Your description at 3:41 is spot on! I’m amazed how perfectly your explained what happens to my 2012 Volvo C30 T5. I didn’t have any idea why my ac was freezing one moment and then hot after accelerating, sometimes I could get it to be cold by turning off the ac and then turning it on again, other times I had to restart the car before it blew cold again. Thank you for helping me figure out it is the ac compressor clutch and not a vacuum leak, or electrical issue, or low freon!
Thank you Robert! Another great video! I had a 1mm gap on the AC Compressor Clutch and the AC stopped working on long trips, I always had to restart the car for the AC to come back again. Well, I showed your zip tie magic to my mechanic, he paused, looked at me, smile and said, "that's a good idea, let's do it!" And now there's no more stopping on the AC, working all the way perfectly! Hehe! Thank you once again, Robert!
Growing up we were so poor, we had to dream up all manner of work-arounds to keep our cars on the road because money was hard to come by. When I saw you explaining how you used zip ties as spacers to avoid having to pull the clutch the genius was apparent - necessity as they say is the mother (father) of invention! I'm impressed and subscribed! My brand new 2011 C70 T5 has been doing exactly what you described and I'm so glad I happened upon this video and that you had already found a quick-fix as well as the correct fix. Sure saves me a lot of time and $$$, oh wait, let me put that in Volvo terms - $$$$$$$$$$! You should compile all these fixes in a single manual and offer it for sale!
LOL, I wish I could take credit for that however, most of these incredible fixes are learned from VolvoForums.com, MatthewsVolvoSite.com and others who have fixed these "built broke" vehicles over the years. I just have the grace to translate them into video and post them for the world to enjoy. Thanks for watching.
Old video but truly helped me this weekend with a 1600 mile trip and temp already up in 90-100 degrees. I had remembered watching this video a Few years back, well the a/c would come on and turn off in a few secs then never come back on, I remembered the slip tie method and at a hwy rest stop, took me 10 minutes and 6 zip ties tried it and it worked great! A\C was ice cold all the way to FL. Thanks for a great tip that helped me and 3 kids stay comfortable on a 2 day trip.
Thanks for putting this video on here Robert, I used the zip ties option on my 850 a couple of years ago and the air conditioning is still working perfectly..... 👍🏼
Thanks again Robert for a great video. My A/C just stopped working. The clutch/compressor has gone out and needs to be replaced. I'm off to the junk yard to see if I can find a used one. Your videos help me to understand how to diagnose & fix issues that come up. I have the desire to learn all that I can about my 1993 Volvo wagon and keep it on the road. Currently it has 301,365 miles and still going strong. Please keep the great videos coming. : )
Hey Robert DIY, I put in this hack and it works great. I first thought the tie wraps would be too much and the clutch would always be engaged, but the clutch works just like it should. No more a/c cutting out after a while anymore. Even on our Connecticut 90 degree days. Thanks!
Great video! I had the same problem with the a/c. I went to Home Depot bought one foot of 14 gauge solid copper wire. I cut three pieces, 2 inches each. I used two hammers to flatten them, one as an anvil. I bent one end of the flattened shim slightly, about ¼ inch from the end. I couldn’t get to the clutch from the top. I went underneath. I removed the plastic cover under the grill. One 10mm bolt on the end dropped the cover and I had great access to the clutch. I followed your steps and fixed it! Thanks!! I have a 2002 V70 wagon with 205,000 miles.
I did know that the clutch gap was way to big in my 940, 1.2mm and gathered info about how to disassemble the unit to remove spacers. Then i saw this video on Roberts channel which i love. This was a quick fix! Thank you! My AC runs without turning off after a couple of minutes :-) BTW; I happily drive a 940 with room to spare around the AC pump, didn't have to take anything loose, just a 10 minute fiddling with some zip ties. I managed to narrow the clutch gap from 1.2mm to about 0.55mm (still just out of spec but working great)
Robert, thank you for the very detailed and highly useful video. You just saved me a good $1,200 in parts and labor to make a simple clutch adjustment instead of replacing a whole compressor. Well done!
Thank you Robert I put in the wire ties as you described and it made me look like I knew what I was doing. It ended up taking me less than an hour and it worked GREAT! Couldn't be more pleased. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Roland
Hey Robert. My wife has an old V70 with the same problem. I was going to pull the compressor and yank out a shim but I happened across your video and I figured I would try it. I needed to make up .3mm 'cause I had .6. I had some small zip ties that were .3mm and it took a little while but I got them in and the AC works great. Quick cheap fix for now. Now we see how long they last! Thanks so much for the tip!
I have some the next size up. They are.5mm thick. I've driven the car for a few hours and it's working great so far. If these flatten out and it starts cutting out again, I'll throw in the bigger ones. It was not a bad job. I pulled the wheel and the inner fender and was able to get at the clutch without too much trouble. Now that I've done it once, the next time will be easy! Thanks again.
What year model car is it? On the P80 cars, I can do it in 5 minutes now. Not sure if I drop the air guide or not. lol It should work at least 6 months.
It's an '02. I was able to peal the inner fender back just enough to get my hands in there. I really should remove a shim but I have to drop the compressor to get my puller on the clutch. We'll see how long it lasts. If it gets through the Summer I will be very, very happy!
Thank you Robert for this great video. It really helped me to fix my A/C, clutch gap was too big. Tell you what buddy, when I was on my driveway, hood up and broomstick in engine compartment my neighbour came to wonder what i was up to.. I said "I´m starting my ac compressor" he said with laugh:"well I usually press the button on my dash" :D Well thanks anyway, this isn´t first time when i´m using your videos to repair my Volvo!:)
LOL, I got the same response from one of my neighbors. The best one is when you are standing at the fuel filler with a hose trying to listen for the fuel pump.
Very helpful. I recently replaced my alternator myself but afterwards my a/c stopped working. So now I know what is most likely the problem thanks robert.
Thanks for another great trouble shoot vid Robert. I had bought a 98 S70 from my boss that had been sitting on the company property for months it seems. No cold air out of my ac and the clutch was engaging and dis-engaging ever couple of seconds. Checked the psi and it was way low. I then proceeded with charging the refrigerant and after a few moments the clutch stopped dis-engaging and the psi started to rise. Emptied the can into the system and the psi stabilized at mid 30's, checked the air flow from the vents and sure enough it was frosty. I haven't tested the system while driving so i don't know if there is gap problem with the clutch but i know i'll come back to this video if there is. My guess is that the refrigerant slowly seeped out over time due the car and ac system not being used, kind of like a tire loses air a goes flat if it sits for a long time not being used. This S70 is my first car and i only paid $1500 for it. Your videos (This one as well as the radiator repair/install) have helped me save almost that much by giving me the confidence to do the repairs myself and i will continue to turn to your DIY Volvo videos (as well as Matt's Volvo Forum) when i encounter problems. I recently joined the Official UK Volvo High Mileage Club at 196,000+ miles and i fully intend on doing what i can to bring my Volvo to the level of reliability that they are known for.
Good to read. The AC systems in these cars often leak freon from the evaporator which is located deep in the dash. As long are you don't have to service more then once every 90 days, I wouldn't worry about it. Have fun and thanks for watching.
Excellent video and troubleshooting explanations. You helped me understand my problem and resolution. I have one comment. I would have shown the feeler gauge in the location to measure. The only reason I think I know where to do it is because at the very end of the video you pointed in between the clutch & pulley which I think is where I'm supposed to measure but I am still not 100% sure...Nice job thanks
also @ 13:24 on later models V70 (the one with the new generation engines, B5244s2 for instance) the three small holes in the clutch are threaded so you can put three high strength (12.9) M5 (allen) bolts in there to press the clutch off by turning them in one by one.
Hi Robert. My name is Pedro Luis, I'm from Portugal and I have a Volvo V70 T5 PII from 2000 (2000-2004 model). My AC, once turned ON, it works for 4/5 minutes and after that (3 or 4 compression cycles), the compressor stops and never come on again. I need turn the switch OFF for some time (5/10minutes) and than turn it ON again. So will work for more 4/5minutes. But not always behave as that. From what I can understand, it happens just if the extrerior temperature is upper of 22-24ºC (for example, in hot sun day); If the exterior temparature are below that (at the fresh night on same hot day), the AC works fine - non stop. I put the car on a Bosch Car Service, they made the electronic diagnostic and the computer show the 001B error (Lower switch. ID missing), and the 001C error (Lower switch. Faulty ID). Do you think it could be solved as this video? I suppose the zip ties are a temporary repair. The definitive repair, should be the clutch replace, or it could be adjusted? Best Regards, PLuis.
+Pedro Luís I saw the gap: 1,25mm !!!... I have work to do. But do you think it is related with the external temperature. Please remember, it stops just above of 22/24ºC. Below that I have non-stop AC (a normal situation). Thanks.
12:21 if the belt is still on there and the compressor is cold, you might be able to engage it bij putting 12 V on the coil to block the pulley together with the clutch! i managed to get the bolt out this way with a 10 mm ratchet ring spanner with a slightly protruding socket. it did need some leverage from a tyre iron on the subframe ;)
Hello Robert, thank you very much for your wonderful videos. Could you please tell me how to check the air condition in winter when it's cold. Thank you in advance. Best wishes from Germany. Regards Gernot
Long term solution? How long will the zip-ties work? All the heat.. and stuff.. im sure the plastic will wear down and snap when time is on. I give it a year. I want a permanent fix. Without replacing the clutch.
Hey Robert, so last summer I did your zip tie trick and the compressor started working for me. The A/C seemed to work pretty well. Now that I've been running the A/C more, I notice it will stay on a good amount of time and be nice and cool, then it will suddenly kick off. I'm noticing a moisture-like smell through the vents. Could this be the evaporator going out? It was apparently changed at 37,000 miles, which was way before I bought the car. If I turn off the A/C and let it sit for a bit, it will turn on again and blow cold air. It could also be the compressor gap needs fixing again too. Any thoughts?
BTW, 2005 Volvo s60 2.5T AWD AC Compressor Bypass Belt: If you're stuck with a seized AC compressor & want to bypass it with a shorter belt a $15 Bando 6PK1300 belt or equivalent* gets you back on the road in a few minutes. No need to remove your seized or noisy, about-to-seize AC clutch/compressor or waste time & $ on a Compressor Bypass Pulley so this is a good belt to keep as a spare for an emergency. This is a 20mm/13/16" wide x 1300mm/51.18" long, single-sided, 6 rib, micro-groove belt so the flat back runs over the idler/tensioner pulley. To install, position the power steering fluid reservoir back out of the way, get the belt in the grooves of the crankshaft & alternator pulleys & over the idler pulley (a 2-3' stick/rod can help position belt) then rotate/stretch belt by hand onto the power steering pulley or loosen tensioner with torx tool. Not sure which other models this belt will fit but it sure works well on a 2005 Volvo s60 2.5T AWD. *BANDO 6PK1300 interchanges with: ACDELCO 6K512 CONTITECH PK060512 GATES K060512 GOODYEAR 4060512 NAPA 25-060512 NAPA 6PK1300
Robert, you have saved me twice. My a/c is blowing, but a hose, black, about 1", is hanging down under the car. Could that be something that just came undone?? 2004 C70
Hey Robert, my 1998 S70 recently "died' on me. I drove 3 hours relatively fine and once I got home and put the car in reverse to park, it shut out on me.I tried starting it back up, and the engine would crank but not turn over. I let it cool down and started it up later that day wherein I noticed white smoke coming from under the hood and the car began to knock/run funny so I shut it off. There was still coolant in the car. I noticed that my serpentine belt was popped and my pulley on the AC compressor wasn't moving. I intend on buying a new serpentine belt and compressor; is this a common issue or an issue you've had? A day later, I started it again with the serpentine belt off just to check if the engine itself seems fine and it cranked up, but I shut it off quickly. Is this a common issue or an issue you've had? Do you recommend me replacing anything else while I'm at it?
My 1994 850 nearly dies when the compressor kicks on. It was low on freon when I bought it so I serviced it but it must have a leak because now the compressor will cycle after a few minutes and each time it kicks on my engine rpm goes down to like 4-500 and sometimes it kills it. Curious what you think I should look at for that (grounds? Compressor clutch?). Thanks Robert always appreciate the help!
thanks to your blower motor replacement video, i replaced my blower and now it is working. but the AC is still not. i had something replaced about 4 years ago, i think it was the compressor. it looks newer than other things in the area. i thought i had some other leak, so i got some dye last year but the gauge was in the green before i added the die. i still added it, i guess because i had opened it, but i never bothered looking for a leak. after the blower failed about a year ago, the AC would not work (with just the vent open and air coming through, as i recall) anyhow i expected the AC to work with the new and functioning blower. but nothing happened. i forgot to check if the clutch was cycling the AC on and off, so i thought the clutch was the problem, i just check that and it cycles on and off. i am guessing 2 or 3 seconds on and 3 or 4 seconds off. ambient air is over 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but after 5 minutes, still not cold air is coming into the car. any thoughts, anyone? thanks for the really good videos. i am going to be away from my computer for an hour, at least
@@RobertDIY i have a 1998 V 70 Volvo. i will check refrigerant, but the last time i checked it was OK and it wasn't working. i was thinking it might be something to do with the controls not telling it to turn on cold, because the clutch was cycling on and off too quickly, i thought. thanks for answering, i'll check the blend door, thank for your help. i really appreciate it
@@RobertDIY the OEM thermometer that displays the outside temp on the dashboard stopped woking about a year ago, after the cabin blower broke. i have climate control that sets the temp using the AC and heater. is there a chance that the broken thermometer is affecting the AC control? i noticed that the car computer (ECM?) can be a cause of the AC not working, is this correct? but the lights on the climate control blink orange a few times when the car starts and then they display a green light. when the thermometer first started malfunctioning, it cycled through displaying the temperatures from very cold, perhaps -40 to very hot, perhaps 140 degrees Fahrenheit. it did this for a month or 2 and then stopped displaying any temp. i didn't read you reply carefully, the AC is not blowing hot, as in, air from the heater 'hot'. i've run the AC after the car was running 10 minutes, so it was warmed up enough to make heat.
Hi Robert and thanks again for your priceless videos. My clutch is not moving at all, with or without the broomstick. The motor is running and the AC is turned ON. Can you give me any ideas what the problem might be?
Hey Robert, my volvo's clutch had been having this problem off and on for a while. However, just recently I noticed that not it just stopped blowing air even though I can hear the clutch engaging and disengaging. Also, what has been happening more frequently is the two lights (for A/C and re-circulation) will continuously blink synchronously. Do you happen to have any idea what this could mean? Thanks in advanced, AC systems are such a pain!
I wish that I watched your video before I went out there and bent my clutch trying to get it off. Now I think I've ruined it. Plus I never did get it off. Thanks for making this video
Thank you Robert for this video. I bought a 2006 cross country last night at the auction and the AC is not working. Other than that everything on the car is perfect I only paid $1000 for it and it runs and drives very well so I'm very very happy but definitely want to get the AC going in this heat. I noticed that the compressor never comes on at all it could just be completely out of Freon or it could be this clutch issue you speak of. I'm going to try your trick and see what happens so thanks again and I'll let you know what happens
Robert DIY thanks for your reply Robert. I tried broom trick and it did not work. I will add freon and hope the evaporator is not bad. CEL is on too which scared every bidder away but it was running perfect. I discovered gas cap is missing. Duh. I will have a video of my new buy on my channel soon. Keep up the great vids!
here is what you need to know, from the last 1/3 of the video: You cannot likely service the clutch without 'dropping the compressor.' Robert shows how to remove a couple mount screws to do this. THEN, GO BORROW THE AC CLUTCH TOOLS from the auto parts store. Remarkably, Robert got the clutch off with a bent screwdriver or two. The tool will come with a holder to ease 'breaking loose the small cap screw that holds the clutch on. It will also have the puller to get it off the shaft. Where to get proper shims.....let us know if you know where....I have made the puller from a piece of bolt or all thread, drilled and tapped a hole in the middle to use a jack screw, etc....but I suspect there are various sizes of threads nowadays.....
My 96 850R wagon and my 05 V50 wagon both had that clutch gap issue. If you're driving in the rain and the a/c starts blowing warm wet air, you'd better hope you can pull over before the windows become hopelessly fogged. If it happens at night, forget it!
Did u go under the car when u were talking off the compressor clutch because I need to replace my 96 960 Volvo clutch compressor all together so I'm needing step by step to take it off to put on a new one
Robert, I am working on a compressor like the one you are working on the video, it is on a mazda 6 v6 engine 2004. I don't want disconnect the lines, but I do not have enough room for work. I have a question: the three holes on the clutch, are for use an extractor? I do not really room for use the screwdrivers, like you did......
Carlos Caraveo and... The screwdriver was a bad plan of action. You may be able to pull the compressor out without disconnecting the freon lines. If not, you'll have to pull it and breach the system.
Thanks for the information. I have the problem of the clutch disengaging upon heavy acceleration but not engaging again afterwards. Couldn't figure it out. And also my car is a 2011 S40 but still have the same issue. Go figure.
Instead of wedging something in between the clutch and the puuley what I did was: -take the AC clutch relay out of its socket -analyse the diagram painted on the relay -stick a paperclip into the right socket ports. This way, the clutch remained engaged and I could have undone the bolt holding it. Oly I did not do that because there was not enough space for my socket wrench. But it stopped the clutch from turning as I put the zip-ties on. Oh yeah, second generation V70 has the exact same clutch so these methods work there as well.
Is it possible for the A/c clutch malfunction cause a "random misfires" code? I had my A/c on and was getting onto the highway and hit the gas to match the speed and everything seemed fine when I got home. I had to leave like 5 minutes later and upon that start up I got the random misfires code. I have a new fuel pressure sensor and I know my fuel pump works. I originally thought my battery was going bad but then I found out the clutch sticks. do you thing that could cause the random misfires. I should add.. Once i disconnected and reconnected the battery the issue went away. that is what made me believe the battery is bad lol. Thank you for your time and videos 🙏
What year is your car? When the system blinks 15 or so times when you turn it on, it is telling you that it has detected a fault in the system. Is the fan working at all? Do you have MCC or ECC?
Hello again Robert, I have the volvo 2004 s40,my I going to try to fix my clutch problem but its really hard because I dont have to much room in there , what do you do to do ??Like always THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Hi Robert, when I manually engage the clutch it makes a skratching skreetching sound and then start to spark and smoke. Is there bearings that could be worn or do I have to replace the whole compressor? Thanks for your videas they are very helpful.
If it were me, I'd replace it with a used one from a junk yard. Have the freon that is in the system captured by the shop that you would have the replacement compressor serviced at.
You can use the 3 holes and put in M5x25 bolts, then you can use a screwdriver or something to hold it. Then you can break the center bolt. After that use the 3 bolts and screw them all the way in to push off the clutch.
Robert, I have a 2006 S60 and the air conditioner compressor goes on for a couple (3) seconds and switchs off. So the car never gets cool. I thought it was Low on R134 so I bought a can with a gauge and put too much in and had to let some out to get it in the range that the gauge said was Good. Now the compressor just goes on and off. I don't know if it is the shims on the shaft or what?? any ideas? And thanks for all your help. PS. My 2012 S60 had an oil consumption issue I emailed you about and now Volvo is going to replace the piston rings on it, it was still under warranty.
Yes I do believe that is the path I am going down, finding a good AC guy that can tackle it. And my girls 2012 oil light went on and I put 5 qts in and volvo deal topped it off and said she didn't have to come back till the light goes on. So she drove 1200 miles and used (2) two quarts brought it back to the dealership. Then she drove about 1000 miles and Volvo topped it off with 1.25 quarts. So I called VCNA and provided the info and they gave me a case. At the end of July she brought it in and got a loner, the next day they said come pick it up and they said they needed a few weeks to gather up the parts, and VCNA told them to replace the piston rings. So at the end of August they are going to need about a week to fix it. The car is Certified Pre Owned so all of this is on Volvos Dime. Which is what I like to hear. My 06 S60 never uses any oil and it got 117K on it.
A properly built Volvo engine should use no to very little oil, when the Volvo just rolls off the factory tire may be the first 1000 kilometers of oil consumption occurs, so it is good after the first 3000 to 5000 kilometers a good new fresh put oil in, I used for my Volvo's always the oil of Shell Helix Ultra 0w40, for the gasoline engines of Volvo and the diesel (D5) engines of Volvo, this turned out to be a perfect oil, in the gasoline engines after an oil change After about 20000 kilometers of driving in the Netherlands, the old oil even ran out of honey so clean it still seemed .., in between refilling was never necessary, have this gasoline Volvo at the time of a Volvo dealer bought with a mileage of just under 30000 kilometers , the car was really like new at purchase and only 2 years old. Was a Volvo S40 automatic transmission from year 2002 petrol engine, the diesel Volvo was an S60 with the D5 diesel engine, what a great fine and powerful engine was this, manual, drive fine, however, the dual-mass car wheel with mileage 230000 kilometers with some sounds with it Fortunately, I still had a guarantee from Volvo, super! Volvo has placed a new dual mass flywheel and a new complete clutch set in my Volvo S60, after this I have never had a problem with this car. In my experience and opinion makes Volvo super good reliable and very durable cars, many car manufacturer can still learn from this.
Dear Robert, thank you so much for this info. Today i fixed my '97 850 Estate's A/C compressor thanks to this video. I used zip tie method and it succeed very well. I have a question about the ECC. Is it possible to reset this system? When i select an air flow section (for example to head or to windshield) i can hear the mini motors' voice, they are working but the direction of the air flow is not changing. Every time when i turn the ignition on, the ecc mini motors are working inside of the dashboard, i can hear it very well but when i select a section, not is changing. Could you please advise about this problem? Thank you in advance and the best regards from Turkey!
You will need the system/unit reset. Codes cleared. It could also be a bad motor, teeth in it broken. It can be moving but not opening the door. I have also seen the shaft that moves the door flap broken/cracked at the blend door motor. You can pull the motor and if the shaft is broken, you can put a metal sleeve or zip tie on it to keep it closed which will allow the function for the motor to move the door.
@@RobertDIY thank you for your answer. My Volvo 850 has siemens fenix ecu and it's almost impossible to find a device to read and erase DTCs in my country. Is it possible to make an hard reset?
What years of 850/S70 had that lower-front bumper trim with the foglights on the lower corners? I have a 94 turbo and looking for stock-appearance foglights.
Hello Robert, thanks for all the Great Video's. Could I ask you about my 1998 Volvo S70, The AC comes on & then shuts off intermittently? Thanks again!
Hey Robert. This video is so helpful, once again. I would just like some clarification though. My clutch is not engaging. when I hook up a hose to the low pressure port, it reads around 40 psi, which I have read is normal for a working system. But since the clutch is not engaging, I'm not sure if that reading would be accurate. So does this mean it does not need refrigerant and the problem is with the clutch? I also know that there is a safety switch that wont engage the clutch if the system is low. So is that reading accurate? I plan to measure the gap tomorrow. Thanks again!
Usually the clutch will engauge when cold if the system is charged properly. So, I usually toss a can in just in case it's low. If it doesn't engauge after 1 can, you can explore other issues.
Robert DIY so adding a can right now won't damage it? I also checked the gap and it looks to be a little bigger than the limit. I could swear that the ac was working when I bought the car a couple months ago. Thanks for the advice
Most of these cars have a leaking evaporator. So, it may have been working but low. Now it's to low to work. Adding a can may damage the system but, really, it isn't working now...
Hi Robert, I just got my timing belt changed and when i got car back there was no power to the AC compressor. Freon pressure is fine. Any ideas on what the issue could be?
Hi Robert cool video. My 1998 V70 recently had many items replaced by the prior owner including the compressor and other ac parts. the ac works perfectly now, but it seems like even when the fan is turned to "0" there is still refrigerated air coming out of the vents. even if I just push the ac button off and the fan is on, ice cold air comes out. now, I know you have a lot of people who's ac won't turn on; mine doesn't seem to want to turn off! can you offer any insight?
Hi Robert, I was trying to do some fault finding on the 1990 Volvo 240, as the air cond isnt working at the moment, i have been told that the TX valve might be blocked but when you turn on the air conditioner you can hear the revs to up a bit but no engaging click from the compressor, would there be a way i could know for sure which part could have failed????? thank you and have a Happy New Year 2018
HI Robert, I'm starting to have some bearing noise coming from the A/C compressor. Rather than disconnect everything to take out the compressor, is there a way to just remove the clutch in the car and change the bearing? Have you tried to replace the A/C bearing in a Volvo 850 turbo? It would sure make the job much easier if I didn't have to evacuate and recharge the system. Thanks, Paul from NJ. Great to see you back again cranking out tutorials.
Hey Robert have a question for you. When I'm driving my car I have noticed that my air will shut off for about two seconds then come back on then a few moments later it's doing the same thing.. One time my air even completely shut off and started making a loud buzz noise. So I Turned off my air then I turned it back on it was fine.. But still continued to shut off here and there for a few seconds then comes back on.. Any idea what it could be? Thanks
Robert DIY No, I want to change my ac compressor and dryer, because its broken (green fluid out of the ac compressor). I‘m searching how to remove the compressor and the dryer. Heared of droping the subframe, but that is not easy with jack stands. Better to remove powersteerin pump and generator from the top?
Robert DIY So my question ist, how to remove the ac comressor the easiest way? From the bottm (lower the subframe?) Or from above and remove power steering pump and generator?
i think i already thanked you for this tip. it saved me over $1000. i have a problem now where my 2004 v70 with manual trans sometimes won't start, i sat there for an hour and it would not crank. the dash lights went on and when i turned the key all the wan, the headlights went out but it still did not crank. i also noted that the solenoid did not get power. when i had the car towed to the shop it started! the could not troubleshoot it because everything worked. the car now works; but in a few days it will happen again.; then that's another tow. i think it is the clutch safety switch. do they go flackey? do you have any ideas? i had this problem a few months ago & changed the clutch pedal sensor, ignition switch & the starter relay and it worked until now. thx
hi Robert, My 97 Volvo 850 na aircon compresser rumbles and is noisy when air is turned on when off it is quiet. Does that mean compressed is bad. Thank You Billy
Hi Robert, I did this today to my V70 (1999 - MK1) T5, and the clutch engaged erratically and spun for a bit, but then would stop. Also, there were a lot of metal scraping noises as it tried to engage. Basically it would spin for a bit, but then stop, and then try a little bit to spin some more, and ended up not spinning anymore, just like it had been before. I hadn't serviced the aircon for some years by the way, because it didn't work. So now, is it possible that having done the "shim" repair with cable ties, it might be getting the aircon regassed and hopefully they lubricate it as well, or do you think from what I've described that the compressor might be seized or broken? Thanks for your help, and apologies if this has already been answered here before.
Hi Robert, thanks for your reply. No, I suspect it hasn't any. It was last working a number of years ago, and the last time I had it regassed it didn't last very long. So I was hoping that the cable tie fix might be the solution. I guess if there's no refrigerant in the system, then it won't run, in order to prevent damage. I was thinking of getting it regassed and serviced, now that I've put the cable tie shims in. I put 6 in by the way, one on each side of the metal ring, not 3 like you did. Wonder if I've overdone it!? They are medium cable ties by the way, I didn't measure the gap though. Thanks again for your help.
Robert, Nice video, congrats. I recently changed my compressor with a rebuild that at first worked fine for a bit and started cycling while putting refrigerant in it, it even started cooling for a bit too. However after a little while, every time the AC compressor engaged I could see engine dying for a bit and the cooling fan stopping, did it several times until the engine died completely. After that I am not able to get my AC running, when I switch it on it does not engage and the Cooling fan stops and I get a DTC Code for a bad circuit on the Cooling Fan speed sensor. This is a F150 FX4 2007 BTW. Any ideas what to do? Thanks
Robert DIY : Robert, Thanks. However I did read one of your comments saying that both the fan coil and AC clutch are related somehow through a relay and that relay is in the Fan Coil "Scrod". Excuse my ingnorance but I dont know what the Scrod is other than a fish. Can you explain that a bit more for me. I believe that can lead me to the solution of my problem. Thanks again!
Leo Mena If the AC compressor is causing the engine to bog down or shut off, it is locking up the serpentine (or fan) belt. When the AC is turned on, it is suppose to turn the fan on. The scrod is the plastic housing under the hood that things are attached to.
Hi Robert - It almost looks as if I could do this job without removing the compressor/evacuating the system - is this correct? Just removing the pass wheel, inner fender, etc? How about leaving the serpentine belt on? This job might not be much harder than using the zip ties actually. Am I correct?
so my clutch seems really stuck and hard to take off. what might be some causes that will prevent the clutch from being removed? could it possibly be melted on?
Hey Robert, recently I had my A/C compressor replaced and now I'm getting a P1308 code. The mechanic didn't complete the system recharge yet, but is it common to get this code because of the A/C?
Hey Robert. Love the videos. I recently bought a 2000 Volvo V70. Has about 130000 miles on it now. Love the car but the AC is doing something weird. Most of the time it works fine and blows cold when the car is at high and low speeds. But occasionally I will be driving and it will stop blowing cold. I turn the AC back off wait a minute and then turn it back on and it works fine. Also sometimes the AC makes a low hum growling noise when the blower is at a low setting. I already had my mechanic charge the AC system and that didn't work. The AC evaporator core was replaced back in 2006 at 85000 miles so I'm hoping and praying that I won't have to replace again now. I'm supposed to go back to my mechanic in a few days and he was going to put some freon into it. Do you think this kind of issue I'm having is the compressor clutch?
Hello Robert, I was trying to make a comment on the video where you put zip ties to the compressor to make it engage. I tried your trick and it seems to engage and doesnt click on and off after a short period as it did before. I also tried switching relay with something else to make sure that one was ok. When I initally start the car after leaving it over night it looks like the Ac is working. After the car gets warmed up so does the AC. The lines to the compressor also shows alot of condensation accumulating. Do you have any leads on this issue if no other variables are known? Volvo 2.5T 04.
Hello robert, i got a little question that im sure you will be able to answer. The airconditioner button is on, the belt pulley turns but the clutch does not. I tried the broom stick trick but it also wont make it turn. I measured the space between. 0.5mm fits 0.6 does not, what can be the problem?
In the Netherlands its not allowed to fill the ac yourself because of the toxic gasses. But i menaged to order a r134a kit from germany. Will report back here if i fixed the problem!
Hi Robert, I have a specific question for you. I kept having dead battery problems. Replaced voltage regulator and two batteries. Found out I had a parasitic drain coming from the climate control (my air conditioner). I pulled the fuse 2 months ago and things have been fine. Now that it is warming up, I'm trying to figure out how to get this back to working. If i plug the fuse back in the a/c works and blows cold for about 5 minutes then it stops working and starts hissing pretty loud. I shut the car off and then pull the fuse which makes a loud click sound from the compressor. Do you think this is a relay problem? Any ideas for what I can do to fix it. The compressor is working which is hopeful but I don't know what to do to keep it working and not draining my battery. The hissing concerns me the most.
Measured my clutch gap today.. somewhat around 0.75mm. Depend on how deep in you stick it and how much i push it in. Had one shim inside. 1.35mm. Without that my clutch plate was stuck permanent on the compressor. Could not spinn it freely. Started car and compressor went on. Blowing cold air. But cant drive around with compressor permantly on. Will damage it. In my case either the gap is to big or the magnetic ring is defect or something else with the electrical system.. or a pressure sensor. Gap on my car model should be 0.4-0.8mm. So i think i need to get a shim-kit first and try to lower the gap to near 0.4. Is this so sensitive? if you have 0.4 or 0.7. any diagnostic tips for me? what to try?
How did you get the belt off the compressor before removing the clutch? Does it come right off with a screwdriver or did you have a special tool for it?
I have a 1994 volvo 850 and when I turn my a/c on it makes a ticking noise like the motor on the compressor isn't working or is stuck. What are your best solutions to solve this problem, do I need to replace the whole compressor or is it having something to do with the clutch. I am guessing that the compressor is bad because it was ticking like the motor was stuck so I pulled the fuse for the compressor and it quit, let me know ASAP thanks, Nate
Hey Robert! I have a Volvo S70, and my compressor just engages and jams every few seconds, and the Is not giving any cold air. Any tips will be appreciated Thanks. Where I live almost no one fixes Volvos
Do you have any idea why radiator fan and a/c compressor work together? I mean my A/C died with my engine cooling fan also.. do they work thru same relay or something?
Yes they work together. The fan comes on with the AC to help make sure the motor is cool. The AC puts an additional load on the motor. The relay is on the fan scrod.
Very informative video! I keep coming back. :-) A question (or scenario) - what is your piece of advice: I did a leak test on my AC-system and they told me it was the accumulator dryer. I changed it (which took me some time) and went back to get the car filled up (filling it up on your own is illegal in Sweden) :-D Then the cooling fan did not start. Checked it up and it turned out the an was broken. So, changed the fan and it got swooshing real nice, AND the AC turned on and went beautifully! I had a cool and nice car for about six hours and then it deteriorated. A couple of days later the AC is not working at all. It made me quite sad after all the work I had put in. I am guessing that the problem might be the compressor because I have seen some traces of leakage and it made some strange noises before it stopped working. When it started to deteriorate I heard a quite silent beeping sound once in a while. Do you think it could be the clutch or has the freon just leaked out of the system? Thanks! /Martin
What's the size of the central bolt? It dropped out of my car during a ride and clutch fell off. I was able to recover the clutch but couldn't find the bolt to reinstall :(
Never tap a screwdriver under the clutch! Its ment to be pushed off with 3 m5x40 bolts in the treaded holes on front of the clutch. Just did mine on my 1995 850, removed a spacer ring and working ac again.
I have a 2012 S80 Volvo. I noticed yesterday that it did not blow cold air when I initially turned on the AC. But as I droved it got very cold. However, when I'm at a stop light it stops blowing cold air and then once I start moving again the air comes back on and blows cool. It does not stop blowing air. Anyone have any ideas?
Just wondering, my compressor clutch needs new bearings, can i just take of the front of the compressor, clutch and all and put it back on while it is still on the car without no disaster happening? Thanks!
Okay Robert I have a question. I own a 2000 S70 GLT SE. The body has 195k and the engine has 70k. When I first start the car the AC works perfectly. However if I give it 1/2-Full Throttle the AC stops working and just blows hot air. This also happens after driving the car for 30 minutes. Any ideas on what it might be?
Aaron Ashley The clutch being described in this video is not the transmission clutch. I think that's where the confusion is. The compressor has it's own clutch. You can see it in the video, you might also check out matt's volvo site for helpful fixes to this problem. Robert's video gives a good visual reference to where compressor clutch problems occur and how to address them. Based on the research I've recently done it sounds like it IS a problem with the gap in the compressor clutch, and this vid definitely addresses that. I would suggest that you check the psi before spending any big money or start tinkering with the compressor clutch as the compressor is a touchy component that could incur further damage if tampered with. You may find that the refrigerant may need to be recharged which is an extremely quick and easy fix. The best approach with DIY fixes is to identify the problem and work your away up from the bottom or start, in your case you're on the right track.
Hey Robert, my A/C compressor was working perfect till today. It used to engage and disengage during it was on. I don't remember exactly but every 30 secs or 1 mini it used to go on and off. But today, it engaged but never off and started to blow warm, humid air into cabin. when I turn off and restart the car, it blows cold but after 5 minutes use, again warm and humid air and compressor still working. Could you pls advise the issue and how to fix? Thanks in advance.
Hi again. I have made some trials at evening time. 1) a/c on, 28 degrees Celsius-hot air, fan speed low/medium. Compressor engaging on and off in short periods. 2) 22 degrees, fan speed low/medium. Compressor engages on and off but periods are now longer. Cooling not bad but not freezing. 3) 16 - lowest degree, fan speed low/medium. Compressor engages on and off but periods are more longer. Cooling as above. 4) 16 degrees, fan speed maximum. Compressor engages on and off but now periods are much longer. Cooling as above. I understand that compressor is working fine. Maybe I need to change the cooling gas. This process I did took about 15 minutes but I have not observed any water draining to floor. Is this normal? Do you think the general problem is the cooling gas? Thanks in advance.
Robert DIY actually, as I explained above, I don't think the problem is clutch because it is engaging and disengaging as soon as it pumps cold air inside. In your videos, if the clutch gap is big, compressor doesn't engage but mine does. I will full the gas in it and see what the outcome will be. Thanks for your support. I learned so much from your videos 👍👍
Low freon will do that. If there is not enough freon in the system, the compressor will turn on, it will compress what is there, then it will turn off when the pressure drops too low. That small amount that was compressed, will push a small amount of freon through the system until there is again just a small amount to compress again. Then, it will turn off again.
Auntie Of13 If the system is charged and it kicks on, then fails to stay on, it is likely a compressor issue. There is a way to jump the clutch and make it engage but I'm not real sure how to do that. Bottom line is, you should be able to visit a AC shop that works on AC and alternators daily. They usually can tell you what the problem is without much or any charge. General mechanics that do oil changes, tires, etc., will usually not want to take the time to properly trouble shoot the issue.
Hey Robert its me again, i tried filling my system but the clutch wouldn't catch. I tried overfilling it a little and then the clutch catched on and off repeatedly. So im sure the clutch is okay. I let gass out to lower the pressure again but it won't stay on
Your description at 3:41 is spot on! I’m amazed how perfectly your explained what happens to my 2012 Volvo C30 T5. I didn’t have any idea why my ac was freezing one moment and then hot after accelerating, sometimes I could get it to be cold by turning off the ac and then turning it on again, other times I had to restart the car before it blew cold again. Thank you for helping me figure out it is the ac compressor clutch and not a vacuum leak, or electrical issue, or low freon!
Glad it helped!
Thank you Robert! Another great video!
I had a 1mm gap on the AC Compressor Clutch and the AC stopped working on long trips, I always had to restart the car for the AC to come back again. Well, I showed your zip tie magic to my mechanic, he paused, looked at me, smile and said, "that's a good idea, let's do it!" And now there's no more stopping on the AC, working all the way perfectly! Hehe! Thank you once again, Robert!
Awesome, thanks for watching.
Growing up we were so poor, we had to dream up all manner of work-arounds to keep our cars on the road because money was hard to come by. When I saw you explaining how you used zip ties as spacers to avoid having to pull the clutch the genius was apparent - necessity as they say is the mother (father) of invention! I'm impressed and subscribed! My brand new 2011 C70 T5 has been doing exactly what you described and I'm so glad I happened upon this video and that you had already found a quick-fix as well as the correct fix. Sure saves me a lot of time and $$$, oh wait, let me put that in Volvo terms - $$$$$$$$$$!
You should compile all these fixes in a single manual and offer it for sale!
LOL, I wish I could take credit for that however, most of these incredible fixes are learned from VolvoForums.com, MatthewsVolvoSite.com and others who have fixed these "built broke" vehicles over the years. I just have the grace to translate them into video and post them for the world to enjoy.
Thanks for watching.
@@RobertDIY Robert , you're too humble
Old video but truly helped me this weekend with a 1600 mile trip and temp already up in 90-100 degrees. I had remembered watching this video a Few years back, well the a/c would come on and turn off in a few secs then never come back on, I remembered the slip tie method and at a hwy rest stop, took me 10 minutes and 6 zip ties tried it and it worked great! A\C was ice cold all the way to FL. Thanks for a great tip that helped me and 3 kids stay comfortable on a 2 day trip.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for putting this video on here Robert, I used the zip ties option on my 850 a couple of years ago and the air conditioning is still working perfectly..... 👍🏼
Awesome!
Thanks again Robert for a great video. My A/C just stopped working. The clutch/compressor has gone out and needs to be replaced. I'm off to the junk yard to see if I can find a used one. Your videos help me to understand how to diagnose & fix issues that come up. I have the desire to learn all that I can about my 1993 Volvo wagon and keep it on the road. Currently it has 301,365 miles and still going strong. Please keep the great videos coming. : )
Thanks for watching.
Hey Robert DIY,
I put in this hack and it works great. I first thought the tie wraps would be too much and the clutch would always be engaged, but the clutch works just like it should. No more a/c cutting out after a while anymore. Even on our Connecticut 90 degree days. Thanks!
+wooster74 good deal.
Great video! I had the same problem with the a/c. I went to Home Depot bought one foot of 14 gauge solid copper wire. I cut three pieces, 2 inches each. I used two hammers to flatten them, one as an anvil. I bent one end of the flattened shim slightly, about ¼ inch from the end. I couldn’t get to the clutch from the top. I went underneath. I removed the plastic cover under the grill. One 10mm bolt on the end dropped the cover and I had great access to the clutch. I followed your steps and fixed it! Thanks!! I have a 2002 V70 wagon with 205,000 miles.
Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic, Robert, thanks for the detailed explanation, the tie wrap trick helped us well on our holiday with 105F temperatures!
+John Straatman good deal.
I did know that the clutch gap was way to big in my 940, 1.2mm and gathered info about how to disassemble the unit to remove spacers.
Then i saw this video on Roberts channel which i love.
This was a quick fix! Thank you! My AC runs without turning off after a couple of minutes :-)
BTW; I happily drive a 940 with room to spare around the AC pump, didn't have to take anything loose, just a 10 minute fiddling with some zip ties.
I managed to narrow the clutch gap from 1.2mm to about 0.55mm (still just out of spec but working great)
Awesome!
Robert, thank you for the very detailed and highly useful video. You just saved me a good $1,200 in parts and labor to make a simple clutch adjustment instead of replacing a whole compressor. Well done!
Michael Montgomery Glad it helped. I "fixed" two of those today.
Thank you Robert
I put in the wire ties as you described and it made me look like I knew what I was doing. It ended up taking me less than an hour and it worked GREAT! Couldn't be more pleased. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Roland
Nice, thanks for watching.
I have no idea how much money you've saved me through the years Man. Thanks for all you do\
Very good, that's the plan.
Hey Robert. My wife has an old V70 with the same problem. I was going to pull the compressor and yank out a shim but I happened across your video and I figured I would try it. I needed to make up .3mm 'cause I had .6. I had some small zip ties that were .3mm and it took a little while but I got them in and the AC works great. Quick cheap fix for now. Now we see how long they last! Thanks so much for the tip!
Use medium size ties and they will flatten out a little.
I have some the next size up. They are.5mm thick. I've driven the car for a few hours and it's working great so far. If these flatten out and it starts cutting out again, I'll throw in the bigger ones. It was not a bad job. I pulled the wheel and the inner fender and was able to get at the clutch without too much trouble. Now that I've done it once, the next time will be easy! Thanks again.
What year model car is it? On the P80 cars, I can do it in 5 minutes now. Not sure if I drop the air guide or not. lol It should work at least 6 months.
It's an '02. I was able to peal the inner fender back just enough to get my hands in there. I really should remove a shim but I have to drop the compressor to get my puller on the clutch. We'll see how long it lasts. If it gets through the Summer I will be very, very happy!
Thank you Robert for this great video. It really helped me to fix my A/C, clutch gap was too big. Tell you what buddy, when I was on my driveway, hood up and broomstick in engine compartment my neighbour came to wonder what i was up to.. I said "I´m starting my ac compressor" he said with laugh:"well I usually press the button on my dash" :D Well thanks anyway, this isn´t first time when i´m using your videos to repair my Volvo!:)
LOL, I got the same response from one of my neighbors. The best one is when you are standing at the fuel filler with a hose trying to listen for the fuel pump.
I think it's 0.3 to 0.5 mm, 3mm ~ 1/8" ;-)
Very helpful. I recently replaced my alternator myself but afterwards my a/c stopped working. So now I know what is most likely the problem thanks robert.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for another great trouble shoot vid Robert. I had bought a 98 S70 from my boss that had been sitting on the company property for months it seems. No cold air out of my ac and the clutch was engaging and dis-engaging ever couple of seconds. Checked the psi and it was way low.
I then proceeded with charging the refrigerant and after a few moments the clutch stopped dis-engaging and the psi started to rise. Emptied the can into the system and the psi stabilized at mid 30's, checked the air flow from the vents and sure enough it was frosty. I haven't tested the system while driving so i don't know if there is gap problem with the clutch but i know i'll come back to this video if there is. My guess is that the refrigerant slowly seeped out over time due the car and ac system not being used, kind of like a tire loses air a goes flat if it sits for a long time not being used.
This S70 is my first car and i only paid $1500 for it. Your videos (This one as well as the radiator repair/install) have helped me save almost that much by giving me the confidence to do the repairs myself and i will continue to turn to your DIY Volvo videos (as well as Matt's Volvo Forum) when i encounter problems. I recently joined the Official UK Volvo High Mileage Club at 196,000+ miles and i fully intend on doing what i can to bring my Volvo to the level of reliability that they are known for.
Good to read. The AC systems in these cars often leak freon from the evaporator which is located deep in the dash. As long are you don't have to service more then once every 90 days, I wouldn't worry about it. Have fun and thanks for watching.
Robert, Thank you! I nominate you for the Nobel Prize!!! I fixed my compressor whith them 3 zipties! 👍👍👍😊
Nice rhyme. lol
Outstanding content Robert. Gets me where I need to go on concept. I was stuck back in bread clip world.
Thanks for watching
Excellent video and troubleshooting explanations. You helped me understand my problem and resolution. I have one comment. I would have shown the feeler gauge in the location to measure. The only reason I think I know where to do it is because at the very end of the video you pointed in between the clutch & pulley which I think is where I'm supposed to measure but I am still not 100% sure...Nice job thanks
OK.
also @ 13:24 on later models V70 (the one with the new generation engines, B5244s2 for instance) the three small holes in the clutch are threaded so you can put three high strength (12.9) M5 (allen) bolts in there to press the clutch off by turning them in one by one.
wow, I need to go try that. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Robert. My name is Pedro Luis, I'm from Portugal and I have a Volvo V70 T5 PII from 2000 (2000-2004 model). My AC, once turned ON, it works for 4/5 minutes and after that (3 or 4 compression cycles), the compressor stops and never come on again. I need turn the switch OFF for some time (5/10minutes) and than turn it ON again. So will work for more 4/5minutes. But not always behave as that. From what I can understand, it happens just if the extrerior temperature is upper of 22-24ºC (for example, in hot sun day); If the exterior temparature are below that (at the fresh night on same hot day), the AC works fine - non stop. I put the car on a Bosch Car Service, they made the electronic diagnostic and the computer show the 001B error (Lower switch. ID missing), and the 001C error (Lower switch. Faulty ID). Do you think it could be solved as this video? I suppose the zip ties are a temporary repair. The definitive repair, should be the clutch replace, or it could be adjusted? Best Regards, PLuis.
+Pedro Luís Did you measure the clutch gap? - ua-cam.com/video/P5Q7UQVzV6E/v-deo.html
+Robert DIY No. After see your video, i did not have no time yet for that. I will do that at next weekend. Thanks
+Pedro Luís I saw the gap: 1,25mm !!!... I have work to do. But do you think it is related with the external temperature. Please remember, it stops just above of 22/24ºC. Below that I have non-stop AC (a normal situation). Thanks.
Fix the gap. He warmer they are, the harder it is to engage the clutch.
+Robert DIY I will fix sonnly. I w'll return feedback. Many thanks
Dudes named Robert are usually cool and smart! Lol. Thanks man for all your videos
Thanks for watching
12:21 if the belt is still on there and the compressor is cold, you might be able to engage it bij putting 12 V on the coil to block the pulley together with the clutch! i managed to get the bolt out this way with a 10 mm ratchet ring spanner with a slightly protruding socket. it did need some leverage from a tyre iron on the subframe ;)
thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much! I thought the AC clutch on my S40 was the problem but couldn't convince my mechanic. This helps.
Good deal, thanks for watching.
Hello Robert, thank you very much for your wonderful videos. Could you please tell me how to check the air condition in winter when it's cold. Thank you in advance. Best wishes from Germany. Regards Gernot
Same as summer. It operates the same.
You are the BEST Robert. have learned much from you. Them zip ties on my AC compressor gonna save me lots of money. LOL
+medcenman sure will.
medcenman ...zip ties?! .. Gotta watch all of this! Great vids for sure
Long term solution? How long will the zip-ties work? All the heat.. and stuff.. im sure the plastic will wear down and snap when time is on. I give it a year.
I want a permanent fix. Without replacing the clutch.
Great video Robert!! thank you for all the info and for covering a lot of stuff other people leave out.
You are welcome.
Hey Robert, so last summer I did your zip tie trick and the compressor started working for me. The A/C seemed to work pretty well. Now that I've been running the A/C more, I notice it will stay on a good amount of time and be nice and cool, then it will suddenly kick off. I'm noticing a moisture-like smell through the vents. Could this be the evaporator going out? It was apparently changed at 37,000 miles, which was way before I bought the car. If I turn off the A/C and let it sit for a bit, it will turn on again and blow cold air. It could also be the compressor gap needs fixing again too. Any thoughts?
Max Schmelzer Probably the compressor gap again. Take a close look at it or measure it.
Max Schmelzer Probably the compressor gap again. Take a close look at it or measure it.
BTW, 2005 Volvo s60 2.5T AWD AC Compressor Bypass Belt:
If you're stuck with a seized AC compressor & want to bypass it with a shorter belt a $15 Bando 6PK1300 belt or equivalent* gets you back on the road in a few minutes. No need to remove your seized or noisy, about-to-seize AC clutch/compressor or waste time & $ on a Compressor Bypass Pulley so this is a good belt to keep as a spare for an emergency.
This is a 20mm/13/16" wide x 1300mm/51.18" long, single-sided, 6 rib, micro-groove belt so the flat back runs over the idler/tensioner pulley. To install, position the power steering fluid reservoir back out of the way, get the belt in the grooves of the crankshaft & alternator pulleys & over the idler pulley (a 2-3' stick/rod can help position belt) then rotate/stretch belt by hand onto the power steering pulley or loosen tensioner with torx tool.
Not sure which other models this belt will fit but it sure works well on a 2005 Volvo s60 2.5T AWD.
*BANDO 6PK1300 interchanges with:
ACDELCO 6K512
CONTITECH PK060512
GATES K060512
GOODYEAR 4060512
NAPA 25-060512
NAPA 6PK1300
+Evan Smith thanks for sharing
Robert, you have saved me twice. My a/c is blowing, but a hose, black, about 1", is hanging down under the car. Could that be something that just came undone?? 2004 C70
I have no idea. Send me a picture.
Hey Robert, my 1998 S70 recently "died' on me. I drove 3 hours relatively fine and once I got home and put the car in reverse to park, it shut out on me.I tried starting it back up, and the engine would crank but not turn over. I let it cool down and started it up later that day wherein I noticed white smoke coming from under the hood and the car began to knock/run funny so I shut it off. There was still coolant in the car. I noticed that my serpentine belt was popped and my pulley on the AC compressor wasn't moving. I intend on buying a new serpentine belt and compressor; is this a common issue or an issue you've had?
A day later, I started it again with the serpentine belt off just to check if the engine itself seems fine and it cranked up, but I shut it off quickly.
Is this a common issue or an issue you've had? Do you recommend me replacing anything else while I'm at it?
ua-cam.com/video/ZPVwFXbDdsM/v-deo.html
Hi robert, b gt to shine a light on the area. It is pitch black so hard to see what you are referring to. Thnx for sharing yr knowledge.
Ok
Hey Robert....man ur a life saver wit these s70....I have a 98 s70...the AC compressor only works when I jump it at fuse box...can I leave it that way
I would not recommend that.
My 1994 850 nearly dies when the compressor kicks on. It was low on freon when I bought it so I serviced it but it must have a leak because now the compressor will cycle after a few minutes and each time it kicks on my engine rpm goes down to like 4-500 and sometimes it kills it. Curious what you think I should look at for that (grounds? Compressor clutch?). Thanks Robert always appreciate the help!
Look for a new compressor
@@RobertDIY thanks Robert will do
thanks to your blower motor replacement video, i replaced my blower and now it is working. but the AC is still not. i had something replaced about 4 years ago, i think it was the compressor. it looks newer than other things in the area. i thought i had some other leak, so i got some dye last year but the gauge was in the green before i added the die. i still added it, i guess because i had opened it, but i never bothered looking for a leak. after the blower failed about a year ago, the AC would not work (with just the vent open and air coming through, as i recall) anyhow i expected the AC to work with the new and functioning blower. but nothing happened. i forgot to check if the clutch was cycling the AC on and off, so i thought the clutch was the problem, i just check that and it cycles on and off. i am guessing 2 or 3 seconds on and 3 or 4 seconds off. ambient air is over 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but after 5 minutes, still not cold air is coming into the car. any thoughts, anyone? thanks for the really good videos. i am going to be away from my computer for an hour, at least
Sounds like it may be a little low on refrigerant. If the air is HOT, you could have a bad blend door. I'm assuming that you have a Volvo...
@@RobertDIY i have a 1998 V 70 Volvo. i will check refrigerant, but the last time i checked it was OK and it wasn't working. i was thinking it might be something to do with the controls not telling it to turn on cold, because the clutch was cycling on and off too quickly, i thought. thanks for answering, i'll check the blend door, thank for your help. i really appreciate it
@@RobertDIY the OEM thermometer that displays the outside temp on the dashboard stopped woking about a year ago, after the cabin blower broke. i have climate control that sets the temp using the AC and heater. is there a chance that the broken thermometer is affecting the AC control? i noticed that the car computer (ECM?) can be a cause of the AC not working, is this correct? but the lights on the climate control blink orange a few times when the car starts and then they display a green light. when the thermometer first started malfunctioning, it cycled through displaying the temperatures from very cold, perhaps -40 to very hot, perhaps 140 degrees Fahrenheit. it did this for a month or 2 and then stopped displaying any temp. i didn't read you reply carefully, the AC is not blowing hot, as in, air from the heater 'hot'. i've run the AC after the car was running 10 minutes, so it was warmed up enough to make heat.
Hi Robert and thanks again for your priceless videos.
My clutch is not moving at all, with or without the broomstick. The motor is running and the AC is turned ON.
Can you give me any ideas what the problem might be?
Grétar Aasen Does the system have pressure? Freon? - ua-cam.com/video/kYQnWxyqWyw/v-deo.html
Hey Robert, my volvo's clutch had been having this problem off and on for a while. However, just recently I noticed that not it just stopped blowing air even though I can hear the clutch engaging and disengaging. Also, what has been happening more frequently is the two lights (for A/C and re-circulation) will continuously blink synchronously. Do you happen to have any idea what this could mean? Thanks in advanced, AC systems are such a pain!
I wish that I watched your video before I went out there and bent my clutch trying to get it off. Now I think I've ruined it. Plus I never did get it off. Thanks for making this video
You are welcome.
Thank you Robert for this video. I bought a 2006 cross country last night at the auction and the AC is not working. Other than that everything on the car is perfect I only paid $1000 for it and it runs and drives very well so I'm very very happy but definitely want to get the AC going in this heat. I noticed that the compressor never comes on at all it could just be completely out of Freon or it could be this clutch issue you speak of. I'm going to try your trick and see what happens so thanks again and I'll let you know what happens
+joegolden481 freon.
Robert DIY thanks for your reply Robert. I tried broom trick and it did not work. I will add freon and hope the evaporator is not bad. CEL is on too which scared every bidder away but it was running perfect. I discovered gas cap is missing. Duh. I will have a video of my new buy on my channel soon. Keep up the great vids!
Thanks for sharing.
here is what you need to know, from the last 1/3 of the video: You cannot likely service the clutch without 'dropping the compressor.' Robert shows how to remove a couple mount screws to do this. THEN, GO BORROW THE AC CLUTCH TOOLS from the auto parts store. Remarkably, Robert got the clutch off with a bent screwdriver or two. The tool will come with a holder to ease 'breaking loose the small cap screw that holds the clutch on. It will also have the puller to get it off the shaft. Where to get proper shims.....let us know if you know where....I have made the puller from a piece of bolt or all thread, drilled and tapped a hole in the middle to use a jack screw, etc....but I suspect there are various sizes of threads nowadays.....
Basic washers work for shims.
My 96 850R wagon and my 05 V50 wagon both had that clutch gap issue. If you're driving in the rain and the a/c starts blowing warm wet air, you'd better hope you can pull over before the windows become hopelessly fogged. If it happens at night, forget it!
I agree
Did u go under the car when u were talking off the compressor clutch because I need to replace my 96 960 Volvo clutch compressor all together so I'm needing step by step to take it off to put on a new one
ua-cam.com/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/v-deo.html
Robert, I am working on a compressor like the one you are working on the video, it is on a mazda 6 v6 engine 2004. I don't want disconnect the lines, but I do not have enough room for work. I have a question: the three holes on the clutch, are for use an extractor? I do not really room for use the screwdrivers, like you did......
Carlos Caraveo and... The screwdriver was a bad plan of action. You may be able to pull the compressor out without disconnecting the freon lines. If not, you'll have to pull it and breach the system.
Robert, I used the three threaded holes, put bolts in each, tighten evenly and the clutch goes out. It worked. Thank you.
Very good to read. Thank you for sharing.
Carlos Caraveo junto a la casa de la empleada de la escuela 4 que es a las que no se si te acordás de mi y te lo paso a robertito el la 4x4
Thanks for the information. I have the problem of the clutch disengaging upon heavy acceleration but not engaging again afterwards. Couldn't figure it out. And also my car is a 2011 S40 but still have the same issue. Go figure.
Ouch
Instead of wedging something in between the clutch and the puuley what I did was:
-take the AC clutch relay out of its socket
-analyse the diagram painted on the relay
-stick a paperclip into the right socket ports.
This way, the clutch remained engaged and I could have undone the bolt holding it. Oly I did not do that because there was not enough space for my socket wrench. But it stopped the clutch from turning as I put the zip-ties on.
Oh yeah, second generation V70 has the exact same clutch so these methods work there as well.
Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video - although I don't think I will be trying the broom handle test.
I almost never do. 👍🏾
Is it possible for the A/c clutch malfunction cause a "random misfires" code? I had my A/c on and was getting onto the highway and hit the gas to match the speed and everything seemed fine when I got home. I had to leave like 5 minutes later and upon that start up I got the random misfires code. I have a new fuel pressure sensor and I know my fuel pump works. I originally thought my battery was going bad but then I found out the clutch sticks. do you thing that could cause the random misfires. I should add.. Once i disconnected and reconnected the battery the issue went away. that is what made me believe the battery is bad lol.
Thank you for your time and videos 🙏
ua-cam.com/video/Sg7iFytxfzQ/v-deo.htmlsi=vfY7H3S8xcitxgs4
No
ua-cam.com/video/HM-WdfwKhZQ/v-deo.htmlsi=6VdMEW8VSZoCtVH-
What year is your car? When the system blinks 15 or so times when you turn it on, it is telling you that it has detected a fault in the system. Is the fan working at all? Do you have MCC or ECC?
Robert DIY could u please tell me where is the ac compressor relay,thank you very much and keep making great videos!!!👍🏻
Hello again Robert, I have the volvo 2004 s40,my I going to try to fix my clutch problem but its really hard because I dont have to much room in there , what do you do to do ??Like always THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
David Valdés Hi David, I don't have any experience with working on manual transmissions. :(
David Valdés Hey David, I was confused about your two post. It is tight in the area to fix the ac clutch.
These are clever fix-it tips. Thanks!
+W Donnelly you are welcome.
Hi Robert, when I manually engage the clutch it makes a skratching skreetching sound and then start to spark and smoke. Is there bearings that could be worn or do I have to replace the whole compressor? Thanks for your videas they are very helpful.
If it were me, I'd replace it with a used one from a junk yard. Have the freon that is in the system captured by the shop that you would have the replacement compressor serviced at.
Thanks for the advise
LOL, I'm hoping most will know this is above their pay grade. The zip ties will work for most. Yes, I really needed the laser pointer on this one.
You can use the 3 holes and put in M5x25 bolts, then you can use a screwdriver or something to hold it. Then you can break the center bolt. After that use the 3 bolts and screw them all the way in to push off the clutch.
+Erik Slagboom sweet procedure. I'll pull the clutch like that and take all the credit. 😋
lol go ahead, also if you engage te ac clutch with a wire from te positive battery terminal you can remove the center bolt
Nice. Thanks for giving me some good info.
Robert, I have a 2006 S60 and the air conditioner compressor goes on for a couple (3) seconds and switchs off. So the car never gets cool. I thought it was Low on R134 so I bought a can with a gauge and put too much in and had to let some out to get it in the range that the gauge said was Good. Now the compressor just goes on and off. I don't know if it is the shims on the shaft or what?? any ideas? And thanks for all your help.
PS. My 2012 S60 had an oil consumption issue I emailed you about and now Volvo is going to replace the piston rings on it, it was still under warranty.
Have it serviced and checked by a professional.
Really, how much oil was it using?
Yes I do believe that is the path I am going down, finding a good AC guy that can tackle it. And my girls 2012 oil light went on and I put 5 qts in and volvo deal topped it off and said she didn't have to come back till the light goes on. So she drove 1200 miles and used (2) two quarts brought it back to the dealership. Then she drove about 1000 miles and Volvo topped it off with 1.25 quarts. So I called VCNA and provided the info and they gave me a case. At the end of July she brought it in and got a loner, the next day they said come pick it up and they said they needed a few weeks to gather up the parts, and VCNA told them to replace the piston rings. So at the end of August they are going to need about a week to fix it. The car is Certified Pre Owned so all of this is on Volvos Dime. Which is what I like to hear. My 06 S60 never uses any oil and it got 117K on it.
How did she let it get 5 QUARTS LOW?
A properly built Volvo engine should use no to very little oil, when the Volvo just rolls off the factory tire may be the first 1000 kilometers of oil consumption occurs, so it is good after the first 3000 to 5000 kilometers a good new fresh put oil in, I used for my Volvo's always the oil of Shell Helix Ultra 0w40, for the gasoline engines of Volvo and the diesel (D5) engines of Volvo, this turned out to be a perfect oil, in the gasoline engines after an oil change After about 20000 kilometers of driving in the Netherlands, the old oil even ran out of honey so clean it still seemed .., in between refilling was never necessary, have this gasoline Volvo at the time of a Volvo dealer bought with a mileage of just under 30000 kilometers , the car was really like new at purchase and only 2 years old. Was a Volvo S40 automatic transmission from year 2002 petrol engine, the diesel Volvo was an S60 with the D5 diesel engine, what a great fine and powerful engine was this, manual, drive fine, however, the dual-mass car wheel with mileage 230000 kilometers with some sounds with it Fortunately, I still had a guarantee from Volvo, super! Volvo has placed a new dual mass flywheel and a new complete clutch set in my Volvo S60, after this I have never had a problem with this car. In my experience and opinion makes Volvo super good reliable and very durable cars, many car manufacturer can still learn from this.
Dear Robert, thank you so much for this info. Today i fixed my '97 850 Estate's A/C compressor thanks to this video. I used zip tie method and it succeed very well. I have a question about the ECC. Is it possible to reset this system? When i select an air flow section (for example to head or to windshield) i can hear the mini motors' voice, they are working but the direction of the air flow is not changing. Every time when i turn the ignition on, the ecc mini motors are working inside of the dashboard, i can hear it very well but when i select a section, not is changing. Could you please advise about this problem?
Thank you in advance and the best regards from Turkey!
You will need the system/unit reset. Codes cleared. It could also be a bad motor, teeth in it broken. It can be moving but not opening the door. I have also seen the shaft that moves the door flap broken/cracked at the blend door motor. You can pull the motor and if the shaft is broken, you can put a metal sleeve or zip tie on it to keep it closed which will allow the function for the motor to move the door.
@@RobertDIY thank you for your answer. My Volvo 850 has siemens fenix ecu and it's almost impossible to find a device to read and erase DTCs in my country. Is it possible to make an hard reset?
What years of 850/S70 had that lower-front bumper trim with the foglights on the lower corners? I have a 94 turbo and looking for stock-appearance foglights.
everything looks the same as this front-end trim. Just without the foglights. Or were these cut and installed?
You can cut the holes, lines are on the backside. Also, the 960 lower trim looks real nice on the 850 bumper.
Hello Robert, thanks for all the Great Video's. Could I ask you about my 1998 Volvo S70, The AC comes on & then shuts off intermittently? Thanks again!
Doug Tyree Have you serviced it? - ua-cam.com/video/ReG1uQiMhm8/v-deo.html - ua-cam.com/video/kYQnWxyqWyw/v-deo.html
No, I just bought it.
Hey Robert. This video is so helpful, once again. I would just like some clarification though. My clutch is not engaging. when I hook up a hose to the low pressure port, it reads around 40 psi, which I have read is normal for a working system. But since the clutch is not engaging, I'm not sure if that reading would be accurate. So does this mean it does not need refrigerant and the problem is with the clutch? I also know that there is a safety switch that wont engage the clutch if the system is low. So is that reading accurate? I plan to measure the gap tomorrow. Thanks again!
Usually the clutch will engauge when cold if the system is charged properly. So, I usually toss a can in just in case it's low. If it doesn't engauge after 1 can, you can explore other issues.
Robert DIY so adding a can right now won't damage it? I also checked the gap and it looks to be a little bigger than the limit. I could swear that the ac was working when I bought the car a couple months ago. Thanks for the advice
Most of these cars have a leaking evaporator. So, it may have been working but low. Now it's to low to work.
Adding a can may damage the system but, really, it isn't working now...
Zip ties. I love it, and you, Robert
Thanks, glad it helped. lol
Hi Robert,
I just got my timing belt changed and when i got car back there was no power to the AC compressor.
Freon pressure is fine.
Any ideas on what the issue could be?
Bring it by and I'll check.
Quick question, would the zip tie fix help prevent knocking caused by a bad clutch in the compressor?
No.
Thank you for the reply, is there any chance you know a temporary fix for the knocking?
Get a shorter belt and bypass it.
Cool, thank you, I appreciate you and your willingness to help me out.
Hi Robert cool video. My 1998 V70 recently had many items replaced by the prior owner including the compressor and other ac parts. the ac works perfectly now, but it seems like even when the fan is turned to "0" there is still refrigerated air coming out of the vents. even if I just push the ac button off and the fan is on, ice cold air comes out. now, I know you have a lot of people who's ac won't turn on; mine doesn't seem to want to turn off! can you offer any insight?
sillykidssong Is the compressor running?
sillykidssong No punt intended?
Hi Robert, I was trying to do some fault finding on the 1990 Volvo 240, as the air cond isnt working at the moment, i have been told that the TX valve might be blocked but when you turn on the air conditioner you can hear the revs to up a bit but no engaging click from the compressor, would there be a way i could know for sure which part could have failed?????
thank you and have a Happy New Year 2018
+Alex is the proper amount of freon in Utah?
+Alex is the proper amount of refrigerant in the system?
HI Robert, I'm starting to have some bearing noise coming from the A/C compressor. Rather than disconnect everything to take out the compressor, is there a way to just remove the clutch in the car and change the bearing? Have you tried to replace the A/C bearing in a Volvo 850 turbo? It would sure make the job much easier if I didn't have to evacuate and recharge the system. Thanks, Paul from NJ. Great to see you back again cranking out tutorials.
+PAUL MACZ you can drop it and may be able to get the clutch off. Not sure, I have not done it myself.
Hey Robert have a question for you. When I'm driving my car I have noticed that my air will shut off for about two seconds then come back on then a few moments later it's doing the same thing.. One time my air even completely shut off and started making a loud buzz noise. So I Turned off my air then I turned it back on it was fine.. But still continued to shut off here and there for a few seconds then comes back on.. Any idea what it could be? Thanks
Monique Lugo Low on freon. - Basic AC Service, Volvo 850, S70, V70, XC70 - Auto Repair Series
How can i get access like you did. at 12.00 ? What do i have to remove, subframe?
Are you trying to install zip ties?
Robert DIY No, I want to change my ac compressor and dryer, because its broken (green fluid out of the ac compressor). I‘m searching how to remove the compressor and the dryer. Heared of droping the subframe, but that is not easy with jack stands. Better to remove powersteerin pump and generator from the top?
Probably. I don't even know what kind of car you have.
Robert DIY 850 Wagon 1995 2.5 20v Manual 5gear m56
Robert DIY So my question ist, how to remove the ac comressor the easiest way? From the bottm (lower the subframe?) Or from above and remove power steering pump and generator?
i think i already thanked you for this tip. it saved me over $1000. i have a problem now where my 2004 v70 with manual trans sometimes won't start, i sat there for an hour and it would not crank. the dash lights went on and when i turned the key all the wan, the headlights went out but it still did not crank. i also noted that the solenoid did not get power. when i had the car towed to the shop it started! the could not troubleshoot it because everything worked. the car now works; but in a few days it will happen again.; then that's another tow. i think it is the clutch safety switch. do they go flackey? do you have any ideas? i had this problem a few months ago & changed the clutch pedal sensor, ignition switch & the starter relay and it worked until now. thx
Will it push start? My guess would be that there is a problem in the CEM system. Only a Volvo class scanner will reach those codes.
hi Robert, My 97 Volvo 850 na aircon compresser rumbles and is noisy when air is turned on when off it is quiet. Does that mean compressed is bad. Thank You Billy
+Billy Rose probably.
Hi Robert, I did this today to my V70 (1999 - MK1) T5, and the clutch engaged erratically and spun for a bit, but then would stop. Also, there were a lot of metal scraping noises as it tried to engage. Basically it would spin for a bit, but then stop, and then try a little bit to spin some more, and ended up not spinning anymore, just like it had been before. I hadn't serviced the aircon for some years by the way, because it didn't work. So now, is it possible that having done the "shim" repair with cable ties, it might be getting the aircon regassed and hopefully they lubricate it as well, or do you think from what I've described that the compressor might be seized or broken? Thanks for your help, and apologies if this has already been answered here before.
+cleantubekey if it doesn't try to kill the engine it may be fine. Does it have enough refrigerant in it?
Hi Robert, thanks for your reply. No, I suspect it hasn't any. It was last working a number of years ago, and the last time I had it regassed it didn't last very long. So I was hoping that the cable tie fix might be the solution. I guess if there's no refrigerant in the system, then it won't run, in order to prevent damage. I was thinking of getting it regassed and serviced, now that I've put the cable tie shims in. I put 6 in by the way, one on each side of the metal ring, not 3 like you did. Wonder if I've overdone it!? They are medium cable ties by the way, I didn't measure the gap though. Thanks again for your help.
+cleantubekey it needs refrigerant.
Robert, Nice video, congrats. I recently changed my compressor with a rebuild that at first worked fine for a bit and started cycling while putting refrigerant in it, it even started cooling for a bit too. However after a little while, every time the AC compressor engaged I could see engine dying for a bit and the cooling fan stopping, did it several times until the engine died completely. After that I am not able to get my AC running, when I switch it on it does not engage and the Cooling fan stops and I get a DTC Code for a bad circuit on the Cooling Fan speed sensor. This is a F150 FX4 2007 BTW. Any ideas what to do? Thanks
Leo Mena I apologize but I really do not know. It sounds like the compressor is bad.
Robert DIY : Robert, Thanks. However I did read one of your comments saying that both the fan coil and AC clutch are related somehow through a relay and that relay is in the Fan Coil "Scrod". Excuse my ingnorance but I dont know what the Scrod is other than a fish. Can you explain that a bit more for me. I believe that can lead me to the solution of my problem. Thanks again!
Leo Mena If the AC compressor is causing the engine to bog down or shut off, it is locking up the serpentine (or fan) belt. When the AC is turned on, it is suppose to turn the fan on. The scrod is the plastic housing under the hood that things are attached to.
Robert DIY Thanks Robert, willl look into that.
Hi Robert - It almost looks as if I could do this job without removing the compressor/evacuating the system - is this correct? Just removing the pass wheel, inner fender, etc? How about leaving the serpentine belt on?
This job might not be much harder than using the zip ties actually. Am I correct?
+Christopher Burtraw much harder. If you have a puller it shouldn't take to long.
so my clutch seems really stuck and hard to take off. what might be some causes that will prevent the clutch from being removed? could it possibly be melted on?
+Jon Garza tight fit. Get a puller.
Thank you! Man I love your videos!
Thanks for watching
Hey Robert, recently I had my A/C compressor replaced and now I'm getting a P1308 code. The mechanic didn't complete the system recharge yet, but is it common to get this code because of the A/C?
Egghead820 Probably. I wouldn't worry about it until the system is serviced.
Hey Robert. Love the videos.
I recently bought a 2000 Volvo V70. Has about 130000 miles on it now. Love the car but the AC is doing something weird. Most of the time it works fine and blows cold when the car is at high and low speeds. But occasionally I will be driving and it will stop blowing cold. I turn the AC back off wait a minute and then turn it back on and it works fine. Also sometimes the AC makes a low hum growling noise when the blower is at a low setting. I already had my mechanic charge the AC system and that didn't work. The AC evaporator core was replaced back in 2006 at 85000 miles so I'm hoping and praying that I won't have to replace again now. I'm supposed to go back to my mechanic in a few days and he was going to put some freon into it. Do you think this kind of issue I'm having is the compressor clutch?
+Morgan W ua-cam.com/video/P5Q7UQVzV6E/v-deo.html
Thank you!
Hello Robert, I was trying to make a comment on the video where you put zip ties to the compressor to make it engage.
I tried your trick and it seems to engage and doesnt click on and off after a short period as it did before. I also tried switching relay with something else to make sure that one was ok.
When I initally start the car after leaving it over night it looks like the Ac is working. After the car gets warmed up so does the AC. The lines to the compressor also shows alot of condensation accumulating. Do you have any leads on this issue if no other variables are known? Volvo 2.5T 04.
If this video doesn't help, no.
Where exactly must the zip-ties be removed before they can be closed, is this more to fill those half moons or to put something together?
you show the clutch removal with the serp belt off. is it necessary to remove the serp belt?
+James Franke absolutely.
Hello robert, i got a little question that im sure you will be able to answer. The airconditioner button is on, the belt pulley turns but the clutch does not. I tried the broom stick trick but it also wont make it turn. I measured the space between. 0.5mm fits 0.6 does not, what can be the problem?
+Julien Van Der Meer to low on refrigerant.
Robert DIY so the clutch won't catch at all if refrigerant is too low?
In the Netherlands its not allowed to fill the ac yourself because of the toxic gasses. But i menaged to order a r134a kit from germany. Will report back here if i fixed the problem!
Hi Robert, I have a specific question for you. I kept having dead battery problems. Replaced voltage regulator and two batteries. Found out I had a parasitic drain coming from the climate control (my air conditioner). I pulled the fuse 2 months ago and things have been fine. Now that it is warming up, I'm trying to figure out how to get this back to working. If i plug the fuse back in the a/c works and blows cold for about 5 minutes then it stops working and starts hissing pretty loud. I shut the car off and then pull the fuse which makes a loud click sound from the compressor. Do you think this is a relay problem? Any ideas for what I can do to fix it. The compressor is working which is hopeful but I don't know what to do to keep it working and not draining my battery. The hissing concerns me the most.
+John Newhouse what kind of car do you have?
2000 S70
Measured my clutch gap today.. somewhat around 0.75mm. Depend on how deep in you stick it and how much i push it in.
Had one shim inside. 1.35mm. Without that my clutch plate was stuck permanent on the compressor. Could not spinn it freely.
Started car and compressor went on. Blowing cold air. But cant drive around with compressor permantly on. Will damage it.
In my case either the gap is to big or the magnetic ring is defect or something else with the electrical system.. or a pressure sensor.
Gap on my car model should be 0.4-0.8mm. So i think i need to get a shim-kit first and try to lower the gap to near 0.4. Is this so sensitive?
if you have 0.4 or 0.7.
any diagnostic tips for me? what to try?
I don't even know what kind of car you have...
@@RobertDIY Volvo S40 2006. 1.8.
Visteo ac compressor
Probably a bad ring.
@@RobertDIY how can i check that? Measure resistance or something?
I don't know, you need to get a shop manual.
How did you get the belt off the compressor before removing the clutch? Does it come right off with a screwdriver or did you have a special tool for it?
+Nick M. The serpentine belt?
+Robert DIY If that's the belt I have to remove to fix this then yes.
Comes off first. I usually just zip tie it.
ua-cam.com/video/P5Q7UQVzV6E/v-deo.html
Hello Robert,quick question...what can cause my 10a a/c compressor fuse to keep blowing out?
Bad compressor, seized compressor clutch, etc.
Thank you, for making this video! It was very helpful
Cool, you are welcome.
Can I leave it jumped like that....or I can't operate the car with the jump wire enplace .. will it burn the system out
Hmmm, probably ok.
I have a 1994 volvo 850 and when I turn my a/c on it makes a ticking noise like the motor on the compressor isn't working or is stuck. What are your best solutions to solve this problem, do I need to replace the whole compressor or is it having something to do with the clutch. I am guessing that the compressor is bad because it was ticking like the motor was stuck so I pulled the fuse for the compressor and it quit, let me know ASAP thanks, Nate
DO you think that I just need to recharge the A/C?
That is where I would start.
did you mean start? by trying to recharge the A\C?
Yes. lol
Hey Robert! I have a Volvo S70, and my compressor just engages and jams every few seconds, and the Is not giving any cold air. Any tips will be appreciated Thanks. Where I live almost no one fixes Volvos
What does JAMS every few seconds mean?
it's starts rolling and it stops with a 'click' sound over and over again...
So it's engaging. Sounds like it is low on freon.
Do you have any idea why radiator fan and a/c compressor work together? I mean my A/C died with my engine cooling fan also.. do they work thru same relay or something?
Yes they work together. The fan comes on with the AC to help make sure the motor is cool. The AC puts an additional load on the motor. The relay is on the fan scrod.
Very informative video! I keep coming back. :-)
A question (or scenario) - what is your piece of advice:
I did a leak test on my AC-system and they told me it was the accumulator dryer. I changed it (which took me some time) and went back to get the car filled up (filling it up on your own is illegal in Sweden) :-D Then the cooling fan did not start. Checked it up and it turned out the an was broken. So, changed the fan and it got swooshing real nice, AND the AC turned on and went beautifully!
I had a cool and nice car for about six hours and then it deteriorated. A couple of days later the AC is not working at all. It made me quite sad after all the work I had put in. I am guessing that the problem might be the compressor because I have seen some traces of leakage and it made some strange noises before it stopped working. When it started to deteriorate I heard a quite silent beeping sound once in a while.
Do you think it could be the clutch or has the freon just leaked out of the system?
Thanks!
/Martin
I have no idea. Have the place that serviced it vacuum and check for leaks.
What's the size of the central bolt? It dropped out of my car during a ride and clutch fell off. I was able to recover the clutch but couldn't find the bolt to reinstall :(
I have no idea.
Never tap a screwdriver under the clutch! Its ment to be pushed off with 3 m5x40 bolts in the treaded holes on front of the clutch. Just did mine on my 1995 850, removed a spacer ring and working ac again.
Ok
Hi, is a leaky evaporator/dryer a common ac malfunction problem?
+Elminas Jakubauskas yes
I have a 2012 S80 Volvo. I noticed yesterday that it did not blow cold air when I initially turned on the AC. But as I droved it got very cold. However, when I'm at a stop light it stops blowing cold air and then once I start moving again the air comes back on and blows cool. It does not stop blowing air. Anyone have any ideas?
Just wondering, my compressor clutch needs new bearings, can i just take of the front of the compressor, clutch and all and put it back on while it is still on the car without no disaster happening? Thanks!
+Fredrik what kind of car do you have?
A v70 2002/2003 2.0T.
+Fredrik probably not.
So what should I look for if the system keeps over pressurizing after drain and fill ?
A new compressor?
Okay Robert I have a question. I own a 2000 S70 GLT SE. The body has 195k and the engine has 70k. When I first start the car the AC works perfectly. However if I give it 1/2-Full Throttle the AC stops working and just blows hot air. This also happens after driving the car for 30 minutes. Any ideas on what it might be?
Did you watch this video? Clutch gap.
but its an auto...
Aaron Ashley The clutch being described in this video is not the transmission clutch. I think that's where the confusion is. The compressor has it's own clutch. You can see it in the video, you might also check out matt's volvo site for helpful fixes to this problem. Robert's video gives a good visual reference to where compressor clutch problems occur and how to address them. Based on the research I've recently done it sounds like it IS a problem with the gap in the compressor clutch, and this vid definitely addresses that.
I would suggest that you check the psi before spending any big money or start tinkering with the compressor clutch as the compressor is a touchy component that could incur further damage if tampered with. You may find that the refrigerant may need to be recharged which is an extremely quick and easy fix.
The best approach with DIY fixes is to identify the problem and work your away up from the bottom or start, in your case you're on the right track.
Thanks Michael.
But that makes no sense, and who the hell is matt
Hey Robert, my A/C compressor was working perfect till today. It used to engage and disengage during it was on. I don't remember exactly but every 30 secs or 1 mini it used to go on and off. But today, it engaged but never off and started to blow warm, humid air into cabin. when I turn off and restart the car, it blows cold but after 5 minutes use, again warm and humid air and compressor still working. Could you pls advise the issue and how to fix?
Thanks in advance.
I have a 2002 S80 2.0T
Hi again. I have made some trials at evening time.
1) a/c on, 28 degrees Celsius-hot air, fan speed low/medium. Compressor engaging on and off in short periods.
2) 22 degrees, fan speed low/medium. Compressor engages on and off but periods are now longer. Cooling not bad but not freezing.
3) 16 - lowest degree, fan speed low/medium. Compressor engages on and off but periods are more longer. Cooling as above.
4) 16 degrees, fan speed maximum. Compressor engages on and off but now periods are much longer. Cooling as above.
I understand that compressor is working fine. Maybe I need to change the cooling gas. This process I did took about 15 minutes but I have not observed any water draining to floor. Is this normal? Do you think the general problem is the cooling gas?
Thanks in advance.
+Cem Eserdag ua-cam.com/video/ReG1uQiMhm8/v-deo.html
Robert DIY actually, as I explained above, I don't think the problem is clutch because it is engaging and disengaging as soon as it pumps cold air inside. In your videos, if the clutch gap is big, compressor doesn't engage but mine does. I will full the gas in it and see what the outcome will be. Thanks for your support. I learned so much from your videos 👍👍
Low freon will do that. If there is not enough freon in the system, the compressor will turn on, it will compress what is there, then it will turn off when the pressure drops too low. That small amount that was compressed, will push a small amount of freon through the system until there is again just a small amount to compress again. Then, it will turn off again.
Robert sorry how can I figure out if it's the AC compressor?
Auntie Of13 If the system is charged and it kicks on, then fails to stay on, it is likely a compressor issue. There is a way to jump the clutch and make it engage but I'm not real sure how to do that. Bottom line is, you should be able to visit a AC shop that works on AC and alternators daily. They usually can tell you what the problem is without much or any charge. General mechanics that do oil changes, tires, etc., will usually not want to take the time to properly trouble shoot the issue.
Hey Robert its me again, i tried filling my system but the clutch wouldn't catch. I tried overfilling it a little and then the clutch catched on and off repeatedly. So im sure the clutch is okay. I let gass out to lower the pressure again but it won't stay on
+Julien Van Der Meer seems like you didn't have enough in the system.
Robert DIY so what should i try now? Let it get filled by a garage?
+Julien Van Der Meer either add refrigerant until it works or take it to a shop to have it properly serviced.
Robert DIY alright thank you!
Robert DIY it worked!! Thanks a lot! And for all the effort you put in for people