this may well be the best and no doubt cheapest build I've ever seen - who would have thought of simply using square edger tubes rotated through 45 degrees. brilliant.
You can't argue with the ingenuity and you definitely can't argue with the cost. If you're doing light engraving with 16th and possibly eighth inch bits I'm sure that this tool is more than capable. I personally have built and use an MPCNC and I love it for small jobs and larger 3D printing. I really like your motor adapters with the window to tighten the coupler.
Hi, when I write a comment, I see the effort, the idea, the genius behind and the person. Thank you for sharing, for showing me the know how. keep up. you get a full support.
That's really neat. I also built my own CNC mill. Very fin project. I would however point out, threaded rod is NOT your friend here. it will wear down much faster than you thing, prone to binding up, and flexing as well. Get yourself some proper leadscrews, they are a bit more expensive, but well worth it as far as durability, longevity, and SPEEEED!
Why have you changed this type of linear rails (with v bearings and L of alluminium) with normale bearings and some 3d printed pieces in the last design?
Well that was satisfying - apart from the sound the 3d printer bed makes when you pull back on it, pushing current back through the driver board. (maybe the video was just sped up - I'm really nitpicking here)
Is it possible to get the cut dimensions / lengths of all the individual parts - ply, mdf, rods, square tubbing, etc. The spreadsheet BOM list the raw material but without knowing how to cut all the individual parts it would be hard for me to recreate this. I'd really like to build one. I have a CR-10s4 so I can make the 3D printed parts. From the video I see most of the individual parts as they are assembled but there are no dimensions for the length of the rods, and tubing or the dimensions of the cut wood and mdf parts. I would pay you for kit build instructions for this as a DIY project.
Hi, I will try to add a more detailed drawing later. For now: Base front panel: 71 x 18 cm (22mm thick), 28" x 7" x 0.86" Base side (Y rails): 93.5 x 10 cm (22mm thick), 36.8" x 3.9" x 0.86" X rails carriage side panel: 36 x 18.5 cm (10mm thick), 14.2" x 7.3" x 0.39" X rails tube length: 63 cm, 24.8" Z rails tube length: 20 cm, 7.9" Waste board bed: 61 x 92 cm (22mm thick), 24" x 36.2" x 0.86" The threaded rods are 8mm (0.31") stainless steel. Lengths can be cut afterwards to fit the frame. Aluminium tubes are 15 x 15mm (0.59"). If I forgot something, just let me know.
Hello, great video 😄. I'm a beginner and I have a question about about the implementation of the screw-nut system from 5:00 to 6:14. Do we always need ball bearings when implementing a screw-nut system (like the one you embedded at 5:00) or is the threaded rod, the nut (like the one you embedded in 5:22) and the motor and shaft coupler are enough? Thank you in advance for your precious time. 😉 Cordially.
Why you decide to use 42BYGHW811 for X-axis motor? can it be replaced by 17HS8401 or 17HS8402 or any other? what part of its specs is important for x-axis?
Great job, you must have put some serious hours into this. The only thing I have reservations about is how flat the MDF table will remain, that stuff is great for sagging over time unless really well supported.
How's come you would not reccomend this? I was all excited. The one stepper motor can not be found at a low price, can a diffeent one be used? What tool is used for the engraver? thanks
I want to make it more accurate. The steppers are interchangeable, I just didn't had 4 of the same and later bought another one that is of a different type. The tool is a 500 watt Makita router.
Awesome Dan (but please keep in mind that this machine is 'under construction', I might change things in the future to improve it. Ofcource I will share them on GitHub). Good luck with your project!
The design is great. How fast is your fastest feed rate? I've built a CNC router ,but the mistake I made was that I didn't know how slow my maximum feed rate was going to be . Well it turns out my maximum feed and rapid is only 18 inches per minute. If I make another one I'll be checking into that aspect.
Hi Carl, I don't know how fast it get go yet. Today I've made a wooden box with 4mm plywood with these settings: 3mm bit, feedrate 762mm/min, plunge rate 228mm/min, depth per pass: 1mm. I think it can go faster but haven't tried that yet. You can check the result on my Instagram account.
Well, this reminds me of Fred Flinstone meets CNC! I love it! PLA huh? Any reason why you used PLA over ABS? Just a curiosity really. I know it has not been very long but how do you feel the router mount is holding up? That feels to me like the weakest link. Totally Impressed.
PETG is a better alternative to PLA but PLA should be fine. If he were going to machine anything harder then plastics wouldn't be a good choice anyway.
As I understand: for Z-axis you use especial rolled ball screw, but for X-axis you use simply long screw (5:29). Why? In AliExpress 1 meter long spindle with 12mm diameter costs only 20$ (with delivery). It is not expensive.
I don't understand your answer. In booth Y-axises and in X-axis you use screw spindel from buildin shop (and usual long female screw), and only in Z-axis you use especial spindel for CNC (and rolled ball female screw). Why different?
Amazing project, may I ask if you tried anything aluminum, which one will have the most impact on the final result, according to your opinion, the construction or the router?
Im completely new to cnc but im thinking about to make a cnc machine (or a (2d) printer) by my own because they are so expensive :P what did this machine (except the drill or whatever it is called in english) cost for you and what did the drill cost?
Amazing design and workmanship. And yes I watched the new video twice already. I’m also kind of binge watching other videos. I have one question. Does anyone know how those ‘nuts’ are called. I’ve been dreaming of stuff like that for ages and always ended up using normal nuts on the bottom encased in a wooden holder. A bit difficult to explain but I was thinking of designing the same nut holders from PLA until I saw it in the video at the 10:38 mark. There are so many interesting and helpful gadgets, machines and other stuff but when you don’t know it exist or if you know but don’t know the name. Then you are really helpless. Leon, you are truly an awesome designer and engineer.
Hi Robbie, thanks. The X and Y axis are pretty accurate but the Z axis need some improvement (it cuts a little to deep). I'm not sure if it's because of the weight of the router or if it's just a matter of tuning the Z steps setting. Except for thin aluminium maybe, I don't think that this machine can cut metal. It's probably not strong enough. Also the router that I have does'nt have a variable speed control (for metal you need slower rpm) and also cooling would be a problem (the base is wood so I can't use cooling fluids).
Leon van den Beukel Thanks, im trying to make a small CNC to mill aluminium, so these are important things for me to bear in mind. Even so, I think ill try to make it anyway. Robbie
Great idea! How is long term stability? How is environment humidity affect the wood? It look pretty stable anyhow. Can you keep us updated on long term performance?
Amazing work it’s a pleasure to see it! May I ask you which 3D Printer you use? I am working on my fist printer from a German book, where I build most of the parts by my own. It will be made out of wood so it’s very interesting to see which great quality your printed parts have.
This was my first version, you better look to my V3 (there's also a video about that). That machine can cut most of the plywoods with multiple passes depending on the type of ply wood and the tool cutter you're using.
I will first say that my experience in CNC is "absolute 0"... I am extremely interested in the subject and the idea of building my own seems challenging and fun. That said, my preliminary research shows a couple of options.. none are amazing.. For testing purposes, there are free trials of 3d carving software available like Artclip3d or MeshCAM User "Nevaehy" on Reddit seems to have created his own software, and I have yet to try it. Also, "Slicer for Fusion 360" might be a free option? I am chasing down that rabbit hole now. again, I have 0 experience, but I am excited to learn!
I could watch bearings being press-fit with the vise all day. Not sure why but that part is so satisfying.
this may well be the best and no doubt cheapest build I've ever seen - who would have thought of simply using square edger tubes rotated through 45 degrees. brilliant.
You can't argue with the ingenuity and you definitely can't argue with the cost. If you're doing light engraving with 16th and possibly eighth inch bits I'm sure that this tool is more than capable. I personally have built and use an MPCNC and I love it for small jobs and larger 3D printing. I really like your motor adapters with the window to tighten the coupler.
What a great project. Fascinating seeing you put it all together. Thanks for sharing.
Есаав
I actually thank you for this great video. And appreciate every single moment you spent on doing this tutorial. Many thanks to you from Iraq
Prachtig gedaan Leon ! Petje af blijf je volgen om te zien wat je verder nog aan perfectioneren van de CNC gaat doen !
Dankje 😊
Hi, when I write a comment, I see the effort, the idea, the genius behind and the person. Thank you for sharing, for showing me the know how. keep up. you get a full support.
Thanks 😄
Really nice work. I've been planning on building the MPCNC. But this has given me another path to consider. Thanks for the video and links.
5am and this just made my day.
GAH! you Stole my idea for linear slides! Nicely executed!
That's really neat. I also built my own CNC mill. Very fin project.
I would however point out, threaded rod is NOT your friend here. it will wear down much faster than you thing, prone to binding up, and flexing as well. Get yourself some proper leadscrews, they are a bit more expensive, but well worth it as far as durability, longevity, and SPEEEED!
3ds parts you make great Job, congratulations!
Simply exelent!
A great idea with rigid building, resulting in a professional cnc.
Great approach. Thanks for sharing.
Keep up the good work Leon.
Consider me incredibly impressed. Great job!
Unbelievable!
I learned a lot!
Thanks so much!
God bless you!
Why have you changed this type of linear rails (with v bearings and L of alluminium) with normale bearings and some 3d printed pieces in the last design?
That looked like fun! Thanks for sharing...
Well that was satisfying - apart from the sound the 3d printer bed makes when you pull back on it, pushing current back through the driver board. (maybe the video was just sped up - I'm really nitpicking here)
Thanks 😊. The sound is from a broken bearing.
You are pro, I learn much from you. Thanks for sharing.
Subscribed just because of this video
Thanks & congratulations for such a great project!
Dude you are a genius, congrats ;)
Awesome Project!
Excelent project. Thank you for sharing.
I am thanking you! Really exciting.. Thanks for sharing it!
Excellent project
Is it possible to get the cut dimensions / lengths of all the individual parts - ply, mdf, rods, square tubbing, etc. The spreadsheet BOM list the raw material but without knowing how to cut all the individual parts it would be hard for me to recreate this.
I'd really like to build one. I have a CR-10s4 so I can make the 3D printed parts. From the video I see most of the individual parts as they are assembled but there are no dimensions for the length of the rods, and tubing or the dimensions of the cut wood and mdf parts.
I would pay you for kit build instructions for this as a DIY project.
Hi, I will try to add a more detailed drawing later. For now:
Base front panel: 71 x 18 cm (22mm thick), 28" x 7" x 0.86"
Base side (Y rails): 93.5 x 10 cm (22mm thick), 36.8" x 3.9" x 0.86"
X rails carriage side panel: 36 x 18.5 cm (10mm thick), 14.2" x 7.3" x 0.39"
X rails tube length: 63 cm, 24.8"
Z rails tube length: 20 cm, 7.9"
Waste board bed: 61 x 92 cm (22mm thick), 24" x 36.2" x 0.86"
The threaded rods are 8mm (0.31") stainless steel. Lengths can be cut afterwards to fit the frame. Aluminium tubes are 15 x 15mm (0.59"). If I forgot something, just let me know.
This is awesome man thanks for sharing the information.
ua-cam.com/video/S0Hce1cKn_8/v-deo.html
Hello, great video 😄.
I'm a beginner and I have a question about about the implementation of the screw-nut system from 5:00 to 6:14.
Do we always need ball bearings when implementing a screw-nut system (like the one you embedded at 5:00) or is the threaded rod, the nut (like the one you embedded in 5:22) and the motor and shaft coupler are enough?
Thank you in advance for your precious time. 😉
Cordially.
привет это прошивка на марлин? это автономный контроллер у вас ?
Daar zit denk werk in! Mooi project!
Dankje :)
Why you decide to use 42BYGHW811 for X-axis motor?
can it be replaced by 17HS8401 or 17HS8402 or any other? what part of its specs is important for x-axis?
The motors are compatible
Really it's a very wonderful work
I love it. I’d love those stl’s or gcode as I’m embarking on this adventure myself.
Cheers
Fantastique , bravo pour cette belle création
Hi i love your work i wanted know what language you used to code for the software?
Can I suggest Igus zero backlash nuts? Tried some and they would probably work great on this.
Great project. Well done. Did you had any cracks on spindle mount? What kind of material did you used, ABS or PLA? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. No cracks but I did get some other issues so I made another version, check the next video
@@LeonvandenBeukel cool, but what material is used in 3d prints, and would PLA do it ?
Great job, you must have put some serious hours into this. The only thing I have reservations about is how flat the MDF table will remain, that stuff is great for sagging over time unless really well supported.
Thanks and your right about the MDF table
Great job, congratulation.
what are the names of the plastics parts in white?
Excelente projeto, parabéns 👏👏👏
Metric screw is no "moving screw", it is a "fastener screw" Much to slow for CNC, why not using trapez screws like in the Z axis ?
How's come you would not reccomend this? I was all excited. The one stepper motor can not be found at a low price, can a diffeent one be used?
What tool is used for the engraver?
thanks
I want to make it more accurate. The steppers are interchangeable, I just didn't had 4 of the same and later bought another one that is of a different type. The tool is a 500 watt Makita router.
WOW, It sure looked accurate to me. Thanks for the info. I sure would love to build this some day when I get my own place.
Thank you...
Are you using t nuta instead of lead screw nut
just curious, with PLA aren't you worried at all about part warping due to heat? Also nice printer, I have one too :D
Wow! Amazing. I wish I could do that!
ua-cam.com/video/S0Hce1cKn_8/v-deo.html
What slicer do you use or were those custom molded support in your files?
For your 3D printer and your CNC software
Hi Jimmy, I use Cura.
how do we do if we do not have a 3D printer to create the fixing part
thank you
What filament did you use?
Wow... Nice job!
Good job sir my next project is cnc I’ll try to make one also thank u very much
Awesome Dan (but please keep in mind that this machine is 'under construction', I might change things in the future to improve it. Ofcource I will share them on GitHub). Good luck with your project!
that's friggin awesome
Hi what motor did you use im looking to make an inexpensive cnc
Nema17
Sir can b this machine use to cut brass plate ?
The design is great. How fast is your fastest feed rate? I've built a CNC router ,but the mistake I made was that I didn't know how slow my maximum feed rate was going to be . Well it turns out my maximum feed and rapid is only 18 inches per minute. If I make another one I'll be checking into that aspect.
Hi Carl, I don't know how fast it get go yet. Today I've made a wooden box with 4mm plywood with these settings: 3mm bit, feedrate 762mm/min, plunge rate 228mm/min, depth per pass: 1mm. I think it can go faster but haven't tried that yet. You can check the result on my Instagram account.
Well, this reminds me of Fred Flinstone meets CNC! I love it! PLA huh? Any reason why you used PLA over ABS? Just a curiosity really. I know it has not been very long but how do you feel the router mount is holding up? That feels to me like the weakest link. Totally Impressed.
PLA is stiffer. ABS can handle higher heat, but nothing here will get that hot anyway. Well it shouldn't anyway.
PETG is a better alternative to PLA but PLA should be fine. If he were going to machine anything harder then plastics wouldn't be a good choice anyway.
Thanks, the router mount is holding fine so far :)
As I understand: for Z-axis you use especial rolled ball screw, but for X-axis you use simply long screw (5:29). Why? In AliExpress 1 meter long spindle with 12mm diameter costs only 20$ (with delivery). It is not expensive.
I was afraid it would bend during transport
I don't understand your answer. In booth Y-axises and in X-axis you use screw spindel from buildin shop (and usual long female screw), and only in Z-axis you use especial spindel for CNC (and rolled ball female screw). Why different?
Amazing project, may I ask if you tried anything aluminum, which one will have the most impact on the final result, according to your opinion, the construction or the router?
Thanks, I haven't tried aluminium so I don't know (yet).
Complimenti ottimo lavoro cercherò se riesco di replicarla
Great Stuff. Do you consider to create all part and ship it for self assembling?
Thanks. No, I just made it for my own use and decided to share the design for others to experiment and create.
Im completely new to cnc but im thinking about to make a cnc machine (or a (2d) printer) by my own because they are so expensive :P what did this machine (except the drill or whatever it is called in english) cost for you and what did the drill cost?
I'll update the GitHub page soon with a part list and cost estimation. The router cost about 60 euro.
Hi, I've updated the GitHub page with a link to a Google Sheet cost estimation.
Boa tarde qual aplicativo que você usou para inpresora 3D poderia informar por favor você tem Whatsapp
Amazing design and workmanship. And yes I watched the new video twice already. I’m also kind of binge watching other videos.
I have one question. Does anyone know how those ‘nuts’ are called. I’ve been dreaming of stuff like that for ages and always ended up using normal nuts on the bottom encased in a wooden holder. A bit difficult to explain but I was thinking of designing the same nut holders from PLA until I saw it in the video at the 10:38 mark.
There are so many interesting and helpful gadgets, machines and other stuff but when you don’t know it exist or if you know but don’t know the name. Then you are really helpless.
Leon, you are truly an awesome designer and engineer.
Awesome, thanks! 🙂 The nuts are called 'threaded inserts'.
Leon van den Beukel I really need those. Thank you, have a nice weekend.
Great job!
Love ur work!
Thanks!
This is excellent, far better thought out than the one I tried to make a few years ago. How precise is the machine, and can it cut metals?
Robbie
Hi Robbie, thanks. The X and Y axis are pretty accurate but the Z axis need some improvement (it cuts a little to deep). I'm not sure if it's because of the weight of the router or if it's just a matter of tuning the Z steps setting. Except for thin aluminium maybe, I don't think that this machine can cut metal. It's probably not strong enough. Also the router that I have does'nt have a variable speed control (for metal you need slower rpm) and also cooling would be a problem (the base is wood so I can't use cooling fluids).
Leon van den Beukel
Thanks, im trying to make a small CNC to mill aluminium, so these are important things for me to bear in mind. Even so, I think ill try to make it anyway.
Robbie
Top, echt tolle Arbeit 👍👍👍👍
Thanks 😃
Is it possible to have pdf of all those designed plastic parts please?
Please check my newer design and link to stl files in description: ua-cam.com/video/24RslguGy58/v-deo.html
Great work! What the screw you are using in 10:38?
M6 insert nut
Great idea! How is long term stability? How is environment humidity affect the wood? It look pretty stable anyhow. Can you keep us updated on long term performance?
comment on fait si on n'a pas une imprimante 3D pour creer la parties de fixation
merci
which software did you use to print your parts?
the support of bridges looks fantastique!!
and a hell of a great job btw!
Thanks, I use Cura for slicing and printing.
1.Did you use heated bed to print pla . 2 what adhesion did you use to stick pal so well on bed .. Great tutorial and dedication dude..
Hi Benny, I use gluestick and a glass plate. Yes, it's a heated bed. Thanks.
Hi, great job! What is the router model? Makita M3700?
Thanks! Yes it is a Makita M3700.
Awesome, great job BRAVO
This is neat.
Amazing work it’s a pleasure to see it! May I ask you which 3D Printer you use? I am working on my fist printer from a German book, where I build most of the parts by my own. It will be made out of wood so it’s very interesting to see which great quality your printed parts have.
It's an Anet A8
What price the 4×6 printer by make
great work my friend =)
watched it well.
I have a question
What is a cam program?
Ik mostly use Fusion 360 and Easel by Inventables
how much it costs you to build it?
I like it.
what 3d printer have you used to make these things?
It's an Anet A8
How thick can plywood be cut with this machine?
This was my first version, you better look to my V3 (there's also a video about that). That machine can cut most of the plywoods with multiple passes depending on the type of ply wood and the tool cutter you're using.
@@LeonvandenBeukel That is, 15 mm and 20 mm will cut normally?
hello, great video, thanks :) 👍
Probably if you use stronger frame and stepper motors it could work in some soft metals like aluminium.
Awesome videos, love watching you build awesome things, was wondering we're you get the files for cnc machine to 3d print, thanks
I've designed it with Fusion 360. Check the GitHub link in the description for more info.
I am no expert but i think the stepper drivers are a bit small for this build. Just saying though!
What about this cost to india...ie....mini cnc engraving machine....
Good job sir
this is great!
Nice. I build the MPCNC. But eventually I will try out this CNC. Btw. I have the same router ;)
Awesome :)
great work :o
very good very much like it
trop fort!!!!!
bravo
Where do you learn that?
I love It!
How well does it do 3d carving? Dying to know
Hi Chris, I haven't tried that so I don't know. Do you know what (free or open source) software I should use for that?
I will first say that my experience in CNC is "absolute 0"... I am extremely interested in the subject and the idea of building my own seems challenging and fun.
That said, my preliminary research shows a couple of options.. none are amazing..
For testing purposes, there are free trials of 3d carving software available like Artclip3d or MeshCAM
User "Nevaehy" on Reddit seems to have created his own software, and I have yet to try it.
Also, "Slicer for Fusion 360" might be a free option? I am chasing down that rabbit hole now.
again, I have 0 experience, but I am excited to learn!
Cooperation request:
Hi dear sir,could you tell me how to contact you?we want to cooperate with you,look forward to your reply,thank you.