Some important points made from someone whose had loads of hands on time with both. I'd never have thought about the grip that you mention re your little finger almost getting jammed on the 660 when deciding a purchase. Great video!
Hi Kezonline. The grip thing is only a small point, but definitely important if you've got bigger hands or use the saw on its side a lot😉 Thanks for watching and your comment😎😎
I went for the 680 on the basis of the left sided blade. I'm right handed and I prefer the better line of sight I have with the blade. I also bought a guide rail adaptor (196953-0) and while a 660 adaptor (199232-5) is also available, it only connects via a single bar which doesn't look very stable. It's probably fine but two bars seems more sturdy. Anyway, I really like my 680.
Hi there. They are both good saws and it realistically boils down to personal preference.🤩 Absolutely agree about the 660 guide rail adapter. Its almost pointless. Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍 Cheers.
Clear and honest review! Still doubting which one I should get. They’re both plenty powerful and robust for me as a hobbyist, figure the smaller handle on the 660 won’t be that big a problem. So its basically right hand blade to left hand blade. As someone who’s only used right handed circular saws I have no clue which I’d prefer. Probably have to see and hold them in person.
Hi Wippip. Having got plenty of hours under my belt now with both saws, if I was only allowed to have one, it would be the 680. (blade left). But this is only a lighter duty saw for me and I would still want a blade right, 190mm saw. If you are used to blade right saws, I don't think you would regret getting the 660, (blade right), especially if you are a more occasional user.👍 Thanks for watching and good luck with your choice.🤞😎
I wouldn’t recommend getting the 680, the wobbly base only gets worse over time and starts cutting pissed. It’s a bit of a headache. If you can overlook sloppy tolerances however it’s a good saw. Just not accurate I’d go with the 660 dude, literally any other makita saw or the new hi-koki s they’re solid and similarly priced
Im mainly milwaukee but the right tool for the job is what matters so ive got hikoki dewalt makita aswell, just bought the small 136mm makita saw for cutting roofing battens and the rear handle 185mm for cutting c16/24 timbers . I generally prefer the left blade for line of site all depends what the cut is though! Great video again mate
Hi John. Some people suggest that a particularly handed saw benefits a particularly handed person, but I think each one has its strengths whichever hand the operator.😎 Thanks for watching.👍
Thanks for a really helpful review and comparison. As a DIYer looking for my first circular saw, I came across the DHS680Z, but the blade position didn't make sense for me as a left-hander. The DHS660Z seems to make more sense as it grips from the left, leaving clear sight to the blade on the right. With limited experience I don't really understand why a right handed person would use the 660Z as you'd have limited visibility of the blade. Thanks again.
Your assumption about right handed people and blade left saws, in my opinion, is correct🫡 You naturally have more power and control of a saw when its being used closer to you core, and if you're using a blade left with your right hand, then you need to lean back from the saw to see the cut line🤔To he honest, they are both great saw👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I have the 680 and fully agree about it falling over. It's really annoying and could fall of edge of work bench. I'm constantly thinking about it every time I put it down.
Hi there 🖐 Yeah, I hear you. I suppose we could be critised for not finding something to hang it on using the rafter hook, but you don't want to be thinking about that every time you put it down😬 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I had the same problem. Was used to my old Makita corded saws and bought a cordless not realizing the blade was for me on the wrong side, I'm used to looking over the saw at the blade and have struggled to get used to a left-hand blade.
Hi there. I think I agree with what you are saying and there's no right or wrong, its just what you're used to. Some people can adapt to change and retrain themselves really quickly, but I suspect the longer you have been used to doing something a certain way, the more difficult it is to change. I don't see the blade left saw as a replacement to my blade right one, but more an addition to my tool kit which is better suited to certain tasks.😎 Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍
Great review. Thanks! I have the 680 and have found it to be excellent for my needs. Having said that, I am thinking about the 660 for one reason only... The sawdust exhaust location. I am right handed and the 680 just blasts sawdust right at you which is not great when your in and out of customers homes. It's either that or try and modify the 680's exhaust port.
Hi Jeff. You're absolutely right about the dust blasting on you with the DHS680.😬 I'm getting some footage together fir a video where I go through a lot of the differences between blade left and blade right saws and their pluses and minuses. Thanks for your comment. 👍Cheers.
I modified the exhaust on my 680 with a 40 mm 45° plastic waste pipe pointing to the right. Fits perfect on the screw-on plastic one that comes with the saw. And is cheap. I am right-handed myself and the sawdust in my pockets..! Otherwise I am very happy with the saw.
It's been scratching my head for a while and finally it's been answered, thank you so much for making this video👍👍👍just one more question, are the motors exactly same on those 2 saws? cheers
Hi JoJo. I don't actually know if there is any difference in the motors on these two saws. They certainly seem to perform the same. 👍 Thanks for your comment. 😎 Cheers.
I've had the 680 for about 2 years now and recently found a problem with it. The lever at the back that releases the base plate has a bolt that joins the lever to the plate, the nut and bolt is a harder metal than the baseplate and with constant use it's widened that gap made for it. Making the lever useless and the baseplate doesn't stay at any depth you'd like. I had to glue it all together which has worked for now but if that goes I'll need a bigger washer to keep it together i think
hi, ever since the 660 came out i was looking for a comparison of the two but couldn’t find one, until now, so great video! can you tell me where did u buy the 660 for 115£ ? i live in the UK and i can only find it for over 150£ , also which one do you recommend, my main problem is that i’d like it to be small like the 660 but i like a blade left for acurate cuts...
Came here to consider getting a DHS660 instead of the 680 (used this one many times on site and wanting my own), and really surprised at the changes to the baseplate (prefer appearance of the 680 with adjustable graduations!) and blade guard. Speaking to the 680 being impossible to position without rolling, absolutely agree, but I notice you don’t have the rafter hook still attached - that can be pretty handy if you have a point to hook it on! Thanks for the vid!
Hi there🖐Thanks for your comment, and I guess it all comes down to what suits you best personally🤔The are both great saws👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Is there any noise difference? according to makita specs the 680 is quieter at 94db vs 660 104db? but if the have the same motor, it should not be the case unless the don't or didn't (eg old specs when 660 was not brushless?)?
Hi there. I cant say that I notice one saw to be more noisy than the other🙉 They both seem the same to me, but I do wear ear defenders when using them👍 Thanks for watching😎
Great walk-through on both, I added the US model numbers just for others to find this. The "Brake" feature on the 660 seems to be useful, is it in the real world though?
G’day mate I know this is an old video but I still find it helpful I’m going to watch your video on the 660 next it will be interesting to see if your thoughts have changed thanks
Funny how different we are, im a right hander and i have a right sided blade and am actually about to purchase the 680, the other thing about the 680 is that an adaptor can be fitted to it so it can run on a track, ivdont believe other model makita saws have this option.
Hi Bootneck. You're right, 'theres nowt as queer a folk', as they say.🤪 And you're also right about the DHS 680 being able to be adapted to fit on a track. Check out the video I did on it.👍 Thanks for your comment and for watching.
I am looking into buying a circular saw for some table making where I will not be making lots of cuts. I didn’t even know there are handed blades! Thank you for making this vid because I’m sure the 680 will be better for me because I can set up a rail and be able to walk around the table while cutting and be able to keep most of the saw plate on the table top while making long and accurate cuts. Cheers
Hi Bon Bob🖐That's the beauty of have saws with blades on both sides, and like you have said, you can pick one that best suits your needs😎Glad my video was of use, and good luck with the saw, mines been a cracker🤩Cheers Del
Hi there. I'm actually collecting footage whilst using each saw in other videos. Once I've got enough examples of each one that help highlight each saws strengths/weaknesses I'll be doing that video.😎 Cheers.
As you've said,; that rolling over of the Makita DHS68 machine is very irritating. Beside that, i'm a left handed. So my choice is clear now. I''m in for the Makita DHS660. Thank for this review.
Hi Bertaus 🖐 Thanks for watching and your comment. I, personally, think that the DHS660 is a sweeter, more sturdy machine, so well done on your choice👊Cheers Del
nice reviews ! First time I am planning to buy dhs660z to cut occasional Furniture laminate (for me plunge saw is too expensive being a hobby builder around the house) Now, manufacturers recommend an extra slim blade for cordless. Should I be worried making a nice straight cut due to the flex in the blade ? Chipping ? A 42T blade with corded Makita gives sn excellent result. (Nice cut, no chips) I am thinking to go with a thicker blade designed for corded. Most board are 18mm power issue should not be present. Many thank for feedback if you have experience on this matter.
Hi Tamas🖐I think you are right to ask the question about blade flex in these thinner kerf, cordless specific saw blades, and it IS indeed, my experience that they wander in the cut. I am now using thicker kerf, corded specific blades in my saws, and am getting nice straight cuts with ninimal impact on battery life👍The DHS660 is a brilliant saw, and I use mine all the time💪Cheers Del
Del have you ever noticed a little tab on the front of the 680 ? It rotates a bit . It’s where the saw pivots from . I have no idea what it does . Have a look pal 🤔
Hi Terry. That little tab is what the 45 degree stop, and when you flick it over it allows the saw to go over to 50 degrees👍 I mention it in my review video of the 680👊 Cheers Del
Xl right handed guy with a preference for blade left saws...very good video, almost sold me the 680 if it wasn't for that loose base plate. Looking for a finishing saw, this clearly isn't going to be the one. Any recommendation would be greatly appreciated. New sub!
Hi there🖐Firstly, thank you for subscribing🤗Yes, the 680 is NOT suited to fine work, mainly due to the wobbly base😬I really have no other experience of blade left saws, but on the case of the 660 in this video, I would say that a saw with non cast base may be more accurate🤔Sorry I can't be more help than that😔and thanks again for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi there🖐I didn't know that, I'll have to have a closer look👍I have fitted the Makita guide rail adapter to it, to use on a track, but that's not part of the base🤔Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
i bought a used dhs680 and it seems that the blade it's not parallel aligned with that cast aluminium base. idk if that's the way should be or it is damaged . how's yours ?
When you open your marketing materials that come with your Makita tools they don’t have model numbers and it is the same fold out for everyone with no color variation (very confusing for us), and if you can’t tell by the way I just spelled color, I’m in North America. The homeowner grade Makita tools here are white and the “sub compact” tools are black. They are the same tools just different colors.
when aluminum gets old it hardens, so you can bent it and bent I back without it degrades, there is a high chance of braking no matter what type, the cast aluminium is way stronger.
I think I made a mistake about the cast base being aluminium as I thinks its actually cast magnesium. Still cheaper to replace the pressed base than the cast one. Thanks for your comment. Cheers.
@@brianwgDK Most of the top brand saws cast bases are magnesium, but I can't find information about the dhs680,s base material. I have found out that a replacement base for the dhs680 is £40 and a replacement base fir the dhs660 is £10. (GBP). Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter "Ultra-lightweight design with magnesium baseplate, blade casing and safety cover" www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=tool&id=1930&from=accessory Just bought one! Looking forward to testing it out
Good comparison! Either saw seems to have one major anoyance! - one wants to roll off, and the other one's grip gets too narrow for a normal hand. (built for Japanese hands?) I also just saw it written in a store and heard it in another video, that the 660 is not brushless, vs the 680 being brushless... Makita could have updated it to using a brushless motor at some point, I assume.
Hi Builder. You pretty much summed up both tools there mate.👊 I'm not sure about the history of the 660, but, you're probably right about Makita just updating the motor.😎 Thanks for watching.👍
Hi Bootneck. My 680 came with a rafter hook, but I took it of as I didn't find it useful and rarely use the saw whilst, 'on', the roof.😝 Thanks for your comment and for watching the video.👍
I got the 660 and I just wish that, when it's on 0 that it would cut 90° i have to adjust mine a bit, for it to cut a 90° cut. And i know it's not a Festool plungesaw, but Makita disapoint me a bit here, there drills are way more precise than Dewalt, if i put a long drillbit on my Dewalt it wobbles like crazy we're talking mm, where the Makita drill is under 1mm. It's Japanese precision, but not with the 660.
Hi there. You can adjust the blade to be exactly 90 degrees by turning the small hex bolt in the base. I always check and adjust any new saw I get like this. Thanks for your comment.
@@thetallcarpenter thanks! So i can release the hex and adjust it, so when it's on 0 it will cut 90° but i guess i will still have to do some test cuts and fine tune it? I have to try that.
This is a really good cir saw, and it's blade left!! hahaha. It is lightweight, powerful for its size. Sorry for the dumb question but...Is there a way to slow down the RPM a bit on it? I don't know anything about electronics etc, but kinda hack...it has no load speed 5,000 RPM....and drop it down like 3,900 RPM ?? Cheers.
Hi there. I've not heard of anyone modding these type of saw to be variable speed, (and its beyond even my tinkering abilities), but I think Hikoki does a 36v circular saw that has 2 speeds. (power and silent from memory). Might I ask what you would use a slower RPM saw on? Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter I would like to slow down the RPM for metal cutting purposes (metal roofing panels). And why not to use Makita's dedicated metal cutting saws? Because I want a blade left saw. Thanks
That is dumb! Why da phunk would you EVER want to slow down the speed? Get the brushed version, which turns at 3700. Basic kit, yet still very solid saw. Cheers 😁✌🏻
Já tava na intenção. De comprar. Mas só o fato dela não ter apoio. Modelo dhs 680. Desisti. Em compensação a modelo. Dhs 660, é top, bateria fica bem acoplada.. Só não gostei, aposição do disco. Ficou do lado esquerdo. Já modelo. Dhs 680 tá de cordo. Seria máximo. Os fabricantes teimam em fabrica. As Serra circular com corte lado esquerdo. Dificulta fizualizacao cortes. Também na pegada da máquina. Vou esperar a makita. Desenvolver. Uma assim. Igual a modelo. Dhs 660 com o disco lado direito. Com a bateria igual a da dhs 660. Assim seria maravilhoso.
@@thetallcarpenter ive got hands like shovels. tried my mates 660 and it was a nightmare. 680 for me on 6ah batts is as good as it gets. ok its a bit rattly and feels like a childs toy sometime lol but i dropped mine from 2m up and it bounced a bit but lived :) i find that rafter hook invaluable for what i do(landscape/fencer)i just hang it onto either my horse or fence rails.
@@thanxx I've turned into a bit of a weight weenie as I've got older, and both these saws, for me, are for lighter roofing work. They, (and pretty much ALL these brushless battery saws), are all pretty awesome and make all of our jobs so much easier. Cheers.
Hey, really great comparison, I'm about to buy one of these saws so I have already watched unhealthy amount of videos of them :)Your comparison is the best! Now that you have 660 for a while, do you find the right sided blade better suited for a right handed person, isn't it weird to lean over to check the blade while cutting? BTW you can fix the 680s wobbliness by removing the depth adjusting lever and readjusting it before putting it back, like so: ua-cam.com/video/3UCXqmwtgbk/v-deo.html
Hi there. I find a bladed right saw more comfortable to use but only in certain applications. When cutting 90 degree cuts, yes, you have to lean over the machine to see your cut line, BUT, anatomically, this causes you to bring the saw closer to your body and consequently more in your bodies natural, 'power zone', leading less fatigue. Remember, I am a professional user and will be using this saw day in day out in challenging environments. Also blade right saws throw the dust away from the body, and, when doing 45 degree cuts, the cut line is MILES easier to see on a blade right machine due to the whole motor assembly being tilted out of the way. There's not a right or wrong, way when it comes to blade side, but it can be relevant based on whet you want to do with the saw. Interestingly, the first thing I did when I got my 680 was not only re-index the depth adjuster lever, but also crush down fixing whole to stop it rattling. The rest of the rattling is from the guard and the tilt lever. Thanks for you comment. Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter What an exhaustive and swift answer! It contained all the information I was looking for and than some. Finally I can make a decision (660 it is) and rest easy. Hope to see more videos from you in the future!
@@thetallcarpenter No mate, I'll stick to the 18v platform for the time being. Just too many tools to replace. However, my first purchase will be the circular saw as my Makita 680 is due retirement. Mind you I sold my Makita mitre saw and bought a Hikoki cordless mitre saw, love it.
Hi there. I know mate. This was amongst some of my earliest attempts a making videos. 'Erm' is a 'filler word' that I didn't even realise I used as much as I did until I started filming myself. Its something I've been working on a lot and its, hopefully, getting better in my later videos👍Thanks for watching bud😎
@@thetallcarpenter don’t worry bud! I was the same in my early videos! It’s amazing when you what yourself back! Appreciate the reply and thanks for sharing
@@thetallcarpenter Looking at either saw.there is a 661 now which has "Bluetooth" still have to buy gadget! turns sucker on/off!. Get so much confusing spec's on websites!!! one saws 660 has blower 680 not.Reputed rail connector for 660 is alloy while 680 more plastic/nylon someone cussing "warped" from new. Ive the Blunder bus saw 5903RK kit which only used to rip a dozen larch boards down and some thick French Green Oak planks but just to big for most things with "Pinkies" vulnerable! trying to cut say 2x2's etc yes it's an awesome saw Friend cutting Oak with it was impressed but thinking of selling off and getting one of these as also handy as can wander up road and zip some pallet wood up as part of a wood working charity that is for well being/mental health & so on & Doing a project making Bird/Bee/Bat boxes and pallet wood is a good source so don't need to cut more than 2" depth. I'm left-handed but it's weird thinking about it as 680 hold in left stand on right/660 hold in right stand on left i guess! Mind Chainsaws it's a right on controls left hand on front handle! and covered in shite no matter where stand! Mind was useful ripped 8x4 thick sheets down and got into car!. Was funny seeing bods looking thinking hows going to load up? bing then 346xp fired up sorted!
@@buckrogers2828 Hi Buck🖐Thats a great comment and I enjoyed reading it👊Both of the saws in the video are super handy and portable, so I guess its what suits the individual best👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi Marcus🖐You'll never beat the power of cordless, and these 18v saws definitely have their limitations🤔but I find them brilliant on the right work👊Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi George. I have got footage of them cutting side but I'm saving it up for a video on which is best, blade left or blade right. I know its a hotly debated subject. Thanks for your comment.😀 Cheers.
Hi Marcus🖐I agree that these are not an all day saw for, say roof framing, but I use them with great effect in conjunction with my bigger saw, on most of my jobs, and wouldn't be without them👊Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
@@willhinds8111 Hi Will🖐 It's a combination of both more power and a deeper cut, especially if doing compound cuts and ripping in 47mm thick timber👊Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Ben🖐Thanks for the advise bud, and this was one of my earliest videos shot on an old smartphone🤪Check out some of my newer videos to see if you can see any improvement 😀 Cheers Del
Absolutely fantastic comparison! If only every review was this detailed! Thanks very much!✊
Thanks for your kind and positive comment🤩and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
This was a splendid comparision video, thanks a lot for the effort you put into creating this!
Thanks for your comment Moos🤩This was one of my earlier videos so I appreciate your comment🤗Cheers Del
Some important points made from someone whose had loads of hands on time with both. I'd never have thought about the grip that you mention re your little finger almost getting jammed on the 660 when deciding a purchase. Great video!
Hi Kezonline. The grip thing is only a small point, but definitely important if you've got bigger hands or use the saw on its side a lot😉 Thanks for watching and your comment😎😎
I went for the 680 on the basis of the left sided blade. I'm right handed and I prefer the better line of sight I have with the blade. I also bought a guide rail adaptor (196953-0) and while a 660 adaptor (199232-5) is also available, it only connects via a single bar which doesn't look very stable. It's probably fine but two bars seems more sturdy. Anyway, I really like my 680.
Hi there. They are both good saws and it realistically boils down to personal preference.🤩 Absolutely agree about the 660 guide rail adapter. Its almost pointless. Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍 Cheers.
That's a very useful point, thanks
Clear and honest review! Still doubting which one I should get. They’re both plenty powerful and robust for me as a hobbyist, figure the smaller handle on the 660 won’t be that big a problem. So its basically right hand blade to left hand blade. As someone who’s only used right handed circular saws I have no clue which I’d prefer. Probably have to see and hold them in person.
Hi Wippip. Having got plenty of hours under my belt now with both saws, if I was only allowed to have one, it would be the 680. (blade left). But this is only a lighter duty saw for me and I would still want a blade right, 190mm saw. If you are used to blade right saws, I don't think you would regret getting the 660, (blade right), especially if you are a more occasional user.👍 Thanks for watching and good luck with your choice.🤞😎
I wouldn’t recommend getting the 680, the wobbly base only gets worse over time and starts cutting pissed. It’s a bit of a headache.
If you can overlook sloppy tolerances however it’s a good saw. Just not accurate
I’d go with the 660 dude, literally any other makita saw or the new hi-koki s they’re solid and similarly priced
@@ollie9199 thanks i for this comment ill go for the 660
Lots of good information, very practical, many thanks
My pleasure🤩 Thanks for watching👍
Im mainly milwaukee but the right tool for the job is what matters so ive got hikoki dewalt makita aswell, just bought the small 136mm makita saw for cutting roofing battens and the rear handle 185mm for cutting c16/24 timbers . I generally prefer the left blade for line of site all depends what the cut is though! Great video again mate
I agree that its all about having the tools that best suite the particular job you're doing👍Thanks for your comment and for watching🤩Cheers Del
Great in-depth review.
Thanks for watching Frazzmac🤩
Well there's something new, never thought there was a left and right hand saw, see the left hand one is top heavy and very rattly, good video 👍
Hi John. Some people suggest that a particularly handed saw benefits a particularly handed person, but I think each one has its strengths whichever hand the operator.😎 Thanks for watching.👍
Hi, Great video! Inspite 680 seems to be more popular I went for 660 just because it look more rigid. bought it before this vid.
Hi. Yes it seem more compact. I'm getting on well with mine. Cheers.
Thanks for a really helpful review and comparison. As a DIYer looking for my first circular saw, I came across the DHS680Z, but the blade position didn't make sense for me as a left-hander. The DHS660Z seems to make more sense as it grips from the left, leaving clear sight to the blade on the right. With limited experience I don't really understand why a right handed person would use the 660Z as you'd have limited visibility of the blade. Thanks again.
Your assumption about right handed people and blade left saws, in my opinion, is correct🫡 You naturally have more power and control of a saw when its being used closer to you core, and if you're using a blade left with your right hand, then you need to lean back from the saw to see the cut line🤔To he honest, they are both great saw👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I have the 680 and fully agree about it falling over. It's really annoying and could fall of edge of work bench. I'm constantly thinking about it every time I put it down.
Hi there 🖐 Yeah, I hear you. I suppose we could be critised for not finding something to hang it on using the rafter hook, but you don't want to be thinking about that every time you put it down😬 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I had the same problem. Was used to my old Makita corded saws and bought a cordless not realizing the blade was for me on the wrong side, I'm used to looking over the saw at the blade and have struggled to get used to a left-hand blade.
Hi there. I think I agree with what you are saying and there's no right or wrong, its just what you're used to. Some people can adapt to change and retrain themselves really quickly, but I suspect the longer you have been used to doing something a certain way, the more difficult it is to change. I don't see the blade left saw as a replacement to my blade right one, but more an addition to my tool kit which is better suited to certain tasks.😎 Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍
Great review. Thanks!
I have the 680 and have found it to be excellent for my needs. Having said that, I am thinking about the 660 for one reason only... The sawdust exhaust location. I am right handed and the 680 just blasts sawdust right at you which is not great when your in and out of customers homes. It's either that or try and modify the 680's exhaust port.
Hi Jeff. You're absolutely right about the dust blasting on you with the DHS680.😬 I'm getting some footage together fir a video where I go through a lot of the differences between blade left and blade right saws and their pluses and minuses. Thanks for your comment. 👍Cheers.
I modified the exhaust on my 680 with a 40 mm 45° plastic waste pipe pointing to the right. Fits perfect on the screw-on plastic one that comes with the saw. And is cheap.
I am right-handed myself and the sawdust in my pockets..!
Otherwise I am very happy with the saw.
@@BjarlkramRodaz Great solution.👍
Checking sidingtips, they sell boot cover piece for the 680.
It's been scratching my head for a while and finally it's been answered, thank you so much for making this video👍👍👍just one more question, are the motors exactly same on those 2 saws? cheers
Hi JoJo. I don't actually know if there is any difference in the motors on these two saws. They certainly seem to perform the same. 👍 Thanks for your comment. 😎 Cheers.
Hi- Excellent and honest content. New subscriber waiting for the right/left hand tool video.
Hi Crux🖐Thanks for watching bud, and I'm collecting video clips for the lift v right showdown🤟Cheers Del
I've had the 680 for about 2 years now and recently found a problem with it. The lever at the back that releases the base plate has a bolt that joins the lever to the plate, the nut and bolt is a harder metal than the baseplate and with constant use it's widened that gap made for it. Making the lever useless and the baseplate doesn't stay at any depth you'd like. I had to glue it all together which has worked for now but if that goes I'll need a bigger washer to keep it together i think
I'll have to keep an eye out for that on mine bud🤓Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
hi, ever since the 660 came out i was looking for a comparison of the two but couldn’t find one, until now, so great video! can you tell me where did u buy the 660 for 115£ ? i live in the UK and i can only find it for over 150£ , also which one do you recommend, my main problem is that i’d like it to be small like the 660 but i like a blade left for acurate cuts...
Hi there. The 660 was from Powertoolmate. £112.48+vat and still is available. Cheers.
Came here to consider getting a DHS660 instead of the 680 (used this one many times on site and wanting my own), and really surprised at the changes to the baseplate (prefer appearance of the 680 with adjustable graduations!) and blade guard.
Speaking to the 680 being impossible to position without rolling, absolutely agree, but I notice you don’t have the rafter hook still attached - that can be pretty handy if you have a point to hook it on!
Thanks for the vid!
Hi there🖐Thanks for your comment, and I guess it all comes down to what suits you best personally🤔The are both great saws👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
i am a leftie with med/big left hand, i like the grip on the 660 than 680
may be because on left hand has more space for your knuckles
That's a really good point and could of only come from a left hander. Thanks for adding your comment. Cheers.
Is there any noise difference? according to makita specs the 680 is quieter at 94db vs 660 104db? but if the have the same motor, it should not be the case unless the don't or didn't (eg old specs when 660 was not brushless?)?
Hi there. I cant say that I notice one saw to be more noisy than the other🙉 They both seem the same to me, but I do wear ear defenders when using them👍 Thanks for watching😎
Totally agree about the saw wanting to roll away from you when you have the depth set - surprisingly annoying
Glad its not just me then Billy.🤩 Still a great saw, that I wouldn't be without now. Its so handy.😎 Thanks for your comment.👍 Cheers
same here, it will roll like a ball down the hill if not careful
Great walk-through on both, I added the US model numbers just for others to find this. The "Brake" feature on the 660 seems to be useful, is it in the real world though?
Hi. The brake function is not really apparent in use from one saw to another so that's a fair point. 😎Cheers.
I loved my makita ripsaw so much I was gonna have a picture of it tattooed on my arm
You'll need to go to the Tattoo Fixers and have it tattooed over the DeWalt one.🤪🤣 Cheers.
G’day mate I know this is an old video but I still find it helpful I’m going to watch your video on the 660 next it will be interesting to see if your thoughts have changed thanks
Hi Howard🖐Thanks for watching bud, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this saw👊It's been a cracker and I use it LOADS👌Cheers Del
Funny how different we are, im a right hander and i have a right sided blade and am actually about to purchase the 680, the other thing about the 680 is that an adaptor can be fitted to it so it can run on a track, ivdont believe other model makita saws have this option.
Hi Bootneck. You're right, 'theres nowt as queer a folk', as they say.🤪 And you're also right about the DHS 680 being able to be adapted to fit on a track. Check out the video I did on it.👍 Thanks for your comment and for watching.
I am looking into buying a circular saw for some table making where I will not be making lots of cuts. I didn’t even know there are handed blades! Thank you for making this vid because I’m sure the 680 will be better for me because I can set up a rail and be able to walk around the table while cutting and be able to keep most of the saw plate on the table top while making long and accurate cuts. Cheers
Hi Bon Bob🖐That's the beauty of have saws with blades on both sides, and like you have said, you can pick one that best suits your needs😎Glad my video was of use, and good luck with the saw, mines been a cracker🤩Cheers Del
Hey mate, you mentioned doing a video on left vs right bladed saws. Any follow up to this?
Hi there. I'm actually collecting footage whilst using each saw in other videos. Once I've got enough examples of each one that help highlight each saws strengths/weaknesses I'll be doing that video.😎 Cheers.
As you've said,; that rolling over of the Makita DHS68 machine is very irritating. Beside that, i'm a left handed. So my choice is clear now. I''m in for the Makita DHS660. Thank for this review.
Hi Bertaus 🖐 Thanks for watching and your comment. I, personally, think that the DHS660 is a sweeter, more sturdy machine, so well done on your choice👊Cheers Del
The 680 is for the left handed? Am I incorrect?
The right hsnded compksin about the dust
nice reviews ! First time I am planning to buy dhs660z to cut occasional Furniture laminate (for me plunge saw is too expensive being a hobby builder around the house) Now, manufacturers recommend an extra slim blade for cordless. Should I be worried making a nice straight cut due to the flex in the blade ? Chipping ? A 42T blade with corded Makita gives sn excellent result. (Nice cut, no chips) I am thinking to go with a thicker blade designed for corded. Most board are 18mm power issue should not be present. Many thank for feedback if you have experience on this matter.
Hi Tamas🖐I think you are right to ask the question about blade flex in these thinner kerf, cordless specific saw blades, and it IS indeed, my experience that they wander in the cut. I am now using thicker kerf, corded specific blades in my saws, and am getting nice straight cuts with ninimal impact on battery life👍The DHS660 is a brilliant saw, and I use mine all the time💪Cheers Del
The left handed blade is to be able to make it a track saw. But you're right it is a bit "different" to have the blade on the left side.
BRILLIANT THANK YOU.
My pleasure Captain🫡
Makita - grinders,router trimmers,planners especially 40v
Festool,Mafell - circular plunge saws - just another level
I can imagine they are EE🤑Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Already got the DHS 680 here in Namibia 🇳🇦, stil wanting to get the 660,, 🤔
Both great saws bud👊Thanks for watching👍Cheers Del
Del have you ever noticed a little tab on the front of the 680 ? It rotates a bit . It’s where the saw pivots from . I have no idea what it does . Have a look pal 🤔
Hi Terry. That little tab is what the 45 degree stop, and when you flick it over it allows the saw to go over to 50 degrees👍 I mention it in my review video of the 680👊 Cheers Del
One more issue with the 660 is you can’t use a speed square on the left side , have to put it on the right and run the saw with your left hand
That's quite true🤔Thanks for watching🤩Cheers Del
Xl right handed guy with a preference for blade left saws...very good video, almost sold me the 680 if it wasn't for that loose base plate. Looking for a finishing saw, this clearly isn't going to be the one. Any recommendation would be greatly appreciated. New sub!
Hi there🖐Firstly, thank you for subscribing🤗Yes, the 680 is NOT suited to fine work, mainly due to the wobbly base😬I really have no other experience of blade left saws, but on the case of the 660 in this video, I would say that a saw with non cast base may be more accurate🤔Sorry I can't be more help than that😔and thanks again for watching😎Cheers Del
On the 680 the base plate has guide rail adapter if you want to use it as a drop saw
Hi there🖐I didn't know that, I'll have to have a closer look👍I have fitted the Makita guide rail adapter to it, to use on a track, but that's not part of the base🤔Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Yep, that's what I meant, sorry I used the terminology 😁
@@chawenhalo0089 Ah, I get you🤟I've actually done a video on fitting the guide rail adapter to this saw👍
i bought a used dhs680 and it seems that the blade it's not parallel aligned with that cast aluminium base. idk if that's the way should be or it is damaged . how's yours ?
Hi there. I don't think there's any problems with mine as it cuts fine. It may be that the rear pivot/adjuster is out of line or bent.😵 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter thanks!
There may be a fix to your problem, look for the DHS680 videos of "Tools & Stuff" here - he mentions how to fix the rattling and the 90% of the blade.
Thank You!
Cheers Vidas👍
guys, quick question, do you know if makita black edition saw is smaller than the 660?
I don't know that. Cheers.
When you open your marketing materials that come with your Makita tools they don’t have model numbers and it is the same fold out for everyone with no color variation (very confusing for us), and if you can’t tell by the way I just spelled color, I’m in North America. The homeowner grade Makita tools here are white and the “sub compact” tools are black. They are the same tools just different colors.
@@thetruth5210 Greetings from the UK. Thanks for your comment. Cheers.
Подскажите, а у щелочной пилы есть отюстановка двигателя если диск переклинет?
Hi there🖐I'm not sure if these saw have that function, but they do have blade brakes when you take your finger off the trigger👍Cheers Del
Did your DHS660 come with AWS bluetooth chip?
Hi Henry. No it didn't mate, and I didn't think these saws had the option either, but I could be wrong🤔 Cheers
when aluminum gets old it hardens, so you can bent it and bent I back without it degrades, there is a high chance of braking no matter what type, the cast aluminium is way stronger.
I think I made a mistake about the cast base being aluminium as I thinks its actually cast magnesium. Still cheaper to replace the pressed base than the cast one. Thanks for your comment. Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter I don't think they would use magnesium, it's expensive. but don't know
@@brianwgDK Most of the top brand saws cast bases are magnesium, but I can't find information about the dhs680,s base material. I have found out that a replacement base for the dhs680 is £40 and a replacement base fir the dhs660 is £10. (GBP). Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter "Ultra-lightweight design with magnesium baseplate, blade casing and safety cover"
www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=tool&id=1930&from=accessory
Just bought one! Looking forward to testing it out
Good comparison! Either saw seems to have one major anoyance! - one wants to roll off, and the other one's grip gets too narrow for a normal hand. (built for Japanese hands?)
I also just saw it written in a store and heard it in another video, that the 660 is not brushless, vs the 680 being brushless... Makita could have updated it to using a brushless motor at some point, I assume.
Hi Builder. You pretty much summed up both tools there mate.👊 I'm not sure about the history of the 660, but, you're probably right about Makita just updating the motor.😎 Thanks for watching.👍
I forgot my other comment and have now remembered (😭getting old) The new model 680 has a rafter hook so now worries about it falling from roof.
Hi Bootneck. My 680 came with a rafter hook, but I took it of as I didn't find it useful and rarely use the saw whilst, 'on', the roof.😝 Thanks for your comment and for watching the video.👍
I got the 660 and I just wish that, when it's on 0 that it would cut 90° i have to adjust mine a bit, for it to cut a 90° cut. And i know it's not a Festool plungesaw, but Makita disapoint me a bit here, there drills are way more precise than Dewalt, if i put a long drillbit on my Dewalt it wobbles like crazy we're talking mm, where the Makita drill is under 1mm. It's Japanese precision, but not with the 660.
Hi there. You can adjust the blade to be exactly 90 degrees by turning the small hex bolt in the base. I always check and adjust any new saw I get like this. Thanks for your comment.
@@thetallcarpenter thanks! So i can release the hex and adjust it, so when it's on 0 it will cut 90° but i guess i will still have to do some test cuts and fine tune it? I have to try that.
he convinced me aswell, very good info! thanks
@@bahionic just put a square on the base and blade and tighten it there
Hi . Question for you which one is good for you ?
Hi Jose. If I could only have one, it would have to be the DHS680. Thanks for your comment. 😎
That saw IS rattly, but to its defense, I dropped it off of a roof and it was totally fine
Hi Alex. That's good feedback. Bet you were relieved after it fell to find it was still ok?.😵 Thanks for your comment.
This is a really good cir saw, and it's blade left!! hahaha. It is lightweight, powerful for its size.
Sorry for the dumb question but...Is there a way to slow down the RPM a bit on it?
I don't know anything about electronics etc, but kinda hack...it has no load speed 5,000 RPM....and drop it down like 3,900 RPM ??
Cheers.
Hi there. I've not heard of anyone modding these type of saw to be variable speed, (and its beyond even my tinkering abilities), but I think Hikoki does a 36v circular saw that has 2 speeds. (power and silent from memory). Might I ask what you would use a slower RPM saw on? Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter I would like to slow down the RPM for metal cutting purposes (metal roofing panels).
And why not to use Makita's dedicated metal cutting saws? Because I want a blade left saw.
Thanks
@@benbjr Ah, I see. Thanks for your comment. Cheers.
That is dumb! Why da phunk would you EVER want to slow down the speed?
Get the brushed version, which turns at 3700. Basic kit, yet still very solid saw.
Cheers 😁✌🏻
@@georgedavall9449 thanks legend
Já tava na intenção. De comprar. Mas só o fato dela não ter apoio. Modelo dhs 680. Desisti. Em compensação a modelo. Dhs 660, é top, bateria fica bem acoplada.. Só não gostei, aposição do disco. Ficou do lado esquerdo. Já modelo. Dhs 680 tá de cordo. Seria máximo. Os fabricantes teimam em fabrica. As Serra circular com corte lado esquerdo. Dificulta fizualizacao cortes. Também na pegada da máquina. Vou esperar a makita. Desenvolver. Uma assim. Igual a modelo. Dhs 660 com o disco lado direito. Com a bateria igual a da dhs 660. Assim seria maravilhoso.
Hi Joselito 🖐 I hear what you are saying and hopefully Makita will bring out a saw like you describe🤩 Cheers Del
Isn't the 680 base a different material, not aluminum.
The base and guard are magnesium.
Hi Mark. I think you're right, the base is cast magnesium. 🤥 Thanks for your comment. 👍
Yeah its magnesium the base lighter stronger than aluminium I have one the gaurd is to
Hi Gents! Which one to get?
If I could only have one🤔I would have the 680 blade left👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks a lot. Thought the same and you confirmed me.
well why didnt you get a 680z with a rafter hook?
Hi. It did come with a rafter hook, but I removed it as it just adds weight and I don't find them particularly useful. Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter ive got hands like shovels. tried my mates 660 and it was a nightmare. 680 for me on 6ah batts is as good as it gets. ok its a bit rattly and feels like a childs toy sometime lol but i dropped mine from 2m up and it bounced a bit but lived :)
i find that rafter hook invaluable for what i do(landscape/fencer)i just hang it onto either my horse or fence rails.
ps/ you say it adds weight but i think it more balances the weight of the saw
@@thanxx I've turned into a bit of a weight weenie as I've got older, and both these saws, for me, are for lighter roofing work. They, (and pretty much ALL these brushless battery saws), are all pretty awesome and make all of our jobs so much easier. Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter ha ha he dun care coz he got dem shovel hands, 🤷🏻♂️🙄😀😃😂🤣👍😁✌🏻
In the US: XSH04 vs XSH03
Hi there. Yeah, they are the same saws with different model numbers.🤪 Thanks for your comment. 👍
Perhaps some weights could be affixed to the DHS680 to keep it from rolling over.
That could work Eric🤔It's only a little thing, but still annoying 🙄 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Спасибо. Палец вверх Вам
аплодисменты😎
👍🏻
😎👍
Hey, really great comparison, I'm about to buy one of these saws so I have already watched unhealthy amount of videos of them :)Your comparison is the best! Now that you have 660 for a while, do you find the right sided blade better suited for a right handed person, isn't it weird to lean over to check the blade while cutting? BTW you can fix the 680s wobbliness by removing the depth adjusting lever and readjusting it before putting it back, like so: ua-cam.com/video/3UCXqmwtgbk/v-deo.html
Hi there. I find a bladed right saw more comfortable to use but only in certain applications. When cutting 90 degree cuts, yes, you have to lean over the machine to see your cut line, BUT, anatomically, this causes you to bring the saw closer to your body and consequently more in your bodies natural, 'power zone', leading less fatigue. Remember, I am a professional user and will be using this saw day in day out in challenging environments. Also blade right saws throw the dust away from the body, and, when doing 45 degree cuts, the cut line is MILES easier to see on a blade right machine due to the whole motor assembly being tilted out of the way. There's not a right or wrong, way when it comes to blade side, but it can be relevant based on whet you want to do with the saw. Interestingly, the first thing I did when I got my 680 was not only re-index the depth adjuster lever, but also crush down fixing whole to stop it rattling. The rest of the rattling is from the guard and the tilt lever. Thanks for you comment. Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter What an exhaustive and swift answer! It contained all the information I was looking for and than some. Finally I can make a decision (660 it is) and rest easy. Hope to see more videos from you in the future!
I would not worry about either of the 2 saws as this time next year we will all be using the 40v. Makita...:)
Hi Gavin. Have you got one? I hear they are pretty special.😎
@@thetallcarpenter No mate, I'll stick to the 18v platform for the time being. Just too many tools to replace. However, my first purchase will be the circular saw as my Makita 680 is due retirement. Mind you I sold my Makita mitre saw and bought a Hikoki cordless mitre saw, love it.
I'm hearing power-wise not much difference, it's the run time that there's a vast improvement between the 18/40v...
@@gavincollins9376 You can loose your mind Gavin when it comes to tools.😫 manufacturers know this so keep bringing out shiny new things.🤩Cheers
@@gavincollins9376 Longer run times makes sense.😎 Its bonkers to see where this battery technology will take us.🤪 Cheers
great video! if you was given a pound for every-time you said *erm* you'd be a millionaire.. apart from that really helpful
Hi there. I know mate. This was amongst some of my earliest attempts a making videos. 'Erm' is a 'filler word' that I didn't even realise I used as much as I did until I started filming myself. Its something I've been working on a lot and its, hopefully, getting better in my later videos👍Thanks for watching bud😎
@@thetallcarpenter don’t worry bud! I was the same in my early videos! It’s amazing when you what yourself back! Appreciate the reply and thanks for sharing
@@TomShorrock 🤩👊👊
@@thetallcarpenter Looking at either saw.there is a 661 now which has "Bluetooth" still have to buy gadget! turns sucker on/off!. Get so much confusing spec's on websites!!! one saws 660 has blower 680 not.Reputed rail connector for 660 is alloy while 680 more plastic/nylon someone cussing "warped" from new.
Ive the Blunder bus saw 5903RK kit which only used to rip a dozen larch boards down and some thick French Green Oak planks but just to big for most things with "Pinkies" vulnerable! trying to cut say 2x2's etc yes it's an awesome saw Friend cutting Oak with it was impressed but thinking of selling off and getting one of these as also handy as can wander up road and zip some pallet wood up as part of a wood working charity that is for well being/mental health & so on & Doing a project making Bird/Bee/Bat boxes and pallet wood is a good source so don't need to cut more than 2" depth. I'm left-handed but it's weird thinking about it as 680 hold in left stand on right/660 hold in right stand on left i guess!
Mind Chainsaws it's a right on controls left hand on front handle! and covered in shite no matter where stand!
Mind was useful ripped 8x4 thick sheets down and got into car!. Was funny seeing bods looking thinking hows going to load up? bing then 346xp fired up sorted!
@@buckrogers2828 Hi Buck🖐Thats a great comment and I enjoyed reading it👊Both of the saws in the video are super handy and portable, so I guess its what suits the individual best👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
I binned my gutless cordless makita and bought the same saw corded, much better
Hi Marcus🖐You'll never beat the power of cordless, and these 18v saws definitely have their limitations🤔but I find them brilliant on the right work👊Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Would have loved to see a side by side cutting comparison? 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍✌🏻✌🏻😂🇬🇧🇺🇸
Hi George. I have got footage of them cutting side but I'm saving it up for a video on which is best, blade left or blade right. I know its a hotly debated subject. Thanks for your comment.😀 Cheers.
Not enough power if used as a daiy skil saw.
Ok for 1/4 " ply or facia boards thats it
Hi Marcus🖐I agree that these are not an all day saw for, say roof framing, but I use them with great effect in conjunction with my bigger saw, on most of my jobs, and wouldn't be without them👊Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter What are you picking your bigger saw up for? And is it a depth of cut thing or a power thing?
@@willhinds8111 Hi Will🖐 It's a combination of both more power and a deeper cut, especially if doing compound cuts and ripping in 47mm thick timber👊Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Tip, invest in a tripod, because the shakes video is very unpleasant
Hi Ben🖐Thanks for the advise bud, and this was one of my earliest videos shot on an old smartphone🤪Check out some of my newer videos to see if you can see any improvement 😀 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I for sure will, because I like you unbiased reviews 👍
@@benhelder7525 👍😎
looks more like a downgrade to me
everything is worse
plastic guide
and that base plate doesn't fancy me at all
Hi Daaf🖐Despite those things you mention, it's actually turned out to e a great little saw for my kind of work👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
why didn't I see this before buying DHS660...😡
Oh no Pero😩Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
If you are not speaking on Russian, don't translate your video titles to russian.
👍
Это автоматом ютуб переводит, а не он)