I never had a problem with cold sink water until I had to replace my bathroom faucet with the new low flow set. Now I have to turn the hot water on and walk away for a while. I'm looking at something like this. It's looks like a simple install, and I have a dedicated 120v circuit a few feet above where it needs to plug in. I can pipe it into the existing hot water line so hopefully I can use a smaller version of this, need to do the math. Thanks for this video.
Amazing how many of these vids don't show the final result and actually discuss the performance. A couple of shots at the end with before/after or just the flow and warm-up time.
Liked the video. Please do a follow up later on as to how well it works and if you have any problems. I have a situation were something like this would help.
you did a great job prepping everything for a professional install. My only question is the direction of pressure release valve. Do you plan to re-route it away from back of cabinet? great job! I'm facing this now.
@@geraldbennett7035 in warm climates, that's correct. Otherwise to drain with 1" air gap. However under a sink it's tough because the air gap creates the potential for a clogged trap to spill out through the gap instead of filling the sink. Since a mini water heater can easily be removed, I think it comes down to whatever risk the occupant is willing to take. Backflow risk vs. Scalding risk vs flooding risk. But I think we agree that leaving the t&p valve as is is unacceptable.
I think I'd rather have a tankless under the sink, but I've really been considering one of these for our bathroom, since it's on the opposite end of the house from our heater
@@danscolardi1499 you can avoid the sandwich effect where you have a whole house tankless heater and a point of use (POU) tankless heater. A cold water sandwich may be created by the whole house heater which is then corrected by the POU tankless heater. That is the setup I have in my house with the tankless point of use under my kitchen sink. However the drawback is my 8kw 33 amp POU heater can only keep up with a modest 0.5 gpm flow... You would need a 11kw or 13kw POU to heat water at a 1.5 or 2 gpm flow which would require something like 6 gauge copper wire on a dedicated circuit (not cheap).
Worst case, run it down into the crawlspace and hopefully catch a drain down there. Worst case, the crawlspace is better than discharging into a finished cabinet
Good vid, thanks. A water pressure vent almost never happens at the heater. In my house, a failed expansion tank caused an increase in pressure. (Hot water expands.) The hot water heater exploded first. I heard it pop. I went to the garage right away and checked everything out. The 3/4" "vent pipe" outlet didn't work. 55 gallons of water were on the floor and the water was still flowing... Good thing I was able to hear the heater from upstairs in the house, (18 year old Goodman, common choice with builders). FYI I installed the new heater with two expansion tanks in the closed system. They are cheep... ($20) but only last so long... Available at all home improvement stores. Having two expansion tanks and a pressure gauge at the hot water heater are a must if you have the space to do this.... I have 3 tanks now with pressure gauge watching the whole closed system. (closed system: Basically, if you are heating water and no valves are open, your system is closed and the water pressure will rise.)
Appreciate the video. I bought the Bosch Tronic 3000 T 2.5 gallon unit and am attempting to install it. A couple of questions: 1. I have an existing system with TWO supply lines, hot & cold, to my current sink. Both have shut off valves. 2. Would I disconnect my COLD water supply & connect it to the IN (blue) connection on the unit? 3. Then run a supply line OUT of the unit to where the sink gets water? 4. Or would I disconnect the HOT water supply, connect it to the IN (blue) connection on the unit & then OUT to the sink?
Leave the cold water supply alone, you will connect the hot water line to the water in side of the water heater then connect the outlet side of the water heater to the sink.
@@DanielWoodell What if you are installing in an RV that you have a 30 gallon tank gravity feeding the water line? Can I just connect my current line running from the sink directly to this or do you need hot and cold lines. I didn't bother to run a hot water line even though I have a propane water heater based on the logic I was planning on buying one of these to just give me hot water. You know what my direct question is can I adjust the temperature of the water or what you see is what you get? Built an entire RV from ground up can't figure out running water😂 Sounds about right
It is It's supposed to be connected to a 20A GFI outlet. If it trips then there is a shirt or pulling too much amps. Any outlet dealing with water or in the vicinity of water ot outside must be ground fault protected
Hey Daniel! Thanks for the video! I do have a dumb question for you, how does the water travel up the line from the water heater? Pressure? Or is there a motor? Thanks!
City water is what he connected to, city water is designed to have a certain pressure behind that water. Maybe 40-80psi or something, idk. If he was off grid and had a water tank lower than the sink in elevation, then he would need a pump to get the water around the house. OR mount the water tank on the roof and use the “gravity” to pressurize the system
Turn off water supply line. Disconnect unit from supply and discharge water lines. Unplug. Then you must let it cool down for 8 hours. Lift the unit up and invert it over your sink. Water will drain out.
I already have a whole-house tankless water heater in my basement. I want to install one of these under my kitchen sink but I don’t want my main heater to kick on every time I use this. Can I put a T fitting off my cold supply line under my sink, so that it feeds the cold faucet and the under sink heater, and cap my hot line under the sink?
I can't imagine how anyone would be able to get 4 gallons of water out of a 3/8 line in 5 seconds. Did you cut the video or was there actually still air left in the tank.
If you had a properly sized extension cord it would work, how ever water heater are usually expected to have a plug in close by usually and electrician adds or relocates a plug in to the location that the heater will be located.
Would it make sense to connect the cold water supply to this and not the hot water? My bathroom sink is across the house from hot water heater, so pulling hot water to refill this tank would not get any hot water from the heater before it is full. This would just waste the hot water in the line.
That outlet is GFCI dedicated 20 AMP breaker in the panel, and yes the relief line should be plumbed outside, but it’s in my shop and I build the cabinet if there is a issue with it I’ll be the only one to blame 😁
@@DanielWoodell Hi Daniel, That is good that it is on a gfi circuit. But it would have been a good point to mention, as some viewers might no know that it should be. As far as the relief valve, you're right it's your $200. I really did not mean to sound like a 'B" buster. George
Am I missing something?? Why do you have a separate water supply feeding the heater and then another supply line (the red one) going to the cold water side of the tap? Are they both cold water?
Or am I missing something because shouldn't you have 3 lines at this point 1 cold water line and 2 lines for hot water one from the supply line into the unit and from the unit to the hot water line on the faucet?
Dad just installed this in his place to save electricity but now he only gets a few minutes of warm water in the shower. Any idea why? Low water pressure, low volume. Thanks!!
Wouldn’t the hot water supply line from the house connect to the cold water supply to the little tank? As you run out of hot water from the little tank it will be filled eventually with hot water from the larger house hot water tank, assuming you kept the hot water running long enough in the bathroom sink. 🤔
I'd recommend mounting the water heater a little bit off the floor so that leaks are easier to see and detect.
I never had a problem with cold sink water until I had to replace my bathroom faucet with the new low flow set. Now I have to turn the hot water on and walk away for a while. I'm looking at something like this. It's looks like a simple install, and I have a dedicated 120v circuit a few feet above where it needs to plug in. I can pipe it into the existing hot water line so hopefully I can use a smaller version of this, need to do the math. Thanks for this video.
Crazy how they give us low flow to save water, which requires that we use more.
Amazing how many of these vids don't show the final result and actually discuss the performance. A couple of shots at the end with before/after or just the flow and warm-up time.
Liked the video. Please do a follow up later on as to how well it works and if you have any problems. I have a situation were something like this would help.
Thank you. Great detail. I am building a bar in my pavilion and need hot water for clean up.
you did a great job prepping everything for a professional install. My only question is the direction of pressure release valve. Do you plan to re-route it away from back of cabinet? great job! I'm facing this now.
It looks like a non GCFI outlet and you have the relief valve pointed straight at it. You could plumb it to point it down.
Great video! Concise and easy to follow. Well Done! What about the relief valve? Is that fine to leave unplumbed?
No the relief valve should be plumbed to drain since it is in a finished space.
@@dpky7333 cant do that because of potential for sewer gas/water to back fill into water heater. Have to plumb to outside of building.
@@geraldbennett7035 in warm climates, that's correct. Otherwise to drain with 1" air gap. However under a sink it's tough because the air gap creates the potential for a clogged trap to spill out through the gap instead of filling the sink. Since a mini water heater can easily be removed, I think it comes down to whatever risk the occupant is willing to take. Backflow risk vs. Scalding risk vs flooding risk. But I think we agree that leaving the t&p valve as is is unacceptable.
I think I'd rather have a tankless under the sink, but I've really been considering one of these for our bathroom, since it's on the opposite end of the house from our heater
I looked at the tankless a lot but the price difference and the power requirements in this application just really didn’t work out for me.
The electric tankless is plagued by the 'sandwich effect' (check online for this) which I hate. A small tank is far better for kitchen sink.
@@danscolardi1499 you can avoid the sandwich effect where you have a whole house tankless heater and a point of use (POU) tankless heater. A cold water sandwich may be created by the whole house heater which is then corrected by the POU tankless heater. That is the setup I have in my house with the tankless point of use under my kitchen sink. However the drawback is my 8kw 33 amp POU heater can only keep up with a modest 0.5 gpm flow... You would need a 11kw or 13kw POU to heat water at a 1.5 or 2 gpm flow which would require something like 6 gauge copper wire on a dedicated circuit (not cheap).
How long did it take for it to heat up for the first initial use?
No expansion vessel? No pipe for the pressure relief valve? If it went of straight over the power supply.
why did you install stop valve on out going hot water?
Great video! Is it better to vent (pipe) the relief valve to the drain pipe?
I was wondering same
You probably want to put a discharge pipe on that t&p valve so it's not aiming right at the plug that you have right there
and to a location not effected by water
How would you suggest plumbing the t&p valve? I don't have an easy drain location. What did you do?
How would you plumb the t&p valve. I don't have a local drain
Worst case, run it down into the crawlspace and hopefully catch a drain down there. Worst case, the crawlspace is better than discharging into a finished cabinet
Good vid, thanks. A water pressure vent almost never happens at the heater. In my house, a failed expansion tank caused an increase in pressure. (Hot water expands.) The hot water heater exploded first. I heard it pop. I went to the garage right away and checked everything out. The 3/4" "vent pipe" outlet didn't work. 55 gallons of water were on the floor and the water was still flowing... Good thing I was able to hear the heater from upstairs in the house, (18 year old Goodman, common choice with builders). FYI I installed the new heater with two expansion tanks in the closed system. They are cheep... ($20) but only last so long... Available at all home improvement stores. Having two expansion tanks and a pressure gauge at the hot water heater are a must if you have the space to do this.... I have 3 tanks now with pressure gauge watching the whole closed system. (closed system: Basically, if you are heating water and no valves are open, your system is closed and the water pressure will rise.)
Appreciate the video. I bought the Bosch Tronic 3000 T 2.5 gallon unit and am attempting to install it.
A couple of questions:
1. I have an existing system with TWO supply lines, hot & cold, to my current sink. Both have shut off valves.
2. Would I disconnect my COLD water supply & connect it to the IN (blue) connection on the unit?
3. Then run a supply line OUT of the unit to where the sink gets water?
4. Or would I disconnect the HOT water supply, connect it to the IN (blue) connection on the unit & then OUT to the sink?
Leave the cold water supply alone, you will connect the hot water line to the water in side of the water heater then connect the outlet side of the water heater to the sink.
So number 4
@@DanielWoodell What if you are installing in an RV that you have a 30 gallon tank gravity feeding the water line? Can I just connect my current line running from the sink directly to this or do you need hot and cold lines. I didn't bother to run a hot water line even though I have a propane water heater based on the logic I was planning on buying one of these to just give me hot water. You know what my direct question is can I adjust the temperature of the water or what you see is what you get? Built an entire RV from ground up can't figure out running water😂 Sounds about right
Is there anything about connecting the relief valve to a drain in case it releases?
Should you have plugged it into a GFI or would it trip the GFI everytime the water heater turns on?
It is It's supposed to be connected to a 20A GFI outlet. If it trips then there is a shirt or pulling too much amps. Any outlet dealing with water or in the vicinity of water ot outside must be ground fault protected
Very nice! Another video for something I will be doing in my shop. Great video! Look forward to the next one.
Ya, so where did you say I could find someone to install this for me?
What about the pressure relief valve.
how do you drain water out of unit ?
great job hooking one up in my outdoor shed i made for toilet and sink
Hey Daniel!
Thanks for the video! I do have a dumb question for you, how does the water travel up the line from the water heater?
Pressure? Or is there a motor?
Thanks!
pressure
City water is what he connected to, city water is designed to have a certain pressure behind that water. Maybe 40-80psi or something, idk. If he was off grid and had a water tank lower than the sink in elevation, then he would need a pump to get the water around the house. OR mount the water tank on the roof and use the “gravity” to pressurize the system
you think this could would in a mobile detail trailer if plumb right?
Does anyone know if this has to have constant water supply or would I be able to fill it as needed?
what type of disharge pipe for t&p valve did you install? thank you!
Excellent video Everything covered
Can you have ind in the kitchen and one in the bathroom? Could it be used to fill a bath?
To small to fill a bath
How can the water (heater) flow wel since it’s under the sink pls
What about the overflow connection?
This guy never showed how to operate the unit, i know is probably simple but please make the video complete for people who never have seen it 😮 wow
Relief valve , expansion vessel??
Do you know how to drain one of these ?
Turn off water supply line. Disconnect unit from supply and discharge water lines. Unplug. Then you must let it cool down for 8 hours. Lift the unit up and invert it over your sink. Water will drain out.
How much electricity cost to keep on all time, using occasionally. Mine costing £50 a month i use occasionally which is huge! !
Would it be ok to install this on the side?
I already have a whole-house tankless water heater in my basement. I want to install one of these under my kitchen sink but I don’t want my main heater to kick on every time I use this. Can I put a T fitting off my cold supply line under my sink, so that it feeds the cold faucet and the under sink heater, and cap my hot line under the sink?
Yes
I can't imagine how anyone would be able to get 4 gallons of water out of a 3/8 line in 5 seconds. Did you cut the video or was there actually still air left in the tank.
Do you get hot water on your shower???
My mini hat water heater is leaking how can i fix it?
can you extend the power cord? It's pretty short.
If you had a properly sized extension cord it would work, how ever water heater are usually expected to have a plug in close by usually and electrician adds or relocates a plug in to the location that the heater will be located.
I installed mine lying on the floor because I didn't have space to put it upright. is that a serious mistake? Please someone help me . Thank you
Would it make sense to connect the cold water supply to this and not the hot water? My bathroom sink is across the house from hot water heater, so pulling hot water to refill this tank would not get any hot water from the heater before it is full. This would just waste the hot water in the line.
I don't think this is a booster for an existing water heater.
GFI outlet needed, and plumb the over flow temp/pressure valve away from the unit.
That outlet is GFCI dedicated 20 AMP breaker in the panel, and yes the relief line should be plumbed outside, but it’s in my shop and I build the cabinet if there is a issue with it I’ll be the only one to blame 😁
@@DanielWoodell Hi Daniel, That is good that it is on a gfi circuit. But it would have been a good point to mention, as some viewers might no know that it should be. As far as the relief valve, you're right it's your $200. I really did not mean to sound like a 'B" buster. George
@@DanielWoodell BTW I did enjoy the video!
Am I missing something?? Why do you have a separate water supply feeding the heater and then another supply line (the red one) going to the cold water side of the tap? Are they both cold water?
Yes the are both cold, I ran out of blue half inch pex, when I was plumbing the shop.
@@DanielWoodellso technically I could just connect a hot water line and cold water line to this?
Or am I missing something because shouldn't you have 3 lines at this point 1 cold water line and 2 lines for hot water one from the supply line into the unit and from the unit to the hot water line on the faucet?
Or should I be installing the hot water supply line to the blue side then from the red to the sink?
What size breaker, do you need?
20 amp
Dad just installed this in his place to save electricity but now he only gets a few minutes of warm water in the shower. Any idea why? Low water pressure, low volume. Thanks!!
This type of tank is designed for a sink only gallons provided and the on-demand feature or not read it for a shower.
This is not meant to supply a shower.
What about the prv .have you got your unvented certificate to install this
Who cares if he does or doesn’t.
If this is under a kitchen sink with an existing hot water line, does the hot water line go to the bosch unit instead?
yup
@@DanielWoodell Thanks for the quick reply! It's been a little over a month... still happy with the unit?
@@DanielWoodell So does the hot water supply pipe go to the Cold Water Inlet or the Hot Water Outlet on the Bosch Unit?
No GFCI?
Could be inline with another plug.
It is a water heater, not a hot water heater
PLEASE stop calling it a Hot water heater. If anything it’s a cold water heater, or just a water heater.😀
Never understood why you would need to heat hot water 🤔
119 ministries UA-cam the sabbath day video you'll want to watch it.
@@joejr1967 it is called a hot water heater because it heats water
No it’s not. Hot water heater is redundant!!!!
Wouldn’t the hot water supply line from the house connect to the cold water supply to the little tank? As you run out of hot water from the little tank it will be filled eventually with hot water from the larger house hot water tank, assuming you kept the hot water running long enough in the bathroom sink. 🤔
It's called a water heater.
Why in the hell would you install a "hot water heater" ??? Why heat hot water ?? Wouldn't it not be a water heater ???
I think I would have used hot water as supply to tank. Not cold side. Just saying
I don't think this is a booster for an existing water heater.
@@TTW1 I would use it so I wouldn’t have to wait on main source of hot water. My preference
@@allred53 What I'm saying is that there was no hot water at this sink and that the mini tank is now the only supply.
About how long did it take to heat the first fill?
About 10 min to hear the water to a comfortable hand washing temp