How I saved the transmission in my SRT8 300's!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- This is my automotive vlog on how I was able to save the transmission in my Chysler 300 SRT8.
Thanks for watching.
Transmission Filter Kit
amzn.to/2PoOmQq
Automatic Transmission Conductor Plate Speed Sensor Valve Body Kit for Chrysler Dodge Jeep
amzn.to/2Wk234U
Automatic Transmission Dipstick for Chrysler Jeep Dodge
amzn.to/31GLEZn
❱ Facebook - / jspark-garage
❱ Instagram - / j_spark_garage
Regardless of some rude comments on here this video was helpful. You mentioned it may just be a bandaid and probably so. But atleast the car is running again. For how long, who knows but a $200 fix compared to $2000 dollar fix that you will still only get a 1yr warranty with a reman transmission swap. I say good job and thank you for the video.
No, there should not be any oil on the electrical plug. I am a mercedes benz mechanic (thats how i found your video) and in my opinion, once the wear starts, it doesn't stop. It just keeps accelerating. Enjoy it while it lasts, and be ready to rebuild it when the time comes! These engines make a TON of power, it's no big surprise the transmission takes a beating (it can handle it for the most part) but nothing lasts forever!
I have a 06 chrysler 300c and my tranny is taking around 5 seconds to respond. Where can I get a rebuild kit? I can't find anything my is a awd transmission
@@omar1990seattle to answer your question, the jeep grand cherokee v6 had the same transmission as the awd 300s from 2005-2013. there are three names for the tranny. 722.6 (mercedes), w5a580 (jeep), NAG1 (chrysler/dodge) many chrysler products used the tranny so try those names or makes of vehicles might make your search easier.
@@omar1990seattle Ouch!!! Right in the expensive Tenders! I guess around 4.5-6.5 K? Ouch!
The only channel that has provided a video of transmission fluid and filter change for this vehicle. Thank you so much. I just bought a 06 Chrysler 300 limited. Hard shifting and it feels like it stuff I'm 1st or 2nd gear all the time. Now I can get something done. Much appreciated
What did end up doing on yours? let us know.
Another good tipo.. make sure all the T-30 bolts are loose before preceeding.. who wants to get 5 out and the last 1 stripped out.. not me but i did..
Any 300srt8 vids would definitely be helpful. Love it
Thanks. I have alot more planned.
Mine seems to slip sometimes in reverse. If I'm on a steep hill. It sometimes doesn't go into reverse. The fluid level is fine. I'm thinking of changing the filter and oil. Love your video. Good information.
Good job I've got an 07 Charger RT AWD with Procharger as well. 260000km so far so good,
I had the same thing happen in my SL65. Was told it was due to a converter clutch failure. The fluid looked like it had coffee grounds in it. Changed the filter and fluid and it worked again, but I decided to get a new torque converter anyway.
Great and helpful video. You’re the man! God bless you brother.
This video was a tremendous help… thank you
Good job! In Europe nag1 have drain plug, and it is some easier to change fluid.
I own a 2006 Magnum SRT8, and just installed a Southern Hot Rod Mod6 valve body last month to go along with my 3000 rpm FTI converter and MTCM. When I swapped it over I went ahead and utilized the blue tops that I had in the factory valve body that I’ve been using for several years with no issues. The shifts were crisp and very harsh, downshifts were teeth jarring. Well, one morning on way to work after a couple of weeks of driving, while going over local bridge, it went into limp mode. Set a p2784, p0730 and a p0733. I could reset the TCM adaptive switch my Diablo and go about 1/4 mile, but then it started slipping and would go back into limp mode. I ordered another conductor plate, replaced it, swapped in the factory brown tops, set the fluid perfect again and have net had any issues yet, knock on wood. These transmission are pretty bulletproof, but with that supercharger, you should def get a better valve body for that beast, and I hope you’re running a 1 piece driveshaft as well.
Probably a good idea to let everyone know that the cross member must be removed to get to the 2 back bolts.. just sayin..
Like the way you send that transmission! I won't last as long compared to more careful driving, but well. As long as you have fun.
i have the same car as yours procharged my transmission is fully build for handle 800rhp and its a good advice to use oil cooler like b&m or tru cool because heat kills nag1 @J_Spark Garage
I actually replaced my pan with a Dorman pan with a drain bolt, and would drain my fluid every other oil change until it had all been changed.
When I do my next fluid change I plan on swapping in the dorman pan with the drain plug.
Pretty common. when i had my 05 RT magnum whenever i drove over a certain speed the RPM's would go up and the car would do anything unless i put the car in neutral. took it to the dealership and they wanted 1500 to fix. lucky me i had the warranty at the time and it paid for itself.
Yo I have a magnum and it this happen to me. I had to rebuild the transmission
Hmm you had it serviced 20K ago but how many miles does it have? All that metal in the pan looks like you have been having fun haha
You can get a larger capacity transmission pan with cooling fins on it as well to keep the fluid cooler, maybe also go with a full synthetic transmission oil as well. Also that 13 pin plug on the transmission should not be wet and the fluid can creep up the tcm wires and fry the TCU. Good luck !
Ey. Luke. So. I have. Charger rt. And. After. Drive. Like. 20 min. (When gets hot. I guess) Start having shifting problems. So. I buy. Dip stick. To see if fluid is ok. But no sure. Which trans have NAG1 OR 42RLE . If u have any idea I will appreciate what could be. The. Problem ty in advance
@@fercortez6234 you didn't say what year. If it's a 5spd, yes it's a nag1, or Dodge may call it a W5a-580.
They have a transmission cooler built in even in the R/T variety, id be surprised if they dont have one on the SRT. I cant imagine you'd need fins on the pan, though I guess it couldn't hurt. I never really have any temperature issues with mine anyhow, she always reads pretty solid when I check the logs to adjust the VE tables, havent had to change much in the trans settings except for adjusting the shift points a touch..
no need for extra cooler.. the mechanical engineers designed it that way with heat exchanger cooling, the temperature of the oil needs to reach as designed temperature to lubricate and perform the fluid mechanics thing.
Great info 👍 How’s she holding since you made the video?
Thanks for this video! Changing my transmission oil now referring to this video.
Great vid ,,, make sure u get oem filter n future also try to use ULTRALUBE PLATINUM ATF addetive for the tc it is soupose to keep it run cooler nd keep the ATF much more stable so it wont desinagrade ! I Q of it is enuff to add , also DO NOT OVERFILL TC! convertor holds 4 litres nd casing nd lines about 2 , so after u drop ur pan ir drain fluid, yoy should count the 4 nd 2 litres that are still in the convertor nd tc lines nd casing !! Usualy 2q will be enuff to refill at just TC pan drain nd filter , the TC temps on a hot 90 degree weather should read 175-190 . Now if u use a 185 term nd a cold tune from diablo , u can then set ur fans to start LS at 185 nd HS 210 medium speed fan at 195 AC ON or OFF .. this will keep ur engine cool nd also keep ur TC cool as well.
I have a clk 55 AMG that shares the same transmission, I replaced my filter and fluid at 80k miles looked just a little less dirty than yours. I would definitely suggest changing at least the fluid again after a few thousand miles to help get the rest of that gunk out ! Sweet car love the supercharger
Remember the torque converter holds a couple quarts of fluid as well. Definitely don’t want that burnt nasty stuff lingering in there
Hey Great Video! Were you hearing a Whinny noise prior this repair?
They should have never stopped manufacturing the 300 SRT variants.
Very helpful video my 09 challenger had the same issues, change filter and fluid, haven’t had any more transmission issues yet,,, Knock on wood…
would like to know what year is this 300? Also which transmission is it? I have a 2006. Also what were your lift points with the hydraulic jack?
It's a 2007. I'd need to look but I believe there are some triangles on the frame rail. That's where I lift it.
Is there an update on this trans? How is it holding up?
How is it doing now?
Love this video , lots of great info , we are far from a 904 or a 727 . Thanks for gear info , RoadBoss2
I'm seeing this after two years from post , how long did it last ?
Still going strong. Drove it about 130 miles round trip today.
Do you have your shift pressure maxxed out with the tranzformer? If not, that may help it live longer with less clutch slip.
Yeahhhhhh pump it. Haha jacking it. Awsome info thank you. Im getting one of them dipsticks. 👍
I got a 05 chrysler 300c 5.7 169k miles. Got it in April and had tranny oil checked, its full but black. I get mixed advice, change oil and filter only. Or don't do anything at all just keep driving till transmission gives out.
Lol had many transmissions done in my life. That one is a myth. Change the fluid right away.
What is that orange pump for ? Vacuuming the gearbox oil out from the dip tube ? There is no other way to do it ?
And where do you place your jack to lift the car from the middle ???
Exactly, I want to learn that jack position
mind did same thing i just clean pan change filter and gasket and new fluid and start working good with out the conductor plate
Yo I got a 2009 chrysler 300c and I don't plan on doing a flush right now just changing it it's a 5.7 hemi I'm about to get 6 quarts of tranny fluid but was wondering what would be a proper amount
Hello.... thank you for the useful video, but I got a question, I replaced my car Transmission Conductor Plate NAG1 for 2007 Chrysler 300C 5.7l AWD, it works then not shifting, they told me your Transmission need programming to work correct, someone else told me it doesn't need programming, so I got confused does it need Programming as you a professional???
Cuz am afraid to pay money for programming then if it doesn't work then you waste the money for nothing.
Thank you
How's it holding up for you? Did you do the transmission services before this video? Because from looks of it I'd say someone charged you for something that didn't get done. Like possibly the stealership lol.
Excelente video, gracias
Were did you find the kit or the part to fix it , I'm having a similar problem on my chrysler 300c, with the different that mine it shift to 1st gear and it doesn't go from there.. speedometer doesn't move at all, it shift to first but it won't move to 2nd or 3rd gear nore my standard transmission works
Dropping the valve body and change conductor plate is it a easy job? Thanks
About 2 months ago, I was driving my Chrysler 300c down the freeway and the damn Yoke got detached. Scared the living shit out of me. Thought my transmission was done with, but my car mechanic simply screwed it back on and I was good to go.
In your opinion, how much longer do you have with a NAG1 transmission at 140,000 miles?
Did it give you any warnings, any unusual sounds before the yoke came loose?
@@budlanctot3060 yes, warning light (and the transmission stopped running). But a transmission shop screwed the yoke back together and it runs fine now. I was just wondering how long these NAG1 transmissions typically last.
He was so pissed 🤣
I'm pretty sure either southern hotrods or hhp make an upgraded valve body for the nag1
What are the torque specs for the conductor plate and valve body, or where can I find them?
Hey I have a srt8 charger And I’m about to service my transmission. But I have one question did it only take 4 quarts of transmission fluid or did you need more after the 4
Hey man, mines doing the same thing. So glad i found your video. How's it holding up 2 years later?
Still on the same transmission. I haven't had a single problem. I'll be changing the fluid soon and post another video.
Good video my friend!
Unfortunately, I think my 06 SRT8 Magnum trans is going. The shifts are getting longer and longer and then its a really hard shift. 183k and all original, probably time to be replaced.
You car was in limp mode I just fixed my issue months ago with a filter replacement
Have you had any more problems, if you don't mind me asking
Thank you dude
Cool video nice ride
What's the status of the transmission? Mine has the same symptoms.... was it a bandaid?
Still going. I've only had 1 incident where it went into limp mode but I think it was because I did a hard 1->2 shift and it didn't like it. I'm going to start posting more videos soon and it'll include a follow up with transmission fluid and filter change. Thanks for watching
@@thewrenchinglounge awesome, send it!! Thanks for the response. I guess I'm going to change the conductor plate.
I had a 300 3.5 and did take care of it, never had a problem...now my 5.7 a different thing, only 65k miles and same transmission problem. Don't hot rod it, or race it. Perhaps that's the problem not driving like I'm a teen. Meanwhile, the transmission is not moving this monster. 😂
Ever tried Lucas Stop Slip
Maybe shifting hard because you only added 4 transmission fluids .. video was a lot of help thanks
I was wondering about that part too. . I have the 5.7 isn’t it supposed to be 6 quarts ?
you said you did this 40,000 ago, so was it as bad as this one or did you not see it while it was being worked on . or maybe they ripped you off
4:25 how did you manage to show the transmission temperature on cluster ???
How much was for everything including oil , filter and the other part you changed my Cherokee wants to do the same thing. It will help a lot.
I don't remember the exact cost. Rough estimate was about $200-250.
How many miles does you're car have sir
Hey there, if you feel like a clunk clunk clunk right before the car shifts, could that mean that it's a bad trans? I replaced the coupler before the driveshaft on both the trans and diff side, and replaced the center bearing in the driveshaft
Did you ever get an answer? I'm having that clunk.
I turned the car in I got sick of it
@@srt8soldier478 unfortunately I turned my car in. It was either driveshaft or trans related. I wasn't paying for either
So my. 06. Charger rt. Start having problems when. Is hot. In the morning. Works perfect No sure if. Need to replace . All u do. Or just add more oil Mechanic told. If he changes the oil. The trans might not work anymore. So. He said is a risk. So he told me. To drive it till. Fuck up and get another trans !! . My car have already 2220000. Please let me know if you have any idea what could be. Ty
I have a check engine code for the valve body but also the second gear solenoid, any help on what to do about the second gear solenoid?
Takes for this video I just dome mine today and fixed it.
Was your transmission not working also?
J how long did it last?
Hello, I have a 2009 jeep grand cherokee srt8. I got to a stop on a stop sign and the truck did not move after that. It won't go forward or reverse. Is this the same thing you had?
Did you find out what the problem was ?
Having same issue any updates
Was your torque converter making a squiky noise?
Did this fix the problem? And still good or did you have to do more later on?
I don't think this "fixed" the problem. I think it helped get the car back up and running. With that said, I haven't touched the transmission since. It's still driving great and burning rubber.
If one of your ABS wheel sensor goes bad, it will fry your Trans. Also, having a different size tire or uneven tread wear will fry your Transmission on these 300s. Esp. The 2009 I believe. There are a couple other things like Mass airflow sensor will kill this Transmission extremely fast. They are built to fail by 70,000 miles. Making the Dealer mega rich.
I'm going to have to disagree with Every one of your statements. ABS has no effect on the trans. It's designed to function on its own and provide better braking and traction control by pulsing the brakes. Nothing to do with the transmission.
Different tire sizes will cook the diff but on in 2007 it's an open diff and won't have alot of effect on that.
And finally, these cars don't have mass airflow sensors. They run on a MAP sensor and again that has no affect on the transmission. It'll make your engine run like crap.
@@thewrenchinglounge Then you have no knowledge on the new technology they are starting to put in all cars, today. New tech, my friend... It's getting hard to keep up, Yeah.
The abs does in fact have a lot to do with the nag1 transmission. I had a sensor go bad and it put my transmission into limp mod!
How many miles on that thing ? FCA does NOT recommend service of the Nag1 . How long ya had boost on it ?
Most manufacturers say the tranny fluid is lifetime fluid. This is a lie that tell everybody. You always have to change the filter and flush the fluid at certain intervals. I do 50k cause I'm a mechanic and don't wait every 100k lol
Suppose to check in drive or reverse. You can replace the pan with the Mercedes one that has a drainer...MB Part 1402700812. There maybe a problem changing the oil due to the black sludge which keeps the tranny going. Adding new oil will clean and cause the particles to be replaced resulting in more issues. Replacing expensive parts without proper dignosing is not good. Conductor plates dont cause shavings! So if the only metal shavings you see have no sharpness, no edges, and it looks smooth when rubbing with your two fingers, you don’t need to worry, they are harmless. It is normal to wear.
Brass shavings: if you see brass-like shavings in the crankcase, it indicates one bushings or thrust washers are bad. These components are manufactured with brass, and they typically wear off as you cover hundreds of miles.
Metal Shavings: Metal-like shavings indicate worn gear set teeth. Clean off these casting flakes on the transmission pan upon inspection.
Black pieces: Black particles or dust indicate band or clutch frictional wear.
greetings from germany
Any update? I’m having the same issue.
I changed mines but now its stucknin recerse no matter what gear. Any reason to why this is happening
Did you service it yourself 20k miles ago. Or did you take it somewhere. It looks like they didn't do a damm thing to it and just told you they did. I just changed my fluid for the first time at about 120k and it wasn't even half this dirty. I find it very wierd.
Can a srt8 transmission go whit a 5.7 ?? I bought one and the guy just gave me a computer he said I had to change that and the gears will shift faster
It's all the same transmission. Nag1. The TCMs are tuned alittle differently but should still work.
Hey..did u get a check engine or anything..mine did same thing but the slap shift won't light up what gear it's in the dash
Yes I did, but I don't remember what the codes were. I do remember the gear numbers being crazy on the dash. It's hard to take it all in when you're on the road with 0 power.
Love youre vid keep it up
I have an 07 Charger SRT8 that was having the same issues, has replacing the conductor plate, and filter kept your car going since the repair??
The exact same here
So you replaced the conductor plate
Good job buddy
I just want to know how many miles on this transmission I too have a Mercedes Transmission in my 05 Chrysler 300C
Sound like you have a racer mine have not been abused since 2011. Which is when my purchase at 90,000 miles. I have over 170,000 miles on mine and the transmission fluid has been changed a little over 120,000 I can't remember the miles. I'm just wondering do I need to have it done again now.🤔
what are you adding to the pcm and how ?
Hey brother are you in ft lauderdale by chance
What Did you to work everything down to?
Is this vin number oriented? And did you reuse the old solenoids?
The nag1 transmission is pretty standard. I just found the part based on my car and not the Vin. You swap it out and move over all the old solenoids.
i change fluid every 3 years (20000km)but i rotate fluid every 3-4 months: bought 10 litres and put in 3-4 litres, after 3 months , sucked out 3-4 litres and put it on stillness, again new fluid and after 3 months again change and sucked fluid put on stillness , and i used rest of new fluid and added fluid that was in stillness for 3 months-on bottom of glass bottle can be seen metal dust. yesterday i changet it for 3. time after 1 year from first new fluid rotation and on magnets were dirts but not as on yours, i change gears manually, and then i do not push gas pedal
I’m interested in your shop fan mod lol
I have a Chrysler 300 that the transmission fluid dont get hot anyone know what the cause could be
Is your transmission still working
Believe it or not the transmission is still going strong. No issues. I'm going to be doing a fluid change soon.
I’m bouta do that to my srt8 300
Youre 100% correct that its a bandaid. You found metal in rhe pan and did nothing to address why the metal was there in the first place.
What you saw was clutch material. But you already know that. Im happy its working for now. But, you'll be rebuilding it sooner than later. Again, im sure you know that. Enjoy it while it works!! Cheers 🍻
How many quarts of oil did it actually take????
I believe I ended up using alittle less than 4 quarts.
Pro charger stock transmission you do the math 😂
Model 5 speeds or 8 one ???
Did I see that you removed a Cross member ?
He did. That is why he had the jack supporting the transmission. The cross member gets in the way of removing 2 bolts.
Ah , so the cross member is for support not structural , and other then supporting the gear box safe to remove ...
NO MUSIC!!!!!
Where did you get the conductor plate
Amazon. Link is in the description.
@@thewrenchinglounge i did it to my 07 charger it's running nice know only had two quarts of oil in the transmission and i took it to the dealer for check ups 😡 but i got it right thanks for the video man
Cool video.
J_. Would you do a Centrifugal again or would you do a Screw Style Blower. I have been looking hard at the whipple and would be interested in your thoughts. I want to grind the clutch plates tooo. lol.
That's a tough question because there's alot to think about. My main goals were a fun street car, and I was gearing more toward 1/2 mile racing. Higher speeds, more racing, and less breaking parts. I have a bad habit of breaking things launching the car at the 1/4 mile drag strip. To me personally the 6.1 had plenty lowend tire roasting torque. A whipple would amplify that and just help me destroy tires faster. The procharger comes in more linear and higher up the power band. Pulls like a freight train to redline. So the question for you is......
How do you want your power to come in? What do you want to do with the car?
@@thewrenchinglounge all good points J. Thanks. I think I am leaving mine alone for now. With what you said I would have to agree with the procharger route.
A pro charger is the way to go with these hemis
Depends on how heavy your foot is lol 😆