do not buy blower editions graphics card from any brand
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- Опубліковано 11 лют 2023
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#gaming #games #gameplay #gpu #repair #nvidia #amd #fix #fixed # - Навчання та стиль
I would recommend the owner of that card to undervolt and underclock it for longevity.
Yes, undervolting is a must with these blower cards, imho.
I would recommend that he/she slaps a waterblock on it if they really want to get long life out of it. If it's a reference design (which most blower style cards are), then it shouldn't be an issue.
@@benjaminsmekens2344 i wouldn't buy a waterblock for a card that could die again at any moment
I'm still using a blower style rx 470 since 2018, and undervolting makes the gpu drops from 80 degrees to low 70.
@@viniciuslisboa8864 My first thought was undervolting. Nice to see that your card is working after 5 years.
I had a Geforce 6600gt. It had a small heatsink that you would see on a 486 and the card got hot all the time. It would hit around 100C and shut down. I tried cooling it by opening the case and putting the pc in front of a window A/C. This created condensation and still wasn't enough to keep the card cool. I ended up buying a Zalman aftermarket cooler and installed it on the card. The temps went front 100c to around 45c full load so I guess that was a success.
Bro i had a 6600 GT in like... was it 2005? Paired with an AMD Athlon 3000+ It was the first PC i built and had the exact same passive cooler you are talking about, it was a Gigabyte card. I played Doom 3 and Far Cry with that thing LOOL the memories
zalman weird ass coolers helped a lot of gamers in the mid 00s haha
Awesome results mate
I had a 9600GT and found that ran hot too when overclocked
@@spicesmuggler2452 I was still rocking an ATi 9800 Pro around then lol
”it's dark, it's dry around the edges"
Asphalt
Good stuff.. Just a tip you can get these to show which module is bad if it passes mats by looping mods test 94.. I always loop the same test with a 1000mhz oc on mem after a module replacement to sniff out any potentially close to failing modules.. Also you can slowly raise the oc starting at around 500mhz to find modules that aren't healthy as they will start failing.. In my experience a healthy module should at least do 1ghz oc without errors.. Hope it helps you out it took me 3 months of trying different things to come up with a decent strategy.. Anyways love the videos keep up the good work..
Thats a good tip but i dont think its best to replace all then to replace one.
I always offer customer an option with a warning. They make this decision, not me.
If it was up to me, i would replace it all.
@@northwestrepairI agree in my experience they'll usually last a month or so before another acts up but yeah it's absolutely best to swap all of them is it has the 2018's.. If the customer can't afford to replace them then I will use the method in my last comment..
@@BanksRacing11 my man 🤝
@@northwestrepairwhat is that monolithic fin stack called you used to cool it with tony?
@@northwestrepair If you were to replace all of them, how much would it cost?
Blower cards are great long term value as long as:
a) case is adequately ventilated
b) case and GPU are cleaned somewhat regularly
c) GPU is not overclocked
Greatest value comes from GPU being strictly within 1 or 2 slots, which means they are guarantee to fit anywhere, and they are very valued on second-hand market as something you can throw anywhere, most importantly into home-server for transcoding or remote gaming
It is ALWAYS bad. 1 fan = no redundancy. The heat sink is always anemic. The only good thing is it blows the hot air outside the case. But if the case is well ventilated, it is useless. And the new gen nvidia OEM card have the fins pointing toward the back of the case, meaning a standard cooler is pushing hot air outside the case too.
@@PyromancerRiftDual card configs remain a necessity for high-end compute workloads, professional super high resolution footage editing (10k+ can easily lead to vRAM paging, which kills render time and timeline responsiveness), high-resolution Blender rendering and ray tracing, and even certain CGI workloads, not to mention the whale in the room that is large AI compute. Cutting edge LLMs push 130 billion parameters and beyond, video generation is brutal just in general, high-res art generation is still done in batches of 20+ images to get a "good" result or 2, all of these easily occupy more vRAM than even a 4090 ships with, which means you need 2 GPUs in an NVLink configuration (16+16=32, 32>24). These kinds of workstations are also usually trying to cram NVMe drives, U.2 caddies, capture cards, audio hardware, and more into the same PCIe area and we'll be potentially adding NPUs and DPUs to that mess in the near future, so dedicating all 8 slots to just fitting a pair of 4090s inside the PC case isn't happening.
@@PyromancerRift whatever, some heatsink on blower design are really really good.
Love these videos. Have you done any where you explain each step of the process, especially around removing and resoldering components, what the different fluids and tools are etc., for someone who has no idea what you're doing?
This is exactly what I was thinking about
Greetings from Australia watching your video on the way to work on the train. I have owned several blower style cards from a 780to to a 1080ti and my last was my Gigabyte RTX3080....temps were high so I zip tied a Noctua 80mm fan directly on top of the fan of the blower card pushing more air through the card. I achieved an 8 degree celsius temperature drop going from high to low 80s on the memory hot spot ...so a win in my book.
Keep up the great work.
Love your channel, gathering the cards I have and going to start playing with them. Great instructions.
Thank you for the heads-up on HP "Fake Copper".... who knew? Well, you did. Now we do too. Thanks again!
I have an EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid and after several years the pump started becoming really noisy so I decided to replace the entire cooler with an aftermarket cooler, the Accelero Xtreme III for around $60. It's an awesome cooler and was well worth it. Temps and noise were actually lower than the hybrid cooler.
Trivia: HP usually makes the "OEM" cards that you see in prebuilt PC's, like this one(which ironically uses the same shroud as the hybrid design of the MSI Sea hawk cards)
HP does not have engineering or manufacturing capability for these, it's commissioned by them from one of the actual graphics card companies but doesn't match the cards those would dare sell to retail under their own brand, trimmed for cost. This card comes out of HP PC of course. HP also doesn't make PC mainboards (usually Foxconn) and it doesn't make laptops either (that's usually Wistron, Compal etc)
@@SianaGearz my last TRUE pc from HP were a desktop (VECTRA) and a laptop (no remember which series it was). They're still good(ish), but those new pc are not true HP anymore.
The more frequent uploads are working my friend! Keep them coming and soon you will have 40,000 subscribers i can see it already ;)
I think what we'd all like to know is: what graphics card do you use on your personal PC at home?
Awesome video as always mate!
I did have an awful cooler on a really old gigabyte card (I think it was back in the fx 5800 series, so almost two decades ago). The fix was to grab some wire, get some isolation tape on it and hook up one extra 80mm fan to blow over the fin stack.
I don't see why something similar can't be done in this case. As long as you can get the air moving over the fin stack, and heat pipes are contacting the core and the sink, it's a question of volume of air going through the fins. Pop off the shroud and install a couple of fans on top. You can probably use a splitter to power the fans from the card directly, or you can just put them on a separate controller powered directly from the PSU. If hanging the fan on wires is not acceptable, you can probably drill some holes in the fin stack to attach the fan directly to the fins.
The shroud will obviously need to go, so the pusher fan will be less effective, but it's hard to see how replacing it with a couple of extra fans won't make for much better air flow through the fins. The only important part is to make sure you don't accidentally drill into the heat pipes. Brute force is generally a good solution as long as you apply sufficient amount of it :D
Better to clean the card, apply new thermal paste/check thermal pads sat...and then UNDERVOLT!
5:48 Maybe it's overheating because I never saw the fan speed % go over 57% in GPU-Z. Maybe you can try to manually set the fan speed to be higher and it'll go down in temperature.
I have heard of users swapping out the blower style cooler for an aftermarket one being a water block for water cooling the card or a normal one that has fans on it and it worked out very well.
Thank for letting up know. As these cards get cheaper the get more and more tempting, but these warnings keep us well informed.
As someone who has/had a 2080ti.MSI blower card... Do NOT buy these cards. They are so insanely loud and constantly hit peak temps around 85° C unless you throttle them and at that point, what's the point of having a card capable of pushing Ultra settings? Buy the better cooled cards. Just bought a 4070ti gaming Trio version and I almost forget my PC is on now lol. Used to be I'd put headphones on just so I didn't have to hear the GPU and case fans desperately trying to keep the GPU below 85°C 🤣🤣
I wonder if the card can be improved by lower thermal impedance to heatsink. A copper shim for memory to bridge some thickness and fill out the rest of the thickness with thinner pads. Thick pads even higher quality ones have that much more thermal impedance. But i understand depending on warping it has its own risks as well. And long into its life, the memory is so pre-damaged that it may be futile.
There are videos were ppl removed/cut the back plate to improve air exhaust. Reducing temp by 5c.
0:49 that's real copper, but the nickel plating is mostly gone for some reason (it's possible someone even tried to lap it).
Also not the original pads. Someone was in there to repair/repaste before, and made a mess. Regardless, those blower cards are terrible thermally anyway.
Looks like the card was assembled to the cooler and the pads where hanging down.
Nothing terrible at all. I prefer blower-style for my GPUs (doing 3D-renderings with 100% load)
@@SuperSuperka thermally speaking, 3D renderings generally cause far less heat compared to gaming loads which are far more transient in nature (and constantly loading the VRAM), so blower cards are far less of a problem in those circumstances. Also allows for cramming more cards into the case with blowers, assuming you can take advantage of multiple GPUs for your rendering.
There are circumstances where blowers work fine, but for the majority of consumers, blowers are going to be poor thermal performers by comparison. You _can_ make a blower perform similarly, but not at noise levels anyone would want to have sitting next to them.
@@bjn714 You are wrong. far more, not less. I never had issues with temps/noise in games, but doing tweaks in Afterburner for rendering (for 3080Turbo).
Good Job fixing it!!
I kinda noticed something bout certain cards...
Run 2080ti/1080ti under high load a bit and look it with thermal camera. Explains better then I can with words (sorry not native English speaker).
Solution is eliminate hotspots near certain memory modules.
Extra thermal pads under backplate (card hotspots) and but some memory radiators on right place on backplate (or fan to deal with hotspot temp).
Other way is msi afterburner etc, just but fans on high speed for gaming/graphic intensive work.
Been using msi 2080ti for 2 years or so.
Old miner that has seen some load. Got for bargain after it failed.
Same error43 and same memory chip as on card in video :)
Faulty chip changed, themral grizzly pads and paste, hotspot 60-65c max full load :)
Years ago had an ASUS GTX 1080ti Turbo. Changed the shroud a little bit and temperatures dropped almost 10 Celsius (from around 80 to around 70). Removed the DVI connector and made room for the air to go out. Opened a little hole on front-top of the card to let the air go out easier (not towards the motherboard, of course). It wasn't easy but I got some good results. Some blower cooling systems have the turbine with thick blades and they perform well if the flow of the air is rectified properly. Those with thin and medium blades are really bad and they usually are noisier. On top of this sometimes there's barely any room for the air to go out of the computer case because of too many video connectors blocking the path.
I always look at the cooling solution before buying and then typically I end up putting on after market cooling. I do that despite GPU manufacturer claims about what thermal limits are safe. I don't believe them and I want a lot of overhead cooling room.
It looks like a reference design by default.
A Waterblock would probably save the card, but a entire watercooling system would cost way more then what the card is currently worth.
So your back in the old shoes you started from.
Water cooling can be very risky.
Too many people kill their GPU just by changing thermal pads. Imagine they kill them installing water blocks too 😮
@@northwestrepair lol even more reason to recommend it. If we break, you can fix it! 🤣
Absolutely love watching your videos. If i ever break a card I want repaired, you are the first person I think of, as i have learned from your videos and Northridge, to NEVER do it yourself if your an armature without proper tools.
Hey, great to finally see 3Dmark for testing! If the card can finish it, then it's definitely good (for now).
For now 😂
@@northwestrepair I mean, recurring customers are the best customers, right?
But in all seriousness, 3Dmark is a must. I had cards passing MATS memory test, Furmark and all Unigine benchmarks but crashed only in 3Dmark and certain games. Probably something to do with DX12.
Their stress tests are particularly useful - I had an overclock I had to remove because it kept crashing with Port Royal stress test , annoyingly after 15/20 of the runs
Man it must suck being an owner of one of these cards with the micron memory, all that money and they have high failure rates and no company will step up and fix them when the problem is so well documented.
First of all, when the problem is known, you ask someone to see if your card has that kind of memory chips BEFORE they got broken. If your card has this type of memory chips you ask someone to modify the cooling system to properly cool everything that needs cooling in your video card. This way you'll probably have no issue and you'll be able to use your video card for many years.
That's insanely hot, even with that vapor chamber cooler. Thanks for making this video.
you are impossible. you are blessed . Excelent job dude
I undervolt all my cards. Everthing running so far… 970rtx (MSI), 1070rtx (MSI), 2070rtx (gainward), 3070gtx (Asus). … still have some ATI/AMD 7970GHZ, x850XT… Voodoo2,3,5. The only card that failed on me was a 9800Pro with little use (have to figure why) and a Voodoo3 with memory problems. Always good cooling and no overclock. i always pick the cards that run cooler, not faster. Love your channel, learning a lot. Cheers from Brazil
2080ti was a nightmare. i did rma 4 times and get the 2080super once hit market. remember the space invaders? but still a good cards. blower stile was never a solution but did work for years on certain applications.
2080ti was faster but the super was the superior card! The supers gave that generation a lease on life that meant it could compete well against the 30 series all the way upto the 3070
I once had an asus turbo rtx 2080, of course it was very hot in standard operation. With an adjusted fan curve and a headset you get the temperatures under control
Darker paste makes me think of AS5, but I didn't think they sold that paste anymore and that seemed to clean up a lot easier than AS5 ever cleaned up for me.
Liked, subscribed and here’s the comment 😂 hopefully see more your stuff 🎉
nice work as usual!
Try slapping the an Accelero Xtreme IV on it and it will improve the temps by a good healthy margin.
And yes. HP i have read many forums of people complaining about the quality of the parts put into their OMEN systems. TBH I'd salvage the card, and do this repair you did, then salvage the CPU, SSD, and possibly RAM and build around that. Getting a good name brand board, cooler, PSU, case, etc watercooling (Corsair is my pick H100i or similar). I'm sure with this setup I'd get alot more life out of it than using HP's cheap undercooled parts.
I keep getting signal lost on my HP omen 30 L. After a series of driver updates, AMD had an update for the CPU, and I think Windows had a slew of updates, some of which did not install properly. I had to do a lot of hoop jumping to finally get the card to behave again because it was sporadically crash any time card was stressed. Lights, fans, everything else is lit up inside the case still going and I could even hear sound from whatever I have been playing. It wasn’t overheating but I think mine was a corrupted file issue in relation to the above mentioned updates. I kept updating a bunch of stuff until it started behaving itself again, but I’m still not sure I’m out of the woods. Just keeping an eye on it for now, but Prior to this the PC was running fine and I have never had a problem with it at all. My biggest problem with HP is they want to charge $300 for you to ship the computer to them no matter what’s wrong with it. I have not had the system three years yet but I’m out of warranty. And when you get it back, the problem may or may not be fixed according to what I’ve read on some of the forums. Seems like many others are having similar issues. I’ll never buy from HP again.
the whole point of high temp design its to burn out your card so you buy a new one, most manufacturers do this. I still have my 1070 when was released, so from my check i got the micron memory too, but still works never had any problems, temps are under 70C, got a gigabyte gaming one
I replaced the blower on my Titan X Pascal with a NZXT cpu cooler mount and H110i for the core, and copper heatsinks for the memory and other hot components. It runs so much better now.
It used to reach tjmax within 5 minutes or less and thermal trottle down to 1600mhz, now I have it OC at 2050 and it stays there, under full load for hours, it stays at a chilly 40C now
this card fan curve is mostly culprit of the temps as i've had same model looked exactly but it was a dell alienware one, undervolting and getting a custom curve mostly solved the high temp issue at least for me at that time and with the stock pads
Very interesting video! Thank you!
Great work!
You had an 8 bit error on D0, in my experience this is a cold solder/ BGA error, not a dead memory chip, even when the thermal pad is missing. Probably the chip is still good, had a lot of top right corner memory errors on reference 2080ti PCBs. But yeah, 8 date code Micron is really that bad, probably wort replacing all, but usually they go with replacing one and in worst case quickly selling the card :(
You can always water cool this card or use another cooling solution I have done cooler swaps on cards before. If all else fails you can always under-power the card some to get the heat down to reasonable levels.
Smashing it with the content of late 👍
I am using the aftermarket Raijintek Morpheus II on a 1080 Ti blower card. It works really well, although adding the many thermal pads and heat sinks is confusing.
I watch you and northbridgefix to learn from your experience some things to complete my interessting in compute hardware. All in one people like you are true hereos for me, becouse i do not would produce more electronic waste than i did in my live with computers in 20 years. Salve
I used to replace turbine cooler for my GPU in the past, it took extra slot but thermals and noise greatly improved. Nevertheless, GPU became obsolete not even 2 years later :D
I had a Dell Radeon R7 250 that had a fan failure. On a whim, I put a dual-slot cooler on from a HIS card of some sort.
Not only did it run much cooler, I could overclock it as far as Afterburner and Radeon software would let me - RAM and GPU - and it stayed quiet.
Awesome video
Good to know, Cheers.
I replaced a stock blower style cooler on a RX470 with an MSI GTX1660 super cooling solution. (had to cut away a piece to be able to connect the pci-e powercable)
After that my card was running about 10-15 degrees celsius colder and with much less noise.
Do you think this card has a vapour chamber design? I had a 1070 turbo from asus, it was blower style and vapour chamber, it ran really cool and quiet. Then again this 2080ti has 100W more TDP.
HP only cares is it lasts through the warannty. They probably cross their fingers and hope it dies the day after.
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS
Thank you amazing video.
Blower style fans are so dope if you have a vertical gpu set up literally just shoots heat up
Yes that works brilliant. Had a few HD7970 back in the days, all was OEM/radial cards which overheated and earraped almost the whole time. I put Accelero Extremes and Alpenföhn Peter on it, or used other coolers that fitted from really defect cards+Zombiemodded them with 2 120mm fans and Temps+Loudness reduced significantly + the cards never showed any signs of memory errors especially under heavy Load anytime again.
So yes: Before you buy a complete new graphics card and can get your hands on a 2080ti cheap or for a reason you should definitely consider aftermarket coolers or even "modding" them if the design lets you do this and it fits your case, because most of them aftermarket coolers or strapped on fans are then way bigger/thicker than before.
For example: Almost every 30-series card i came across could be very easily freed from the plastics and "design matters most" fans. Strip 2*120mm on it, throw it back in and "Boom", at least 20°C, if not even more in lower temperature and therefore even the Boostclocks got higher or the OC was way more effective for a 15€ mod.
As long as you don't need that Design in a Showcase-Computer break the plastics apart, remove the fans and strap on some good 120mms. Card, ears and performance will get better ;)
i.imgur.com/gzdtqaz.jpeg
i have used arctic coolers and they work wonders. of course they arent compatible with every card but when they are, i prefer them to cheap coolers by far but not a big fan of thermal glue for putting aluminum heatsinks on the individual memory chips
I had an rtx 2070 with the exactly the same heatsink but made by MSI aero and i manage to buy a different heatsink at alliexpress. The duke msi model that fits exactly with this model and it works like a charm. Not noisy at all and it kept the temp down unlike the blower which i hate a lot
blower theoretically should be better as cooler because its directional, you can easily take advantage of that to design a better heatsink for that directed air flow, the problem is where at air is going, to the io shield where the output port is blocking the already small window for air to come out, whereas for direct fan design, the fans just blow the air everywhere where there is already a good amount of airflow which is the whole pc case
I have heard that with these cards they are basically stock Nvidia PCBs and you could get a PNY heatsink for them. I haven't tried that with my 2060 yet but I noticed the HP 2060 has the same PCB as the lowest end EVGA 2060 which may be a viable upgrade.
He can also try to water cool the card so that it can live much longer than with that turbo cooler design
I had replaced the heatsinks of my Radeon HD 5770 and Radeon HD 7970 with Accelero coolers from Arctic. Those where pretty decent in all areas.
Great video! I agree, blower coolers just aren't as good. I think they are alright on lower power cards, though these days most cards pull a lot of power.
I put a heatsink and fans from a 770 on a Zotac 1080 TI that used to have a blower fan. IT dropped the trmps 25 degrees
The first "Blower" GPU that I owned was a BFG GTS250. Sad BFG doesn't make GPU cards anymore. It was hella of a GPU for what it was and kept my room warm through the winter. Never had any trouble with it. I thought it was great since it pushed all the heat outside of the case. My next "Blower" type GPU was a GTX1060 and again never had any trouble with that either. Heard the 20XX series had a fan mount problem in shipping where it was easily broken
BFG doesnt exist anymore either for that matter...
I had two of those BFG cards too. Sadly, a shorted MSI motherboard took them out. Right after they closed up and MSI refused to warranty the board or the damaged video cards. I still do have them in a box. They're too pretty to throw away...
What you and your skill set do is black magic and I've never witnessed such amazing voodoo in my life. Yeah, subbed.
I have a couple old rx480s with blower style coolers and they run really hot too. Would setting power or temp limits in MSI Afterburner make them last longer?
Of course. Undervolt and underclock would definitely help. Or modify the cooling system. Use an AIO liquid cooler and fit heatsinks to the VRM and RAM
If there was an endless stream of these videos with smooth jazz playing in the background it could be a good replacement for my weather channel addiction from the '90s
Like a skilled surgeon you prevent miscues by clearly marking the chip requiring action. This is clearly the sign of a professional. I always enjoy watching you work miracles and learn from your vast expertise. Thank you Tony!
Just ordered a bunch of new micron xfor a 2070 ti i have. It was my kids . Did one memory chip . Ran good for a couple months. Now back to error 43. I am going to replace all of it and see if things improve.
Thats interesting regarding the turbine cooler as you call it, performing so poorly. I have 2 asus rtx3070 turbos that run very cool, cooler than my other cards - i belive as they use a heat chamber heatsink that sinks the memory and gpu, not just a plate. The downside is they are dam noisey, it sound like a jet taking off in your pc! But hey, they do run cool...
You're talking out your as s blower cards are garbage and always will be.
By reballing the memory as well as elsewhere, seems to deliver a lot more performance than out of the box brand new.
I had the 1080FE ( blower card ) which i used for VR for roughly 3yrs and it ran flawlessly, also had an ATI blower years ago which also ran flawlessly for about 5yrs - both cards were perfect when i sold them :)
Should figure out something about thous microns stuff full recall should have done years ago when it was released.
Hm, I've had a 780 Ti Founders Edition and 1080 Founders Edition. All blower coolers. They have been running fine for years and not much noise.
Do you feel the same about the quadro blowers on the a2000, a4000, and a6000?
tbh I got my 1080 from an alienware dell computer and it ran the last 5 Years without a problem but I also dont stress it much with just casual gaming in the mids
by default they run at a lower curve, you need to adjust the fan curves in afterburner.
UV and UC, then remove the plastic cover and add two fans on the same heatsink.
Is memory frequency ever an issue for you when you replace the chips?
Well I had a Gainward GTX 260 Golden Sample Goes Like Hell Edition and that one was loud and quite hot (about 84 degrees with the stock cooler).
Replaced with an Accelero Extreme Pro GTX, which did make it go from 2 slot to 3 slot and 2 fans to three while making it from a 26 cm card into a 30 cm card....but it made the Card whisper quiet while dropping temps from 84 to 64 degrees.
So with good case fans (120s silent ones with LEDs) and this cooler I had a GTX 275 Equivalent GTX 260 that was whisper quiet and held up for a long time.
Not the first one I did, the first one was the first GPU I bought, the Galaxy Geforce 6800GT (PCIE), the AGP Version had a special version using a custom coloured Arctic NV5 Silencer, which wasn't available on the PCIE version.
I talked with their german distributor and they'd agreed to send me the Cooler with the Graphics Card and even let me keep warranty.
Card was great and quiet....I had it until I replaced it with a 8800GTS 384 that I got from a friend for cheap, just at the time the 8800GT 512 came out. (Was a very poor apprentice back then.)
Was a great card and the original 6800GT/GU was a GT on Ultra niveau limited to 500 Worldwide.
Well I guess I had something even rarer back then, although I never realized and sold it back then, and even the PCIE version was OC'ed to that level even though the cooler was the standard nvidia one. So I had one Geforce 6800 GU PCIE.....of which I don't think too many existed, given how surprised they were at my question.
I have rtx 3060ti from HP and it's a two fan model. 30 and 40 series cards are no longer blower style from HP.
hello, what thermal pads brand do you recommend? i bought an used 3070 and the thermalpads are dirty and dry that practicaly desintegrate. thank you.
The one in the video
Well, yeah, unless it's cheap and you want some stock-ish basis for a water-cooled / fully 3rd party cooled mod. Which is an edge-case of edge-cases, I know. :D But I did it with 2 cards. Arctic makes their Accelero (Xtreme) series, and it was a great replacement for 290X & 1080. Granted, at that time it was double in size compared to the factory coolers.
ooof the dreaded 2000 series with Micron was baaaaaaad. FYI I put an Arctic Accellero cooler on a blower style 1070 and converted it to an open air style cooler. It worked pretty good.
I have a 208p to turbo from Asus. The memory temps keep going to 100ºC at stock
But I just need to change the fan curve with MSI and dammm works just great.
I keep the core at 70ºC and the memory at 87ºC it could be really better but the blower style make a lot of Lise despite the cooling. In this curve the fan goes up to 70% at 270W.
But I can set the fan to 100% and it can sustain incredible 49ºc on core and 60ºC on memory. But the noise dammmmm
I only paid 190euros so no problems at all lol
I got an Asus 2080 ti with a blower for a good discount. Put a water block on it and flashed the bios for the water cooled version to get better clocks. Been solid😊
afterrmarket heatsinks actually work great i've had nothing but good experience with brands such as Arctic cooling.
sadly they stopped, selling Gpu coolers but they had entire kits, not just a heatsink for the gpu but also for the memory and Vrms etc...
Zalman, Arctic Cooling, my assumption is there are others now, that can provide proper coolers for gpus, but i've learned which brands provide absolute the best coolers.
For GeForce and Radeon RX/WX cards that are sold in Blower form, one's best bets would be to opt for Arctic and Raijintek's heavily interchangeable GPU Coolers and Heatsinks that can make use of CPU Fans in order to substantially bring down the 1080 Ti/2080 Ti TURBO and Vega cards; these would require the Accelero Xtreme IV or Morpheus 8057, though it must be noted that Arctic has put the Accelero Xtreme IV into End of Life status (officially it only supports up to the 2080 Ti) and there hasn't been a successor thus yet to support Navi, Ampere, Lovelace, and onward, these are effective options nonetheless and probably will serve far better than Hewlett~Packard, Dell, and Lenovo's coolers any day of the year.
The RTX 3090 and 3090 Ti (as well as potentially the Lovelace Era up to the 4090, due to having incredibly similar layouts) are officially supported on the Morpheus 8069, and while it will turn virtually any card into a 03.50 to Quad Slot if the CPU Fans used on it are too big in Depth, keeping the cards Undervolted will potentially be a saving grace to further improve its impact, especially for those who will use it in AI workloads that truly push the card to its limits thermally on other coolers; while I cannot vouch for the Quadro cards, which also run on a Blower, it would be nice to see if somebody could look into Arctic and Raijintek's products to determine if it is worth using over the Metal Blower that has been present, the L6000 (RTX 6000: Ada Generation) is a major card of discussion on the subject due to its noticeably low coverage at the moment (kind of expected for a 6800$ USD product though) and wishfully there will be some noticeable results that may help us consider if something such as the Morpheus 8069 makes enough of a difference to purchase it alongside what is already a hefty investment to improve its longterm usage.
Tbf, they're workable with enough effort. I had a reference RX 5700XT. With liquid metal and some UV it dropped 20C under load and was much quieter.
Hey my man, how do you know what thickness thermal pads to use? I have an EVGA 2080 Black Edition and can't find info on what thermal pad thickness to get. Furthermore, on the cards where I have found info, those cards used multiple thicknesses of pads, depending on the place they were applied. My card is about 5 or 6 yrs old now, so I'm pretty sure a pad and thermal paste replacement is probably in order for it.
Hello, may i ask what is the safe temp for gpu and vram? my gpu usually stable at 75 for gpu and 85 for hotspots while benchmarking.
@northwestrepair I have a blower card, it isnt the blower itself that is bad at cool it is the stock fan curve. They set it to be quite not actually cool so I set a manual curve and it rarely gets over 65C it is a 2080ti turbo
. . . With heat pipes, we make sure to have processor at the bottom, then heating flows up into the heat pipe and mercifully on to the heatsink . . .
The first thing I would do with a blower card is pitch the blower. I would get a three fan cooling heatsink that was somewhat close to fitting. The guy in Manila Philippines put back on a super thick pad on the mosfets and drivers And I believe I would take that off and put one of those thin aluminum heatsinks with fins on the back. He speaks Philippine but speaks enough and puts in enough English that I know what he is up to. Instead of putting badly water damaged cards straight into a sonic cleaner he uses a scalpel and carefully removes the corrosion. He seems pretty efficient in getting cards to work and does memory chip removal cleaning one half with copper braid and instead of reballing the other half he just leaves the small mounds of solder from before. He never fails on getting the cards running when he pulls the memory but Krisfix in Germany sure does a better job reballingl
I have an EVGA GTX 1080 in a 5-side-mesh SFF case that runs Furmark 1080p default test at mid-60's temps.
I'm hoping I'm a lucky exception to this rule.
I bought a used pny 1070 blower for 250 bucks and man that thing got hot. I had to repaste it and set a very aggressive fan curve for most games. I think the only think that kept it going was that I had a side fan(HAF 912 case). I’ve since upgraded to a gtx 1080 dual fan then to 6950xt but still have the case. I can’t seem to let it go.
Please make a tutorial on how make and use gpu memory test usb drive.
I had a 970 Blower and aside from the noise it worked till covid hit and then I sold it. I always kept 73c on the core.
Would the cooling improve with a deshrouded card and better fans?