Great video! It would have been very interesting to show four pictures for aperture and iso too and to compare them all with explainations of the differences.
I write out the series from lowest light to highest f22 to F1.4, 100 to 6400, 1000 to B when I look at simple math of exposure. I like the diagram found several places that includes DOF, movement, and quality.
Hey Kelebrimbor! HDR is one way to do it, but this video is more aimed at showing our students how to capture the light in a single shot. This is totally possible, though not with the kind of contrast values you would see in an HDR image. HDR is pretty cool, but we are starting with the basics in this course. HDR also takes a little more time and technical knowledge, and is more of an artistic technique than a skill all photographers need to know. Happy shooting!
Thank you for this explanation. I have to start memorizing this. I get the aperture but I think it's the hardest one? It's like every other one is double.
Steven Torrey get an ND filter, you can bump up the shutter without changing the aperture to keep the depth of field while still properly exposing your photo
I’m new to photography, so please forgive me if this is a dumb question. With the example photographs in the video, are you basically saying that you need to compensate for the overexposure of the top half in photo 1 by underexposing the bottom half by a just a touch and getting the ideal result in photo 3?
by solving the equation (which tremendously easy.[1*x=1,4 which is x=1.4]) I found that by multiplying the f stop number by 1.4 you get half as much light. Otherwise, you can double or half to get to two stops of light (or more commonly known as stops of exposure)
The example of exposure where did you focus to take the photo and what kind of focus matrix centered one point ( or something like that :) ) Im new to photography but I really love the way you made this easy to understand please keep on Im going to subscribe now :) greetings from El Salvador 🇸🇻
Awesome. How do I match the exposure in the same picture say picture 1 and 3? I like the way the darker parts are lit in the 1st pic and the brighter parts of the 3rd? How do it it in case using the f-stop. Obviously in a set we can add or take away light to our choice. How do I do that in an environment with natural light? What kind of an stop difference do I use when lighting for foreground and background. Like basic idea. Mostly I do it by instinct. Thank you. Good video.
Ordinary People try to get filters like a half ND that allow you to reduce light from a certain area like the overly exposed one in the first pic so you can keep the exposure of the lower region
I am so confused about the f stops. I just don't get it. I get how the shutter and aperture work but how do u combine the f stop numbers? is there a start point? when u double a number how do u know where to cut down? Is there a rule that says how to combine each number, when and how? how did u decide that 2.8 aperture with 1/60 shutter and 200 ISO make the stool's legs even? I've watched so many videos and I still don't get it :(
To get a good starting point to figure out how to get a good balanced photograph. Use something called the sunny 16 rule. This rule gives you a good rough idea of a decent exposure. :)
Yes it can be confusing specially when the smallest hole for the aperture is the biggest f-stop number on your lens. I put it differently to help me better understand it. Instead of f-stop as a measurement of the aperture or hole, I turned it to focus stop. Aperture or f-stop the smaller the number, the smaller the area of focus from front to back of subject or object in focus relative to the distance of the camera. So it can be thought of as percentage in sharp focus. The effect is if you want more to be in focus, increase the f-stop or focus stop (remember that is my definition for f-stop so pros will probably not approve of the definition). The downside of having more in focus is that less light will reach your sensor so the photo will be generally dim. So you can compensate by keeping your shutter open longer for more light to hit the sensor thus brighter photo. Slower shutter speed will get more light into the sensor. The side effect is, if you have a very slow shutter speed the subject might become blurry. That is called camera shake. Rule of thumb for shutter speed is it should be higher than the focal length of your lens. Example, 50mm lens, it would be best to have shutter speed at least at 1/50th of a second. Now if the photo is still dim or dark, you can make the ISO or sensor sensitivity higher. The downside is the photo will be grainy. So it is a matter of balancing these three settings to get the best exposure and area of focus. Example: first I consider how much of the subject is in focus. If I want just the face, then I must use a low f-stop. Then I take a photo. If it's too dark, I lower the shutter speed. If it's still too dark and I'm at the lowest possible shutter speed for my lens and I'll catch camera shake, then I increase the ISO. Sorry for the long reply, I hope it helps. I was in your shoes when I started. As much as possible I would keep my ISO at the lowest possible number as a higher ISO will make a photo have more noise or look grainy.
👏 well explained Megsman, damn well explained. It is all about balancing the 3 elements of exposure and individually tweaking them to your likings. I am still a beginner but hey... everyone starts off somewhere!
Same with ISO and SS. I have ISO's of 200, 250, 320, 400, 500, 640 and so on. Same with SS. It's 1/125, 1/100, 1/80, 1/60, 1/50, 1/40, etc. Every third click is the half of your previous setting. Same with the exposure dial. Three clicks to get from 0 to +1 for example.
I don't know how these exposure number groups are called but if we call these groups, where ISO 400 is half the light of 200 and 500 is half of 250 and 640 of 320, are called "channels" (bth, these channels are not equally 1/3 offset to each other) and of moving the exposure within these channels is halving or doubling the light, then wouldn't is be logical to also group aparture numbers in such channels? I that case we would have two channels. 1-2-4-8-16 and 0.7-1.4-2.8-5.6-11-22
1.4 is "double" 1, as F stop is the amount of light let in compared to the focal length and because of the equation, almost like calculating a circle, if you double the radius, you get 4 times the area. 1.4 happens to be the approx of root 2.
Your explanation is fantastic. It’s the first time ever I understood the 3 factors. Thank you. Please continue to make these videos 🇬🇧
Best explanation of f-stops I ever saw.
Wow i have found the Holy Grail ! Finally i understand Stops .. Thanks a lot. Very well explained.
Thankyou! As a photography student this visual way of learning helps me so much, as I can't really take much in at class.
Thanks for the breakdown it really helped me out.
That's a good hint: take a picture of the same object but with different openings...and see how it looks.
Awesome video, hard to find those these days! It also brightenend my day to know you'r taking a small wrench on your trip!
Great video! It would have been very interesting to show four pictures for aperture and iso too and to compare them all with explainations of the differences.
Encore Merci. That's a great explaination video.
I write out the series from lowest light to highest f22 to F1.4, 100 to 6400, 1000 to B when I look at simple math of exposure. I like the diagram found several places that includes DOF, movement, and quality.
your presentation is a so much good a very easy under standing of your tutorial thanku very much sir
Thank you! 🙏 I'm still new to photography, but your video was another big step towards getting a holistic understanding. 🤓
Brilliant explanation 👏
Short, sharp and sweet 😋 You answered my doubts I had for a long time.
Thanks a lot! Now it makes more sense
I unliked this to like it again. This is the best explanation on UA-cam ever.
Hey Kelebrimbor! HDR is one way to do it, but this video is more aimed at showing our students how to capture the light in a single shot. This is totally possible, though not with the kind of contrast values you would see in an HDR image. HDR is pretty cool, but we are starting with the basics in this course. HDR also takes a little more time and technical knowledge, and is more of an artistic technique than a skill all photographers need to know. Happy shooting!
👍merci beaucoup from New-Caledonia
Thank you for this explanation. I have to start memorizing this. I get the aperture but I think it's the hardest one? It's like every other one is double.
Love it good presention
But it gets more complicated when you want to do things like capture birds in flight... Or moving form bright sun to dark shade (as in a hike)...
Steven Torrey get an ND filter, you can bump up the shutter without changing the aperture to keep the depth of field while still properly exposing your photo
I feel like I'm listening to Casually Explained... Which makes this easier to understand and remember for some reason.
youre a legend thx my man
This is amazing. THANK YOU!
Excellent video!!
Amazing. Thank you!
I’m new to photography, so please forgive me if this is a dumb question. With the example photographs in the video, are you basically saying that you need to compensate for the overexposure of the top half in photo 1 by underexposing the bottom half by a just a touch and getting the ideal result in photo 3?
Thank you from 2021
What if I start at f/1.6 and need to jump 2 stops? How do I know what value to select
by solving the equation (which tremendously easy.[1*x=1,4 which is x=1.4]) I found that by multiplying the f stop number by 1.4 you get half as much light. Otherwise, you can double or half to get to two stops of light (or more commonly known as stops of exposure)
The example of exposure where did you focus to take the photo and what kind of focus matrix centered one point ( or something like that :) ) Im new to photography but I really love the way you made this easy to understand please keep on Im going to subscribe now :) greetings from El Salvador 🇸🇻
What about expired film? If you brought a 400 asa to 50 and shot it with the other settings normally would it still come out well?
This was great, thank you.
Excellent explanation, thanks
Thank you for making this video
But how do you know with what numbers to start?
🎉Thank you so much‼️
Awesome. How do I match the exposure in the same picture say picture 1 and 3? I like the way the darker parts are lit in the 1st pic and the brighter parts of the 3rd? How do it it in case using the f-stop. Obviously in a set we can add or take away light to our choice. How do I do that in an environment with natural light? What kind of an stop difference do I use when lighting for foreground and background. Like basic idea. Mostly I do it by instinct. Thank you. Good video.
Ordinary People try to get filters like a half ND that allow you to reduce light from a certain area like the overly exposed one in the first pic so you can keep the exposure of the lower region
This helped SOOO MUCH 🙏
Great video. What software are using to make the drawing tutorial? Thank you.
But how do I know what to start on?
Experiment and play! There are basic rules to follow.
Thank you good sir!
How are you doubling if 1/1000 is higher than 1/500?
1/1000 * 2 = 2/1000 which simplifies to 1/500 👍🏻
Perfect-Τέλειο!!!!!
that proof the sine form
a sine is 0,707 backwards and 1,41 forwards
f0,7 * 1,41 = F1.0
backwards:
1.0 * 0,707 = F0.7
1,0* 1,41 = F1.4
I am so confused about the f stops. I just don't get it. I get how the shutter and aperture work but how do u combine the f stop numbers? is there a start point? when u double a number how do u know where to cut down? Is there a rule that says how to combine each number, when and how? how did u decide that 2.8 aperture with 1/60 shutter and 200 ISO make the stool's legs even? I've watched so many videos and I still don't get it :(
To get a good starting point to figure out how to get a good balanced photograph. Use something called the sunny 16 rule. This rule gives you a good rough idea of a decent exposure. :)
Yes it can be confusing specially when the smallest hole for the aperture is the biggest f-stop number on your lens. I put it differently to help me better understand it. Instead of f-stop as a measurement of the aperture or hole, I turned it to focus stop. Aperture or f-stop the smaller the number, the smaller the area of focus from front to back of subject or object in focus relative to the distance of the camera. So it can be thought of as percentage in sharp focus. The effect is if you want more to be in focus, increase the f-stop or focus stop (remember that is my definition for f-stop so pros will probably not approve of the definition). The downside of having more in focus is that less light will reach your sensor so the photo will be generally dim. So you can compensate by keeping your shutter open longer for more light to hit the sensor thus brighter photo. Slower shutter speed will get more light into the sensor. The side effect is, if you have a very slow shutter speed the subject might become blurry. That is called camera shake. Rule of thumb for shutter speed is it should be higher than the focal length of your lens. Example, 50mm lens, it would be best to have shutter speed at least at 1/50th of a second. Now if the photo is still dim or dark, you can make the ISO or sensor sensitivity higher. The downside is the photo will be grainy. So it is a matter of balancing these three settings to get the best exposure and area of focus. Example: first I consider how much of the subject is in focus. If I want just the face, then I must use a low f-stop. Then I take a photo. If it's too dark, I lower the shutter speed. If it's still too dark and I'm at the lowest possible shutter speed for my lens and I'll catch camera shake, then I increase the ISO. Sorry for the long reply, I hope it helps. I was in your shoes when I started. As much as possible I would keep my ISO at the lowest possible number as a higher ISO will make a photo have more noise or look grainy.
👏 well explained Megsman, damn well explained. It is all about balancing the 3 elements of exposure and individually tweaking them to your likings. I am still a beginner but hey... everyone starts off somewhere!
Why do I hear all your videos only in my left side of the earphones?
+CeaoS beccause either you headphones or the system you are using them on is broken..
the right ear can't handle all the knowledge so it called in sick 😂
Maybe your balance is only on the right?
thank you
very useful!
How can f/1 be half the light of f/0.7? Isn't f/1.4 half the light of f/0.7?
Same with ISO and SS. I have ISO's of 200, 250, 320, 400, 500, 640 and so on. Same with SS. It's 1/125, 1/100, 1/80, 1/60, 1/50, 1/40, etc. Every third click is the half of your previous setting. Same with the exposure dial. Three clicks to get from 0 to +1 for example.
I don't know how these exposure number groups are called but if we call these groups, where ISO 400 is half the light of 200 and 500 is half of 250 and 640 of 320, are called "channels" (bth, these channels are not equally 1/3 offset to each other) and of moving the exposure within these channels is halving or doubling the light, then wouldn't is be logical to also group aparture numbers in such channels? I that case we would have two channels. 1-2-4-8-16 and 0.7-1.4-2.8-5.6-11-22
1.4 is "double" 1, as F stop is the amount of light let in compared to the focal length and because of the equation, almost like calculating a circle, if you double the radius, you get 4 times the area. 1.4 happens to be the approx of root 2.
Very good lesson, except you are missing the 1.2 f-stop setting in your chart.
In tamil pl
Very confusing