As a young starter smith who just put together a set up similar to this I love these kind of videos because they show me just how much is still possible
Ha I did that as well. I just finished building a good stand for the anvil. Actually that's the first thing I needed the anvil for. Made some metal bands and turned the screwheads square. Made my first S hook on it yesterday. I really enjoy the experience :) wish you guys a lot of fun as well. I think it's awesome that we can pick up this beautiful craft.
I really appreciate it when you do projects in this little shop but this one in particular I was impressed with your ability to forge such a robust piece. Right in the first beats I thought you were going to give up and take it to the power hammer... 😮... But you persisted and went until the end! Congratulations and thank you very much for this true forge class! Cheers!
I have got to say, I really like the new „stripped back beginners“ shop of yours. Not as cluttered, using the bare essentials, making your own tools to slowly expand the shop. Love it!
I'm way late on this, but I've had expensive grinders working in the oilfield for years. I'm budgeting the hell out of mine and can save you the test. The cheap ones do just fine comparatively, you can't lean into them as hard as the stronger motors without slowing down notably, of course. It's like many other things on a budget, more time but very doable assuming you can physically do the work.
Owning hardly any blacksmithing tools, I fabricated my first Hardy from an old hand axe. The steel is already tough and the blade part already forged to shape. I used a disc grinder with a thin cutting blade to shape the sides as this was quicker than forging. The shoulder stop is a 2" square of 1/2" plate with a square hole in it punched when hot over the end of a pickaxe before being arc welded in place. It's very satisfying to use because it was the very first thing I made.
"Sometimes you just have to put up with what you have to put up with" Wiser words have never been spoken. After three years of beating on a railway track, I finally scraped up the cash to get a nice 80kg anvil, and would you believe it, just after I finished preparing it for use, my forge blower failed. I have had a beautiful anvil for three days now, and I still have no idea how much better it is - the suspense is killing me :)
I made my first hardy tool for the same anvil, and the same tool, a cutoff, but in the most miserable way possible; due to material supply limitations, I upset and shouldered a piece of leaf spring. It fits the hole well, but only sits on the top on two sides. Surprisingly, it actually works pretty well, even if it is ugly!
I appreciate you explaining the available options of steel to use and where we might obtain and reuse steel from other places before you start a project.
I’ve been blacksmithing since the early 70s. I’m very impressed with your hammer control forging the hardy tool. I know power hammers and such are very handy, but I tell beginners to learn hand tool skills because if you can’t forge with hand tools you can’t forge with power tools. Keep up the good work
I may have to do this soon, I had used a piece of sucker rod, squared it off on one end and put what amounts to a rounded chisel head on the other, I find it jams a lot, is crooked, only fits one way etc etc, but it was the first anvil tool I made, seeing this I likely can refine it to be a lot better.
I made a nice little hardie cut-off by simply grinding down the handle of a 3” mason’s brick chisel to fit in the hole. I did it when I was just starting my shop; I was short of tools, materials, and expertise- but the little bugger has been serving me well for going on two years. Anyway, I love your videos, John!
I bought a Harbor Fright $10 angle grinder over 20 years or so ago and it is still going strong. I supplemented with more over the years and each one had a different disk. So with a capital investment of around $130, I have a stable fill of angle grinders. My expensive name-brand 4" died just after the warranty expired. (I did have to change the HF commutator brushes now and then.) My first HF Grinder made an anvil from a 8" piece of work-hardened rail using an orange disc. All in all, I am very happy with them even though the price has gone up. '
That's a big piece of steel to move on a little anvil. Great job. I always pick up good nuggets from your videos. My shop is without power and under construction for the summer so I'm working in the barn. It's really helped me to go back to the basics and I have used the heck out of my battery powered angle grinder. Thanks for the video.
If your hope is that every time I watch a video I want to get out to my shop and make something, you achieve that superbly. Every episode inspires me to get back to creating. Thank you for continuing to motivate makers!
As always I love your channel! If I can plug another channel I love, @ProjectFarm has good reviews of tools in a very scientific (and destructive) manner. I was just watching his reviews of corded angle grinders the other day thinking I might get a new one soon. Definitely recommended for people looking to get the best value for the money.
My cheapo Black and Decker 4.5" grinder was about $25 and has lasted me years. I've put lots of tile dust and and uncomfortable amount of fiberglass duest through it as well.
I got an angle grinder like thirty years ago and it's been one of my favorite tools. Two things aboutan angle grinder, first a trigger instead of a switch on the top, you can still lock it on so you can handle it with out holding it down. Next, my dad saw me use my grinder and went and got one, but it was I think, a 4 1/4 inch, so wouldn't take most wheels. I went and bought him a cheap 4 1/2" (like $10.00-$20.00) and after about 25 years it was working fine, but the switch on the top strarted to get hard to turn on.
As an old fart who is a complete and total noob when it comes to the art of the Smith, I must thank you for your series for the beginners out here... Between you and Christ Centered Iron I have gained enough general knowledge to get my feet wet now... I do 1800+/- frontier re-enacting and there is a lot of Iron-mongery involved... I build powder horns and do a fair bit of leatherwork now I find myself wanting to learn a bit of smithing as well, knives, cooking and camp tools, the list goes on... Now I have the Mr. Volcano single forge and the Vevor Steel 66# anvil on the way for my Christmas present for myself and I already have pretty much everything else tool-wise... Thanks for the inspiration and all the tutorials I look forward to many more...
Awesome video, this new little shop looks like a great opportunity to walk us through how to set up a small BS shop that is bare bones, no electricity. I am loving the potential. I currently forge in my garage. I want to move out of there, but I won't have electricity. It's nice to see that when I do move, I will be just fine.
I bought 4 harbor freight angle grinders at 1 of their parking lot sales for $5 each. They would work for about 6 months of moderate use, then die. I would toss the dead one, then use a new one. I did this for a few years until I broke down and bought a quality angle grinder.
I'm loving the small shop videos! Most of us who dabble in blacksmithing don't have power hammers and fly presses. We have the kind of equipment you're using in the small shop, and it is wonderful to see what can be done solely with basic tools.
thanks John, that is a nice add on for that anvil. I've had issue with getting the bottom half of 30 lb propane tanks too - freezing up and not vaporizing enough propane to maintain pressure.
John, I don’t know about Colorado but our local welding supply store and even Lowe’s sometimes, has a two pack of DeWalt or Bosch angles grinders for $99.00. I have bought both types to take to Cuba on mission trips and they work well. I currently have two DeWalt’s in my own shop and have no complaints. Great video. Darlington, South Carolina
Thank you for this instructional video on forging a hardy tool. I am a learning smith and will have to make all of my handy tools. Would it be possible for you to produce a series on forging different types of hardy tools? Also, my loving and extremely patient wife bought a set of "quick tongs" for me. Perhaps a video on finishing these as well? I realize that you are quite busy, but many of us beginners enjoy your tutorials, and your videos are our only source. So glad that you are here for us.
This is the exact tool I've been wanting to make next, but have been nervous about starting. Plus I've been working so far with whatever scrap steel I can find. Looks like I may need to grab a piece of decent stock and give it a go!
I absolutely love your channel, John. You’re such an inspiration for me. I recently made a hardy tool during my livestream using a jackhammer bit thanks to one of your earlier videos. 😊
The best part about a-33 when using it as a punch or drift you can just dunk it in water when it gets to do. No worry about losing hardness or cracking the tool. Rather a drift or punch needs to be hardened or not is another conversation lol.
I really like the style you did this video. It feels like I'm working in my own shed. On the topic of angle grinders, sometimes it's nice to have a battery-operated one to take to the scrap pile to cut off the piece you need. Then you can bring the piece to your grinding station and use your wall power. I also find that the wall powered grinder helps get through thicker steel when you're cutting it. The battery powered grinder is great for quick cuts. And because it's light it also is great for finessing curves. And thanks John for another great video.
Hello John Thank you for this Video. I like to see you work with basic Tools. It is a good advice for the beginners . Thank you very much I wish you all the best Yours Frank Galetzka
Glad we have a cutoff tool for the little anvil now. Seems like the hacksaw approach was getting old. The magnets seemed to help with the ring of the anvil. That flutagon is like hammering frozen clay if it’s not hot enough, but it’s darn useful for punches and chisels. I bought a little bit after you did a few videos using it, and made my best tools so far. Another excellent video sir.
About grinders, its good to have one for cutoff, one for flap disc, because they are pain to change out when you need them. And corded ones are cheap at yardsales, fleamarkets, online, etc. Just mind if a used one has bearing noise. Cordless are great, stop almost immediately but pricier.
Great video John! I had not considered this tool yet. I’m still setting up my anvil, and needed some materials. I had forgotten about your discount code for blacksmithsupply! How fortuitous!
@@BlackBearForge ordered some Atlantic 33 and that leg vise you suggested. I’ll keep an eye on the handle as you suggested! Thanks again for sharing everything you do.
Craftsman 20v series tools work well in my small shop . 2amp hr batteries don't last long so having the 4amp hr batteries is another investment,but I have several of these tools and it works for me . I have the 132lbs anvil with a hardy a little over 1 inch . I was thinking the flat bar option would be a good way to go and take it to work to weld the cut off on it . Thanks again for another good lesson .
Bought the little Bauer angle grinder from HF to pair with my larger Skil (I’m watt-wise working off grid solar); It seems just as good as the Skil, but doesn’t have a key holder in the handle,,, However, the handle is hollow so I stuffed two strips of plastic foam in there, voila
Thanks John, I’ve been watching you now for a long time .I subbed can I’ve learned lots , have a hard time retaining it all before I get out and try but I still attempt it now and then. Really I just enjoy your person an your abilities,your videos are always great whatever your doing ,very relaxing.
John great job. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come. Can’t wait for more updates an projects and many more videos soon John. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Forge lit. Keep Making. God bless.
Years ago I purchased a very inexpensive angle grinder at Tractor Supply, no brand name that meant anything, and it is still working. I sent it to my son's cabin in Montana for his use and it works but appears that it is having some armature trouble with a couple dead spots.
Just in time! Am about to make a hardy for my Vevor anvil. 4 1/2" angle grinder has been the most-used power tool in my shop for over two decades. After a string of Makitas, have had good luck (three years so far) with the HF Hercules grinder. Whichever brand, would strongly suggest one with a dead man switch. Ask me how I know!
Great and informative video, as usual, I agree that every anvil needs a hardy tool or two and this is a very good video to help people get started making some of their own tools. I've made a few tools of my own for my old anvil, anything to help make it more productive and useful. Thanks again for another great video. John V.
We have a base model 4½in angel grinder at Harbor Freight for $15 right now that will last about 6 months (get the extended warranty for $5 and we'll replace it no questions asked)
I have four of the little 4 1/2" corded angle grinders: One with a cutoff wheel, one with a thick grinding wheel, one with a flap disc, and one kinda back in the bullpen, so to speak. They're all Harbor Freight 9.99 specials. Oldest one is >10 years old and has had the absolute snot beat out of it, and still going. Sure makes it time-saving to go from one application to another. Up one level, thank you John for your videos. I'm learning quite a bit from you!
Another great project, and it's so satisfying to make a tool you'll be using all the time! With regards to the angle grinder, I think this is something I picked up from one of your previous videos, but having a second grinder can be a huge quality of life upgrade once you start using them. I have one with a cutoff wheel, and one with a 60 grit flap disc, and being able to use the cutoff and then quickly dress it with the flap disc without having to change discs is very convenient. Thanks for sharing!
Love the “voice over” method. It makes your explanations much easier to understand. When getting a gas forge, is a two burner worth the extra cost? I hate buying a tool twice because I “cheeped-out” the first time. Thank you again for your time and knowledge.
Have you considered (if you havent made one already) doing a video on types of steel? You could focus on whats best for beginners and whats most common to find, and what kind of scrap is good (like car axle for example)
Very nice series, I love it! Please don't waste your money on a cheap angle grinder. In Germany you get the low end models of Makita or Bosch Professional for about 50,- € and in the US there are sometimes rediculous deals on Milwaukee and DeWalt. Those machines will last a lifetime for a hobbyist. That's money well spend vesus setting your shop on fire with some el-cheapo, you saved 25$ on...
Nice work John, I admire you sticking at doing it by hand on that little anvil, I think I'd have moved to the power hammer after the second heat. ;) We are spoiled for choice though eh? going back into history how many generations of smiths would have loved to be working on an anvil as big as that 'little' anvil?
Ah, how timely, I just bought a Vevor Accaio 50kg (110#) and the hardy hole is 0.8" square and I need to make a cutoff too for it, also. I have an axel I can use, too
Don't know how the economics works. But if you already have a couple of 20# cylinders laying around you could make a manifold to connect 2 or more at once which would increase the surface area to pickup the heat needed to evaporate your propane and keep the pressure up. Like I said if you don't already have the 20# tanks and had to buy new it might be cheaper to just get the 100# cylinder.
Manifolding the 2 - 20 pounders does help but a 100lb cylinder is the better option in most cases. This little forge comes with a regulator set up for the male threads on a 20 pound cylinder and not the typical left hand fuel threads found on 100 pounders
Here's a question for later down the road. If you made a hardy tool that you don't plan on using often, would coat it something? Also if you look online for a place that buys palettes of unsellables from warehouses, you can buy new power tools for dirt cheap. Often the only problem is the packaging. I bought a brand new angle grinder for $4
You dont need to make it form a one peace of steel.I made mine out of old axe that had broken eyelet -i cut down eyelet and then i ground it straight.Then i took a small plate of steel and i welded it to it. You dont even need a shank-i took 1/2" water pipe (or whatever fits in your hardy hole)and a strip of mild steel.You bend a strip around the pipe untill two sides meet eachother and then you weld top part of eyelet on a steel plate.Then all you have to do is spread those two peaces apart and they act like a spring -very easy to put it on the anvil and to pull it out.
That Vevor anvil is ok, but it's only 30kg. I have the 40kg steel one, and it's so much better than the 30kg one I tried at a friend's place. The extra weight makes a huge difference in the performance of the anvil. I would definitely recommend going with the 40kg one instead, if you can afford it.
That Atlantic33 is some tough stuff! I was looking at your swage block & stand in the background. Did you have a video where you put that together? I bought a Saltfork swage block a few years ago and have yet to build a dedicated stand for it.
I curious as to why you didn’t go to edge of anvil to create the shoulders for wedge before tapering? I am brand new to Blacksmithing and have probably watched over half of your videos, sorry if it’s a stupid question, but I soak up everything you teach and was genuinely curious. On another note, Harbor Freight has a very cheap leather apron and glove combo for $20 or so bucks that will get you buy until you can sell a few items and afford a better apron.
Thanks John great video , could you tell us more about hardening and tempering axle materials? Because I can find that on the cheap but don't have the funds for known quality? Do I quench ýellow in oil and toaster oven finish 🤔 or quench bright lemon or dull orange.???for unknown axle materials? Cheers mate 👍🏻
Test hardening to determine if its air hardening, oil hardening or water hardening woulds be the first step. Yellow is to hot for most steels and cause failure. Quenching at cherry red is a good place to start or just slightly hotter than the steel looses it magnetism.
John, Would a more secure or heavier post for that size anvil keep it from bouncing around more? I couldn’t tell for sure, but was that your portable or sand filled anvil support? Thanks, John
Great video as always! With hot fitting the shank by upsetting it in the hardy hole, should I be careful with the time or number of times you have it in there with respect to the heat affecting the hardness of the face of the anvil? I have a 99 kg anvil, so the heat can travel through quite some mass, but locally I would assume it gets too hot. I was wondering if I should be careful in this aspect! Thank you for any advice in advance. Have a great day.
In my experience, you lose heat in your metal before it affects the anvil. You could always douse it with a bit of water between heats if you're concerned though.
If you stop cutting before it cuts clear through and break it off at they edge of the anvil, it wouldn't be necessary. But it would be helpful is you frequently cut clear through.
Noise is a killer for me. I got that same 30kg Vevor anvil and hammer blows echo like crazy. I tried chaining it down to a big log base (~60kg I guess) and I attached magnets all over the anvil, but it still makes too much noise in my opinion. I currently live in an apartment and do my crafting work on a large balcony. I would like to start blacksmithing, but I also don't want to annoy my neighbors too much. Do you have any tips?
The more solidly mounted the better. One of the problems with these little anvils is that they sit up on feet instead of a solid base. I wonder if a wooden base could be carved to fit the opening under the anvil. If that could be done the anvil could be set into silicone over that larger contact area.
I cut a wood block from a scrap of 4x6 to fit the space between the legs of the anvil. Dap latex caulk was used to fill the gaps and glue the block to both the anvil and the wood base. It really took the ring out of my Accio anvil.
The forging process would be the same. Hardening and tempering would change depending on the steel. Using a small scrap you can heat and air cool to check and see if its air hardening. If not heat and oil quench, if it still doesn't harden try water quenching. I think a lot of axles are medium carbon and probably harden in water. But any unknown steel should go through the testing process.
Neither is all that critical. Probably around 30 degrees for a cutting angle and 50 Rockwell for the hardness. But it will temper back quickly in use as it comes into contact with hot iron. But unless it get red hot, it will still be harder than not hardening at all.
How about the exceedingly thrifty grinder stays out in the shop, and is available for "go-to" repairs {out in the woods, emergency repair} where it gets damaged it's an "oh well".
I thought you had made a choice not to use a coal forge s8nce you determined that it wasn’t cost effective and you used gas much more…? Returning back to your foundations. I like this video for the smal shops most people have.
For my day to day work its mostly propane with the induction forge filling in the gaps. This little shop will be primarily hand tools and the coal forge, once its set up, primarily for UA-cam videos. People really like seeing the open fire.
"Your anvil should weigh 10X your biggest hammer"!?!? If I had a 15 pound hammer... I doubt I could swing it with the control necessary around my anvil. I could swing it for busting boulders and rock slabs, but that is a totally different type of swinging.
That would be a minimum. So if you had a friend come over and swing that 15 pound sledge you should have at least a 150 pound anvil. You could potentially break a smaller anvil. If you routinely use a 3 pound hammer and a 100pound anvil, there wouldn't be the same risk.
As a young starter smith who just put together a set up similar to this I love these kind of videos because they show me just how much is still possible
I'm not young but I just put together pretty much the same set up also
Ha I did that as well. I just finished building a good stand for the anvil. Actually that's the first thing I needed the anvil for. Made some metal bands and turned the screwheads square. Made my first S hook on it yesterday. I really enjoy the experience :) wish you guys a lot of fun as well. I think it's awesome that we can pick up this beautiful craft.
I really appreciate it when you do projects in this little shop but this one in particular I was impressed with your ability to forge such a robust piece. Right in the first beats I thought you were going to give up and take it to the power hammer... 😮... But you persisted and went until the end! Congratulations and thank you very much for this true forge class! Cheers!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it
I have the same anvil and was worried that forging something that big would overheat the anvil thank you for showing me its not
I have got to say, I really like the new „stripped back beginners“ shop of yours. Not as cluttered, using the bare essentials, making your own tools to slowly expand the shop. Love it!
We used to use a similar tool for cutting cable, called it a wire axe.
I used a bullpen hammer head. Seems to work well.
I got a semi decent anvil and the stand it was on was the cause of it bouncing. Built a solid steel stand and it no longer bounces.
Bolting down the stand for my little 30kg one made a huge difference for the same reason
I'm way late on this, but I've had expensive grinders working in the oilfield for years. I'm budgeting the hell out of mine and can save you the test. The cheap ones do just fine comparatively, you can't lean into them as hard as the stronger motors without slowing down notably, of course. It's like many other things on a budget, more time but very doable assuming you can physically do the work.
I have access to old jackhammer bits they make great hardies. They are kinda tough to forge
Those 4.5 hitachi grinders are excellent we use them in our industrial fab shop. They last a long time
Awesome
Owning hardly any blacksmithing tools, I fabricated my first Hardy from an old hand axe. The steel is already tough and the blade part already forged to shape. I used a disc grinder with a thin cutting blade to shape the sides as this was quicker than forging. The shoulder stop is a 2" square of 1/2" plate with a square hole in it punched when hot over the end of a pickaxe before being arc welded in place.
It's very satisfying to use because it was the very first thing I made.
"Sometimes you just have to put up with what you have to put up with" Wiser words have never been spoken. After three years of beating on a railway track, I finally scraped up the cash to get a nice 80kg anvil, and would you believe it, just after I finished preparing it for use, my forge blower failed. I have had a beautiful anvil for three days now, and I still have no idea how much better it is - the suspense is killing me :)
I have found that hedge ( Osage orange) works great for an anvil base ,very heavy wood. Your little shop is comming along nicely , good work
This is helping me so much John, I can’t thank you enough!
I made my first hardy tool for the same anvil, and the same tool, a cutoff, but in the most miserable way possible; due to material supply limitations, I upset and shouldered a piece of leaf spring. It fits the hole well, but only sits on the top on two sides. Surprisingly, it actually works pretty well, even if it is ugly!
I appreciate you explaining the available options of steel to use and where we might obtain and reuse steel from other places before you start a project.
Good job. Thank you 😊
I leave a comment so that this video reach more people on UA-cam, and off course to thank you👏🏼
You rock!
I’ve been blacksmithing since the early 70s. I’m very impressed with your hammer control forging the hardy tool. I know power hammers and such are very handy, but I tell beginners to learn hand tool skills because if you can’t forge with hand tools you can’t forge with power tools. Keep up the good work
Thanks 👍
I may have to do this soon, I had used a piece of sucker rod, squared it off on one end and put what amounts to a rounded chisel head on the other, I find it jams a lot, is crooked, only fits one way etc etc, but it was the first anvil tool I made, seeing this I likely can refine it to be a lot better.
I made a nice little hardie cut-off by simply grinding down the handle of a 3” mason’s brick chisel to fit in the hole. I did it when I was just starting my shop; I was short of tools, materials, and expertise- but the little bugger has been serving me well for going on two years.
Anyway, I love your videos, John!
I bought a Harbor Fright $10 angle grinder over 20 years or so ago and it is still going strong. I supplemented with more over the years and each one had a different disk. So with a capital investment of around $130, I have a stable fill of angle grinders. My expensive name-brand 4" died just after the warranty expired. (I did have to change the HF commutator brushes now and then.) My first HF Grinder made an anvil from a 8" piece of work-hardened rail using an orange disc. All in all, I am very happy with them even though the price has gone up.
'
That's a big piece of steel to move on a little anvil. Great job. I always pick up good nuggets from your videos. My shop is without power and under construction for the summer so I'm working in the barn. It's really helped me to go back to the basics and I have used the heck out of my battery powered angle grinder. Thanks for the video.
If your hope is that every time I watch a video I want to get out to my shop and make something, you achieve that superbly. Every episode inspires me to get back to creating. Thank you for continuing to motivate makers!
As always I love your channel! If I can plug another channel I love, @ProjectFarm has good reviews of tools in a very scientific (and destructive) manner. I was just watching his reviews of corded angle grinders the other day thinking I might get a new one soon. Definitely recommended for people looking to get the best value for the money.
I really appreciate it when you do projects in this little shop
My cheapo Black and Decker 4.5" grinder was about $25 and has lasted me years. I've put lots of tile dust and and uncomfortable amount of fiberglass duest through it as well.
I got an angle grinder like thirty years ago and it's been one of my favorite tools. Two things aboutan angle grinder, first a trigger instead of a switch on the top, you can still lock it on so you can handle it with out holding it down. Next, my dad saw me use my grinder and went and got one, but it was I think, a 4 1/4 inch, so wouldn't take most wheels. I went and bought him a cheap 4 1/2" (like $10.00-$20.00) and after about 25 years it was working fine, but the switch on the top strarted to get hard to turn on.
I have the bauer 4 1/2 inch 20 volt angle grinder from Harbor frieght. It works great. I definatelly recommend a 5amp battery.
I've seen those made in many different ways. I like this way. Simple, and practical. Great end results.
As an old fart who is a complete and total noob when it comes to the art of the Smith, I must thank you for your series for the beginners out here... Between you and Christ Centered Iron I have gained enough general knowledge to get my feet wet now... I do 1800+/- frontier re-enacting and there is a lot of Iron-mongery involved... I build powder horns and do a fair bit of leatherwork now I find myself wanting to learn a bit of smithing as well, knives, cooking and camp tools, the list goes on... Now I have the Mr. Volcano single forge and the Vevor Steel 66# anvil on the way for my Christmas present for myself and I already have pretty much everything else tool-wise... Thanks for the inspiration and all the tutorials I look forward to many more...
Awesome video, this new little shop looks like a great opportunity to walk us through how to set up a small BS shop that is bare bones, no electricity. I am loving the potential. I currently forge in my garage. I want to move out of there, but I won't have electricity. It's nice to see that when I do move, I will be just fine.
I bought 4 harbor freight angle grinders at 1 of their parking lot sales for $5 each. They would work for about 6 months of moderate use, then die. I would toss the dead one, then use a new one. I did this for a few years until I broke down and bought a quality angle grinder.
I'm loving the small shop videos! Most of us who dabble in blacksmithing don't have power hammers and fly presses. We have the kind of equipment you're using in the small shop, and it is wonderful to see what can be done solely with basic tools.
Very true, but you can still learn a lot about how material moves watching people working with tools you don't yet own.
I have a 5 x 7 garden shed
thanks John, that is a nice add on for that anvil. I've had issue with getting the bottom half of 30 lb propane tanks too - freezing up and not vaporizing enough propane to maintain pressure.
You might be able to manifold 2 tanks together. Setting the tank in a washtub fill of water also helps slow down how fast they ice up.
John, I don’t know about Colorado but our local welding supply store and even Lowe’s sometimes, has a two pack of DeWalt or Bosch angles grinders for $99.00. I have bought both types to take to Cuba on mission trips and they work well. I currently have two DeWalt’s in my own shop and have no complaints. Great video. Darlington, South Carolina
Ah! It’s for quenching👍🏻
1. I also love my apron from forge aprons. April is a super nice lady.
2. Nothing like the feeling of finishing a self made tool. Great work!
Great video, really appreciate it, just purchased some 4140 to make a cutter for the anvil !
Thank you for this instructional video on forging a hardy tool. I am a learning smith and will have to make all of my handy tools. Would it be possible for you to produce a series on forging different types of hardy tools? Also, my loving and extremely patient wife bought a set of "quick tongs" for me. Perhaps a video on finishing these as well? I realize that you are quite busy, but many of us beginners enjoy your tutorials, and your videos are our only source. So glad that you are here for us.
Here is an older video on the quick tongs ua-cam.com/video/9XunAoCMUbo/v-deo.html
This is the exact tool I've been wanting to make next, but have been nervous about starting. Plus I've been working so far with whatever scrap steel I can find. Looks like I may need to grab a piece of decent stock and give it a go!
I absolutely love your channel, John. You’re such an inspiration for me. I recently made a hardy tool during my livestream using a jackhammer bit thanks to one of your earlier videos. 😊
Nice work!
The best part about a-33 when using it as a punch or drift you can just dunk it in water when it gets to do. No worry about losing hardness or cracking the tool. Rather a drift or punch needs to be hardened or not is another conversation lol.
I really like the style you did this video. It feels like I'm working in my own shed.
On the topic of angle grinders, sometimes it's nice to have a battery-operated one to take to the scrap pile to cut off the piece you need.
Then you can bring the piece to your grinding station and use your wall power.
I also find that the wall powered grinder helps get through thicker steel when you're cutting it.
The battery powered grinder is great for quick cuts. And because it's light it also is great for finessing curves.
And thanks John for another great video.
Hello John
Thank you for this Video.
I like to see you work with basic Tools.
It is a good advice for the beginners .
Thank you very much
I wish you all the best
Yours Frank Galetzka
Glad we have a cutoff tool for the little anvil now. Seems like the hacksaw approach was getting old. The magnets seemed to help with the ring of the anvil.
That flutagon is like hammering frozen clay if it’s not hot enough, but it’s darn useful for punches and chisels. I bought a little bit after you did a few videos using it, and made my best tools so far.
Another excellent video sir.
About grinders, its good to have one for cutoff, one for flap disc, because they are pain to change out when you need them. And corded ones are cheap at yardsales, fleamarkets, online, etc. Just mind if a used one has bearing noise. Cordless are great, stop almost immediately but pricier.
Great video John! I had not considered this tool yet. I’m still setting up my anvil, and needed some materials. I had forgotten about your discount code for blacksmithsupply! How fortuitous!
Glad it was helpful!
@@BlackBearForge ordered some Atlantic 33 and that leg vise you suggested. I’ll keep an eye on the handle as you suggested!
Thanks again for sharing everything you do.
Craftsman 20v series tools work well in my small shop . 2amp hr batteries don't last long so having the 4amp hr batteries is another investment,but I have several of these tools and it works for me . I have the 132lbs anvil with a hardy a little over 1 inch . I was thinking the flat bar option would be a good way to go and take it to work to weld the cut off on it . Thanks again for another good lesson .
Bought the little Bauer angle grinder from HF to pair with my larger Skil (I’m watt-wise working off grid solar);
It seems just as good as the Skil, but doesn’t have a key holder in the handle,,,
However, the handle is hollow so I stuffed two strips of plastic foam in there, voila
Thanks John, I’ve been watching you now for a long time .I subbed can I’ve learned lots , have a hard time retaining it all before I get out and try but I still attempt it now and then. Really I just enjoy your person an your abilities,your videos are always great whatever your doing ,very relaxing.
John great job. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come. Can’t wait for more updates an projects and many more videos soon John. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Forge lit. Keep Making. God bless.
I gots me a big old truck spring . It should work fine
Years ago I purchased a very inexpensive angle grinder at Tractor Supply, no brand name that meant anything, and it is still working. I sent it to my son's cabin in Montana for his use and it works but appears that it is having some armature trouble with a couple dead spots.
Just in time! Am about to make a hardy for my Vevor anvil. 4 1/2" angle grinder has been the most-used power tool in my shop for over two decades. After a string of Makitas, have had good luck (three years so far) with the HF Hercules grinder. Whichever brand, would strongly suggest one with a dead man switch. Ask me how I know!
Great and informative video, as usual, I agree that every anvil needs a hardy tool or two and this is a very good video to help people get started making some of their own tools.
I've made a few tools of my own for my old anvil, anything to help make it more productive and useful.
Thanks again for another great video.
John V.
Project farm does a lot of cool testing of power tools. Would be cool to see collabs between you guys!
I'm definitely going to invest in bigger propane tanks, those BBQ sized ones will only do 2 forge welds before they go dry.
We have a base model 4½in angel grinder at Harbor Freight for $15 right now that will last about 6 months (get the extended warranty for $5 and we'll replace it no questions asked)
I have four of the little 4 1/2" corded angle grinders: One with a cutoff wheel, one with a thick grinding wheel, one with a flap disc, and one kinda back in the bullpen, so to speak. They're all Harbor Freight 9.99 specials. Oldest one is >10 years old and has had the absolute snot beat out of it, and still going. Sure makes it time-saving to go from one application to another.
Up one level, thank you John for your videos. I'm learning quite a bit from you!
Another great project, and it's so satisfying to make a tool you'll be using all the time! With regards to the angle grinder, I think this is something I picked up from one of your previous videos, but having a second grinder can be a huge quality of life upgrade once you start using them. I have one with a cutoff wheel, and one with a 60 grit flap disc, and being able to use the cutoff and then quickly dress it with the flap disc without having to change discs is very convenient. Thanks for sharing!
Love the “voice over” method. It makes your explanations much easier to understand. When getting a gas forge, is a two burner worth the extra cost? I hate buying a tool twice because I “cheeped-out” the first time. Thank you again for your time and knowledge.
It really depends on the size of work you need to heat. For smaller projects and short heats a single burner is plenty.
@@BlackBearForgethanks again John. I think for the small shop we need more tongs.
Have you considered (if you havent made one already) doing a video on types of steel? You could focus on whats best for beginners and whats most common to find, and what kind of scrap is good (like car axle for example)
I told my sons that a hardie was the next tool we needed to make but they don’t believe me
Very nice series, I love it!
Please don't waste your money on a cheap angle grinder. In Germany you get the low end models of Makita or Bosch Professional for about 50,- € and in the US there are sometimes rediculous deals on Milwaukee and DeWalt. Those machines will last a lifetime for a hobbyist. That's money well spend vesus setting your shop on fire with some el-cheapo, you saved 25$ on...
Nice work John, I admire you sticking at doing it by hand on that little anvil, I think I'd have moved to the power hammer after the second heat. ;) We are spoiled for choice though eh? going back into history how many generations of smiths would have loved to be working on an anvil as big as that 'little' anvil?
Ah, how timely, I just bought a Vevor Accaio 50kg (110#) and the hardy hole is 0.8" square and I need to make a cutoff too for it, also. I have an axel I can use, too
Such a great work. 👏👏
Missed ya John, not been on in a while, a lot to catch up on.👍
Welcome back!
Don't know how the economics works. But if you already have a couple of 20# cylinders laying around you could make a manifold to connect 2 or more at once which would increase the surface area to pickup the heat needed to evaporate your propane and keep the pressure up. Like I said if you don't already have the 20# tanks and had to buy new it might be cheaper to just get the 100# cylinder.
Manifolding the 2 - 20 pounders does help but a 100lb cylinder is the better option in most cases. This little forge comes with a regulator set up for the male threads on a 20 pound cylinder and not the typical left hand fuel threads found on 100 pounders
Here's a question for later down the road. If you made a hardy tool that you don't plan on using often, would coat it something? Also if you look online for a place that buys palettes of unsellables from warehouses, you can buy new power tools for dirt cheap. Often the only problem is the packaging. I bought a brand new angle grinder for $4
I frequently heat tools up just enough to melt some wax onto them,. Something like paste wax or beeswax works well
I went to a local tool rental company and they gave me a broken jackhammer bit. It's really tough steel.
Those work out quite well, especially if you can use the existing collar.
You dont need to make it form a one peace of steel.I made mine out of old axe that had broken eyelet -i cut down eyelet and then i ground it straight.Then i took a small plate of steel and i welded it to it. You dont even need a shank-i took 1/2" water pipe (or whatever fits in your hardy hole)and a strip of mild steel.You bend a strip around the pipe untill two sides meet eachother and then you weld top part of eyelet on a steel plate.Then all you have to do is spread those two peaces apart and they act like a spring -very easy to put it on the anvil and to pull it out.
Assuming you have a welder available thats a good way to get the job done. Many home hobbyists may not have that option.
@@BlackBearForge Nothing that beer bottle cannot solve.People forget that you dont have to know how to weld you just need to know someone who does!
That Vevor anvil is ok, but it's only 30kg. I have the 40kg steel one, and it's so much better than the 30kg one I tried at a friend's place. The extra weight makes a huge difference in the performance of the anvil. I would definitely recommend going with the 40kg one instead, if you can afford it.
Simply misspoke. Sorry for any confusion
That Atlantic33 is some tough stuff! I was looking at your swage block & stand in the background. Did you have a video where you put that together? I bought a Saltfork swage block a few years ago and have yet to build a dedicated stand for it.
ua-cam.com/video/4xBOM4dWrW4/v-deo.html
You don't have to necessarily cheap out on an angle grinder. I bought a Milwaukee for less than $30 on clearance at home depot
I curious as to why you didn’t go to edge of anvil to create the shoulders for wedge before tapering? I am brand new to Blacksmithing and have probably watched over half of your videos, sorry if it’s a stupid question, but I soak up everything you teach and was genuinely curious. On another note, Harbor Freight has a very cheap leather apron and glove combo for $20 or so bucks that will get you buy until you can sell a few items and afford a better apron.
Thanks John great video , could you tell us more about hardening and tempering axle materials? Because I can find that on the cheap but don't have the funds for known quality? Do I quench ýellow in oil and toaster oven finish 🤔 or quench bright lemon or dull orange.???for unknown axle materials? Cheers mate 👍🏻
Test hardening to determine if its air hardening, oil hardening or water hardening woulds be the first step. Yellow is to hot for most steels and cause failure. Quenching at cherry red is a good place to start or just slightly hotter than the steel looses it magnetism.
@@BlackBearForge thank you John 😊
@@BlackBearForge for a different way of thinking that's about when I'm going to pull the oxygen trigger for oxy/ propane cutting 🤔,,, Nice even red 👍
Is that a beer anchor you’ve got beside the propane tank?
John,
Would a more secure or heavier post for that size anvil keep it from bouncing around more?
I couldn’t tell for sure, but was that your portable or sand filled anvil support?
Thanks,
John
Great video as always! With hot fitting the shank by upsetting it in the hardy hole, should I be careful with the time or number of times you have it in there with respect to the heat affecting the hardness of the face of the anvil? I have a 99 kg anvil, so the heat can travel through quite some mass, but locally I would assume it gets too hot. I was wondering if I should be careful in this aspect! Thank you for any advice in advance. Have a great day.
In my experience, you lose heat in your metal before it affects the anvil. You could always douse it with a bit of water between heats if you're concerned though.
It would take much larger material in contact with the anvil for much longer to effect the anvils temper.
I'm curious..... Why do you want to deaden the anvil's ring?
What are your thoughts on using a mild steel hammer when using a Hardy cut off?
If you stop cutting before it cuts clear through and break it off at they edge of the anvil, it wouldn't be necessary. But it would be helpful is you frequently cut clear through.
Question how heavy of a hammer would you recommend me I am 5'9 280 .I can bench somewhere around 170 I'm thinking a 5 pound hammer
Is the car axle a where quench steel
Great video! Quick question, what size beam/post do you have the anvil attached to? Looks like a 12x12? Just curious. Keep up the great work!👍
its about 10 x 12, but something a bit larger would be more stable
Noise is a killer for me. I got that same 30kg Vevor anvil and hammer blows echo like crazy. I tried chaining it down to a big log base (~60kg I guess) and I attached magnets all over the anvil, but it still makes too much noise in my opinion. I currently live in an apartment and do my crafting work on a large balcony. I would like to start blacksmithing, but I also don't want to annoy my neighbors too much. Do you have any tips?
The more solidly mounted the better. One of the problems with these little anvils is that they sit up on feet instead of a solid base. I wonder if a wooden base could be carved to fit the opening under the anvil. If that could be done the anvil could be set into silicone over that larger contact area.
I cut a wood block from a scrap of 4x6 to fit the space between the legs of the anvil. Dap latex caulk was used to fill the gaps and glue the block to both the anvil and the wood base. It really took the ring out of my Accio anvil.
If you were using a chunk of car axel would the process and quench be similar?
The forging process would be the same. Hardening and tempering would change depending on the steel. Using a small scrap you can heat and air cool to check and see if its air hardening. If not heat and oil quench, if it still doesn't harden try water quenching. I think a lot of axles are medium carbon and probably harden in water. But any unknown steel should go through the testing process.
@@BlackBearForge That sounds reasonable! By chance, do you have a video on the topic?
Could the anvil jumping around be fixed by attaching it to a much heavier stand?
Yes, the heavier the base the better
@@BlackBearForge If the base was something on the order of 200#, would the performance approach that of your main shop anvil?
I'd kill for an anvil. All i have is sledgehammer head set into wooden log that's standing upright...
Is that a Brent Bailey hammer?
Yes it is, its been a great hammer
Just starting out and wondering what kind of tongs you used for this?
These are called bolt tongs, some are V bit and some round bit.
What angle do you use for the cutting edge?
What hardness are you shooting for?
Neither is all that critical. Probably around 30 degrees for a cutting angle and 50 Rockwell for the hardness. But it will temper back quickly in use as it comes into contact with hot iron. But unless it get red hot, it will still be harder than not hardening at all.
thanks @@BlackBearForge
I havent been able to find any documentation detailing the hardness or tensile strength, etc of atlantic 33. Do you know where I could find that?
There isn't much available. but here is what I could find www.canonballforge.com/about-a33
@@BlackBearForge thanks very much! Love all your vids, by the way.
So it's pointy instead of sharp, more of a wedge than knife [cause the heat helps].
How about the exceedingly thrifty grinder stays out in the shop, and is available for "go-to" repairs {out in the woods, emergency repair} where it gets damaged it's an "oh well".
a-ch-eye-oh! It's Italian.
I thought you had made a choice not to use a coal forge s8nce you determined that it wasn’t cost effective and you used gas much more…? Returning back to your foundations. I like this video for the smal shops most people have.
For my day to day work its mostly propane with the induction forge filling in the gaps. This little shop will be primarily hand tools and the coal forge, once its set up, primarily for UA-cam videos. People really like seeing the open fire.
"Your anvil should weigh 10X your biggest hammer"!?!?
If I had a 15 pound hammer... I doubt I could swing it with the control necessary around my anvil. I could swing it for busting boulders and rock slabs, but that is a totally different type of swinging.
That would be a minimum. So if you had a friend come over and swing that 15 pound sledge you should have at least a 150 pound anvil. You could potentially break a smaller anvil. If you routinely use a 3 pound hammer and a 100pound anvil, there wouldn't be the same risk.
@@BlackBearForge Thank you!
So, that might be the cause for images of some anvil failures where the horn or heel breaks?
👍👍👍👍🙂🙂
Doesn't it weigh 30kg if you say that it's a 66lbs anvil?
Simply misspoke. Sorry for any confusion