Making: Huge Nixie Tube prototype - Project H #18
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- All the major issues were solved, the time to make the first complete H tube has come. The main goal for this one is to tell us more about more possible design issues I didn't think before. And I must confess there is a ton of them!
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Amazing to see it all come together! Really great work.
Birds of a feather flock together! I'm not surprised to see you on this channel :D
Thank you! I hoped to fully test the ceramawire with this build.. Nevermind, at least I finally took it out of the storage!
The process for the "darkened" backing plate (in the beginning of the video) looks kind of similar to what you were trying to achieve by etching aluminum in your vantablack video. (Update: Never mind, I watched an older video on the project... it's anodized steel.)
yep.. knew Ben would be here :)
Says one of the most knowledgeable, interesting and innovative youtuber.
I felt so stressed the whole time. When he took the tube off the lathe and showed it too close to the massive metal supports I was like "watch out! stop! you gonna crack it! Stop moving it around! ARGH!" I can't wait to see a good one glow. Huge numerals! Awesome and beautiful.
Hey I am a glassblower from Germany and I wanted to say I really enjoyed watching this video and seeing the development begin! When I saw the attachment of the watchglass I thought I could give you some advice on how you could avoid tension and cracking in the glass for future builds of this prototype:
- the smaller the angle of attatchment from watchglass to the main glass body the more tension you will have on the connection point. Your watchglass attatchment already has an angle of 110-ish degrees towards the body but in theory you could use a Petri-dish which would make a perfect 180°/0° attatchment possible, reducing tension in the glass.
- you can use a blowhose and a silicone plug with a hole to mildly pressurize the inside of the nixie tube and to "blow out" the glass on the connection with your mouth while it is still liquid. It takes a little bit of practice but it improves the way it looks in the end and makes everything more even.
- I couldn't tell by the video how long you decided to "post-heat" because the video is cut of course but you can easily make a good post heating flame with regular pressurized air (not too much air or else its too hot) and just let it sit there for like 3-5 minutes while rotating. Pressurized-air-flames make good post heating flames because they provide the right temperature and they disribute the heat more evenly than a sharp oxygen flame.
I hope you will soon have success turning this prototype into a finished product!
Great information!!
Just some ideas that popped into my head. Very likely useless, but they were rocking in there so might as well put them down if at least one proves useful. Sorry if it's tedious to read and if some are pointless. :)
1. You can straighten wire without pulling on it by rolling the wire between two flat, heavy, metal surfaces. In my case, i use two cheap cast iron inspection tables i bought online. You cut your wire, place it on, roll it, put the next one, roll it, repeat. As you roll them (to be understood, one cast iron table sits normally on a table, the other is placed face down on the other (both need to be clean) and you just lift one end to slide a curved wire. Moving the top plate back and forth will produce a perfectly straight wire. No fuss, no muss. I use it for making stainless steel pins for lamp poles on my architectural maquettes. It's an absolute night mare when you have to plop down something like 500 of them to make a road or something like that). You can proof of concept this with any two flat pieces of metal and some scrap wire, as long as it's not extremely kinked or bent into a U shape, IE if it can roll, it will exit the other end of the "production line" perfectly straight.
Works for tubes too, copper, brass, if i messed up with some poles and they're not excessively bent, i can bring them back to straightness with this method. Obviously, doesn't work with super thin material, the weight of the plates will flatten them. :))
2. You can automate the tube and cap gluing process by making a tool similar to what they use to set percussion caps into bullet cartridges. These system exist already, and in my opinion, you can 3D print your own easily. Not only would this save time in the lay process, but also sort the parts pre-assembly in a more efficient manner that also prevents accidental damage. You'd check each part as you'd load it into the sorter and once sorted into their respective "cartridges" they'd be flattened and immobile.
3. The glue block should have finger recesses on the bottom so you don't have to tap them.
4. When setting the pin wires on their racks to glue the separation tubes, you could ditch the castle nut and replace it with a piece of stainless steel metal that's laser cut to mimic a comb, with little hooks on both ends of a flat piece (to serve both ceramic tubes). Bent to form an U shape, you can then use them to both weigh down the wires, AND align them at the same time. The U shaped double ended comb would have to be either weighted down OR, my proposal, have a little piece of spring wire exit from the bottom of the metal holder so that it catches and keeps the U shaped comb into place with spring force. When you're done, you just release the tension by lifting the spring and pulling the part and comb out, at which point the hooked teeth come out easily releasing the clean, perfectly aligned part.
5. When you get your parts out of the washer, for the metal, i suggest medical forceps, and for the glass, silicone pincer tongs. Both of which can be cleaned with the parts in the machine, thus ensuring clean, secure handling after you've finished the washing cycle.
6. 8:50 the same part that helps you lay the "donuts" in my first idea, can help you put the "donuts" here. One thing i forgot to mention in the first one, is that once you've laid these inside their "cartridges" they remain clean forever, at no point would you need to handle them anymore.
7. 9:35 long tapered reamer. Used very successfully in clock making, has exactly the same use for enlarging clock pointer fingers. :) Works much faster. You should get a few sets of reamers to have on hand for such "momentous" occasions.
8. I saw a few pieces of dust on final assembly, those could be easily removed if you got your hands on the pump and end that dentists use when they do fine tooth reconstruction. Those are extremely powerful suckers and any debris, be it skin, dust, hair, or lint, will get sucked in whilst also giving you the long reach of the utensil itself. You could probably modify a syringe and a high power pump (i mostly noted this one because i didn't see any cleanup procedure, you may already do this :)) ).
Ad1) or use TIG filler rods. Wide assortment of already straight wires in well controlled diameter and with clean surface.
Toto také budeme pravděpodobně ve finále řešit objednáním nastříhaných drátů.. Ale svařovací drát je dobrý nápad!
Hi! Thank you for the long and detailed comment!
1. The main issue is surface contamination in this case - rolling over other metals brings impurities (carbon from the cast iron?) into the surface. Once we have final design, we will order the wires from a company that will straighten and cut them to length.
2. We will try a paste dispenser (later automated with mounting to a 3D printer frame) - this was an idea of Martin Konecny above.
3. The glue block will be later made from aluminum with better clearance..
4-6: thanks for the ideas, will look at it!
7. Ordered!
8. wow, will try one day!
@@daliborfarny straighten wires is also accomplished when you pull the wire whilst turning them in a cord drill! They get hard en straight that way but maybe it also depends a bit on the metal used.Once side in the vice, other side in the drill. Pull and rotate. Try it!
8:55 I don't know what you said but I can imagine what it means...
Very unfortunate that the tube cracked, that is one big beautiful Nixie!
:-) missed it in edit!
At least much less of those words tan i had used... ha ha
Ty vole!
He said ''ty vole''. It usually means '' dude''. But in this situation it meant ''shit'' I don't like Czech language because it's unnecessairly complicated but it has one exception, swearing, it offers a wide variety of swear words that you can combine to create something unique
@@tdolezal That's pretty cool in my opinion, i only hawe my old scoolbooks, but want to learn more about the langauages, espacialy whan it come to details like this one usualy not learn in scool books.
Ok, that spot welder is one of the coolest things I've ever seen. I love the conductor strap for the top half.
Stay strong. This is one hell of a project, and I can only imagine how much sleep it costs you. I'd love to see you succeed and I am really looking forward to see the first digits displayed by those beauties.
Despite the glass breaking on the face of the tube it really is a work of art! Can't wait to see one glowing successfully.
Another masterpiece from the master craftsman!
Never get bored of watching these videos, this guy is a genius!
CAD is well and good, the real challenge is the build; as seen here. But not only did you improve your skills, you als show us the problems, the solutions and finally the success. This is great. Keep up the great work!
You are doing a PILE of (sometimes repetitive) work, a lot with delicate steps. You are bound to have some errors like cracks along the way. The work is amazing, and fun to watch. I can't wait to see this project continue, keep up the good work!
Dalibor Farny, you are doing awesome engineering involved in design and manufacturing of these beauties. Electronic sculptures. Congratulations!
Imagine how little would have been learned if the first one was perfect?
With this crack, every step is gonna get a fine examination and much more will be learned along the way.
How does one get to carnegie hall? Practice.
In spite of the crack, that was a beautiful thing to watch. Looking out for the first successful one: don't be downhearted, keep going!!!
Thank you for keeping this technology alive. It is beautiful artwork.
I too felt that moment when the digit did not fit the stacking posts!
Dam German Spec. Gütin Tight
Ty vole
@@rich1051414 the posts are not 3d printed. they are made out of ceramic.
Clearly no one checked it against the working material. Details, details! Seriously, that's the only fitting issue? Awesome!
I admire your craftmanship. simply amazing.
8:55 "Ty vole"
I felt that
What does that mean?
@@froschgrosch5247 Literally "You bull", a very common phrase used by Czechs for surprise, frustration, or just exclamation.
@@colinpitman You mean steer, or bullock. not bull.
@@colinpitman Now a know a czechs word... tnks... :-)
this doesn't need any translation though
This is astonishing, you Sir, are a craftsman of the highest order. I wish I had even a percentage of your skills and knowledge! Thank you for sharing.
I love all those custom 3D-printed fixtures. Perfect for a small scale production like yours :)
We have two 3d printers (Prusa i3 MK3 and Prusa mini) and they run almost non-stop, there is actually a list of parts that needs to be printed :-) It is a wonderful tool.
@@daliborfarny I'm very happy that you teamed up with Průša because he makes an amazing product :)
Maybe you can try annealing the glass with the torch to keep it from cracking. A sphere front would also look really cool. Also maybe adjust the letter shape so you can apply tension to help keep them from drooping onto each other.
He did, on the lathe, and he was done when it was coated in lampblack. Which is a reference point to kind of indicate a certain temp, and evenness of heat.
This technique of making special electron tubes would certainly attract a lot of attention in the world of music! Amplifier tubes for musicians and high-end hi-fi fans would definitely be in great demand! I recently bought a tube preamp. If someone were able to build electron tubes for specific audio applications, then musicians, sound engineers, etc would probably break his door ...
Could using an annealing furnace relieve the stresses in the faceplate after sealing the tube?
If all the other materials can handle going for a kiln ride, yes- although I reckon that would at least fire scale terribly, and then probably warp all the thin metal bits inside... I can't believe the metal doesn’t deflect more as is. Would arcing/shorting be a problem between certain grids? The state of metal annealing could be critical too for machining and performance. Big units, small annealer problems. Flame annealing for production economy and speed.
If all the other materials can handle going for a kiln ride, yes- although I reckon that would at least fire scale terribly, and then probably warp all the thin metal bits inside... I can't believe the metal doesn’t deflect more as is. Would arcing/shorting be a problem between certain grids? The state of metal annealing could be critical too for machining and performance. Big units, small annealer problems. Flame annealing for production economy and speed.
This was my first thought too, though I don't know if the internals would need an inert atmosphere to be added before annealing which is why it wasn't done to begin with. It may be the that just more even heating and slower more controlled cooling would suffice when adding the face plate. This is always a problem when I am working on larger pieces in lab glassware too, you really have to be mindful of differential heating and the stresses being added into the glass.
@@travismiller5548 I know little about Nixie Tubes but I know a bit about Thermodynamics, Metal and Glass... If I'm understanding why he couldn't continue with this being because it cracked, any amount of uniform annealing is better than leaving parts to cool in the flame and other parts to cool in the room temperature air. Without knowing what type of material the Cathodes are, it's hard to say whether or not warping would be an issue. Usually warping is an issue when thermal expansion isn't allowed and/or when a material is heated or cooled too quickly. In a material that cools to become hard with a low elasticity at room temperature, a high stress area will be a crack.
This might all seem elementary and to be perfectly honest I don't even know why I'm typing this but if I had to make one single improvement in how I dealt with the glass if I was the one doing this, it would be to start the Tube off in a kiln and to work much faster then return the Tube to the kiln as soon as possible to begin the cooling process or to keep the whole piece at as high of a temperature as possible through the whole process with the more fire everywhere all the time method. Might be working with Boroscilicate Glass but the thicker it gets the more careful you have to be with heat shocking it, It's still glass.
Wrapping in a thermally insulating material may he easier.
Really great to see someone keeping tube making a part of the future.
a lot of of hard work for no reason . but thank you for helping us who dont know! and keep up the good work!!
Amazing work! A true labor of love. Must be very gratifying. Beautiful lab.
I have a six tube nixie clock with old Russian tubes. Been running continuously for 13 years.
My most prized possession.
A work of art. Can't wait for prototype #2!
Love to see wearing proper PPE in shorts and shirt. Keep up the dedication, you are the reason we can have nice things.
Props
Beautiful work
It is fascinating to watch you work on these. The precision is mesmerizing!
I am so glad that there are people like this.
Artisan, and craftsman extraordinaire.
On top of being an incredible project, this is just really solid vlogging.
Exactly what my thoughts are
Success is numerous steps of failure before the goal. Still fascinating to watch the prototype develop.....I love the passion in your endeavors! Keep up the outstanding work!
That little spot welder is the second hardest working thing in that shop.
This project is really good, it is incredible, it is beautiful, I really congratulate you for not giving up despite some defects such as the stress that your glass is undergoing, even so, I congratulate you.
Just beautiful and one step closer.
I found your channel because of this video showing up in my feed, had to watch the entire playlist! Looking forward to seeing the process improvements that will get you to the point you can make 200 of these.
Words cannot describe how much respect I have for you and this project. So incredibly emotional to see everything coming together, I'm so happy for you.
This guy is the next james bond villain.
Love your videos.
When you glue the Pins to the two ceramic pipe, you can build a small heavy Comb instead a bolt.
Great camera work! Ahh soon I'll get one of your tubes - or maybe just the whole clock!
That's the dream!
they're for the clock :O
And when you've got this down you can take on hamamatsu and start producing photomultiplier tubes!
Or tubes for X-ray fluorescence guns:)
@@SciDIY One step at a time, no skipping/running.
I think attempting a basic single phosphor CRT display (Green, or white maybe? phosphors need to be determined) would be a cool project.
Start with the "bulbs" for ossiloscopes etc
(This DOES have a market with the retro gaming community i think, old crts are becoming rarer and rarer)
Also see this how its made, your skills and equipment are not that far off!
ua-cam.com/video/MsMsZaSz3Fk/v-deo.html
@@ericlotze7724 : Monochrome vectorscopes would be fairly straightforward, but everything else I would wonder about.
Gorgeous. Looking forward to seeing the first successful demonstration!
The work that goes into that is very impressive and a joy to watch. Sorry about the glass cracking on you.
This is equally fascinating and satisfying as it is completely stressful
Amazing art, I was holding my breath while you were welding the large end.
I have been following Dalibor for about 6-7 years. Have never been able to afford one of their beautiful pieces of art. Hopefully soon, but it is really nice following their journey :)
Corning Glass Works produced a documentary film years ago regarding the difficulties in producing glass automobile headlamp bulbs. Their problem was the front lens tended to crack! Their solution was to thicken the glass near the joint. As well, they decided on a tri-mix of hydrogen, nitrous oxide and oxygen for the welding flame, and that came from IBM's glassware fabrication facility, also in upstate New York.
This was different from a lot of things I see on the net. Thanks for sharing this with us.
I don't know how this came in my recommended videos but it was really good, I'll wait for updates on it, this is really good quality content
Amazing craftsmanship! It's been so long since I worked with Nixie tube displays, I don't remember if they had individual number elements or used the 7 segment element. Nice work and a joy to watch!
Thats not a “making”, thats a witchcraft, fabulous witchcraft 🤓😎🖖
That's determination that is beautiful to watch and something I'd like to discover in myself!
Of course I think there are things that you cannot just learn but I believe more often than not it is mostly the mindset that makes the difference.
Beautiful!
Thank you for nice words! As you mentioned, it is the mindset of keep going (which I never had before with other projects..). All the other things are just 1. study theory + 2. trial and error - I dont think there is anything in the video you couldnt learn.
Is that a castlevania reference? 😂
" I saw them with my own eyes.
And glass in shapes
you've never seen, thin as paper.
Lightning."
Amazing work mate, thankyou for doing what you do. I'm saving up to buy some of your tubes. Worth every cent!
Keep working pal! You got this!!!
You'll get it. Hang in there!
Mr Tesla would’ve paid good money to have you on his team. Extraordinary dedication to your cause 👍🏻🔥🍻
Hey! That's a brand new dish washer!
It looks nice. I'm waiting to see it working. 😊
That man just freakin' straightened iron wire bare handed... And I love nixies ^^
Zdravím Dalibore, asi nejúžasněší video!!! Nádhera Nádhera Nádhera, už se těším až ty parádní čísílka budou zářit.
Jinak 8:56 "ty vole" by ze mě létaly slova o pár řádů výš :-D Už jsem myslel že je video celé v češtině, ale konec mě zklamal :-D
Už se těším na další video a můj obdiv k Vám je zase o "level" výš, jste Borec který nezná "To nejde"
Hoj.
Děkuji! Taky se už nemůžu dočkat až bude svítit, díky za podporu - je super vidět, že sledujete všechny videa :-)
Thank you for this satisfying and educational video please make more thank you
Awesome Dailbor!
Glas is some delicate stuff to deal with. I still got some glas fibers in my hands from experimenting in the late 80s.
Such a great channel and project
That's so cool! You do a great job
best wishes in your continued attempts.
Gorgeous work.
probably need to do annealing process, have a preheated oven you can stick the tube in the moment you are done fusing the front plate on.
Go Kilns! :-)
Very interesting! Thanks UA-cam suggestion algorithm!
That's so cool, please continue making these awesome nixie's!
Це лайк. Чудова і дивовижна робота!
"My light bulb's blown.."
"Hold my beer" :)
Superb! You could make money bespoke tubes for audio valve amps :)
Stumbled onto this on reddit, I have no idea what arcane sciences I'm witnessing but I am transfixed.
I don’t even know what a Nixie tube is I just find the process amazing
Fantastic progress, as always, Dalibor! Thanks for taking us along for the ride, this is incredibly interesting to watch. I remember back in 2011 when you had your first prototypes, and it is truly outstanding what you have achieved. Absolutely amazing.
Around 17:22 there are some noises, is that where the crack developed? I hear one louder one and one metallic one, and only when listening closely.
Hi! Thats a long time ago :-) That crack actually happened short after I turned off the camera, next time I will let a gopro running to catch that frustrating moment for you guys :-D
Yeah, time flies. Back then I made simple glow lamps with a camping stove and residual nitrogen from the air... :) And your camera work is outstanding, no need to change anything! :)
I have seen VFD tubes that were soldered with a low-melting glass or even glued. Maybe that is a method solving the cracking issue, simply dont melt the base material and avoid tension this way
He has looked at using glass frit already. I forget why he chose not to go down that path.
I think he wanted to avoid the appearance of the different colored frit making a visible ring around the face
Big CRTs are built with glass work, why not for a nixie tubes?
Beautiful work! I hope to use your tubes in a clock build some day 👍
Quien más vino del vídeo del canal UPDT
Yo vine esperando que encendiers el foco
This is really superb~
Even though flawed, still beautiful...
man awesome work awesome job, good luck for next time and keep it up truly great =)
Dalibor je génius!!!
Precision, finesse, patience.
A true work of art. A labor of love.
I look forward to seeing it come alive :-)
Thank you for publishing :-)
Subbed at the 1 minute mark, this is good content already.
videos like these for sure makes up for all the other time ive felt like i been cheated,some will know what im saying.
First of all love watching your Videos!
Second, having a project that would involve a lot of soldering that I could imagine best be replaced by spot welding. could you tell me something about your handheld spotwelder?
It is Unitek Miyachi THP tweezers hand piece, with macgregor dc2003 supply.
@@daliborfarny Thank you that will be of great help! I have been looking for something in this order of size but google was not very helpful!
The dish at the front could be deeper which would push the joint to the back of the tube that will make it more aesthetic as well as allow for a direct joint not angular.
8:55 fuuuuuu, ja by som asi tú 6 ku pokrčil v ruke od zlosti ako kus papiera :D , inač super práca
In fact, you are become Professional in this. I am not a specialist, but i can to give you some usefull information.
All oscilloscope tubes, tubes for NIXIE abd etc, had a REALLY thick front glass. It should to start from 3-3.5mm in NIXIE, and up to 7mm in Oscilloscope.
After cutting and first forming, all osciloscope glasses had a stress relief procedure up to 6hrs. Only after that they goes to glass soldering process.
Good luck!
Waiting to see the birth and production premiere of the new super hero nixie tube.... 👌
UPDT! 👍
19:45
Accidental Pyrophone
I guess the temperature differential is being too much even for borosilicate for this diameter I guess you will need to find a way to keep the entire front heated more evenly, maybe you could try to make an electrical heater with the vacuum port in the middle to keep the front at higher Tempe during the whole process
Yeah, or maybe even more gas burners all around the tube.
Although I wonder if the long working time is maybe another (bigger?) issue. I dont know much about glas working, but doesnt long exposure to a flame slightly change the glass's composistion, potentially making it more brittle?
I agree. While it was fascinating to watch the fusing on a lathe, my instincts say that a non-moving fusing method would be better (if more complex.)
@@Basement-Science It doesn't make the glass more brittle. It does, however, induce mechanical stresses in the glass which can be removed by annealing.
That fusion of the front lense and the head/body of the tube looks extra difficult. The middle of the lense staying too cool?
yes - this makes radial strain in the window making it crack. Will fix this next time..
I think the assembly should go into an annealer when you finish the assembly - perhaps do so after the face is fused but before sealing the base to reduce he chances of the lathe chuck inducing cracks. Amazing work as always.
Nice to see the process for a prototype from start to (almost) finished product.
Did you get the prototype to work? (after getting a prototype without cracking the glass)
Where will it be used?
When the camera panned around the finished product, I could not help but to notice the wires going round and wondered what will happen should a wire touch another wire by accident - that will be a problem to resolve.
Imagine a nixie clock with digits of that size ...
Wow great. But can't adjacent numbers touch and short each other?
You may want to research how CRT's were made to help with heat management for large tubes.