7.3 idi Straight Pipe and Wiring Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Jeff deletes the muffler off his truck so we can finally hear the full sound of the idi again. He also fixes the old power wiring in the engine conpartment.
Engine specs: 92 7.3 idi na
Sleeved
Turbo pistons and rods
Total seal rings
Arp studs
R&D cam
R&D pump
R&D intake and exhaust manifolds
Comp cam valvesprings
Stock compression
Turbo: hx35/40hybrid
R&D downpipe
3.55 gears
Factory limited slip
zf 5 - Авто та транспорт
![[UA] Team Vitality проти NAVI | IEM Cologne 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wttO1zVRTC0/mqdefault.jpg)
Kind of way too late here, but i have a pair of rav4 buckets with threaded pipe ends welded to the floor. No arm rests, but the windowsills are the right height and the oem center console would be pretty good if i had one that survived.
Edit: had an 89 ranger v6 with a massive alt (180? Vs the stock 60) parallel wired like that. It had just a touch more resistance than the stock circuit so if that ever blew it had a very heavy backup circuit. Well done!
3 years ago......Man, I just looked for updated videos on your channel and dont see anything. Am I missing something?
Put that check value in fuel filter trust me it helps any questions im here
Beautiful truck. 3 upgrades I highly recommend you try out.
1. Move your batteries to the back. The weight distribution is so much better and it creates an amazing amount of room under the hood, everything is easier to get to etc...extra benefit the front end raises up about an inch and the truck handles much better. Amazingly better.
2. Remove the exhaust and put a stack on it. Why? Just a sec and I'll tell you.
3. Remove the front tank and replace with a tank in the bed. I use a 72 g tank from an old dump truck. Why?...look under your truck now.
With the exhaust system gone and the front tank gone from und the beast...you now have ease of access for repairs. It's all in the open like a big truck. Your drive line, transmission and differential are all out in the open. Now for the fourth upgrade.
4. Check out the fwd section in jeg's and summitt...the replacement tank for late seventies early eighties bronco...there are several to choose from. I have the 38 g tank. Along with the 72 g in the bed of the beast I have 110 gallons of fuel.
I almost forgot...before I added the Garrett turbo I built my own propane injection kit. Pulling a 7,000lb load at 70+mph the beast got 27 mpg. I doubt the mpg would be any higher with the turbo...but that's kind of a right foot determined, hard to nail down due wildly varying driving habits...type equation.
I have the smaller exhaust housing with 4" down pipe going to 5" after about 16"...5" the rest of the way. 1 mandrel bend for the stack. Made a noticeable difference over the 4" all the way out the back. I never had mine on a dyno...my guesstimate is maybe 225-235hp and about 500ftlbs on the torque. I'm old now...lol, and "ease of access upgrades are top priority in my book. I hope you can use an idea or 3 shared here...good luck. Mind if i....SMOKE? another suggestion...if you go to Colorado for any reason, back of the fuel screw for sure. State trooper pulled me over. He was intensely upset about the "haze" I trailed...(wasn't even black smoke)...
I dont want to loose the space in the bed for a fuel tank im happy with the size i have now, i have a much bigger than stock turbo with a true 4inch downpipe going 4" straight piped out the back now dont think thats restrictive at all. And instead of propane i have been really thinking of doing water meth instead
I know I'm late to the comments here, but one of those custom wood consoles would look sweet in there with that red interior. Hey, make sure that your front cup holders are heated and cooled. 😎 Most of the Centurion trucks of this vintage had that as an option if they had the console. Sweet ride so far, sir! Keep it up!
That's the plan!
Late comment but do you know where you can get that cup holder console?
I advise doing a oil bypass filtration system and oil cooler once you turbo these and push the boost you often run into high oil temps when towing you want your oil temps to stay around 195f-210f above this you start oxidizing the oil quickly and breaking down the detergeant package and start coking up the motor internally and its really hard on the turbo also I use the port on the engine down by the exhaust manifold on drivers side the ear just outside of where the transmission mounts for my oil feed to my bypass filtration and oil cooler I use a descent sized transmission cooler mounted in front of the intercooler / radiator for my oil cooler and use wix 51749 filter and wix filter mount 24750 and run the motorcraft FL1995 main oil filter this will add alot of life to our motors as a tow rig and helps deal with the increased power and increased soot load / heat added to the oil and such
as for the fuel filter remove that fuel filter setup use a 6.9 fuel filter head mount it on the frame after the holey red fuel pump and do anything you can to keep your fuel pressure WOT between 4-6 psi and try to avoid going over 8psi 9psi and above will mess with the internal timing advance in the injection pump below 4psi also messes with it a bit and can cause cavitation inside the transfer pump inside the injection pump also delete the line going from the filter head to the fuel injector just under it not needed at all and is actually a bad thing it causes our trucks to have alot of hard starts and other issues because if a single return cap is leaking will allow all the fuel in the filter head to flow back to the tank and then you have to crank and crank and crank to get the air out that filled the entire fuel system from the air seaping into system from the injector cap then thru the filter head.
Exactly how I was gunna do it
What kind of muffler do you have on the 7.3 idk you have
If you haven’t yet, get rid of the stock fuel filter housing, Mount an electric fuel pump under the truck, delete the glow plug controller, & fuel selector valve.
why no cold start
Its a boring cold start tbh lol starts right up likes it nothing even in 0° weather
Those side mirrors look great! Where did you get them?
Autozone in one of the isles lol
270hp at the wheels is insane for a 7.3idi.
I can’t wait to see the center consoleeee
Same!!
Great video. I have a 94 250 idi turbo. My first diesel so am still learning. Here is my question. At the top of the timing gear housing is the sending unit for the tach (RPM). Do you have any idea how to verify the actual RPM's from the sending unit if you want to verify what the tach on the gauge cluster is saying? What kind of meter do I use and where do I place it? I dismantled my gauge cluster to change the LED and removed the green backing of the gauge faces from the backs. I took a picture of the gauges for gas and oil to see how to replace them ...that went fine. But forgot to see the exact RPM'a at idol so guessing it's about 600. I have held off reinstalling the cluster hoping someone could tell me how and where to check the RPM's from under the hood on the motor. Gas motors have distributors and plugs, but not so on a diesel? Got any clues?
Hey, don't know if you're still having this problem, but you can hook up a Ferret meter to the number one cylinder hard line going to the IP on top of the engine and then you can run a gasoline timing light with an advance. Here is a good video with a step-by-step on how to accomplish that.
m.ua-cam.com/video/tTGckV3k118/v-deo.html
Your timing light should show your RPM's. Good luck!
whenever i hear idi i always assume it’s gonna be lame. completely wrong here this things sick
where did you get the steering wheel and shifter
Steering wheel is from forever sharp steering wheels and shifter I made myself and my dad mad the knob
Just need to get that front fender painted to match the stripes and then it will be mint
It's only mint if it's beat up and rusted missing parts and shit this one's a pos..... Ziptiesandbiasplies has mint ass trucks
I have a 1993 f 350 crew cab 4x4 with 7.3 idi automatic overdrive 4.10 gears i put true duel exhaust in it with glass packs oh it sounds great i dont have a turbo i am going to leave it like it is i get 21 mph at 70 mph with 4.10 gears awesome truck i love the idi engines
Why are you getting 21 mpg and I only get 11 with my stock 7.3 idi turbo f 350? What do I need to do?
You got an auto or stick? How gone are your valve seals? Gear ratio?
@@Grewsum2Sum it's an auto 215 85 16 dual tires.
4:10 gears, don't know about valve seals,190,000 miles. Uses almost no oil and only whist of smoke on start up.
@@davebartle1123 definitely the 4.10s i also have a camshaft that really helps with the efficiency
That guy welding at 1:10 is gonna have a horrible sunburn later LOL
If it's from weldin it's a flashburn, on my 2nd small one in 7 months of workin at a trailer fabrication shop
This rig gets better and better. Keep the awesomeness coming
that is a clean rumbly growl
Would like to replace my fuel pump with electric as well, as it seems to want to crap out under heavy acceleration, so will be looking forward to seeing your up close and exact method of doing it. I understand most auto parts have covers that fit that hole exactly. Meanwhile, I am dealing with a problem with a limp mode problem on the trans. I wish I knew where to even start there.
There are a bunch of great idi groups on Facebook that are really helpful
Go with a Facet lift pump. Have one on mine its great. Just have to get fittings and make custom brakets to mount it.
@@IndirectInjection I've heard too many people frying them too quickly im going with what Justin from R&D recomends
What did you get the bucket seats out of?
An obs ford extended cab
Beautiful truck man. Sounds exactly like a 7.3 power stroke from the exhaust
My idi 94 is straight piped. Turbo is a good muffler lol.
I'm gonna build up the 7.3 idi thats on my 88 7.3 parts truck to put into my 92 7.3 once i have all my parts in & plannin on goin with a 400hp rated SouthBend clutch. I already have the comp 910 valve spring, the ARP studs, I'm gonna order the R&D billet return rails. I'm wantin to make 300 hp with mine so I'm thinkin of goin with the 110 pump from R&D since Justin says 300 is what the 110 is rated at
Love the old bull nose Tailgate
Where did you get that shifter shaft from?
Made it
Sick! I’ve got a 1990 f350 super duty bucket truck for my contracting business. Thanks to this video I will be cutting out the duffle bag and straight piping it tomorow lol.
@Cheyne Jones sadly it wont sound the same as this unless you change the cam. It will sound more like a big block chevy
@@Grewsum2Sum well I tried straight pipe and it was wayyyy to gnarly lol, cut her back off welded a glass pack and it sounds awesome!
@@Grewsum2Sum and yeah your right about the big block Chevy sound lol. Engine break does sound like an old Detroit, so I it worked out perfect really.
I have a 1993 7.3 idi dually straight pipe.....its loud!
Did you do the 3" downpipe modification yourself eliminating the flat exhaust downpipe?
The exhaust is from r&d idi performance and his manifold and downpipe kit do not have any flat parts
Bro, I have a tan bronco factory consol. Dye it red? Let me know if you are interested. Stick it between those buckets.
Is it plastic or wood? My my father is gunna make me a fancy wood one to match the overhead console
how did you guys make it sound like a powerstroke?
R&d camshaft
How long does it take to pull everything off the engine, and pull the engine out?
A few hours for me. Its pretty simple
That's a loud rolls royce
On the upgrades what is an estimate you spent? I might want to put a turbo...
How much did it cost to get it sleeved?
Question:
Miles per gallon or gallons per mile?
15-18mpg with my foot in it
@@Grewsum2Sum not bad for an IdI thats been tuned the way you did.
@@Grewsum2Sum
That's not bad at all, I always wondered if you sacrifice fuel economy when you add the extra power, but it looks like it's still good.
How did you sleeve it????
Machine shop did it
Dude what turbo is that
It's an hx35 he said in the video
how many miles do you have on the build? things fuckin sick I'd like to do some work to my 93
About 5k
man be carefull that is CCA wire not good for what your using it for you want actual copper wire not copper clad aluminum wire look for welding wire for what your doing or your asking for issues.
The wire im using is tinned copper wire not aluminum
@@Grewsum2Sum be very leary almost all wire you find saying is tinned is actually CCA take a strand of it heat it with a lighter if it turns super brittle you got lied to I can almost bet money what I seen when you were cutting it and prepping to hammer crimp it was not tinned copper it was tinned CCA wire copper wire dont behave the same as what I seen.
@@Grewsum2Sum very few power wire for amplifiers are actually copper wire little alone tinned copper welding cable is your best bet to get actual copper wire the wire you buy at professional audio places again 99% of it is CCA wire not copper copper wire is stupid expensive and very heavy compared to CCA wire.
@@rickcooperjr62864 will have to check it out and see i have a spare peice of it
@@Grewsum2Sum ua-cam.com/video/RVUNdT4cRps/v-deo.html give that video a watch and decide what you think CCA wire is dangerous for something like a alternator as your using it add to it for the battery to the starter solenoid to a fuse block then to a amplifier you are dealing with alot of power draw across that CCA wire so its very dangerous and your truck might go up in flames over it.
That’s a powerstroke not a idi
Hahahahahahahahahaha yea your right its a powerstroke....... NOTTT. go watch all the videos about building it
Definitely not a powerstroke
Hater
Do u even know the difference between an idi & a powerstroke? I'd know cuz I own an idi
The IDI truck is 10 times the truck that white thing is.
Hahaha as a truck yes power wise absolutely not
@@Grewsum2Sum yeah that's what I meant as a truck.
Start the truck already dummy