I had a 93 fox it also had the GT 40 INTAKE IN IT AND WAS CAMMED AND ALL I HAD TO RUN 2 PCV VALVES TO KEEP IT HAPPY RAN PERFECT AFTER I INSTALLED INE IN DRIVERS SIDE THAT WENT IN TO THE FILL CAP ON VALVE COVER FINALLY HAD TO SELL A COUPLE YEARS LATER TO MANY SPEEDING TICKETS CAR LOOKS GREAT YOU DID A GOOD JOB ON PAINT FOR A IN THE YARD JOB
THE number one thing a fox needs is rear gears. My 88 had 3.73's and was fully capable of verified 12 sec 1/4 times and still got 22mpg when driven in a sane fashion.
@@jonathangautreau2230 Car & Driver 1987. Stone stock GT ran a 14.7. An hour under the hood without changing parts would turn that into a 13.9. LX Coupes were laughably easy to get into the 12's.
@@jonathangautreau2230 Stock is relative. Factory cam, lots of bolt ons from, and drive it like you hate it. I tried to put the full list of things up, but it was to long to get it to post.
CRAIG! I have wanted to tell you this ever since you began the truck rebuild. Glyptal paint the interior of your engine block before you begin assembly. It seals the casting and really aids in getting your oil back to the pan. Old Smokey Yunnick trick, It's the paint used in Alternator windings, but Yunnick found that it sealed his old castings and the smooth texture when dry really helps the oil flow back to the pan. Clean the block with acetone and a brush, then dry it well. Apply it with a brush all over the rough casting areas(cylinder areas on top, block timing chain area, crank webs) you won't be sorry! Wanted to tell you earlier, but you always got the block back quickly, so I was always too late. Watch your vids every time, on the day they come out. Love the Ford guys! I've been one for years, so I wouldn't steer you wrong.
Craig is the kinda guy that claims hes a poor college kid yet he throws 3k at a motor that he blows up with barely 6k miles on it cause he doesn't build them right the first time
You have a low pressure switch that prevents clutch engagement. No refrigerant, no oil circulation, it protects your comp. Just jump the plug until you get some in there, then it will operate normally....
Craig At least you have more than one machine shop to chose from .Where I live we only have one. And at the beginning of 2022 he went way up the prices for everything that they do. Man I miss living in California.
Thanks for this vid! I just finished an hci swap (gt40p, tfs1, explorere upper and lower) and had the same thing, oil under acceleration. Was racking my brain about the source and not looking forward to pulling stuff apart again...lol! I forgot the very screen you mentioned here. Pulled it off the old intake and put it where it belongs. Free solution, cant beat that!
I have closed captioning turned on for youtube. When you fired up the mustang and later with it idling, the CC shows the engine running as "music" LOL! Thanks for sharing.
It’ll still burn oil. Even after changing the screen and pvc valve. Get a catch can from lmr. a company just put one out made for the foxbody. I put one on even after changing everything and drove at least 100 miles I had a spoon full of oil in the can. It really helped my afr it runs even cleaner so it’s worth every penny.
The low pressure switch saves your compressor. If you have a fitting come off on the a/c you can have moisture in the system. Anytime the systems seal is broken you really should recover the refrigerant and evacuate the system (hook it to the vacuum pump again) because if their is any moisture in the system it will cause issues. I've worked with my Dad a retired licensed refrigeration mechanic that has worked on Fords in the 60s, semi truck diesel in the 70s and then transport refrigeration the 70s to early 2000s.
Nice. I have an 88 Mustang LX 5.0L with the AOD. Mine is not daily driven as I live in Michigan but mine has 241K miles on it. i had it for 30 years now as of Feb 2. The AC not working can also be that low pressure switch on the receiver /dryer. It just screws on to it and has a shradder valve under it so you will only loose a very small amount of charge when changing it as long as you are quick at unscrewing it . i had to replace mine a few times over the years. I also just recharged mine last year with R12 that i had 2 12 oz cans of. Next time i will convert to R134. Also i do have and F100 myself that i'm restoring right now but mine is a 83 bull nose . Will rebuild a 87 Mustang engine for it as the original V8 is underpowered.
The Mustang has come along way from when you bought it. It definitely needs the quarter window trim for the exterior to look fresh. But the head liner man. The interior need a suede head liner and the panels color matched. My 2 cents for what it's worth. oh and put the speaker grilles on in the dash lol. Great progress and content.
PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. These were some of the first smog devices used starting in the mid 60s. Before these engines had draft tubes. A simple tube from the engine to the ground. All it’s for is to vent blow by out of the crankcase. Now fumes are run through the intake and burned during the combustion process. If you have a lot of oil in your PCV system it’s caused by excessive blow by.
I had to listen to Craig a few times, but felt I didn't quite understand and would explain PCV to those interested. As mentioned in this posting - PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. It's a pretty simple check valve, usually. This valve should only open when vacuum is high... In other words, at idle. This is generally OK, since it does increase idle speed a bit. This high vacuum period occurs enough under normal driving conditions to ready clear the crankcase of their fumage. Under acceleration you don't want to introduce a vacuum leak, which PCV induces, so that valve will be shut on acceleration. No vacuum loss while feeding it the onions. But, if pressure in the crankcase exceeds the resistance of the check valve, it will still vent, but without altering the vacuum. Also, when first introduced it was determined that you can't fling oil at a suction tube feeding your intake... so stock valve covers used internal baffling to let fumes move through, but minimal oil droplets. In this case, and with most aftermarket valve covers, you saw (here) a filter deep enough to make splash oil drip off, hopefully. Not as effective as internal baffling, but roller rockers don't offer much room for anything else. There are other options for much the same benefit. So check them PCVs fellars. 🧐
Dude, I wanna see you do a DIY 347 stroker. Clearancing the bottom of the bores for rods, etc. All of it. And it would make you REALLY fall in love with the Foxbody.. Like you, I'll never forget how happy it made me when I finished building my A/C system from scratch in my V8 Ranger. Best it will do via vent temp is 42 degrees at cruise. I got lucky sizing all of the parts in the system.
as you found out, you may need to jumper the switch so the pump runs when you charge the system. in vehicles with both hi & low press switch you;ll need to energize the clutch to charge it.
Also on some of the aftermarket intakes the baffle plate on the lower intake is not made right and will let oil get by. There a baffle plate you can print off line to fix that also.
Nice! A/C and no oil smoke. Looking good. I just charged mine and used a small can but the new digital large can I used the meter and saved the large can for another car.
Man those bearings would have been fine actually, ive seen worse from people just installing their camshaft lol. That PCV screen is the first thing i tell people to clean from day one of buying a 5.0 because 90% of people never touch, think to clean or had been deleted not knowing its purpose. That 150whp 😂😂, its a blast for sure.
My dad got a 98 explorer sport v6 from his brother and hes had it for like 6-7 years now and the ac has never worked in it all those years he had a alternator that would start squealing when turning on the lights fan whatever (very bad bearing surprised it lasted that long tbh) so he finally replaced it and the ac compressor decides to finally kick on and its charged. Literally replaced the alternator and it fixed the ac twas wack lol
I hope you are putting the front end in the sun as much as you can to help the paint cure. For a carport paint job you did a really good job! Love watching the videos and I can't wait to see the F100 back on the road!
My AC has the same problem the wire in the plug was migrating back so when I plugged it into the compressor it would push the connection instead of making contact
@@Thecraig909 I changed all of that when I got my fox 7 years ago. Recently was doing some tune-up work and the grommet was already hard so had to change it again.
It’s funny how you can buy cans of AC gas. I think it’s a case of “Only in America”. You can’t do that in Australia. Only licensed AC technicians can buy AC gas and they can only buy it in proper cylinders.
Get hold of a dashboard for it.That “Fred Flintstone” era dash ain’t lookin that great.You need to install wipers as well.Good job.Galaxie needs to be finished up tho.That was one great lookin 60 series LC btw
I'm laughing at the amount of miles you're putting on that car. Lol . I drive over 110 miles a day, just to work. Not including the run around once I get home. Basically 150+ miles a day. 5-6 days a week.. Great video though. I do like the Stang, the truck and the Galaxies..
Ever whi designed that pcv system sucks! I've seen hundreds of those clogged solid and blow out oil pans gaskets rear main seals valve cover gaskets dumb design ! O yeah it's FORD ENUFF SAID
How many cars have you fixed and Sean is not done with his truck. #seanfinishyourtruck
Love that hashtag 🤣
Bumped and Rusted My question is who's gonna finish their truck first Sean or Franklin.?
@@lilorbielilorbie2496 FRANKLIN is my bet. I’ll put $20 down Mater is running before Sean is down payable to the winner!
@@bumpedandrusted6074 Either way I'm sure they will both be done before I get my junk up and running. lol.
I had a 93 fox it also had the GT 40 INTAKE IN IT AND WAS CAMMED AND ALL I HAD TO RUN 2 PCV VALVES TO KEEP IT HAPPY RAN PERFECT AFTER I INSTALLED INE IN DRIVERS SIDE THAT WENT IN TO THE FILL CAP ON VALVE COVER FINALLY HAD TO SELL A COUPLE YEARS LATER TO MANY SPEEDING TICKETS CAR LOOKS GREAT YOU DID A GOOD JOB ON PAINT FOR A IN THE YARD JOB
THE number one thing a fox needs is rear gears. My 88 had 3.73's and was fully capable of verified 12 sec 1/4 times and still got 22mpg when driven in a sane fashion.
Well, driving in a sane fashion is the operative phrase here. Have you watched Craig drive ? HAHAHA!
Lol 12sec not an stock fox for sure 😅 stock is more like 15sec 1/4
@@jonathangautreau2230
Car & Driver 1987. Stone stock GT ran a 14.7. An hour under the hood without changing parts would turn that into a 13.9. LX Coupes were laughably easy to get into the 12's.
@@jonathangautreau2230 Stock is relative. Factory cam, lots of bolt ons from, and drive it like you hate it. I tried to put the full list of things up, but it was to long to get it to post.
The more I see that Foxbody, the more I want one. Really nice car Craig
Ikr, I've never really liked them but it's growing on me
@@alexenns3203 same. I’m not the biggest Ford fan but that Foxbody is nice
@@JaredR1996 I am Ford guy but I like the 1st gen mustangs
Would this be the same on the lincoln mark vii foxbody platform?
CRAIG! I have wanted to tell you this ever since you began the truck rebuild. Glyptal paint the interior of your engine block before you begin assembly. It seals the casting and really aids in getting your oil back to the pan. Old Smokey Yunnick trick,
It's the paint used in Alternator windings, but Yunnick found that it sealed his old castings and the smooth texture when dry really helps the oil flow back to the pan.
Clean the block with acetone and a brush, then dry it well. Apply it with a brush all over the rough casting areas(cylinder areas on top, block timing chain area, crank webs) you won't be sorry! Wanted to tell you earlier, but you always got the block back quickly, so I was always too late. Watch your vids every time, on the day they come out. Love the Ford guys! I've been one for years, so I wouldn't steer you wrong.
Craig is the kinda guy that claims hes a poor college kid yet he throws 3k at a motor that he blows up with barely 6k miles on it cause he doesn't build them right the first time
You have a low pressure switch that prevents clutch engagement. No refrigerant, no oil circulation, it protects your comp. Just jump the plug until you get some in there, then it will operate normally....
Craig At least you have more than one machine shop to chose from .Where I live we only have one. And at the beginning of 2022 he went way up the prices for everything that they do. Man I miss living in California.
Thanks for this vid! I just finished an hci swap (gt40p, tfs1, explorere upper and lower) and had the same thing, oil under acceleration. Was racking my brain about the source and not looking forward to pulling stuff apart again...lol! I forgot the very screen you mentioned here. Pulled it off the old intake and put it where it belongs. Free solution, cant beat that!
I have closed captioning turned on for youtube. When you fired up the mustang and later with it idling, the CC shows the engine running as "music" LOL! Thanks for sharing.
Audience, great job on the repairs Craig. It's super cool when you repair your own AC issues yourself✌🏼.
PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilation, not pollution control valve.
It’ll still burn oil. Even after changing the screen and pvc valve. Get a catch can from lmr. a company just put one out made for the foxbody. I put one on even after changing everything and drove at least 100 miles I had a spoon full of oil in the can. It really helped my afr it runs even cleaner so it’s worth every penny.
The low pressure switch saves your compressor. If you have a fitting come off on the a/c you can have moisture in the system. Anytime the systems seal is broken you really should recover the refrigerant and evacuate the system (hook it to the vacuum pump again) because if their is any moisture in the system it will cause issues. I've worked with my Dad a retired licensed refrigeration mechanic that has worked on Fords in the 60s, semi truck diesel in the 70s and then transport refrigeration the 70s to early 2000s.
Nice. I have an 88 Mustang LX 5.0L with the AOD. Mine is not daily driven as I live in Michigan but mine has 241K miles on it. i had it for 30 years now as of Feb 2. The AC not working can also be that low pressure switch on the receiver /dryer. It just screws on to it and has a shradder valve under it so you will only loose a very small amount of charge when changing it as long as you are quick at unscrewing it . i had to replace mine a few times over the years. I also just recharged mine last year with R12 that i had 2 12 oz cans of. Next time i will convert to R134. Also i do have and F100 myself that i'm restoring right now but mine is a 83 bull nose . Will rebuild a 87 Mustang engine for it as the original V8 is underpowered.
The Mustang has come along way from when you bought it. It definitely needs the quarter window trim for the exterior to look fresh. But the head liner man. The interior need a suede head liner and the panels color matched. My 2 cents for what it's worth. oh and put the speaker grilles on in the dash lol. Great progress and content.
I have a 65 Ford F100. I want to get a car eventually too. I think you’ve convinced me to get a fox body.
PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. These were some of the first smog devices used starting in the mid 60s. Before these engines had draft tubes. A simple tube from the engine to the ground. All it’s for is to vent blow by out of the crankcase. Now fumes are run through the intake and burned during the combustion process. If you have a lot of oil in your PCV system it’s caused by excessive blow by.
I had to listen to Craig a few times, but felt I didn't quite understand and would explain PCV to those interested.
As mentioned in this posting - PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. It's a pretty simple check valve, usually. This valve should only open when vacuum is high... In other words, at idle. This is generally OK, since it does increase idle speed a bit. This high vacuum period occurs enough under normal driving conditions to ready clear the crankcase of their fumage.
Under acceleration you don't want to introduce a vacuum leak, which PCV induces, so that valve will be shut on acceleration. No vacuum loss while feeding it the onions. But, if pressure in the crankcase exceeds the resistance of the check valve, it will still vent, but without altering the vacuum.
Also, when first introduced it was determined that you can't fling oil at a suction tube feeding your intake... so stock valve covers used internal baffling to let fumes move through, but minimal oil droplets. In this case, and with most aftermarket valve covers, you saw (here) a filter deep enough to make splash oil drip off, hopefully. Not as effective as internal baffling, but roller rockers don't offer much room for anything else. There are other options for much the same benefit.
So check them PCVs fellars. 🧐
Dude, I wanna see you do a DIY 347 stroker. Clearancing the bottom of the bores for rods, etc. All of it. And it would make you REALLY fall in love with the Foxbody.. Like you, I'll never forget how happy it made me when I finished building my A/C system from scratch in my V8 Ranger. Best it will do via vent temp is 42 degrees at cruise. I got lucky sizing all of the parts in the system.
as you found out, you may need to jumper the switch so the pump runs when you charge the system. in vehicles with both hi & low press switch you;ll need to energize the clutch to charge it.
Also on some of the aftermarket intakes the baffle plate on the lower intake is not made right and will let oil get by. There a baffle plate you can print off line to fix that also.
Nice! A/C and no oil smoke. Looking good. I just charged mine and used a small can but the new digital large can I used the meter and saved the large can for another car.
Man those bearings would have been fine actually, ive seen worse from people just installing their camshaft lol. That PCV screen is the first thing i tell people to clean from day one of buying a 5.0 because 90% of people never touch, think to clean or had been deleted not knowing its purpose.
That 150whp 😂😂, its a blast for sure.
My dad got a 98 explorer sport v6 from his brother and hes had it for like 6-7 years now and the ac has never worked in it all those years he had a alternator that would start squealing when turning on the lights fan whatever (very bad bearing surprised it lasted that long tbh) so he finally replaced it and the ac compressor decides to finally kick on and its charged. Literally replaced the alternator and it fixed the ac twas wack lol
Good afternoon Craig sorry for being late hope your day is great
I hope you are putting the front end in the sun as much as you can to help the paint cure. For a carport paint job you did a really good job! Love watching the videos and I can't wait to see the F100 back on the road!
For wear on cam bearing if there on the top of the that's on bad wear mostly matter on the bottom cam bearing
My AC has the same problem the wire in the plug was migrating back so when I plugged it into the compressor it would push the connection instead of making contact
Thanks for the advice to check that part
Craig literally at the end of every foxbody video: "It actually runs pretty good now!"
Now it's a daily , sounds good too
Can’t wait for every video man I love Craig’s content
Coming together nice Craig, great job !!
FYI, the old PCV grommet was just like the new one when it was new. Sitting in that hot intake causes it to get hard.
That’s what I figured. Definitely needed to be replaced haha.
@@Thecraig909 I changed all of that when I got my fox 7 years ago. Recently was doing some tune-up work and the grommet was already hard so had to change it again.
Hey man I just got a foxbody!!!!
What size tires you got on your mustang. The stance looks good.
Foxbody is looking mint bud
The tweaks keep adding up!
Kickass work my man! Keep up the awesome effort!!!
That’s so bad ass I love seeing your videos man
Thanks man that's some great info on the pcv valve
I deleted the pcv on my 81 k10. New valve covers don't have a spot for it.
More Galaxy for us old folks
Great video. Never knew about the little filter. Awesome to know
Are you near Boyd Coddingtons shop?
beautiful fox
Awesome work as always.
It runs so smoothly as my Camaro long as the road is smooth 😝
Nice job😎. This is why young people shouldn't have brand new cars. Your learning skills all the time
Great video man cars coming along awesome!! 👌
The engine bay looks 100 times better from when you first got it. Looks really good Craig
Excellent job. Now enjoy the fruits of your labor, nice cool a/c😄
Hey Craig did you upgrade your ac system to r-134a?
Just stumbled across this vid and some fox computers pull fuel on high vacuum deceleration which would make your Afr’s jump up.
What size steering wheel do you have? 13inch?
Who saves cam bearings when ur motor is 100% apart I can see if motor is In car an just swaping cams
RIP headphones. The music being 4x as loud as the rest of the video is rough
My bad. Rushed editing and forgot to turn it way down
@@Thecraig909 it happens, man! Still love the videos! Enjoy watching the progress!
It’s funny how you can buy cans of AC gas. I think it’s a case of “Only in America”. You can’t do that in Australia. Only licensed AC technicians can buy AC gas and they can only buy it in proper cylinders.
why is afr a best upgrade
You’re welcome.
Get hold of a dashboard for it.That “Fred Flintstone” era dash ain’t lookin that great.You need to install wipers as well.Good job.Galaxie needs to be finished up tho.That was one great lookin 60 series LC btw
Do you have wipers on the Fox body?
Man it don’t rain in California he don’t need them.
The motor doesn’t work I need to diagnose it. But yea doesn’t rain much.
Good work ... Build On
Nice!
I'm laughing at the amount of miles you're putting on that car. Lol . I drive over 110 miles a day, just to work. Not including the run around once I get home. Basically 150+ miles a day. 5-6 days a week..
Great video though. I do like the Stang, the truck and the Galaxies..
Anyone else see the gauge reach 25 when he was up in the rpm? But other then that it stays from 12-17
Awesome
You’re lucky to have empty roads like that, you would not believe the traffic in the UK
👍
First
Ever whi designed that pcv system sucks! I've seen hundreds of those clogged solid and blow out oil pans gaskets rear main seals valve cover gaskets dumb design ! O yeah it's FORD ENUFF SAID