I wanted to see myself what the difference was, and I was surprised how much faster the 1:10 are - we had to go so slow slow thay started to cog, to match the speed of the micro cars.
Nice video great comparison i got plans on building a track like the first 1 you showed so im going to get my son and i a pair of the wltoys but in the future i want to build the 2nd track then we will get a pair of mini z
They look really cool and it looks like they are handling pretty well. We have two of the old 27MHz Losi Micro-T and they are very fun (but now broken - and no spares available, they are 10 or more years old), the purple in this video is a Micro-T. We also have a red truggy style but no video of that before it broke: ua-cam.com/video/9rCrsWFtFpQ/v-deo.html
I am looking at all the WL toys series, scouring your videos and Beaver’s, and am trying to figure out which model to get for indoor carpet racing. I don’t have a local shop, so it will just be me and some buddies getting into it for as affordable as possible. I know you have highly recommended the 284010 especially with the updates, but with it having I believe a smaller wheel base is that going to impact anything in particular? I am very new to this, I’ve had some wltoys cars in the past and really liked them, but want something smaller for indoor use racing. Thank you for all your awesome videos, I will continue watching through what you have already made so you got a subscriber here!
Hi, thanks for the kind words. Have you watched this video? The Mini-Z handles much better than the 284010, but a 1:10 touring car is much better than Mini-Z. A pre-owned 1:10 touring car can often be found around the same price as a new Min-Z. So if you want to get into indoor carpet racing, a 1:10 is in my mind the best way. But you need a club for that as the track is nothing you can have at home. But if you prefer the compact size where you can have a track at home, you will need to choose between the 284010 and Mini-Z. I have seen some of Beavers videos on upgrading the K989, and I am not fan of upgrading the cheap WL toys too much. You easily end up spending so much money that you could as well just have bought a Mini-Z. And no matter how much you upgrade a WL Toys, a stock Mini-Z still handles better (and the Mini-Z can be upgraded as well). It's not easy to give the best advice. I would buy the 284010, because it's cheap and start with that. If I then really enjoyed racing, I would consider buying a Mini-Z or 1:10 later.
Did you have similar tyres on both cars when testing or did I just see you comparing a car with wide slick tyres to a car with narrow rally tyres? Adding hopups to the wltoys car brings it to ~half the price of miniz. Modifying the miniz is an option but makes the price gap even greater.
Hi, we wanted to compare how well a stock Mini-Z was compared to a stock WLToys, so yes we did compare narrow tyres to slick tires. But both cars can be upgraded for more money than they cost - so we didn't want to go down that road. And still, the tires don't matter in this test, because to all surfaces the RWD Mini-Z struggles more with grip than the 4x4 WLToys. Actually if we go too fast around a corner on carpet or Mini-Z track the WLToys traction rolls (flips over) where the Mini-Z breaks traction. The Mini-Z is simply faster because it has much less play, better steering geometry and much lower center of gravity, and that's not something you can fix on the WLToys. And if any of you reading this are one of those persons (I hope you are not 😊) and complain that we are noobs and knows nothing about RC cars - just because we are a small UA-cam Channel, I want to draw your attention to this video. We are currently leading the national championship for touring cars, so we do have a little RC knowledge 😉ua-cam.com/video/-DhfbE7eiVI/v-deo.html
@@LyhneRC The comparison would make make more sense if the cheaper unit was upgraded to resemble the more expensive unit while retaining a meaningful price difference. That would serve the community by showing an optional, cheaper roadmap to the hobby. I don't really care about the size of the YT channel. Quality and value is more important. Just don't start shouting and bashing as the more famous channels when you start gaining more subscribers.. 😅
@@ilkkasorsa9778 Don't worry we won't start shouting & stuff to gain more subscribers 😀. I have experimented with upgrades for the WLToys. Changing radio is a bug upgrade, specially for K989: ua-cam.com/video/_LAe7qcECkY/v-deo.html Instead of change tires I have added more grip on the existing (but as mentioned earlier they don't need more grip as they already traction ua-cam.com/video/R4TGSu7NmBQ/v-deo.html And tried with fixed front diff: ua-cam.com/video/IaK9rInmT_s/v-deo.html The K989 in the end of the video has all these upgrades and other small tweaks, but still is very far from being able to keep up with the Mini-Z. IMHO it makes no sense to do much more upgrades on the WLToys, as the design simply has a too high center of gravity and will never be as good as Mini-Z. So yes the Mini-Z is a lot more expensive, also too expensive if you ask me. But maybe you can find a used one, both the Mini-Z we own are bought used, as there is no way I will pay that much for such a small and relatively simple car.
Oh, by the way: If you have any upgrades that you think will make a huge difference, please let me know. Maybe I will give the WLToys vs Mini-Z another shot with more upgrades 👍
@@LyhneRC I know this is a month late, but I fought it would be worth mentioning that the wltoys car has a very high ride high out of the box I measured about 4.5mm front and rear, which is way too high for RCP tracks you normally around 2mm front ride height and 2-2.3mm rear ride height. You can achieve a lower ride height by sanding down the preload clips or buying the new version of the alloy shocks with the threaded shock bodies, (Not the old ones because do not have threaded bodies). Also glue the tiers to the wheels if you have not already this will stop the tires from folding over and caching on the track surface, and if the car is still flipping over you can glue the side walls of the tire like what is done with a 1/10 touring car. finally, the diffs you do not want to lock the front diff, this makes the car push a lot during corners, instead try starting with 15-20k diff grease front and rear you can also put the same diff grease on shock shafts for some damping action this works for the stock shocks and the alloy ones. The wltoys car is really just a clone of an atomic amz and mini q q7 which were originally entry level race kits that are way better than the kyosho mr03.
Why would you compare the race and use the footage wheee you crashed the WLtoy car so many times and say the mini Z beat it by almost a lap? I think a best lap time attack would’ve been more ideal for that comparison with the carpet track.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I could have tried again and again with the WLToys to get one perfect lap and compare that to a perfect lap with the Mini-Z, but I don't think that would be representative - because the reality is that when you take the WLToys to a narrow track as the Mini-Z track it just crashes over and over - it is simply not precise enough and steering geometry is not perfect (and it can't be improved). A relatively skilled driver can with no problems do 10 laps with a Mini-Z without crashing, but that is just not possible with the WLToys - even with a pro driver. The driver in this test happens to be the guy driving the red/silver/blue car in this video, who is actually leading the Danish Touring Car Championship: ua-cam.com/video/-DhfbE7eiVI/v-deo.html so it is not because we are missing skill here 😊 and we could not go fast without crashing.
Hello. I just bought 284131. The drivetrain feels so sticky when playing. It stops when i release throttle. I have watched your fix video. I checked my rear diff. It's not too tight actually. It can move. The pinion and spur gears can also move quite freely when i spin them with hand. Im not sure what caused it so sticky when playing. Anyway, you mentioned somewhere not to over tighten the screws of diff. Which screws you mean? i found 3 tiny screws, and 1 tiny screw in center (which i failed to unscrew).
Hi, there is a lot of internal resistance in the motor so this car will always stop abruptly when releasing the throttle. If you are in doubt try disengaging the motor, then the car should run freely with almost no resistance. Regarding the screws in the diff, then I noticed that if I tightened too much then a freely moving diff would become tight again. Guess the plastic is so thin that you can bend it, so just keep an eye on that 👍
The cheapo aluminum difs from ebay are a great upgrade to fix the issues you are describing. With a little time spent, the WL cars can become quite enjoyable to drive.
i dont know a lot about these cars but i do know the kyosho mini z is stupid expensive for what it is, also id much prefer the 4 wheel independent suspension and the lipos battery of the wl toys car, also you could probably get the wil toys handling a lot better with better tyres, yes the mini z looks a lot better with the scale bodys but if i had to get chose id get a wl toys with some mini z tyres and body
For racing I agree, but the AWD mini Z is worth every penny for drifting. I’ve owned a k969 and the experience of driving the mini z vs the k969 is incomparable
I agree. The mini-z is a better car for sure, but the price is ridiculous for what you get. You can get a 1:10 car for that price. I own a Mini-Q which is a Mini-Z clone, but that is no way as good. I have bought two Mini-Z used, then the price is not that bad.
@@LyhneRC yeah honestly even the AWD is overpriced in my opinion but honestly there’s just nothing better you can get at this scale. I think $150 RTR with gyro and lights would be a fair price
@genboxofficial7417 Correct, they are THE best 1:24 and they know it, that’s why they are some expensive. Could be great if some other company made one as good but more affordable. Then they would probably lower the price
I own both types as well. I think there is some gear mesh issues in the Wltoys. The rolling resistance is terrible. The tires are not very good for actual racing either due to the hard compound. Its easy to work on and the price is good. Depending on where and when you get one..3 can be obtained for the price of a mini Z. The mini Z is really good out of the box. The 4 AAA batteries give it a mechanical traction advantage once its moving. The rear differential is excellent and its overall top speed is much better as well.
Thanks for all the info, I can support that 👍. Regarding the rolling resistance the 284010 is better than K989 and 284131. Have you tried this trick: Upgrade drive train WLToys K989, K969 or 284131 | fix stiff, sticky differentials ua-cam.com/video/vw0_qGlPOTs/v-deo.html
Regarding more traction you can get so much that the car starts to traction roll on carpet by using tire sauce. See more here: WLToys K989, 284131, Mini-Q will tire additive make them faster? ua-cam.com/video/R4TGSu7NmBQ/v-deo.html
@LyhneRC excellent. I have not. I've been out of the hobby for a few months it seems. Adding insulation and extra storage in my garage and currently working on protecting my workshop against my dogs and also adding a layer of insulation. Greetings from Texas. That's some good information you have.
I am almost certain if an experienced mini racer was able to make some tire and supension mods to wltoys and add a better radio and gyro he could get lap times very close to mini z...his driving style would have to be adjusted a bit ,since both cars have different characteristics...most people dont have people to race with or a fancy track...so imo the wltoys racing another wltoys would be just as fun experience ..basic wltoys cost around $45..basic mini z cost $200...plus i think wltoys can be upgraded with mini z parts...for those that want to race and have a track available where they race mini z than mini z is what you get,since they would not allow wltoys in the race modified or not...
I agree that for most people the wltoys would be just as fun. On a tight Mini-Z track the Mini-Z wins every time, in this test we used a stock Mini-Z vs a upgraded K989 with better radio and locked front diff and other small upgrades, but still the Mini-Z wins. The best driver in this video came 3rd in last years nation championship for touring cars. But outside this Mini-Z track the wltoys are more fun to drive, so for many people the wltoys are a great choice. But for racers the Mini-Z are much more satisfied to drive as it simply handles better and has much better weight balance.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The video we need to see.
Thanks to think what we need
I wanted to see myself what the difference was, and I was surprised how much faster the 1:10 are - we had to go so slow slow thay started to cog, to match the speed of the micro cars.
Subbed! I have been considering getting one of these. This was just what I needed to see.
Thanks, glad to help 👍
Very nice comparison. I have the WLToys truck. Really like it a lot!
Thanks, yes there are awesome little cars, a lot of car for the money 👍
Nice video great comparison i got plans on building a track like the first 1 you showed so im going to get my son and i a pair of the wltoys but in the future i want to build the 2nd track then we will get a pair of mini z
Sounds like a good plan. The wltoys 284010 is the best one to get 👍 unless you want to drift
It's been a long time, hasn't it? I thought you were no longer running your channel! Nice to see you again, buddy!
Thanks, have been busy starting up a new RC club - takes a lot of time 😊
Now im curious to race a losi micro b
They look really cool and it looks like they are handling pretty well. We have two of the old 27MHz Losi Micro-T and they are very fun (but now broken - and no spares available, they are 10 or more years old), the purple in this video is a Micro-T. We also have a red truggy style but no video of that before it broke: ua-cam.com/video/9rCrsWFtFpQ/v-deo.html
I am looking at all the WL toys series, scouring your videos and Beaver’s, and am trying to figure out which model to get for indoor carpet racing. I don’t have a local shop, so it will just be me and some buddies getting into it for as affordable as possible. I know you have highly recommended the 284010 especially with the updates, but with it having I believe a smaller wheel base is that going to impact anything in particular? I am very new to this, I’ve had some wltoys cars in the past and really liked them, but want something smaller for indoor use racing. Thank you for all your awesome videos, I will continue watching through what you have already made so you got a subscriber here!
Hi, thanks for the kind words. Have you watched this video? The Mini-Z handles much better than the 284010, but a 1:10 touring car is much better than Mini-Z. A pre-owned 1:10 touring car can often be found around the same price as a new Min-Z. So if you want to get into indoor carpet racing, a 1:10 is in my mind the best way. But you need a club for that as the track is nothing you can have at home.
But if you prefer the compact size where you can have a track at home, you will need to choose between the 284010 and Mini-Z. I have seen some of Beavers videos on upgrading the K989, and I am not fan of upgrading the cheap WL toys too much. You easily end up spending so much money that you could as well just have bought a Mini-Z. And no matter how much you upgrade a WL Toys, a stock Mini-Z still handles better (and the Mini-Z can be upgraded as well).
It's not easy to give the best advice. I would buy the 284010, because it's cheap and start with that. If I then really enjoyed racing, I would consider buying a Mini-Z or 1:10 later.
Did you have similar tyres on both cars when testing or did I just see you comparing a car with wide slick tyres to a car with narrow rally tyres? Adding hopups to the wltoys car brings it to ~half the price of miniz. Modifying the miniz is an option but makes the price gap even greater.
Hi, we wanted to compare how well a stock Mini-Z was compared to a stock WLToys, so yes we did compare narrow tyres to slick tires. But both cars can be upgraded for more money than they cost - so we didn't want to go down that road. And still, the tires don't matter in this test, because to all surfaces the RWD Mini-Z struggles more with grip than the 4x4 WLToys. Actually if we go too fast around a corner on carpet or Mini-Z track the WLToys traction rolls (flips over) where the Mini-Z breaks traction. The Mini-Z is simply faster because it has much less play, better steering geometry and much lower center of gravity, and that's not something you can fix on the WLToys.
And if any of you reading this are one of those persons (I hope you are not 😊) and complain that we are noobs and knows nothing about RC cars - just because we are a small UA-cam Channel, I want to draw your attention to this video. We are currently leading the national championship for touring cars, so we do have a little RC knowledge 😉ua-cam.com/video/-DhfbE7eiVI/v-deo.html
@@LyhneRC The comparison would make make more sense if the cheaper unit was upgraded to resemble the more expensive unit while retaining a meaningful price difference. That would serve the community by showing an optional, cheaper roadmap to the hobby.
I don't really care about the size of the YT channel. Quality and value is more important. Just don't start shouting and bashing as the more famous channels when you start gaining more subscribers.. 😅
@@ilkkasorsa9778 Don't worry we won't start shouting & stuff to gain more subscribers 😀.
I have experimented with upgrades for the WLToys. Changing radio is a bug upgrade, specially for K989: ua-cam.com/video/_LAe7qcECkY/v-deo.html
Instead of change tires I have added more grip on the existing (but as mentioned earlier they don't need more grip as they already traction ua-cam.com/video/R4TGSu7NmBQ/v-deo.html
And tried with fixed front diff: ua-cam.com/video/IaK9rInmT_s/v-deo.html
The K989 in the end of the video has all these upgrades and other small tweaks, but still is very far from being able to keep up with the Mini-Z.
IMHO it makes no sense to do much more upgrades on the WLToys, as the design simply has a too high center of gravity and will never be as good as Mini-Z.
So yes the Mini-Z is a lot more expensive, also too expensive if you ask me. But maybe you can find a used one, both the Mini-Z we own are bought used, as there is no way I will pay that much for such a small and relatively simple car.
Oh, by the way: If you have any upgrades that you think will make a huge difference, please let me know. Maybe I will give the WLToys vs Mini-Z another shot with more upgrades 👍
@@LyhneRC I know this is a month late, but I fought it would be worth mentioning that the wltoys car has a very high ride high out of the box I measured about 4.5mm front and rear, which is way too high for RCP tracks you normally around 2mm front ride height and 2-2.3mm rear ride height. You can achieve a lower ride height by sanding down the preload clips or buying the new version of the alloy shocks with the threaded shock bodies, (Not the old ones because do not have threaded bodies). Also glue the tiers to the wheels if you have not already this will stop the tires from folding over and caching on the track surface, and if the car is still flipping over you can glue the side walls of the tire like what is done with a 1/10 touring car. finally, the diffs you do not want to lock the front diff, this makes the car push a lot during corners, instead try starting with 15-20k diff grease front and rear you can also put the same diff grease on shock shafts for some damping action this works for the stock shocks and the alloy ones. The wltoys car is really just a clone of an atomic amz and mini q q7 which were originally entry level race kits that are way better than the kyosho mr03.
Why would you compare the race and use the footage wheee you crashed the WLtoy car so many times and say the mini Z beat it by almost a lap? I think a best lap time attack would’ve been more ideal for that comparison with the carpet track.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I could have tried again and again with the WLToys to get one perfect lap and compare that to a perfect lap with the Mini-Z, but I don't think that would be representative - because the reality is that when you take the WLToys to a narrow track as the Mini-Z track it just crashes over and over - it is simply not precise enough and steering geometry is not perfect (and it can't be improved). A relatively skilled driver can with no problems do 10 laps with a Mini-Z without crashing, but that is just not possible with the WLToys - even with a pro driver. The driver in this test happens to be the guy driving the red/silver/blue car in this video, who is actually leading the Danish Touring Car Championship: ua-cam.com/video/-DhfbE7eiVI/v-deo.html so it is not because we are missing skill here 😊 and we could not go fast without crashing.
@ ahhh I see your point, very good thanks for the reply!
Great, there is just a huge gap between those cars 👍
Hello. I just bought 284131. The drivetrain feels so sticky when playing. It stops when i release throttle. I have watched your fix video.
I checked my rear diff. It's not too tight actually. It can move. The pinion and spur gears can also move quite freely when i spin them with hand. Im not sure what caused it so sticky when playing.
Anyway, you mentioned somewhere not to over tighten the screws of diff. Which screws you mean? i found 3 tiny screws, and 1 tiny screw in center (which i failed to unscrew).
Hi, there is a lot of internal resistance in the motor so this car will always stop abruptly when releasing the throttle. If you are in doubt try disengaging the motor, then the car should run freely with almost no resistance.
Regarding the screws in the diff, then I noticed that if I tightened too much then a freely moving diff would become tight again. Guess the plastic is so thin that you can bend it, so just keep an eye on that 👍
The cheapo aluminum difs from ebay are a great upgrade to fix the issues you are describing. With a little time spent, the WL cars can become quite enjoyable to drive.
i dont know a lot about these cars but i do know the kyosho mini z is stupid expensive for what it is, also id much prefer the 4 wheel independent suspension and the lipos battery of the wl toys car, also you could probably get the wil toys handling a lot better with better tyres, yes the mini z looks a lot better with the scale bodys but if i had to get chose id get a wl toys with some mini z tyres and body
For racing I agree, but the AWD mini Z is worth every penny for drifting. I’ve owned a k969 and the experience of driving the mini z vs the k969 is incomparable
I agree. The mini-z is a better car for sure, but the price is ridiculous for what you get. You can get a 1:10 car for that price. I own a Mini-Q which is a Mini-Z clone, but that is no way as good. I have bought two Mini-Z used, then the price is not that bad.
@@LyhneRC yeah honestly even the AWD is overpriced in my opinion but honestly there’s just nothing better you can get at this scale. I think $150 RTR with gyro and lights would be a fair price
@genboxofficial7417 Correct, they are THE best 1:24 and they know it, that’s why they are some expensive. Could be great if some other company made one as good but more affordable. Then they would probably lower the price
ı have a k989 and its amazing
For the price it doesn’t get much better. The newer 284010 is slightly improved though
For the price it doesn’t get much better. The newer 284010 is slightly improved though
I own both types as well.
I think there is some gear mesh issues in the Wltoys. The rolling resistance is terrible. The tires are not very good for actual racing either due to the hard compound.
Its easy to work on and the price is good. Depending on where and when you get one..3 can be obtained for the price of a mini Z.
The mini Z is really good out of the box.
The 4 AAA batteries give it a mechanical traction advantage once its moving.
The rear differential is excellent and its overall top speed is much better as well.
Thanks for all the info, I can support that 👍. Regarding the rolling resistance the 284010 is better than K989 and 284131. Have you tried this trick: Upgrade drive train WLToys K989, K969 or 284131 | fix stiff, sticky differentials
ua-cam.com/video/vw0_qGlPOTs/v-deo.html
Regarding more traction you can get so much that the car starts to traction roll on carpet by using tire sauce. See more here: WLToys K989, 284131, Mini-Q will tire additive make them faster?
ua-cam.com/video/R4TGSu7NmBQ/v-deo.html
@LyhneRC excellent.
I have not. I've been out of the hobby for a few months it seems.
Adding insulation and extra storage in my garage and currently working on protecting my workshop against my dogs and also adding a layer of insulation.
Greetings from Texas.
That's some good information you have.
Fed video godt sammenligning ❤
Tak 😊
New age of miniz seems to wltoys
They are atleast 1/3 price, and for that they are great 👍
I am almost certain if an experienced mini racer was able to make some tire and supension mods to wltoys and add a better radio and gyro he could get lap times very close to mini z...his driving style would have to be adjusted a bit ,since both cars have different characteristics...most people dont have people to race with or a fancy track...so imo the wltoys racing another wltoys would be just as fun experience ..basic wltoys cost around $45..basic mini z cost $200...plus i think wltoys can be upgraded with mini z parts...for those that want to race and have a track available where they race mini z than mini z is what you get,since they would not allow wltoys in the race modified or not...
I agree that for most people the wltoys would be just as fun. On a tight Mini-Z track the Mini-Z wins every time, in this test we used a stock Mini-Z vs a upgraded K989 with better radio and locked front diff and other small upgrades, but still the Mini-Z wins. The best driver in this video came 3rd in last years nation championship for touring cars. But outside this Mini-Z track the wltoys are more fun to drive, so for many people the wltoys are a great choice. But for racers the Mini-Z are much more satisfied to drive as it simply handles better and has much better weight balance.
New miniz seems to much to wltoys design
How dare you ruin that Ferrari, it is easily worth $200🤕
I am really sorry about that 😢, and it's my sons Ferrari. We raced the Mini-Z vs a 1:10 touring car on a 1:10 track - video about that soon...
@@LyhneRC it fine, that’s part of the hobby. Slightly painful to see though 😂
@@braelighty6212 haha, yeah but a Ferrari…
First
Haha 🏆🏆