Pulling out my 300 I6 right now. Spun the back 3 rod bearings and it'll still pull it's own weight and then some. Built like a tank, and it's getting a new one in it's place, same engine.
Nice work man ! I would love to do this type of work but where i live (france) we don't do that. The infrastructure ,logistics and machine tools,etc are not suited for engine rebuild, It's not a 'thing' here , only rare specialists know how to do it. Usualy we put old motor in the thrash and buy a new one , It is a shame :(. The auto industry here is so much different from the US. I feel People here don't love their car as much as you americans do. (Sorry if my english is not perfect)
That's sad.... I personally think there's nothing like taking an engine or manual transmission apart and fixing it. Relieves a lot of stress doing something fun!!!
The Ford 300 my favorite motor …. I’ve had 2 of them now the current 1 I have was my father’s it sat for a year until I got it and got it back on road again… these motors are tough as nails
For anyone viewing this, if you should ever need to pull the timing cover, replace the gears with a set from an industrial 300cid engine. They all got metal gearsets for timing instead of the phenolic ones in the pickups. You might find the occasional metal set in a pickup, but most weren't. It's a little more noisy, but they'll never break teeth and fail.
Awesome buddy your just like me I’m 15 and built my f150 with a 6 cylinder from another pickup I plan on putting a 460 in the truck that I’m currently rebuilding it’s nice to know that there’s other young kids out there working with cars 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
bring back the 300!! Best engine I ever ran in the long line of Ford trucks I've owned. 1993 F-150 300 was amazing. Bought it new. I like the 5.0 Coyote in my 2014 STX but it's not half the truck the 93 was. Nice work buddy. I'll check back soon. Have a 170 to rebuild in my 1962 Falcon so at least there's that .
It sure is nice to be able to do all the work on the engine with it on a stand. My 1990 sits so high off the ground that it's hard to do anything from the top side.
This young man is already a great mechanic. Most kids his age are stuck on video games while life is spending away. He is well on his way to greatness. God bless you even more, young man.
Once I get the title for my '86 F-150 squared away, I'm about to embark on the same journey. It's been sitting for about 17 years now and appears to be completely locked up. Way to make it look easy!
These are really good engines I got one in my 1995 f150 with 576000 on it had it sense new. Still runs good keep maintenance up on it i don't rag on it its always started up for me.in my book they are the cummins of gasoline engines just as reliable.
It’s like you know what you’re doing. 😁 Very good job. For us older mechanics with decades of experience, it’s definitely nice to see you young guys with knowledge and dedication to help keep this stuff alive. My wife and I have a ‘78 F150 with a 300 straight six. These, in my opinion, are the best engines Ford ever built. It’s too bad they don’t make them any longer. I’m partial to Chevy small blocks but love many Ford and Chrysler engines such as these and that indestructible slant six. Nice work my friend. Hope you’re better now!
You sure seem to know your stuff. I’m just now getting brave enough to tear into a motor for the first time. I picked up a 94 fuel injected 300i6 with what I believe to be a burned or stuck valve. They seem like the perfect engine to practice on.
Those old motors were the best. I'm happy to see you got started early in life with motors too. I got started when I was 9 helping my dad pull a motor out of a 93 s10 I believe. But I been into it ever since. Hell I'm working on pulling a motor out of a 2000 f150 now. Lol. Just taking a smoke break. Lol. Great job bud
@@niteclydn sorry you haven't done your research the 4.9 is the worst because the oil filter is mounted sideways and over night all the oil runs out of the filter back into the pan and starts dry my 95 has 120k and its knocking its ass off because of this problem my 92 with 5.0 has 127k doesn't knock at all
Put one in my 1960 F-100. Did like this guy with a cam that is 1 step up from stock, 4BBL, split header, pertronix distributer/coil, duel exhaust, AOD Transmission (Truck Was Already An Automatic) Runs like a scalded dog. 250 RWH & 350 RWTQ. With the AOD, gets 27 MPG highway with 45 gallon rear mount tank
I just changed metering rods and i get 20mpg highway with 16:1 afr cruising, prob because of the ported head. 8 second 0-60 on 5,100 lbs but... 27mpg. I'm guessing it has overdrive??
Just picked me up a 1987 ford f150 with the 300 in it and it leaks i feel like this video gave me a little bit more confidence to pull the motor to work on it lol
Good! To fix an oil pan leak you just need to lift the engine 6 inches by removing the 2 mount bolts. The other gaskets are easy. The rear main is an engine removal.
Awesome! I’m from Germany and I just bought a F-250 300 inline 6 from ‘86. Good conditions but much work to do! Unfortunately there is definitely not much acknowledge with these engines in this area. Do you have some recommendations finding more information about rebuilding the engine? Cheers from Germany
Yes order a haynes manual. It is a book that tells you how to rebuild the whole truck. Its great. I use it every time I need information instead of reading amateur Forums on the internet. The most helpful information is to torque patterns torque specs and all the clearances for the whole engine. The part number is 36058. I just looked and there's one on eBay that ships to Germany for only $20 or 18€, may not be free shipping though. Anyway It's a great and helpful book and well worth the money! Good luck!
mechanical king thanks bro, I just ordered it. My truck runs a bit too rich and the idle speed is high. And after driving when I switch off the engine I’ve got a huuuge Backfire. I have replaced a lot but still have it. I think about replacing the carburetor too, any idea which carburetor to order? I think it’s the best idea of getting a original one?! Thanks for your help ;)
@@finnmitchell88 If you're not looking for a lot of power. An ebay 1 barrel will work. You may want to get the stock intake for that carb. It doesn't matter which one. It just has to be a 1 barrel intake. Or you could cut the stock intake. There might be clearence issues with the hood though. And if you do end up getting another intake try to match the years of carburetor and intake.
Looked like you honed the cylinders with the crack still in the block. If so you must remove the crank and super clean it to get all the shavings out. Also it would be a shamed it you didn't put $50 wourth of crank bearings in it.
Woow so all the sudden a cylinder hone puts off metal shavings? It's more like metal dust that is wiped off of the cylinders along with the oil every time I check them to see how far its hoaned and the crank has never been out. I just replaced the rod bearings for the fun of it and after all those 175 shots of nitrous they still looked great.
man great job, i have a f150 95 4.9l and i love my truck because It was from my grandfather and I remember him driving it when he lived🙁😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
Listen to Me.. Clean the remain's of the head bolt real good then grind what's sticking up to a cone or sorta point and weld a 5/8s Or 9/16s nut on whats left allow it to cool then back it off with a Big box end wrench DO NOT use an EZ out they are NOT EZ .. weld it up and back off the nut you welded in place .. That really works very well
There was no bolt sticking out at all I ended up just drilling it and tapping it because I broke all of my tap wrenches with that stupid easy out. The stock head bolts are apparently made out of a soft metal so I could get away with using a Cobalt bit from Northern Tool. But next time I have this situation in there is a bolt sticking out I will use that trick!
I am going to get a 1954 international pickup tomorrow and it has a really similar engine, straight 6 and apparently some of the parts are interchangeable
Hey, for future reference, since the 4.9 is so long and heavy keeping it on a stand has the possibility of warping the motor, putting it on blocks is a good way of taking he risk out of the rebuild.
mechanical king, if you ever get around to pulling the head off, take a nice straight edge and check for low spots, you can do the same to the cylinder head. If you do find uneven surfaces a little trip to the machine shop will straighten thing out.
mechanical king, def have it checked by a reputable machinist in your area, and while it’s at the machine shop you can check the deck of the block yourself with a good straight edge and a feeler gauge. Also, I may have skipped passed a part or 2, but did you use new head bolts ?
Its an efi intake manifold with a block off plate and a hole in the top for the carburetor. It definetily picked up at least 50hp from the stock intake
Do you see them much in England in trucks and stationary applications? A place I used to work for had a mobile air compressor powered by one. The thing was as reliable as a hammer and didn't leak a drop of oil or even burn oil.
Nice work. If ya don't mind me asking what kind of intake are you using? I have a 1980 Ford F-150 with a 300 inline 6 and I'd love to soup it up one day
IT HAD 2 BROKEN HEAD BOLTS OR they broke during removal/teardwon? I havent tore down and rebuilt an engine since HS but dont you usually crack ALL the head a quarter turn, then go from there, especially on a long straight six where warpage could put alot of pressure on head bolts if you fully loosen sum before cracking them all?
That video remember my old time with my dad all the steps that you did to rebuild the engine lot of trucks in Mexico like that thanks for the video gracias por El video
I own an '86 F150, that's the last year of the carb'd engines. If you're in a state that exempts emissions requirements for older vehicles, drop your EFI intake for an Offenhauser Dual-Port intake manifold. Get an electric fan from the wrecking yard or buy a cheap one off E-bay and ditch the stock fan and clutch, it's worth 1 mpg and about 10 rwhp. You'll notice the increased performance immediately. What cam did you put in it?
@@mechanicalking You can add a GM HEI ignition module to replace the Duraspark module, it's an multispark discharge below 3000 rpm where the 300L6 basically does all it's work. The wiring diagram to replace the DS module is on the web alot of places. Get the hottest coil your system will take and open up the gap a bit over the stock. More air and fuel are coming in and you need a hotter and longer spark to take advantage of the increase.
@@mechanicalking Electric fan all the way, take it for a quick rip without a fan (pull the blades not the belt, and watch the temps) and you won't want to put a fixed fan back on. I have a 96' F150 2wd with 5 spd, and 2.73's on 29's. Engine is an 85' with EFI manifolds, offy DP, Holley 390, DUI distributor and a electric fan from a 98 cavalier. Works far better then stock (aside from a finicky Holley). Good work on the build and vid, Cheers!
Pedestal head has better valve stem tip geometry/adjustability, and pivots more precisely. Would like to own one of these some day, but with just the 1 barrel carb. Really doesn't need 4 barrel if it has strong compression. ( 200 psi. )
The engine runs efficiently/cleanly at 200 psi. No turbo, of course. It needs positive stem seals as well, and good bronze guides. Anyway, if it runs, that's what matters.
I had an F-250 with the 300EFI six in it and the 4 spd granny gear transmission. Nobody would believe how much green oak firewood I hauled off the side of a mountain with that truck. I’ve stacked wood way over the top of the cab and pulled a 7500lb trailer loaded behind it. I’ve for a 2500 Silverado with a 5.7 v-8 that’s gutless compared to the old Ford six. I could kick myself for selling the old Ford. This Chevy can’t hold that old trucks jock strap when it comes to working.
Holy shit, that sounds nice! Great work buddy. You should've put two or three single barrel carburetors on that instead one four barrel. Yeah you need to fabricate some shit, but it's worth it.
hey i got the same engine in my 1966 mercury and i was wondering where you got all the parts like gaskets spark plug wires distributor rad things like that all of mine were stollen off the truck before i got it so help me out lol nice job tho nice to see a kid my age do thing thing i love most
Probably and excellent rebuild... but you placed the camera filming against the garage door light. 75% of your program was a video of you working on an un-see-able dark inline 6 cylinder motor. The tapes conclusion suggested that your engine overhaul was successful. You needed flood-lights on your subject.
You work hard, but you have much to learn, if you want it to run better use flat top pistons, never put your timing cover on before you check for true topdead center, and advance or retire your timing to give max compression by adjusting the key way on the timing gear on the cam . A solid lifer cam and roller rockers, and increase your oil pump pressure to 50 lbs and add an after market distributor. Bingo you just doubled your factory horse power with a good 650 carb.
Good to see a young man working on something besides a Honda. Offenhauser makes a nice 4 barrel intake and hedman makes a nice header for the 300 ci ford engine.
@@Numbdangler It's an aluminum plate. The aluminum plate has tapered holes on top for tapered screws what you can do with a regular drill bit. Those screws go down into the intake where you take out the freeze plugs and put nuts on the end of those screws. There are four threaded holes for the carburetor studs.
Almost an efi engine lol! It's an 82 block and cylinder head so it doesn't have the alignment pins for the exhaust manifolds, which kinda sucks but the pistons are efi ;)
@@mechanicalking I was wondering about some of the those things. Once I saw the upper intake with the carb, I fi you just had some of the nicer things the EFI got.
So all I have to do is take off my 84 carb and intake, and swap with an EFI intake like you did and add a 4bbl carburetor, and cap off the the other parts??
Will one of thes ford big 300 six easily drop into an earlier ford falcon say 1970 and earlier or is it too much work but i am aware you may have to modify the bonnet or hood as its called over there to clear the top of the motor, kinder like what ford australia did with the british ford cortina when the ford factory fitted the falcon six in it around 1971 to 82.
@@mechanicalking yeah I have a timming light just wanted to see if she started. I did a compression test all cyl s test 165 psi. Now I will tear in to it clean it up set timing. Put a new carb on it. You know the drill. The green truck engine is running really good so I may never need this one. But it's back up.
Man I really wanna do this, my old ford baby needs it. seems like ur not too much older than me and know a little more than me but I think I could pull apart a 300 I6. Pretty dope and I learned a little too I dont know alot about mixing carb with EFI parts but u made it seem easy. Question how did u prime the oil pump with a drill? I havent really got to work on civilian vehicles much I work on these diesel military bs trucks. Also I wanna throw in a cam set in my truck pretty much same stuff there. Do I need to do anything to my timing ratio? Thanks in advance bro and look forward to seeing more rebuilds.
Do it. And no the timing marks line up with the Cam Kit. And I recommend buying an intake in getting a used carburetor that still works. I love these because I changed my connecting rod bearings yesterday for like $30 including the oil pan gasket.
Fucking awesome! Its great to see another young guy showing real love for the Ford 300 and older trucks! I'm 23 and am just starting to rebuild my 1966 F350 I purchased a couple years ago. Almost got the body done and next I'll be rebuilding the engine with a TURBO! Any tips you have from experience?
Wow that's awesome I didn't even know they made those in 1966! All I can say is please don't cut Corners with the paint and cab seals or any seals for that matter. A truck of that age would be made out of a lot better Steel than mine is, the water will still find its way in and ruin it.
WOW! Good luck! and with the porting I've done inside the cylinder and ports +dual 2 1/2" exaust, IF I had the 240 ci head to bring the compression up from 8.5/1, got a proper(expensive)distributer, and got one of those water cooled intakes (way shorter runners than mine), I could have a 16ish mpg daily driver (with these rear gears(i like them..lol)) and if tuned right could be 300+ hp. First its loud and allready fast with 180-230ish hp, and the only reason I would do all that is to make it actually sound like it has a cam. You may have the answer to this. I'm having trouble tuning it for a cool sounding idle like I see other people have. It has vacuum advance and a duraspark 2 distributer, it idles smooth. Do you think its those long ass intake runners or spark break-out or something else??
Please tell me he didn't lift up on that engine hoist boom to raise it at the 0:45 mark... Very very dangerous to do guys. Doing this can easily allow air to to be sucked in past the seal on the cylinder resulting in a very possible catastrophic accident if that air was to slip back out past the seal again with a lot of weight on it. I've seen it happen and it's not pretty. Luckily, in our situation, the only damage was to the core support of the guy who lifted the boom and then denied it when I asked him if he did. It only dropped an inch or two but the sudden drop actually broke one end of the lift chain and the swinging motor/trans did the rest. Scary stuff.
Head bolts Hay if they are stuck the easy trick is to tighten the bolts around the stuck one and then the stuck bolt will come out just pulling the head straight off with an air gun just dos not work for me this is an interesting video thank you for your time
Send video to Elon Musk; Ask Elon to fund your college degree for mechanical engineering, with the proviso that you will work for Elon for the first five-ten years out of college in Elon's R&D department as Head of R&D....Talent like yours comes along oh...at least every thirty thousand years or so...Best of luck and success to you young man, you have already earned it!
Stop wasting time. If you haven't graduated from high school yet, go take your GED. Once you get your GED, go apply to your local community college and apply for the PELL GRANT. The PELL GRANT will pay for your Associates degree. That's TWO YEARS. Then when you get your Associates Degree, apply to the university of Illinois at Champagne Urbana. Enroll in the mechanical engineering program. Study hard...lay off the girls until AFTER you graduate with Honors at the top of your class. While enrolled at U of I, send Elon Musk letter telling him that you are enrolled in Mechanical Engineering at U of I, and that you would like to be considered for a position in his research and development department when you graduate. Set you sights high. Why would you go to a tech school as a student, when you could be teaching the class? You want to learn welding?!$%## get your pa to buy you a 250.00 dollar tig or mig welder. They come with an instruction book...
Yeah no I am going to tech and going to work my way up from there I do not need all of that too be successful right now I'm happy in high school and I'm having no problems
Why does the pistons have that hole in the head ? Is it because of the big bore? It looks like it has a long stroke too. I'm about to buy one of this trucks and it has a I6 like this one.
didier banegas the recess in the top add strength to the piston and also distributes the load to the Piston instead of the cylinder walls. I do not think that those are stock Pistons, normally they have a heart-shaped recess shaped about the same as the heart in the cylinder head.
other, the dish in the piston is to lower the compression ratio as the head on this engine is probably the same design as the earlier 240 inline six plus, this engine is used in industrial applicationa where it is fueled with natural gas or propane gas where the compression is much higher so they adjust the dish volume to reach the ratio required
New Sub here & thanks for the time lapse video! I’m doing a 1995 4.9L E150 van right now with 190K miles. Did you just go with Standard piston rings & bearings? If so, how did you know proper sizes? Are they stamped on the bottoms? As a rule, if the engines never been rebuilt, would be assumed it’s just Standard sizes? I’m asking so I can buy my engine Rebuild kit now before tearing it down.
You need to tear it down and get it speced before ordering. I put those bearings and rings back in to save time and money. This engine has been rebuilt once(plus this one). For a first rebuild the stock bearings normally get replaced(unless the unthinkable has happened to an engine). I was able to measure of the bore's taper out, piston clearance, and for the Ring Gap I used a feeler gauge. Take your engine to a local machine shop so they can tell you which rings to buy and if you need to buy over-sized Pistons/rings, whether you need your engine surfaces decked, whether you need your engine hot soaked, and whether your crankshaft needs to be turned and balanced. Rock-auto makes it easy for you to chose how much oversized, if any, that you need. This engine costed me $200, drove it 500 miles before wanting to waste money on goodies... I did rehone the cylinders. Also do yourself a favor and spend the extra time on buying the right seals. As far as a rebuild kit goes, Rock Auto makes it easy for you to choose those specific aftermarket specs so everything last long. Feel free to ask any questions, hope this helped and thanks for subscribing!
mechanical king It already runs good & NOT plated because it stays on the farm property only to feed the cows etc. At 195k miles I wanted something to just tinker with. Dad says no ones been inside the motor because he bought it New in 1995. Wasn’t gonna pull the motor but rather I was gonna do it in place like I’ve seen others do with other motors on UA-cam. Any thoughts?
No the bearings are made out Babbitt most of the time which don't have any room really to be stamped. But if I were you I would just buy all new oem size bearings and hand polish the crank. Be careful with the cam because you really don't want to pay $300 for a cam bearing removal tool just to get those stupid things out which half the ones they sell don't even fit.
If you want this thing to last another 200,000 miles I would push to see that motor torn down and get the cylinders bored oversize. I guarantee you 100% chance that the inside of those cylinders are toast. The motor that was originally in this truck I painted and took it to the machine shop and the 50+ years of experience Machinist(friend) said the crank is out of balance the connecting rods were stretched(typical) and the block and pistons were .050 over so 2-3 rebuild.. that was a huge lesson for me I spent over 20 hours prepping that motor and Sandblasting it. The trucks odometer only goes to 99,999 so honestly we may be talking about a truck with 1-2-3-4 98,789. Are you just wanting to throw something together or are you wanting it to be reliable?
Can’t find any info on reinstalling my fulcrums on a 1995 E150 4.9L engine. The bottom of the fulcrum bearing has grooves so oil can flow better & shaped the the letter V. How do they get / direction should the V grooves go?
Hit the bell next to the Subscribe button to see all of the rad videos that I'll be posting soon!!!
After knowing, raising, seeing, hearing and talking to today's kids, THIS kid is a pure gem!
A talented young man
Its great to see and young man turning wrenches instead of pushing buttons on a video game ! great job !
Thank you! I agree
Boomer
@@mechanicalking I'm so glad I grew up wrenching instead of growing up in the suburbs and winding up as a statue toppling snowflake.
@@Mrcos-qj3tg you sound like a little bitch
@@jamesshaw4954 ok boomer
He reminds me of me. A hundred years ago. Carry on smartly, young man.
Pulling out my 300 I6 right now. Spun the back 3 rod bearings and it'll still pull it's own weight and then some. Built like a tank, and it's getting a new one in it's place, same engine.
Awesome!
Nice work man !
I would love to do this type of work but where i live (france) we don't do that. The infrastructure ,logistics and machine tools,etc are not suited for engine rebuild, It's not a 'thing' here , only rare specialists know how to do it. Usualy we put old motor in the thrash and buy a new one , It is a shame :(.
The auto industry here is so much different from the US. I feel People here don't love their car as much as you americans do.
(Sorry if my english is not perfect)
That's a shame, I'm sorry to hear that,.
That's sad.... I personally think there's nothing like taking an engine or manual transmission apart and fixing it. Relieves a lot of stress doing something fun!!!
That really is too bad. By the way, I was impressed with your near perfect English. I would have thought you grew up speaking English.
@@brettb.7425 that's just because we americans speak it so badly....lol
Thank GOD we don't live in France!!!!!!!!!!!!
Incredible! Great work dude; you worked like a pro on your first rebuild.
It's makes me happy seeing a young man taking a engine apart and fixing it passing our knowledge God bless you keap lerning
Thanks and you too!
The Ford 300 my favorite motor …. I’ve had 2 of them now the current 1 I have was my father’s it sat for a year until I got it and got it back on road again… these motors are tough as nails
For anyone viewing this, if you should ever need to pull the timing cover, replace the gears with a set from an industrial 300cid engine. They all got metal gearsets for timing instead of the phenolic ones in the pickups. You might find the occasional metal set in a pickup, but most weren't. It's a little more noisy, but they'll never break teeth and fail.
Yeah and sometimes those plastic ones don't even have holes for a puller
Your dad must be very proud of you, I know I am .! Thumbs up for sharing.!
Awesome buddy your just like me I’m 15 and built my f150 with a 6 cylinder from another pickup I plan on putting a 460 in the truck that I’m currently rebuilding it’s nice to know that there’s other young kids out there working with cars 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yes it is
I'm contemplating buying an '85 F150 with an Inline 6. I have zero car knowledge, but videos like these help.
I got my friend to buy one and he likes it just don't overpay
@@mechanicalking It's about $1,000 after taxes, tag, etc. I think that's a good price?
Thats a really good price my freind paid 2,400 for his and its not pretty and is a 2wd. As long as its under 200,000 miles you have a tough truck
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
I’m impressed at your knowledge being that you are still quite young. Honestly, you remind me of me at that age. Good job!
Thanks!
Lol.....what are we? Twins or something?
bring back the 300!! Best engine I ever ran in the long line of Ford trucks I've owned. 1993 F-150 300 was amazing. Bought it new. I like the 5.0 Coyote in my 2014 STX but it's not half the truck the 93 was. Nice work buddy. I'll check back soon. Have a 170 to rebuild in my 1962 Falcon so at least there's that .
Sweet and yeah do post!
Would be awesome if ford brought back a SLIGHTLY modernized 300!
Hell yeah brother, I’m 16 and I’m rebuilding my 1966 300 outta my f100 rn
Cool! Good to see other people rebuilding theirs too
Hey, would love some advice from you guys on my 300 in-line 6 that’s in my 12000lb motorhome. Follow me on Instagram @the_buffs_journey
It sure is nice to be able to do all the work on the engine with it on a stand. My 1990 sits so high off the ground that it's hard to do anything from the top side.
This young man is already a great mechanic. Most kids his age are stuck on video games while life is spending away. He is well on his way to greatness. God bless you even more, young man.
Thanks! I encourage others to do the same!
Once I get the title for my '86 F-150 squared away, I'm about to embark on the same journey. It's been sitting for about 17 years now and appears to be completely locked up. Way to make it look easy!
Good luck!
Wow, you are an impressive mechanic. Can't wait to see more of your stuff!
Thanks!
These are really good engines I got one in my 1995 f150 with 576000 on it had it sense new. Still runs good keep maintenance up on it i don't rag on it its always started up for me.in my book they are the cummins of gasoline engines just as reliable.
I like the way these engines sound, similar to a flathead or Y block. Must've been fun to do it all at once like that.
Me too, its very unique.
It’s like you know what you’re doing. 😁 Very good job. For us older mechanics with decades of experience, it’s definitely nice to see you young guys with knowledge and dedication to help keep this stuff alive. My wife and I have a ‘78 F150 with a 300 straight six. These, in my opinion, are the best engines Ford ever built. It’s too bad they don’t make them any longer. I’m partial to Chevy small blocks but love many Ford and Chrysler engines such as these and that indestructible slant six. Nice work my friend. Hope you’re better now!
Thanks brother! I never lose hope in this setup
We learn by our mistakes. I know I did. Good job young man. Proud of you!!!
You sure seem to know your stuff. I’m just now getting brave enough to tear into a motor for the first time. I picked up a 94 fuel injected 300i6 with what I believe to be a burned or stuck valve. They seem like the perfect engine to practice on.
Awesome
Those old motors were the best. I'm happy to see you got started early in life with motors too. I got started when I was 9 helping my dad pull a motor out of a 93 s10 I believe. But I been into it ever since. Hell I'm working on pulling a motor out of a 2000 f150 now. Lol. Just taking a smoke break. Lol. Great job bud
Thanks!
Nice man . It's a bullit proof engine . I own a 85 with the same engine setup.
Awesome!
I also own a 85 granny low
Very nice
Ive had quite a few of these motors. My dad swore by em. I still think its the best engine Ford ever made!!
Yessir
Its actually the worst Ford built
@@jamesshaw4954 sorry about your crack addiction
@@niteclydn sorry you haven't done your research the 4.9 is the worst because the oil filter is mounted sideways and over night all the oil runs out of the filter back into the pan and starts dry my 95 has 120k and its knocking its ass off because of this problem my 92 with 5.0 has 127k doesn't knock at all
@@jamesshaw4954 i go by experience, I've had quite a few 300's and many with well over 100k on them, they never failed me. So your comment is invalid
Put one in my 1960 F-100. Did like this guy with a cam that is 1 step up from stock, 4BBL, split header, pertronix distributer/coil, duel exhaust, AOD Transmission (Truck Was Already An Automatic) Runs like a scalded dog. 250 RWH & 350 RWTQ. With the AOD, gets 27 MPG highway with 45 gallon rear mount tank
I just changed metering rods and i get 20mpg highway with 16:1 afr cruising, prob because of the ported head. 8 second 0-60 on 5,100 lbs but... 27mpg. I'm guessing it has overdrive??
I use an air chisel to loosen up broken bolts before attempting to remove them. Works sometimes.
Just picked me up a 1987 ford f150 with the 300 in it and it leaks i feel like this video gave me a little bit more confidence to pull the motor to work on it lol
Good! To fix an oil pan leak you just need to lift the engine 6 inches by removing the 2 mount bolts. The other gaskets are easy. The rear main is an engine removal.
Thanks for the advice i think its the valve cover has only rtv no actual gasket but that helps alot
Awesome!
I’m from Germany and I just bought a F-250 300 inline 6 from ‘86. Good conditions but much work to do!
Unfortunately there is definitely not much acknowledge with these engines in this area. Do you have some recommendations finding more information about rebuilding the engine?
Cheers from Germany
Yes order a haynes manual. It is a book that tells you how to rebuild the whole truck. Its great. I use it every time I need information instead of reading amateur Forums on the internet. The most helpful information is to torque patterns torque specs and all the clearances for the whole engine. The part number is 36058. I just looked and there's one on eBay that ships to Germany for only $20 or 18€, may not be free shipping though. Anyway It's a great and helpful book and well worth the money! Good luck!
mechanical king
thanks bro, I just ordered it. My truck runs a bit too rich and the idle speed is high. And after driving when I switch off the engine I’ve got a huuuge Backfire. I have replaced a lot but still have it. I think about replacing the carburetor too, any idea which carburetor to order? I think it’s the best idea of getting a original one?!
Thanks for your help ;)
@@finnmitchell88 If you're not looking for a lot of power. An ebay 1 barrel will work. You may want to get the stock intake for that carb. It doesn't matter which one. It just has to be a 1 barrel intake. Or you could cut the stock intake. There might be clearence issues with the hood though. And if you do end up getting another intake try to match the years of carburetor and intake.
You should add a small turbo on it! Nice work!
Looked like you honed the cylinders with the crack still in the block. If so you must remove the crank and super clean it to get all the shavings out. Also it would be a shamed it you didn't put $50 wourth of crank bearings in it.
Woow so all the sudden a cylinder hone puts off metal shavings? It's more like metal dust that is wiped off of the cylinders along with the oil every time I check them to see how far its hoaned and the crank has never been out. I just replaced the rod bearings for the fun of it and after all those 175 shots of nitrous they still looked great.
man great job, i have a f150 95 4.9l and i love my truck because It was from my grandfather and I remember him driving it when he lived🙁😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
Listen to Me.. Clean the remain's of the head bolt real good then grind what's sticking up to a cone or sorta point and weld a 5/8s Or 9/16s nut on whats left allow it to cool then back it off with a Big box end wrench DO NOT use an EZ out they are NOT EZ .. weld it up and back off the nut you welded in place .. That really works very well
There was no bolt sticking out at all I ended up just drilling it and tapping it because I broke all of my tap wrenches with that stupid easy out. The stock head bolts are apparently made out of a soft metal so I could get away with using a Cobalt bit from Northern Tool. But next time I have this situation in there is a bolt sticking out I will use that trick!
I am going to get a 1954 international pickup tomorrow and it has a really similar engine, straight 6 and apparently some of the parts are interchangeable
Cool!
Hey, for future reference, since the 4.9 is so long and heavy keeping it on a stand has the possibility of warping the motor, putting it on blocks is a good way of taking he risk out of the rebuild.
Ok thank you. That makes sense and I think I messed up not getting it decked because it uses coolent alot
William Bell , the only way your gonna warp a cast iron block is by overheating it, it’s not gonna warp because it’s on an engine stand.
mechanical king, if you ever get around to pulling the head off, take a nice straight edge and check for low spots, you can do the same to the cylinder head. If you do find uneven surfaces a little trip to the machine shop will straighten thing out.
In that case. Do you think I should get my cylinder head machined if it blew out a head gasket?? Or should I just put a new one on or something
mechanical king, def have it checked by a reputable machinist in your area, and while it’s at the machine shop you can check the deck of the block yourself with a good straight edge and a feeler gauge. Also, I may have skipped passed a part or 2, but did you use new head bolts ?
Interesting intake manifold, what brand is it? What sort of performance increase to you see after the work you did? Thanks.
Its an efi intake manifold with a block off plate and a hole in the top for the carburetor. It definetily picked up at least 50hp from the stock intake
You've got me amped to rebuild my inline 6 to my 70 Maverick.
Thats what I like to hear!
Nice!!! Been meaning to do this to my 96 F-150
got my 300 this week in England.
Do you see them much in England in trucks and stationary applications? A place I used to work for had a mobile air compressor powered by one. The thing was as reliable as a hammer and didn't leak a drop of oil or even burn oil.
Nice work. If ya don't mind me asking what kind of intake are you using? I have a 1980 Ford F-150 with a 300 inline 6 and I'd love to soup it up one day
Now im using a offenhauser this was the efi intake with a carb adapter
IT HAD 2 BROKEN HEAD BOLTS OR
they broke during removal/teardwon?
I havent tore down and rebuilt an engine since HS but dont you usually crack ALL the head a quarter turn, then go from there, especially on a long straight six where warpage could put alot of pressure on head bolts if you fully loosen sum before cracking them all?
That video remember my old time with my dad all the steps that you did to rebuild the engine lot of trucks in Mexico like that thanks for the video gracias por El video
I own an '86 F150, that's the last year of the carb'd engines. If you're in a state that exempts emissions requirements for older vehicles, drop your EFI intake for an Offenhauser Dual-Port intake manifold. Get an electric fan from the wrecking yard or buy a cheap one off E-bay and ditch the stock fan and clutch, it's worth 1 mpg and about 10 rwhp. You'll notice the increased performance immediately. What cam did you put in it?
268h comp cam kit and I have historic plates and the intake
@@mechanicalking You can add a GM HEI ignition module to replace the Duraspark module, it's an multispark discharge below 3000 rpm where the 300L6 basically does all it's work. The wiring diagram to replace the DS module is on the web alot of places. Get the hottest coil your system will take and open up the gap a bit over the stock. More air and fuel are coming in and you need a hotter and longer spark to take advantage of the increase.
Ok and i have 55,000 volt coil but mine raps to 7 grand
@@mechanicalking Electric fan all the way, take it for a quick rip without a fan (pull the blades not the belt, and watch the temps) and you won't want to put a fixed fan back on. I have a 96' F150 2wd with 5 spd, and 2.73's on 29's. Engine is an 85' with EFI manifolds, offy DP, Holley 390, DUI distributor and a electric fan from a 98 cavalier. Works far better then stock (aside from a finicky Holley). Good work on the build and vid, Cheers!
Okay! Where should I get the fan at??
Very smart young
Where's the sound Bud?? Good for you though, most young men are on their phones all day. Keep it up and you'll be there boss some day!
Pedestal head has better valve stem tip geometry/adjustability, and pivots more precisely.
Would like to own one of these some day, but with just the 1 barrel carb.
Really doesn't need 4 barrel if it has strong compression. ( 200 psi. )
It is hella fast and you dont get 200 psi with 8:1 compression. Lol if I could do one thing it would be to put flat top pistons in it
The engine runs efficiently/cleanly at 200 psi. No turbo, of course.
It needs positive stem seals as well, and good bronze guides.
Anyway, if it runs, that's what matters.
I know right! I couldn't agree more lol. My dream for it would be 11:1 compression which would be about 210psi
Would like to see you rebuild a 200 inline 6 I’m rebuilding the one out of my 1966 mustang atm
Sure, I'd like to
I had an F-250 with the 300EFI six in it and the 4 spd granny gear transmission. Nobody would believe how much green oak firewood I hauled off the side of a mountain with that truck. I’ve stacked wood way over the top of the cab and pulled a 7500lb trailer loaded behind it. I’ve for a 2500 Silverado with a 5.7 v-8 that’s gutless compared to the old Ford six. I could kick myself for selling the old Ford. This Chevy can’t hold that old trucks jock strap when it comes to working.
Yes they don't build them like the 300's were built
Holy shit, that sounds nice! Great work buddy. You should've put two or three single barrel carburetors on that instead one four barrel. Yeah you need to fabricate some shit, but it's worth it.
no no not 2 or 3 but 3 or 6 hahaha.
Like to know how the carb mod worked out...
Great work man
Thanks man
hey i got the same engine in my 1966 mercury and i was wondering where you got all the parts like gaskets spark plug wires distributor rad things like that all of mine were stollen off the truck before i got it so help me out lol nice job tho nice to see a kid my age do thing thing i love most
Rock auto
Impressive young man!
Thanks!
Regular speed with narration would be helpful for those of us wanting to learn as we follow along.
Probably and excellent rebuild... but you placed the camera filming against the garage door light. 75% of your program was a video of you working on an un-see-able dark inline 6 cylinder motor. The tapes conclusion suggested that your engine overhaul was successful. You needed flood-lights on your subject.
Yes
Impressive, Congrats
Thank you!
There should have been alignment dowels in the block for the head gasket and head. Just for people that are watching this as an example.
It appears that you used a lawn mower blade to compress the springs if so great !
Yes they didn't have the c clamp compressor so I used the studs
@@mechanicalking That was a great idea and one that I will have to borrow from you thanks .
@@timpope1221 no problem be careful
What are you gonna do with that lawn mower blade, Carl.
Are you talking to me or tim?
You work hard, but you have much to learn, if you want it to run better use flat top pistons, never put your timing cover on before you check for true topdead center, and advance or retire your timing to give max compression by adjusting the key way on the timing gear on the cam . A solid lifer cam and roller rockers, and increase your oil pump pressure to 50 lbs and add an after market distributor. Bingo you just doubled your factory horse power with a good 650 carb.
K
These engines came in brazil only efi, but we got a diesel option from factory, so the 300 didnt sold well
Wow i didnt know this
Good to see a young man working on something besides a Honda. Offenhauser makes a nice 4 barrel intake and hedman makes a nice header for the 300 ci ford engine.
Yes I have the offy open bore intake
Hey man I just watched your video which is very informative I'm about to do kinda the same thing and was wondering if I could ask you a few questions?
Yeah
@@mechanicalking I got to many to fit on one message haha. First off, how did you mount the carb onto that intake?
@@Numbdangler It's an aluminum plate. The aluminum plate has tapered holes on top for tapered screws what you can do with a regular drill bit. Those screws go down into the intake where you take out the freeze plugs and put nuts on the end of those screws. There are four threaded holes for the carburetor studs.
Did you just carb an EFI engine? 🤣 I love it man!! Adapting & overcoming!
Almost an efi engine lol! It's an 82 block and cylinder head so it doesn't have the alignment pins for the exhaust manifolds, which kinda sucks but the pistons are efi ;)
@@mechanicalking I was wondering about some of the those things. Once I saw the upper intake with the carb, I fi you just had some of the nicer things the EFI got.
Yep
Ok
So all I have to do is take off my 84 carb and intake, and swap with an EFI intake like you did and add a 4bbl carburetor, and cap off the the other parts??
Will one of thes ford big 300 six easily drop into an earlier ford falcon say 1970 and earlier or is it too much work but i am aware you may have to modify the bonnet or hood as its called over there to clear the top of the motor, kinder like what ford australia did with the british ford cortina when the ford factory fitted the falcon six in it around 1971 to 82.
As long as it had a small block in it with the small block pattern
Where did you get the head bolts? Cause i see different lengths with some sets and same lengths on other sets. Links appreciated, thanks
The lengths should be right on rock auto. The ones that say standard.
Thatsca nice build. I haven't seen this video yet. I guess this is the second engine you bought
Yes it is and it didn't need this but it sure got it, and thanks!
I watched your start-up video and I think you should buy a timing light so you can get it timed properly
@@mechanicalking yeah I have a timming light just wanted to see if she started. I did a compression test all cyl s test 165 psi. Now I will tear in to it clean it up set timing. Put a new carb on it. You know the drill. The green truck engine is running really good so I may never need this one. But it's back up.
Wow! Well good luck and keep the vids up because I like watching them
Next time you prime an engine run that drill for about 30 seconds longer, there’s a lot of places you’re trying to push oil to.
Ok
Man I really wanna do this, my old ford baby needs it. seems like ur not too much older than me and know a little more than me but I think I could pull apart a 300 I6. Pretty dope and I learned a little too I dont know alot about mixing carb with EFI parts but u made it seem easy. Question how did u prime the oil pump with a drill? I havent really got to work on civilian vehicles much I work on these diesel military bs trucks. Also I wanna throw in a cam set in my truck pretty much same stuff there. Do I need to do anything to my timing ratio? Thanks in advance bro and look forward to seeing more rebuilds.
Do it. And no the timing marks line up with the Cam Kit. And I recommend buying an intake in getting a used carburetor that still works. I love these because I changed my connecting rod bearings yesterday for like $30 including the oil pan gasket.
Fucking awesome! Its great to see another young guy showing real love for the Ford 300 and older trucks! I'm 23 and am just starting to rebuild my 1966 F350 I purchased a couple years ago. Almost got the body done and next I'll be rebuilding the engine with a TURBO! Any tips you have from experience?
Wow that's awesome I didn't even know they made those in 1966! All I can say is please don't cut Corners with the paint and cab seals or any seals for that matter. A truck of that age would be made out of a lot better Steel than mine is, the water will still find its way in and ruin it.
WOW! Good luck! and with the porting I've done inside the cylinder and ports +dual 2 1/2" exaust, IF I had the 240 ci head to bring the compression up from 8.5/1, got a proper(expensive)distributer, and got one of those water cooled intakes (way shorter runners than mine), I could have a 16ish mpg daily driver (with these rear gears(i like them..lol)) and if tuned right could be 300+ hp. First its loud and allready fast with 180-230ish hp, and the only reason I would do all that is to make it actually sound like it has a cam.
You may have the answer to this. I'm having trouble tuning it for a cool sounding idle like I see other people have. It has vacuum advance and a duraspark 2 distributer, it idles smooth. Do you think its those long ass intake runners or spark break-out or something else??
Also your engine has like 9/1 compression stock. I believe. So anotherwords.. It would be hyper as hell with boost!
Please tell me he didn't lift up on that engine hoist boom to raise it at the 0:45 mark...
Very very dangerous to do guys. Doing this can easily allow air to to be sucked in past the seal on the cylinder resulting in a very possible catastrophic accident if that air was to slip back out past the seal again with a lot of weight on it. I've seen it happen and it's not pretty. Luckily, in our situation, the only damage was to the core support of the guy who lifted the boom and then denied it when I asked him if he did. It only dropped an inch or two but the sudden drop actually broke one end of the lift chain and the swinging motor/trans did the rest. Scary stuff.
Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
Throw away those spiral e/z outs. Use the square or splined ones only. They don't expand the bolt into the threads.
Agreed
Head bolts Hay if they are stuck the easy trick is to tighten the bolts around the stuck one and then the stuck bolt will come out just pulling the head straight off with an air gun just dos not work for me this is an interesting video thank you for your time
Cool thanks!
How did you learn how to do this yourself I'd like to do this on mine truck if I had the skills
I learned on my dads truck. It was in the first video on the channel.
Hold the idle up ! First start don’t keep it “bucking” !
Yep you are right. I didn't break in the cam correctly and later I ended up with lifter problems.
@@mechanicalking that’s just like murder ! Better do a cam tear down vid of the crime scene - hide the children.
Yes Smith
Nice job bud!
Thanks!
Send video to Elon Musk; Ask Elon to fund your college degree for mechanical engineering, with the proviso that you will work for Elon for the first five-ten years out of college in Elon's R&D department as Head of R&D....Talent like yours comes along oh...at least every thirty thousand years or so...Best of luck and success to you young man, you have already earned it!
Okay thanks
Im going to tech school for two years to get my welding certificates
Stop wasting time. If you haven't graduated from high school yet, go take your GED. Once you get your GED, go apply to your local community college and apply for the PELL GRANT. The PELL GRANT will pay for your Associates degree. That's TWO YEARS. Then when you get your Associates Degree, apply to the university of Illinois at Champagne Urbana. Enroll in the mechanical engineering program. Study hard...lay off the girls until AFTER you graduate with Honors at the top of your class. While enrolled at U of I, send Elon Musk letter telling him that you are enrolled in Mechanical Engineering at U of I, and that you would like to be considered for a position in his research and development department when you graduate. Set you sights high. Why would you go to a tech school as a student, when you could be teaching the class? You want to learn welding?!$%## get your pa to buy you a 250.00 dollar tig or mig welder. They come with an instruction book...
Yeah no I am going to tech and going to work my way up from there I do not need all of that too be successful right now I'm happy in high school and I'm having no problems
Accually you make a good point I may do that
Lot guys brag about the cummins durability. They must not of heard of the old ford 300 strait 6.
Lol today I beat it so hard its not even funny. Never ruins my day when hanging out with buds.
What size bolts did he use to put it on the stand
Next time you take off the rockers, go from the middle out so you don’t accidentally bent the rocker shaft.
Ok
Dope. Is there a manual for rebuilding this engine?
BigZerg Oner Haynes manual
I only use that for the torque specs though
mechanical king ah ok thanks
www.pittauto.com/default.aspx?page=customer&file=customer/piauel/customerpages/pl_ford.htm
Why does the pistons have that hole in the head ? Is it because of the big bore? It looks like it has a long stroke too. I'm about to buy one of this trucks and it has a I6 like this one.
didier banegas the recess in the top add strength to the piston and also distributes the load to the Piston instead of the cylinder walls. I do not think that those are stock Pistons, normally they have a heart-shaped recess shaped about the same as the heart in the cylinder head.
mechanical king 👍 , thanks for the reply.
other, the dish in the piston is to lower the compression ratio as the head on this engine is probably the same design as the earlier 240 inline six
plus, this engine is used in industrial applicationa where it is fueled with natural gas or propane gas where the compression is much higher so they adjust the dish volume to reach the ratio required
@@jacquespoirier9071 bingo.
@@jacquespoirier9071 yeah thanks I didn't know that at the time but the (stock) 1984 dish is even bigger so compression is even lower lower
Is head resurfacing necessary for the motor?
No not usually as long as you use a thick head gasket. I didn't get it done
gracias por tu video excelente. muy bonito....ayudeme soy de venezuela
Did he just hold that with the crank still in I'll let foreign material falling out that crankshaft. Or am I seeing things?
I left it in because it was not bad on the inside
Good hard work.
New Sub here & thanks for the time lapse video! I’m doing a 1995 4.9L E150 van right now with 190K miles. Did you just go with Standard piston rings & bearings? If so, how did you know proper sizes? Are they stamped on the bottoms? As a rule, if the engines never been rebuilt, would be assumed it’s just Standard sizes? I’m asking so I can buy my engine Rebuild kit now before tearing it down.
You need to tear it down and get it speced before ordering. I put those bearings and rings back in to save time and money. This engine has been rebuilt once(plus this one). For a first rebuild the stock bearings normally get replaced(unless the unthinkable has happened to an engine). I was able to measure of the bore's taper out, piston clearance, and for the Ring Gap I used a feeler gauge. Take your engine to a local machine shop so they can tell you which rings to buy and if you need to buy over-sized Pistons/rings, whether you need your engine surfaces decked, whether you need your engine hot soaked, and whether your crankshaft needs to be turned and balanced. Rock-auto makes it easy for you to chose how much oversized, if any, that you need. This engine costed me $200, drove it 500 miles before wanting to waste money on goodies... I did rehone the cylinders. Also do yourself a favor and spend the extra time on buying the right seals. As far as a rebuild kit goes, Rock Auto makes it easy for you to choose those specific aftermarket specs so everything last long. Feel free to ask any questions, hope this helped and thanks for subscribing!
mechanical king
It already runs good & NOT plated because it stays on the farm property only to feed the cows etc. At 195k miles I wanted something to just tinker with. Dad says no ones been inside the motor because he bought it New in 1995. Wasn’t gonna pull the motor but rather I was gonna do it in place like I’ve seen others do with other motors on UA-cam.
Any thoughts?
mechanical king
Aren’t the old bearings stamped size wise?
No the bearings are made out Babbitt most of the time which don't have any room really to be stamped. But if I were you I would just buy all new oem size bearings and hand polish the crank. Be careful with the cam because you really don't want to pay $300 for a cam bearing removal tool just to get those stupid things out which half the ones they sell don't even fit.
If you want this thing to last another 200,000 miles I would push to see that motor torn down and get the cylinders bored oversize. I guarantee you 100% chance that the inside of those cylinders are toast. The motor that was originally in this truck I painted and took it to the machine shop and the 50+ years of experience Machinist(friend) said the crank is out of balance the connecting rods were stretched(typical) and the block and pistons were .050 over so 2-3 rebuild.. that was a huge lesson for me I spent over 20 hours prepping that motor and Sandblasting it. The trucks odometer only goes to 99,999 so honestly we may be talking about a truck with 1-2-3-4 98,789. Are you just wanting to throw something together or are you wanting it to be reliable?
Can’t find any info on reinstalling my fulcrums on a 1995 E150 4.9L engine. The bottom of the fulcrum bearing has grooves so oil can flow better & shaped the the letter V. How do they get / direction should the V grooves go?
It doesn't matter
Did you put new piston rings in it.
Yes
Why would he do that if he's tearing it down and rebuilding it we all know they don't go bad
lol
How you attached carb on top of manifold chumpy?
Bolted on a aluminum plate that has holes drilled for the carburetor to bolt on
I wanna rebuild and improve my 240 inline 6 but don't have the tools and money
I hope you can work something out, good luck!
Did not prime the oil pump did you?
Yes I did with a drill
did u fab that intake?
Not me specifically but yes it is a custom intake
What gearing does your rear have that you turn 2000k @65 with a t18?
It had 3.08:1
How’s she running now?
It ran good up until a month ago and now the truck is wrecked
Wow good job young man
Thanks!
I have watched the whole thing at 0.25 speed not to miss anything. :)
That'll do it haha