Carb Adapter and Scoop for Blown 55 Chevy Lost Foam Casting
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- This video is about producing a custom induction system for a Blown 55 Chevy show car. An aluminum carb adapter and scoop were cast using the lost foam method to adapt a pair of Inline Autolite Carburetors to 1071 blower. The video concludes with a complete ready-to-run system.
Please subscribe and view other automotive induction system and casting process videos on my channel.
Best,
Kelly - Навчання та стиль
I have been watching for years and I am still in awe! If you have done anything and had all the fails and all the diy learning curves you might see the depth here. Incredible!
Showing Mike Finnegan how it's done properly. A wye with four branches should be called a dinner fork. Your castings are getting cooler exponentially. Talk about one of one: A beautiful '55 210 Chevy, A D5 dual plugged Hemi, a10-71 blower, dual Autolite inline four-barrel carbs, and the cherry on top is that carb adapter and scoop. You never cease to amaze.
Fantastic videos and awesome foundry and shop.
I worked for Precision Castparts Corp. for 35 years and I can offer a bit of advice on your dipping process. Dip the mold in your slurry and then sprinkle sand on the wet mix.
We did that in multiple layers, up to ten layers thick, and this eliminated the need to cast in a sand bucket.
You will wind up with a 'shell' that needs to be removed, but it chips off pretty easy.
Our molds were lost wax, but it is the same process.
Keep up the great work!
Gracias por la información. Thanks a lot
I will be building a variant of the gantry to do lost foam for myself.
this setup was very good inspiration!
"Miracle of lost foam" - miracle is right, great work Kelly, thanks for the video :)
Another great piece from the wizarding world of Kelly Coffield!
Kelly, you Sir, are an absolute Craftsman.
Another great set of parts for this "hybrid"
Gracias por sus videos. Admiro su trabajo. Awesome!
Thank you for sharing this project, you're an artist and a genius.
What, no bug catcher, or bird catcher, maybe Terror Dactyle catcher scoop? I have been thinking about building a micro foundry.. maybe make a bottom pouring crucible using a 8"stainless disc, about 1/8"-1/4" thick. With 4"- 5" hole for pouring. That can open with hot aluminum inside and close back with a funel to work with the outlet in the crucible. With the control by a 1/2" rod and held with 1.5" pipe. Working together. With quick and easy removal. Even at 1000°f+ possibly using ceramic insulation coatings and graphite. Use a waste oil and propane as fuel. I also want to cast iron and mild steel, maybe use a bit of nitrous oxide to provide additional o2 and heat while burning the waste oil. About 1/2 pound to 1lb per hour. Should be extremely hot! I have a 1,lb bottle toexperi experiment with , hopefully i will not have a meltdown! Great video! I hope tobe 1/100 as good as you, thank you for all the info, have an awesome day !!🎉
Great work from start to finish. Beautiful result. Well done!
Dear sir I would like to know what this material (foam) that the mold is made of, how it is made or what is its name. I wish you success and thank you very much
It's extruded polystyrene insulation board. Search my channel. There is a video devoted to pattern materials. Best, Kelly
Dear Kelly, I have an idea that might be useful to you someday.
How about spray-coating the mold instead of brushing it? Exclusively for complex and large parts.
Thank you so much for your videos, thanks to them I started my passion for casting. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to do this for more than two years, but I hope to return to foundry work someday.
Spraying with a plaster texture gun might work if you could get most of it on the pattern. Not so much for interior features. Not sure it would save much time after set up and clean up of the gun compared to brushing on this one. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 It was only an idea. Because I saw some brush marks on the detail. But it is only aesthetics...
@@МайкГоробцов I didn't mean to sound dismissive. It could work. I just wasn't up for developing a new process for one part. The brush strokes are only visible on the coating, not the casting. The pattern surface finish dictates the casting finish, not the coating method. Best, Kelly
I just love watching your successes and the wonderful outcomes.
Pitchfork gate
Love this stuff, great patience and craftmanship to get the results you get!
My favourite kind of artist!
Another inspirational video! Love your work Kelly. I hope to be able to duplicate it for some vintage 2-stroke motorcycle cylinders soon.
Amazing! Do you have tutorial, where you tell more about this procedure, what foam you use, what sand you use etc. I'm pretty sure I can't find any of the brands you use here in Finland, but can I use basically any styrofoam...more dense = better? And should that sand be as fine as possible too? Some people have said in comments, that I should paint the mold with some paint, which I also couldn't find.
Basically, how can I achieve even 50% of these results at home, as cheap as possible? I would like to cast my own 2-stroke cylinder 🙂
All you need to do is subscribe and search and browse the videos at my channel. Besides other projects there are videos dedicated to materials, coatings, pattern making, etc. Best, Kelly
Very nice workmanship
Where are these carbs coming from? There couldn't have been that many made originally.
As always- Bravo and well done!
Incredible.
Nice work, the end result looks awesome.
I see what you mean by using only the one ball end mill and cleaning up the ridges with some sand paper, it looks like the quickest/most efficient method.
Do you ever keep the gating on the part while heat treating to prevent warping?
Jonny
I do leave the gating on but I only heat treat to T5 and at 460F, the threat of the casting distorting is almost nil and you get 80% of the improvement as you would with T6. In a small oven full of casting it is hard to manage the temp for T6. As to whether you are better off with the gating on for T6, if it's much more massive than the casting, it may cause some warpage during the quench. But in general, the casting will be stronger with gating and as long as the casting can sit flat and is well supported under its own weight (I typically cannot do this in my oven), there are pros and cons to either approach. The ally will be less gummy and the gating will definitely machine better after heat treat. Best, Kelly
Very cool project. Where in the world do these people find all those Autolite Inline Fours to use on their projects.
They're out there, but it's like Morel mushrooms and fishing hot spots, when you have a good one you don't tell! Best, Kelly
Neat setup Kelly. Awesome work!
great work
Kelly, some of the lost foam vids I've seen include a step where the coated foam is put in an oven to burn out the foam just leaving the ceramic coating. Does your foam not need this step (aka the foam can be "poured over" with the aluminum)? This would save alot of time and grief with the thin coating then cracking not having any foam to back it.
In what is generally recognized as the lost foam method, the pattern is evaporated by the molten metal during the casting process. The refractory coating is permeable and helps control the rate at which the evaporated gases escape to the mold media which is inexpensive dry, unbound, sand vibratory packed, but the coating is not structural. Foam can be used as the evaporative pattern in hard shell/mold processes sometimes without bake out in chemically bound sand, or with for shell or block investment, but as you have noted, that is much more laborious as is demolding hard molds. Best, Kelly
Hi Sir i will like to ask that what is the spindle speed of this cnc machine and also it precision?
It's always mind boggling how you can pour aluminum in such a thin foam and have excellent results! Also, that finish straight from the router is incredible. Wat I was wondering, If you needed to make let's say 40 of those, what would you do? I was thinking to make the negative mold, pop unexpanded EPS beads in there steam them up to expand, and you would have exactly the same, but in minutes. Have you ever toyed with the idea to make your own molds to expand EPS beads?
Thought about it yes, but it would take a lot more than 40 pieces and the right part feature to make it worth doing IMO. Machining XPS is very practical for small parts....even 40. If 40 would fit on a 24x12x2 piece of stock, they could probably be machined in
Great video. Very nice piece. Does this process of lost foam work for pouring brass?
Yes
Fabulous!
Kelly, Could you do a video about your heat treat process?
T5 for A356 is just 460F for 7-9hrs. The cooling is not controlled. -That's it. Best, Kelly
If someone, say, designed a cylinder head….would you help cast it?
Unlikely
How much stroke would be ideal for a pen router set up something like you built, I would like to build one. Any valuable information you are willing to share.
Thanks.
I'd say you need at least 2 1/2" of stroke and the ability to position initial height. You can buy motor actuated router lifts and make an inverted pin router. They are safer but they don't allow you to see the stock being cut. Alternatively, you can mount it on an arm like mine. Best, Kelly
What temperature for the aluminum for lost foam casting
I will be casting a 15” x 6.5 pulley
Always cold as possible but usually 1350F-1400F for me. Best, Kelly
Have you ever not coated your feeders? I was wondering because I saw another ytber do a lost foam casting without a coating and it turned out somewhat workable. If I had a feeder on top of my casting that wasn't coated(with the drywall compound) I would assume that would greatly reduce the amount of gasses wanting to come out the pouring basin. I hope I explained that sufficiently.
I have but I coat them for several reasons. The coating prevents small amounts of sand from dislodging and washing into the casting. Without coating the sand also tends to imbed in the metal and I prefer that not be the case for remelting/recycling. I dip coat so I get full coverage for nothing. Keep your coating thin and use diluted lightweight, non-setting, joint finishing compound and you should be fine. If you are getting a lot of blow back it's more likely due to your feed system and pouring cup design. The worst is having a large portion of sprue protruding up into a round pouring can/cup. That always causes all heck to break loose. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 thanks for the info. You do awesome work.
How much do you design into it for shrinking?
1.3%
@@kellycoffield533 thank you I’m so intrigued. I watch a video all the time about ready to try it myself.
Hi Kelly, I wonder if you could spray your patterns with an airless
Ya-know Rich, I dont know if an airless could handle it because the slurry is so thick but one of the plaster texture guns certainly could do the job. The problem is with all the cored/interior surfaces. -Can't reach those with line of site. Can't beat dipping if the pattern can handle it. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 thanks for your reply