I had the same situation and ended up removing the knuckle and soaking the seized part in PB blaster over night - was able to brake them apart after that. Thanks for the video!
I do enough of these (in New england) that I don't even bother with pullers anymore, I take the entire knuckle off and take it straight to the press. Takes me about half an hour plus the alignment
Yes, I am in Indiana. I have done so many of these I do the same thing just take off the knuckle and press the bearing out. I always replace the backing plate as they are not too expensive and Subaru TSB on the rear states that was the cause of the early failure anyways. Thanks for the comment .
Hitting it with the air hammer on the wrong side. Hit it with "liquid wench" and go smoke a joint. Come back and start hitting the hub side of the bearing housing with an air hammer near each bolt hole top and bottom. Once it twists go to the axle side with the air hammer. Make sure shaft is loose so you don't blow out the abs sensor.
What’s the part number on this add on kit? I’m ordering the suby/ford set right now and I’d prefer to get this at the same time. Appreciate the video, I live up in British Columbia’s rust belt in the mountains around Whistler. People love Subarus up here, and salt loves to eat Subarus.
To tell you the truth, I cannot find a part number on it, nor can I find it on their website. They sent me that add on kit because they wanted me to make a video demonstration, and at the time called it the "Tommy+". It is possible that it hasn't been added to their website yet. I would call and ask about it and if you mention my video they should know what you're talking about depending on who you talk to. Also, whistler is a dream vacation of mine. Snow and rust aside I bet living there is amazing!! Thanks for watching and good luck with everything. If I can help you out with anything else let me know.
Update: I was told by one of the tool distributors I deal with that this add-on kit will become available sometime in October '22. It was in prototype stages for awhile but will be debuted at a tool show around that time and shortly after it will be included in the subaru kit for if/when this happens.
Inner race stuck on the axle. Does that happen often? In old pressed on wheel bearings it would stick on the stub shaft, but that was already out. Presumably you deal with it the same way, score the race with a grinding wheel, than tap on the edge to break it and slide it off. Too close to the axle grease and bearing to heat it. The only knock against the Promaxx is cost.
That tool is nice. But man all that pressure on the axle pushing into the differential. I would think twice before doing that. What actually works well and costs almost nothing. I keep bolts identical to the original one that hold the bearing into the knuckle on hand. Then thread two into the bearing assy. half way from the back side as normal. Then get an air hammer with an actual hammer end in it. Hammer away on the heads of the bolts from the back side. You are on a lift. I raise the lift all the way up and hammer away. The bearing comes out in no time. I am a tech in the Northeastern salt belt. So I know what you mean by rust.
So it is a bit of trickery in the design but there is no pressure or even any contact on the axle. The inside plate is whats bolted to the remaining bearing so thats what's pulling it out, the outer plate has those 3 lehs that apply the pressing force to the steel backing plate and ultimately the knuckle. So thankfully no real damage can occur. And yes that method used to be my go-to, it does work quite well!!
@@nickquatrini ooooo I see what you mean now. It uses the three pins through the wheel stud holes. That was my fault. I am always looking for easier ways to get the job done. Saw this tool awhile back. Just now doing a little research. Thanks for the info brother
How do you do it without this tool or the hub buster? I have my brothers subaru that did this to me tonight after a 12 hour shift then start working on his car then this happens. So I quit for tonight going back tomorrow but worst thing is, I have an exhaust I'm supposed to do to make extra money tomorrow also and I might miss out because I can't leave my brother stranded... please if you can help that would be greatly appreciated 🙏 thank you, hope to talk to you soon and hope you're doing well.
That is a tough situation. If you are from the north where snow and road salt is heavily used it is going to fight you. But your best bet is to thread the bolts in about halfway then use an air hammer on the bolt heads from the back to try and drive the bearing out. If you are successful you may still need new bolts from the subaru dealer. If that doesn't work, then your next option would be to take the bolts back out and use said air hammer and get a chisel bit in through the side where the knuckle and the steel backing plate meet. Driving the chisel in between those two will force them apart. I have seen this method used many times and it almost always works but it almost always boogers up the knuckle and backing plate, on which case you need a die grinder with a sanding disc to smooth it back out and a drill to re-drill the holes as they tend to oval when doing that. In your case though I think air tools will be a necessity, so if you dont have any, try to borrow an air compressor from someone and grab an air hammer it will be your best friend.
I had the same situation and ended up removing the knuckle and soaking the seized part in PB blaster over night - was able to brake them apart after that. Thanks for the video!
I do enough of these (in New england) that I don't even bother with pullers anymore, I take the entire knuckle off and take it straight to the press. Takes me about half an hour plus the alignment
Not a bad idea. If we didn't have this tool thats exactly what I would do 👍
Yes, I am in Indiana. I have done so many of these I do the same thing just take off the knuckle and press the bearing out. I always replace the backing plate as they are not too expensive and Subaru TSB on the rear states that was the cause of the early failure anyways. Thanks for the comment .
The Tommy just magically attached itself. It’s magic. derp
Hitting it with the air hammer on the wrong side. Hit it with "liquid wench" and go smoke a joint. Come back and start hitting the hub side of the bearing housing with an air hammer near each bolt hole top and bottom. Once it twists go to the axle side with the air hammer. Make sure shaft is loose so you don't blow out the abs sensor.
What’s the part number on this add on kit? I’m ordering the suby/ford set right now and I’d prefer to get this at the same time.
Appreciate the video, I live up in British Columbia’s rust belt in the mountains around Whistler. People love Subarus up here, and salt loves to eat Subarus.
To tell you the truth, I cannot find a part number on it, nor can I find it on their website. They sent me that add on kit because they wanted me to make a video demonstration, and at the time called it the "Tommy+". It is possible that it hasn't been added to their website yet. I would call and ask about it and if you mention my video they should know what you're talking about depending on who you talk to.
Also, whistler is a dream vacation of mine. Snow and rust aside I bet living there is amazing!!
Thanks for watching and good luck with everything. If I can help you out with anything else let me know.
Update: I was told by one of the tool distributors I deal with that this add-on kit will become available sometime in October '22. It was in prototype stages for awhile but will be debuted at a tool show around that time and shortly after it will be included in the subaru kit for if/when this happens.
Inner race stuck on the axle. Does that happen often? In old pressed on wheel bearings it would stick on the stub shaft, but that was already out. Presumably you deal with it the same way, score the race with a grinding wheel, than tap on the edge to break it and slide it off. Too close to the axle grease and bearing to heat it. The only knock against the Promaxx is cost.
Inner race should not stick on the axle, must be rusty if it does. But yeah sounds like that's a good way to remove it
That tool is nice. But man all that pressure on the axle pushing into the differential. I would think twice before doing that. What actually works well and costs almost nothing. I keep bolts identical to the original one that hold the bearing into the knuckle on hand. Then thread two into the bearing assy. half way from the back side as normal. Then get an air hammer with an actual hammer end in it. Hammer away on the heads of the bolts from the back side. You are on a lift. I raise the lift all the way up and hammer away. The bearing comes out in no time. I am a tech in the Northeastern salt belt. So I know what you mean by rust.
So it is a bit of trickery in the design but there is no pressure or even any contact on the axle. The inside plate is whats bolted to the remaining bearing so thats what's pulling it out, the outer plate has those 3 lehs that apply the pressing force to the steel backing plate and ultimately the knuckle. So thankfully no real damage can occur. And yes that method used to be my go-to, it does work quite well!!
@@nickquatrini ooooo I see what you mean now. It uses the three pins through the wheel stud holes. That was my fault. I am always looking for easier ways to get the job done. Saw this tool awhile back. Just now doing a little research. Thanks for the info brother
Thanks!
just throw the whole car away
Sometimes, I wish I could lol
Granted we have the tool at the shop... Just pop the knuckle off and beat it out from the back side.
How do you do it without this tool or the hub buster? I have my brothers subaru that did this to me tonight after a 12 hour shift then start working on his car then this happens. So I quit for tonight going back tomorrow but worst thing is, I have an exhaust I'm supposed to do to make extra money tomorrow also and I might miss out because I can't leave my brother stranded... please if you can help that would be greatly appreciated 🙏 thank you, hope to talk to you soon and hope you're doing well.
That is a tough situation. If you are from the north where snow and road salt is heavily used it is going to fight you. But your best bet is to thread the bolts in about halfway then use an air hammer on the bolt heads from the back to try and drive the bearing out. If you are successful you may still need new bolts from the subaru dealer. If that doesn't work, then your next option would be to take the bolts back out and use said air hammer and get a chisel bit in through the side where the knuckle and the steel backing plate meet. Driving the chisel in between those two will force them apart. I have seen this method used many times and it almost always works but it almost always boogers up the knuckle and backing plate, on which case you need a die grinder with a sanding disc to smooth it back out and a drill to re-drill the holes as they tend to oval when doing that. In your case though I think air tools will be a necessity, so if you dont have any, try to borrow an air compressor from someone and grab an air hammer it will be your best friend.
Wow that look awesome
Yeah it's hard work sometimes but thank goodness we have this tool go get us out of this mess!!