If you want to see my other sharpening videos check out this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLAN2QNvwVtll3Z6R4gqpP6TJTXF5QsoO0.html I mention a video about how variable the angle can be on the factory edge of a knife, for more info watch this: ua-cam.com/video/GjsmXJ3mTZM/v-deo.html If you are curious of the other CCEU videos check them out here: ua-cam.com/play/PLAN2QNvwVtlkfWNJkB9KsUSXZpZbjlgSY.html
Light is essential. I have a separate light rig with 3 bulbs (different types so the light is more balanced and closer to natural) hanging over my sharpening area in the utility room downstairs, without it my sharpening experience would be MUCH less enjoyable.
I am sure a lot of people do this, at least those who have sharpened knives for many years. If you look up sharpen and burr - there are LOADS of videos saying how ESSENTIAL it is to get a burr with every step, so I just had to make a video showing that it doesn't need to be that way.
Good stuff as always Jake. Even when using a fixed sharpening system there is a learning curve, and like with everything else - the more time you spend doing it the more new things you learn. Using little to no pressure with each stroke was an important one for me. "Let the diamonds do all the work" I've heard someone say. Thanks again for sharing, and good luck with starting your sharpening business!
Yes, I have tried to teach a lot of people that same lesson, especially with stropping - pressure can be your enemy. Chill and let the tool do it's work.
I concur. Once your preferred angle is set, no reason to remove excessive material when using progressive diamond and ceramic stones, especially with fixed angle systems. You will have some naysayers, no doubt, but you demonstrated the principles well. Great vid!
Good stuff man. I've instinctively done this process as well. The progression in stones will get it down to the apex. Thank you for another awesome video.
With a KME you can do the same thing I am suggesting but it can be very hard if you are holding the KME in your hand - this only works well if the system is keeping very still, with no movement (other than the stone going across the knife)
Thanks Jake :) In all honesty l’m not into budged knives but, your reviews are always very thorough and well done. Especially the close-up magnified photos. Sometimes you’ll review a higher priced knife that interest me lol. Our taste are just different, that’s all. I remain a Patreon supporter because l always learn something from you. That great little sharpening tip took the burr off my day :).
Thank you for the ongoing support and the kind words!! I would love to review higher end knives, but I think there are very few reviewers out there who do a good job with budget knives, and so very many people who would love to be knife collectors but they think its just way to expensive, so I try to show them that there are quality knives out there. And as you say, it can't just be collecting knives - they need to learn all the other stuff that is involved with being a knife enthusiast too.
Just to save time. Reprofiling usually means that you need to take off a lot of steel from at least some part of the blade and a coarse stone will get that done more quickly.
I use the grit chart at Gritomatic.com: www.gritomatic.com/pages/grit-chart F400 is just a bit finer than 20/14 according to that chart (I have not gone back to my video to check, but if I made a mistake in the video I made a mistake reading the chart for my notes) There are just WAY to many different grit measuring systems, which is why I like micron's better.
If you want to see my other sharpening videos check out this playlist:
ua-cam.com/play/PLAN2QNvwVtll3Z6R4gqpP6TJTXF5QsoO0.html
I mention a video about how variable the angle can be on the factory edge of a knife, for more info watch this: ua-cam.com/video/GjsmXJ3mTZM/v-deo.html
If you are curious of the other CCEU videos check them out here: ua-cam.com/play/PLAN2QNvwVtlkfWNJkB9KsUSXZpZbjlgSY.html
Light is your friend when sharpening !
Light is essential. I have a separate light rig with 3 bulbs (different types so the light is more balanced and closer to natural) hanging over my sharpening area in the utility room downstairs, without it my sharpening experience would be MUCH less enjoyable.
It's a cool Idea , where you succeded to word a concept I tend to Do by intuition. Good call
I am sure a lot of people do this, at least those who have sharpened knives for many years. If you look up sharpen and burr - there are LOADS of videos saying how ESSENTIAL it is to get a burr with every step, so I just had to make a video showing that it doesn't need to be that way.
Yay! Another informative lecture from CCEU. Thanks for sharing, Jake.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good stuff as always Jake. Even when using a fixed sharpening system there is a learning curve, and like with everything else - the more time you spend doing it the more new things you learn. Using little to no pressure with each stroke was an important one for me. "Let the diamonds do all the work" I've heard someone say. Thanks again for sharing, and good luck with starting your sharpening business!
Yes, I have tried to teach a lot of people that same lesson, especially with stropping - pressure can be your enemy. Chill and let the tool do it's work.
I concur. Once your preferred angle is set, no reason to remove excessive material when using progressive diamond and ceramic stones, especially with fixed angle systems. You will have some naysayers, no doubt, but you demonstrated the principles well. Great vid!
Thanks for the feedback. I hope this information helps many people save a lot of time and steel.
Good stuff man. I've instinctively done this process as well. The progression in stones will get it down to the apex. Thank you for another awesome video.
Thanks. I was sure I wasn't the first to think of this.
Sharpening my fat Recon 1 now on KME as I have this as background computer listening, can't wait to hear!
With a KME you can do the same thing I am suggesting but it can be very hard if you are holding the KME in your hand - this only works well if the system is keeping very still, with no movement (other than the stone going across the knife)
Thanks Jake :) In all honesty l’m not into budged knives but, your reviews are always very thorough and well done. Especially the close-up magnified photos.
Sometimes you’ll review a higher priced knife that interest me lol. Our taste are just different, that’s all.
I remain a Patreon supporter because l always learn something from you. That great little sharpening tip took the burr off my day :).
Thank you for the ongoing support and the kind words!! I would love to review higher end knives, but I think there are very few reviewers out there who do a good job with budget knives, and so very many people who would love to be knife collectors but they think its just way to expensive, so I try to show them that there are quality knives out there. And as you say, it can't just be collecting knives - they need to learn all the other stuff that is involved with being a knife enthusiast too.
Great video, I have bought a lot at Gritomatic . The venev stones are amazing , what do yo recommend for a corse re profile stone?
Just to save time. Reprofiling usually means that you need to take off a lot of steel from at least some part of the blade and a coarse stone will get that done more quickly.
The 20/14 is F400 isn't it?
I use the grit chart at Gritomatic.com: www.gritomatic.com/pages/grit-chart
F400 is just a bit finer than 20/14 according to that chart (I have not gone back to my video to check, but if I made a mistake in the video I made a mistake reading the chart for my notes) There are just WAY to many different grit measuring systems, which is why I like micron's better.
Do I get a degree after I graduate from CCE University? 🤓
Yeah you will get a degree....
The thing is, nobody ever graduates - it's a lifelong program.
🖖 👍
thank you