John Deere 335 Round Baler - Keep, Sell, Repair or Replace???
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- Potential trouble with the John Deere 335 round baler. What should we do with this round baler going forward?
We are a small family farm in the western mountains of Virginia. Subscribe for more farming videos - Thanks for watching!
![ОРБАН приехал к ПУТИНУ и "отчитался" о поездке в Киев 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_0ukDovOWq8/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello this is good advise. For me i have very little experience with round balers thankyou. Have a great day.
I’ve used friction tape in my new Holland baler and it help my baler. My problem wasn’t slipping it was off tracking. One belt was going over top of another one. The difference between Deere and new Holland round balers is huge. A new Holland is a Much simpler machine. Some people may agree with me or not on about what I’m about to say and that windrows have a lot to do how a round baler will perform. And moisture play a major roll in round baling. Really dry hay in a round baler doesn’t do well it literally crumbles or just doesn’t want to make a bale and I have found that short hay is really difficult to start to form a bale.
I'd repair the baler you have. Try the tape to get through the season, but figure out which way you need to wrap it so the belt slip will not roll it right back off the cylinders. You should plan for new belts with the new shafts as a set. Check bearings on those shaft supports when getting new rolls (bearings going out seems to be the cause of most baler fires). The slipping is likely due to UV sunlight mixed with ozone degradation of the belts and roller tires making them hard and inelastic. You might try cleaning both the belts and rollers with something so they are tacky again before messing with the tape (belt dressing? Musical store violin bow rosin?), it's an issue of tension and friction to keep the system spinning correctly. Perhaps those door cylinders are not closing tight reducing belt tension? Sticks jammed in something? What springs are in the baler to ensure belt tension, maybe they are stretched out/need adjustment. .. Make sure to have the square baler in top condition and hooked up to another tractor (the ol' 350?) ready to swoop in and take over when the inevitable fussing with the round baler happens to avoid rain on the hay. That way you can do the rebuild this fall in the shed and not in the middle of the hay field while feed hay gets converted to erosion control/lawn seeding cover.
Try checking the tension on the beltsand check the bearings on the top roller. Also be careful with hydrloic cylinders for the tail gate when you keep trying to close them to put pressure on the tailgate you will blow the cylinders apart and they are expensive
I have run a 435 for a long time, they are good balers, first thing to check, make sure your belts are the right length, next rebuild your pickup attachment, if you have 2 steps on your belts left, they should be ok, if you do get another 335/435, keep your's for parts, that gearbox on the PTO is over 2k, next time it stops turning a bale, get out and check to make sure the gate latches are stuck latched, lots of feeding problems will stop after you get the pickup rebuilt, short dry hay. Is hard to bale, try it early in the morning when it's a little bit tough, makes a lot of difference, good luck
Thanks - unlike the 435, the 335 does not have a gate latch. Hydraulic cylinders hold it closed.
My experience has been that short grassy hay is miserable to round bale. Might be fine baling taller hay. The tape is worth a shot, not much to lose.
Agree. I’ll get it back into hay under more normal conditions. But it is a JD, so it ought to handle the abnormal conditions no problem - right? 😙😙😙🚨🚨🤨😎👍
I don’t know much about belt balers, but on the old Krone chain balers if the main chain slips or stops turning it could be a few things. A main drive bearing could be out or going out, the main drive chain could be jumping, a sprocket could be wore out, or a piece of key stock could be sheered. Not sure if any of these things carry over to a belt baler but maybe it’ll give you more ideas of where to look. Best of luck with your baler!
I like those Krone balers.
That baler appears to have been well cared for. I’d experiment more with it before making any big changes. You might just try spray belt dressing on the inside of the belts. Mike use to do that on his old New Idea after the belts got worn.
@@khtractors That’s my plan - thanks!
1st baler I used was a friends 335 then bought a 446. I would keep what you have and just rebuild is as needed!
Thanks!
I have very little personal experience with round balers, so I can't really give you much good advice. Generally, I tend to try to fix what I have, rather than sell or replace, if the rest of the machines seems good. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.
@@pagrainfarmer thanks!
Each baler is different and even if you have the same one. That said most have a drive roller either all rubber of with the sleeved rubber on them. I would think that the anti-slip would work, you may want to do a slanted cut at the directional end, not sure if a butt cut would hold. I'd give it a try if I had the same issue, good luck with it. Have a nice day!
Thanks!
Nothing beats new equipment if you can afford it.
I understand that not everyone can swing it and they have a budget so used is the only route for those individuals.
I’ve had and ran used equipment and in the last couple of years just switched to new. It’s not even a comparison.
It’s getting harder and harder to make any real money in the hay business unless you are doing a ton of side jobs and you are putting up several hundred bales of your own hay every year.
Where I’m located, the hay business is extremely competitive. If you aren’t running new, you can’t compete.
Most producers around these parts are running 6 series John Deere tractors with all or relatively new equipment.
I run New Holland tractor plus equipment and it’s been great to me.
I hope you find a reasonable solution to your conundrum.
Thanks!
I think the tape would be putting a bandage on it. The rubber on the drive roller’s definitely looks worn down. I would put it in hay again, like it is, and try different techniques for starting a roll. I’ve got a NH 630 4x4 roller, and sometimes I have to gear down to get the roll started depending on the conditions of the hay, then once the bales going I can pick the MPH back up. If the gate cylinders opened a little it could’ve very well took enough tension off the belts to cause them to slip. If you have to do the drive rollers, I would probably do that, on that baler, versus trying to find another one because newer balers, and even balers of the same era have gotten stupid high, and the baler you have has been taken care of even though it’s been used. Most of the 330/335’s I see in our area are getting ragged out. Yours is definitely an exception. The 335 is not much different than the balers that replaced it, so the only thing you might gain by going up is electric tie as an option. Like I said I’d try it again, make sure your gate is fully closed, and if need be change your technique. I personally don’t think the hay you were rolling would’ve caused it. I worked for a Deere dealer for 5.5 years, and every Deere roller I ran picked hay up right from the start regardless of the height of the hay. If it was super thick I could see that being an issue before the thin hay. If you got any questions, I’ll try to answer them, been around several of the Deere balers.
Thanks - I appreciate the info…👍
If the baler makes enough saleable hay, fix it I guess. If you go with the tape, keep the layers even & mind the thickness of the top roller.
Thanks!
Have you had any trouble with the twine arm. That’s the one thing I don’t like about the John Deere the hydraulic twin arm. Also probably some pretty good deals on new ones right now with the slow sales. Great video as always
The only issue with the twine arm is it needs adjusted to put twine closer to the right side of the bale. The twine tie is hydraulic and manual. It doesn’t use a power steering pump and auto cycle like a JD 430 or 435, it is all manual. Moves twine across the bale as you move the remote lever one direction or the other.
@@HumbleHaymakers ok that sounds a lot simpler. That 430 is pretty complicated
maybe see if you can tighten the belts. I would also say trade it in on a kubota of massey ferguson 1745d baler. Their prertty good balers
I have a nh baler. So this might not help. But my belts slipped. The top rear roller could be rasised to stop slipage..
Thanks!
My cousin always said the man that raked the need to bale it so he would know how big to make the windrow
Short hay is hard to bale. There's a spring on the right top side of the baler that put tension on the belts. I think it's to have 15 inches of tension on it. Those are good balers. I would fix it. But I would be interested if you decide to sell it. Is there a way to communicate with you other than in the comments?
Thanks - we’ll see how it goes the next round. Your 330 is older than my 335, how is the rubber on the drive rollers?
@@HumbleHaymakers my rollers are pretty good. Are you sure it's driving with both rollers. I had the same problem with my 330 smoking the belts. I traced it to the bottom drive sprocket was slipping on the shaft. I didn't make a video of repairing it. I will try to make a short video this weekend on my baler and share some things I have learned.
@@VintageFarm1086You might be on to something. Thanks!