thank you for this. I didn't realize the buyer fee was mandatory. I interpreted the fees as if you are bidding online you only pay the $79 online bid fee. That extra $500 makes a big difference. basically a $1500 car becomes $2500. Might as well lowball a bunch of people on used cars and skip all of the copart hassle and unknowns.
IF you buy from a reseller these days its usually scammers. good luck. Copart you can go and see the cars without some guy trying to hide stuff from you.
Great looking car, bought a couple from down in SA Copart and bid on a few up in austin. What I do when I bid, is have my excel spreadsheet that automatically calculates the total cost with all the fees and breaks out the fees by line item but also gives me the % of the sale for total fees. My rule of thumb is the fees can't be more than 30% of the total sale, because at the end of the day, it's still a salvage vehicle.
Your video the first of all which contained clearly calculation how much does Copart car costs. Thanks a lot! I hope your UA-cam channel is keep growing! If you need some advice how to edit video, just let me know. Take care! :-)
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad I heard the part where you willingly paid seller over bid price *despite* the auto tranny. And missed the 'frame damage' - just bumper support?- You seem like a joker to me thumbs down
I bought a '95 DeVille from CoPart a few years ago with a $150 bid, after fees it was $350. It was still not a bad price, but paying more that the bid just in fees is ridiculous. Plus, you have to be careful when you are talking to the people at CoPart. I recently went to the one in KC KS to look at a car before bidding and the people there had no clue about anything, including Kansas law when it comes to buying a totaled car. I ended up calling the CoPart in Wichita KS while in the KC office to get the correct answers. This pissed off the people at that office, and I didn't even bother bidding on the car.
Highly valuable info for people looking into auction units though the thumbnail is misleading. Would you consider "How much does it cost after winning a bid?" It's 3 years later but 🤷🏾♂️
I don’t understand .. at 1:45 you said the transmission shifts perfectly and it was all good.. but then you found out it was an automatic at 4:40 and it was a huge problem? Is the automatic trans a good thing or bad thing.. because if it was bad that should’ve been a big sad face from the get go lol
You can visit any copart location and pay with a secured payment even if the car is at another location. Also watch out that copart is no longer giving you 5 days to pick up. Now you get 3 days to pay and only 3 days to pick up before accruing a storage fee.
They say the gate fee is for the forklift drivers to deliver your car. Although it seems that the forklifts are damaging a lot of the cars so doesn’t quite seem fair.
3:58 top left appears to be all split and pushed up, which may explain the rear trunk being out of alignment and the under carriage damage. You cant just but a copart car, wash it and flip it.
Why can’t you buy a copart car, wash it and flip it? That seems to be what the salvage auto dealerships do. These dealerships don’t even disclose the title status hoping someone uninformed comes in and buys it. I actually bought a prior salvage car this summer from a private party and googled the vin. Pictures came up, they did no body repairs on it. However they did spend about $2500 in mechanical repairs not related to the accident, which is why I bought it.
Unsecure payment/ aka visa might be able to get you out of paying for a car all together if you catch kopart in a lie. Not sure about the legalities but I have used visa to get my money back on a t.v. that didn't work that a (large store) didn't want to take back. Maybe that's why the fees are so much? Idk, something to look into.
One thing that may not be obvious to some ... Copart fee he showed you $595 is because he is individual buyer who paid with credit card. It is the most expensive but if the car turns out to be significantly different from description (a real possibility), then you can fight Copart with your credit card issuer. In case you pay with money order, you are done, zero option. There were cars that advertised 'run and drive'. When the winner picked it up, the clutch pedal (a part of manual shifting) was missing. Yeah, that's run and drive
You need to know about fees before bidding. Also and most importantly go inspect the car before the auction. You cant test drive but can start it and bring a flashlite to look at damage.
It always gets my goose when they put the Est. Retail of the vehicles. They are apparently using the estimated retail of a vehicle that is not wrecked or damaged. You'll see a burned out pile of junk on the site and it'll say the estimated retail is 45,000 dollars, or some sht like that. I could be wrong, but I don't see how anyone can make any money fixing these cars up and flipping them. I fixed up 2 wrecked vehicles years ago and nobody wanted to buy them because of the salvaged title. It's a good way to get vehicles that you plan to keep and drive if you can get them cheap enough.
Some states call them rebuilt titles and other states call them salvage titles, but when people see those titles, they either don't want to buy the vehicle, or they won't be willing to pay much. In Oklahoma where I'm at, we used to not even have rebuilt titles, but consumers wanted to know if the car they were buying had been wrecked, so the state started issuing rebuilt titles, and eventually went to salvage titles. I like these vehicles because I can do body work and get a cheap car to drive, but as far as trying to make money on turning these wrecked cars, I don't see any money in it.
Still a bargain for a great little car. What was the issue with it regarding the interior, think I missed it and didn’t see anything obvious. London, uk
Hello I have quick question, how do you get the title inspection for the car to have clean title when it says "CA CERT OF TITLE OR SALVAGE ACQ CLEAN TITLE " how do I convert it into clean title. what are the steps to do that
That 6 speed is in almost every Nissan, buy one and swap it. Clutch cylinder and lines isnt more than 250 or less new. The bezel around the shifter is the same except the stick shift has a metal ring the captures the boot. It will sell fast
Copart Auction’s are not meant to be a Scource for retail buyers. Their main buyers are salvage yards where the cars are torn down and sold for parts. Professional auto rebuilders and body shops, are another part of Coparts business. But they are professionals and know what they are doing. If you buy one of these cars and feel you got screwed it’s not Coparts fault. It’s your own. For the most part these are liquidation facilites for insurance companies to get rid of assets they own. If you think you can just get a great deal and fix one up, don’t be so naive. If you don’t know what your doing, better off to stay away.
Most ins company put reserves because. 1. High storage fees, towing fees paid to body shop. 2. Looks like repairs where almost completed and on reinpection they found that buckle on the frame so ins had to pay part of repairs to body shop. End results who made out like a bandit was towing, storage yard, and body shop. The owner probably paid 5 years on his 33k to end up with out a car Big biz wins little end user looses
About a month ago I bought a 2008 Mazda CX-7. I was the highest bidder at $750, but the reserve was $3,000. I had already won a 2008 Dodge Charger at the same location, so I didn't even bother to respond to the Mazda. On my way to pick up the Charger my phone pings, a message from Copart, I won the CX-7, time to pay up and tow that one back too. Each time I go it's 380 miles round trip so I had to make the same trip again the next day. Point of my story is, reserves are insanely high, but eventually they'll get tired of running cars thru the auction over and over, and they'll let it go.
Yep. I never up my price on counteroffers, and in every case where the winning bid was "fair", they will give it to you. As you said, they are trying to squeeze every last dollar out of you. Very good chance that you would have got the car for your bid price if you had stuck to it.
@@jasonbaber1, it's a bit complicated. I'm trying to take care of my father, and run a used car dealer at the same time. My father's a disabled vet from the Korean War and now that he's older, his condition has only gotten worse. Plus I have to do at least so much business with the dealership or Texas will yank my license. I have a nephew who is working at a job that he doesn't much care for, so we are thinking about him starting his own dealership and using UA-cam to document his experience. He likes the idea because I've already been down that road and he'd have me as a lifeline if anything goes south. So, to answer your question, yes, I have thought about it, but not with me being the host.
I noticed that the sales receipt says "CC Auth..." on the right side, did you pay with a credit card? Just a heads up, the fees are higher if you pay with a "non-secured" payment method, when would put you under schedule D in their member fee chart. Schedule D is the worst. If you are not a business ( car dealer or junk yard operator ), Schedule C is your cheapest option. Schedule C is "secured payment". Difference between the two, is that "non-secured" is things that can potentially be disputed, such as credit cards, and "secured" payments are payments that cannot be disputed, such as cash money, cashier's check, money order, etc...A few months ago I was at Copart waiting in line to pay for my purchase, and the guy in front of me was having trouble. He had a cashier's check for his purchase, but it turns out that his check was $13 short. So he tried to make up the difference with a $20 bill. "We don't have change sir" So he tried to pay the $13 with his credit or debit card, "That will work, but we're going to have to charge you (X) dollars instead of $13 because by paying with a credit card, the entire payment is now Schedule D instead of C". He ended up having to leave Copart, go about a block over to some mom 'n pop restaurant, get change, and wait in line again, the line took me over an hour of wait. Also that location doesn't accept cash over $400. I've been told that some locations don't accept cash at all. So if you're $1 short, you have to completely replace the cashier's check, or pay with a credit card which will fall under the higher fees of schedule D. I'm not sure about debit cards, if they're schedule C or D. UPDATE: I'm a dunce, I should have watched the rest of the video before commenting, you already answered most of my questions.
@James Pack, I edited my post, at the end I had explained that I failed to see the entire video and apologized for not watching the video to the end before commenting. But thank you.
bumper support 🤣 my dude thats the rail haha that’s exactly why it totaled that dent is probably a buckle on the quarter because the rear end is pushed forward, other then the structural damage it looks good
flopez425 I see what you’re saying. I was reluctant to say frame bc of the location it has absolutely no affect on how the car handles or drives. Probably right about the quarter panel.
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad It does look like a rail and its buckled but still I could get that pulled and fixed for a grand or so here.Not a bad buy nonetheless.
Yeah, those fees are ridiculous. At least it's usually reflected in the final sale price unless you get two people bidding who don't fully understand the backend fee structures.
Definitely find you a frame guy if you are gonna resell it. You want to pull the damaged area back to its original position and that will pull your dent out of the quarter panel
To add onto this- my $19,000 vette turned into a $24,000 vette, $450 forester ended up being $805, $8,900 trailer ended up being $11,400, my mazda 3 went from $2,700 to $3,600, and my jeep went from $3,500 to $4,600. Copart fees are not the best, but just bid with these extra fees in mind.
That final cost is very surprising to me. It should have come out to no more than around $2,900 out the gate. I live in California and I bid on cars through a friend of mine who happens to have a dealer license. The last car I won was a 2010 Nissan Maxima with 99k miles, the car was only vandalized and had scratches all over. Winning bid was $2,750 and after Copart's fees, it only came out to $3,178 which is less than that 350z even with a higher winning bid. I was not charged sales tax and don't ask me why because I have no clue.
I used to buy rebuilder 240z's, 260z and 280z's in the early and mid 80's in sacramento. That was long before salvage titles. I used brazing rods to weld on frame rails lol. They always passed safety inspection and i never lost money on them. Not many guys were doing it back then but the cars were still kind of pricey. Nowdays it seems youtube is full of guys getting these copart cars and rebuilding. I think you have to be very patient to find a buyer for a salvage title car because there are some nervous nancy's that are absolutely terrified of rebuilt cars. Watching the comments on sam cracks channel when he welded the r8 aluminum shock tower was hilarious. Things like "omg its a death trap" and "its going to fail at high speed and eveyone in the car will die!" Nowdays i pick up cars with mechanical problems like broken timing belt or bad head gasket on craigslist or facebook. Its alot less hassle
I been to a lot of auction's and I seen buyer fee like 10% and sale tax. Internet fee and gate fee is a joke. So you paid like 40% in fees Kansas you pay personal property tax on your birth month. So if you buy a car and pay taxes you have to turn around and do it again. Then you have to pay DMV fees. Like $2 DMV training fee.. not one vehicle $2 each. My truck tax $86 over half of that was just DMV fees.
I ignore every counter offer and let it sit. For those who get a counter offer, REFUSE EVERY SINGLE ONE. You aren't legally obligated to buy the car for anything more than your bid.
From Copart I got 2014 ram pro-master 2500 winning bid $8500 finishing paying $10,200 after all charges that he just explain fix the car my self and it’s working fine total cost $16,000 the same van is about over $20k plus finance charges Also got a motorcycle charges are half of the winning bid now I got a MB c300 and a think only making good deal if you keeping for your self also try to by local and probably you save money on delivery charges I’m from NJ and because I’m not a dealer all my bids has to be out of the state but I will bay again just need to make to cut costs must you can
I see this is 8 mths old.. but, I stumbled onto CoPart just ystrdy. I have to ask the same question as Layth... from the Insurance Company's ?????? Please elaborate....
Thanks for this video, I was in a wreck where my BMW was totaled and looking to find something that's not expensive and no more car notes, this was helpful
You should mentioned that a car can only be totaled once. Most Insurance companies won't pay if a car has a branded or salvage title. You can only get liability coverage.
Some of the fees are pretty insane. For example, the internet bid fee. Internet bidding is the only practical way to bid. The only way to avoid the internet bid fee is to go the location in person, use the kiosk there at least 30 mins before the bidding begin, and bid an insanely high amount that nobody will bid more than you. If your "in-person" bid is outbidded, in order to stay in the running for that vehicle you have to up the bid, and when you do, the internet bid fee is re-instated. Also there is the gate fee when they bring out your vehicle. But my first purchase, they gave me the keys and told me to just drive it out ( it was a run & drive, I did show up with insurance and a plate to make it legal to drive home, plus the truck was supposedly too heavy for the forklifts to fork out). I still paid for the gate fee even when I wasn't helped.
@@comedylife9358, nope, you will still be charged a gate fee ( I think it's like $59 ) regardless of their involvement in helping you load your purchase or not. I remember a guy complaining about the fee when he purchased a 53 ft trailer and the guy driving the fork lift could not help him bring it out, so the guy was just going to drive into the yard, hook it up himself, and be on his way. The customer was of the opinion that if he loads his own purchase himself, that the gate fee should be waived. Copart disagreed. If he wanted to load up his own trailer and go, he was going to have to pay the bill, including the gate fee.
7:53 I've been paying for insurance since 1987. I'm pretty sure the insurance companies aren't losing money, least not any money they sweated or bleed for.
does anyone here know what a "P" on the windshield of a copart car means? i cant find it anywhere. its a P circled on the bottom left corner of a car that has undercarriage damage only (listed).
wow i thought I/we had it bad in the uk. but your fees are more then here. £4100 purchase comes out at £5050 inc delivery (145miles). Don't be in too much of a hurry to counter bid when you dont meet reserve. My bid was £4300, hammer price was £4100 and they wanted £4600.. I left it for around 6 hours to think about what i wanted to do (and i was at work) and in the end they just accepted the hammer price.
@@Avalanche2 If you plan on using copart you really have to be there everyday doing research and also visiting the lots to check the cars out for yourself, in the end it's worth it if you have a youtube channel and want to restore these cars for views and sponsorship's but if you're buying for yourself or as a business, private sales or dealer auctions are the way to go.
@@Avalanche2 Your right. Mostly write offs. I have a preference towards good value cars that havent been wrecked. But all these guys are ranting and raving about co part. Im like yeah so what you bought X &Y for $Z.
Hey, What's up Driftdaddyz? I used to have a 2006 z bought a bunch of parts for it and 5 years later I sold it and stuck with the parts. I wonder if your interested in buying all that parts. (body kit, lowering springs, camber kit front and back, a brand new pair of a headlight, and rotor breaks)
Very curious about this, but a huge bummer as my state requires a license to bid and purchase these. Colorado... anyone know roughly how much a car bonds guy charges to help you purchase a vehicle?
Here in Saskatchewan we have sgi salvage which is Saskatchewan government insurance (the only only insurance available here) and I won the bid for a 2005 nissan altima ser at 1460, after taxes i paid just over 1500. I'd recommend checking out sgi salvage and making a trip up to grab a car from that auction. Comparing the cost in gas to get the car from sgi and the hidden fees at copart, i would make the drive anytime.
It is illegal to drive a salvage title car since it is not "road worthy". You are only allowed in some states to drive it to the inspection center/ DMV/ BMV. A rebuilt title (after passing post salvage inspection) is just like any other car title as fast as the temp tag.
I know a guy that tried to do this as a flip for copart. He got his butt sued off for selling a salvage title car to someone and did not inform them that was a totaled car. Read up on the laws in your state on these deals or you could lose everything like he did. These cars lose 20-50% off there value with rebuilt or salvage title. Dont get taken for a ride you might not ever recover from
I know of one major insurance carrier that is refusing to insure salvage titles vehicles even for just liability. When you can buy full coverage remember you are paying the same as the guy with a non salvage vehicle but you will very like just get the actual cash value of a salvage vehicle in total loss situation. Not saying it can’t be worth all that but rather to know the potential pitfalls.
I don’t know about anyone else’s experience but I love copart! I bought a 2016 mustang GT last year for 12k and after all the parts to fix it it came out to 17k! Over 10k savings (I do all the labor obviously). Last week I bought a 2016 focus RS For 13k and the parts to fix it probably won’t run me more than 3k. If your smart and play your cards right copart can get you some great cars at way under dealer prices 👍🏻.
Copart and insurance companies can scam the customer into giving up a perfectly fine car with minor damage. That’s how they make money. I was almost a victim. My 2008 5.7L v8 Toyota Tundra side swiped the guard rail during crazy winds. I claimed insurance on it and they said it was “totaled out” and that copart was on its way to pick up my truck from the body shop THAT MY INSURANCE PICKED! and they would pay me out for 8k. First of all, my truck has only 125k miles with a clean carfax being that my father was the original owner and passed it on to me after he finally upgraded to a 2021 Tundra, it was BEYOND mint condition as my father is old (70yrs) and barely drove it (hence 125k original miles) that thing was in perfect condition. I told them NO ONE is picking up my truck and that I want it back the way I took it into the bodyshop. My INS company argued that if I want it back, they would have to deem it “salvaged” and charge me a fee to put the parts back onto the truck… I hung up and made a trip to the bodyshop and to my surprise…. My truck was completely dismantled! Camper shell off, seats out…. Like WTF! I threaten to call the DA’s office for insurance scam and they said they would “negotiate” with the insurance company about the fees. Needless to say, they put my truck back together in 2 days and never made it salvaged. Not that it matters, but I am 5’2 108lbs small woman. I handled this situation all by myself when I probably should of taken a male friend with me, I feel like they thought I was an easy target being a little woman with a big ol truck and clean carfax/title and then try to bribe me with 8k for my old mans truck that means more to me than 8k+memories (should of offered me like 15k lol). Nice try ESURANCE and COPART.
They can't do that on a pure sale. There's no "pending approval", there's no reserve. The vehicle sells at whatever the highest bid is, unless they have people bidding on it as well to raise the price but they might get screwed if they end up with the highest bid and now have to pay all the fees.
Is there a nationwide auction place you'd recommend or a better company? I live in Colorado and use to live in Corpus Christi and really don't want to drive out fly back to Texas but want to buy some vehicles for fun projects.
That happened to me on my first time i won a 2010 charger for 1100 and the reserve was 2750 i declined and they send me a message for 2450 i declined again...i send them a message i won it for 1100 im not paying more than that my wasted time counts to wtf
Lousy thing about some states (like NY) Consumer can not bid on any cars at Copart or the IAA sites. Try and place a bid, and it will say "You need a broker" that will take even more of your $$....on top of the other fees..... Bit of a cash grab.
Question, in the case of reserve prices. It seems that copart has bidding fees on the auction. If you decide not to buy for the reserve price, are you still liable for the "bid fees?"
You made it so clear I am really trying to get into flipping cars seems Copart will take my money Do you know any other auctions that does not require a dealer license or anything ?? Thanks
Just curious how a reconstructed title can be obtained without fixing the evident frame damage. In Pa. we have to get a enhanced inspection and that car would never pass. Copart fees pretty much take the good deal aspect out of buying. To many people paying to much for the cars driving prices up.
Richard Bricker don’t worry it will be addressed in the next video. Texas also has an inspection process where they want to know what was fix and what parts are replaced.
In ohio here, we see a lot of cars from Pennsylvania auctions that dont pass regular inspections there, and sell cheap...bring them here to ohio, detail it and sell it with a check engine lights on or whatever and turn a profit...Pennsylvania seems really strict in annual inspections....
when you sign up do you have to type in your drivers license or send a copy I didn't understand the sign up I want to go and look around to see if I can find something
Nice car drift dad. So when I'm bidding, I have an excel spreadsheet open and as I enter a bid it automatically calculates all the fees and what percentage they are of the total cost, plus it gives me a total including fees plus titling costs, plus taxes. My rule is I never buy anything but pure sales and never buy when fees exceed 30% of the total cost. Its kept me honest when the bidding frenzy starts and I look at that bottom line number and % of fees in big bold red numbers. Really nice car and best of luck on your next purchase.
@@oldmoneyclub I can I actually finally uploaded a video showing what I use: ua-cam.com/video/MguDTlQxPJQ/v-deo.html . This is what I used to keep from getting that "sticker shock" when picking up my Copart vehicle.
I never up my bid once I win the bid but the unit did not meet the the reserve they do that all the time sometimes its the insurance company but also keep mind a lot of these cars are owned by Co part they always call & try to pull you for more money. yes if you Don't raise you bid they sometimes will rerun it or put a buy it now price on it. I have seen it done both ways but sometimes I have seen the unit bring less the next time the more they run it & the same people see it week after week people lose interest in a car. in your case they got you up a few hundred they won in their book. Next time hold your own if you don't get it there is always next week. Good luck by the way you may have bought a car with prior damage under that rear bumper!!
I just joined copart not a dealer just got the basic 1000 dollar free package is it worth getting premium package what’s the difference I literally joined an hour ago
Your experience couldnt be any different than mine haha. I just bought a 2001 suburban solely for the engine and trans. It was claimed running and driving which is exactly what I needed. When i had the car delivered it did not start at all. I was sure it was just a battery so I put a fresh one in and it cranked over a good 5 times before it stopped. Okay maybe the starter? I take the fan off and everything in front if it to see if I could turn it over by hand. Nope totally impossible to crank by hand. The starter is out and nothing is jammed in the flexplate. It is on the verge of being seized. To make matters worse I found a receipt in the car from just 1 month prior to me buying it. There was no way that this engine seized in one month. Im taking the engine out today and im going to take the heads off and see whats going on. Its a bummer because im 19 and on a tight budget for this swap and I ended up getting totally shafted by copart. Not sure if i'm going to buy from them again without driving and looking at the car.
Evans Automotive dang that’s rough. I just bought a suburban too. It was a clean title run and drive. Broke down after 2 miles. I made a video. Had a little better luck fixing it. It’s always a gamble
Thanks for the financial transparency. This a huge eye opener into buying cars from copart.
Thanks for showing your receipt. Was helpful seeing exactly what is being paid.
thank you for this. I didn't realize the buyer fee was mandatory. I interpreted the fees as if you are bidding online you only pay the $79 online bid fee. That extra $500 makes a big difference. basically a $1500 car becomes $2500. Might as well lowball a bunch of people on used cars and skip all of the copart hassle and unknowns.
Yep
IF you buy from a reseller these days its usually scammers. good luck. Copart you can go and see the cars without some guy trying to hide stuff from you.
Auction fees : $ 753 for dealer , $ 1300 for public.
This video is containing best info .
Good job
Great looking car, bought a couple from down in SA Copart and bid on a few up in austin. What I do when I bid, is have my excel spreadsheet that automatically calculates the total cost with all the fees and breaks out the fees by line item but also gives me the % of the sale for total fees. My rule of thumb is the fees can't be more than 30% of the total sale, because at the end of the day, it's still a salvage vehicle.
Can you Please share your spreadsheet. Thanks.
Your video the first of all which contained clearly calculation how much does Copart car costs. Thanks a lot! I hope your UA-cam channel is keep growing!
If you need some advice how to edit video, just let me know.
Take care! :-)
Olexandr Leshchenko thank you!
Yeah Copart fees are crazy high
Your cover photo says its ruined. What does that mean. Looks like you lied on your cover/thumbnail to get more views.
It works, got me to click 👍
Maybe you missed the part that it had an automatic transmission or where I showed the frame damage
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad I heard the part where you willingly paid seller over bid price *despite* the auto tranny.
And missed the 'frame damage' - just bumper support?- You seem like a joker to me thumbs down
DriftDaddyz did you not see the auction pictures or the description? You knew you were buying a car with damage. What did you expect?
DriftDaddyz I think you did really well at 3500 out the door. Looks great.
For anybody wondering. YOU CAN ALSO GO and look at A Car in person BEFORE you buy it at Corpart.
I bought a '95 DeVille from CoPart a few years ago with a $150 bid, after fees it was $350. It was still not a bad price, but paying more that the bid just in fees is ridiculous. Plus, you have to be careful when you are talking to the people at CoPart. I recently went to the one in KC KS to look at a car before bidding and the people there had no clue about anything, including Kansas law when it comes to buying a totaled car. I ended up calling the CoPart in Wichita KS while in the KC office to get the correct answers. This pissed off the people at that office, and I didn't even bother bidding on the car.
Highly valuable info for people looking into auction units though the thumbnail is misleading. Would you consider "How much does it cost after winning a bid?" It's 3 years later but 🤷🏾♂️
I don’t understand .. at 1:45 you said the transmission shifts perfectly and it was all good.. but then you found out it was an automatic at 4:40 and it was a huge problem? Is the automatic trans a good thing or bad thing.. because if it was bad that should’ve been a big sad face from the get go lol
Integra DIY the whole video is clickbait bs
@@wrightbaj you are just pissed off your channel dumped into the septic tank
Mitch Meckier I don’t have a channel bud
You can visit any copart location and pay with a secured payment even if the car is at another location. Also watch out that copart is no longer giving you 5 days to pick up. Now you get 3 days to pay and only 3 days to pick up before accruing a storage fee.
Akiva Feinstein that’s good advice! Thank you for sharing
Why is there a gate fee?
They say the gate fee is for the forklift drivers to deliver your car. Although it seems that the forklifts are damaging a lot of the cars so doesn’t quite seem fair.
What if I win a run a drive car can the gate fee be waived?
No my first one was run and drive
3:58 top left appears to be all split and pushed up, which may explain the rear trunk being out of alignment and the under carriage damage. You cant just but a copart car, wash it and flip it.
Steve Waller you are correct.
Why can’t you buy a copart car, wash it and flip it? That seems to be what the salvage auto dealerships do. These dealerships don’t even disclose the title status hoping someone uninformed comes in and buys it. I actually bought a prior salvage car this summer from a private party and googled the vin. Pictures came up, they did no body repairs on it. However they did spend about $2500 in mechanical repairs not related to the accident, which is why I bought it.
Unsecure payment/ aka visa might be able to get you out of paying for a car all together if you catch kopart in a lie. Not sure about the legalities but I have used visa to get my money back on a t.v. that didn't work that a (large store) didn't want to take back. Maybe that's why the fees are so much? Idk, something to look into.
Honestly this is real an eye opener. Gained so much from your experience. Thanks for sharing, it's so much helpful.
One thing that may not be obvious to some ... Copart fee he showed you $595 is because he is individual buyer who paid with credit card. It is the most expensive but if the car turns out to be significantly different from description (a real possibility), then you can fight Copart with your credit card issuer. In case you pay with money order, you are done, zero option.
There were cars that advertised 'run and drive'. When the winner picked it up, the clutch pedal (a part of manual shifting) was missing. Yeah, that's run and drive
You need to know about fees before bidding. Also and most importantly go inspect the car before the auction. You cant test drive but can start it and bring a flashlite to look at damage.
Great video and full transparency!! Do you have a video about How to register Copart car ? What is the process and steps?
It always gets my goose when they put the Est. Retail of the vehicles. They are apparently using the estimated retail of a vehicle that is not wrecked or damaged. You'll see a burned out pile of junk on the site and it'll say the estimated retail is 45,000 dollars, or some sht like that. I could be wrong, but I don't see how anyone can make any money fixing these cars up and flipping them. I fixed up 2 wrecked vehicles years ago and nobody wanted to buy them because of the salvaged title. It's a good way to get vehicles that you plan to keep and drive if you can get them cheap enough.
You can get a rebuilt title.
Some states call them rebuilt titles and other states call them salvage titles, but when people see those titles, they either don't want to buy the vehicle, or they won't be willing to pay much. In Oklahoma where I'm at, we used to not even have rebuilt titles, but consumers wanted to know if the car they were buying had been wrecked, so the state started issuing rebuilt titles, and eventually went to salvage titles. I like these vehicles because I can do body work and get a cheap car to drive, but as far as trying to make money on turning these wrecked cars, I don't see any money in it.
Still a bargain for a great little car. What was the issue with it regarding the interior, think I missed it and didn’t see anything obvious. London, uk
DS Rai it was an automatic transmission lol
Hello I have quick question, how do you get the title inspection for the car to have clean title when it says "CA CERT OF TITLE OR SALVAGE ACQ CLEAN TITLE " how do I convert it into clean title. what are the steps to do that
As far as I know it will never have a clean title again. Best case you can get a rebuilt title but that all depends on the state you are in.
That 6 speed is in almost every Nissan, buy one and swap it. Clutch cylinder and lines isnt more than 250 or less new. The bezel around the shifter is the same except the stick shift has a metal ring the captures the boot. It will sell fast
hatersaywhat that’s a good idea but I had 3 350z’s at the time. This one sold in about 4 hrs.
Copart Auction’s are not meant to be a Scource for retail buyers. Their main buyers are salvage yards where the cars are torn down and sold for parts. Professional auto rebuilders and body shops, are another part of Coparts business. But they are professionals and know what they are doing. If you buy one of these cars and feel you got screwed it’s not Coparts fault. It’s your own. For the most part these are liquidation facilites for insurance companies to get rid of assets they own. If you think you can just get a great deal and fix one up, don’t be so naive. If you don’t know what your doing, better off to stay away.
No forklift valet fee?
As someone looking up buy my first project car, this video was very informative. Thank you!
Can a car really be moved by a forklift truck and not cause any damage to the car?
i never play the counter bidding game. i just ignore the offers, more often than not, after a day passes they will just accept your original bid.
Most ins company put reserves because.
1. High storage fees, towing fees paid to body shop.
2. Looks like repairs where almost completed and on reinpection they found that buckle on the frame so ins had to pay part of repairs to body shop.
End results who made out like a bandit was towing, storage yard, and body shop.
The owner probably paid 5 years on his 33k to end up with out a car
Big biz wins little end user looses
About a month ago I bought a 2008 Mazda CX-7. I was the highest bidder at $750, but the reserve was $3,000. I had already won a 2008 Dodge Charger at the same location, so I didn't even bother to respond to the Mazda. On my way to pick up the Charger my phone pings, a message from Copart, I won the CX-7, time to pay up and tow that one back too. Each time I go it's 380 miles round trip so I had to make the same trip again the next day. Point of my story is, reserves are insanely high, but eventually they'll get tired of running cars thru the auction over and over, and they'll let it go.
John Davis wow good to know!
Yep. I never up my price on counteroffers, and in every case where the winning bid was "fair", they will give it to you. As you said, they are trying to squeeze every last dollar out of you. Very good chance that you would have got the car for your bid price if you had stuck to it.
Shannon Flood I agree! Lesson learned!
Hey John, I notice your replies are informative and helpful. Ever thought of making your own videos? You have a lot of experience to share.
@@jasonbaber1, it's a bit complicated. I'm trying to take care of my father, and run a used car dealer at the same time. My father's a disabled vet from the Korean War and now that he's older, his condition has only gotten worse. Plus I have to do at least so much business with the dealership or Texas will yank my license. I have a nephew who is working at a job that he doesn't much care for, so we are thinking about him starting his own dealership and using UA-cam to document his experience. He likes the idea because I've already been down that road and he'd have me as a lifeline if anything goes south. So, to answer your question, yes, I have thought about it, but not with me being the host.
I noticed that the sales receipt says "CC Auth..." on the right side, did you pay with a credit card? Just a heads up, the fees are higher if you pay with a "non-secured" payment method, when would put you under schedule D in their member fee chart. Schedule D is the worst. If you are not a business ( car dealer or junk yard operator ), Schedule C is your cheapest option. Schedule C is "secured payment". Difference between the two, is that "non-secured" is things that can potentially be disputed, such as credit cards, and "secured" payments are payments that cannot be disputed, such as cash money, cashier's check, money order, etc...A few months ago I was at Copart waiting in line to pay for my purchase, and the guy in front of me was having trouble. He had a cashier's check for his purchase, but it turns out that his check was $13 short. So he tried to make up the difference with a $20 bill. "We don't have change sir" So he tried to pay the $13 with his credit or debit card, "That will work, but we're going to have to charge you (X) dollars instead of $13 because by paying with a credit card, the entire payment is now Schedule D instead of C". He ended up having to leave Copart, go about a block over to some mom 'n pop restaurant, get change, and wait in line again, the line took me over an hour of wait. Also that location doesn't accept cash over $400. I've been told that some locations don't accept cash at all. So if you're $1 short, you have to completely replace the cashier's check, or pay with a credit card which will fall under the higher fees of schedule D. I'm not sure about debit cards, if they're schedule C or D.
UPDATE: I'm a dunce, I should have watched the rest of the video before commenting, you already answered most of my questions.
@James Pack, I edited my post, at the end I had explained that I failed to see the entire video and apologized for not watching the video to the end before commenting. But thank you.
Sounds like CoPart is a crooked bunch of pricks. We dont make change...what idiots.
Check wheel alignment carefully! You may have a warped bucket there.
That doesn’t even include if you have to have the car shipped or if you have to pay a broker
bumper support 🤣 my dude thats the rail haha that’s exactly why it totaled that dent is probably a buckle on the quarter because the rear end is pushed forward, other then the structural damage it looks good
flopez425 I see what you’re saying. I was reluctant to say frame bc of the location it has absolutely no affect on how the car handles or drives. Probably right about the quarter panel.
ya im sure it drives fine, I have a Z myself fun car to drive 👌
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad It does look like a rail and its buckled but still I could get that pulled and fixed for a grand or so here.Not a bad buy nonetheless.
You did great for your first buy,even though Copart was WAY overcharging with fees and taxes.
they are criminals
You need to know about fees going into this. Then bid.
Yeah, those fees are ridiculous. At least it's usually reflected in the final sale price unless you get two people bidding who don't fully understand the backend fee structures.
Teetering on becoming a member in Maryland. Thanks for the heads-up.
Definitely find you a frame guy if you are gonna resell it. You want to pull the damaged area back to its original position and that will pull your dent out of the quarter panel
To add onto this- my $19,000 vette turned into a $24,000 vette, $450 forester ended up being $805, $8,900 trailer ended up being $11,400, my mazda 3 went from $2,700 to $3,600, and my jeep went from $3,500 to $4,600. Copart fees are not the best, but just bid with these extra fees in mind.
That final cost is very surprising to me. It should have come out to no more than around $2,900 out the gate. I live in California and I bid on cars through a friend of mine who happens to have a dealer license. The last car I won was a 2010 Nissan Maxima with 99k miles, the car was only vandalized and had scratches all over. Winning bid was $2,750 and after Copart's fees, it only came out to $3,178 which is less than that 350z even with a higher winning bid. I was not charged sales tax and don't ask me why because I have no clue.
do you have to pay off any liens on the titles? (POSSESSORY LIEN SALE) Thanks
Western Trails I never bought a car with a lien on it.
I used to buy rebuilder 240z's, 260z and 280z's in the early and mid 80's in sacramento. That was long before salvage titles. I used brazing rods to weld on frame rails lol. They always passed safety inspection and i never lost money on them. Not many guys were doing it back then but the cars were still kind of pricey. Nowdays it seems youtube is full of guys getting these copart cars and rebuilding. I think you have to be very patient to find a buyer for a salvage title car because there are some nervous nancy's that are absolutely terrified of rebuilt cars. Watching the comments on sam cracks channel when he welded the r8 aluminum shock tower was hilarious. Things like "omg its a death trap" and "its going to fail at high speed and eveyone in the car will die!" Nowdays i pick up cars with mechanical problems like broken timing belt or bad head gasket on craigslist or facebook. Its alot less hassle
Back in '84 I saw a guy in a 280z and the license plate said 'my350z' and it was ticket red and sound awesome.
@@mjb12141963 Thats probably because it had a 350 chevy in it
@@gregh7457 Right, that's what it was.
I been to a lot of auction's and I seen buyer fee like 10% and sale tax. Internet fee and gate fee is a joke. So you paid like 40% in fees Kansas you pay personal property tax on your birth month. So if you buy a car and pay taxes you have to turn around and do it again. Then you have to pay DMV fees. Like $2 DMV training fee.. not one vehicle $2 each. My truck tax $86 over half of that was just DMV fees.
I ignore every counter offer and let it sit. For those who get a counter offer, REFUSE EVERY SINGLE ONE. You aren't legally obligated to buy the car for anything more than your bid.
From Copart I got 2014 ram pro-master 2500 winning bid $8500 finishing paying $10,200 after all charges that he just explain fix the car my self and it’s working fine total cost $16,000 the same van is about over $20k plus finance charges
Also got a motorcycle charges are half of the winning bid now I got a MB c300 and a think only making good deal if you keeping for your self also try to by local and probably you save money on delivery charges I’m from NJ and because I’m not a dealer all my bids has to be out of the state but I will bay again just need to make to cut costs must you can
Charles rocha good to know
I learned to buy from private dealer or direct from the Insurance company. The y do offer cars for sale directly.
How would you buy cars from the insurance company?
I see this is 8 mths old.. but, I stumbled onto CoPart just ystrdy.
I have to ask the same question as Layth... from the Insurance Company's ??????
Please elaborate....
Hi. I tried to go on Copart to bid on a motorcycle, but they wanted a $400 pre pay before I could register. Does this sound right? Thanks
Joe Mengore when I signed up, it was a $200 membership fee. I think it’s an extra $400 for the highest membership
Thanks for this video, I was in a wreck where my BMW was totaled and looking to find something that's not expensive and no more car notes, this was helpful
What did you have to do to make this salvage title into a rebuilt? Did you need to fix anything?
I think it depends on your state. In Texas you have to document all repairs and get it inspected by an approved inspector for it to be road worthy.
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad Okay thanks for the reply!
Hi! Is the $400 reimbursable deposit actually reimbursable?
You paid 24 percent of the final sale price in the additional buyer fee alone...
their website says 7 or 12 percent.
Bait and switch
You should mentioned that a car can only be totaled once. Most Insurance companies won't pay if a car has a branded or salvage title. You can only get liability coverage.
Extra fees are ridiculous
Its a Rome Thing Everyday yep
Some of the fees are pretty insane. For example, the internet bid fee. Internet bidding is the only practical way to bid. The only way to avoid the internet bid fee is to go the location in person, use the kiosk there at least 30 mins before the bidding begin, and bid an insanely high amount that nobody will bid more than you. If your "in-person" bid is outbidded, in order to stay in the running for that vehicle you have to up the bid, and when you do, the internet bid fee is re-instated. Also there is the gate fee when they bring out your vehicle. But my first purchase, they gave me the keys and told me to just drive it out ( it was a run & drive, I did show up with insurance and a plate to make it legal to drive home, plus the truck was supposedly too heavy for the forklifts to fork out). I still paid for the gate fee even when I wasn't helped.
If u got a deal plate the fees be lower they really rob u if u don’t have it ... if the car for public they charge u way to much
So if I bid on a run a drive car wheel the gate fee be dropped?
@@comedylife9358, nope, you will still be charged a gate fee ( I think it's like $59 ) regardless of their involvement in helping you load your purchase or not. I remember a guy complaining about the fee when he purchased a 53 ft trailer and the guy driving the fork lift could not help him bring it out, so the guy was just going to drive into the yard, hook it up himself, and be on his way. The customer was of the opinion that if he loads his own purchase himself, that the gate fee should be waived. Copart disagreed. If he wanted to load up his own trailer and go, he was going to have to pay the bill, including the gate fee.
7:53 I've been paying for insurance since 1987. I'm pretty sure the insurance companies aren't losing money, least not any money they sweated or bleed for.
does anyone here know what a "P" on the windshield of a copart car means? i cant find it anywhere. its a P circled on the bottom left corner of a car that has undercarriage damage only (listed).
That buyer fee is crazy! Here in the UK if that was in £ the buyers free would've been £289.
wow i thought I/we had it bad in the uk. but your fees are more then here. £4100 purchase comes out at £5050 inc delivery (145miles). Don't be in too much of a hurry to counter bid when you dont meet reserve. My bid was £4300, hammer price was £4100 and they wanted £4600.. I left it for around 6 hours to think about what i wanted to do (and i was at work) and in the end they just accepted the hammer price.
I signed up for Copart... found out about all them fees, and found and Bought a Camaro on Cragslist saved ALL them FEES!!
Camaro Mods Channel been thinking about doing that myself
I too looked into Copart, seems like a giant scam, especially since they are mostly salvage cars, which are only worth 50-60% of retail to begin with.
@@Avalanche2
If you plan on using copart you really have to be there everyday doing research and also visiting the lots to check the cars out for yourself, in the end it's worth it if you have a youtube channel and want to restore these cars for views and sponsorship's but if you're buying for yourself or as a business, private sales or dealer auctions are the way to go.
They are definitely not worth half of retail...
@@Avalanche2 Your right. Mostly write offs. I have a preference towards good value cars that havent been wrecked. But all these guys are ranting and raving about co part. Im like yeah so what you bought X &Y for $Z.
Hey, What's up Driftdaddyz? I used to have a 2006 z bought a bunch of parts for it and 5 years later I sold it and stuck with the parts. I wonder if your interested in buying all that parts. (body kit, lowering springs, camber kit front and back, a brand new pair of a headlight, and rotor breaks)
Rainier Francisco what’s ur prices
For every thing 4500 and I'll throw in the stock tires that came with that car. A couple of those rims has scratches .@@Youknowmysteez93
@@rainierfrancisco1873 So he wouldnt pay 5000 for that car, and u think hes gonna pay 4500 for a body kit and some other parts ?
LOL
Wow thanks for telling us that no one I mean no one has came forward and told there secret and that is a shame thanks again man!!
Very curious about this, but a huge bummer as my state requires a license to bid and purchase these. Colorado... anyone know roughly how much a car bonds guy charges to help you purchase a vehicle?
That’s the most polite gps I have ever heard. Mine is very short and demanding.
Kudos to you buddy. I found what I was looking for . You rock bro
Here in Saskatchewan we have sgi salvage which is Saskatchewan government insurance (the only only insurance available here) and I won the bid for a 2005 nissan altima ser at 1460, after taxes i paid just over 1500. I'd recommend checking out sgi salvage and making a trip up to grab a car from that auction. Comparing the cost in gas to get the car from sgi and the hidden fees at copart, i would make the drive anytime.
Hi, I've been wanting to get cars on coparts, how did you joined without being a dealer?
Invoice is similar to booking a hotel in Vegas. $129 room plus another $129 in resort fees, excise taxes, user fees, etc.
Blows my mind when people buy a car at Copart and expect it to drive and be fine
Shawn Dufresne i highly doubt people do that.
It is illegal to drive a salvage title car since it is not "road worthy". You are only allowed in some states to drive it to the inspection center/ DMV/ BMV. A rebuilt title (after passing post salvage inspection) is just like any other car title as fast as the temp tag.
I see your in texas as well, the whole needing a broker is what makes me nervous, did you use autobidmaster or anything like that?
Not for this car but I do have a video on using a broker.
I know a guy that tried to do this as a flip for copart. He got his butt sued off for selling a salvage title car to someone and did not inform them that was a totaled car. Read up on the laws in your state on these deals or you could lose everything like he did. These cars lose 20-50% off there value with rebuilt or salvage title. Dont get taken for a ride you might not ever recover from
I know of one major insurance carrier that is refusing to insure salvage titles vehicles even for just liability. When you can buy full coverage remember you are paying the same as the guy with a non salvage vehicle but you will very like just get the actual cash value of a salvage vehicle in total loss situation. Not saying it can’t be worth all that but rather to know the potential pitfalls.
I don’t know about anyone else’s experience but I love copart! I bought a 2016 mustang GT last year for 12k and after all the parts to fix it it came out to 17k! Over 10k savings (I do all the labor obviously). Last week I bought a 2016 focus RS For 13k and the parts to fix it probably won’t run me more than 3k. If your smart and play your cards right copart can get you some great cars at way under dealer prices 👍🏻.
Yes I'm doing the same thing right now. do you have videos of your journey?
Copart and insurance companies can scam the customer into giving up a perfectly fine car with minor damage. That’s how they make money. I was almost a victim. My 2008 5.7L v8 Toyota Tundra side swiped the guard rail during crazy winds. I claimed insurance on it and they said it was “totaled out” and that copart was on its way to pick up my truck from the body shop THAT MY INSURANCE PICKED! and they would pay me out for 8k. First of all, my truck has only 125k miles with a clean carfax being that my father was the original owner and passed it on to me after he finally upgraded to a 2021 Tundra, it was BEYOND mint condition as my father is old (70yrs) and barely drove it (hence 125k original miles) that thing was in perfect condition. I told them NO ONE is picking up my truck and that I want it back the way I took it into the bodyshop. My INS company argued that if I want it back, they would have to deem it “salvaged” and charge me a fee to put the parts back onto the truck… I hung up and made a trip to the bodyshop and to my surprise…. My truck was completely dismantled! Camper shell off, seats out…. Like WTF! I threaten to call the DA’s office for insurance scam and they said they would “negotiate” with the insurance company about the fees. Needless to say, they put my truck back together in 2 days and never made it salvaged. Not that it matters, but I am 5’2 108lbs small woman. I handled this situation all by myself when I probably should of taken a male friend with me, I feel like they thought I was an easy target being a little woman with a big ol truck and clean carfax/title and then try to bribe me with 8k for my old mans truck that means more to me than 8k+memories (should of offered me like 15k lol). Nice try ESURANCE and COPART.
@@SKISAY that's crazy. makes me wonder how many people have been ripped off.
so what is the update on this flip? is there another video?
ivru145 yep ua-cam.com/video/BDTAemuzP4o/v-deo.html
Watch this one last ua-cam.com/video/o9etPJPCL9g/v-deo.html
Should they be charging sales tax on the services? Looks like you paid tax on the whole transaction.
Everything you went through,I have had them do the same exact thing to me on a “pure sale” at the end of the day it all depends on the seller...
They can't do that on a pure sale. There's no "pending approval", there's no reserve. The vehicle sells at whatever the highest bid is, unless they have people bidding on it as well to raise the price but they might get screwed if they end up with the highest bid and now have to pay all the fees.
@@DL101ca I hate to break it to you but people do things they “can’t” do all the time…like I said,I’m speaking first hand..
Is there a nationwide auction place you'd recommend or a better company? I live in Colorado and use to live in Corpus Christi and really don't want to drive out fly back to Texas but want to buy some vehicles for fun projects.
Chronic Crypto Copart is worldwide. Many locations in the US
That happened to me on my first time i won a 2010 charger for 1100 and the reserve was 2750 i declined and they send me a message for 2450 i declined again...i send them a message i won it for 1100 im not paying more than that my wasted time counts to wtf
so if i get a car that is 500$ does that mean that the FEE:S will be less
LIVE IT UP yes. Copart has a list on their site so you can see how much your fees will be based on the final bid price.
Ok far from a bumper mount the frame rail is twisted and the dent is from the unibody being shrunk and this car needs the rail needs replacement
yep you are correct
Lousy thing about some states (like NY) Consumer can not bid on any cars at Copart or the IAA sites. Try and place a bid, and it will say "You need a broker" that will take even more of your $$....on top of the other fees..... Bit of a cash grab.
Crazy I saw a Benz for 1800 final buy and was worried and it sold for 1800 2014 S class light Hit
If you buying to resell, doesnt the tax come off when you present your tax exempt form?
If you go in person is there a broker you can hire on the spot?
Not that I am aware of
Do you recommend using a broker or just biting the bullet and purchasing the dealer license? I’ve done my research into obtaining the license.
TFFT CHOLO depends on how many cars you plan on buying. I didn’t do either. I just bought the Copart membership and that’s it.
Drift Dad Awesome! I didn’t know they had a membership.
Gotta remember salvage certificate converted into Salvage title will still cost more than buying a clean titled Vehicle.
MIke McC not necessarily true
Before doing what buying next car. check if you need dealer license to sell in your state.
Went u buy a car from co part, is it still a savage title (pink) or a blue title.....?
Question, in the case of reserve prices. It seems that copart has bidding fees on the auction. If you decide not to buy for the reserve price, are you still liable for the "bid fees?"
No
So if you only want to spend 2 Grand that means you got to bet on something for a thousand
Is better if yuo go to the shop or buy by interneht bro?
arer you able to test drive the car if you go inspect it
Dakota Lewis not really. You can move it back and forth sometimes but you can’t drive it around the lot.
You made it so clear I am really trying to get into flipping cars seems Copart will take my money
Do you know any other auctions that does not require a dealer license or anything ??
Thanks
whats the buyer fee based on? percentage wise? Is it based on their retail base line thats listed for each vehicle ?
Giter Dun it’s based on the final sale price. There is a chart on copart’s website that shows the fees
Thankyou for sharing
What did you sell the car for and what did you profit off of it?
Would you buy from Copart again? Why/why not
ddemier ddemier watch my other videos for those answers
Just curious how a reconstructed title can be obtained without fixing the evident frame damage. In Pa. we have to get a enhanced inspection and that car would never pass. Copart fees pretty much take the good deal aspect out of buying. To many people paying to much for the cars driving prices up.
Richard Bricker don’t worry it will be addressed in the next video. Texas also has an inspection process where they want to know what was fix and what parts are replaced.
In ohio here, we see a lot of cars from Pennsylvania auctions that dont pass regular inspections there, and sell cheap...bring them here to ohio, detail it and sell it with a check engine lights on or whatever and turn a profit...Pennsylvania seems really strict in annual inspections....
I live in Philadelphia, anytime i got my cars fix i just send 4 pictures of fixed salvage vehicle and the "enhanced inspection" is done.
when you sign up do you have to type in your drivers license or send a copy I didn't understand the sign up I want to go and look around to see if I can find something
you have to take a picture of your state issued id
Nice car drift dad. So when I'm bidding, I have an excel spreadsheet open and as I enter a bid it automatically calculates all the fees and what percentage they are of the total cost, plus it gives me a total including fees plus titling costs, plus taxes. My rule is I never buy anything but pure sales and never buy when fees exceed 30% of the total cost. Its kept me honest when the bidding frenzy starts and I look at that bottom line number and % of fees in big bold red numbers. Really nice car and best of luck on your next purchase.
can you explain how to make the spreadsheet? thanks!
@@oldmoneyclub I can I actually finally uploaded a video showing what I use: ua-cam.com/video/MguDTlQxPJQ/v-deo.html . This is what I used to keep from getting that "sticker shock" when picking up my Copart vehicle.
In Texas do you need an auction licence to buy copart cars in your state?
Vinsanity nope just a Copart membership
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad SWEET I'm taking a look as we speak
I never up my bid once I win the bid but the unit did not meet the the reserve they do that all the time sometimes its the insurance company but also keep mind a lot of these cars are owned by Co part they always call & try to pull you for more money. yes if you Don't raise you bid they sometimes will rerun it or put a buy it now price on it. I have seen it done both ways but sometimes I have seen the unit bring less the next time the more they run it & the same people see it week after week people lose interest in a car. in your case they got you up a few hundred they won in their book. Next time hold your own if you don't get it there is always next week. Good luck by the way you may have bought a car with prior damage under that rear bumper!!
I just joined copart not a dealer just got the basic 1000 dollar free package is it worth getting premium package what’s the difference I literally joined an hour ago
And if you would of used a broker, add even more fees. Need it shipped? Even more fees...yeah. that price for the car would of gone over $4k
Your experience couldnt be any different than mine haha. I just bought a 2001 suburban solely for the engine and trans. It was claimed running and driving which is exactly what I needed. When i had the car delivered it did not start at all. I was sure it was just a battery so I put a fresh one in and it cranked over a good 5 times before it stopped. Okay maybe the starter? I take the fan off and everything in front if it to see if I could turn it over by hand. Nope totally impossible to crank by hand. The starter is out and nothing is jammed in the flexplate. It is on the verge of being seized. To make matters worse I found a receipt in the car from just 1 month prior to me buying it. There was no way that this engine seized in one month. Im taking the engine out today and im going to take the heads off and see whats going on. Its a bummer because im 19 and on a tight budget for this swap and I ended up getting totally shafted by copart. Not sure if i'm going to buy from them again without driving and looking at the car.
Evans Automotive dang that’s rough. I just bought a suburban too. It was a clean title run and drive. Broke down after 2 miles. I made a video. Had a little better luck fixing it. It’s always a gamble
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad Im currently taking the engine out haha. I hope its not too bad!