Noticed you use yellow on one side, green on the other. Those should have one of each color on each side. Yellow over the rear, green over the forward shoe.
THANK YOU...for sharing. On the end of your spring tool handle is a small round drum, this drum is inserted over the stud that holds the springs on and then you rotate and the small tab catches the spring and removes the spring. Works really good...saves on the knuckles :)
Thank you so much for your Video. You have a great gift for explaining each step of the process along with key insight as to the purpose and interaction of the components of the wheels brake assembly. Your attention to Do's & Dont's was also extremely helpful. Your use of lighting to clearly identify each part during the process was greatly appreciated, along with the sound quality of your dicussion. Well done Sir ! A great refresher for an old shade tree mechanic just pulling my Daughters 72 SS out of the barn from an 18yr nap for Resurrection. ☆Patient: 72 SS•Hot 350•Fire Engine Red w/Black Vinyl Top•M21 4Spd. 🤞
@@JoDaddysGarage much better video thanks. Only slight differences to the 71 Chevelle. Makes me think the Impala had a better design considering all that holds the Chevelle's brake parts in place until the springs are hopes and dreams 🤣
Extremely well done tutorial! Thanks for taking the time out to do this! Got a 70 Malibu 350 A/C.65,000 original miles, beautiful original paint, drivetrain, from 92 year old woman original owner. Astro blue/blue vinyl top/blue interior.
Finally I found a video that talks about the placement of the spring above the adjuster bar! THANK YOU!!!! Several videos talk about that spring but NO reference to it hitting the adjustment gears if turned the wrong way. If the spring is installed like a lot of these other videos(Not checking the position of spring) you won’t be able to adjust brakes with screwdriver. Wheel won’t turn. I found out the hard way. SPRING SHOULD NOT TOUCH ADJUSTMENT WHEEL!!!! Good luck my friends!
Most high mileage cars I worked on, the backing plates were worn where brakes shoes contacted them (often to point backing plates had to be discarded ... no mig welders back then). Self adjusters were always frozen. I believe Permatex still has a good copper based grease for drum brake parts and I would highly recommend using some on those areas. Oil and rubber are questionable, not sure what is in WD-40 so I wouldn't recommend using it on wheel cylinder to push pin interface (petroleum products on old tech rubber usually makes it swell). If it has to be cleaned isopropyl alcohol is very cheap and won't harm rubber. I am surprised your customer didn't choose this time to upgrade to a modern 4 wheel disc brake system. Since entire hydraulics being replaced/rebuilt along with the booster, I think an opportunity was missed. Aside from that, that's a nice car. I could see myself buying it and changing some things.
Does the larger shoe retaining spring go on the back shoe and the smaller one on the fornt. I thought they may have sent me the wrong sets but one commenter mentioned they were different. Thanks. This is the best video i have looked at so far. Wish the back shoe assembly was recorded. A bear!
I've been working on my own car for 40 years. Two years ago I rebuilt both rear brakes on my 86 Camaro and it passed inspection with flying colors. Come forward to last week. After driving it for a year and parking for another I took it back through inspection and my rear brakes failed. Took it into the shop and tore down both brakes trying to find the problem but found nothing wrong. I must have watched ten videos on drum brakes today and then I found yours. At 4:30 of the video you gave me the solution. I never knew that the adjusters were threaded opposite of each other because I've never installed both before from a kit. I've only done one at a time as they went bad. You saved my brake job that has taken two years to complete properly. Thank you!!!
Great video. The lower spring orientation was what i needed to know. Is it not common practice to wire wheel and antiseize the 6 points the shoes float against? Also, I would have liked to have been reminded to exercise the slave before installing it, both of mine were stuck out and I didnt realize it... Each of the past 3 decades ive done one drum brake job. This decade I might get lucky and do five, lol.
Thank you! doing a 1998 Chevrolet C1500 pick up 2wd and the rear drums are still the same! Nothing for a C1500 on UA-cam but plenty of stuf forr 6 bolt or K1500, 6 bolt is standard now but 2 wheel drive ad 5 bolts used to be
I used to own a 72 Chevelle. Beautiful car, cream yellow, white vinyl top & interior. It was just a 350, but what a ride down a freeway. I lost interest due to rust in the common places. That was 25 years ago...................... Your brakes are just like those on the 71 C-10 I'm restoring ground up. Until today I had never done a brake job, but again, your video is tight. It also helped me distinguish how my RH side was done wrong. ......................You probably know this, but if you slip off the cap on those adjusters, I believe you'll see an "L" or "R". Near as I can tell the adjusters, adjuster links, adjuster plates and E-brake plates are not interchangeable.
I believe you are correct. I just noticed there were 2 yellow and 2 green springs. I just did an updated version of this repair on a 65 Impala. it had 2 different springs. Good observation.
Good job just got back from Arizona for a parts run for the Torino and thought of you there's mustangs there from 64 to 77. Hope the brake job turns out fine .
I typically clamp onto the spring with vise grips. I guess I failed to say or show that. I have shown it in other brake repair videos. Sorry about that.
@@JoDaddysGarage lol swapped a 65 gto rear end into my 81 cutlass. every other video on youtube said to use my other side as a reference... thats great... if you have a reference side. Your video showed everything i needed to see. Thanks. "The Turd" thanks you also.
I have a brake drum question for you. My 1966 restorer Mustang has a small chunk out of the drum rim (near the splash shield side, not the bolt side). It looks like someone might have hit it to get the drum off and knocked a small chunk off...it is nowhere near the drum surface ...should I replace it anyway or does that give me a pass ? Nothing is cracked, scored, etc...Thanks in advance
On my 71 LeMans my adjuster is not contacting the parking brake plate and the parking brake isn't working, the passenger side rear wheel will lock up when hitting the brakes hard not sure what's going on, but the driver side wheel is working fine, I've checked all the springs multiple times
@@JoDaddysGarage they seem to be in the right spot we think that the arm that connects the plate to the post is to long and not holding it in the right place
Im doing the rear brakes on my 1970 Monte Carlo which I have owned since 1975. I have done the brakes many times but its been 20 years or so since I did anything on the brakes. This video was absolutely perfect for refreshing my memory and I wanted to make sure It was done correctly! I only do 1 side at a time but this helped tremendously! Thank you very much.
Very nice video ! Mentioned all necessary important points and reviewed them again for emphasis. Excellent recommendations for other than standard tools.
My friend; learn the proper names of the rear brake drum parts and you can bleed the brakes by yourself. If you use a rubber hose connected to the bleeder and use a glass container so you can see if you need to add more fluid in it, that way you can bleed them yourself. I learned how to work on cars when I was eight years old and I'm 69 y/o now. Common rear brakes haven't changed in the last 70-80 years.
brakes are meant to be bled starting CLOSEST to the master first and finish with the furthest away from the master .Or you will just push air to the one you already bled .
Noticed you use yellow on one side, green on the other. Those should have one of each color on each side. Yellow over the rear, green over the forward shoe.
Was wondering if anyone else caught that too
Great job on training
It's so dangerous to release the shoes hold down springs first, there is still a lot of tension on the main springs.
THANK YOU...for sharing. On the end of your spring tool handle is a small round drum, this drum is inserted over the stud that holds the springs on and then you rotate and the small tab catches the spring and removes the spring. Works really good...saves on the knuckles :)
Thank you so much for your Video. You have a great gift for explaining each step of the process along with key insight as to the purpose and interaction of the components of the wheels brake assembly. Your attention to Do's & Dont's was also extremely helpful.
Your use of lighting to clearly identify each part during the process was greatly appreciated, along with the sound quality of your dicussion.
Well done Sir !
A great refresher for an old shade tree mechanic just pulling my Daughters 72 SS out of the barn from an 18yr nap for Resurrection.
☆Patient: 72 SS•Hot 350•Fire Engine Red w/Black Vinyl Top•M21 4Spd.
🤞
Pointless. Why shut the camera off while doing the work? It would be nice if there were a video that actually shows how to put the springs on.
Try this one. ua-cam.com/video/XT66OprWzxk/v-deo.html
@@JoDaddysGarage much better video thanks. Only slight differences to the 71 Chevelle. Makes me think the Impala had a better design considering all that holds the Chevelle's brake parts in place until the springs are hopes and dreams 🤣
Thanks for the trick how to install the adjuster after the bottom connector spring is attached: 10:45
Extremely well done tutorial! Thanks for taking the time out to do this! Got a 70 Malibu 350 A/C.65,000 original miles, beautiful original paint, drivetrain, from 92 year old woman original owner. Astro blue/blue vinyl top/blue interior.
I did my brakes , the drum turned freely on one side and became tight on the other side and won’t turn even with the adjustments turned down.
Check the width of the shoes. See if it turns freely with the drum only part way on.
@@JoDaddysGarage the drums are heavy. I also had to remove the axles, it’s a 1964 Chevrolet c-20 , 3/4 ton pick up truck. Thanks.
How did you get those pins in the new wheel cylinder?
Just push them into the boot.
Thanks for your efforts! I did a 82 Camaro which is simular, and you video help a lot!......GM should have eliminated drums a long time ago.
Finally I found a video that talks about the placement of the spring above the adjuster bar! THANK YOU!!!! Several videos talk about that spring but NO reference to it hitting the adjustment gears if turned the wrong way. If the spring is installed like a lot of these other videos(Not checking the position of spring) you won’t be able to adjust brakes with screwdriver. Wheel won’t turn. I found out the hard way. SPRING SHOULD NOT TOUCH ADJUSTMENT WHEEL!!!! Good luck my friends!
Saw a trick where a guy put a 8-10” clear plastic tube (tight fitting) over bleeder while bleeding. Could easily tell when they were bled.
Most high mileage cars I worked on, the backing plates were worn where brakes shoes contacted them (often to point backing plates had to be discarded ... no mig welders back then). Self adjusters were always frozen. I believe Permatex still has a good copper based grease for drum brake parts and I would highly recommend using some on those areas. Oil and rubber are questionable, not sure what is in WD-40 so I wouldn't recommend using it on wheel cylinder to push pin interface (petroleum products on old tech rubber usually makes it swell). If it has to be cleaned isopropyl alcohol is very cheap and won't harm rubber.
I am surprised your customer didn't choose this time to upgrade to a modern 4 wheel disc brake system. Since entire hydraulics being replaced/rebuilt along with the booster, I think an opportunity was missed. Aside from that, that's a nice car. I could see myself buying it and changing some things.
Does the larger shoe retaining spring go on the back shoe and the smaller one on the fornt. I thought they may have sent me the wrong sets but one commenter mentioned they were different. Thanks. This is the best video i have looked at so far. Wish the back shoe assembly was recorded. A bear!
It should show in the video. The shoes are different. one large and one small (pad) on each side.
@@JoDaddysGarage shoe retaining "spring"? This kit has 2 different sized springs
Sorry. I misread that. Are they not color coded? The ones I used had a color that indicated where they went. Look at a still from the video.
I've been working on my own car for 40 years. Two years ago I rebuilt both rear brakes on my 86 Camaro and it passed inspection with flying colors. Come forward to last week. After driving it for a year and parking for another I took it back through inspection and my rear brakes failed. Took it into the shop and tore down both brakes trying to find the problem but found nothing wrong. I must have watched ten videos on drum brakes today and then I found yours. At 4:30 of the video you gave me the solution. I never knew that the adjusters were threaded opposite of each other because I've never installed both before from a kit. I've only done one at a time as they went bad. You saved my brake job that has taken two years to complete properly. Thank you!!!
This made my day. I'm happy to have assisted in finding the problem. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. The lower spring orientation was what i needed to know. Is it not common practice to wire wheel and antiseize the 6 points the shoes float against? Also, I would have liked to have been reminded to exercise the slave before installing it, both of mine were stuck out and I didnt realize it... Each of the past 3 decades ive done one drum brake job. This decade I might get lucky and do five, lol.
Thank you! doing a 1998 Chevrolet C1500 pick up 2wd and the rear drums are still the same! Nothing for a C1500 on UA-cam but plenty of stuf forr 6 bolt or K1500, 6 bolt is standard now but 2 wheel drive ad 5 bolts used to be
Thank you so much for uploading this video. I took apart my drum brake on my '73 Chevy Nova and forgot how the parking brake went. Glad I found this.
very nice thank you for your knowledge, which was applied to my 79 camaro
I used to own a 72 Chevelle. Beautiful car, cream yellow, white vinyl top & interior. It was just a 350, but what a ride down a freeway. I lost interest due to rust in the common places. That was 25 years ago...................... Your brakes are just like those on the 71 C-10 I'm restoring ground up. Until today I had never done a brake job, but again, your video is tight. It also helped me distinguish how my RH side was done wrong. ......................You probably know this, but if you slip off the cap on those adjusters, I believe you'll see an "L" or "R". Near as I can tell the adjusters, adjuster links, adjuster plates and E-brake plates are not interchangeable.
Aren’t the hold down springs suppose to two different colors and designs?
Just asking...
Larry
I believe you are correct. I just noticed there were 2 yellow and 2 green springs. I just did an updated version of this repair on a 65 Impala. it had 2 different springs. Good observation.
Good video and tips. Been a while since I've done rear drum brakes. I was also taught to do one at a time for reference.
Very thorough and well thought out! Cheers!
Good job just got back from Arizona for a parts run for the Torino and thought of you there's mustangs there from 64 to 77. Hope the brake job turns out fine .
Awesome video! Thank you for posting.
Man, you skipped over the hardest part, which is getting the damn springs on. Any tips?
I typically clamp onto the spring with vise grips. I guess I failed to say or show that. I have shown it in other brake repair videos. Sorry about that.
i love you
Uh... Thanks? lol
@@JoDaddysGarage lol swapped a 65 gto rear end into my 81 cutlass. every other video on youtube said to use my other side as a reference... thats great... if you have a reference side. Your video showed everything i needed to see. Thanks. "The Turd" thanks you also.
I have a brake drum question for you. My 1966 restorer Mustang has a small chunk out of the drum rim (near the splash shield side, not the bolt side). It looks like someone might have hit it to get the drum off and knocked a small chunk off...it is nowhere near the drum surface ...should I replace it anyway or does that give me a pass ? Nothing is cracked, scored, etc...Thanks in advance
I'd replace it. You don't know if there's a crack that you can't see, and drums are cheap.
once again..Thank you ....
This guy is awesome
Thanks. You've had the most informative video I've found. Really helpful. I am doing a 75 g10
What a great video. Nice job, thank you.
Flashback to the past when I did brakes on my 72 Plymouth fury! Great video as always.
On my 71 LeMans my adjuster is not contacting the parking brake plate and the parking brake isn't working, the passenger side rear wheel will lock up when hitting the brakes hard not sure what's going on, but the driver side wheel is working fine, I've checked all the springs multiple times
Something is definitely out of place. How close are the shoes adjusted to the drum?
@@JoDaddysGarage they seem to be in the right spot we think that the arm that connects the plate to the post is to long and not holding it in the right place
Both sides should look exactly the same. Double check everything. Measure.
Great informative vid . Thanks
Good job👍
Great video, do I need to bleed the brakes if I just change the shoes ?
Shouldn't have to. No loss of fluid.
Jo Daddy's Garage thank you never attempted rear brakes before they always looked complicated have done front callipers before going to try rears 👍
Im doing the rear brakes on my 1970 Monte Carlo which I have owned since 1975. I have done the brakes many times but its been 20 years or so since I did anything on the brakes. This video was absolutely perfect for refreshing my memory and I wanted to make sure It was done correctly! I only do 1 side at a time but this helped tremendously! Thank you very much.
Info needed. Should I oil or grease the pins that go into the new brake cylinder rubbers or not. It seems very tite fit.
It shouldn't be be necessary. If anything a little WD-40 will let it go together easier.
Thanks will try it.
same for 65 chevelle malibu?
Should be.
perfect vid bro!! better then others!!
Very nice video ! Mentioned all necessary important points and reviewed them again for emphasis.
Excellent recommendations for other than standard tools.
Thanks
My friend; learn the proper names of the rear brake drum parts and you can bleed the brakes by yourself. If you use a rubber hose connected to the bleeder and use a glass container so you can see if you need to add more fluid in it, that way you can bleed them yourself.
I learned how to work on cars when I was eight years old and I'm 69 y/o now.
Common rear brakes haven't changed in the last 70-80 years.
is it the same one a Gmc c25 from 1971
It should be very similar.
brakes are meant to be bled starting CLOSEST to the master first and finish with the furthest away from the master .Or you will just push air to the one you already bled .
derek crymble www.caranddriver.com/features/how-to-bleed-your-brakes-feature