Building a New Industrial Model M Keyboard
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- Опубліковано 20 січ 2022
- Today I have the privilege of bringing a new Industrial Grey Model M keyboard into the world! It turned out even better than I thought it would and changed my opinion on Model Ms a bit.
I wasn't sure about the Unicomp keyboards before this video but after experiencing a brand new one in the traditional Model M style, I'm sold. You should probably buy one of those instead of a used example in unknown condition. This keyboard just became my new daily driver because it's so nice, so if something happens along the way, I'll be sure to report it later.
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As much as anything, I'm glad to see a current review of a Unicomp board from someone who knows Model Ms. The two problems I've run into with Model M research is that a lot of the Unicomp reviews I've found are either A) from years ago, when the keyboards were seemingly a lot worse; or B) written by people who are modern keyboard enthusiasts at best and as such don't have as much experience with BS specifically, or more often both. When Model M enthusiasts do review Unicomp, it's usually less than positive and arguably not entirely objective or fair. Seeing a review that has neither problem, and it seeing it so glowing, is very reassuring.
Dude that's an amazing hat. The keyboard's fine too, but... that hat.
That hat!
Ha! I have that hat, mine is official Back to the future merch... :)
I did this same project a year ago, when the covid lockdowns started. I swapped in my german ISO 1992 Model M into a brand new industrial gray housing, and ordered new hungarian keycaps as well. It’s really nice that they take custom language orders for keycaps, they even did side printing perfectly. Compared to the older IBM keycaps, the printing can be a little bit more fuzzy, as well as the font size Unicomp uses is slightly smaller. But now I have an industrial gray, bolt modded Model M, in my native language, hungarian, which was never ever a thing. They made hungarian keyboards, but never an industrial one.
I got a March 2021 "New Model M" using the newer tooling. They only make it in the modern layout with win/menu keys. It's an amazing keyboard imho
Great video!
The Unicomp at 6:02 is called an Ultra Classic (the new Unicomp you received is simply the Classic). It indeed has a metal backplate, but I'm guessing the plastic rivets that hold the backplate and barrelplate together have given in. It's the Model M's Achilles' heel and you'd need to do a screw or bolt mod to fix it. Another point to add for buying a new Unicomp is that buying one new means you get a warranty as well!
can you order one of the classic's from unicomp without their logo? all the pictures on their site have that blue unicomp logo but it doesn't show up on the KB that was shown in this video. is it a separate decal that is shipped and you have the option of putting on yourself? I'd like to get one without the decal if possible, one of the reasons i've held off trying these out.
@@travisbeamon5356 They're preapplied. That said, beige Classics seem to ship with an alternate overlay these days like shown in the video. If you want to be sure, just email them before ordering and ask for a specific overlay. You can search "LED Overlay" on their site to see all their non-logo options (I initially linked the page, but my comment got removed lol). Anyway, they're typically quite accommodating. If worse come to worse though, you could just order the overlay separately and apply it yourself.
@@travisbeamon5356 It might vary by model. Though even with the ugly logo, I like my black and silver model m.
@@sharktastica The Model M keyboard is not beige. The only beige computers ever made are 8 bit plastic computers. Jobs was colorblind or something. The early C64s were beige.
As for "warranty," I would take the alleged warranty with a grain of salt. If an M is working today, unless you are really treating it poorly, it will continue to work. I am pretty sure all of the key switches are individually replaceable.
IBM's warranty I would have had a lot of faith in, but "Unicomp," not so much.
By the way Unicomp's current metal plate is much thinner than gray or metal logo IBM keyboard, can't remember if it's also thinner than the blue logo ones.
Apparently Unicomp have started using new moulds and the quality of their Model Ms have improved dramatically. I have a 2016 and a 2021 model - the newer one has a much less wobbly feel to the keys.
I think they retooled or tuned the keystem molds while they were getting the new molds prepared for the New M and Mini M keyboards since those needed all new case tooling made. I've heard the most finicky tooling is the old machine for dye sublimating the legends on, it's affected by a lot of factors like heat/humidity etc and is hard to keep perfectly adjusted but would be highly expensive to replace
I will also say the same updates have applied to the PC 122, I have no wobble complaints with mine.
Unicomp always had problems with quality control, that is why I still don't have any board from them. I have handled like 10 of them, from really old to brand-new, and all of them had bigger or smaller issues, aesthetical or technical. I would never buy mail-order from them but that, living in Europe, is my only option.
I'm glad Unicomp is keeping the Model M alive, it truly is a keyboard that is last forever, both because they're virtually indestructible (after bolt modding lol) and because people still care enough to keep them in production
Nice to see an actual normal video again. The office video's where great, but normal videos at least mean you are getting set back up again. Who knows, you might even get time for the data general😀
So glad to see you properly back in business, I've been waiting for this!
You could get a space saving model F remake or get a compact unicomp and take it with you, take the purpose of the keyboard you stick in your laptop bag, and then convert *that* to bluetooth.
I do have an F77 as my every day keyboard - one of the best computer related purchases I've ever made. Only downside is that Model M keyboards feel kinda of cheap-ish in comparision.
I'm glad you compared the Unicomp to both a NOS and used IBM keyboard. The feel of new IBM boards varied over time and factory (IBM Scotland vs Lexmark for example) so I'm glad to hear how close you think the Unicomp feels to your NOS IBM. I think a lot of people comparing Unicomp to IBM are doing so to moderately well used ones and are so used to the broken in feel that the Unicomp doesn't feel like what they expect, and therefore they think the new feel of the Unicomp is wrong. Wish I'd picked up one of those industrial cases before they all sold out
I have a few IBM Model M's that are either new or lightly used(numpad data entry only) and there is a huge difference between them and used ones. The less use they have the more force required to press the keys and the sharper it feels. The only really downside the Unicomp has is that the sound just isn't quite as nice, but it feels so much better than a used IBM keyboard that I would pick the Unicomp every time now.
@@TechTangents I know, "keycap molds" and all, but it seems like the precision is just _not there_ with the Unicomp model. If you look at, for e.g., around 8:00, you can see the NOS IBM keys are perfectly aligned. The new Unicomp keyboard's space bar is all catawampus, and the bottom row of numpad keys aren't well aligned either. Even the F-keys have varied space between the bottom of the keycap and the shell cavity. I dunno if any of that really matters (I mean, the space bar doesn't look very secure, but otherwise ....) but it still suggests that.. well, it's no IBM. Is that just a loose mold, or is there something else going on?
@@nickwallette6201 I think the space-bar is just popped. That's not one of the ways the Unicomps are "loose."
@@nickwallette6201 They are using original injection molds (saved from lexmark exit of US) in a new-ish factory
@@TechTangents if you ever get really board or have the time unicomp has spring's in there online store that will work or your older model m. I have to buy used or pulled from old good working model F xt for my 1983 model F xt that I restored the seller on eBay did not know how to pack them up that is another thing you have to think about when buy used or almost new condition. My was smashed in 3 pieces. But restored the case & painted it industrial gray as well. And found a mint like nos beige like in color stock case thought I would use that but just save it for a back up. Great video that guy that sent it in to you is amazing indeed.
I bought a black unicomp model m with a USB connector last year and I love it to bits. Even importing it from Kentucky to the Netherlands made sense as a real Model M goes for more than the Unicomp + shipping and + import duties.
How much are import duties to you? duty, customs and VAT
I first used a model M at a company I used to work for in the late 80s. It was the best keyboard I’d used until I got a Unicomp for my home pc. Yes, the Unicomp was a little more expensive at nearly £200, but the feel is much better than my previous keyboard , which already had a nice feel, with Cherry MX blue switches.
It also bought back memories for my sister, who learned to type on a crt terminal attached to an ibm mainframe.
I wonder if using lightpipes on the original LEDs would have been a better option. Some clear Lucite would have transmitted light quite well without need to de-solder in such a tight space.
Optic fiber would also be a great option, such as in those old toy-ish small christmas trees. A bunch of optical fibres and it would be real nice too.
Almost three full pages of supporters! How far you’ve come ❤️
Great video! Good to see getting back to your typical content.
I haven't noticed any spring wear (I own a ridiculous number of model Ms, something like 30 in various states from various strata) but I have had to bolt mod several. After each bolt mod, no matter the springs, it always comes out great.
my daily driver a a model m picked y pfrom garage, cleaned fied and bow it like sec 560 mercedes... new oil and motor tuning and good for anther 45 years without seeing a mechanic
I very much agree with the use of the unicomp in the Old stock shell. I think you're right that scavenging from an already existing model m doesn't really make much sense. This way, everything wins!
Now you might want to get a replacement black IBM badge for that real old school industrial model m look
I always called the Model M the Steinway of keyboards....typing with them is a joy...
I am an happy user of a Unicomp Classic too! A 105-keys Italian layout, which some of the keycaps taken off a Bull Questar terminal Model M keyboard and never been happier of a keyboard that finally can last more than one year! Since 2015 it has been my desk companion, albeit some complains from my friends when we do voice chatting: "your keyboard is too damn loud!"
I found this informative video to be most informing
Wow, I don't think I've ever been this early to a video before.
Glad the keyboard turn out so well, I might consider grabbing one as well.
the industrial case looks wonderful, I want one for my Model M
You need to push down the front of the keyboard so the two case halves "click" together. In other words, squeeze the two case pieces together in the front so they snap.
I got a Unicomp mini m and I LOVE it. It's great.
I am glad to see Wayne's world! Sorry that I can't write more, but I can't see without my proper glasses.
I bought a new IBM Industrial keyboard from a friend who was building and selling PCs around 1990. I was a fast touch-typist and it was my favorite keyboard ever. I used it until I went Mac in 2008. I gave it to my son when he started working as a software engineer and built a new computer for work. It’s his favorite too although he didn’t learn touch-typing. He used it instead of the supplied keyboard at another job and when they shut down the office during the pandemic he thought he’d never see it again but he managed to get it back and now it’s safely on his home computer. Besides having a great feel it’s easy to take apart and clean and replacement parts are available if you ever need them. That keyboard is built like a tank and should last for many years or even decades.
I had to watch this twice. Super cool video!
Excellent job. Never seen that cable retention solution before, pretty cool. A lot of people mess up the LED relocation, so I'm glad you got it right. Looks fantastic. Also, since it's not original, you might consider getting a USB replacement logic card and cable to make it native USB. For bluetooth, the Handheld Scientific adapter works really well. It's a shame we're all out of those industrial gray cover sets.
Here in Germany IBM Model M in "Good Condition" starts from 129 Euro up to 300 Euro!! What the Heck?!
You are delightful to watch
Damn, the mouse brings back memories. I gave one as a present for his BD to my roommate. He used it for 5-6 years. Those things were durable.
Great video, but I noticed that the bottom of the Industrial M seems not to be fully locked together? Could just be me and/or the camera angle. Next purchase is a new Model M. :)
Although Model M is nothing for me, I just love to watch you tinker with stuff!
Can't wait to see you rebuild it with an NKRO flex PCB that it has been strongly implied to me that some very clever folks are working on ;)
Love unicomp keyboards. They may not be perfect, but i like them.
The "cracking" sounds you normally enjoy is from the UV killing the plastics; Consistent problem I have replacing everyone's electrical accessories.
Shame you didn't have the rectangle leds, otherwise top mod!
I have a collection of Ms. My favorite is the M they made with as mouse belly button. Unicomp sells the springs, and I\m sure with a good cleaning, new springs and a flapper or two, you could have your daily work just as good as the new Unicomp. They also have a tenkeyless version of the M as well. As I recall that will fit in a 19" rack tray.
I’m bolt modding a really weird unicomp model m today, it was new old stock from GE to be used as some piece of cardiology equipment, and has some funny and unique keys. It’s black, and I’ve learned to love it, so I’m giving it a tedious bolt mod. Wish me luck.
Heatshrink would have been an added bonus but I do see you put down some insulation anyway,good job buddy.
I had unicomp build my custom M using that very same grey industrial case. It has never been quite right, right out of the box I had to send it back for warranty because a careless builder pinched the cable. I recently noticed some flippers where flopping and my key action was dull on a few keys so I decided to open it up. Im heartbroken, one of the standoffs is completely broken and the others cracked from them over tightening the screws, very rare case, ruined by the very people who manufactured the damn thing. Oh ya, the loose keys...well over a dozen broken plastic rivets...mind you this keyboard was built March 8, 2021. My first model m experience has turned into a nightmare, thank you Unicomp.
8:38 nasty gap on the spacebar 😁
18:22 be careful with isopropanol around the industrial case. I found it's quite easy for the alcohol to give the grey plastic a noticeable shine. This is not a problem when you're just cleaning where the LED overlay will stick, but if you get it elsewhere on the case it may spoil the appearance a little.
That's one trippy cap
24:30 Nice catch without even missing a beat!
Hey man, I'm an audio engineer, I loved your video. Your audio is OK but if you'd like to improve it, there's some sort of buzzing, either mechanical or electrical, and of course fan noise. You could say it's "authentic", but it does get tiresome after a bit of time. I suggest using an automatic anti-hum plugin on your tracks, and possibly a white noise removal tool that uses FFT. If you have any questions, drop me a note!
Great video! With that old Unicomp Classic keyboard (6:00), have you taking it apart and did a bolt/screw mod? I feel that with the flex that you are having there, it might need it.
I wonder if the wobble keycaps annoy you that much cold replace them with old original caps?
is the keycap that's lose, the stem, or both?
My first Model M keyboard was actually a Unicomp, and I've been using it happily for years. The weirdest thing was going through an old computer magazine from the late 1980s and thinking to myself, "Huh, that looks like my Unicomp keyboard... why was IBM selling Unicomp key... oh, right." It seems like the worst years for Unicomp were the 2010s. I got my Unicomp in 2005 or so, and it seems like the older Lexmark/IBM molds were still in reasonably good condition at that point (probably because it had been less than 10 years since Lexmark stopped making them). People who got one later complained they felt cheap/wobbly. And now it seems like sometime around 2020 or so, they got new molds or reconditioned the ones they have enough that they're good again.
Do anyone know a good ps/2 to usb adapter? I've got a generic one wich not only fails alot to register keystrokes, but it is recognized as a "barcode scanner". And it just sucks
I have my Unicomp (USB) as my daily typer... Love it to death.
I've never seen a Unicomp Model M with a straight space bar.
It's the hardest part for them to make due to the way PBT shrinks as it cools. It's why basically only IBM even bothered with a PBT space bar back in the day, most just used ABS for it even if the rest of the keys were PBT. The wobble has never caused an issue in using a Unicomp keyboard but I agree the bit of rattle and tendency to be in the off angle position take away from the keyboards looks a little
@@St0rmcrash And iirc, even the Greenock Ms had ABS space bars, right? Since that's a distinguishing characteristic of Greenock Ms, that the Space Bar would yellow.
@@fnjesusfreak At least some Greenock Ms had an ABS space bar but not sure if they all did, but a yellow space bar is a Greenock board for sure. They had a weird mix of parts, I got a NOS Greenock boaad and the badge/lock lights are thinner than a Lexmark one with light bleed around the indicators
Unicomp boards are slightly louder. M keyboard has a muffled sound (splitting hairs here) but is a little quieter. I have a Unicomp from about 12-years ago or so, and I never use it. Its literally new. I found the Model M airline reservation model, its the best there ever was or will be--very expensive today if you can find them. I also have an M Spacesaver, which I got almost new, but never use as well. They are over $400 now....lol
Would be even nicer if you could use a big fat rectangular LED for the indicators! Not sure if it'll be like the original, but it'll be better than just a flaky led
I use to use these cases to fix model ms where the case was broken, but my industrial model m is a 1985 square black badge
Didn't the original IBM PC keyboard feature a metal plate on the bottom to add extra weight?
I think on some model F keyboards the bottom of the case was metal. But on model Ms the case has always been plastic with the only metal being the back plate of the switch assembly. The plate got a little thinner over time and Unicomp uses the same thickness IBM was at the end of IBM keyboard production
I love those keyboards
The old "knot strain relief" technique. It's one I've use myself on more than one occasion. The Unicomp is a nice keyboard, but the $100 pricetag is a commitment.
It's actually pretty cheap compared to a lot of other premium or well known mechanical keyboard brands. But the spread of cheap MX style switches has really brought down the entry price of mechanical keyboards quite a lot over the last few years
@@St0rmcrash I've got a Rosewill with Cherry switches that was less than $80. I've had this same keyboard for near enough 5 years now and it just keeps on trucking.
My life is complete. I can die happy now.
You should watch ebay for a black IBM badge. I dunno about now, but last year, I bought a newly made black ibm badge that is perfectly shaped to fit on this keyboard. The guy made them of PCB material, and they're excellent. Perfect finisher for this industrial style keyboard.
Glad you like :)
Since that NOS case has the clips and cutouts for a speaker, I wonder if you could wire one to the Unicomp board.
What does NOS mean?
@@shewbell2176 New Old Stock - an unused example of something that is no longer produced by the original manufacturer.
@@mpf1947 ah ok, I didn't know that was the acronym for it
what LED pack is that? I want to do this as well
Hello, what kind of laptop do you have on your desk (model) and what do you play on it (game name). Thank you!
Can you build a computer monitor, a mouse and a system in an 80's or a 90's style to go with that keyboard?
im excited
What PS/2 to USB adapter are you using at 21:25?
That's one heck of a hat.
What do you do when software expects the use of the Windows or Menu key?
Microsoft Power Toys will allow you to reprogram another key to function as Windows or anything else.
You should do the bolt mod on the new industrial grey one. As bad as the IBM plastic rivets were, the Unicomp ones are atrocious - far worse. Where the IBM rivets took 20+ years to have enough pop off for the keyboard to just stop working, people are reporting that Unicomps get to that point in under 10 years, with some people reporting that they had brand new ones that already had a rivet or two floating around in the case after breaking off during shipping. Given that it's brand new, you won't notice a difference in feel, but it will obviously last much longer.
As for the older one that you've been using for 8 years, Unicomp sells new spring/hammer assemblies. Do the bolt mod on that one and throw new springs in while you're at it and it'll feel like new.
I've rediscovered the joy of my Model M from 1990, and bought an active adapter to connect it to my modern PC. It works great, but it drops keys while gaming, for example, when holding W to move forward, it'll stop responding if I hit a second key. Reviews say it's a problem with the adapter. What adapter would you recommend?
I went one step further on the two I made and found the original cable connector and soldered the cable to it and found two old stock original cables and used those. I also found a guy on ebay making black and silver ibm logo pcb's for these which look like the original badge
How did you remove the existing IBM badge? Or did you just stick the replacement badge on top of the original?
@@SheeplessNW6 knife
I also now added new old stock coiled cables someone from isreal posted on ebay a while back
Might have just convinced me to buy one of these since the 101 key is like 99 bucks and I really dont wanna wait for them to restock the PC122 lmao
I'm surprised you adjusted the LEDs by hand instead of using the replacement LED board that came with the Industrial Model shell.
I've been wanting to buy another mech for my office for a solid while, but I'm hanging up on the fact that while *I* like and enjoy the sounds of such a keyboard, I know for a fact that I'll get noise complaints if I take my Kailh Box Navy board or a Model M in. But I'm not willing to compromise on that feel for a quiet board, either. Guess I'll just suffer with the rubber dome mushboard they issued me. I have problems with linears -- seems like all of them, after a while, develop a problem where it'll register two keypresses where it should only see one.
Why not get something with tactile switches?
Yes, get Cherry MX Blue switches for tactile an clicky, or Browns for tactile and more quiet
@@RetroFett I'm going to assume someone with Kailh box navy does not want cherry swtiches ;)
I love the video, but i must know, where did you get the hat, I NEED one!
A while back I bought an ultra classic Unicomp like that first one you bought, but I got them to customise it by changing it to the Colemak layout. Like you I wasn't super impressed with the feel, sound, and build quality. And while it was nice to have a keyboard with a native layout that's the one I use, I ended up going back to a qwerty keyboard. Not because I switched back to the qwerty layout, but because it was more annoying to have to customise every game for the Colemak layout. It was much easier to just switch back to the qwerty layout for the games, and switch back to Colemak for typing.
I've since managed to buy a couple of genuine model M boards for a "reasonable" price. It was a lot more than I really thought they were worth, but a bargain compared to what they sell for now! And I did daily drive a model M for a while, but I ended up going back to my Filco. Mostly because I felt they were too noisy. I first switched back to my Cherry blue Filco, then when I bought my mac I bought a bluetooth Filco with Cherry brown keys. I needed a wireless keyboard that could switch between my PC and my mac just using a hotkey rather than manually moving the cable, and I wanted one that was less noisy than the Cherry blue or model M.
The Model M's are very noisy, I'm not bothered by that or many other noises(which is how I have a server 2ft from my as I type this) but I could easily see that being a deal breaker. I have a brown switch Das Keyboard and could see that being the best of both worlds but I don't like how little pressure the switches take.
I'm going to be trying some Gateron Blues for the first time soon because I also needed a wireless keyboard for my laptop and went with a Keychrom K8. I got a model with hot swappable switches though because I suspect I'll end up putting greens in there because I like a really heavy typing feel.
I started learning the Dvork layout on a Model M I modified and had a similar experience. I liked the layout and would have preferred it actually, but hotkeys in software became and absolute nightmare to deal with and the typing speed improvement wasn't offset by dealing with that the rest of the time.
@@TechTangents I really wish there were more options for Alps style Matias keyboards. I would love to try their Quiet Click dampened switches for a quiet keyboard with more tactility than MX (though I've heard the Matias clicky is still more tactile). They used to have some issues with key chatter that I hope are fixed now too
Great video, but you missed the money shot on the LEDs lighting up once the keyboard was fully assembled - gutted!
The psychedelic colors on your hat seem unreal ^^
I'm still using my Lexmark-made Model M from 1993.
Hi! What software do you use for video editing on Linux?
I edit with DaVinci Resolve
@@TechTangents Thanks a lot!
There seems to be some strange electrical noise coming through the mic. Sounds like a wave being PWMed.
Can the PC Jr play Tandy 1000 games? I know the Tandy 1000's graphics and sound systems are clones or based off of the Jr's graphics and sounds. But as far as I know, even the lowest 1000 is faster than a Jr, or at least certain Jr configurations. Also, the 1000s are not all in the 5150/XT performance window, with some models being significantly faster than even an XT. Some being even slightly faster than the lowest AT.
Whats the game you play there? great video, thx =]
IF there is anyone that releases a kit to turn your old model M into a model M SPACE SAVER, he will win a lot of money, those space saver keyboards are about 600dollars and rare.
I thought the Model M was a mechanical keyswitch keyboard instead of a membrane keyboard. I just never got the chance to take one apart to see for myself.
I would recommend their new Model M and Mini M, much better than the UltraClassic you had there from 2013. Been using the Mini M lately and it's been great. Really feels like it deserves the title of Model M.
Edit: I've got a later (2018) UltraClassic and it doesn't sound that bad either, I really think yours is broken.
The Mini M looks fantastic and the New M like the next gen/modernized full size board that IBM never got around to making. Fingers crossed that they'll start making them in the classic Pearl/beige color one day
Hey Shelby, a while back you started a series on VGA but then had all your troubles hit. I really look forward to the second part being completed m
What makes it "industrial", just the color or is actually more robust? I mean the basic model m is already pretty damn solid.
Still such a great keyboard btw. I got mine a few years ago, it's older than me yet still near flawless.
Just the color; to match with the IBM-PC grey version that were sold to "industry," rather than the office beige.
@@stephen1r2 Thanks! It's a nice color, almost more military tho.
Love your videos dude, but I really don't know what the point of this one was. Why didn't you just leave the gubbins in the original housing? Why does it make it industrial grade to swap the shell?
I got the best deal I got a used one with plenty of life for free from a buddy from church along with his old IBM PS/1 Consultant 486 which I put a 486 Overdrive in it.
Nice hat.
FedEx, when it absolutely, positively has to maybe arrive maybe not.
I'd love to have a Model M sigh
Btw, if you want to complete the look of your brand new industrial keyboard, you can order a black badge on eBay. :D (Some guys started to make repro badges, just because of the Unicomp selling these industrial cases.)
that doesnt surprise me usps and ups are a joke right now mine was most excellent it went to the seattle warehouse for ups left the seattle warehouse then was returned to the seattle warehouse all in the same day i called ups and requested that that manager and his driver be terminated for failing to do there job. upper management agreed and terminated them both
i always give new hardware the ''smell'' test...and after 23 years of building computers there is nothing better...
The mini keyboard that came with my HP Pavillion desktop is atrocious so I am using the old 104 key Dell keyboard from the Dell desktop I bought in the early 90s-I had to buy an adaptor though. I have thought of buying an IBM style keyboard but was stalled by the price. Frankly, the Dell is so much quieter so I don't think it is a buckling spring-but not sure. When I started working at a state agency in '91 we had Wang dumb terminals wired to a Wang mainframe and used Wang (IBM style) keyboards. Shortly thereafter, we started getting desktop PCs regularly every few years. The Wang keyboards wouldn't plug into the new computers- I tried- because even then I loved the IBM style and I don't think adaptors were a thing then. I squirrelled away mine and a couple more of the Wang keyboards in my file cabinet bottom drawer for future use. Boxes of hundreds of them got sent to state auction for bulk sale, probably scrapped, but who knows. I probably had five new PCs in 30 years with various sucky keyboards. Some computers that I liked I held onto even when offered a new PC. Sometimes (due to incessant Windows software upgrades) IT put their foot down and MADE me switch. If I had a pretty good keyboard that I liked, I'd put it on the new computer until the next acceptable one came along. When I retired in '21 and boxed up my stuff, I just left those Wang IBM keyboards (along with some sucky unused PC keyboards) in the filing cabinet even though I could have sneaked them out. But, by then there were security cameras everywhere, and anyway, I am honest. And, like I said, I like my old Dell keyboard.
So this was just a color change swap? I wouldn't bother. Now, if what you swapped in was a metal case... okay. I'd go for that. I have 10 PS/2 Model M's NOS, and I'll probably keep them all stock to match each other.
But why?I mean all the "juice" is in the switches and guts of that board why to transfer the innerts to an other shell that's like the least frequent issue (to have good innerts but a bad cracked shell ) lol