Other than the slightly unsystematic, excessively casual handling of the tooling it was an enjoyable video demonstrating the bearing removal and replacement.
Bought my wheels second hand and there was so much drag backpedalling them.Thanks to your video and the shim placement all solved.Thank you so much.Was driving me crazy.
I have C-record hubs and Dura ace 7700 which both are beyond 100.000 km! Always service them,clean the balls and use the white Campagnolo grease. If that is done properly,they might live longer than we do.... These industrial rollers can’t take much axial load,so they have to be renewed in a much shorter interval to be in good condition.And at one point they won’t sit properly in place and you can dump them. Back in the days we would always build new wheels with used hubs. Today you know their lifespan is ridiculously shorter with these industrial bearings
As a new rider, I had a pair of Zipps (30 Course) for a year and a half... rear hub failed three times. The first time, got a flat and couldn’t get the rear wheel back on when I noticed the whole assembly kept sliding out. Uber’ed it home. Sent the wheel back to Zipp. Got it back three weeks later. A few months after, same thing happened. Back to Zipp. A few months later, it happened again. Zipp blamed (You can’t make this up!) the construction/geometry of the bike (Specialized) in the flex putting too much strain on the rear hub mechanics. Then it pivoted to rider error. In either case Zipp refused to provide a replacement. They kept the wheel for 2.5 months before it was returned. It was the LBS opinion that they sent it back to China or wherever they actually build their wheels for them to overhaul it. It didn’t matter after that. Traded the bike and the wheels in for a new bike (Specialized w/DTS wheels). Ultimately Zipp lost me forever as a customer and I’m now in the anti-Zipp crowd. I share this to say that you should provide your services in re-constructing their customer service program as well as their wheels. Lol
I've heard 2 things. There either absolutely the best wheels ever or like your experience, a massive pain. Must be some fan boys out there. You'd expect this from budget brands. Sad to hear and poor customer service.
PnlBtr I was massively disappointed because I did my homework and believed it was a well supported brand. I couldn’t have imagined their customer service would’ve been that poor. They’ve completely lost me as a customer. I’ve shared this incident with several other cyclists that I’ve meet or know and they ended up buying a different brand. Frankly the cost and competition for wheels literally demands a strong customer service platform. Sadly Zipp doesn’t have it.
@@CycoWarriorx well you probably saved me a load of hassle. Was looking into a set. Sorry you had to deal with that. It sucks but thanks for the heads up.
This video really halped me to install free hub body rubber seal correctly. Sram manual have just a little notice but no good pictures to understand the correct position. Also, I found back end of a toothpick fits just right for pushing the rubber seal into the right position.
Thanks used this video to change the rear bearings on a Zipp 303 with 177D HUB, really shocked how poor quality the HUX bearings are. Looks like I had a badly installed unit, as the shim was between the two 61903's and not as a spacer gap between the hub and drive side 61903. Both internal seals on the axel where wrecked. Having seen one of your later videos I will order the NTN bearings. Thanks!!
OK to put grease on the teeth, but it should not spill over on to the articulating surfaces of the pawls( i.e. near the spring). Lubricate the articulating surface of the pawls with oil (tenacious, motor or light) so that they do not get stuck by the grease that may become contaminated over time. Also, if you twist backwards while inserting the body, the pawls will become depressed enough that they will just drop into place.
The earlier 88/188 hubs were fitted standard with carbon steel Swiss-made WIB branded bearings. Personally my experience with those has been good... very reliable and excellent performance. Not sure what happened with the 77/177 hubs... maybe the accountants at Zipp figured out how to save one or two dollars in costs for bearings on a $3800 pair of wheels.
Believe it or not these hubs are way better than their hubs from 10 years ago. I bought a set with these hubs think, “Great, they got rid of those old hubs...”. Well to make a long story short the bearing on my new wheels went out in a couple of thousand miles. (I noticed a bunch of creaking) and here I am.
No mention that sockets from a socket set are usually close enough in diameter to the special tool that buying a specific tool to press the bearings is usually not needed. Getting something deep enough to reach over the drive side of the axle does look like it'll need a specific tool though. Also, are the bearings installed dry into the hub and freehub? Only the axle gets a bit of lube from what I can see. I'd usually put a tiny bit of copper grease (anti-seize) or normal grease on the bearing seat surfaces before pressing.
Glad to have ordered some bearings from you for this very job. The wheel ride smooth thanks to the rims, but as for the bearings Zipp install, I'm not impressed. Looking forward to a properly built up wheel. Thanks @Hambini ! @Zipp >:s
Excellent video, many thanks for this! For a long time I thought that replacing bearings in my Zipp wheels is something I'd rather outsorce to my LBS. After watching your videos, I decided to give it a shot myself, even made a cheap DIY bearing press - everything went fine, all bearings replaced successfully. I bought NSK 2RS DD (rubber contact seal) and I could feel they are a bit draggy on first rides (it was actually noticeable immediately out of the box when spinning them in hand)... I pressed them carefully, only pushing on the outer race. Unfortunately only after changing them, I found out that they are actually classified according to the seal type. I understand that non-contact seal (VV) or shielded (ZZ) in NSK classification have significantly lower drag, should I rather buy ZZ ones (I couldn't really find VV in shops around here) and replace them, or is this really a non-issue and the 2RS ones I have will eventually break-in?
Hambini thank you for the video, my daughter has a set of Zipp 303 wheels, the rear has had a problem 2 times where the cassette doesn’t stay “tight” the section the cassette sits on comes loose, about the 32 min mark in your video you put a rubber ring on “under” the paws is this what holds it tight? Hers are thru axle with disc brakes if that makes a difference, have had it “repaired” twice at 2 bike shops, but worried it will happen again when she heads back to college in the fall and I am not there to help? Any ideas to help insure this doesn’t happen again????
Thanks for the technical drawings of the bearing press adapters. Hoping they will be the same for a 188 v9 hub, they use the 61803r15 bearings, and also very nice to see a video this long and detailed. If you check out SRAM's video on youtube it's very mickey mouse.
yep I machined them. I don't think rapid prototyping out of nylon will be strong enough but I am not experienced in it. The wall thickness is quite thin and needs to be accurate otherwise the bearing will cockle. I don't know what the accuracy of rapid prototyping is. If you are successful, do let me know as I would be interested!
I also notice that on the newer 188, you don't actually need to press over the axle, both bearings in the freehub body and in the shell are really close to the outside and not buried deeper.
Ok, so my LBS did a bearing swap on my freehub . . they completely cocked it up. First the bearings they added were under-sized. They came out with zero force when I detected a post service check on the rear wheel. Easier to just replace the freehub as per Zipps note. Secondly they stupidly used a seal for the 188 hub, instead of the soft rubber required for 177. If I'd tried to ride these wheels it would have been a disaster. I will never again trust them. I'd prefer to watch you . . . and get it right, by doing it myself. Thanks.
That's pretty scandalous. I think you should name and shame the bike shop. Changing the freehub is easier but it is costly. it's about £120 for a freehub and around £14 for a decent set of bearings. It sounds like your local bike shop fitted bearings that were of poor quality, hence a slack interference fit. Hambini
I have a set of 404. Last year it was slipping on some intense down pedals. I thought it was my derailuer and it might be. I torn 404 apart and the hub was very chewed up from cogs digging in. I put the hub back together being very dissappointed. I still ride the bike, but I am not sure if the chewed hub is causing my slippage. I check the derailleur and it looks ok as far as alignment. Please comment if you have had this problem.
@@Hambini i have also used the opposite method too where bearings are lubricated by oil eg turbo charger bearings. i have boiled the bearing in oil to increase clearance.
That raised Zipp logo looks like an aerodynamic disadvantage. For a company that is supposedly obsessed with aerodynamics, they'll do nothing to compromise their branding.
Great video, just serviced my own 177 hub and freehub, i replaced the axle and used enduro bearings in the freehub and hub. Once assembled it runs really smooth but the bearing to axle interface has slight play in. I'm tempted to change bearings for another brand like SKf but I'm unsure if this will resolve the issue
Hi Kieran, a lot of Enduro bearings have C3 clearance which would cause the symptoms you describe. If you changed them to CN clearance, this would probably alleviate the problem. CN clearance bearings are usually unmarked. The bearings don't necessarily have to be SKF but they are a decent make. Just make sure you don't buy fakes.
I must admit the fake bearing thought has crossed my mind, didn't buy direct through bearing supplier. Thanks for the advice on the clearance, I think for piece of mind I'll change them before I tale it for a ride
Took the decision to buy some SKF bearings after noticing andodising on old spindle worn were my previous enduro equipped freehub bearing was located, possibly similar fit issue with the hub bearings. Would you advocate using loctite bearing retainer when installing wheel bearings?
@@kieranleach8014 i've got the same problem. replaced the original bearing to a new Enduro and i've got a little bit of side play. Did you resolved the problem?
my 303 firecrest bearings are totally fine, but only after 1100km, the pawl springs are so rusty that they're stuck. I'm about to get a new hub, but was wondering how to prevent spending 100 euros every 3 months :( I'm starting to think that zipp doesn't do a good job at sealing and protecting the inner bits of wheels
Won't you inadvertently mix the greases, the ones within the bearings and that which you applied? I though one shouldn't let them mix as some greases are incompatible.
I lost a pawl when my freehub fell off the hub whilst changing a flat, can't find them anywhere, where can I purchase replacements? Great video buy the way, all the others are for hubs not fitted as standard to 404/808.
It's a disgrace that these companies are selling 'high end' wheels to cyclists with crap, cheap bearings installed for the money spent. I don't get it, as bulk buyers of bearings how much extra will they pay for branded bearings V the crap they fit. No wonder they want to sell you a complete free hub, fitted yet again with rubbish bearings, you will have to buy another one pretty soon.
steve williams I bought a set of fulcrum wheels for about $160 shipped from Merlin. The bearings failed at 1200 miles after the first light wash. I opened the hubs up and they put in these shitty single sided sealed bearings from a company named “Takino” these failed being hosed off in the shower. I ordered a set of Phil Wood bearings as a consumer and it was 28 bucks to make their wheel set non disposable. I’m sure to put extra seals in the cost would be negligible, totally just set up for planned obsolescence.
@@David.. oh ok I didn' tknow they did that. I have a rear wheel at the mo with a freehub that's completely seized up. Maybe it's the bearing but I don't think I will bother fixing it tbh, it's a stock wheel and it isn't that good quality
I like the video! What is the difference between a Chinese Brand wheel like CSC and Zipp ? Some of the Chinese wheels have brand name bearings, but what else is different ? What makes a Zipp better?
Is there a reason that you're not using the axle to pop out the NDS bearing and the inner freewheel bearing? I would love to know because I always use the axle on my Hügi 240. Turns out to be a conveniently integrated bearing remover.
hi. great video. does your freehub slide up and down if you were to move it by hand out of the frame with the end caps in place? i.e. pull on the cassette and it moves until it comes into contaxt with the end cap? mine moves around 5/10mm although once in the frame all is fine. I'm just not used to hubs having movement in them and not sure if this is normal for zipp?? Can't put any preload on these 177 hubs either as far as I can read up on/see!!
Hambini - I would love to get your take on the Zipp Cognition hubs if you're familiar with them. Mine don't have that many km's and they are starting to make an unsettling noise.
question, when installing the freehub bearings, are you able to move the silver spacer between the bearings with ease or is there a ton of resistance? -I believe i pressed bearing on the pawl side further down than you did for yours. i used the 6803 tool whereas you just used a flat surface. i think the 6803 pushes it down further than a regular flat surface like you did
I would use lithium grease. Once you are pedalling the pawls are fully engaged so they are not sliding, it's only when you freewheel that the lube would do anything.
@RollinRat I didn't think I'd find anyone whose admiration for King products exceed mine. Well, there you are! Kudos to you supporting such fine componentry and a great company. PS I bought a damaged R45 hub for the explicit reason to machine cutouts in the hub shell and freehub body, oversize the bearing seats so the hub can be appreciated, disassembled and reassembled by hand. A true thing of beauty.
@RollinRat or you could just use a hammer and a wooden dowel or a PVC pipe thats the same diameter as the outer bearing race, both are soft enough to not damage the hub, but strong enough to push the bearing out. used to pull apart crank brothers hubs that way many years ago, works fine, saves any bearings that aren't buggered and its considerably cheaper than buying tools that are often large investments for home mechanics that won't be doing this often enough to make buying the tools worthwhile.
@RollinRat True that, shimano hubs are by far the best in my opinion as well, purely because cup and cone is so easy to overhaul and reliable. Takes lateral stress far better than cartridge bearings ever will. In terms of removing bearings/freehubs, we found wooden dowels easy and a cheap way of doing it with crankbrothers hub design in the first run of cobalt/iodine/sage wheels for example. It was only getting done because the free hubs of the first lot of wheels they made were shite, kept breaking pawls and grenading themselves so all the unsold wheels needed changed to the newer free hubs when they updated it. Was easier to bash em out with a wooden dowel than risk damaging or marking a wheel with metal tools.
Hi Hambini, I have a question, yesterday I did the maintenance of the front hub on my 404 firecrest, but after pulling out the bearings, clean, degrease and all this things, I reinstalled the bearings without noticing which side I put them on. There is a certain position for the bearings? Thanks!
It's not a good idea to knock the bearings out and reuse them because they will brinnel when you knock them out. However the full sealed side should face outwards and the non contact side should face inwards. hope that helps Hambini
Great informative video, I will be tackling this job in the not to distant future. I have a machine shop at work so will get them to knock up those press tools :-) What is the press you use? I need to buy one also. Thanks
Hi Hambini I have Zipp 404s Firecrest that had the bearings replaced (one just serviced) in both wheels last summer...how do you know when it is time to have them serviced? I have done around 4,000 miles since then in mostly dry conditions. Thanks a lot!
Is Driver Body Seal direction corrent? On the manual, 'Press the driver body seal, with the smooth side facing the driver body, over the leaf spring and pawl carrier. ' Regard
are those bearings serviceable? for what ever reason my rear axle feels like theres alot of resistance when i spin it, im not sure if thats how it is by design or not.
Hi. Is that the shim washer @ 3:40. I’m sure I may of lost mine when I took off the freehub body. Will it damage the hub if I don’t have the shim. It fills ok. The freehub turns ok. Thanks
Without the shim, the spacing of the freehub pawls against the wheel hub might cause the pawls to scrape and lock. You might get away with it but personally I wouldn't run without the shim. You might be riding along happily and then find the ratchet system locks out and has your feet spinning around at a million revolutions per second.
Cool video very detailed. Quick question, I notice that your hubs are very quite I'm assuming that this is due to the mount of grease that was place inside the hub. My question is, do you ever have any problems with the prawls engaging or the hubs getting louder over time?
Hi there, no I haven't had any problems. Pawl engagement is fine although over time it does get louder and every time I service it, I notice it has gotten quieter. The thing is the grease basically turns to oil as you use it - it gets hot and eventually runs out.
Hi, you've probably got one of two issues. Either the bearing preload is not tight enough or the bearings themselves are worn. You can adjust the preload by watching this video ua-cam.com/video/vRBNkp0L2Kc/v-deo.html removing the rear bearings is the same as my video apart from the two "cinch" preload adjusters which need to be removed. Hope that helps Hambini
Every 188 rear hub has space between the axle and bearing. This is where the lateral rim movement comes from - radial play. Tightening the preload collar past the point in which it touches the bearings will just fry the bearings quickly. Putting some clear nail polish at the bearing seat areas of the axle, letting it dry, then installing, will take up the space. Any extra thickness will get scraped off by the first bearing when re-installing.
Play after 2000km… I will be an absolute dad and go ahead and say if one’s at the point where their weight savings mean they’d need a hub rebuild after literally 1/3 of my yearly commute, then that’s going too far. Obviously for racing, or competition, or whatever it’s fine, but if one just pisses this time and resources away just for the flex, I’m judging them
Instead of resting the flange (ooh er ) on two bits of wood, drill a hole in a block of wood to support the flange, and use socket that fits to push bearings out
hi, where can I get the bearing press bits? I've searched and nobody seems to be selling such press bits. Could you tell me the Sram part# for these special tool? Having so much trouble finding this tool as Sram has a few similar tools but there is no description as what wheels to use with.
@@Hambini I'm guessing I'll need the 6903 Over axel press adapter below? It's outta stock. www.hambini.com/bike-tools/hambini-6903-overaxle-press-adaptor.html I got the 6803 bearings in no problem. It's 6903 bearings that I couldn't get them in. Yesterday went to a hardware store and got me some plumbing pipes and they worked! But I still would like to get buy the pretty CNC adapters though.
Other than the slightly unsystematic, excessively casual handling of the tooling it was an enjoyable video demonstrating the bearing removal and replacement.
Bought my wheels second hand and there was so much drag backpedalling them.Thanks to your video and the shim placement all solved.Thank you so much.Was driving me crazy.
Many thanks. My freehub fell apart when changing the cassette - this video has saved the day!
You are welcome.
Very helpful video. Please keep making videos. It sounds like you have a lot of knowledge to share.
Thankyou!
@@HambiniTurns out you did have a lot of knowledge to share! 😜
I've a lot to learn. So far I've learned to leave some things to the pros. Thank you for the in depth explanations.
sitting here with my 20 years old Campa Record-C Hubs with at least 10-15k on them and they still run smooth as anything.
I have C-record hubs and Dura ace 7700 which both are beyond 100.000 km!
Always service them,clean the balls and use the white Campagnolo grease.
If that is done properly,they might live longer than we do....
These industrial rollers can’t take much axial load,so they have to be renewed
in a much shorter interval to be in good condition.And at one point they won’t
sit properly in place and you can dump them.
Back in the days we would always build new wheels with used hubs.
Today you know their lifespan is ridiculously shorter with these industrial bearings
I have a set of record hubs that have done over 60,000km since 2001. Still smooth as phuq..
As a new rider, I had a pair of Zipps (30 Course) for a year and a half... rear hub failed three times. The first time, got a flat and couldn’t get the rear wheel back on when I noticed the whole assembly kept sliding out. Uber’ed it home. Sent the wheel back to Zipp. Got it back three weeks later. A few months after, same thing happened. Back to Zipp. A few months later, it happened again. Zipp blamed (You can’t make this up!) the construction/geometry of the bike (Specialized) in the flex putting too much strain on the rear hub mechanics. Then it pivoted to rider error. In either case Zipp refused to provide a replacement. They kept the wheel for 2.5 months before it was returned. It was the LBS opinion that they sent it back to China or wherever they actually build their wheels for them to overhaul it. It didn’t matter after that. Traded the bike and the wheels in for a new bike (Specialized w/DTS wheels). Ultimately Zipp lost me forever as a customer and I’m now in the anti-Zipp crowd. I share this to say that you should provide your services in re-constructing their customer service program as well as their wheels. Lol
I've heard 2 things. There either absolutely the best wheels ever or like your experience, a massive pain. Must be some fan boys out there. You'd expect this from budget brands. Sad to hear and poor customer service.
PnlBtr I was massively disappointed because I did my homework and believed it was a well supported brand. I couldn’t have imagined their customer service would’ve been that poor. They’ve completely lost me as a customer. I’ve shared this incident with several other cyclists that I’ve meet or know and they ended up buying a different brand. Frankly the cost and competition for wheels literally demands a strong customer service platform. Sadly Zipp doesn’t have it.
@@CycoWarriorx well you probably saved me a load of hassle. Was looking into a set. Sorry you had to deal with that. It sucks but thanks for the heads up.
PnlBtr No worries. Stay safe.
This video really halped me to install free hub body rubber seal correctly. Sram manual have just a little notice but no good pictures to understand the correct position.
Also, I found back end of a toothpick fits just right for pushing the rubber seal into the right position.
Thanks for that. New set of SKF bearings installed and running smooth. Hopefully the $120 (australian) worth of bearings will hold up over time.
Thanks used this video to change the rear bearings on a Zipp 303 with 177D HUB, really shocked how poor quality the HUX bearings are. Looks like I had a badly installed unit, as the shim was between the two 61903's and not as a spacer gap between the hub and drive side 61903. Both internal seals on the axel where wrecked. Having seen one of your later videos I will order the NTN bearings. Thanks!!
OK to put grease on the teeth, but it should not spill over on to the articulating surfaces of the pawls( i.e. near the spring). Lubricate the articulating surface of the pawls with oil (tenacious, motor or light) so that they do not get stuck by the grease that may become contaminated over time. Also, if you twist backwards while inserting the body, the pawls will become depressed enough that they will just drop into place.
yup
That soft hammer must have been in the Russian revolution Hambini?
Thank you for your excellent videos buddy! :-)
The earlier 88/188 hubs were fitted standard with carbon steel Swiss-made WIB branded bearings. Personally my experience with those has been good... very reliable and excellent performance. Not sure what happened with the 77/177 hubs... maybe the accountants at Zipp figured out how to save one or two dollars in costs for bearings on a $3800 pair of wheels.
Believe it or not these hubs are way better than their hubs from 10 years ago. I bought a set with these hubs think, “Great, they got rid of those old hubs...”. Well to make a long story short the bearing on my new wheels went out in a couple of thousand miles. (I noticed a bunch of creaking) and here I am.
I’m here cause rona said I should watch more hambini anyone else ?
Who is Rona?
Hambini This bitch that makes us stay at home and stay away from our friends
You are a gifted engineer with video making skills that have improved vastly since this filming 😜 Thanks for the top tip on the NTN or SKS bearings~
Thanks for the kind words
You literally saved my life. I OWN you one!!!! MAny thanks for the video!!
No mention that sockets from a socket set are usually close enough in diameter to the special tool that buying a specific tool to press the bearings is usually not needed. Getting something deep enough to reach over the drive side of the axle does look like it'll need a specific tool though.
Also, are the bearings installed dry into the hub and freehub? Only the axle gets a bit of lube from what I can see. I'd usually put a tiny bit of copper grease (anti-seize) or normal grease on the bearing seat surfaces before pressing.
Great video. I’m gonna do mine very soon and I probably swap all the bearings as well. Cheers.
Thanks for the feedback
Does the spare box have to be blue?
Glad to have ordered some bearings from you for this very job. The wheel ride smooth thanks to the rims, but as for the bearings Zipp install, I'm not impressed. Looking forward to a properly built up wheel. Thanks @Hambini ! @Zipp >:s
Excellent video, many thanks for this! For a long time I thought that replacing bearings in my Zipp wheels is something I'd rather outsorce to my LBS. After watching your videos, I decided to give it a shot myself, even made a cheap DIY bearing press - everything went fine, all bearings replaced successfully. I bought NSK 2RS DD (rubber contact seal) and I could feel they are a bit draggy on first rides (it was actually noticeable immediately out of the box when spinning them in hand)... I pressed them carefully, only pushing on the outer race. Unfortunately only after changing them, I found out that they are actually classified according to the seal type. I understand that non-contact seal (VV) or shielded (ZZ) in NSK classification have significantly lower drag, should I rather buy ZZ ones (I couldn't really find VV in shops around here) and replace them, or is this really a non-issue and the 2RS ones I have will eventually break-in?
Radial misalignment of the camera in the opening few minutes. Unforgivable
Hambini thank you for the video, my daughter has a set of Zipp 303 wheels, the rear has had a problem 2 times where the cassette doesn’t stay “tight” the section the cassette sits on comes loose, about the 32 min mark in your video you put a rubber ring on “under” the paws is this what holds it tight? Hers are thru axle with disc brakes if that makes a difference, have had it “repaired” twice at 2 bike shops, but worried it will happen again when she heads back to college in the fall and I am not there to help? Any ideas to help insure this doesn’t happen again????
Thanks for the technical drawings of the bearing press adapters. Hoping they will be the same for a 188 v9 hub, they use the 61803r15 bearings, and also very nice to see a video this long and detailed. If you check out SRAM's video on youtube it's very mickey mouse.
Yep they should work. the bearing is the same size, the over axle dimension should be plentiful.
I also meant to ask how did you make your adapters - did you have them machined? Im thinking of rapid protyping (3d print)mine out of Nylon
yep I machined them. I don't think rapid prototyping out of nylon will be strong enough but I am not experienced in it. The wall thickness is quite thin and needs to be accurate otherwise the bearing will cockle. I don't know what the accuracy of rapid prototyping is. If you are successful, do let me know as I would be interested!
I also notice that on the newer 188, you don't actually need to press over the axle, both bearings in the freehub body and in the shell are really close to the outside and not buried deeper.
Was half expecting this dude to completely smash the wheel with a sledgehammer at the end of the video.
Ok, so my LBS did a bearing swap on my freehub . . they completely cocked it up. First the bearings they added were under-sized. They came out with zero force when I detected a post service check on the rear wheel. Easier to just replace the freehub as per Zipps note.
Secondly they stupidly used a seal for the 188 hub, instead of the soft rubber required for 177. If I'd tried to ride these wheels it would have been a disaster. I will never again trust them. I'd prefer to watch you . . . and get it right, by doing it myself. Thanks.
That's pretty scandalous. I think you should name and shame the bike shop.
Changing the freehub is easier but it is costly. it's about £120 for a freehub and around £14 for a decent set of bearings. It sounds like your local bike shop fitted bearings that were of poor quality, hence a slack interference fit. Hambini
I have a set of 404. Last year it was slipping on some intense down pedals. I thought it was my derailuer and it might be. I torn 404 apart and the hub was very chewed up from cogs digging in. I put the hub back together being very dissappointed. I still ride the bike, but I am not sure if the chewed hub is causing my slippage. I check the derailleur and it looks ok as far as alignment. Please comment if you have had this problem.
if you had put the axle in the freezer for a while, it would help the bearings go on easier by giving larger clearance due to contraction of the axle.
That is good guidance. I would recommend if anyone is reading, they follow gary's guidance.
@@Hambini i have also used the opposite method too where bearings are lubricated by oil eg turbo charger bearings. i have boiled the bearing in oil to increase clearance.
That raised Zipp logo looks like an aerodynamic disadvantage. For a company that is supposedly obsessed with aerodynamics, they'll do nothing to compromise their branding.
First check whether the caps have round holes. Some are meant to be undone with a 5mm hex key. (Ex., FSA SL-K wheels have those on one side.)
Great video, just serviced my own 177 hub and freehub, i replaced the axle and used enduro bearings in the freehub and hub. Once assembled it runs really smooth but the bearing to axle interface has slight play in. I'm tempted to change bearings for another brand like SKf but I'm unsure if this will resolve the issue
Hi Kieran, a lot of Enduro bearings have C3 clearance which would cause the symptoms you describe. If you changed them to CN clearance, this would probably alleviate the problem. CN clearance bearings are usually unmarked. The bearings don't necessarily have to be SKF but they are a decent make. Just make sure you don't buy fakes.
I must admit the fake bearing thought has crossed my mind, didn't buy direct through bearing supplier. Thanks for the advice on the clearance, I think for piece of mind I'll change them before I tale it for a ride
Took the decision to buy some SKF bearings after noticing andodising on old spindle worn were my previous enduro equipped freehub bearing was located, possibly similar fit issue with the hub bearings.
Would you advocate using loctite bearing retainer when installing wheel bearings?
@@kieranleach8014 i've got the same problem. replaced the original bearing to a new Enduro and i've got a little bit of side play. Did you resolved the problem?
@@luciano_ozuna changed to SKF and there was no movement evident
my 303 firecrest bearings are totally fine, but only after 1100km, the pawl springs are so rusty that they're stuck. I'm about to get a new hub, but was wondering how to prevent spending 100 euros every 3 months :( I'm starting to think that zipp doesn't do a good job at sealing and protecting the inner bits of wheels
7,777th viewer! Love your informative videos Hambini, thank you.
Quantum auto Tech thanks for the feedback
You can use the axle with suitable spacers to install the bearings . It’s threaded so use it
Won't you inadvertently mix the greases, the ones within the bearings and that which you applied? I though one shouldn't let them mix as some greases are incompatible.
I lost a pawl when my freehub fell off the hub whilst changing a flat, can't find them anywhere, where can I purchase replacements? Great video buy the way, all the others are for hubs not fitted as standard to 404/808.
I have never seen them sold separately, the best solution i can think of is purchasing a second had wheel from ebay.
I have seen replacement pawls on eBay.
Thanks for the video and tools, just serviced my zipp 30 course wheelset without any problems.
You are welcome.
Very nice video but forgot to grease inside the hub 👍
It's a disgrace that these companies are selling 'high end' wheels to cyclists with crap, cheap bearings installed for the money spent. I don't get it, as bulk buyers of bearings how much extra will they pay for branded bearings V the crap they fit.
No wonder they want to sell you a complete free hub, fitted yet again with rubbish bearings, you will have to buy another one pretty soon.
steve williams I bought a set of fulcrum wheels for about $160 shipped from Merlin. The bearings failed at 1200 miles after the first light wash. I opened the hubs up and they put in these shitty single sided sealed bearings from a company named “Takino” these failed being hosed off in the shower. I ordered a set of Phil Wood bearings as a consumer and it was 28 bucks to make their wheel set non disposable. I’m sure to put extra seals in the cost would be negligible, totally just set up for planned obsolescence.
@@David.. How does one know when a "bearing" in a hub has failed? Is there a certain noise? Side play?
@@smallhatshatethetruth7933 in this case these were completely seized up. Typically grittiness and a groaning noise while rotating is a good sign.
@@David.. oh ok I didn' tknow they did that. I have a rear wheel at the mo with a freehub that's completely seized up. Maybe it's the bearing but I don't think I will bother fixing it tbh, it's a stock wheel and it isn't that good quality
"taptap tappy tap tap..." - AvE
I like the video! What is the difference between a Chinese Brand wheel like CSC and Zipp ? Some of the Chinese wheels have brand name bearings, but what else is different ? What makes a Zipp better?
How many miles or kilometers needed before you service or repack the bearing is it 2000 kilometers thank you sir
Is there a reason that you're not using the axle to pop out the NDS bearing and the inner freewheel bearing?
I would love to know because I always use the axle on my Hügi 240. Turns out to be a conveniently integrated bearing remover.
Crazy! For a £1000+ wheel you'd expect to be getting the best. Who knew!
yeah, they're getting the best margins, you're getting played
Thank you for sharing!
perwiratempur thank you and you are welcome
hi. great video. does your freehub slide up and down if you were to move it by hand out of the frame with the end caps in place? i.e. pull on the cassette and it moves until it comes into contaxt with the end cap? mine moves around 5/10mm although once in the frame all is fine. I'm just not used to hubs having movement in them and not sure if this is normal for zipp?? Can't put any preload on these 177 hubs either as far as I can read up on/see!!
hi, yes it does. It might be a bit tight but it is designed to slide. The only thing holding it would be the friction from the seal.
great thanks that's exactly what mine does. panic over!!
Thank you!
Do the NTN 6803 6903 still fit the latest firecrest 303 404 wheels?
Hambini - I would love to get your take on the Zipp Cognition hubs if you're familiar with them. Mine don't have that many km's and they are starting to make an unsettling noise.
question, when installing the freehub bearings, are you able to move the silver spacer between the bearings with ease or is there a ton of resistance?
-I believe i pressed bearing on the pawl side further down than you did for yours. i used the 6803 tool whereas you just used a flat surface. i think the 6803 pushes it down further than a regular flat surface like you did
It should be firm not a load of resistance
@@Hambini ok, I dont think I pressed it in too hard. I stopped once I felt the bearings wanted to stop, but it's pretty difficult to move the spacer
Hambini really needs an assistant.
Hi Mr. Hambini. Kindly requesting if you could review a Gosico, Onyx or Box Stealth rear Hubs. Thank you! Andeng from the Philippines.
Question ?
i have a industry nine Torch hub - has 6 ratchet Pawls
what Lube to use ?
thick grease like you or 0w -20 synthetic oil ? in the Pawls
I would use lithium grease. Once you are pedalling the pawls are fully engaged so they are not sliding, it's only when you freewheel that the lube would do anything.
Do all hubs with cartridge bearings need similar presses? Can you buy universal presses relatively cheaply? I don't trust my LBS to do it!
Yes they do, they are usually over axle. A tried and tested way to do it is to use 1/2" long sockets!
Dear Hambini, are these bearings suitable for zipp 302 with 11 speed freehub?
if you gonna remove the bearing with a punch, make sure you replace the bearing
Good advice. If pulling out on the inner ring, it's advisable to change the bearing.
@@Hambini is there a way to remove the bearing without damaging it to the point of replacement?
@RollinRat I didn't think I'd find anyone whose admiration for King products exceed mine. Well, there you are! Kudos to you supporting such fine componentry and a great company.
PS I bought a damaged R45 hub for the explicit reason to machine cutouts in the hub shell and freehub body, oversize the bearing seats so the hub can be appreciated, disassembled and reassembled by hand. A true thing of beauty.
@RollinRat or you could just use a hammer and a wooden dowel or a PVC pipe thats the same diameter as the outer bearing race, both are soft enough to not damage the hub, but strong enough to push the bearing out.
used to pull apart crank brothers hubs that way many years ago, works fine, saves any bearings that aren't buggered and its considerably cheaper than buying tools that are often large investments for home mechanics that won't be doing this often enough to make buying the tools worthwhile.
@RollinRat True that, shimano hubs are by far the best in my opinion as well, purely because cup and cone is so easy to overhaul and reliable. Takes lateral stress far better than cartridge bearings ever will.
In terms of removing bearings/freehubs, we found wooden dowels easy and a cheap way of doing it with crankbrothers hub design in the first run of cobalt/iodine/sage wheels for example.
It was only getting done because the free hubs of the first lot of wheels they made were shite, kept breaking pawls and grenading themselves so all the unsold wheels needed changed to the newer free hubs when they updated it.
Was easier to bash em out with a wooden dowel than risk damaging or marking a wheel with metal tools.
Sir what the best bearing you recommend for mtb tnx sir
Very comprehensive, do you find Zipp wheels are fitted with cheap bearings? Also have you ever encountered spoke rub?
Hi im wondering is there any chance you could tell me what bearings I need on rear 188 zipp hub? Thank you!
Can you do a video on DT Swiss Spline 370 I'd love to hear if there half decent or not
scott morris all i know is that they do not have the ratchet system found in the 350 and 240s, which i see as a little disadvantage
Hi Hambini, I have a question, yesterday I did the maintenance of the front hub on my 404 firecrest, but after pulling out the bearings, clean, degrease and all this things, I reinstalled the bearings without noticing which side I put them on. There is a certain position for the bearings?
Thanks!
It's not a good idea to knock the bearings out and reuse them because they will brinnel when you knock them out. However the full sealed side should face outwards and the non contact side should face inwards. hope that helps Hambini
Great informative video, I will be tackling this job in the not to distant future. I have a machine shop at work so will get them to knock up those press tools :-) What is the press you use? I need to buy one also.
Thanks
I use a press that I made, thanks for the feedback.
Hi Hambini I have Zipp 404s Firecrest that had the bearings replaced (one just serviced) in both wheels last summer...how do you know when it is time to have them serviced? I have done around 4,000 miles since then in mostly dry conditions.
Thanks a lot!
@RollinRat Thanks for that
Is Driver Body Seal direction corrent?
On the manual, 'Press the driver body seal, with the smooth side facing the driver
body, over the leaf spring and pawl carrier. '
Regard
Install the seal, with the groove on the seal facing away from the driver
body, midway over the pawls, so that they stay compressed.'
Nothing like knocking one out. 😉😉
after watching this one would understand how Shimano's Dura Ace free hub is infinitely better....
I'd agree. I have a set of Dura Ace hubs that I never touch. The Zipp hubs have not been touched since I put decent bearings on to them.
yep agree! I have Zipp 30 Course wheels (use the same 77/177 hubs) and they definitely leave a lot to be desired when compared to the Dura ace hubs.
Campy hubs are even better.
@@brucewayne3141 how are campy hubs better?
are those bearings serviceable? for what ever reason my rear axle feels like theres alot of resistance when i spin it, im not sure if thats how it is by design or not.
problem is each bearings by itself spins ok but when the axle is in it doesnt spin well at all.
where do begin if i want to learn to become an engineer like you? i am 57.
mmm... I don't know how to even respond to that question!
Dont. Enjoy your retirement
ahh... the voice of encouragement. you must be british, or canadian
@@jen3800 Bengali Texan.
Do 177 end caps also fit on 176 hubs??
i have RS81 wheels with shimano hubs..where can i get these bearings? wheels are 5 years old and need bearings to be replaced...
They are Shimano specific I'm afraid.
Hi. Is that the shim washer @ 3:40. I’m sure I may of lost mine when I took off the freehub body. Will it damage the hub if I don’t have the shim. It fills ok. The freehub turns ok. Thanks
Without the shim, the spacing of the freehub pawls against the wheel hub might cause the pawls to scrape and lock. You might get away with it but personally I wouldn't run without the shim. You might be riding along happily and then find the ratchet system locks out and has your feet spinning around at a million revolutions per second.
Hambini than you. I will order one
Is this how engineers take apart stuff? I was cringing all the way. Haha
if it doesn't budge, get a bigger hammer.
no need for a special tool: just use the old bearing on top of the new bearing and a threaded rod that goes thru with nuts and washers and voila !!!
frank burn that won't work when the axle is in the way. you need something to go over it. for the first bearing, your method will work
Is zipp freehub 177 fits to zipp 1080 wheelset
Where can I get the freewheel seal from?
My freehub doesn't just pull out like yours. In the video you state 'if you're lucky it will just pull out' any tips for if it doesn't?
You'll have to tap the axle. Or a healthy dose of freeze spray should sort it out
@@Hambini thanks!
Cool video very detailed. Quick question, I notice that your hubs are very quite I'm assuming that this is due to the mount of grease that was place inside the hub. My question is, do you ever have any problems with the prawls engaging or the hubs getting louder over time?
Hi there, no I haven't had any problems. Pawl engagement is fine although over time it does get louder and every time I service it, I notice it has gotten quieter. The thing is the grease basically turns to oil as you use it - it gets hot and eventually runs out.
Hi Hambini - what is the bearing press you are using? Thanks
it's one i made
Very useful videos and like the honest opinions. If you had to buy a commercially available bearing press, which would you go for?
Where can you buy the bearings?
Guess you have to remove the end cap when installing the cassette as the tool won't fit over it ? Thanks
Yep I had to do that.
I have 404/rear wheel makes cli cli noise over 10 mph l have replaced the bearings and seals any help or advice would be helpful
Martyn Maskell ntn bearings?
What is the purpose of the spacer in the freehub?
Hey man! Do you know any fix on how to eliminate that sideplay on the 188 V8 rear hubs?
Hi, you've probably got one of two issues. Either the bearing preload is not tight enough or the bearings themselves are worn. You can adjust the preload by watching this video ua-cam.com/video/vRBNkp0L2Kc/v-deo.html removing the rear bearings is the same as my video apart from the two "cinch" preload adjusters which need to be removed. Hope that helps Hambini
Every 188 rear hub has space between the axle and bearing. This is where the lateral rim movement comes from - radial play. Tightening the preload collar past the point in which it touches the bearings will just fry the bearings quickly.
Putting some clear nail polish at the bearing seat areas of the axle, letting it dry, then installing, will take up the space. Any extra thickness will get scraped off by the first bearing when re-installing.
Where did the PDFs for the tools go?
Play after 2000km… I will be an absolute dad and go ahead and say if one’s at the point where their weight savings mean they’d need a hub rebuild after literally 1/3 of my yearly commute, then that’s going too far.
Obviously for racing, or competition, or whatever it’s fine, but if one just pisses this time and resources away just for the flex, I’m judging them
Dude you could do with a blind bearing puller
I wish you'd point the camera towards what's actually going on
Odds of fixing your Google Drive links, above, are???
Zero. I can make the tools however
This guy knows his stuff but man buy some tools and a working table won't hurt either.
where do i get the press tool?
I no longer make it I@m afraid.
@@Hambini discontinued I'm afraid
Would be nice if the camera angle showed what you were doing…
Why the punch? Pop the axle back in the other way round.
Why do technical manuals recommend a bearing puller? There aren’t many things more satisfying in life then knocking out a bearing with a punch.
Instead of resting the flange (ooh er ) on two bits of wood, drill a hole in a block of wood to support the flange, and use socket that fits to push bearings out
hi, where can I get the bearing press bits? I've searched and nobody seems to be selling such press bits. Could you tell me the Sram part# for these special tool? Having so much trouble finding this tool as Sram has a few similar tools but there is no description as what wheels to use with.
You need a 6803 and 6903 press. You can get them from www.hambini.com
@@Hambini I'm guessing I'll need the 6903 Over axel press adapter below? It's outta stock.
www.hambini.com/bike-tools/hambini-6903-overaxle-press-adaptor.html
I got the 6803 bearings in no problem. It's 6903 bearings that I couldn't get them in. Yesterday went to a hardware store and got me some plumbing pipes and they worked! But I still would like to get buy the pretty CNC adapters though.
@@WanderingSword they will be back in stock on Sunday. Unfortunately they have a habit of selling out.
@@Hambini great to hear that you yave a good problem on hands :)
I think you forget the insert sleeve
And the lesson is don’t buy Zipp, they have always had a reputation for shit hubs, cheap and nasty. Unacceptable on a premium wheel
You were such a nice young lad. What happened? ROFL....
2000 kms and it’s fkd . That’s about 1 eu per km or slightly less