DIY Laser Cutter Air Filter
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 січ 2020
- DYI air filter for the K40: In this video we create a DIY air filter for the K40 laser cutter.
It is build from easily accessible materials and much cheaper than the commercial versions.
BLOG: wayofwood.com/diy-air-filter-f...
AIR INTAKE ON THINGIVERSE: www.thingiverse.com/thing:411...
=======
Tools/Supplies Used:
- Axial fan: wayofwood.com/tool/axial-fan/
- G4 filter: wayofwood.com/tool/g4-filter/
- F7 air filter: wayofwood.com/tool/f7-air-fil...
- F9 air filter: wayofwood.com/tool/f9-air-fil...
- Activated carbon: wayofwood.com/tool/activated-...
- Door rubber seal: wayofwood.com/tool/door-rubbe...
- Round rubber seal: wayofwood.com/tool/round-rubb...
- Toggle latch: wayofwood.com/tool/toggle-latch/
- Festool Rotex 90: wayofwood.com/tool/festool-ro...
- Prebena pneumatic nailer 2XR: wayofwood.com/tool/prebena-pn...
=======
VISIT our website:
wayofwood.com/
=======
FOLLOW US on Social Media:
Instagram - / wayofwood
Twitter - / wayofwood
Pinterest - / wayofwood
Thingiverse - www.thingiverse.com/wayofwood
=======
Loved the commentary AND the fact you tested the system at the end. Gave me a lot to think about. Thanks!
Thank you!
Great job. I have a few suggestions. Install an additional active carbon filter. From time to time you should substitute the older filling and alternate the filter. Put the fan on the clean side. You could also install a flow meter or a differential pressure gauge.
Great ideas.
Thanks for video and the ideas. I haven't built a filter box yet, but I've been researching it.
Regarding the smell of Acrylic, I've used a 50W Epilog Laser cutter with a professional vent system, and there is always a lingering smell from the laser bed, and on the edges of the cut plastic. I don't think you can make it smell free, just vent the room more afterwards.
I've been researching using a duct fan, and the Tjernlund EF-10 10" duct fan, while having 475 CFM of air movement, only has about 0.14 inches WC (water) of static pressure (you can find a graph in there specifications PDF on their website). I've loosely calculated static pressure losses of the ducts, elbows, and filters I'm thinking of using based on some internet page numbers and would need about 3 inches WC of static pressure to work. I'm not surprised you need a better fan.
I saw on UA-cam a fellow measured his shop vac's static pressure using a tube bent in a U shape, halfway filled with water, and he got 78 inches WC (the difference in height of the surfaces of the sucked water column). But the CFM won't be as high as the duct fan. I'm in Canada and would *love* to get my hands on a Dewalt DXV12P-QT quiet shop vac ("-QT" means 60db), but they are only available at the moment from Lowes US.
My other idea is to get a 1 hp dust collector, and just use the blower part of it as the fan for my filter box. Some of the comments on one particular brand indicate they think it is quiet, while other brands are not so quiet.
Regarding the filter size, I think bigger is better. If the fumes zoom through your activated carbon fast, there isn't enough dwell time for the carbon to do it's job. Larger size means the fumes will linger around the carbon longer. Maybe a larger size with thinner layer?
A pretty good start to a laser filter. Here are some thoughts.
1. My 60 laser has a 6" outlet on the back of the machine. I would increase your duct to 6".
2. I would increase your filter area so as to allow the air to slow down and get the really dangerous particulates pulled out by the carbon.
3. Put a lower quality filter to catch any carbon particles that leave.
4. Put the filter in between the blower and the laser. If you don't the blower will get dirty and raise the potential for bad things to get into the air.
5. Reduce or eliminate the spacers around the filters, the waifer board is restricting your airflow.
Thanks a lot - very good suggestions!
You can try passing the air through water, absorbs particles well, easy to replace too, this is commonly used in mining vehicles. My old VW Beetle (1962) air filter had an oil soaked metal mesh. Both of these should be simple to build (don’t use oil though, use water) but make sure the air is spread over a large area to make tiny bubbles, soap in the water will make a nice absorbing foam. I’ve seen filter “socks” used in exhaust gasses from some dirty processes. The sock was inflated by the exhausting gasses/ dirty air and was made of a special material. You could make your filter layers into tubes, each one larger diameter than the one before it. Exhaust into the smallest one and the material tubes will all inflate, especially if they hang down. Won’t stop the smelly gasses though but will be compact. Nice videos.
This adds a lot of humidity to the air. I don't know what that does to laser cutting, but some manufacturing processes are heavily affected by humidity.
@@DaniGirl6I just got myself an engraver for my own use (I also run one at work) so I was interested by this. I believe a check valve would be a must, to lock humidity out, even a two stage or at least a drain that can be opened before the machine. It's unlikely that a small amount of water in this system would become a problem, especially if there's always a force pulling it away while the system is open. At work I'll regularly soak the paper adhesive covers on the bottom end of thicker acrylics (1/2 to 1inch) to prevent it from catching fire while it cuts. It does create a lot of steam, so a properly configured air pull and air push (air assist) is a must. In my experience, even modestly humid wood can still engrave just fine, it may require an extra pass (with the first pass clearing out the path of excess moisture), for smaller runs at least. I'm sure there are more sensitive situations where corrosion is a bigger factor (where iron may be etched or cut)
Verry sick Workshop and Tools, love that 😁🤙🏻
Thank you!
Interesting video. These things are normally extremely expensive. I will be trying a version of this, for use in winter months when I don't want the air sucked from the room. Looking forward to version 2.0
It's such a great improvement - especially in February when it's freezing cold outside.
The filter is quite cheap compared to the commercial versions - the activated carbon and the fan being the most expensive elements.
I am really hoping to get some input for a version 2.0.
I am considering building one even though I have 6" ducted to the outside through the wall. Reason is that in order to vent properly one must have make up air. Well if the weather is nice outside, not too hot or too cold or too humid, I can just open a door, but since my workshop has no windows and is in the basement, opening a door is not that great an idea. I don't do much acrylic, but when I do, the smell lingers even though it is vented outside. If I can cut without make up air that would be ideal.
I have an idea though that instead I can drill an intake hole in the wall and duct it to the laser with a shutter on it that can be closed when not in use. It is a 60 watt that will soon be a 100 watt when the original tube gives it up. I can add an intake fan to draw air in and force it into the cabinet then the extractor can pull the smoke and fumes out and hopefully not smell anything.
I guess you should use E10 filter for metal particles. Love the video. Will do one for my fiber laser. Also if the flow goes from the filters to the motor (protection of the motor) why not put the activated carbon first ?
If the air flow is pushed through the filter how does it go with time? I am very curious on your project. May be a more detailed video would be great. thanks for sharing.
Take everything I say with a grain of salt as I am only experimenting and no expert. 😏
My logic was that the active carbon filters mainly smells while the filters remove dust particles. With the active carbon first it might get clogged up.
I will post an updated version of the filter at some point in the future. I think it requires some more active carbon and some tweaking in order to get rid of acrylic fumes...
Thanks good idea
I saw one DIY filter using 3 Pet Wather in sequences and a FAN on front inserting smoke on first wather pet and exiting one to another 3 times... after 3rd wather bothe the air exits clean.
Very in depth
🙏 Thanks 🙏
Awesome video & fabulous comments. 2 questions ::
- are there water air filters, where air is injected into water to bubble and get cleaner?
- do high voltage electric fields also clean the air by catching particles?
I honestly don't know - I am not a filter expert...
For my opinion there is no need for a G Filter in a laser cutter but the H Filter is missing (H13 f.eg.). A flame stopper in front of the filter system may be useful. That’s the combi I’m using
Thanks for sharing your setup. Regarding the G filter I was also unsure - we will see after a few moths if it catches some of the fumes.
A Hepa filter could be good to add.
What is the role of a flame stopper? I have around 1m aluminium hose between laser and filter. When a flame manages to travel that far I might have a different problem. :-)
@@WayofWood A tube length of 1m may be enough to cool down any particles. I only have something about 30cm so I was a bit nervous at the beginning. I just add some metal netting in the tube.
Thanks. That's a good idea.
what do you recommend for spark protection?
a metallfilter from an extractor hood@@peterfarkas943
This is really interesting. I made almost the exact same box about 6 months ago and I'll give you my feedback just so you have it.
The biggest big of advice to start is buy an off the shelf filter cartridge from a big company. I am building my 2.0 and will be using the Bofa AD-350 Pre-Filter and Combined filter.(Fumex and Pace make similar filters, sure there are more too) Almost all of the technology that is important is in the filter. Why not leverage that for a cheap cost. (the cartridge is around $200)
This is almost a tie for the biggest. Ditch the axial fan. I used a similar fan and they are not designed for high pressure. They are great for high CFM and low pressure. Think circulating are. Instead, get a scroll or centrifugal fan. They are designed for ducting and high pressure. You might not get the same CFM, but remember that the advertised CFM on any fan is un-blocked/restricted. The second you throw a thick carbon filter in the way, you'll be lucky if you get 10% of the CFM on an axial where as the scroll will likely deliver 80-90%.
Lastly, (not really important) I am going to get an air sensor and hook it up to an arduino so I know when the flow drops. There are a few ways you can do this but this is just because I am a weirdo.
I'll post my build once I finish and share all of the CAD files incase anyone else wants to build it. I might get a sheet metal shop to build a few parts for mine but can easily do it with wood.
Hope this helps and good job with the video.
Thanks a lot. This is super valuable insight. Looking forward to your documentation of the build!
@@WayofWood So I am not nearly as good at documenting as I am at breaking things. I just finished the build. I will test for a week to make sure it is doing a good job and then post the 3 different configurations I built and let you (and anyone else that reads this) the info I have gained.
Brandegee Pierce Looking forward to it!
@@WayofWood Done. ua-cam.com/video/P8zQIargAF4/v-deo.html
HALLO I LOVE THIS, CAN WE USE ANY TYPE OF EXTRACTOR FAN OR IS THERE A POWER DIFFERENCES?
The one I used is already borderline weak and I am considering to rebuild the filter with a stronger fan with more throughput.
A very interesting project. I did something similar with a Xiaomi Mi Air Anti-Formaldehyd HEPA-Filter in a box and a radial fan, but I didn't do a measure of the fine dust yet. Could you please post a linkt to your fine dust measurement device ? Thanks a lot.
amzn.to/3CzjXGK
Thanks for this video, I’m planning on buying a 100w laser and build your filter. Would you be willing to update the links please? The one with the 3D model seems dead.
Thanks for letting me know. The link should work now.
WayofWood great thank you! Any plans for V2.0? If yes please include files for the CNC ;)
Hello, I think version 2.0 will be an "endless story"!
Have you ever measured the pollutants with version 1.0?
The question is whether the air flow was sufficient and the filter surfaces are large 🙂?
LG Kuno
What kind of filter do you use? And would this work for a bigger machine ?
All the filters can be found in the written article (link in the description). I am not an expert and just experimenting - don’t know if it would work for a bigger machine.
I liked your work. I could build one that is smaller but works on a 10 or 30w diode laser with a 40x40cm cutting area, a lot of people are buying this type of laser and don't find an efficient and cheap smoke collector to buy, at least not here in Brazil. There is only one for large equipment and high prices.
gostei do seu trabalho . poderia montar um que seja menor mais que funciona em uma laser de diodo de 10 ou 30w area de corte 40x40cm, muita gente esta comprando este tipo de laser e não acha um coletor de fumaça eficiente e barato para comprar , pelo menos aqui no brasil não existe so tem para equipamentos grandes e preço alto.
Sounds like a good idea!
Thanks, just what I was looking for! I'm still venting outside, but don't want the stink to ruin my neighbor's cookout. Your refillable carbon box is just the ticket; $300 filters every 6 months to a year isn't for me.
My thoughts on improvement was to shorten the space between the 'hepa style' filters. I read that carbon needs dwell time, but regular particle filters can be stacked. Take care and happy Thanksgiving.
I have a question! Does this filter absorb the ravages of lasered wood and acrylic? Acrylic in particular stinks so bad that the whole neighborhood smells of it.
Lokus Pokus It reduces but doesn’t eliminate the smell of acrylic. I guess I will one day try to add much more of the active carbon to see if this makes a difference.
Maybe re-think think this a bit. This isn't a laboratory with a reaction happening that produces large volumes of gasses. The cutter can be put in an air tight enclosure to hold onto the dirty air. Now there's more time to process it and can use a much lower power recirculating filter system. Wouldn't really have to be more than a roomba sized filter and like a GPU centrifugal fan depending on how long you can leave it alone for. The particles will settle down and can be vacuumed away later. The VOCs are more concerning to me, so I would keep the activated carbon fresh.
That medium filter system system more for a small but continuous operation of two or three machines, rather than a hobby level running one machine.
Good point - but getting the China case really airtight might be also quite a challenge on its own...
@@WayofWood The silicone sealant for windows and the weather sealant for windows could be an option to try. I don't think there would be much of a pressure difference from the inside and outside. Just need enough to keep the inside air mixing with the rest of the room. Even HVAC tape might be enough. If there is some expansion, stick a large plastic bag on the side that can inflate. It will keep the pressure down so the seals don't need to be as strong thus cheaper, depending on how much expansion there is. Not like holding a pressure is desired anyways.
How i can use this Acrylic Laser Cutting without bad smell? Please tell me step by step
I might do a video on a new design at some point in the future - stay tuned...
Hi, thanks for the video
is this filter also helps on reducing the burnt smell from the laser job?
especially for the acrylic one cuz the smell is disgustingly terrible
It helps a bit but it doesn’t completely eliminate the smell. I have already a bigger bag of activated carbon here to see if this improves the situation
@@WayofWood thank your for the response :D
lets see if bigger bad of activated carbon can help reduce it more
@@WayofWood Did more active carbon help?
I have not yet tried it.
@@WayofWood okay, I'm gonna build a filterbox of my own with G3 and G4 felt, a 10cm thick HEPA H7 and carbon pellets. I've only ordered 5 liters (so far), not sure how much it's in weight but hopefully it'll help at least some. Will vent it outside, it's for the neighbors
Very useful thanks. Is there a reason there's a decent gap between each filter or can we can shrink it to maybe 25mm for packaging concern?
It’s all based on gut feeling. Most likely you can pack them tighter...
What about the smell when cutting plastic materials?
I like your filter, but, I think the way commerciall filters are designed is easier to construct and maintain. You just need to make stacking frames and boxes.
I think the smell comes mainly from the fan not being strong enough to pull all the air through the filter. I will most likely rework the design in the coming months.
So how does the Filter work after over a year ?... Any pro/contra?
It works - but the flow rate of the fan I have used is a bit too slow, As the enclosure is not air tight some smoke gets out of the enclosure. I have already a new fan sitting in the corner to redesign the filter - just need to find the time to do so....
Great job on the filter. But 7:12 ... please use a push stick
Thanks. My hand is actually around 10 cm away from the router - it might look closer scarier than it is...
@@WayofWood I was actually referring to 7:15 where your middle finger looks to be about 6mm away from the router bit =). I only point this out because I once thought I was safe as well on a table saw where I was only cutting half way into the wood, so the blade wasn't even exposed. However, right when I was finishing the cut, my finger slipped off the back end of the wood, right into the blade... Just a quick BZZZ... split my finger tip like a snake tongue and nicked my bone. Anyway. How do you like your filter so far? I am going to be making one soon with the hope that I no longer have to vent outside and can successfully filter 100% of particles and gas.
Is there a specific kind of wood that you used for this project ? Or can you use any wood.
I used OSB for the box and plywood for the filters. You could use any kind of material as long as it is dimensionally stable (so don’t build the box from solid oak or pine 😏)
@@WayofWood thank you , for the sake of gaining knowledge why is solid oak or pine not a good idea?
Solid wood is expanding and contracting with changing moisture of the environment. This would widen the gaps of the box.
In plywood the wood fibers go in different directions and therefore cannot move.
@@WayofWood great knowledge thank you very much .
Welcome. ;-)
Looks like a great idea, but if you still smell the acrylic and other smoke, which you say you do in the comments below, then you may be taking a big health risk using this.
How did it work out long term?
So-so. There is still some smell and I am planning a version 2 of the filter...
How long can i use the filter?
last week, after using the laser for 2 days, a sieve in the suction tube was clogged. now i'm skeptical of how long a filter will last.
Good question - I don’t know the answer.
@@WayofWood After 8 months can you answer this question now :? I'm curious about the long-lividy of the filter .
The filter is still fine but the suction of the fan is not strong enough to pull a lot of air through the filter - I will most likely rebuild the filter with a stronger fan...
@@WayofWood But was it like that from the begining or the suction got less powerfull with time (whch would suggest the filter got cluged ) ?
PS. Thank you for the reply :)
No - the lack of suction is due to the fan I used - not die to the filters being clogged
Dumb question, maybe, but can’t you cut through 4mm plywood with the laser cutter??
Yes. But the size of the sheet does not fit the K40 bed. You could however create a template for the router on the laser cutter.
WayofWood Ah, that makes sense! I’m just beginning to explore the potential of buying a laser cutter for my home shop - I haven’t begun to price out bed sizes yet so don’t know the common sizes, yet. Thanks for making this video, the filter looks amazing!
@@stayathomebob1219 Thank you. If you want a real laser cutter (not only an engraver) the K40 is the lower end of the spectrum with 20x30 cm bed size. You can get a K40 for around 400€. Whenever you double the bed size you will also at least double the price point...
Why don't you just cut a hole in the wall and pump the fumes outside? If your using this inside where is the spark arrester to stop any sparks and debris that is still burning and gets sucked into the filter, that could fester there for several hours before it catches fire. I have to admit its a credit that you want to control the fumes but I think from a fire risk point of view the whole unit should be made out of metal, if you look at any fume extractor or HVAC unit in industry they are all made of metal. Yours should be for fire safety.
Manny from the Philippines. Thanks guys. Makin my own now. Having the same problem with my neighbors. I mean the smell of cut acrylic.
Thats a very interesting point.. i will consider having an aluminum sheet lining for the first stage of filtration.
easier to make a cover for the window, with no gaps - just the outlet pipe. An air filter gets clogged fast, always needs replacing, costs money, and stinks after awhile.
That was my approach in our last home. Now my office is under the roof and the roof windows are difficult to work with.
Unless like me you live in terraced houses where pumping out into your garden stinks out your neighbours and comes back into the workshop
is there a 2.0 version yet? does this system eliminate the visible smoke? could we use cheeper filters before the activated charcoal in order to eliminate the visible smoke ?
Not yet. The non-youtube part of life keeps me quite busy at the moment... ;)
Why not just use the laser cutter to cut boards with the 4 X 4 holes? Why use the laser to make a template when 4mm ply shouldn't be a problem to cut on the laser?
They are too large for my laser bed. You could create a router template on the laser and then cut them manually
Thanks for the greay explanation: please, normalize the volume of the audio, the table saw noise make me dizzy and my left year isn't working correctly since the audio becames
Thanks for the feedback. Normally I tune down the noise but sometimes one clip slips my attention...
Hi did you make a new version?
Not yet ... But it's still on my list ...
@@WayofWood would be interested to know how the filtering went and if you would do anything different
I think the main two things I will change is get a stronger fan and add more activated carbon
Is there any smell when cutting acrylic ?
I made a Carbon only filter with 5 KG active carbon after a particle filter and still smell
There is a smell when cutting acrylic. This is however (at least for me) also the case when venting the exhaust out of the window.
The gaps in the case of the K40 are anything but air tight and the air flow of the fan is not strong enough to create such a strong suction that all the air would go through the filter.
I might have to cut acrylic after sealing the gaps...
@@WayofWood I did close the seals for most of the gaps
air is now sucked in from the bottom and there is no other left open ( only the fan )
im using a bilge blower on 12V to aid the internal fan
tip for sealing: use pipe insulation tubing ( cheap and easy to work with ) for the fan mount
all small openings have been sealed off with flexible seals and where needed some silicone
I would think you'd need more carbon for the exhaust to pass through to remove VOCs. Was just watching a video for replacing the filters on a pretty nice unit (expensive I'm sure too), and if I recall correctly, it had 40lbs, roughly 18kg of activated carbon in its chamber. A hepa, some fine filter, and a bag at the beginning for the large debris.
Chad Voller That‘s a very good idea. I already have some more carbon sitting on the shelf as I didn’t expected 5kg to be enough.
Do you have a link to that video?
@@WayofWood sorry im not doing videos ( yet)
I have the laser in my shed ( its winter here) but pla to move it to the attic and then vent via the roof , but still filter
the way I made it is following
use the bilge blower in the lower part of a dual box ( ikea storage boxes pushed together ) in the bottom of the second (top box) I made several 5 cm diameter holes ( many) , then a mesh over that on top then the active carbon. in the top cover a vent hose
so basically the smaller particles get filtered out before the bilge blower using a fine mesh
simple, but effective
If you have a shop vac , you could put the activated carbon inside its canister instead.
Good idea!
I like that bud good jop
but I just wanna know air quality results without charcoal , dont need to make video , you can do a test with and without charcoal and write down results in reply here ,thank you alot
The charcoal binds the fine particles. Without it it will smell much more.
@@WayofWood So there is no other cheap way to save environment from polycarbonate smoke , only activated charcoal would keep it clean ?
@@WayofWood I mean if its smelly but not harmful to environment without charcoal is this possible ?
That's at least my experience
You need more surface. With more surface there would be less impact on the flow of air.
Is that really the case? I understand that more surface would stay longer open (less clogging). Why would the surface make a difference for a fresh new filter?
why is there no hepa filter?
Good question. You could add one if you want.
@@WayofWood yep i will . already ordered the filters i need . a g4 pre filter then a f9 bag filter an hepa h13 filter and the carbon thingies . hepa filter is the most expensive filter in the set . hope that works :)
🤞🤞🤞
@@WayofWood what is the size of the box that fits the 5 kg carbon? i might try 1 of 8,5 kg
We bohr 4 holes - ich feier Dich ;)))
Why didn’t you use your laser to cut the parts!!!
The size is too big for my laser bed.
Using a cooler would save a ton of time making a airtight enclosure. Just drop you filter in and fans