Hi Hilton….a big thank you to yourself and Pete Day. Following your clear instructions, I now have a perfect automatically opening boot lid (we call them that here in the UK). I went your route using the rubber grommets and shorter self tapping screws, as this gave me adjustment of the opening speed. It’s amazing to see that such a simple mod can have such impressive results!
It's taken me nearly a year, but did it today. I think I need a harder rubber grommet (which I'll find in the week) , but it's pretty good and a great improvement. Thanks mate.
Glad to hear. The more proud your screw stands from the hole you made, the stronger the lifting of the trunk will be. It will also depend on how old your struts are.
Like always, Hilton, an excellent video showing what can be done. Just an alert to viewers that when MY XF is in the garage there is very little space behind it and the arc that the boot opens can foul the garage door centre hinge and potentially scratch the car paint. So for those who want to do this mod just be aware what could ensue.
Hi Hilton. I really enjoy watching your videos of improvements to your XF. I agree with you. The XF boot / trunk is definitely intended to fully open when the boot release on the key fob is pressed. I have a low mileage 2013 XF which only opened its boot slightly requiring it to be opened manually. This can be a nuisance when your hands are full and you want to put the items in the boot. It did not open fully even when the car was 3 years old, when I bought it. I replaced the gas struts this morning (£23 a pair on EBay from Strut Depot in London), fitted large self tapping screws to replace the plastic pads which contact the cam on the spring mechanism ( No need to drill if you pick the right size) and lubricated the pivots with WD40. The boot now opens almost, but not quite, fully, gently and smoothly with a press of the key fob, just like yours. Its about 10 degrees C in the UK today so not a warm day at all which would increase the gas pressure in the struts. A very easy, satisfying and cheap fix. I suspect that the official line from Jaguar that its not intended to open fully is simply to avoid thousands of warranty claims from owners with this problem which is due to the premature failure of the factory struts. PS I have also fitted led number plate lights which are much brighter and this together with a stick on red reflector on the round flat plate on the back of the differential, vastly increases the visibility of the rear of the car at night, improving safety.
Good job! I replaced gas struts and in cold weather the boot lid don't open as expected. I was thinking to purchase a stronger struts, but before that - with such a cheap solution I'll give it a try :)
It's absolutely worth a try and it will work guaranteed since you've just replaced your struts. I inserted a link in the description above to the screws as well.
You are freaking amazing, love, love, love this video. You always come up with something new and useful. Now all I need to do is find someone to do this for my Jag. As always Hilton you are the best. Keep um coming.
Thanks Debs. I would also recommend replacing the struts if you haven't done so, this will guarantee your trunk to open first time every time all the way ;-)
Would be curious to know the approximate distance your grommet + screw protrudes- thinking about turning a metal pad to substitute for the original plastic button
@dennisconway2548 It would have to protrude at least 20mm from the base where the rubber grommet sits to make a difference. You could wedge various sizes in there until you see the trunk pop open. But keep in mind it will pop open strongly in warm weather and not so much in cold weather so it's best to do this when it's cold.
I've just purchased my first XF and I have the same problem. I've tried everything this video suggests and mine only pops open about 1/3 of the way. Is mine the only one this video hasn't worked for? Should I maybe replace my gas struts?
Hey Matt, I would start with the struts if you've already done this mod. If that still doesn't do the trick, you could try replacing the little springs on that mechanism. I did a video on replacing them as well.
@@carfanfan I've seen both your videos on the springs and the struts mate. Learnt loads about the car through your videos. Keep up the good work. Much appreciated 👍
@@carfanfan replaced the gas struts this morning and it works like a charm now. Thanks hilton. Would never had known if i didn't stumble across your videos.
Hi Hilton, Great video. Will hopefully do this to mine when I get round to it. Just like to ask of you've had any issues with restricted performance on your xf? I've got the 3.0d v6 premium lux 2010 model.
Hey Jon, sorry to hear about your restricted performance woes. Mine is a 3.0 Petrol and have never had this message, but you would need an OBDII scanner to scan the codes to see what's causing it. It could be a dirty mass air flow meter, a full diesel particulate filter, a vacuum leak, - also, here's a link to the forums where a guy had an issue with the turbo actuator getting stuck in full open position - a bit of lube fixed the problem : jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8102
Hi I own a 2012 3.0d Portfolio S. I had the dreaded restricted performance pop up for the first time when cruising on motorway. It became more frequent over time and frequently when engine under load (often when travelling on an incline). Turning the car off and on again seemed to clear the message. Eventually it began to effect my DPF Regeneration cycle and since restricted performance message would pop up the regen. Would be terminated. Local mechanics and a jag specialists all said it was my driving style /characteristics (mainly urban / city driving) and my DPF would need changing (red DPF light and constant low power mode activated). Not true as it turned out. Eventually a jag specialists in west London diagnosed a split oil cooler radiator which was replaced and I have not had any problems since then. The restricted performance is a generic message which is the cars way of saying something is outside of parameters so it will reduce power to prevent further damage. An OBDII code reader will be helpful but only jag dealership or proper jag specialist can do a full diagnostic to identify the root cause. Restricted performance on 3.0D may suggest any of the following: DPF issues Compression issues / air leak Manifold absolute Pressure (dodgy sensor which then causes further issues) Crack in intercooler Crack in engine rocker cover (cheaply plastic) Split oil cooler Issues with the turbo actuator (note: there are 2 turbos but one is more prone to this) Get it checked out by specialists as it will only get worse over time and could cause further damage. Hope this helps
Great video Hilton. I finally got my first Jaguar XF. What an amazing car. Very thirsty on fuel though. Lol. Do you have any tips to help improve fuel efficiency? :)
Hey congrats Martin. I've noticed setting the cruise control helps bring down consumption. Otherwise that right foot is too tempted to get those horses galloping under the hood 😂
I would only do that if the lid no longer opens automatically. Mine was being stubborn so it required the mod. Hot and cold weather also play a roll. When it's colder, you will notice it won't open so much anymore because the gas contracts in the cold and expands in the heat to provide more pressure.
Just did this mod, sadly the trunk only opens up halfway. I used the same setup as you, with the 4,2 x 16 mm screw. Maybe I need to replace my gas struts?
My boot auto opens now, but it sort of crashes at the end rather than smooth, do you think this is a spring issue or the struts (i did install new struts of ebay), TIA!
Hi Hilton, Nice video; I'll give it a shot! But I have a problem you may be able to help me with. I own a 2012 3.0d XF. I love it!! But I'd like to make the rear DRLs come on with the front as per the 2014+ models. I suspect it's a code tweak or maybe the rear light control unit. Jaguar dealers just shrug their shoulders (I live in France). Can you or anyone else help? Keep up the good work, Dan.
Hey Dan. Unfortunately I can't help with that. Why don't you just turn the lights on park when you drive? Then the tail lights will light up as well as the DRLs 😊
The glue on those ones is usually very weak though and I severely doubt it would last here with the mechanical stress, temperature and moisture changes.
Turns out there is no hole under the rubber stopper. Time to make a valiant attempt at drilling into it and hope It doesn't start corroding the exposed metal.
@@carfanfan I'm quite scrupulous about preventing the car from any corrosion or rust. The screws you used, are they steel? Or aluminium/stainless? I was only able to arrange steel one's given the size and type of screw.
Perfect timing on the video, Hilton! I had the dealer replace both the struts and spring, though it didn't make much of a difference. I'm under the impression the service manager just said they changed just for the sake of satisfying my complaint. Is there any chance you might be willing to sell me the bolt and rubber washer/gasket as a pack? Or recommend something similar that one might be able to purchase online. It would be great help!
Hey Zereldo, I've inserted a link in the description above (click show more under the video). On the eBay ad, select the 4.2mm gauge and 16mm length and you'll be set. The link to the grommet set is also in the description. Good luck!
Okay so I read dozen or so comments, but no further so if this has been said already I apologize. Question: How on earth does a rubber grommet do ANYTHING when the screw is threaded into sheet metal? If you put one without a grommet and one with, I am sure it would be plain to see that the grommet ONLY gets compressed by the screw, and how far you thread it. There would be no further compression from the tab on the trunk hinge unless the screw was free to MOVE. Now if your only purpose what to hold the screw tightly and act as a lock washer, than I understand - otherwise, I don't see it. Thanks for posting this - I drive an XJ and do not have the same setup to self open the trunk. Sigh.
Hey John, the grommet is there to put tension on the screw as there will be a few millimeters of screw sticking out and the trunk lid will most likely bend it when you go to close the lid - therefore, I inserted the grommet to take up the slack between the screw head and the part where it is screwed into the trunk as support to avoid the screw from being bend or knocked out of place. It worked very well, but I'm sure as Pete Day showed, he had a different solution so there are probably many ways of achieving the same result.
Hi Hilton….a big thank you to yourself and Pete Day. Following your clear instructions, I now have a perfect automatically opening boot lid (we call them that here in the UK). I went your route using the rubber grommets and shorter self tapping screws, as this gave me adjustment of the opening speed. It’s amazing to see that such a simple mod can have such impressive results!
Hey Tony, happy to hear you did the mod. Spread the word so we can have more XF's opening their trunks the way they were intended to open 🤙😁
Thanks for the link Hilton. Excellent video. The difference between yours and mine is mainly that I was very, very drunk when I fitted them!
😂 LoL
Hi Hilton,
I have just done with this modification;) It just works perfectly;) thanks for you and Pete Day to sharing the video!
Cheers,
Zsolt
It's taken me nearly a year, but did it today. I think I need a harder rubber grommet (which I'll find in the week) , but it's pretty good and a great improvement. Thanks mate.
Glad to hear. The more proud your screw stands from the hole you made, the stronger the lifting of the trunk will be. It will also depend on how old your struts are.
Like always, Hilton, an excellent video showing what can be done. Just an alert to viewers that when MY XF is in the garage there is very little space behind it and the arc that the boot opens can foul the garage door centre hinge and potentially scratch the car paint. So for those who want to do this mod just be aware what could ensue.
Hi Hilton.
I really enjoy watching your videos of improvements to your XF.
I agree with you. The XF boot / trunk is definitely intended to fully open when the boot release on the key fob is pressed. I have a low mileage 2013 XF which only opened its boot slightly requiring it to be opened manually. This can be a nuisance when your hands are full and you want to put the items in the boot. It did not open fully even when the car was 3 years old, when I bought it.
I replaced the gas struts this morning (£23 a pair on EBay from Strut Depot in London), fitted large self tapping screws to replace the plastic pads which contact the cam on the spring mechanism ( No need to drill if you pick the right size) and lubricated the pivots with WD40. The boot now opens almost, but not quite, fully, gently and smoothly with a press of the key fob, just like yours. Its about 10 degrees C in the UK today so not a warm day at all which would increase the gas pressure in the struts. A very easy, satisfying and cheap fix.
I suspect that the official line from Jaguar that its not intended to open fully is simply to avoid thousands of warranty claims from owners with this problem which is due to the premature failure of the factory struts.
PS I have also fitted led number plate lights which are much brighter and this together with a stick on red reflector on the round flat plate on the back of the differential, vastly increases the visibility of the rear of the car at night, improving safety.
Good detail in the video. I shall try this on my XF.
You won't be disappointed Doug. It's still working great and I'm happy I did this mod. 😉🤙
Hi Hilton,
You are super thanks for all you videos !!
Love from the Holland !
I've done this, though I used a cut down coach bolt and tapped the hole. Works a treat, but in cold weather still only pops half way.
Well done Paul. Perhaps replace your struts. That might make a huge difference. 😉
Great videos Sir, keep them coming 👍🏻🙏
Good job! I replaced gas struts and in cold weather the boot lid don't open as expected. I was thinking to purchase a stronger struts, but before that - with such a cheap solution I'll give it a try :)
It's absolutely worth a try and it will work guaranteed since you've just replaced your struts. I inserted a link in the description above to the screws as well.
The springs are to open the lid intially to the point when the struts go over centre and can carry on.
You are freaking amazing, love, love, love this video. You always come up with something new and useful. Now all I need to do is find someone to do this for my Jag. As always Hilton you are the best. Keep um coming.
Thanks Debs. I would also recommend replacing the struts if you haven't done so, this will guarantee your trunk to open first time every time all the way ;-)
Great video. Thank you !
Great detailed video ! 😃👍
Keep up the good work bro! Thanks for sharing. Im new to your chanel and I have a Jaguar XF 2011.
Warm rgds frm Kuala Lumpur 🙌
Hey, Kuala Lumpur? Welcome to the channel and thanks for watching 👍
Would be curious to know the approximate distance your grommet + screw protrudes- thinking about turning a metal pad to substitute for the original plastic button
@dennisconway2548 It would have to protrude at least 20mm from the base where the rubber grommet sits to make a difference. You could wedge various sizes in there until you see the trunk pop open. But keep in mind it will pop open strongly in warm weather and not so much in cold weather so it's best to do this when it's cold.
I've just purchased my first XF and I have the same problem. I've tried everything this video suggests and mine only pops open about 1/3 of the way. Is mine the only one this video hasn't worked for? Should I maybe replace my gas struts?
Hey Matt, I would start with the struts if you've already done this mod. If that still doesn't do the trick, you could try replacing the little springs on that mechanism. I did a video on replacing them as well.
@@carfanfan I've seen both your videos on the springs and the struts mate. Learnt loads about the car through your videos. Keep up the good work. Much appreciated 👍
@@carfanfan replaced the gas struts this morning and it works like a charm now. Thanks hilton. Would never had known if i didn't stumble across your videos.
@@Matt-qe9yf Heyyy! Awesome Matt. Glad to hear it's working!
Hi Hilton,
Great video. Will hopefully do this to mine when I get round to it. Just like to ask of you've had any issues with restricted performance on your xf? I've got the 3.0d v6 premium lux 2010 model.
Hey Jon, sorry to hear about your restricted performance woes. Mine is a 3.0 Petrol and have never had this message, but you would need an OBDII scanner to scan the codes to see what's causing it. It could be a dirty mass air flow meter, a full diesel particulate filter, a vacuum leak, - also, here's a link to the forums where a guy had an issue with the turbo actuator getting stuck in full open position - a bit of lube fixed the problem : jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8102
Hi
I own a 2012 3.0d Portfolio S. I had the dreaded restricted performance pop up for the first time when cruising on motorway. It became more frequent over time and frequently when engine under load (often when travelling on an incline). Turning the car off and on again seemed to clear the message.
Eventually it began to effect my DPF Regeneration cycle and since restricted performance message would pop up the regen. Would be terminated.
Local mechanics and a jag specialists all said it was my driving style /characteristics (mainly urban / city driving) and my DPF would need changing (red DPF light and constant low power mode activated). Not true as it turned out.
Eventually a jag specialists in west London diagnosed a split oil cooler radiator which was replaced and I have not had any problems since then.
The restricted performance is a generic message which is the cars way of saying something is outside of parameters so it will reduce power to prevent further damage.
An OBDII code reader will be helpful but only jag dealership or proper jag specialist can do a full diagnostic to identify the root cause.
Restricted performance on 3.0D may suggest any of the following:
DPF issues
Compression issues / air leak
Manifold absolute Pressure (dodgy sensor which then causes further issues)
Crack in intercooler
Crack in engine rocker cover (cheaply plastic)
Split oil cooler
Issues with the turbo actuator (note: there are 2 turbos but one is more prone to this)
Get it checked out by specialists as it will only get worse over time and could cause further damage.
Hope this helps
Great video Hilton. I finally got my first Jaguar XF. What an amazing car. Very thirsty on fuel though. Lol. Do you have any tips to help improve fuel efficiency? :)
Hey congrats Martin. I've noticed setting the cruise control helps bring down consumption. Otherwise that right foot is too tempted to get those horses galloping under the hood 😂
Using the cruise control on a highway trip, my 2l diesel XF regularly gets 3.7 l/100km
I replaced the struts only, and my 5l v8 2010 xf boot now opens automatically. Must I fit the new screws and gromit as well ?
I would only do that if the lid no longer opens automatically. Mine was being stubborn so it required the mod. Hot and cold weather also play a roll. When it's colder, you will notice it won't open so much anymore because the gas contracts in the cold and expands in the heat to provide more pressure.
Yes it worked last night, today the temperature dropped and it rained heavily in London - now it doesn't work anymore
Just did this mod, sadly the trunk only opens up halfway. I used the same setup as you, with the 4,2 x 16 mm screw.
Maybe I need to replace my gas struts?
Definitely replace your struts. And put some oil in all the joints and clean any crud out. It will definitely work.
My boot auto opens now, but it sort of crashes at the end rather than smooth, do you think this is a spring issue or the struts (i did install new struts of ebay), TIA!
Sounds like the springs to me
Hi Hilton, Nice video; I'll give it a shot! But I have a problem you may be able to help me with. I own a 2012 3.0d XF. I love it!! But I'd like to make the rear DRLs come on with the front as per the 2014+ models. I suspect it's a code tweak or maybe the rear light control unit. Jaguar dealers just shrug their shoulders (I live in France). Can you or anyone else help? Keep up the good work, Dan.
Hey Dan. Unfortunately I can't help with that. Why don't you just turn the lights on park when you drive? Then the tail lights will light up as well as the DRLs 😊
No need to drill. Just take a 10mm self adhesive rubber hemisphere and stick it to the factory fitted bung. These are the lttle furniture bumpers.
The glue on those ones is usually very weak though and I severely doubt it would last here with the mechanical stress, temperature and moisture changes.
Doesn't work using these, the mechanism just crushes them
very ussefull, I will see if I can do it on my x type
Good job :D
Interesting video Hilton but will leave mine as is.
Turns out there is no hole under the rubber stopper. Time to make a valiant attempt at drilling into it and hope It doesn't start corroding the exposed metal.
Don't worry, it won't corrode in that location as moisture doesn't really get there 😉
@@carfanfan I'm quite scrupulous about preventing the car from any corrosion or rust.
The screws you used, are they steel? Or aluminium/stainless? I was only able to arrange steel one's given the size and type of screw.
Perfect timing on the video, Hilton! I had the dealer replace both the struts and spring, though it didn't make much of a difference. I'm under the impression the service manager just said they changed just for the sake of satisfying my complaint. Is there any chance you might be willing to sell me the bolt and rubber washer/gasket as a pack? Or recommend something similar that one might be able to purchase online. It would be great help!
Hey Zereldo, I've inserted a link in the description above (click show more under the video). On the eBay ad, select the 4.2mm gauge and 16mm length and you'll be set. The link to the grommet set is also in the description. Good luck!
Okay so I read dozen or so comments, but no further so if this has been said already I apologize. Question: How on earth does a rubber grommet do ANYTHING when the screw is threaded into sheet metal? If you put one without a grommet and one with, I am sure it would be plain to see that the grommet ONLY gets compressed by the screw, and how far you thread it. There would be no further compression from the tab on the trunk hinge unless the screw was free to MOVE. Now if your only purpose what to hold the screw tightly and act as a lock washer, than I understand - otherwise, I don't see it. Thanks for posting this - I drive an XJ and do not have the same setup to self open the trunk. Sigh.
The grommet seals it from water intrusion
Hey John, the grommet is there to put tension on the screw as there will be a few millimeters of screw sticking out and the trunk lid will most likely bend it when you go to close the lid - therefore, I inserted the grommet to take up the slack between the screw head and the part where it is screwed into the trunk as support to avoid the screw from being bend or knocked out of place. It worked very well, but I'm sure as Pete Day showed, he had a different solution so there are probably many ways of achieving the same result.
Good video but I don't need to do this - I have a Sportbrake!
@hilton do u have instagram or any other social media 🤔
wow always just thought it was supposed to pop open just a bit not all the way
cool