I've installed many T-nuts and although I never had a prong bend over I like this process, especially the shallow forstner hole to allow the T-nut to fit flush with the work. Thumbs up!
I've been looking for a solution to Masterpak's Closure Plates (for creating an Art Crate - threading a bolt to a fixed plate to join 2 panels, that could allow for multiple assembly/disassembly without ruining the wood) and stumbled upon a ladder in my local DIY store about an hour ago that had this 4 pronged Tee nut fixing, which is essentially a much cheaper solution and without having to import. I didn't even know what the fixing was called until I googled the image and will be using your great technique of pre-drilling mounting holes so that the tee nut sits flush with perfect alignment. Smooth and professional. Great job!
wow something so simple, I have been struggling with this for days. Thank you for showing me how. I just couldn't get why I would hammer it in then the screw would pull it out
Jeff, that is a much better and neater looking T-nut install done that way. I tend to use threaded inserts over T-nuts as much as possible. However when I need to use a T-nuts, as long as I have enough material thickness to work with, I'll use your forstner bit counter sunk method. Excellent tip!
Good job! Just what I needed to know on HOW to install legs on my LaZboy leather tub chair I bought valued at $400 that I picked up for $25 at a thrift store last year, I believe it was previously a chair rocker, but am turning it into a nice side chair for my home theater system. Thanks Jeff Fischer, I like your method, very smooth.
That is the cleanest method I've ever seen. I'll certainly try it out on my next project. Is it necessary to over-drill the t-nut side the depth of the T-nut, in order to have it seat more cleanly/easily or is it suppose be that tight? I'm using 5/16" bolts on my current project. I was just about to use a hammer. Watching your video reminded me to draw the T-nut in. And your tip of drilling for the points and using Forstner Bit is great. thanks. good camera & sound keep up the good work!
Jim, thanks for kind words and no it is not necessary to over drill/countersink the t-nut. I just like the flush look and if you are doing any work on that side of the project the surface is clean and easier to work with, especially if you are gluing wood on that side to conceal the nut.
Thanks for this neat tip; I see that your substrate is plywood. Did you use a Forstner bit to drill the recess for the T nut? Also, what size hole do you pre-drill for the actual shaft of the nut- do you drill it to the size of the t-nut dimensions (e.g, would you drill a 1/4" hole for a 1/4"-20 t-nut for example), or do you use something larger? Thanks for your reply
Yes I do use a 3/4 Forstner bit and you can use a 5/16 twist bit for the through hole but 19/64 works better. 1/16 inch bit for the pilot holes. Thanks for watching.
Great, simple, and straightforward video! How can I install a tee nut without drilling a hole through to the other side of the wood? I am making a pochade painting box and need a tee nut so I can mount it on a tripod. I need to install the tee nut into a thick, wood cutting board and would rather not drill the hole all the way through.
You would have to use a different style of nut but if you use this style then you would have to counter sink it deeper and the use a 1 inch plug on the "show" side. Thanks for watching.
I think one of the reasons the prongs bend is to lock the t nut into the hole. I haven't had any trouble in soft wood and yes, in hard wood it is a problem. I would say to make the holes a lot smaller so the prongs will still go in smoothly but still grip to hold the t nut in place.
Standard drill bit for the through hole (smaller) and a forstner bit (larger) for the countersunk part. Drill the larger hole first. Thanks for watching.
I would have used a hammer too. Nice approach you have to pull the tee nut into the wood, but what if you can't access the other end? I want to use a steel bolt into a very deep piece of timber. Any ideas?
Then you are putting in the nut the wrong way. It will pull out. The method still works in your case but you are going to be using the nut from the wrong side. Drill a through hole and a deeper counter sink, then plug it from the "show" side. You will have plenty of thread to pull your work together. Thanks for watching.
@@JeffFischer1 Alright, so I gather the ideal use for this type of nut is when you want a flush nut but there is no depth for a counter sinking - like the ply boards in your video?
@@thijsvanderhorst8745 No, you can use it in any project where you want a removable mechanical connection, but the flat of the nut needs to be on the opposite side of where your bolt is coming from. I have used them this way and covered the flange (flat side) with a 3/4 inch plug. Flush that to the surface and you have a virtual invisible t-nut. Hope that makes sense.
nice tip but you did not drill a 1/4" hole for the prongs. I used one of the smallest its I could use. Am about to see how it goes, using pine. I will try a washer and hope my pine doesn't get smushed. Thanks.
@@JeffFischer1 Oh i see, DEPTH. I thought you meant diameter, ok. Maybe i replaced what you said with what i was thinking you were talking about. sorry.
The tnunts I put into the inside of a box yesterday, I could not get the drill in to dig out a 1/8" depth to submerge the widest part of the nut. I also didn't want to crush the wood which I was starting to do. It will be on a bike so I am concerned vibration might loosen it. Guess I just have to keep the bolt in it or glue it?
@@alutious Yeah it pays to think ahead and pre-drill for them. You could be some epoxy on the flat pronged side of the nut and then pull it in and it probably will never come out. Just don't use to much to avoid squeeze out into your bolt. Unless you have a lock washer on that bolt it could still rattle out. Not sure if that is a viable option unless you are using a fender washer on that side. Hope that helps/makes sense.
I've installed many T-nuts and although I never had a prong bend over I like this process, especially the shallow forstner hole to allow the T-nut to fit flush with the work. Thumbs up!
Thanks James, If I had never had a problem, I would have never used this method. Thanks for watching as well.
I like how you countersunk it as well as the drilling tip. Video is to the point. Nice!
Thanks.
Excellent! i have been wondering how to use these things as I am building a light stand and this is perfect. thanks!
You're welcome and good luck with your build.
Great tip Jeff...wish I had seen this two days ago when I used a hammer to install mine!
Thanks Brian, give a try next time and thanks for watching.
I was about to do the same thing, saw them advertised as ‘drive in nuts’ and assumed you beat them home with a large mallet 😮
That's a great tip...Thanks for posting !
Thank you and thanks for watching.
I've been looking for a solution to Masterpak's Closure Plates (for creating an Art Crate - threading a bolt to a fixed plate to join 2 panels, that could allow for multiple assembly/disassembly without ruining the wood) and stumbled upon a ladder in my local DIY store about an hour ago that had this 4 pronged Tee nut fixing, which is essentially a much cheaper solution and without having to import. I didn't even know what the fixing was called until I googled the image and will be using your great technique of pre-drilling mounting holes so that the tee nut sits flush with perfect alignment. Smooth and professional. Great job!
Thank you Derrick!
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
wow something so simple, I have been struggling with this for days. Thank you for showing me how. I just couldn't get why I would hammer it in then the screw would pull it out
Thanks Jeanette.
Great footage! Thank you for sharing it
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Jeff, that is a much better and neater looking T-nut install done that way. I tend to use threaded inserts over T-nuts as much as possible. However when I need to use a T-nuts, as long as I have enough material thickness to work with, I'll use your forstner bit counter sunk method. Excellent tip!
Thanks and thanks for watching.
Great tip Jeff. Thanks :)
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Good job! Just what I needed to know on HOW to install legs on my LaZboy leather tub chair I bought valued at $400 that I picked up for $25 at a thrift store last year, I believe it was previously a chair rocker, but am turning it into a nice side chair for my home theater system.
Thanks Jeff Fischer, I like your method, very smooth.
Thanks Pat.
Just finished project last night thanks to you!
Glad to hear, sounds like everything went well.
Beautiful work! So glad to see this before I try it!
Thanks. Good luck with your project.
@@JeffFischer1 👍🏼👍🏼 will be seen in my bus restoration videos 😁👍🏼
@@MicBergsma Thank you!
Your way is the only way. Thanks for sharing it with the world
Well it is one way and I have had nothing but success with it. I appreciate your kind words. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Nice video thumbs up on your syle of instaling t nuts
Thank you and thanks for watching/commenting.
Excellent way... Ineed to use these soon... Thanks.
Thanks Jay. Thanks for watching as well.
Good method. Thank you.
Thanks David!
Big help, thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for stopping by.
The other advantage I noticed is that there is no tear out from forcing the the points into the material.
Nice tip.
Thanks.
Thanks for watching.
So satisfying to watch.
Thank you!
That is the cleanest method I've ever seen. I'll certainly try it out on my next project. Is it necessary to over-drill the t-nut side the depth of the T-nut, in order to have it seat more cleanly/easily or is it suppose be that tight? I'm using 5/16" bolts on my current project. I was just about to use a hammer. Watching your video reminded me to draw the T-nut in. And your tip of drilling for the points and using Forstner Bit is great. thanks. good camera & sound keep up the good work!
Jim, thanks for kind words and no it is not necessary to over drill/countersink the t-nut. I just like the flush look and if you are doing any work on that side of the project the surface is clean and easier to work with, especially if you are gluing wood on that side to conceal the nut.
Thanks for this neat tip; I see that your substrate is plywood. Did you use a Forstner bit to drill the recess for the T nut? Also, what size hole do you pre-drill for the actual shaft of the nut- do you drill it to the size of the t-nut dimensions (e.g, would you drill a 1/4" hole for a 1/4"-20 t-nut for example), or do you use something larger? Thanks for your reply
Yes I do use a 3/4 Forstner bit and you can use a 5/16 twist bit for the through hole but 19/64 works better. 1/16 inch bit for the pilot holes. Thanks for watching.
Great, simple, and straightforward video! How can I install a tee nut without drilling a hole through to the other side of the wood? I am making a pochade painting box and need a tee nut so I can mount it on a tripod. I need to install the tee nut into a thick, wood cutting board and would rather not drill the hole all the way through.
You would have to use a different style of nut but if you use this style then you would have to counter sink it deeper and the use a 1 inch plug on the "show" side. Thanks for watching.
great idea
Thanks for watching and the kind words.
nice, very nice. I would do the same on my next project. Thanks
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Excellent, thanks
Thanks Gary!
Thx for the vid. Do you think punching holes with an awl would be enough to mimic those mini drilled holes?
That's a great idea! It would also speed things up a little. Thanks for watching and next time I will use your idea.
I think one of the reasons the prongs bend is to lock the t nut into the hole. I haven't had any trouble in soft wood and yes, in hard wood it is a problem. I would say to make the holes a lot smaller so the prongs will still go in smoothly but still grip to hold the t nut in place.
I have not had one fall out using this method but thanks for the comment and for watching.
Thanks, what tool did you use to make a hole on the wood for T nut?
Standard drill bit for the through hole (smaller) and a forstner bit (larger) for the countersunk part. Drill the larger hole first. Thanks for watching.
Nice vid. What sort of bit did you use to make the counter sink?
Forstner bit, thanks for watching.
Brilliant.
Thanks but let's not get carried away! lol
Simple but smart!
Thanks Stelios.
I would have used a hammer too. Nice approach you have to pull the tee nut into the wood, but what if you can't access the other end? I want to use a steel bolt into a very deep piece of timber. Any ideas?
Then you are putting in the nut the wrong way. It will pull out. The method still works in your case but you are going to be using the nut from the wrong side. Drill a through hole and a deeper counter sink, then plug it from the "show" side. You will have plenty of thread to pull your work together. Thanks for watching.
@@JeffFischer1 Alright, so I gather the ideal use for this type of nut is when you want a flush nut but there is no depth for a counter sinking - like the ply boards in your video?
@@thijsvanderhorst8745 No, you can use it in any project where you want a removable mechanical connection, but the flat of the nut needs to be on the opposite side of where your bolt is coming from. I have used them this way and covered the flange (flat side) with a 3/4 inch plug. Flush that to the surface and you have a virtual invisible t-nut. Hope that makes sense.
what kind of board was it and how thick?
20 mm baltic birch ply.
a like for the perfect camera position
Thanks for that and for watching.
check the link below, fast automatic t-nut machine, material is beech
nice tip but you did not drill a 1/4" hole for the prongs. I used one of the smallest its I could use. Am about to see how it goes, using pine. I will try a washer and hope my pine doesn't get smushed. Thanks.
Not sure what you mean by drilling a 1/4 inch hole. I drill a small hole (meaning a small diameter) to a depth of a 1/4 inch. Thanks for watching.
@@JeffFischer1 Oh i see, DEPTH. I thought you meant diameter, ok. Maybe i replaced what you said with what i was thinking you were talking about. sorry.
@@alutious No problem, my wife tells me I do that all the time.
The tnunts I put into the inside of a box yesterday, I could not get the drill in to dig out a 1/8" depth to submerge the widest part of the nut. I also didn't want to crush the wood which I was starting to do. It will be on a bike so I am concerned vibration might loosen it. Guess I just have to keep the bolt in it or glue it?
@@alutious Yeah it pays to think ahead and pre-drill for them. You could be some epoxy on the flat pronged side of the nut and then pull it in and it probably will never come out. Just don't use to much to avoid squeeze out into your bolt. Unless you have a lock washer on that bolt it could still rattle out. Not sure if that is a viable option unless you are using a fender washer on that side. Hope that helps/makes sense.
Why are all the other t nut installation video's 6 plus minutes long? This is all yo need. Thanx.
Thanks for the kind words and for watching.
great tip
thanks
Thanks Karen.
Installing t's.......nuts!!!!
Thanks Jake! What are you wearing?
Khakis. Also, this video is.....nuts.
LOL
My bad I got the answer
🤔wood split🤦♂️
Thanks for watching, I think?!