Two surprises: one, that you didn't remove the hardware like butt plate, etc. from, in particular, the buttstock, before applying the linseed oil. The most porous part of the stock wood is the end grain, and sealing it prevents moisture from infiltrating the stock wood, affecting the wood dimensionally and thereby the bedding, during excursions of humidity. Two, that you didn't dampen and steam the wood to remove the smaller dents (not the deep ones) from the wood before applying the linseed oil, to smooth out the stock a bit. Doing so raises the grain a little, requiring a light pass with steel wool or fine sandpaper to remove the "whiskers" that rise, but the resulting smoothness of the wood and sealing of the grain is superior. Using a stiff toothbrush to work the finish remover into the cartouche impressions and deeper dents also helps even out the coloration. I agree that fine steel wool does a very good job of removing light surface rust from the barrel and action, etc., as well as stuck-on or dried oil and other schmutz (technical term) from the gunmetal. What it doesn't do a good job of is leaving behind fine hairs of steel wool that break off from the pad as they catch on small burrs and irregularities on the gunmetal. That leads to two things: one, the steel wool, not being protected by any anti-corrosion treatment, then begins to rust on its own and gives rise to localized rust spots that affect the underlying gunmetal. Two, the steel wool "hairs", even if swathed in oil and protected from contact with the atmosphere, will start a galvanic corrosion cycle with the gun metal. It's not necessary for it to be exposed to oxygen for this to happen - only that the two metals are at different locations on the electromotive scale, which different steel alloys are. It is thus preferable to use a non-metallic abrasive pad to "polish" off the rust and dirt so as not to leave behind metallic contaminants on, for example, the barrel or underside of the receiver, where corrosion will be hidden from view and not attended to in routine cleaning. Abrasive sponge pads (fine) work well for such polishing and surface rust removal. Note that deep rust pits, which harbor oxidized metal well below the surface, are not only unsightly, but also lead to stress risers (dimensional changes) that weaken the metal. These pits will continue to deepen if left alone. It's tempting to drill them out, but that defaces the gun. A better solution is to use a reducing agent to chemically remove the oxygen from the iron. There are many such tarnish removers on the market. A small hypodermic of the sort used for fine oiling, filled with a solution of, for example, Tarn-X, can be used to fill the pit, and allowed to work for several minutes as it displaces the oxygen atoms from the rust, leaving behind elemental iron. The solution can then be blotted up and the last bit displaced by a squirt of WD-40 or some such water displacement oil, then followed with a heavier oil or even light grease to fill the pocket and stop the oxidation in its tracks. These famous old honorable relics deserve our attention and curation to the best of our abilities. I hope the above is seen as an honest attempt to help out your viewers in this regard. Interesting video to watch. Thank you for your efforts!
Thank you very much for your detailed reply; you raise some very good points and I appreciate the opportunity to do things better. I admit that the effort to get the rifle ready for 11 November precluded the deeply detailed work I could otherwise have done. I’ve since gone back and rectified various issues and will incorporate your feedback into further work. In relation to the wood finishing, it honestly didn’t occur to me to remove the buttplate and seal/oil the end grain. I live in a pretty dry area, and my storage has dessicant bags for further moisture control. Your point is very good and I’ll do the end this weekend. I’ve read about steaming the wood but I’ve never tried it in practice. We were OK with leaving the dings as they were, but I see that the steaming process would indeed be worthwhile. I’ll keep it in mind for future plans. You also raise an excellent point about steel wool and gunmetal. Being aware of dissimilar metal corrosion from my time mucking around with old aeroplanes, I generally either do the scrubbing of parts in a bucket or tub, smaller parts in the red container featured, and the barreled action in a longer tub. I follow it with a really good rinse with appropriate cleaner/solvent and a proper wipedown. But you’re absolutely spot-on in relation to using steel wool, and I’ll return to using the non-metallic scouring pads I’d used in the past. I also gratefully receive your advice about the treatment of deeper corrosion. I think it’s always important to be open to constructive suggestions, so I’m grateful that you took the time to share your thoughts and advice. All the best.
Well done on the Beaufort cockpit. I'm a Tiger Moth tragic, persuaded my local aero club, RNAC, to let me learn ab-initio on their Tiger, subsequently bought a share in one. I'm 72 now, but have around 1000 Tiger hours, plus a bit on Chipmunk, Auster and Winjeel, and assorted flat-engine types. I still fly a mate's Tiger, he says it provides him with light amusement! You're right, it IS good fun!
That’s outstanding, a nice few classic entries in the logbook. Coincidentally, I found a few photos from the late 90s, during the static restoration of our museum’s Tiger. I painted the roundels, fin flashes, and serials. Being A17-377, I didn’t have to worry about too many rounded digits! Twenty five years on, I can still remember where a lot of the various castings and brackets go. All the best, keep flying and smiling!
Always a good day when the green slug uploads. By the way, did you ever finish that video showing the interchangeable magazines on the Enfield carbine? I would be interested to see that. Thanks!
Yes, I couldn’t help myself. I ended up unscrewing the rear sight protector and giving it a clean, but along with most of the metal cleaning, I forgot to film it. Thank you for the reminder.
Thanks for the support, it’s appreciated. There are no specific Light Horse markings found on the rifle, but it was owned by a man who served in the inter-war Light Horse militia. I’m thinking he may have owned it in the 1950s, but have no way of being sure. I own a Long Lee rifle with Light Horse markings on the butt, but this one doesn’t have any.
I’ve used BLO more than RLO and generally found that the shorter drying time of BLO has been a real convenience. We only had a few days to get this one done, so I went with BLO. I added about 20% turps into the oil used for one of the coats and it certainly made the application easier. So, generally speaking, I’m more comfortable with BLO, but I’m going to try RLO in a container large enough to soak the timber, as was done originally, to see how that turns out. It could be a video topic.
I do have a set of hollow-ground screwdrivers coming to replace the last set I had, which I lent to someone and never saw again. I was too impatient to wait for them, and ensured that none of the slippage caused damage.
Yes, I’ve been mucking around with aircraft since I was a teenager in the 80s. Mainly with the Moorabbin Air Museum in Melbourne, which has a large and interesting collection. And I’m slowly progressing on a Beaufort cockpit project. Good fun!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Seeing one taken apart to this extent it's plain to see how well made they were made.
Two surprises: one, that you didn't remove the hardware like butt plate, etc. from, in particular, the buttstock, before applying the linseed oil. The most porous part of the stock wood is the end grain, and sealing it prevents moisture from infiltrating the stock wood, affecting the wood dimensionally and thereby the bedding, during excursions of humidity. Two, that you didn't dampen and steam the wood to remove the smaller dents (not the deep ones) from the wood before applying the linseed oil, to smooth out the stock a bit. Doing so raises the grain a little, requiring a light pass with steel wool or fine sandpaper to remove the "whiskers" that rise, but the resulting smoothness of the wood and sealing of the grain is superior. Using a stiff toothbrush to work the finish remover into the cartouche impressions and deeper dents also helps even out the coloration.
I agree that fine steel wool does a very good job of removing light surface rust from the barrel and action, etc., as well as stuck-on or dried oil and other schmutz (technical term) from the gunmetal. What it doesn't do a good job of is leaving behind fine hairs of steel wool that break off from the pad as they catch on small burrs and irregularities on the gunmetal. That leads to two things: one, the steel wool, not being protected by any anti-corrosion treatment, then begins to rust on its own and gives rise to localized rust spots that affect the underlying gunmetal. Two, the steel wool "hairs", even if swathed in oil and protected from contact with the atmosphere, will start a galvanic corrosion cycle with the gun metal. It's not necessary for it to be exposed to oxygen for this to happen - only that the two metals are at different locations on the electromotive scale, which different steel alloys are. It is thus preferable to use a non-metallic abrasive pad to "polish" off the rust and dirt so as not to leave behind metallic contaminants on, for example, the barrel or underside of the receiver, where corrosion will be hidden from view and not attended to in routine cleaning. Abrasive sponge pads (fine) work well for such polishing and surface rust removal.
Note that deep rust pits, which harbor oxidized metal well below the surface, are not only unsightly, but also lead to stress risers (dimensional changes) that weaken the metal. These pits will continue to deepen if left alone. It's tempting to drill them out, but that defaces the gun. A better solution is to use a reducing agent to chemically remove the oxygen from the iron. There are many such tarnish removers on the market. A small hypodermic of the sort used for fine oiling, filled with a solution of, for example, Tarn-X, can be used to fill the pit, and allowed to work for several minutes as it displaces the oxygen atoms from the rust, leaving behind elemental iron. The solution can then be blotted up and the last bit displaced by a squirt of WD-40 or some such water displacement oil, then followed with a heavier oil or even light grease to fill the pocket and stop the oxidation in its tracks.
These famous old honorable relics deserve our attention and curation to the best of our abilities. I hope the above is seen as an honest attempt to help out your viewers in this regard. Interesting video to watch. Thank you for your efforts!
Thank you very much for your detailed reply; you raise some very good points and I appreciate the opportunity to do things better. I admit that the effort to get the rifle ready for 11 November precluded the deeply detailed work I could otherwise have done. I’ve since gone back and rectified various issues and will incorporate your feedback into further work.
In relation to the wood finishing, it honestly didn’t occur to me to remove the buttplate and seal/oil the end grain. I live in a pretty dry area, and my storage has dessicant bags for further moisture control. Your point is very good and I’ll do the end this weekend. I’ve read about steaming the wood but I’ve never tried it in practice. We were OK with leaving the dings as they were, but I see that the steaming process would indeed be worthwhile. I’ll keep it in mind for future plans.
You also raise an excellent point about steel wool and gunmetal. Being aware of dissimilar metal corrosion from my time mucking around with old aeroplanes, I generally either do the scrubbing of parts in a bucket or tub, smaller parts in the red container featured, and the barreled action in a longer tub. I follow it with a really good rinse with appropriate cleaner/solvent and a proper wipedown. But you’re absolutely spot-on in relation to using steel wool, and I’ll return to using the non-metallic scouring pads I’d used in the past. I also gratefully receive your advice about the treatment of deeper corrosion.
I think it’s always important to be open to constructive suggestions, so I’m grateful that you took the time to share your thoughts and advice. All the best.
Well done on the Beaufort cockpit. I'm a Tiger Moth tragic, persuaded my local aero club, RNAC, to let me learn ab-initio on their Tiger, subsequently bought a share in one. I'm 72 now, but have around 1000 Tiger hours, plus a bit on Chipmunk, Auster and Winjeel, and assorted flat-engine types. I still fly a mate's Tiger, he says it provides him with light amusement! You're right, it IS good fun!
That’s outstanding, a nice few classic entries in the logbook. Coincidentally, I found a few photos from the late 90s, during the static restoration of our museum’s Tiger. I painted the roundels, fin flashes, and serials. Being A17-377, I didn’t have to worry about too many rounded digits! Twenty five years on, I can still remember where a lot of the various castings and brackets go. All the best, keep flying and smiling!
Looks good. Well done!
Cheers, I’m really happy with how the rifle turned out.
Always a good day when the green slug uploads. By the way, did you ever finish that video showing the interchangeable magazines on the Enfield carbine? I would be interested to see that. Thanks!
Cheers, I have the raw footage, I’ll aim to get it together this week. I appreciate suggestions for new videos and I’ll get this one done.
@@JollyGreenSlugg Brilliant! thanks
Great job as always brother. And well represented at Remembrance Day
Thanks so much, mate. It was a privilege to be involved, especially with Oscar’s rifle.
Nice job ! One area that I find is worth checking for corrosion (as well), is the bottom section of the rear sight protector.
Yes, I couldn’t help myself. I ended up unscrewing the rear sight protector and giving it a clean, but along with most of the metal cleaning, I forgot to film it. Thank you for the reminder.
Excellent
Cheers!
Bought one of these for $75 out of Canada. It had a composite, sporterized stock. Hunted moose in Alaska with it for years
Good stuff, there’s a great deal of history involved with the post-service use of these rifles. Glad it put food on the table. Cheers!
Damn fine job, Mite..
Thanks very much, I’m glad it was worth a watch.
Marvelous! Liked and subscribed. Question, was this a Light Horse rifle?
Thanks for the support, it’s appreciated. There are no specific Light Horse markings found on the rifle, but it was owned by a man who served in the inter-war Light Horse militia. I’m thinking he may have owned it in the 1950s, but have no way of being sure. I own a Long Lee rifle with Light Horse markings on the butt, but this one doesn’t have any.
Good one. Cheers
I had fun, thanks for watching.
Vegemite returns.
The stuff of legends!
Do you have a preference for raw versus boiled linseed oil? Also, do you add turpentine?
I’ve used BLO more than RLO and generally found that the shorter drying time of BLO has been a real convenience. We only had a few days to get this one done, so I went with BLO. I added about 20% turps into the oil used for one of the coats and it certainly made the application easier. So, generally speaking, I’m more comfortable with BLO, but I’m going to try RLO in a container large enough to soak the timber, as was done originally, to see how that turns out. It could be a video topic.
Wow!!! I was right!!! That IS a jar of Vegemite at the top of the frame!!!
The Aussie spread of excellence!
Good job but couldn't you find a decent screwdriver to prevent all the slip overs you did on those old original screw heads ??
I do have a set of hollow-ground screwdrivers coming to replace the last set I had, which I lent to someone and never saw again. I was too impatient to wait for them, and ensured that none of the slippage caused damage.
When you say old aeroplanes....??
Yes, I’ve been mucking around with aircraft since I was a teenager in the 80s. Mainly with the Moorabbin Air Museum in Melbourne, which has a large and interesting collection. And I’m slowly progressing on a Beaufort cockpit project. Good fun!
Nice old girl, there’s one screw in wrong😮
Sometimes I think I’m doing well to have just the one in wrong! You’re spot-on of course, I’ve rectified it since. Cheers.
Some bloke bugger those draws.
They were repairable, thankfully.