pump, it broke apart in my hand,lol. This saved me $$$ big time. Thanks for the help sir.
Great video. To your point on aftermarket…the quote I got from Hyundai parts was $200 each! So they are over 8x the aftermarket price. For that amount of ripoff, I’m going to take my chances on these particular parts…read reviews first to see if others’ say they worked properly.
Thank you so much. Your explanation and walk thru makes me feel that I can do this on my Santa fe.
You are so welcome!
This car has been having some issues you had to address recently. Good job.
Thank you for this video I just finished my Santa Fe.
Excellent video from a professional instructor and help me a lot. However, question to be raised do we have to use Sealant for fuel pump "O" Ring.
Thanks for watching. Good question about the o ring . No you don't need sealant but some rubber lube will make the lock ring go on easier.
Wow you are a great Job . Thanks for share . My 2007 Hyuandi Santa Fe is problem fuel cauge not works . I will go at dealership fix it .
Great video. Best one on web for this difficult job. Thanks👍
Jim - you always make it look so easy, almost like I could do it if I had to. Great job as always.
Thank you very much Sir. really appreciate your detailed instructions, helped me finish the repair within an hour.
My wife's 2007 Hyundai Azera LE fuel tank is not reading correctly, we have surmised it is the level sensor in the fuel tank. The fuel pump works fine, is it replaceable just like the Hyundai Sante Fe Fuel sensor is? I've taken the fuel pump assembly out a few times, tried after market fuel pump assemblies (none fit properly) but the wear seems very much the same as you indicated in the video.
Your a life saver and made it easy for me. Thanks
Thanks for the video. I have replaced the floats in my 2007 Santa Fe and the gas gauge works perfectly. I have since got a new error code. P0455. There is a strong smell of gasoline in the care when I fill up. I am guessing that one of the seals may not be tight on the tank. Are there any other things to check before I go back in and check the seal?
Great video. Thank you for your time. I'm probably going to be doing this soon.
Hi Jim, watched the video and then I easily replaced the senders. However, the gauge is still reading zero with a full tank. Is there a way to reset the gauge? Or do I need to replace the gauge? Thanks
Great video. You explain the process very well.
Great video, made the job much easier, thank you!
So after all your cautions, I went and broke one of the plugs that goes into the fuel pump. The odd shaped one. Is there a plug I can buy to replace it? Or do I have to have the entire wiring harness replaced? Any thought would be much appreciated.
Thank you Jim the carguy!
Very good teacher i will do it my self in my santa fe, please make more video in this suv.👍
Thank you, I will
Congratulations! Thank you, Jin. Great!
Great information Jim. I am having this problem with my H-Santa Fe (Code P0464), I would like to buy both fuel pump online, I will appreciate any place you may suggest, Thks
I completed this process and found a vapor smell in cabin. I believe it’s the sending unit sensor gaskets that are too thin. Bought Hyundai gaskets and where much thicker! Hope this helps. Don’t use the sensor gaskets!
I'm sure it will work with the factory gaskets. Sometimes aftermarket parts just don't work.
Thanks that square shank brass punch looks like an old friend :0)
Question, is this the same issue with 2.2 diesel variant? mine has problem when it is below 1/4 fuel level, it stalls, problem is avoided as long as I fill the tank atleast more than 1/4 tank
This video helped me out A LOT!! Thanks!
I'll be tackling this job tomorrow, one question tho I was told If you can reach the back bolts on the seats you wouldn't necessarily have to disassemble the whole storage area, do think this would be a feasible approach? Watching you makes it look pretty easy tho. Getting the rings off and on a plastic tank makes me nervous I gotta say.
Those storage areas are held by six screws total. Takes 2 minutes to remove them and makes it much easier when it’s time to reassemble the seats you won’t need to use a long ratchet extension, make sure easier to put the bolts back in place. Also makes it a good time to clean up that carpet underneath because. It does accumulate dust even though there is storage on top of them.
The car that I have consists of 3 rows of seats, is it different?
Hey for those of you about to attempt to do this on your own. Usually rule of thumb is
Empty the gas tanks
In case you need to use the hammer on the lock ring striking metal to metal there’s always the possibility of a tiny spark enough to ignite
the possible vapor Be More alert ….
For those mech. & elect. Inclined Just a Reminder 🙂
I was wondering why didn't you use power tools like other mechanics to unscrew the bolts? That will definitely save a lot of time.
I have that same matco pick. So useful.
It really is!
Would this be similar on a 2016? I know there's a low pressure and a high pressure but I can't seem to find much on that model year
Thanks Jim
👍💪👍💪👍
Awesome video... Learned alot.
Glad to hear it!
@@jimthecarguy Jim, my santa fe 2008, take a while to crank and smell gas.
@@tentico1 Is the Santa Fe leaking fuel anywhere? Is the check engine light on?
@@jimthecarguy no.. Jim. Just takes time to crank, cold or after a while being off.
Thank you Jim Great Video
Glad you enjoyed it
Would this process work the same on a 2002 Santa fe?? Please reply.
AWESOME VIDEO
Good information as always
Jim there’s no video on the location of the map sensor? And no good schematics.
Very informative thanks
Thanks
Why wouldn’t just change out the pump too? Seems it’s so difficult to access a old pump would be a potential fail at some point.
Great vid. Thanks, Jim.
Very useful video
Glad you liked it
HELP… I accidentally broke the blue fuel line retainer clip and can not find a replacement part anywhere. Any suggestions?
Excellent video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Thanks Jim!
Parts are $320 bucks unfortunately i know to buy the hyandai part but found a Chinese sensor which is 18 bucks so going with that since I can't afford the brand parts hopefully will work fine
One fuel pump two fuel level sensing units. The fuel pump is on left/driver side and the assembly on the right is not the fuel pump it seems
Great vid, Jim. Fixed the issue with your help. However, I subsequently got codes P0451 and P0452. I thought I make sure all connections were solid. Is it possible that I did not make a good connection on something or is it likely something else went wrong? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated as I know nothing about EVAP systems.
Got same p0452 after doing it, I suspect I forgot to clean the groove underside the new retainer gasket. There might be some dirt underneath that created that very small leak (that’s what the 0452 is)
For anyone.. I did everything he did and now my car still shows half tank when it full. What should I do
Having the same issue, changed sensors, filled tank up, still reading half tank, u ever figure it out?
@@prevhatchett4457 nope I just drive it as is. It's annoying
@@joshuab9233 appreciate the reply! Yeah I open the tanks back up, didn't see any issues and still only getting half tank read with a full tank, smh
@@prevhatchett4457 if you ever do figure it out let me know. I check all the wires for a short and nothing. Someone told could be whole sending unit or a fuse. But I got tired buying parts and nothing. Also got frustratingly.. good luck
Cool, will do!
Does this issue also make ur car overheat?
Overheat, No, This repair is for the two fuel level sensors.
There are two fuel level sensors, one attached to the fuel pump as expected, and a second tank lid, that looks like another fuel pump, but not much in there, other than the second sensor. I think one is for the fuel gauge on your dash(drivers side, fuel pump), and the second one to set the driving range remaining. The computer reads both sensors, and they should agree. If they don't, then it knows one of the sensors is bad, and sets check engine codes.
Jim mentions the specific codes, during the introduction of his video.
These sensors, only tell the computer about the fuel level, using a float, and cant cause your car to overheat.
I need to see how you got the lock ring back on
I can't get it back in for nothing I seen it at the end I meant to say I need better advice
Please can someone tell me how you get fuel into the second tank behind the passenger seat. I am not receiving fuel into this tank. I am only receiving fuel into the first tank behind the driver’s seat.
Special tool won't fit bought the right part but won't stay tight
I long for the days when you could sit on the inner fender and change the fuel pump on a 51 Chevy.
I did replace it but still reading empty 🤦🏽🤦🏽🤦🏽🤦🏽🤦🏽 what else can be
Aftermarket vs OEM. It's the OEM part that keeps going bad on these vehicles.
Why wouldn't you go ahead and replace the pump while you have it down this far...?
I would add silicone and seal the plate interior cap , sometimes you can get fumes inside when filling the car tank with gas. I happen to me, make it air tight!
I would add silicone and seal the plate interior cap , sometimes you can get fumes inside when filling the car tank with gas. I happen to me, make it air tight!
Gas is flammable. Be careful you don’t want to break anything. I got it after the 10th time. Video is good but could be 1/10 as long.
It is obvious to me that you have no idea about what it take for the job to come out perfect without burning you shop or house down.
@@jimthecarguy Not quite, Jim. No hatred here, but give your video a listen and count the number of times you repeated the two phrases I identified. Your video was helpful though repetitive, that’s all. I intended my comment as helpful critique. P.S. I just did the job in 90 min. and discovered the float wipers had simply lost their tension against their contacts on the sender body. I scuffed them with #600 sandpaper, bent them a bit so they contact firmer and it works flawlessly. 👍
3 minutes in, and I can tell ya that poor vehicle will be a rust bucket in a few short years... I have a HUGE pet peeve with people not cleaning the VEGETATION out of their vehicle"s "hidden pockets". They don't realize that it migrates into other body cavities, where it COLLECTS and ROTS. Fastest way to rot out a car... Salty Veggies! (NOT parking near, or under trees, will prolong the vehicle life)