I added a "line" on the pressure foot knob with a hack saw so it's easier to keep track of how much I adjust the knob for a different thickness of leather in a project.
Think about stuff like this. The Bell is rotating away from you it's putting Force into the leather and pushing it away from you. The feed roller is pushing the material to your right. The very last half inch of the cut his uncontrolled by the roller. So the operator must keep the material from being pulled into the system by the bell. The first thing to do here is to understand the mechanics and forces at play behind the error. Then come up with a strategy to compensate for it. This happens to everyone if they're not prepared for it. So, what I suggest is making a couple practice cuts and controlling the material so that doesn't get pulled into the blade that last half inch. It takes a bit of practice but now that you understand the mechanics of it you should be able to overcome it with a bit of practice.
I have found that the leather gets pulled toward the back of the machine more when I am using inexpensive Chinese presser feet. I get more reliable performance when I use a flat file to grind down the heel and toe of the presser foot. It also seems that the better presser feet have less of a bevel.
I've done my research and bought based on that. I would really be interested to hear from you what differences there are. The only item that could possibly be upgraded on these machines is the bell knife and maybe a belt. Not much other than 60 pounds of cast iron with gears and pulleys.
@@diastoleny okay, think about it for a moment. The body of the machine is basically a hunk of cast iron right? But it's got a bunch of moving parts in it. Those moving parts are subject to exchange. The vendor and in this case we're talking about the leather machine company specifies very specific parts for their machines. They may or may not be different than some of the other vendors selling the same type of equipment. I know that the leather machine company machine as a little wiper that helps guide the leather scrap off the feed roller and down into the trash chute. Another variable part could be like you mentioned, the quality of the bell knife itself. You can bet that there are lots of varieties of the same type of knife. How about the springs associated with the presser foot lift and the feed roller tension? Those parts could be exchanged for better parts as well. So while your statement is mostly correct. There are some variables that the different vendors have to offer. Thank you for your comment.
Im just sharing my experience in order to help other people. I did a lot of research and found not many take the time to share their experiences with unlabeled skivers.Thats the right thing to do. I'm loving mine. All good. @albaneforleather
I added a "line" on the pressure foot knob with a hack saw so it's easier to keep track of how much I adjust the knob for a different thickness of leather in a project.
I need to get me one of these bell skivers. Thanks Al.
The leather machine company makes a nice machine and they have them available
Great video, Al.
Thank you
Good information to know when I get my own bell skiver.
Thank for great tips. It is hard to skive when I have soft leather. It tends to push away at the end
Think about stuff like this. The Bell is rotating away from you it's putting Force into the leather and pushing it away from you. The feed roller is pushing the material to your right. The very last half inch of the cut his uncontrolled by the roller. So the operator must keep the material from being pulled into the system by the bell. The first thing to do here is to understand the mechanics and forces at play behind the error. Then come up with a strategy to compensate for it. This happens to everyone if they're not prepared for it. So, what I suggest is making a couple practice cuts and controlling the material so that doesn't get pulled into the blade that last half inch. It takes a bit of practice but now that you understand the mechanics of it you should be able to overcome it with a bit of practice.
@@albaneforleather yes, it’s true. Practice make perfect. Thanks for the reply ⭐️
So is this why sometimes it ends up ripping the piece towards the end of the leather ? Like it tears the leather towarfs the end
So you would need to guide it all the way to the end so that it doesn't rip towards the end? 🤔
@@rsilva281 correct
I have found that the leather gets pulled toward the back of the machine more when I am using inexpensive Chinese presser feet. I get more reliable performance when I use a flat file to grind down the heel and toe of the presser foot. It also seems that the better presser feet have less of a bevel.
Thank you so much for this.
Just got a nameless bell skiver, sm-801. Exact same as these resellers that just stick their sticker on it. Brilliant.
It doesn't work quiet like that but close.
I've done my research and bought based on that. I would really be interested to hear from you what differences there are. The only item that could possibly be upgraded on these machines is the bell knife and maybe a belt. Not much other than 60 pounds of cast iron with gears and pulleys.
@@diastoleny okay, think about it for a moment. The body of the machine is basically a hunk of cast iron right? But it's got a bunch of moving parts in it. Those moving parts are subject to exchange. The vendor and in this case we're talking about the leather machine company specifies very specific parts for their machines. They may or may not be different than some of the other vendors selling the same type of equipment. I know that the leather machine company machine as a little wiper that helps guide the leather scrap off the feed roller and down into the trash chute.
Another variable part could be like you mentioned, the quality of the bell knife itself. You can bet that there are lots of varieties of the same type of knife.
How about the springs associated with the presser foot lift and the feed roller tension? Those parts could be exchanged for better parts as well. So while your statement is mostly correct. There are some variables that the different vendors have to offer. Thank you for your comment.
Im just sharing my experience in order to help other people. I did a lot of research and found not many take the time to share their experiences with unlabeled skivers.Thats the right thing to do. I'm loving mine. All good. @albaneforleather
this is some helpful safety tips
i got an issue with my skivers great but the stone runs backwards towards the left any ideas whats going on?? ty deb
That would indicate that your motor is running backwards
Interesting Al, Q from the what’s the purpose of that machine?
It's a bell skiving machine it basically shaves the leather down on the edges
@@albaneforleather ohh that’s cool, thanks for answer