Yup, had my transmission flushed, then had it towed to a transmission shop within the same week. Trust me, do it the old fashion way. Pop the pan off, replace filter, add new fluid.
yes and do so twice . take it for a sort 20 min drive going through all gears then repeat..after 2 times you should have atlest 70 to 80 % new fluid..maybe less . but the more the better.. a flush is a disaster waiting to happen..the detergents do just as he said lol..he kind of contradicts himself
I've had my vehicle's transmission (a 2003 Toyota Sequoia) flushed every 30,000 miles over 15 years. Today my vehicle has 270,000 miles and it still runs like new.
I have had two transmissions flushed(Chevy traverse and a Hyundai Santa Fe). I followed the manufactures guidelines and guess what, they both work very well after thousands of miles of city driving. If you get a flush make sure it is done by a reputable car repair shop (not the quick lubes etc.). If you wait to get a flush after the transmission is starting to fail... well of course you are going to have problems. Just my experience.
Oil: 5 quarts synthetic oil 5w-30 = $17 (subscribe and save amazon program) Synthetic Oil filter (bought in bulk): $4.50 3 times a year total supplies: $64.50 Transmission fluid: 4 quarts x $4/quart (bought in bulk)= $16 once a year Total maintenance for the year: $80.50 (price of a single synthetic oil change at thr dealer) Having mechanical skills to be able to do maintenance yourself: priceless
Just flushed my dad's Tahoe myself. His Tahoe has over 200K and his trans was starting to get a very slight whine. Last flush was over 80k ago by previous owner. I put a new filter, cleaned pan and new gasket. Then unhooked return line to trans so the cooler will get flushed as well. Start the car and let a quart pump out, replace quart. Repeat process until fluid comes out nice and clean. His Tahoe now has no whine and it shifts like butter. This was over 4 months ago and he has had no issues. His Tahoe has the 4l60e. I also do a full fluid and filter on my Volvo 240 every 20K. I've had people get in my 240 and say it rides better than their new car. All I got to say is maintenance people.....maintenance. Also, I would never do a flush like in this video. Especially on a high mileage vehicle that hasn't been maintained.
razflyer This is how i do it aswell But technically, its not a flush... its a fluid replacent. No machine to push new fluid through and possibly dislodge something. If you want to speed it up, your pan holds about 4.5 -5.5 quarts of fluid. Mark 4 quarts on a jug or container, start it up, and allow it to pump out the 4 quarts...replace with new fluid and repeat til your satisfied! 1 quart at a time is a long procedure and wastes more fluid in the end... Try it, and you'll see it works better Cheers
John Handcock You dont run the trans in gear... You pump out 3-4 quarts and add that in new fluid and continue the process untill the fluid you're pumping looks like the new fluid. Its a manufacturer approved method of replacing the fluid. It doesn't harm anything.
Just bought a 99 Yukon fluid is halfway between red and brown.No bad smell 339000 miles. I have been researching what to do not sure about maintenance.
Actually you want a continuous flow of new ATF until it emerges after the old discolored ATF is expelled. Stopping and starting is too high a risk of running dry an hurting the gears. You di run through the gears while doing this, right?
Here's the correct explanation. Unless you're the original owner and have flushed the transmission on a regular basis, do NOT flush it. Those tiny passages he's referring to will almost certainly become clogged and you're setting yourself up for future failure. If you've purchased a used vehicle, or have never flushed the transmission, drop the pan, change the filter, add the proper AT fluid. I had a fleet of expedited freight vehicles that were usually purchased used, driven on-demand, and on the road constantly. I regularly had the AT fluid and filters changed but never flushed the transmissions. I had zero transmission-related issues.
Drain and fill with new transmission fluid, do this about 3-4 times and you'll have about 95% of the old fluid replaced with new one! Better than doing a flush!
I think routine drain-and-fills are a great and easy way for a DIYer to maintain their transmission (and the best way to maintain a neglected one full of dark fluid), but it usually takes a lot more than 3-4 times to get most of it replaced. For an example, here's what you'd get if you could remove 1/3 of the fluid with every drain-and fill: 1st D&F: 33% new 2nd: 55% new 3rd: 70% new 4th: 80% new 5th: 87% new 6th: 91% new
That's EXACTLY what I did, no flush needed. Did one Pan drop to clean pan and change filter and fluid, and siphoned fluid out of dipstick, replaced a few times until it was all clean.
@@koomo801 True, but not all cars have that ratio. According to specs, if I drain the fluid out of my cobalt, Im draining just over half of it, not a third of it. Most cars, you will be draining more than a third of the fluid.
Doing a pan drop and filter change then mixing new fluid with old makes zero sense. I understand the issues with these pressure flush machines but at least flush it using the radiator return line where the transmission pumps out all the old fluid. I do that. Running my transmission nearly empty. It’s just for ten seconds in neutral. And something even this dude didn’t mention. Torquing the valve body to factory specs. Those bolts will and do come loose. The valve body in these transmission is a very intricate design it can’t be loose at all.
I have put over 300k miles on my car, never touched the transmission. Flushing every 24-30k miles is ridiculous and you could probably buy 2 transmissions with all the money you saved. It is a 2006 Honda Accord, supposedly you can't flush them anyways according to the dealer. Changed motor oil around every 9k miles when the maintenance minder came on. Solid car, still runs brand new only changed the spark plugs, air filter and breaks. Drained coolant and refilled one time.
I got a plastic hose from Lowe’s. About 4 feet into the transmission stick hole. Pump about 2 quarts every 3 months. Only takes 10 minutes. Fill with new and a 12 oz of Lucas transmission fluid. Smooth as new. I’m in Florida and temperature is a killer.
You should look into Amsoil ATF for your transmission best stuff on the market and it takes heat better than most other synthetics. Also might want to look into getting a transmission cooler installed for cheap insurance in very hot climates. Every 10C hotter it gets it degrades twice as fast!
My 2001 mazda with the 1.6 motor and automatic transmission has 348000 miles, yes you read that right over one third of a million miles and all i ever do is once per year drain the pan thru drainplug and then replace the ''aprox'', three quarts of trans fluid and i was told not to worry about any filter because my fluid is being changed so often the fluid will not get dirty, has never gotten dirty, always looks new and my transmission still shifts like the day i bought it new!!
You call the shop ask for a transmission flush and also ask for a new filter to be installed and the pan cleaned out . What the customer wants is what he gets not everyone knows this.
The best thing to do is just change the fluid every 25,000 miles. Don't bother with changing it 3 times. I had a 2005 Honda Odessey and the transmission was fine at 200,000 miles
I bought my van with 208,000 on it and the transmission fluid was black as coal. I took the plug out and changed maybe 3 quarts at a time. It was still black as coal even after doing it about 9 times. I then pulled a transmission cooler line off and started the engine and dumped trans fluid in while it ran and pumped out. It finally came out like new oil and has looked fine ever since. I now have 328,000 on it and its been fine.
Here is what I do on my 250k miles LS Chevy truck ...Pull the pan, weld a drain bung & plug on the pan and clean with alcohol to cut the grime build-up and the magnet....check the torque on the valve-body bolts ...clean the pan surface and install a new filter.....fill with your favorite transmission fluid to the full mark....start the engine and run in neutral & shifting through the gears for 5-10 seconds 3 times....put it back in park and shut-off the engine ....then drain the fluid through your new drain plug...and refill with new fluid ....to the full mark...overfilling will blow seals ..this way the filter will always catch any particles that shake loose ..!
If you've ever dropped the pan on a well used tranny, you know there's a buildup of gray sludge in the pan and the filter. Any flush without cleaning the pan and installing a new filter will either leave it in there or push it through everything. Neither one is what you want. If you flush: change the filter and clean the pan ( and the magnet in the pan) FIRST. I've never had a high mileage box go bad with this system.
Yes Pat I fully agree with you and for the people that don't believe that maintaining your automatic transmission will extend the life sure people well tell you a standard is better yes they're right but automatics is catching up they are making them tougher.
Old video i know, but I always heard that POWER FLUSHING the transmission, like Pat shows above, CAUSES the tiny metal shavings, and any 'gunk' in there, to be pushed into the MANY tiny passages in the tranny, causing it to start having problems, if you didnt have any to begin with. So you should DRAIN it all out, or as much as you can, so it stays as clean as possible. Before you have any problems. Right? And if you hook up a clear hose to your tranny fluid hose going into the transmission cooler, and run the car in park, it will push out all the old fluid, including from the torque converter, as you pour in new fluid, so it doesn't run dry. When it is running out clear or red/pink, it is all cleaned out. Then you reconnect the hose to the cooler line, and its done! For the price of the fluid and some clear hose.
Cadillac recommends that you drop the pan, replace the filter, replace the gasket and add the AFT through the aforementioned dipstick tube. Some people even go further by disconnecting the trans line from the transmission radiator, installing a clear tube in its place, staring up the vehicle for 5 to 7 seconds forcing the old fluid out, turning off the vehicle, adding new trans fluid, repeating the aforementioned until new fluid is visible through the temporary clear tube. Then reconnecting the original trans tube. With the vehicle in park, idling and in the wake of shifting through all gear selections gradually adding ATF until the proper hot level is sufficient on the dipstick. Many mechanics are against the aforementioned flush because the flushed particles could get lodged in the transmission system, causing damage. Plus, when you drop the pan you clean the magnet, clean the pan and replace the gasket. Either way is better than being passive about your tranny, though.
I was told by the transmission rebuild shop that I should have flushed my transmission instead of changing filter and fluids on transmissions with over 100,000 miles. I paid 1,600 for rebuild. I have flushed all vehicles since and no problems.
I found changing the filter and adding tons of magnets inside on the oil pan (where there is clearance) picks up way more wear metals then the OEM magnet. Typically the pressure control solenoid attracts a lot of metal and then jams or sticks since it is on all the time and modulated by the computer. Having way more magnets in the pan catches and reduces metals that get into the sift solenoids and valve body, my iffy shift quality on a terrible GM 4T65E has improved slowly without major work and saved me $$$$$.
You know what's alot better than those magnets installing a inline filter to the hoses that connect to the cooler. They are less then 20$ and easy to install and easy to replace. You can even get ones installed that use regular oil filters!
what this dude doesn't tell you is that doing this for a high mileage vehicle that has NOT had this done regularly can do harm because the powered flush/chemical agents will break up and dislodge old particles that have found homes inside the nooks and crannies and really doing no harm. Once they are loose and the job is not done 100% throughly (who's perfect), they WILL do harm. So for older cars that are shifting just fine, they should be left alone. Unless you are able to check the trans fluid yourself and confirm that it is dark and nasty, you will eventually need the work soon anywsy. Even then, a fluid exchange, NOT a flush is better.
it does though trust him. the old particles help with friction for shifting. a flush can wash away the super old shit and thus cause trans slipping. happens a lot.
thats also dependent on how often you flushed your tranny. if you're going from black/burnt fluid dont even bother. i have a 2000 dodge that has gotten a few flushes and the only thing that happened was that stupid gov sensor went
I’ve done fluid exchanges on higher mileage transmissions and have yet to have an issue. The BG machine does not use any force to get the fluid out...it utilizes the transmissions oil pump to circulate everything...therefore it’s not really a flush.
Just had my bmw's transmission flushed with bg products yesterday at a local shop. So far so good, i think it shifts alot smoother especially when cold. A lot of people seem to argue that you should do the oil change by droping the pan and changing the filter. But i don't know if it's necessary if you have transmission witch is working fine and is in GOOD condition. Of course there's going to leave some sludge in the pan and the magnets but if there would be so much sludge that it would restrict the flow in the filter i think there would be something badly wrong with the transmission to begin with. And i also think BG products can break at least some of the sludge as they say. It is far more important to get all of the old dirty oil out from the torque converter. Sludge in the magnet on the bottom of the pan doesn't break up transmissions, it's the dirty oil that wears down all the surfaces. Of course if you have an old high milage car it is important also to clean the magnets and change the filter, but flush is equally important unless even more important.
I think I’m gonna go into the comments section for some real advice by the guys who designed an automatic transmission and the other guys who designed the formula for the fluid, here I go! 🤞🏼🤞🏼👨🏼🔬👨🔧
Doing 3x drain and fill transmission fluid with a transmission filter change before the 3rd drain and fill will be the safest method. No flushing at all
With Honda autos (not the CVTs) change out same time as every oil change and you'll be in great shape as it'll keep the fluid relatively fresh throughout the service life. The Honda autos work differently than other makes and so the fluid gets very contaminated with metal shavings leading to problems if you wait too long.
I drove my car a million+ miles & never changed the motor oil or Trans fluid. Now that I think about it, I filled it up with gas 1 time & it's still on full after 15yrs. I have the best car ever dreamt of
(Cont.) "There is no Pressure drop inside the touque convetor itself." There is. Pressure varies at different locations throughout the torque converter. For an example, since fluid is forced into the turbine fins to create change in direction, THAT part of the torque converter will have the highest pressure (and consequently viscous friction), and when fluid exits the turbine and goes past the stator and into the pump (housing) again, pressure decreases as it flings oil outwards centrifugally.
This guy is more of an automotive journalist than an experience mechanic in that he always makes these one-size-fits-all broad statement and offers the same brand of automotive advice, no matter the make or model car. He says "back in the day" you dropped the pan and changed the fluid, filter, and gasket - which did nothing to prolong transmission life. Really? He also fails to mention that torque converters once had drain plugs in them and could easily be drained, at home, without the need of a shop or expensive equipment, and they hardly ever failed but auto makers removed them to save a dime and to sell replacement converters and transmissions. Nor does he mention how many auto makers have promoted their transmissions as having lifetime fluid that never needs to be changed (or that by following that advice limits the lifetime in and of itself). In the long run, a simple transmission fluid change is better than nothing (and in many cases better for the trans than a flush).
"Lifetime fill" means the shop has to replace the transmission because it ran too long with expired failed fluid. Please elucidate the difference between "a simple transmission change" and a "flush" (I see none) and why one is better than the other.
Strangely Subaru of Japan will tell you to change the transmission fluid but in America Subaru tells you not to unless you drive your car with extreme conditions.
Being a female, I was always a little hesitant about changing the transmission fluid on my vehicle. I have a 2009 mitsubshi lancer that I commute back and forth to work with about 297,000 miles. Other than basic oil changes, tires, coolant etc, I have never touch my transmission fluid. My motto if not broke don't fix! With that many miles with no major problem! When it's broke, I will gladly fix with no problem, because it would be time.
What does being a female have to do with it? Men are no more talented when it comes to learning, understanding and practicing mechanic principles (my wife was a diesel mechanic in the Navy, so I know). It's a matter of decision and effort, not genitalia.
+shon jon I drove a Honda accord up to 420,000 before I sold the car for $1000. I hear tha guy is still driving the car today. With good maintenance its possible!!!
shon jon: i know this is a little old but is your lancer still ticking along? i had a mits montero that never had anything go wrong with alot of miles on it, cant quote mileage, it was an '88...thanx
The change of direction of fluid happens inside the TURBINE, not the stator. The stator is just to prevent the fluid exiting the turbine from hitting pump at opposite direction. Once the whole thing is up to speed and oil flow no longer reverse, the stator free-wheels using a one way bearing. It does run on pressure because when you change the direction of the fluid you are creating pressure anyway, Newton's third law. Just like a fan blowing another fan: pressure + change of fluid direction.
As to what you said, I just had my transmission flushed today and the technician add the conditioner after he unhook the machine.. I know this because I was there watching him the whole time. Therefore the conditioner wasn't drain out with the old fluid.. Can you explain that??? I will be calling them tomorrow as to why they did it different!
spookerr, sounds like you have a honda. We routinely use our BG machine to flush transmissions except for Honda's which specifically recommend doing what you are doing instead of a flush. We have Honda's with hi mileage and transmissions are holding up well, since they are actually DESIGNED to be drained/refilled.
The problem with the flushing machines is that that same machine may flush several different types of transmissions and have residue of multiple types of transmission fluids and lets face it possibly not cleaned in between cycles. If shops had dedicated flushing machines that let’s say only flushed Ford Transmissions then possibly. What about the technique of draining, removing filter if able, draining again in let’s say 1000.....(without filter and then a final time again fluid only in another 1000 miles after that. Would most of the Fluid from the Torque Converter eventually work through the system and end up in the drain pan. Yes expensive and time consuming but your using clean fluid and not risking any foreign material from the flushing machine being introduced into the new fluid.
Yikes, I stay clear of chemicals. I do a flush at the cooler lines and let the pump do the work. Mercon V every 50K AND an auxiliary cooler has gotten me 12 trouble free HOT Florida years and 141,000 miles out of the trans in my 2006 Taurus SEL. The pan was dropped and filter replaced on the first change.
thats thought the owners manual does say DO NOT DO FLUSHES, how else will you keep your transmission clean? im not really worry about the pressure being used bc it is the same pressure as the transmission since it is the transmission pressure being used
Hey Pat i'm using the mobil one synthetic in my new transmission why I believe in mobil one synthetic transmission fluid it's a good product I want to keep up with the maintenance on my truck
If your willing to spend the money on good atf check out amsoil. For a little bit more money you can get a real synthetic atf. Proven to last over 100k miles with a study done using las vegas cabs. Check it out its great stuff! All of mobil 1's full synthetic oils are only 80-90% synthetic the rest is a conventional oil that is used to carry the additives in the oil. Amsoil is a true 100% synthetic group 4 PAO oil.
thirstyy thristyy actually lots of vehicles can be damaged by flushing the automatic transmission. This is because the flushing machine contains metal particles from other cars and these particles can cause a reaction (electrolysis due to dissimilar metals) which will quickly destroy some transmissions. Check you factory manual and follow it's instructions.
Have you ever been to a transmission shop? They have a huge line.. They're not in need of more cars to fix. Don't Flush. Drain the transmission oil pan, and add more fluid. That will replace about half the fluid in the system. If you do it regularly, every 30k miles, and drop the pan to clean and change the filter every other time, then the fluid will not go bad.
I have a jaguar s type 4.0. the dealership says its a sealed transmission and the fluid doesn't need to be changed, I don't agree with that. It's have 117,000 never had a transmission flush? if I have a transmission flush done ,would I have any problems with the transmission?some people tell me yes some people tell me yes?some say me no? please help!
The problem with auto shops that flush automatic transmissions is they don't drop the pan and change the filter. When it's flushed under pressure by the machine all the metallic particles plug the filter which restricts the transmission fluid flow leading to transmission failure. Flush ? yes, after dropping the pan and changing the filter or no flush and just drop the pan, change the filter and what old oil is in the pan and put new fluid and you should be okay.
Stop at 1:31. Your transmission filter should stop ANY dirt from getting buy it. If its bad no amount of flushing will help. Replace the filter. Stop at 2:17. This is not true. All vehicle manufacturers recommend the first filter replacement at 100,000 miles for all ATF's. After that 50,000 miles there after. Stop at 2:51. Your transmission is NOT clean after the machine runs the chemicals through it only the fluid is. By the way ATF's have a detergent in them which is a cleaner and hence cleans contaminates out of your transmission and stores those contaminates in your fluid which is why it needs to be changed, just like motor oil. Too make a long story short change your filter and the service interval amount of fluid with the right fluid then go down and have your transmission flushed. No flush is needed if you dont change your filter first. Good sense, good video, but he just left stuff out.
Filters do not stop all contaminants from getting through, only those above a certain size. Replacing old expired fluid with new fluid certainly helps transmission function. This should be obvious as that is how new transmissions are delivered. While some manufacturers recommend "lifetime fills" and thus no maintenance, the folly of that should be readily apparent. The filter and gasket is changed when the planetary gear box is drained before the new fluid flushes out the torque converter and refills the planetary gearset. Goss did not "leave anything out" but rather you threw untrue information into his well considered exposition. Here is a hint: using a white paper towel and compare the used ATF to a sample of the same brand new ATF. Any change in color is an indicator of wear. The less the better. Also, auxiliary ATF coolers can help stabilize ATF temperatures which will extend ATF life. Heat exchangers for ATF plumbed through the radiator are to heat ATF, not to cool it.
(Cont.) "The fluid flow is doing the work not the pressure. " Work=Force.Distance Pressure=Force/Area Therefore work done on the turbine depends on the rotational pressure exerted on turbine fins from vectoring fluid TIMES lateral surface area of fins TIMES angular distance traveled by fins. Forward pressure comes from impellers. Back-pressure comes from change in fluid direction and vicious friction (losses). No pressure, no force, no rotation. The whole thing runs on hydraulic pressure.
bought a used car with 115,000 miles on it. I have no maintenance records. Transmission oil is brown in color. Looks like it has never been change. Should I change it or not ? At the time I have no issues with the Transmission.
orlando6517 I am on the same boat as you, I have a bmw x5 with 168000 miles I am pretty sure it also has not been changed according to the dealer its life time but there life time is 100000 miles then what I guess its a gamble do you or don't you?? it seems to be fine the way it is do you tamper with something if its not broke?? between a rock and a hard place it seems
+eviloctober ; I would ask your transmission shop what they thought. If they were not trustworthy, I wouldn't be going to that shop in the first place. But like you said, if you’re not having any kind of problem, I wouldn't go through the cost, still given just one hint, and I am in there.
I have a 2005 excursion with 115000 miles. I didn't buy it until about a year ago so I'm not sure of the maintenance history on it. I recently learned of a way to flush the trans at home, by unhooking the trans cooler supply line starting the vehicle and pouring trans fluid in as the old is pumped out through the cooler line. Is this a safe/effective way to flush the fluid?
My 2000 legacy auto has 270,000 on it and when I change the fluid every 25,000 with Mobil 1 and new screw on filter, the old fluid looks and smells new. Trans has never been flushed or been apart.
Jiffy Lube change my transmission oil there's a straight flush for 80 bucks and some change car runs smooth saw the dark oil gets sucked out and fresh new oil came right back out.. and this was a 2016 Chevy Traverse today I took my 1999 Chevy Suburban to get the feel flush same procedure paid $100 I did not change the filter or the gasket.
its a fairly new vehicle. You don't need to do this service - make sure it has the latest synthetic fluid like DEX VI, and you can run it for decades. Just dump and fill every few years to make sure its not contaminated or leaking.
Does the machine account for expansion of transmission fluid? So before the flush begins, let's say the fluid is hot, if we push 1 quart of fluid, it actually replaces .8 quart because .8 had expanded to 1 quart, so that can lead to overfill for sealed transmissions? Please clarify Thanks
ok, I understand the point here but why do most manufacturers have statements in the owners manual saying to not do any flushes? I have always stayed away from flushes and never had an issue, I do a full exchange by working with the input /output lines to get all the fluid out.
Gary Buffington No its not, its considered a drain and fill method, you should be ashamed of yourself for thinking you are as smart. A flush is adding a chemical to run through before the draining.
+fordwindsor351 You should stick to truck driving for Swift....You might drive a truck with the name "Swift" on it, and your company shirt might say "Swift" on it, that does not make you "Swift". {:O)~
Ok Pat! I had 95 4runner! Some oil company in Sacramento told me that i needed a transmission flush... told it better for my runner 3 months later it had problems shifting! So i towed to Auburn Toyota dealership they told i need a whole new transmission!!!! So plz explain to what went wrong PAT! And how does not changing the trans filter help any!!??? When flushing it thru those stupid machines
Well alot could have happened. They could have put the hoses on the machine backwards pushing the crap out of the filter into the transmission. The flush itself could have pushed deposits into the solenoids that open and close causing them to stick open or closed. They may have used the wrong fluid. This is why unless you have proof of flushs being done consistently you shouldn't do it. Removing the oil pan changing the filter and replacing the oil then draining and filling 3x is way safer then any machine. You should contact the BBB and make a report of them damaging your vehicle.
Lot of people ignore their transmission till it gives them problems hundreds of thousands of kilometers later. They then decide to do a flush which clears out the buildups and varnish that prevented full failure, and the tranny fails. They then blame the flush. The buildups that occur partially seal spots that typically are worn out, once you remove that you now have slop and huge tolerances. Take care of your transmission, it's complex and the fluid is a very important aspect to the function of said device. Wait too long and instead of a 200-300 dollar flush it's a 900-5000 dollar tranny.
Flushing is a disaster you'll regret. Drain and fill is safe way to go. if you need to do 3 drain and fills because ur ATF is black, then 3 it is. I do a drain and fill on my ATF (which is fairly clean) once a year. Maintenance is key.
Drain and refill (hopefully with filter and gasket replacement) leaves 2/3 of the old contaminated ATF in the transmission. So only the old expired fluid is being diluted, but better than nothing.
What about letting fluid run from a trans cooler line and filling back up with new fluid until what comes out is bright red? I just don't like traditional drain and fill from the pan since there will always be like 5-10% of the old fluid there
The 6Gen Chevy Camaro owners are dealing with their A8 transmission issues that cause shuddering when driving. Chevy/GM is recommending a triple flush and torque converter replacements until their find a permanent fix for the problem.
What? I have 4th gen and I would be terrified if I had to flush 3 times. I have also heard those new transmission cvt are problems waiting to happen. Kinda wish I kept a car with those older turbo 350 or 400 transmission.
@@charlesolinger6250 Yea. This is an issue across most of their cars and trucks. I believe they recommend Mobil 1 for the Turbo4 and V6 and Dextron for the V8s. Use your car Vin and look up the specific Bulletin.
"Take a garden hose. put your thumb over part of the hose and point the hose at a soda bottle or something. The soda bottle gets knocked over right? What knocked it over. The pressure or the fluid flow." BOTH. Fluid flow causes pressure when it's forced to change vector(i.e. when hitting the soda can). To generate fluid flow, you need pressure, when fluid exists the hose pressure drops to atmospheric pressure, pressure spikes again when it hits can; Pressure varies throughout torque converter.
Regarding particles breaking off and clogging components like valve bodies, etc, wouldn't the filter catch these particles before they travel into the rest of the transmission? The fluid flow is from the pan, through the filter, though the transmission, to the cooler, back into the pan. Or am I wrong?
It depends on the filter in the transmission because a lot of transmission filters just have a mesh screen and it doesn't collect a lot of the fine particles. This is why i tell people to install a inline filter on the transmission cooler lines.
I have a 2006 Pontiac Vibe with an automatic transmission. I changed the transmission fluid at 36,000 miles and now it has 189,000 miles on the transmission. I've heard it's bad to change the transmission fluid and filter at this mileage. Is this true? I'm worried that my transmission is doomed with the old transmission fluid in it.
If the transmission is working properly, I'd just do a drain and refill (change the filter, too, if you have one) and I would not flush it. After that, if you change your own motor oil, you can also do a simple drain and fill of the trans. without a filter change, every few engine oil changes. You simply replace the volume of fluid that drained out. The manual or dealer or on-line forums can tell you exactly what that volume will be.
I have a 1990 Montero that i have no clue if it has ever been serviced in any way. Overdrive doesn't work and 3rd shifts rough. It has 160 on the truck. Is it better to flush it our leave it alone. I've heard that desterbing the fluid at this point is worse than new fluid
I’ve personally never owned a vehicle where the manufacturer recommends transmission flushes. I’ve owned a few cars that got 250-300k on the original Trans with only doing drain and fills every 60k miles. Just do back to back drain and fills and you get the vast majority of the old fluid out. ATF has detergents in it already. No reason to reinvent the wheel. People are scared to death to have a spec of anything in their engines and trans. Relax, that 0.00006 nanogram of dirt or waste product isn’t hurting anything.
I change the fluid put solenoid in it put Lucas in it put it back together put a new filter now Crank It Up and it tries to go in gear then it cuts off the motor quits running what is that
would I get the same results if my flushing process consist of drain and refull 3 times? at honda its hundreds of dollars to use a machine someone suggested that u do it at home drain/refilll. true?
BNforever2009 Your car will have a specific time frame from the manufacturer, other auto shops will tell you every 24-30k since that means more visits. depends how long you want to keep the car as well. I think most modern cars have 80k or 100k fills and at that point, youll probably get rid of the thing before it really need a flush and fill. If you plan to keep the car forever, and do lots of heavy stop and go or hauling, id probably do it every 50k.
Yeah except for Nissan with CVT, this is considered a huge no no. Nissan North America totally discourages shops using a machine that "cleans" the transmission using chemicals as these can leave behind residue that can damage the CVT. I've read where owners after refilling the pan, just flush the system by removing the return line from the cooler,start the car and replace fluid in 1-QT increments until it flows clean.
Should be fine. Just use synthetic Amsoil signature or Mobil 1. Just dont wait until the car has 150 thousand miles. I recently switched to amsoil signature fluids and the transmission shift is better than when new.
Most car manufacturers don't recommend flushing a transmission as it can cause damage. This is a sudo science theory which sounds good at first.Get all bad fluid out right. Read your manual it'll tell ya different
What happens if you flush all of the transmission fluid and refill it with toyota fluid.Because the mechanic did that to my Toyota Camry 2006 and my dad said your transmission can get damaged and die.U should never flush it.Im so nervous what should I do now.I don't want to flush my wallet.Please help!
Right okay.... Just check your fluids people and if the T-fluid is brown flush it down or out what ever floats your boat. You car savy people should cycle your fluids it'll help you avoid the dreaded trip to the shop for a full on flush, good luck!
Flushes are only good if the vehicle owner(s) has executed the vehicle's manufacturers transmission maintenance recommendations, punctually. Little to no particle build up with the aforementioned responsible actions, would warrant the flush method.
+Justin P. Thats my situation and i'v been told that. I have 126,000 miles on my Chevy Cavalier and never did a transmission flush. What about just having the pan dropped, replace the filter, and top off the fluid only;
Don't ever use a flush machine. Either drain 1/3rd out and refill on a regular basis or remove the return line and use the cars own transmission pump to remove fluid (and add back in 1 quart intervals) completely. Either way will work fine. Occasionally change the filter every 75k-100k. My cars have 250k on them and that's all I have ever done. Never had a transmission issue. Dislodging particles by using an external pump and adding cleaner like this guy promotes is useless and will end up causing issues. Guaranteed. Don't listen to them.
You are 100% right. I myself rather do drop and fills min 3x. Also for transmissions where they have no removable pan and filter I recomend getting a inline filter installed on one of the lines connecting to the cooler. They keep the atf clean and are really easy to replace every other oil change. You can even cut them open to see how the transmission is doing. Also I recommend people always use synthetic ATF. Amsoil Mobil1 or valvoline but only if they meet your transmissions spec that is listed on the bottle. If you have a very fast car installing a transmission cooler will also extend the life of your transmission aswell!
im guessing it's too late for this if your transmission is throwing codes and sticking to the first two gears and slipping right? I was just given an estimate of 2 grand for rebuild on a 2008 dodge avenger 2.4 liter Fwd with a 40Tes transmission. i want to make sure I could not just take it to a lube center for the elderly lady that owns this car before she shells out all her SS money on this. It appears to me that the fluid is darker than it should be and has tiny black particles in it, the car will run for a few blocks and start slipping, I assume these particles are packed in there blocking the flow and when the car has driven far enough that the flow is nearly cut off it slips out. I was hoping, If this assumption is correct, that a flush clean and replacement filter would do the trick on this. In fact, I wonder if that is exactly what some shops do and then bill the customer for a rebuild. This lady does not have the money to get shafted like that and I really want to help her but i don't have the cash either. does anyone here know how much a flush and fluid change with filter replacement might cost on this car? Or if it's just a futile thing and i should tell her we need to take it to have it rebuilt.? This car just now went 100k. 100,098 and Poof!
awesome, i was considering doing this in a few thousand miles, we ended up getting another transmission and installing it, it had 56K on it and seemed good to go but I want it to last so i was thinking after we run it a while I will do that. and then probably again in a year or so if we still have this car.
Its always the same story, people dont change the fluid out of general neglect, then when it gets to the point where they give a shit and (it needs all new fluid) they are scared to flush it, which is the only way to change all the fluid...unless you do many drain/fills which is not a service most quicky lube places offer
Pat, do you think it's a scam from Hyundai when they say, Automatic Transmission Fluid and filter are not needed & they said we don't change them? Well, my friend's Genesis hits 106K and dealership said the transmission needs to be replaced. They implied that the transmission fluid was so dirty and extremely low. Yet, they never remove the bolts nor pan out. How nice, after 100k warranty. What is your opinions on this scam to all the owners?
If you are going to keep a car to 300k or 400k miles or more get a transmission flush, and change the filter as well. Same as doing the fluid change. The only difference the fluid change is Leaving about 40% of the old fluid inside the transmission, but you still need to change the filter as well, why would you leave an old filter on with new fluid that's asinine especially when you have the correct part. If your transmission is failing or slipping, then don't do a flush it's only going to make it worse. But if you're transmission is doing well operating normally, you never had a flush or have a Pre-owned vehicle, the previous owner never did a flush. Have it done, you're car can easily go another 100k plus on the same transmission without having a rebuild or new transmission installed. Parts break down prematurely because owners never change the fluid. If you think it's a such thing as a lifetime fluid, don't own a vehicle buy a bicycle. Or electric vehicle, but then eventually the battery over the years will stop operating at full capacity, then you will have to change that.
"Pressure is a result of resistance to fluid flow." Therefore pressure is required to overcome vicious friction. And when fluid flow is being resisted by the load (turbine) pressure is generated and torque results. Newton's Third Law, basic physics. "You can have fluid flow but no pressure" That isn't true under basic Fluid Dynamics. All fluids have a certain viscosity and flow will generate pressure and require pressure to overcome, unless it's an ideal fluid which doesn't exist in real life.
I got Toyota with 250 k I flushed transmission once at 120 k I heard many mechanics don't recommend flush at all every 30 k guy you nuts stop wasting ppl money
Just do a drain and fill. Every 10k or so, I drain out the 2 qts that's supposed to come out when the drain plug is removed and replace it with Toyota factory fluid. Fluid stays nice and pink.
LOL "changing the fluid and filter" won't do anything! There is a reason why there is a filter in there; flushing without replacing the filter is a recipe for disaster as all of the fluid that is fed through the transmission pump must pass through the filter first. Regular fluid AND filter changes would be money well spent.
Yup, had my transmission flushed, then had it towed to a transmission shop within the same week. Trust me, do it the old fashion way. Pop the pan off, replace filter, add new fluid.
***** Uh... I'm sure you don't mean the catalytic converter... as it is part of the exhaust system not the transmission.
yes and do so twice . take it for a sort 20 min drive going through all gears then repeat..after 2 times you should have atlest 70 to 80 % new fluid..maybe less . but the more the better.. a flush is a disaster waiting to happen..the detergents do just as he said lol..he kind of contradicts himself
how many miles did it have?
@@madmade6877 More like 50% new fluid. Much better to have 98% new fluid.
Who flushed it? Was it the dealership? Or some random mechanic?
I've had my vehicle's transmission (a 2003 Toyota Sequoia) flushed every 30,000 miles over 15 years. Today my vehicle has 270,000 miles and it still runs like new.
Maybe you are the gay
Most likely not power flushed, the fluid was changed the old fashion way of dropping the pan.
Unnecessary expense . 2000 bucks really means you would have 5000 in your pocket today ! And you could have 2 sequoias instead of 1.
I have had two transmissions flushed(Chevy traverse and a Hyundai Santa Fe). I followed the manufactures guidelines and guess what, they both work very well after thousands of miles of city driving. If you get a flush make sure it is done by a reputable car repair shop (not the quick lubes etc.). If you wait to get a flush after the transmission is starting to fail... well of course you are going to have problems. Just my experience.
Precisely! Expired dark fluid means the transmission is wearing faster than it would with fresh fluid. A very simple concept.
@@maxnix346 If the fluid is dark you already have a issue. For every 10c hotter the fluid gets the twice as fast the fluid will degrade.
Exactly
I do a drain/fill on my transmission every 3 oil changes or so and fluid looks brand new all the time. Cheap insurance.
Smart.
.... what a waste of money!
What a waste of money 😂😂
Oil: 5 quarts synthetic oil 5w-30 = $17 (subscribe and save amazon program)
Synthetic Oil filter (bought in bulk): $4.50
3 times a year total supplies: $64.50
Transmission fluid: 4 quarts x $4/quart (bought in bulk)= $16 once a year
Total maintenance for the year: $80.50 (price of a single synthetic oil change at thr dealer)
Having mechanical skills to be able to do maintenance yourself: priceless
Just flushed my dad's Tahoe myself. His Tahoe has over 200K and his trans was starting to get a very slight whine. Last flush was over 80k ago by previous owner. I put a new filter, cleaned pan and new gasket. Then unhooked return line to trans so the cooler will get flushed as well. Start the car and let a quart pump out, replace quart. Repeat process until fluid comes out nice and clean. His Tahoe now has no whine and it shifts like butter. This was over 4 months ago and he has had no issues. His Tahoe has the 4l60e. I also do a full fluid and filter on my Volvo 240 every 20K. I've had people get in my 240 and say it rides better than their new car. All I got to say is maintenance people.....maintenance.
Also, I would never do a flush like in this video. Especially on a high mileage vehicle that hasn't been maintained.
razflyer
This is how i do it aswell
But technically, its not a flush... its a fluid replacent. No machine to push new fluid through and possibly dislodge something.
If you want to speed it up, your pan holds about 4.5 -5.5 quarts of fluid.
Mark 4 quarts on a jug or container, start it up, and allow it to pump out the 4 quarts...replace with new fluid and repeat til your satisfied!
1 quart at a time is a long procedure and wastes more fluid in the end...
Try it, and you'll see it works better
Cheers
John Handcock
You dont run the trans in gear...
You pump out 3-4 quarts and add that in new fluid and continue the process untill the fluid you're pumping looks like the new fluid.
Its a manufacturer approved method of replacing the fluid. It doesn't harm anything.
razflyer thank you for this awesome advice
Just bought a 99 Yukon fluid is halfway between red and brown.No bad smell 339000 miles. I have been researching what to do not sure about maintenance.
Actually you want a continuous flow of new ATF until it emerges after the old discolored ATF is expelled. Stopping and starting is too high a risk of running dry an hurting the gears. You di run through the gears while doing this, right?
Here's the correct explanation. Unless you're the original owner and have flushed the transmission on a regular basis, do NOT flush it. Those tiny passages he's referring to will almost certainly become clogged and you're setting yourself up for future failure. If you've purchased a used vehicle, or have never flushed the transmission, drop the pan, change the filter, add the proper AT fluid. I had a fleet of expedited freight vehicles that were usually purchased used, driven on-demand, and on the road constantly. I regularly had the AT fluid and filters changed but never flushed the transmissions. I had zero transmission-related issues.
Drain and fill with new transmission fluid, do this about 3-4 times and you'll have about 95% of the old fluid replaced with new one! Better than doing a flush!
I think routine drain-and-fills are a great and easy way for a DIYer to maintain their transmission (and the best way to maintain a neglected one full of dark fluid), but it usually takes a lot more than 3-4 times to get most of it replaced.
For an example, here's what you'd get if you could remove 1/3 of the fluid with every drain-and fill:
1st D&F: 33% new
2nd: 55% new
3rd: 70% new
4th: 80% new
5th: 87% new
6th: 91% new
Drain and fill 3-4 times with new transmission fluid is just bull sh*yet.
That's EXACTLY what I did, no flush needed. Did one Pan drop to clean pan and change filter and fluid, and siphoned fluid out of dipstick, replaced a few times until it was all clean.
@@koomo801 True, but not all cars have that ratio. According to specs, if I drain the fluid out of my cobalt, Im draining just over half of it, not a third of it. Most cars, you will be draining more than a third of the fluid.
BG is a sponsor. No wonder he’s recommending flushes. I’ve had too many mechanics tell me to never flush a transmission.
Doing a pan drop and filter change then mixing new fluid with old makes zero sense. I understand the issues with these pressure flush machines but at least flush it using the radiator return line where the transmission pumps out all the old fluid. I do that. Running my transmission nearly empty. It’s just for ten seconds in neutral. And something even this dude didn’t mention. Torquing the valve body to factory specs. Those bolts will and do come loose. The valve body in these transmission is a very intricate design it can’t be loose at all.
Agree friend had his chevy truck flushed and 1200 miles later trans failed.
I have put over 300k miles on my car, never touched the transmission. Flushing every 24-30k miles is ridiculous and you could probably buy 2 transmissions with all the money you saved. It is a 2006 Honda Accord, supposedly you can't flush them anyways according to the dealer. Changed motor oil around every 9k miles when the maintenance minder came on. Solid car, still runs brand new only changed the spark plugs, air filter and breaks. Drained coolant and refilled one time.
so did you do transmission flush or you been running the same oil for 300 k?
My 90 Acura was replaced at 160K miles. Flushed at 190K miles.
@@dannymartinez8522 Would love to see its color.
I got a plastic hose from Lowe’s. About 4 feet into the transmission stick hole. Pump about 2 quarts every 3 months. Only takes 10 minutes. Fill with new and a 12 oz of Lucas transmission fluid. Smooth as new. I’m in Florida and temperature is a killer.
You should look into Amsoil ATF for your transmission best stuff on the market and it takes heat better than most other synthetics. Also might want to look into getting a transmission cooler installed for cheap insurance in very hot climates. Every 10C hotter it gets it degrades twice as fast!
My 2001 mazda with the 1.6 motor and automatic transmission has 348000 miles, yes you read that right over one third of a million miles and all i ever do is once per year drain the pan thru drainplug and then replace the ''aprox'', three quarts of trans fluid and i was told not to worry about any filter because my fluid is being changed so often the fluid will not get dirty, has never gotten dirty, always looks new and my transmission still shifts like the day i bought it new!!
You call the shop ask for a transmission flush and also ask for a new filter to be installed and the pan cleaned out . What the customer wants is what he gets not everyone knows this.
JC Leonardo when you do that..check and see if they even pulled the transmission pan off lol odds are they never did
The best thing to do is just change the fluid every 25,000 miles. Don't bother with changing it 3 times. I had a 2005 Honda Odessey and the transmission was fine at 200,000 miles
I bought my van with 208,000 on it and the transmission fluid was black as coal. I took the plug out and changed maybe 3 quarts at a time. It was still black as coal even after doing it about 9 times. I then pulled a transmission cooler line off and started the engine and dumped trans fluid in while it ran and pumped out. It finally came out like new oil and has looked fine ever since. I now have 328,000 on it and its been fine.
Here is what I do on my 250k miles LS Chevy truck ...Pull the pan, weld a drain bung & plug on the pan and clean with alcohol to cut the grime build-up and the magnet....check the torque on the valve-body bolts ...clean the pan surface and install a new filter.....fill with your favorite transmission fluid to the full mark....start the engine and run in neutral & shifting through the gears for 5-10 seconds 3 times....put it back in park and shut-off the engine ....then drain the fluid through your new drain plug...and refill with new fluid ....to the full mark...overfilling will blow seals ..this way the filter will always catch any particles that shake loose ..!
I had a transmission flush,F----- up my car.DON'T GET A FLUSH !!! Pat is a salesmen for BG products.
If you've ever dropped the pan on a well used tranny, you know there's a buildup of gray sludge in the pan and the filter. Any flush without cleaning the pan and installing a new filter will either leave it in there or push it through everything. Neither one is what you want. If you flush: change the filter and clean the pan ( and the magnet in the pan) FIRST.
I've never had a high mileage box go bad with this system.
Your absolutely right.
#1 top comment! Great idea! Remove as much as possible BEFORE flushing. Thanks!
Yes Pat I fully agree with you and for the people that don't believe that maintaining your automatic transmission will extend the life sure people well tell you a standard is better yes they're right but automatics is catching up they are making them tougher.
Old video i know, but I always heard that POWER FLUSHING the transmission, like Pat shows above, CAUSES the tiny metal shavings, and any 'gunk' in there, to be pushed into the MANY tiny passages in the tranny, causing it to start having problems, if you didnt have any to begin with.
So you should DRAIN it all out, or as much as you can, so it stays as clean as possible. Before you have any problems. Right?
And if you hook up a clear hose to your tranny fluid hose going into the transmission cooler, and run the car in park, it will push out all the old fluid, including from the torque converter, as you pour in new fluid, so it doesn't run dry. When it is running out clear or red/pink, it is all cleaned out. Then you reconnect the hose to the cooler line, and its done! For the price of the fluid and some clear hose.
Most smart mechanics will actually do the flush this way since they dont need to purchase a expensive machine to do the process.
Cadillac recommends that you drop the pan, replace the filter, replace the gasket and add the AFT through the aforementioned dipstick tube. Some people even go further by disconnecting the trans line from the transmission radiator, installing a clear tube in its place, staring up the vehicle for 5 to 7 seconds forcing the old fluid out, turning off the vehicle, adding new trans fluid, repeating the aforementioned until new fluid is visible through the temporary clear tube. Then reconnecting the original trans tube. With the vehicle in park, idling and in the wake of shifting through all gear selections gradually adding ATF until the proper hot level is sufficient on the dipstick. Many mechanics are against the aforementioned flush because the flushed particles could get lodged in the transmission system, causing damage. Plus, when you drop the pan you clean the magnet, clean the pan and replace the gasket. Either way is better than being passive about your tranny, though.
I was told by the transmission rebuild shop that I should have flushed my transmission instead of changing filter and fluids on transmissions with over 100,000 miles. I paid 1,600 for rebuild. I have flushed all vehicles since and no problems.
I found changing the filter and adding tons of magnets inside on the oil pan (where there is clearance) picks up way more wear metals then the OEM magnet. Typically the pressure control solenoid attracts a lot of metal and then jams or sticks since it is on all the time and modulated by the computer. Having way more magnets in the pan catches and reduces metals that get into the sift solenoids and valve body, my iffy shift quality on a terrible GM 4T65E has improved slowly without major work and saved me $$$$$.
You know what's alot better than those magnets installing a inline filter to the hoses that connect to the cooler. They are less then 20$ and easy to install and easy to replace. You can even get ones installed that use regular oil filters!
what this dude doesn't tell you is that doing this for a high mileage vehicle that has NOT had this done regularly can do harm because the powered flush/chemical agents will break up and dislodge old particles that have found homes inside the nooks and crannies and really doing no harm. Once they are loose and the job is not done 100% throughly (who's perfect), they WILL do harm. So for older cars that are shifting just fine, they should be left alone. Unless you are able to check the trans fluid yourself and confirm that it is dark and nasty, you will eventually need the work soon anywsy. Even then, a fluid exchange, NOT a flush is better.
So leave it dirty? don't make sense..
it does though trust him. the old particles help with friction for shifting. a flush can wash away the super old shit and thus cause trans slipping. happens a lot.
^ THIS.
thats also dependent on how often you flushed your tranny. if you're going from black/burnt fluid dont even bother. i have a 2000 dodge that has gotten a few flushes and the only thing that happened was that stupid gov sensor went
I’ve done fluid exchanges on higher mileage transmissions and have yet to have an issue. The BG machine does not use any force to get the fluid out...it utilizes the transmissions oil pump to circulate everything...therefore it’s not really a flush.
Just had my bmw's transmission flushed with bg products yesterday at a local shop. So far so good, i think it shifts alot smoother especially when cold. A lot of people seem to argue that you should do the oil change by droping the pan and changing the filter. But i don't know if it's necessary if you have transmission witch is working fine and is in GOOD condition. Of course there's going to leave some sludge in the pan and the magnets but if there would be so much sludge that it would restrict the flow in the filter i think there would be something badly wrong with the transmission to begin with. And i also think BG products can break at least some of the sludge as they say. It is far more important to get all of the old dirty oil out from the torque converter. Sludge in the magnet on the bottom of the pan doesn't break up transmissions, it's the dirty oil that wears down all the surfaces. Of course if you have an old high milage car it is important also to clean the magnets and change the filter, but flush is equally important unless even more important.
I think I’m gonna go into the comments section for some real advice by the guys who designed an automatic transmission and the other guys who designed the formula for the fluid, here I go! 🤞🏼🤞🏼👨🏼🔬👨🔧
Haha everyone’s an expert 😂😂😂
got a 2002 Dodge Dakota V-6 rear wheel drive, trans is good, had a trans tune up 5 years ago. Fluid turning dark now, plan on getting a trans tune up.
Doing 3x drain and fill transmission fluid with a transmission filter change before the 3rd drain and fill will be the safest method. No flushing at all
With Honda autos (not the CVTs) change out same time as every oil change and you'll be in great shape as it'll keep the fluid relatively fresh throughout the service life. The Honda autos work differently than other makes and so the fluid gets very contaminated with metal shavings leading to problems if you wait too long.
Sure. Had this procedure done at a shop to my Kia. Two weeks later... Transmission failed.
I drove my car a million+ miles & never changed the motor oil or Trans fluid. Now that I think about it, I filled it up with gas 1 time & it's still on full after 15yrs. I have the best car ever dreamt of
+Abraham Gabreal one thats on its way to car heaven real soon...
u just described my '85 toyota pickup w/ 22r motor.
Is your gas meter working? Or do you turn on your car once every year to go to the corner store?
(Cont.)
"There is no Pressure drop inside the touque convetor itself."
There is. Pressure varies at different locations throughout the torque converter. For an example, since fluid is forced into the turbine fins to create change in direction, THAT part of the torque converter will have the highest pressure (and consequently viscous friction), and when fluid exits the turbine and goes past the stator and into the pump (housing) again, pressure decreases as it flings oil outwards centrifugally.
But if the "flung" fluid is continuously being replaced, there is no "pressure drop."
This guy is more of an automotive journalist than an experience mechanic in that he always makes these one-size-fits-all broad statement and offers the same brand of automotive advice, no matter the make or model car. He says "back in the day" you dropped the pan and changed the fluid, filter, and gasket - which did nothing to prolong transmission life. Really? He also fails to mention that torque converters once had drain plugs in them and could easily be drained, at home, without the need of a shop or expensive equipment, and they hardly ever failed but auto makers removed them to save a dime and to sell replacement converters and transmissions. Nor does he mention how many auto makers have promoted their transmissions as having lifetime fluid that never needs to be changed (or that by following that advice limits the lifetime in and of itself). In the long run, a simple transmission fluid change is better than nothing (and in many cases better for the trans than a flush).
"Lifetime fill" means the shop has to replace the transmission because it ran too long with expired failed fluid. Please elucidate the difference between "a simple transmission change" and a "flush" (I see none) and why one is better than the other.
Strangely Subaru of Japan will tell you to change the transmission fluid but in America Subaru tells you not to unless you drive your car with extreme conditions.
I knew so many people flushed their transmission so after that problems began. do it as oil change only
Being a female, I was always a little hesitant about changing the transmission fluid on my vehicle. I have a 2009 mitsubshi lancer that I commute back and forth to work with about 297,000 miles. Other than basic oil changes, tires, coolant etc, I have never touch my transmission fluid. My motto if not broke don't fix! With that many miles with no major problem! When it's broke, I will gladly fix with no problem, because it would be time.
What does being a female have to do with it? Men are no more talented when it comes to learning, understanding and practicing mechanic principles (my wife was a diesel mechanic in the Navy, so I know). It's a matter of decision and effort, not genitalia.
***** You are correct!!! Till this day I'm still riding! NOW about 332,00 miles and still ticking as NEW!!!!!! Finger cross! :)
+shon jon I drove a Honda accord up to 420,000 before I sold the car for $1000. I hear tha guy is still driving the car today. With good maintenance its possible!!!
shon jon: i know this is a little old but is your lancer still ticking along? i had a mits montero that never had anything go wrong with alot of miles on it, cant quote mileage, it was an '88...thanx
smart chick!
The change of direction of fluid happens inside the TURBINE, not the stator. The stator is just to prevent the fluid exiting the turbine from hitting pump at opposite direction. Once the whole thing is up to speed and oil flow no longer reverse, the stator free-wheels using a one way bearing.
It does run on pressure because when you change the direction of the fluid you are creating pressure anyway, Newton's third law. Just like a fan blowing another fan: pressure + change of fluid direction.
As to what you said, I just had my transmission flushed today and the technician add the conditioner after he unhook the machine.. I know this because I was there watching him the whole time. Therefore the conditioner wasn't drain out with the old fluid.. Can you explain that??? I will be calling them tomorrow as to why they did it different!
spookerr, sounds like you have a honda. We routinely use our BG machine to flush transmissions except for Honda's which specifically recommend doing what you are doing instead of a flush. We have Honda's with hi mileage and transmissions are holding up well, since they are actually DESIGNED to be drained/refilled.
BS! Honda automatic operate like all other automatics with torque converter and planetary gearset.
@@maxnix346 I know my Honda does NOT have a planetary gear set. It has two shafts side by side a main and counter shaft '99 CRV MDLA transmission
What about if it cleans friction material from the clutches
The problem with the flushing machines is that that same machine may flush several different types of transmissions and have residue of multiple types of transmission fluids and lets face it possibly not cleaned in between cycles. If shops had dedicated flushing machines that let’s say only flushed Ford Transmissions then possibly.
What about the technique of draining, removing filter if able, draining again in let’s say 1000.....(without filter and then a final time again fluid only in another 1000 miles after that. Would most of the Fluid from the Torque Converter eventually work through the system and end up in the drain pan. Yes expensive and time consuming but your using clean fluid and not risking any foreign material from the flushing machine being introduced into the new fluid.
Thanks for video. My car is due to be serviced at 60K. Going with Flush!
Yikes, I stay clear of chemicals. I do a flush at the cooler lines and let the pump do the work. Mercon V every 50K AND an auxiliary cooler has gotten me 12 trouble free HOT Florida years and 141,000 miles out of the trans in my 2006 Taurus SEL. The pan was dropped and filter replaced on the first change.
Okay I bought a car with 190’000 miles on it and the man I bought it from said it was flushed around 60,000 so will it hurt to flush now or not ?
thats thought the owners manual does say DO NOT DO FLUSHES, how else will you keep your transmission clean? im not really worry about the pressure being used bc it is the same pressure as the transmission since it is the transmission pressure being used
Flush your transmission if you want a 50/50 chance of destroying your transmission - Scotty Kilmer knows
Hey Pat i'm using the mobil one synthetic in my new transmission why I believe in mobil one synthetic transmission fluid it's a good product I want to keep up with the maintenance on my truck
If your willing to spend the money on good atf check out amsoil. For a little bit more money you can get a real synthetic atf. Proven to last over 100k miles with a study done using las vegas cabs. Check it out its great stuff! All of mobil 1's full synthetic oils are only 80-90% synthetic the rest is a conventional oil that is used to carry the additives in the oil. Amsoil is a true 100% synthetic group 4 PAO oil.
I haven't spoken to a trans rebuild shop yet that recommends flushing.
thirstyy thristyy actually lots of vehicles can be damaged by flushing the automatic transmission. This is because the flushing machine contains metal particles from other cars and these particles can cause a reaction (electrolysis due to dissimilar metals) which will quickly destroy some transmissions.
Check you factory manual and follow it's instructions.
That's because they want your trassmission to fail you idiot more business for them
That’s funny AAmco does this service.
totaldla I was told guns kill people too.
Have you ever been to a transmission shop? They have a huge line.. They're not in need of more cars to fix.
Don't Flush. Drain the transmission oil pan, and add more fluid. That will replace about half the fluid in the system. If you do it regularly, every 30k miles, and drop the pan to clean and change the filter every other time, then the fluid will not go bad.
I have a jaguar s type 4.0. the dealership says its a sealed transmission and the fluid doesn't need to be changed, I don't agree with that. It's have 117,000 never had a transmission flush? if I have a transmission flush done ,would I have any problems with the transmission?some people tell me yes some people tell me yes?some say me no? please help!
I have used BG for many years great stuff!! But I got to ask was Pat paid for the spot by BG???
He was.
The problem with auto shops that flush automatic transmissions is they don't drop the pan and change the filter.
When it's flushed under pressure by the machine all the metallic particles plug the filter which restricts the transmission fluid flow leading to transmission failure.
Flush ? yes, after dropping the pan and changing the filter or no flush and just drop the pan, change the filter and what old oil is in the pan and put new fluid and you should be okay.
Excellent explainer!!
Stop at 1:31. Your transmission filter should stop ANY dirt from getting buy it. If its bad no amount of flushing will help. Replace the filter. Stop at 2:17. This is not true. All vehicle manufacturers recommend the first filter replacement at 100,000 miles for all ATF's. After that 50,000 miles there after. Stop at 2:51. Your transmission is NOT clean after the machine runs the chemicals through it only the fluid is. By the way ATF's have a detergent in them which is a cleaner and hence cleans contaminates out of your transmission and stores those contaminates in your fluid which is why it needs to be changed, just like motor oil. Too make a long story short change your filter and the service interval amount of fluid with the right fluid then go down and have your transmission flushed. No flush is needed if you dont change your filter first. Good sense, good video, but he just left stuff out.
then you just clogged your new filter..sinse cleaners were put in a flushed through it
Filters do not stop all contaminants from getting through, only those above a certain size. Replacing old expired fluid with new fluid certainly helps transmission function. This should be obvious as that is how new transmissions are delivered. While some manufacturers recommend "lifetime fills" and thus no maintenance, the folly of that should be readily apparent. The filter and gasket is changed when the planetary gear box is drained before the new fluid flushes out the torque converter and refills the planetary gearset. Goss did not "leave anything out" but rather you threw untrue information into his well considered exposition. Here is a hint: using a white paper towel and compare the used ATF to a sample of the same brand new ATF. Any change in color is an indicator of wear. The less the better. Also, auxiliary ATF coolers can help stabilize ATF temperatures which will extend ATF life. Heat exchangers for ATF plumbed through the radiator are to heat ATF, not to cool it.
@@maxnix346 Why is ATF getting heated through a radiator if cooling it is better?
(Cont.)
"The fluid flow is doing the work not the pressure. "
Work=Force.Distance
Pressure=Force/Area
Therefore work done on the turbine depends on the rotational pressure exerted on turbine fins from vectoring fluid TIMES lateral surface area of fins TIMES angular distance traveled by fins.
Forward pressure comes from impellers. Back-pressure comes from change in fluid direction and vicious friction (losses). No pressure, no force, no rotation.
The whole thing runs on hydraulic pressure.
bought a used car with 115,000 miles on it. I have no maintenance records. Transmission oil is brown in color. Looks like it has never been change. Should I change it or not ? At the time I have no issues with the Transmission.
orlando6517 I am on the same boat as you, I have a bmw x5 with 168000 miles I am pretty sure it also has not been changed according to the dealer its life time but there life time is 100000 miles then what I guess its a gamble do you or don't you?? it seems to be fine the way it is do you tamper with something if its not broke?? between a rock and a hard place it seems
+eviloctober ;
I would ask your transmission shop what they thought. If they were not trustworthy, I wouldn't be
going to that shop in the first place.
But like you said, if you’re not having any kind of problem, I wouldn't go through the cost, still given just one hint, and I am in there.
But Main dealers say trans oil is for life! So who's right?
(Cont.)
In other words, without any pressure in the first place you can't force the liquid trough the fins to cause change in direction.
I have a 2005 excursion with 115000 miles. I didn't buy it until about a year ago so I'm not sure of the maintenance history on it. I recently learned of a way to flush the trans at home, by unhooking the trans cooler supply line starting the vehicle and pouring trans fluid in as the old is pumped out through the cooler line. Is this a safe/effective way to flush the fluid?
My 2000 legacy auto has 270,000 on it and when I change the fluid every 25,000 with Mobil 1 and new screw on filter, the old fluid looks and smells new. Trans has never been flushed or been apart.
Now 305,000.
How do you "change the fluid?" The ATF filter is in the pan, it is not external.
@@maxnix346 On older subarus the trans filter is external and looks like an oil filter.
Jiffy Lube change my transmission oil there's a straight flush for 80 bucks and some change car runs smooth saw the dark oil gets sucked out and fresh new oil came right back out.. and this was a 2016 Chevy Traverse today I took my 1999 Chevy Suburban to get the feel flush same procedure paid $100 I did not change the filter or the gasket.
its a fairly new vehicle. You don't need to do this service - make sure it has the latest synthetic fluid like DEX VI, and you can run it for decades. Just dump and fill every few years to make sure its not contaminated or leaking.
Does the machine account for expansion of transmission fluid? So before the flush begins, let's say the fluid is hot, if we push 1 quart of fluid, it actually replaces .8 quart because .8 had expanded to 1 quart, so that can lead to overfill for sealed transmissions? Please clarify Thanks
ok, I understand the point here but why do most manufacturers have statements in the owners manual saying to not do any flushes? I have always stayed away from flushes and never had an issue, I do a full exchange by working with the input /output lines to get all the fluid out.
Yes but flushes aren't the reason
Gary Buffington No its not, its considered a drain and fill method, you should be ashamed of yourself for thinking you are as smart. A flush is adding a chemical to run through before the draining.
+Gary Buffington techs across this country are wrong in many cases, thanks for pointing out you as being one of them. Thanks!
+fordwindsor351 You should stick to truck driving for Swift....You might drive a truck with the name "Swift" on it, and your company shirt might say "Swift" on it, that does not make you "Swift". {:O)~
+Gary Buffington LOL, shows how much you know, you failed miserably.
Ok Pat! I had 95 4runner! Some oil company in Sacramento told me that i needed a transmission flush... told it better for my runner 3 months later it had problems shifting!
So i towed to Auburn Toyota dealership they told i need a whole new transmission!!!! So plz explain to what went wrong PAT!
And how does not changing the trans filter help any!!??? When flushing it thru those stupid machines
Well alot could have happened. They could have put the hoses on the machine backwards pushing the crap out of the filter into the transmission. The flush itself could have pushed deposits into the solenoids that open and close causing them to stick open or closed. They may have used the wrong fluid. This is why unless you have proof of flushs being done consistently you shouldn't do it. Removing the oil pan changing the filter and replacing the oil then draining and filling 3x is way safer then any machine. You should contact the BBB and make a report of them damaging your vehicle.
Lot of people ignore their transmission till it gives them problems hundreds of thousands of kilometers later. They then decide to do a flush which clears out the buildups and varnish that prevented full failure, and the tranny fails.
They then blame the flush.
The buildups that occur partially seal spots that typically are worn out, once you remove that you now have slop and huge tolerances.
Take care of your transmission, it's complex and the fluid is a very important aspect to the function of said device. Wait too long and instead of a 200-300 dollar flush it's a 900-5000 dollar tranny.
Flushing is a disaster you'll regret. Drain and fill is safe way to go. if you need to do 3 drain and fills because ur ATF is black, then 3 it is. I do a drain and fill on my ATF (which is fairly clean) once a year. Maintenance is key.
Drain and refill (hopefully with filter and gasket replacement) leaves 2/3 of the old contaminated ATF in the transmission. So only the old expired fluid is being diluted, but better than nothing.
What about letting fluid run from a trans cooler line and filling back up with new fluid until what comes out is bright red? I just don't like traditional drain and fill from the pan since there will always be like 5-10% of the old fluid there
The 6Gen Chevy Camaro owners are dealing with their A8 transmission issues that cause shuddering when driving. Chevy/GM is recommending a triple flush and torque converter replacements until their find a permanent fix for the problem.
Another sign of the decline of GM.
What? I have 4th gen and I would be terrified if I had to flush 3 times. I have also heard those new transmission cvt are problems waiting to happen. Kinda wish I kept a car with those older turbo 350 or 400 transmission.
@@charlesolinger6250 The have since rectified the situation by using a newer version of their transmission fluid.
@@MrTee12 Dextron 6? I know I read a gm bulletin report on 4th gens to upgrade to dextron 6 from dex3. I haven't done that. Yet
@@charlesolinger6250 Yea. This is an issue across most of their cars and trucks. I believe they recommend Mobil 1 for the Turbo4 and V6 and Dextron for the V8s. Use your car Vin and look up the specific Bulletin.
Can you make a video on the difference between the maintenance of a manual vs an automatic transmission ?
"Take a garden hose. put your thumb over part of the hose and point the hose at a soda bottle or something. The soda bottle gets knocked over right? What knocked it over. The pressure or the fluid flow."
BOTH. Fluid flow causes pressure when it's forced to change vector(i.e. when hitting the soda can). To generate fluid flow, you need pressure, when fluid exists the hose pressure drops to atmospheric pressure, pressure spikes again when it hits can; Pressure varies throughout torque converter.
Regarding particles breaking off and clogging components like valve bodies, etc, wouldn't the filter catch these particles before they travel into the rest of the transmission? The fluid flow is from the pan, through the filter, though the transmission, to the cooler, back into the pan. Or am I wrong?
It depends on the filter in the transmission because a lot of transmission filters just have a mesh screen and it doesn't collect a lot of the fine particles. This is why i tell people to install a inline filter on the transmission cooler lines.
The Ford Crown vic. owner's manual does not recommend using any flushes because it could damage the engine or transmission.
I have a 2006 Pontiac Vibe with an automatic transmission. I changed the transmission fluid at 36,000 miles and now it has 189,000 miles on the transmission. I've heard it's bad to change the transmission fluid and filter at this mileage. Is this true? I'm worried that my transmission is doomed with the old transmission fluid in it.
If the transmission is working properly, I'd just do a drain and refill (change the filter, too, if you have one) and I would not flush it. After that, if you change your own motor oil, you can also do a simple drain and fill of the trans. without a filter change, every few engine oil changes. You simply replace the volume of fluid that drained out. The manual or dealer or on-line forums can tell you exactly what that volume will be.
What about hermetically sealed transmissions? According to Toyota’s documentation transmission fluid color is not an indication of its functionality.
I have a 1990 Montero that i have no clue if it has ever been serviced in any way. Overdrive doesn't work and 3rd shifts rough. It has 160 on the truck. Is it better to flush it our leave it alone. I've heard that desterbing the fluid at this point is worse than new fluid
my ford focus has 191,000 miles 2005 neither me nor the previous owner changed the transmission fluid. Sometimes better just to leave it sealed.
Im old school,need to drop the pan, remove metal shavings from bottom of pan, replace filter and gasket and add new fluid.
I’ve personally never owned a vehicle where the manufacturer recommends transmission flushes. I’ve owned a few cars that got 250-300k on the original Trans with only doing drain and fills every 60k miles.
Just do back to back drain and fills and you get the vast majority of the old fluid out. ATF has detergents in it already. No reason to reinvent the wheel. People are scared to death to have a spec of anything in their engines and trans. Relax, that 0.00006 nanogram of dirt or waste product isn’t hurting anything.
I change the fluid put solenoid in it put Lucas in it put it back together put a new filter now Crank It Up and it tries to go in gear then it cuts off the motor quits running what is that
would I get the same results if my flushing process consist of drain and refull 3 times? at honda its hundreds of dollars to use a machine someone suggested that u do it at home drain/refilll. true?
how often do you get a trans flush? once a year, every 4 years?
BNforever2009 Your car will have a specific time frame from the manufacturer, other auto shops will tell you every 24-30k since that means more visits.
depends how long you want to keep the car as well.
I think most modern cars have 80k or 100k fills and at that point, youll probably get rid of the thing before it really need a flush and fill. If you plan to keep the car forever, and do lots of heavy stop and go or hauling, id probably do it every 50k.
If I use stop leak on my radiator can that create a blockage in my transmission?
Finally someone with enough brains to succinctly describe why a flush works better. Ive heard more rambling on this subject than on Donald's hair.
He was payed by BG to lie to about flushing being better. If BG sold transmission filter he would say the opposite.
true, follow the money
seeker28WV i
Yeah except for Nissan with CVT, this is considered a huge no no. Nissan North America totally discourages shops using a machine that "cleans" the transmission using chemicals as these can leave behind residue that can damage the CVT. I've read where owners after refilling the pan, just flush the system by removing the return line from the cooler,start the car and replace fluid in 1-QT increments until it flows clean.
It is unnecessary to change fluid & filter (if they have a filter) n a CVT because they don't shift from clutch to clutch.
Flushing destroyed my transmission.... I now stick with drain and fill or trans pump flush only...
Is it safe to do a flush at 65k on a 14 Toyota Corolla S with a CVT
Should be fine. Just use synthetic Amsoil signature or Mobil 1. Just dont wait until the car has 150 thousand miles. I recently switched to amsoil signature fluids and the transmission shift is better than when new.
cause so many small spaces its best to flush new fluid through lines to get all the fluid rather then use a flushing chemical
oh I have a manual if that makes any difference
My 95 chevy silverado will drive but will not change to the next gear. Any taughts
Any maintenance? Ever?
Most car manufacturers don't recommend flushing a transmission as it can cause damage. This is a sudo science theory which sounds good at first.Get all bad fluid out right. Read your manual it'll tell ya different
RIP PAT
Is that an Alfa Romeo 8C convertible behind him?
Yes, you are correct.
What happens if you flush all of the transmission fluid and refill it with toyota fluid.Because the mechanic did that to my Toyota Camry 2006 and my dad said your transmission can get damaged and die.U should never flush it.Im so nervous what should I do now.I don't want to flush my wallet.Please help!
Right okay.... Just check your fluids people and if the T-fluid is brown flush it down or out what ever floats your boat. You car savy people should cycle your fluids it'll help you avoid the dreaded trip to the shop for a full on flush, good luck!
Brown is too late. Better done when dark cherry red.
Flushes are only good if the vehicle owner(s) has executed the vehicle's manufacturers transmission maintenance recommendations, punctually. Little to no particle build up with the aforementioned responsible actions, would warrant the flush method.
I really doubt that Mr Goss is giving his independent opinion on this when there are hundreds of stories of transmissions failing after flushing.
if your transmission has not been survived for a long time and the fluid is dirty, don't flush, u could do more harm
Don't flush it anyway. Change the filter.
+Justin P. Thats my situation and i'v been told that. I have 126,000 miles on my Chevy Cavalier and never did a transmission flush.
What about just having the pan dropped, replace the filter, and top off the fluid only;
Dan Livni I didn't change my filter until 145,000 miles. I changed it 2 more times before I rebuilt it at 285,000 miles.
Don't ever use a flush machine. Either drain 1/3rd out and refill on a regular basis or remove the return line and use the cars own transmission pump to remove fluid (and add back in 1 quart intervals) completely. Either way will work fine. Occasionally change the filter every 75k-100k. My cars have 250k on them and that's all I have ever done. Never had a transmission issue. Dislodging particles by using an external pump and adding cleaner like this guy promotes is useless and will end up causing issues. Guaranteed. Don't listen to them.
You are 100% right. I myself rather do drop and fills min 3x. Also for transmissions where they have no removable pan and filter I recomend getting a inline filter installed on one of the lines connecting to the cooler. They keep the atf clean and are really easy to replace every other oil change. You can even cut them open to see how the transmission is doing. Also I recommend people always use synthetic ATF. Amsoil Mobil1 or valvoline but only if they meet your transmissions spec that is listed on the bottle. If you have a very fast car installing a transmission cooler will also extend the life of your transmission aswell!
im guessing it's too late for this if your transmission is throwing codes and sticking to the first two gears and slipping right? I was just given an estimate of 2 grand for rebuild on a 2008 dodge avenger 2.4 liter Fwd with a 40Tes transmission.
i want to make sure I could not just take it to a lube center for the elderly lady that owns this car before she shells out all her SS money on this. It appears to me that the fluid is darker than it should be and has tiny black particles in it, the car will run for a few blocks and start slipping, I assume these particles are packed in there blocking the flow and when the car has driven far enough that the flow is nearly cut off it slips out. I was hoping, If this assumption is correct, that a flush clean and replacement filter would do the trick on this. In fact, I wonder if that is exactly what some shops do and then bill the customer for a rebuild. This lady does not have the money to get shafted like that and I really want to help her but i don't have the cash either.
does anyone here know how much a flush and fluid change with filter replacement might cost on this car? Or if it's just a futile thing and i should tell her we need to take it to have it rebuilt.?
This car just now went 100k. 100,098 and Poof!
awesome, i was considering doing this in a few thousand miles, we ended up getting another transmission and installing it, it had 56K on it and seemed good to go but I want it to last so i was thinking after we run it a while I will do that. and then probably again in a year or so if we still have this car.
Its always the same story, people dont change the fluid out of general neglect, then when it gets to the point where they give a shit and (it needs all new fluid) they are scared to flush it, which is the only way to change all the fluid...unless you do many drain/fills which is not a service most quicky lube places offer
Pat, do you think it's a scam from Hyundai when they say, Automatic Transmission Fluid and filter are not needed & they said we don't change them?
Well, my friend's Genesis hits 106K and dealership said the transmission needs to be replaced.
They implied that the transmission fluid was so dirty and extremely low. Yet, they never remove the bolts nor pan out.
How nice, after 100k warranty.
What is your opinions on this scam to all the owners?
buy yer friend a stock crx, the dseries trans will last a long time. got 2 auto wagons w/stock auto trans 25+ years old.
Does it even have a dip stick to measure the fluid level? "Lifetime" fluids are crazy. Don't go for it. Change it at 50-60K or so.
i had a camry with 165k miles on original lifetime trans fluid. shifted like butter, no burnt smell, bright red.
If you are going to keep a car to 300k or 400k miles or more get a transmission flush, and change the filter as well. Same as doing the fluid change. The only difference the fluid change is Leaving about 40% of the old fluid inside the transmission, but you still need to change the filter as well, why would you leave an old filter on with new fluid that's asinine especially when you have the correct part. If your transmission is failing or slipping, then don't do a flush it's only going to make it worse. But if you're transmission is doing well operating normally, you never had a flush or have a Pre-owned vehicle, the previous owner never did a flush. Have it done, you're car can easily go another 100k plus on the same transmission without having a rebuild or new transmission installed. Parts break down prematurely because owners never change the fluid. If you think it's a such thing as a lifetime fluid, don't own a vehicle buy a bicycle. Or electric vehicle, but then eventually the battery over the years will stop operating at full capacity, then you will have to change that.
"Pressure is a result of resistance to fluid flow."
Therefore pressure is required to overcome vicious friction. And when fluid flow is being resisted by the load (turbine) pressure is generated and torque results. Newton's Third Law, basic physics.
"You can have fluid flow but no pressure"
That isn't true under basic Fluid Dynamics. All fluids have a certain viscosity and flow will generate pressure and require pressure to overcome, unless it's an ideal fluid which doesn't exist in real life.
Tell us more about this "vicious friction."
I got Toyota with 250 k I flushed transmission once at 120 k I heard many mechanics don't recommend flush at all every 30 k guy you nuts stop wasting ppl money
Just do a drain and fill. Every 10k or so, I drain out the 2 qts that's supposed to come out when the drain plug is removed and replace it with Toyota factory fluid. Fluid stays nice and pink.
LOL "changing the fluid and filter" won't do anything! There is a reason why there is a filter in there; flushing without replacing the filter is a recipe for disaster as all of the fluid that is fed through the transmission pump must pass through the filter first. Regular fluid AND filter changes would be money well spent.