In my 2013 WK2 I have the Alpine system. The Sub is okay but what really helps is replacing the front door 6x9 component speakers. I put in Infinity Reference and the overall bass and clarity of the entire system is drastically improved. Ended up doing the back doors with Infinity as well and again another notable improvement. Tons of warm bass now and don't have to mess with ripping the back apart.
@@rossbourne809 Yes. The Jeep factory crossovers work beautifully with the Infinity component speakers. I just picked up some Chrysler speaker wiring harnesses from Amazon for $10 (4 pack) so I could just plug n play the speakers. You could splice speaker wires to but the harnesses make it super easy. Back doors were a straight swap very simple after you get the door panels off.
@capnfixit1222 did you ever do it? and if so how did it turn out? I have a 2015 GC Summit w/ the harman kardon & the subwoofer has been sounding muddy for months now
I took stock plastic box used fiberglass resin and wooden dowels and sound dampening material to strengthen it and stop it from flexing . Hooked up a line output converter . Changed the stock sub to a JL 8w3 and hooked up a 500/1 JL slash amp . Replaced the front speakers 6x9 with JL c3 the tweeters JL c5’s center dash speaker JL c2 also rear b pillars 3.5” c2 JL’s added JL c5 6.5” in the rear doors ran the sub on its own amp kept the rest with the stock “alpine amp” that isn’t an alpine amp it’s a Chrysler amp so I got ripped off . Same with all the stock speakers . I removed all 9 were junk and not an alpine badge anywhere . My system sounds great now 1000 times better . I also took the under driver seat lid and dynomated it cut a hole used mdf spacer ring on each side to make more ridged and added a second JL 8w3 it would also fit a 6.5” or even a 10tw3,shallow mounted 10” JL sub as I bought a second lid to try which sounded best in that space . Needed to spray foam the inside a little to get rid of the plastic rattle sound but there’s a space under the driver seat that I have an 8w3 that pounds and blows away the stock system . My only complaint with mine is the rear door the c5s aren’t sounding good either the signal isn’t good or it needs its own amp . I bought a JL fix 86 to try but I haven’t got around to installing it yet . I should have documented this I guess there aren’t many videos and I’ve never seen anyone add a sub under the driver seat cubby like I did .
Cool video man, I have a 2014 Jeep grand cherokee limited and also think of replacing my stock sub to an aftermarket. Also was that a tornado warning in the background lol 😆
The door speakers and tweeters are pretty good with the alpine system but the subwoofer is a joke I have a jgc 80th edition also with the alpine system and when listening to bass heavy songs the sub begins to make a popping sound, will be definitely swapping it with a shallow 8” kicker, kenwood etc.
Part of your issue is your using the factory amp to power the aftermarket sub. The Factory sub is a DVC and you are only using a single channel to power your new sub. You need to replace it with a DVC sub with high efficiency for it to be an "upgrade" using the factory amp.
Thank you for that information, honestly. I have always wanted to beef up the sub but I need the cargo area of my jeep because of overlanding. I thought it would help cuz I followed another YTer's advice, but it got me nowhere. Any ideas on what DVC I should look at? And maybe if I get it working I could make an updated video
I have a jgc 80th edition with the alpine system and all the other speakers sound great except the sub, when listening to bass heavy songs it makes a popping sound so for me personally I do believe it’s definitely worth swapping it for say like a kicker or kenwood or something along those lines, preferably a 8” shallow sub
I apparently need to replace the amp on my 2013 GC. I'm told it's behind the driver's rear cargo area quarter panel trim. Thought it would be easy to access but from your vid it seems you have to dismantle many more items than I want to deal with.
You can compare the size of the magnets but you also have to take into consideration the type of magnet. A Ferrite magnet can be big and heavy but a Neodymium magnet can be tiny and light weight but just as strong
yeah they throw a "key disabled" or "key malfunction" error and you dont know it until you undo what you did. happened when i was spicing a kisloc2 in the B pillar speaker wires incorrectly.
I agree with what the one guy said. That's really just the wrong sub for that system. That Kenwood has a 78 db efficiency, you're only using half the power too, if the factory sub is dual voice coil. Measure the ohms resistance on the factory one, and try to match that. Also, get something with higher efficiency. The Pioneer low profile model seems to have good stats. If your system has noise canceling, you may get a weird hum through the sub after changing it out, which would then require you to bypass it. You'll want to look up how to bypass the ANC module for that. I honestly don't like to just swap the sub out and use the factory box, but a budget is a budget...
@@thedetailhotlap I'm going to be very blunt though, unless your factory sub is damaged, it's hard to improve on it with aftermarket. Factory speakers tend to be very high efficiency, but don't handle much power. If you really want boom, you'll need a real amp for an aftermarket sub, and probably a better box. However, I have seen people use fiberglass and resin to strengthen factory enclosures. Another note, if you pick a speaker with a vented pole, and the magnet assembly is close to, or touching the bottom of your enclosure, the voice coil will probably overheat. I've seen people drill out an appropriate hole in the rear to vent the sub, then use strips of sealant to seal the enclosure to the magnet assembly.
In my 2013 WK2 I have the Alpine system. The Sub is okay but what really helps is replacing the front door 6x9 component speakers. I put in Infinity Reference and the overall bass and clarity of the entire system is drastically improved. Ended up doing the back doors with Infinity as well and again another notable improvement. Tons of warm bass now and don't have to mess with ripping the back apart.
did you just straight replace them? like plug & play?
@@rossbourne809 Yes. The Jeep factory crossovers work beautifully with the Infinity component speakers. I just picked up some Chrysler speaker wiring harnesses from Amazon for $10 (4 pack) so I could just plug n play the speakers. You could splice speaker wires to but the harnesses make it super easy. Back doors were a straight swap very simple after you get the door panels off.
@@PCPAyLOAD I might make a video on this! Thank you for the idea!
@@PCPAyLOAD which model did you buy?
@@Fr4nkSanchez Infinity Reference 9630c 6x9" and Infinity Reference 6532ix 6 1/2"
Thank you for the video!!! I've had this project on my radar for a long time. I have the Harman Kardon system.
@capnfixit1222 did you ever do it? and if so how did it turn out? I have a 2015 GC Summit w/ the harman kardon & the subwoofer has been sounding muddy for months now
I took stock plastic box used fiberglass resin and wooden dowels and sound dampening material to strengthen it and stop it from flexing .
Hooked up a line output converter . Changed the stock sub to a JL 8w3 and hooked up a 500/1 JL slash amp .
Replaced the front speakers 6x9 with JL c3 the tweeters JL c5’s center dash speaker JL c2 also rear b pillars 3.5” c2 JL’s added JL c5 6.5” in the rear doors ran the sub on its own amp kept the rest with the stock “alpine amp” that isn’t an alpine amp it’s a Chrysler amp so I got ripped off . Same with all the stock speakers .
I removed all 9 were junk and not an alpine badge anywhere . My system sounds great now 1000 times better .
I also took the under driver seat lid and dynomated it cut a hole used mdf spacer ring on each side to make more ridged and added a second JL 8w3 it would also fit a 6.5” or even a 10tw3,shallow mounted 10” JL sub as I bought a second lid to try which sounded best in that space .
Needed to spray foam the inside a little to get rid of the plastic rattle sound but there’s a space under the driver seat that I have an 8w3 that pounds and blows away the stock system .
My only complaint with mine is the rear door the c5s aren’t sounding good either the signal isn’t good or it needs its own amp . I bought a JL fix 86 to try but I haven’t got around to installing it yet .
I should have documented this I guess there aren’t many videos and I’ve never seen anyone add a sub under the driver seat cubby like I did .
Great step by step demo, I'm doing this same project to my wK2, this vudeo was very helpful amd informative 👍🏼
great! glad you liked it
Cool video man, I have a 2014 Jeep grand cherokee limited and also think of replacing my stock sub to an aftermarket. Also was that a tornado warning in the background lol 😆
Thanks man I don’t have the subwoofer but the right corner trim pulled out suddenly and I wasn’t sure how to remove it to chick what is the issue
That's a lot of work man, Jesus. I just purchased a grand Cherokee with the upgraded alpine system.
It sure is, but I just wanted to give it a try
The door speakers and tweeters are pretty good with the alpine system but the subwoofer is a joke I have a jgc 80th edition also with the alpine system and when listening to bass heavy songs the sub begins to make a popping sound, will be definitely swapping it with a shallow 8” kicker, kenwood etc.
My Guy Finally a Video worth watching 🙌👍. How can you tell if you have the Pioneer or Harmon sound system ??
Part of your issue is your using the factory amp to power the aftermarket sub. The Factory sub is a DVC and you are only using a single channel to power your new sub. You need to replace it with a DVC sub with high efficiency for it to be an "upgrade" using the factory amp.
Thank you for that information, honestly. I have always wanted to beef up the sub but I need the cargo area of my jeep because of overlanding. I thought it would help cuz I followed another YTer's advice, but it got me nowhere. Any ideas on what DVC I should look at? And maybe if I get it working I could make an updated video
@@thedetailhotlap I would reach out to Crutchfield they have experts that can guide you in the right direction
@@thedetailhotlap id search on crutchfield or something for a 8" Shallow Depth DVC, and I believe a 2-ohm.
I have a jgc 80th edition with the alpine system and all the other speakers sound great except the sub, when listening to bass heavy songs it makes a popping sound so for me personally I do believe it’s definitely worth swapping it for say like a kicker or kenwood or something along those lines, preferably a 8” shallow sub
I would agree, but I would need to add an amplifier though
Go with Rockford Fosgate....you can thank me later 👍
@@nestortrinidad8285 thnak you, which rockford do you recommend
@@thedetailhotlap yeah a 500/1 would be great
I apparently need to replace the amp on my 2013 GC. I'm told it's behind the driver's rear cargo area quarter panel trim. Thought it would be easy to access but from your vid it seems you have to dismantle many more items than I want to deal with.
It's a little bit of a process to get to
how big is the subwoffer???
You can compare the size of the magnets but you also have to take into consideration the type of magnet. A Ferrite magnet can be big and heavy but a Neodymium magnet can be tiny and light weight but just as strong
Yes, thank you for this information. I am not well informed on how variable sizes of magnets affect vs. types of magnet.
If you forget to plug the switch @5:55 back in the vehicle won't start just a FYI
yeah they throw a "key disabled" or "key malfunction" error and you dont know it until you undo what you did. happened when i was spicing a kisloc2 in the B pillar speaker wires incorrectly.
What size is the sub that can fit
Which model they have Harman kardon speakers bro
Is the factory amplifier located near the subwoofer?
It's on the driver side of the vehicle. It's not your normal amplifier.
@@thedetailhotlap drivers side in the back of truck?? Been wanting to change mine for 2019 jgc
I agree with what the one guy said. That's really just the wrong sub for that system. That Kenwood has a 78 db efficiency, you're only using half the power too, if the factory sub is dual voice coil. Measure the ohms resistance on the factory one, and try to match that. Also, get something with higher efficiency. The Pioneer low profile model seems to have good stats.
If your system has noise canceling, you may get a weird hum through the sub after changing it out, which would then require you to bypass it. You'll want to look up how to bypass the ANC module for that.
I honestly don't like to just swap the sub out and use the factory box, but a budget is a budget...
thank you for that detailed comment. Maybe I will do an updated video soon!
@@thedetailhotlap I'm going to be very blunt though, unless your factory sub is damaged, it's hard to improve on it with aftermarket. Factory speakers tend to be very high efficiency, but don't handle much power. If you really want boom, you'll need a real amp for an aftermarket sub, and probably a better box. However, I have seen people use fiberglass and resin to strengthen factory enclosures.
Another note, if you pick a speaker with a vented pole, and the magnet assembly is close to, or touching the bottom of your enclosure, the voice coil will probably overheat. I've seen people drill out an appropriate hole in the rear to vent the sub, then use strips of sealant to seal the enclosure to the magnet assembly.
@@thedetailhotlap Did you ever measure the Ohms on the factory speaker? do you still have it lying around for a test?
would this also work for my 2019 cherokee (not grand)
Yes, but I would honestly keep it stock
You use vampire clamps on a high draw sub woofer... think that says it all.
Thanks for your feedback! Come again :)
Bro I got the same jeep grand cherokee and I just put so 12's in it
I don't have room for that, I use my trunk too often
That is is the worst design in the world! Come on Jeep. Why make that job so complicated??