I am having that problem at this moment with my baby ( RRS -2008). I love my truck so much and for sure this video gave me a better idea of what is going on with the overheating issue. Loved it. Thank you
I replaced mine last year, but wish I had your video when I did! The checking and rechecking of the coolant level and the hose replacement order were great tips that none of the other videos mentioned.
This is the BEST "how to" video on UA-cam! You are awesome and your description is very precise and clear. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. FYI the Amazon link for the thermostat doesn't work....greetings from Canada :)
Thanks I glad you found it useful. Hmmm I think the links act up when they are opened in other countries, let me see what I can do, thanks for letting me know!
@@HazyJay Don't worry about it, I ordered the whole thermostat housing assembly from Atlantic British, it will be everything I need because it comes with the temperature sensor as well. I'm not very clear on the bleeding procedure though, I was planning to use the bleeding valve on the expansion tank. Any thoughts? or advice how to do it properly? Thanks!
@@rrshse6704 Soooo bleeding the cooling system is kind of a subject of contention for whatever reason. I filled the tank to the full mark, ran the engine until the thermostat opened (temp gauge at it's typical position showing the engine is operating temp), then turned the car off, let it cool, then filled again to the cold line. I would check it over the next few days and fill it as needed, I only filled it for about 1 day and I never needed to fill it again and my engine runs at the correct temp. That being said, the L320 manual has a different procedure that I will transcribe below if you want to follow that: 1. Remove the coolant expansion tank cap 2. Loosen the coolant expansion tank bleed screw 3. Add coolant to the expansion tank as required, until the upper level mark is achieved 4. Set the heating system to MAX heat, the blower motor to MAX speed, and the air distribution to the instrument panel registers 5. Loosen the coolant bleed screw adjacent to the charge air cooler 6. Turn the ignition key to position 2 (this should run the electric coolant pump), but do not start the engine 7. When coolant runs from the bleed point bubble-free, tighten the bleed screw 8. Start the engine and allow to idle 9. When coolant runs from the expansion tank bleed point bubble-free, tighten the bleed screw 10. Top-up the expansion tank to the upper level mark 11. Increase engine speed to 2,000 RPM and maintain until no air is seen returning to the expansion tank 12. Switch the engine off and allow to cool 13. Fill the coolant expansion tank to the MAX mark
@@HazyJay I filled the expansion tank until the coolant was coming off the bleed screw, (overflowing), the I closed it . I sucked out some coolant from the return tank with a turkey baster until it reached the upper fill level. Then. with the tank cap open, I ran the engine until hot with the blower fan at high speed. However I could see just a few bubbles percolating on the return hose, just under the bleed screw ( little tank). I was so tempted to unscrew it and let the air out , but I was afraid that it would be pressurized and would blow hot coolant and screw up the whole procedure. The truck run fine by the way and hot air comes out and no issues with the temp gauge. I'll check the coolant level tomorrow morning and see... Thanks again!
@@rrshse6704 Sounds like it worked, yeah if you look online people have a few ways of doing it. I've tried the way the workshop manual says and it seemed to work as good as just filling it intermittently during the week, so whatever works haha.
Awesome!!!!!!!......... My car is not overheating but does smoke from near the right side of the battery in the same direction of the center windshield stereo speaker. smells like coolant leaked onto the motor
I just had my replaced due to very small leak from the housing. Was thinking to try stop leak liquid but after thinking twice i took it to mechanic. They charged me for 3.1 hours. I asked for the old part, took it home and opened to see out of curiosity. The rubber seal has already kind of melted (main reason for the leak). A plastic round plastic part inside the housing which is touching the spring was also broken.
@@metromotel I'm not sure, but I know fast temperature changes cause most materials to become brittle, you'd expect more drastic temp changes in ice cold environments where you're going from 32F to like 200F as opposed to 100F to 200F
Hazy, why did you only buy the small part instead of the entire housing? Mine failed, so I bought a new one and it failed after 4 months, so I'm buying a new one from Atlantic British. But its much bigger than just the thermostat part?
The rest of the housing was good, and to replace the housing is much more work and requires removal of multiple components. Because of that I just replaced the thermostat part.
That would be a mistake, the temp gauge should measure the coolant temperature. The oil pressure is important and the coolant temp is important, less so the oil temp and coolant pressure.
Someone asked if you need to exchange the metal/spring hardware once you get a new thermostat. You do not need to exchange the metal/spring thermostat parts when you get a new thermostat, the new housing should come with the thermostat hardware already installed. The tutorial in the video is only for if your hardware comes loose and you need to reinstall it.
Hazy, i have another question, i accidentally bought a cheap thermostat from amazon and four months later it has failed, leaking at the O ring right on top. So im gonna try and replace entire housing AND the expansion tank at the same time. Any suggestions on what order to do it, what tools i need? Do i have to remove throttle body first? I have thermostat, coolant tank, 6 plastic hose clamps so i dont loose much fluid and hose clam pliers for that bottom clamp on tank. Any tips will be appreciated! 👍
The hardest part of replacing the entire housing is reaching the bolts that hold it in place, make sure you have extensions for your sockets. Otherwise it's just removing parts top down until you can access the housing. If I remember correctly you do need to remove the throttle body but that's just 4 bolts holding it in place that are pretty easy to reach.
Replaced headgaskets on my 4.2 SC. Mechanic said that they blew. Started up the car and the initial problem is still there , the water reservoir tank starts bubbling over when the car gets to running temperature while its idling. Replace thermostat , replaced waterpump, not sure what else too replace.? Mechinac said , I should buy a new engine.🙄.... and suggestions.?
Make sure the throttle body (which is nearby) is connected correctly (the wire harness may have gotten wet) and lines are all attached to it. The cooling system shouldn't have much to do with misfires when the engine is cold since the thermostat is closed anyway to let the engine warm up.
Potentially the water pump, low coolant levels, air lock. I would first check coolant level, and if it's normal, perform a coolant bleed procedure to ensure the air is out of the system. You should see trickling of coolant into the reservoir when the car is running, IF NOT, the water pump is likely bad.
My temperature gauge is not reaching operating temperature it's going to about a quarter up and not halfway like it usually did. Which leads me to believe that my thermostat is stuck in the open position. Also every few days or maybe once a week I'll have a low coolant show up in my dashboard. Not sure if that's the case but would you think it's a thermostat stuck open?
I would try replacing the thermostat and seeing if that fixed your issue given it's pretty straightforward and would cause failure to reach operating temp. Otherwise you may have a leak further down like in the housing or one of the lines.
In theory it would just be less efficient because it takes longer to heat up. BUT I tried that (because I didn't want the broken plastic/metal getting in the system) and it overheated... I'm not certain why.
It's possible the fan clutch is ruined and will need to be replaced. When the engine is cold you should be able to freely spin the radiator fan, if not, the clutch will need replacement.
I am having that problem at this moment with my baby ( RRS -2008). I love my truck so much and for sure this video gave me a better idea of what is going on with the overheating issue. Loved it. Thank you
Thank you! I had the same problem and replaced it myself following your video. You explained this so easily.
I had the same problem with my 2006 LR3 HSE ...changed T'sat ...problem fixed!...Excellent videos
I replaced mine last year, but wish I had your video when I did! The checking and rechecking of the coolant level and the hose replacement order were great tips that none of the other videos mentioned.
This is the BEST "how to" video on UA-cam! You are awesome and your description is very precise and clear. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. FYI the Amazon link for the thermostat doesn't work....greetings from Canada :)
Thanks I glad you found it useful. Hmmm I think the links act up when they are opened in other countries, let me see what I can do, thanks for letting me know!
@@HazyJay Don't worry about it, I ordered the whole thermostat housing assembly from Atlantic British, it will be everything I need because it comes with the temperature sensor as well. I'm not very clear on the bleeding procedure though, I was planning to use the bleeding valve on the expansion tank. Any thoughts? or advice how to do it properly? Thanks!
@@rrshse6704 Soooo bleeding the cooling system is kind of a subject of contention for whatever reason. I filled the tank to the full mark, ran the engine until the thermostat opened (temp gauge at it's typical position showing the engine is operating temp), then turned the car off, let it cool, then filled again to the cold line. I would check it over the next few days and fill it as needed, I only filled it for about 1 day and I never needed to fill it again and my engine runs at the correct temp.
That being said, the L320 manual has a different procedure that I will transcribe below if you want to follow that:
1. Remove the coolant expansion tank cap
2. Loosen the coolant expansion tank bleed screw
3. Add coolant to the expansion tank as required, until the upper level mark is achieved
4. Set the heating system to MAX heat, the blower motor to MAX speed, and the air distribution to the instrument panel registers
5. Loosen the coolant bleed screw adjacent to the charge air cooler
6. Turn the ignition key to position 2 (this should run the electric coolant pump), but do not start the engine
7. When coolant runs from the bleed point bubble-free, tighten the bleed screw
8. Start the engine and allow to idle
9. When coolant runs from the expansion tank bleed point bubble-free, tighten the bleed screw
10. Top-up the expansion tank to the upper level mark
11. Increase engine speed to 2,000 RPM and maintain until no air is seen returning to the expansion tank
12. Switch the engine off and allow to cool
13. Fill the coolant expansion tank to the MAX mark
@@HazyJay I filled the expansion tank until the coolant was coming off the bleed screw, (overflowing), the I closed it . I sucked out some coolant from the return tank with a turkey baster until it reached the upper fill level. Then. with the tank cap open, I ran the engine until hot with the blower fan at high speed. However I could see just a few bubbles percolating on the return hose, just under the bleed screw ( little tank). I was so tempted to unscrew it and let the air out , but I was afraid that it would be pressurized and would blow hot coolant and screw up the whole procedure. The truck run fine by the way and hot air comes out and no issues with the temp gauge. I'll check the coolant level tomorrow morning and see...
Thanks again!
@@rrshse6704 Sounds like it worked, yeah if you look online people have a few ways of doing it. I've tried the way the workshop manual says and it seemed to work as good as just filling it intermittently during the week, so whatever works haha.
Awesome!!!!!!!......... My car is not overheating but does smoke from near the right side of the battery in the same direction of the center windshield stereo speaker. smells like coolant leaked onto the motor
the best videoo🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Can u do a video on a radiator replacement and water pump vid
Thanks!!
I hope you can put a translation into Arabic because your clips are useful. Thank you very much.
Hello ! you post extremely interesting videos that i find to be the best on UA-cam. Is it possible to contact you for a certain issue i am facing ?
What can other coz to heating up And what will happen if you remove thermostat from range Rover sport HSE 2009
I just had my replaced due to very small leak from the housing. Was thinking to try stop leak liquid but after thinking twice i took it to mechanic.
They charged me for 3.1 hours. I asked for the old part, took it home and opened to see out of curiosity.
The rubber seal has already kind of melted (main reason for the leak). A plastic round plastic part inside the housing which is touching the spring was also broken.
The round plastic bit that touches the spring breaks ALOT, it's a weakness of these thermostats. I wish that part was made of metal.
mine is 2013 sport @135000km and I live in mild climate. I wonder if they fail a lot earlier in hot countries?? @@HazyJay
@@metromotel I'm not sure, but I know fast temperature changes cause most materials to become brittle, you'd expect more drastic temp changes in ice cold environments where you're going from 32F to like 200F as opposed to 100F to 200F
Thi is so true. This logic could be applied to tyres too.
@@HazyJay
@@metromotel at least I hope that's right, since I live in a hot environment (Houston)
What brand thermostat did you use? I replaced mine but the thermostat still doesn't open
I actually took the thermostat off the full housing, which is this one: amzn.to/3VCe9qO
Hazy, why did you only buy the small part instead of the entire housing? Mine failed, so I bought a new one and it failed after 4 months, so I'm buying a new one from Atlantic British. But its much bigger than just the thermostat part?
The rest of the housing was good, and to replace the housing is much more work and requires removal of multiple components. Because of that I just replaced the thermostat part.
You mention the temp gauge as reading oil temp. Is that accurate? The gauge doesn't read engine coolant temp?
That would be a mistake, the temp gauge should measure the coolant temperature. The oil pressure is important and the coolant temp is important, less so the oil temp and coolant pressure.
Someone asked if you need to exchange the metal/spring hardware once you get a new thermostat. You do not need to exchange the metal/spring thermostat parts when you get a new thermostat, the new housing should come with the thermostat hardware already installed. The tutorial in the video is only for if your hardware comes loose and you need to reinstall it.
Hazy, i have another question, i accidentally bought a cheap thermostat from amazon and four months later it has failed, leaking at the O ring right on top. So im gonna try and replace entire housing AND the expansion tank at the same time. Any suggestions on what order to do it, what tools i need? Do i have to remove throttle body first? I have thermostat, coolant tank, 6 plastic hose clamps so i dont loose much fluid and hose clam pliers for that bottom clamp on tank. Any tips will be appreciated! 👍
The hardest part of replacing the entire housing is reaching the bolts that hold it in place, make sure you have extensions for your sockets. Otherwise it's just removing parts top down until you can access the housing. If I remember correctly you do need to remove the throttle body but that's just 4 bolts holding it in place that are pretty easy to reach.
Replaced headgaskets on my 4.2 SC.
Mechanic said that they blew. Started up the car and the initial problem is still there , the water reservoir tank starts bubbling over when the car gets to running temperature while its idling. Replace thermostat , replaced waterpump, not sure what else too replace.? Mechinac said , I should buy a new engine.🙄.... and suggestions.?
I’m having the same problem
I’m still trying to figure It out
I replaced thermostat and cap and water pump and pretty much the hole coolant assembly
@@georgeceja50ify thanks
@@georgeceja50ify did it work?
Hey Hazy, I replaced the thermostat and coolant tank and now I have misfires on start! When it warms up it stops. Any suggestions? Thanks Haze 👍
Make sure the throttle body (which is nearby) is connected correctly (the wire harness may have gotten wet) and lines are all attached to it. The cooling system shouldn't have much to do with misfires when the engine is cold since the thermostat is closed anyway to let the engine warm up.
I have a 09 lr3 with the 4.4 I believe it is leaking from the thermostat housing
Hey, I have a Land Rover 2007 Lr3 it’s still overheating and I’ve replaced the thermostat housing already. What else could it be?
Potentially the water pump, low coolant levels, air lock. I would first check coolant level, and if it's normal, perform a coolant bleed procedure to ensure the air is out of the system. You should see trickling of coolant into the reservoir when the car is running, IF NOT, the water pump is likely bad.
The thermostat should have a small & a large spring but yours only looked to have the large one?
Ah I see your inset pic showing the small spring lol
My temperature gauge is not reaching operating temperature it's going to about a quarter up and not halfway like it usually did. Which leads me to believe that my thermostat is stuck in the open position. Also every few days or maybe once a week I'll have a low coolant show up in my dashboard. Not sure if that's the case but would you think it's a thermostat stuck open?
I would try replacing the thermostat and seeing if that fixed your issue given it's pretty straightforward and would cause failure to reach operating temp. Otherwise you may have a leak further down like in the housing or one of the lines.
Hi
Will this work for my Range Rover hse 2008 ? Let me know please
The 2008 Range Rover sport is the exact same, the full size will have it's thermostat in a different spot.
What if I take it of completely
In theory it would just be less efficient because it takes longer to heat up. BUT I tried that (because I didn't want the broken plastic/metal getting in the system) and it overheated... I'm not certain why.
Will it work on a 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged?
This thermostat won't fit on the supercharged version, that version has a metal housing and is a little harder to get to (under a few hoses)
I got the supercharged too it’s a pain
Heyy changed thermostat and Water pump and change the belt and still making the fan noise
It's possible the fan clutch is ruined and will need to be replaced. When the engine is cold you should be able to freely spin the radiator fan, if not, the clutch will need replacement.
I changed the thermostat n the housing but i see a crack on my radiator
I keep gett P240b code. I changed the EVap pump it said “high” now it says low circuit....Any thoughts?.Help????
Did u resolve your problem..? Did the evap pump cause overheating?
Ok