that's a great idea, I wish we had those bottles in the U.K. alas we get our pills in boxes so I use a Red Grass Games painting handle. It comes with a magnetic sticker and the handle has a magnet in the base so for one armed painters like me it is really useful and it only costs about £12, it sounds as though it works the same as your pill bottle setup, comes with a putty for attaching the model to the handle and the tops are replacable as well as rotating.
Dry fit every part before glueing, if your working with resin make sure to wash the parts in warm soapy water and leave to soak overnight and then wash again the next day (that’s my method anyway), when removing mould lines use the back of the hobby knife not the actual blade, most plastic kits have numbered parts so don’t remove everything off the sprue at once and only take off the parts you need, that’s what I can think of off the top of my head
For my first model I removed all parts... it was a Dreadnought, so quite a few Options... but in the End we managed to fit everything together, still... yeah, you either learn this the hard way or some good people give you a hint beforehand.
If your looking for cheap transportation for model. Get one of those clear plastic containers. Get mangenric sheets x bet magents is not great FYI. You can aslo grt sheet metal but you will need to cut, fill it, then glue it on the plastic. Remember it METAl! The magnetic sheets are easier to apply. Make sure you can fit your vehicles into the container as well! Wait 24 hours for drying Get magets and glue it under tye base fo the model. Morning glory can help you with bolt action he has a video on it. MAKE SURE to not glue the side that will stick onto the magnetic or else it your gonna have to flip it over. I say 1 or 2 for infantry and 4 for vehicles. If the models have not bad than try putting it underneath. After filling that then your miles should be magnetic to the box and you can take them with you. That my best advice for saving money. As always BE CAREFUL! Also if you want people have already done videos on this kind of transportation.
Many years ago, before I had the tools I have now, I was assembling an RC car. All I had was glue and a scalpel (an actual scalpel I stole from a hospital) no cutting matt or owt. I decided the best surface for cutting was my lap, while wearing shorts! The scalpel slipped and the blade buried into my thigh, I nicked an artery. Praise the Omnisiah for the NHS, that would have been an expensive trip if I'd been in the U.S. but I was home in England so all I had to pay for was new carpet 😂 there was much blood. 10 out of 10 I don't recommend using ones lap as a cutting surface. Ahh, the days when both my legs still worked 😝
A bunch of different small-medium sized Bins/Drawyers. Gotta store those Extra Bits SOMEWHERE, and having them bei at least organized by Model Size, Faction, Unit Type or Part Type makes it a LOT easier to do Kitbashing.
Sta-wet sponges can be found from art supply stores for like 4 for 5$ and each lasts a long time. Well worth it. I'd add 2 good hobbie/led desk lights as essentials, one on each side of the desk.
The three things I would add are silly putty, wooden sticks, and double sided tape. You didn't touch on priming, and they or substitutes are critical, and even become more important if you get an airbrush.
From firsthand experience, some kind of face mask to protect from various fumes. Notice I got really tired and had difficult to focus when I started with the hobby and then my mom suggested that maybe the fumes weren’t too good for me (I’m 27) and that I should try a mask. So now I use a fan blowing the fumes from plastic “glue” and use a mask when dabbling with enamels, spaycans, super glue activator (thought the allergic shock would kill me), and other similar products. It’s easy to forget that those products can be very harmful when you see others use them care free on the internet :)
Can’t go wrong with a set of small files. Great for removing mound lines and rough edges. Now if your like me and love doing conversions, a jewelers saw or a modelers saw is a must. A dremel drill with various attachments and tools is needed for older metal miniature, like my Valhallan Ice Warriors. But be very careful. I mean very very careful! Might even need to invest in a small table top vice to hold the miniature. Because running a small drill bit through your finger sickening painful experience. Handicrafts, where did you find your pinvice and drill bits? That is a nice set and I am shopping for a new set.
I know it sounds dumb but I brought myself some rubber thimbles for when I’m using my hobby knife and they’ve been absolutely life changing because now I can be as reckless as I damn well please with none of the consequences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (Remember kids: do as I say, not as I do)
As a painting goblin; Avoid army painters, their metallic are ok, but tools are usually shit. GW is ok, except for white. PRO Acrylic whites are the best whites
AK Interactive have some very good white paints but you have to make sure that it's their 3rd gen paints. I use mostly Pro Acryl (their primer is the best I've used, similar to Stynylrez in finish but far easier to apply and not as sensitive to temperature regarding storage and transportation) Ak Interactive 3rd Gen and Kimera. All excellent paint.
The Best cheap paint handle I have used is a pill bottle with a twist lock. Poster tack it and you have a handle the spins!
that's a great idea, I wish we had those bottles in the U.K. alas we get our pills in boxes so I use a Red Grass Games painting handle. It comes with a magnetic sticker and the handle has a magnet in the base so for one armed painters like me it is really useful and it only costs about £12, it sounds as though it works the same as your pill bottle setup, comes with a putty for attaching the model to the handle and the tops are replacable as well as rotating.
Dry fit every part before glueing, if your working with resin make sure to wash the parts in warm soapy water and leave to soak overnight and then wash again the next day (that’s my method anyway), when removing mould lines use the back of the hobby knife not the actual blade, most plastic kits have numbered parts so don’t remove everything off the sprue at once and only take off the parts you need, that’s what I can think of off the top of my head
For my first model I removed all parts... it was a Dreadnought, so quite a few Options... but in the End we managed to fit everything together, still... yeah, you either learn this the hard way or some good people give you a hint beforehand.
Jim Lore video when?
Personally I think that more hobbyists should use a kogatana for trimming mold lines
“When edge highlighting those tactical marines”
Me who just lightly dry brushes: ._.
If your looking for cheap transportation for model. Get one of those clear plastic containers. Get mangenric sheets x bet magents is not great FYI. You can aslo grt sheet metal but you will need to cut, fill it, then glue it on the plastic. Remember it METAl! The magnetic sheets are easier to apply. Make sure you can fit your vehicles into the container as well! Wait 24 hours for drying
Get magets and glue it under tye base fo the model. Morning glory can help you with bolt action he has a video on it. MAKE SURE to not glue the side that will stick onto the magnetic or else it your gonna have to flip it over. I say 1 or 2 for infantry and 4 for vehicles. If the models have not bad than try putting it underneath.
After filling that then your miles should be magnetic to the box and you can take them with you. That my best advice for saving money. As always BE CAREFUL! Also if you want people have already done videos on this kind of transportation.
Good video just what a constant noob like me needed thank you!
Many years ago, before I had the tools I have now, I was assembling an RC car. All I had was glue and a scalpel (an actual scalpel I stole from a hospital) no cutting matt or owt. I decided the best surface for cutting was my lap, while wearing shorts! The scalpel slipped and the blade buried into my thigh, I nicked an artery. Praise the Omnisiah for the NHS, that would have been an expensive trip if I'd been in the U.S. but I was home in England so all I had to pay for was new carpet 😂 there was much blood. 10 out of 10 I don't recommend using ones lap as a cutting surface. Ahh, the days when both my legs still worked 😝
A bunch of different small-medium sized Bins/Drawyers.
Gotta store those Extra Bits SOMEWHERE, and having them bei at least organized by Model Size, Faction, Unit Type or Part Type makes it a LOT easier to do Kitbashing.
Sta-wet sponges can be found from art supply stores for like 4 for 5$ and each lasts a long time. Well worth it.
I'd add 2 good hobbie/led desk lights as essentials, one on each side of the desk.
The three things I would add are silly putty, wooden sticks, and double sided tape. You didn't touch on priming, and they or substitutes are critical, and even become more important if you get an airbrush.
From firsthand experience, some kind of face mask to protect from various fumes. Notice I got really tired and had difficult to focus when I started with the hobby and then my mom suggested that maybe the fumes weren’t too good for me (I’m 27) and that I should try a mask. So now I use a fan blowing the fumes from plastic “glue” and use a mask when dabbling with enamels, spaycans, super glue activator (thought the allergic shock would kill me), and other similar products.
It’s easy to forget that those products can be very harmful when you see others use them care free on the internet :)
Can’t go wrong with a set of small files. Great for removing mound lines and rough edges.
Now if your like me and love doing conversions, a jewelers saw or a modelers saw is a must. A dremel drill with various attachments and tools is needed for older metal miniature, like my Valhallan Ice Warriors. But be very careful. I mean very very careful! Might even need to invest in a small table top vice to hold the miniature. Because running a small drill bit through your finger sickening painful experience.
Handicrafts, where did you find your pinvice and drill bits? That is a nice set and I am shopping for a new set.
Thank you, your help is much appreciated. I’ll definitely shop around there.
@@Handi_Crafts those drill bits are extremely fragile, I had one snap and go between my finger and finger nail. Twas rather painful.
1: a 3d printer.
2: a legaly distinct collection of 3d models not too dissimilar from the actual models they may want to acquire.
I know it sounds dumb but I brought myself some rubber thimbles for when I’m using my hobby knife and they’ve been absolutely life changing because now I can be as reckless as I damn well please with none of the consequences.
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(Remember kids: do as I say, not as I do)
Wow very nice and beautiful video I love it thanks for sharing from USA 🇺🇸
Oof left out the Pencil eraser for dryfitting
As a painting goblin; Avoid army painters, their metallic are ok, but tools are usually shit. GW is ok, except for white. PRO Acrylic whites are the best whites
AK Interactive have some very good white paints but you have to make sure that it's their 3rd gen paints. I use mostly Pro Acryl (their primer is the best I've used, similar to Stynylrez in finish but far easier to apply and not as sensitive to temperature regarding storage and transportation) Ak Interactive 3rd Gen and Kimera. All excellent paint.
Don't drink the paint water. That is all
PAINting lmao
YEEHAW
For the Algorithm!