My kia rio 2006, has been giving me trans issues lately. Some u start it up and it drives normal, sometimes u start it up press accelerator, engine revs but no movement. U need to turn it off and back on before u get movement. When this happens and u shift to reverse or drive there is a huge jolt and clunk sound.
@@kaytube5645 have it scanned. I’m betting there’s some line pressure codes in there. Pump is probably going bad in the trans. Likely will need a rebuild/replacement.
@@RiggsCo yeah i got a P0745 code. Pressure control solenoid valve. It happened again today, i got on a hilly environment with speed rumps, after crossing the first speed rump and stepping on gas pedal, car revved but did not accelerate , had to shift to neutral and back to drive before i got movement.
It’ll just hang from the column/tie rod ends. You could tie it up with a bungee cord or something I’d you really wanted it supported, but it’s not really necessary. It’ll just hang there.
Hey Suleyman, you’ll be able to tell by looking at a couple things. Biggest one would be an ABS pump under the hood near the brake master cylinder. Can’t share any pictures here but it’ll look like a big block with brake lines going to it from the master and then out to the individual lines. It will have a big electrical connector on it. The second way to tell is to just look at the spindle, there will be a two wire ABS sensor bolted to it. Any other questions just ask! Thanks!
It was slipping and the customer kept driving it until he lost all forward and reverse engagement. We replaced it with a low mileage used unit from a local junk yard.
No problem bud! They’re not bad, this one here had 200k miles and was still ticking along just fine. Transmission was the only major repair he’s had to do since he’s owned it. I’ve seen plenty of them make it over 1/4 million miles with proper maintenance. Best thing about them is parts are cheap and they’re easy to repair. 👍
@@RiggsCo awesome thank you very much, ill keep mine till it gives in under proper maintenance, I want to see how far it can go, I also turned on the bell icon, so I don`t miss any of your new content
Hey, looking to replace the clutch, bearing, fork and slave in an 06 rio. was planning to pull the engine and leave the transmission in the car for the job. Any suggestion/warning? is this a reasonable plan?
Honestly it’s just easier to drop the subframe and pull the trans out the bottom. Had a similar discussion with another viewer on the same thing, and I do believe he ended up dropping it out the bottom. You could do your plan, and be fine, but when it comes time to get it back together you’ll find it’s a lot easier to wiggle and maneuver the transmission around than it is to do the engine on a sling, even with a leveler. It’d be a PITA to line up the splines on the input shaft and the clutch disc. Just my 2 cents!
Hey Ramon, if you’re talking about the torque converter bolts those are accessed through the starter hole yes. You can do it before you drop the subframe or after, but you’ll have a little more room to work with if the subframe is out. Put the trans in neutral and you can turn the engine over at the crank pulley and turn until you see one through the hole, remove and repeat. Theres 4 of them and they’re 18mm if I remember correctly. 👍
I have a Kia Rondo with over 300,000 on the original trans. It has an internal "clunking" or "thumping" internally until it warms up fully. I still works well otherwise for the most part, but I know it can't last forever. So I got a low mileage trans from the wrecking yard like you did. (I guess any trans is "low mileage" compared to mine..Lol) and I'm doing the swap myself. My question is: do I have to remove the subframe to remove it, or is there another way? ( Like an Overhead hoist) I can drop the frame, but would prefer not to if possible. But, if I have to, I will. Thanks for you Video!
You’ll have to drop the subframe unless you want to pull the motor and trans together out the top. Way easier to just drop the subframe. 👍 Thanks for watching!
Book time I believe is 5.3hrs or something like that. Add up to an hour and a half for parts transfer, filter, and pan gasket. About 6.8hrs book total. Most shops are $90-$100/hr labor. I am $60/hr and charged $400 flat for this job 👍
@@RiggsCo Yeah I have watched a few videos on replacing the clutch. And from what I have been reading I can lower the subframe about 2 inches and that would be enough room to scoot the transmission out of the way to do the job properly. I was thinking I would replace the rear main seal while I'm in there. So I have a good floor jack and large piece of wood, but I was hoping I could lower the subframe, but not remove the bolts completely.
@@tommygomez5343 don’t be afraid of it, it’s WAY easier to just remove it. It’s not “kill ya” heavy lol just get it supported, remove the 4 bolts (be sure everything else is off of it) and lower down slowly. You’ll have to go slow anyway to work the sway bar around the steering rack. But it’s really not a big deal. You’ll want the space. Its as good as gold lol
Good afternoon Sir. I have a 2007 Kia RIo and the transmission oil is dirty as all hell. Do I just drain the oil from the trans oil pan plug and refill ? Does it have a trans filter that needs to be replaced? I want to see if I can do it to save money.
You can either drain and fill or drop the pan and replace the filter that’s inside. Up to you. If you’re having any shifting issues though a fluid change likely won’t help anything.
@@RiggsCo What happens is that when I press the brake and try to accelerate after , the car starts to rumble and shut off. Damn thing is driving me crazy.
No need to take anything off of the engine besides the air filter box and intake tube. Take the battery and battery tray out along with that intake and you’ll have plenty of room to access the upper bellhousing bolts and all the electrical plugs on top of the transmission. No need to unbolt the throttle body or anything else related to the engine. 👍
No problem! And yup, that’ll work just be careful not to hurt the transmission case or the axle seals. I like to use two pry bars on either side of the axle stub and apply even pressure. They usually pop right out, if not rotate the axle a little and try again. 👍
Yup it’s about the same only a little easier you’ll have less wiring and won’t have to worry about any torque converter bolts after you pull the starter out obviously. You can pull the engine and trans out the top if you want but if you have access to a support bar to hang the engine dropping the subframe and pulling the trans out the bottom is just as easy. 👍
@@RiggsCo would pulling the drivers side control arm give you enough room to drop the tranny enough to change the clutch? Dropping the subframe seems like a PITA.
@@misconceptions1381 doubt it the input shaft is probably 5” or so deep into the clutch/pressure plate so you’ll need to be able to go back far enough then down and you won’t have enough clearance without taking the subframe down. Watch the video again, it’s really not hard. Unbolt all your PS cooler line hold downs if you have them, drop the ball joints on both sides, unbolt the sway bar links on both sides, you don’t have to undo the tie rods like I did since the rack stays in the car, then it’s 4 bolts holding the subframe in. Lower it down while you twist the sway bar up and around the steering rack and it’s out.
@@misconceptions1381 if you have the engine hanging, you can lower it down a little giving you a bit of an angle (or less of an angle depending on if you’re using a trans jack or just bench pressing the trans in and out) making getting the trans back on easier. Should slide back on no problem all you have to align is the input shaft into the clutch disc and the dowels on the bell housing. Can lube the input shaft (SLIGHTLY!) to help ease it in, also keep the trans in neutral, that’ll help. All goes back together the way you took it apart. Any hang ups you had on disassembly you can plan for and think up some ways to make stuff easier going back in. Take lots of breaks. Make a plan. Doesn’t work. Take another break. You got this far, don’t stress yourself out 👍
@@codyitalia8396 Yeah I’ve done a ton of Hyundai/Kia transmissions, they’re all pretty similar. Yours will have either a side pan or a bottom pan, but removal is pretty much identical do what you see here. Drain the trans/pull the pan. Remove subframe and hang the engine, pull your axles, unhook your shift linkage, unplug everything on the trans, unhook your cooler lines from the trans, pull the starter, get the 4 torque converter bolts out, then all the bellhousing bolts, separate from the engine and drop it out 👍 (in a nut shell) Book time is so high because of the subframe removal. Might not need “specialty” tools but you’ll want some good swivels. Might be some torx head bolts too, can’t say for sure on memory right now. Shouldn’t need anything to custom or fancy to get the job done though 👌
Some tips: Make sure torque converter is fully seated Put trans in neutral Make sure dowels are lined up Adjust engine height up or down to add/take away any slope you may need/not need If it’s a manual you gotta make sure the clutch disc is totally aligned using the alignment tool, you may be on the splines but not finding the very center of the thrust bearing with the input shaft on the trans
Over in the UK about to replace the subframe. So helpful thank you. Really like leaving the steering rack in .
Definitely saves at least one mess from the garage floor! Happy the video helped! Thanks for watching!
My kia rio 2006, has been giving me trans issues lately. Some u start it up and it drives normal, sometimes u start it up press accelerator, engine revs but no movement. U need to turn it off and back on before u get movement. When this happens and u shift to reverse or drive there is a huge jolt and clunk sound.
@@kaytube5645 have it scanned. I’m betting there’s some line pressure codes in there. Pump is probably going bad in the trans. Likely will need a rebuild/replacement.
@@RiggsCo yeah i got a P0745 code. Pressure control solenoid valve. It happened again today, i got on a hilly environment with speed rumps, after crossing the first speed rump and stepping on gas pedal, car revved but did not accelerate , had to shift to neutral and back to drive before i got movement.
@@kaytube5645 yeah I’d check fluid level (warm at idle in park) and condition first before condemning the transmission. But likely need a replacement.
Hey do you know where the solenoid for B is located?
Looking at the valve body, solenoid plugs up, it’s the last one on the right.
Hello
I have one question
If i don’t have the support engine
Can i use hidraulic jack botton of engine?
You could support from underneath but you’ll have to use extra caution when removing/installing the transmission as to not knock or tip it over 👍
How is the Steering Rack being supported once the Subframe is removed?
It’ll just hang from the column/tie rod ends. You could tie it up with a bungee cord or something I’d you really wanted it supported, but it’s not really necessary. It’ll just hang there.
@@RiggsCo Thanks. You're Awesome!! And thanks for the video.
Back here a week before I put a new trans in my 2013 Rio, wish me luck🙏
No luck needed! Easy peasy! Getter done! 💪
how i can know my car Kia Rio 2006 have ABS or no?
Hey Suleyman, you’ll be able to tell by looking at a couple things. Biggest one would be an ABS pump under the hood near the brake master cylinder. Can’t share any pictures here but it’ll look like a big block with brake lines going to it from the master and then out to the individual lines. It will have a big electrical connector on it. The second way to tell is to just look at the spindle, there will be a two wire ABS sensor bolted to it. Any other questions just ask! Thanks!
i have a question, why are you taking out the transmission??
It was slipping and the customer kept driving it until he lost all forward and reverse engagement. We replaced it with a low mileage used unit from a local junk yard.
@@RiggsCo awesome thanx for replaying me man, i have the 2008 model, how reliable do you think these cars are?
No problem bud! They’re not bad, this one here had 200k miles and was still ticking along just fine. Transmission was the only major repair he’s had to do since he’s owned it. I’ve seen plenty of them make it over 1/4 million miles with proper maintenance. Best thing about them is parts are cheap and they’re easy to repair. 👍
@@RiggsCo awesome thank you very much, ill keep mine till it gives in under proper maintenance, I want to see how far it can go, I also turned on the bell icon, so I don`t miss any of your new content
THANK YOU!
Hey, looking to replace the clutch, bearing, fork and slave in an 06 rio. was planning to pull the engine and leave the transmission in the car for the job. Any suggestion/warning? is this a reasonable plan?
Honestly it’s just easier to drop the subframe and pull the trans out the bottom. Had a similar discussion with another viewer on the same thing, and I do believe he ended up dropping it out the bottom. You could do your plan, and be fine, but when it comes time to get it back together you’ll find it’s a lot easier to wiggle and maneuver the transmission around than it is to do the engine on a sling, even with a leveler. It’d be a PITA to line up the splines on the input shaft and the clutch disc. Just my 2 cents!
question, what's the best way to remove the flywheel bolts? Do you remove them after you drop the subframe through the starter hole??
Hey Ramon, if you’re talking about the torque converter bolts those are accessed through the starter hole yes. You can do it before you drop the subframe or after, but you’ll have a little more room to work with if the subframe is out. Put the trans in neutral and you can turn the engine over at the crank pulley and turn until you see one through the hole, remove and repeat. Theres 4 of them and they’re 18mm if I remember correctly. 👍
I have a Kia Rondo with over 300,000 on the original trans. It has an internal "clunking" or "thumping" internally until it warms up fully. I still works well otherwise for the most part, but I know it can't last forever. So I got a low mileage trans from the wrecking yard like you did. (I guess any trans is "low mileage" compared to mine..Lol) and I'm doing the swap myself. My question is: do I have to remove the subframe to remove it, or is there another way? ( Like an Overhead hoist) I can drop the frame, but would prefer not to if possible. But, if I have to, I will.
Thanks for you Video!
You’ll have to drop the subframe unless you want to pull the motor and trans together out the top. Way easier to just drop the subframe. 👍 Thanks for watching!
whats average labor of this job in a shop?
Book time I believe is 5.3hrs or something like that. Add up to an hour and a half for parts transfer, filter, and pan gasket. About 6.8hrs book total. Most shops are $90-$100/hr labor.
I am $60/hr and charged $400 flat for this job 👍
I have a 2008 Kia Rio, and I will be replacing the clutch soon. How much does the subframe weigh?
A fair amount, it’s a two person carry.
I mean, I could carry it alone from the inside, but as for “bench pressing” it out or in, that’s a no go lol you’ll want a jack and a piece of wood 👌
@@RiggsCo Yeah I have watched a few videos on replacing the clutch. And from what I have been reading I can lower the subframe about 2 inches and that would be enough room to scoot the transmission out of the way to do the job properly. I was thinking I would replace the rear main seal while I'm in there. So I have a good floor jack and large piece of wood, but I was hoping I could lower the subframe, but not remove the bolts completely.
@@tommygomez5343 don’t be afraid of it, it’s WAY easier to just remove it. It’s not “kill ya” heavy lol just get it supported, remove the 4 bolts (be sure everything else is off of it) and lower down slowly. You’ll have to go slow anyway to work the sway bar around the steering rack. But it’s really not a big deal. You’ll want the space. Its as good as gold lol
@@RiggsCo Thank you for making this video. And thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.
Good afternoon Sir. I have a 2007 Kia RIo and the transmission oil is dirty as all hell. Do I just drain the oil from the trans oil pan plug and refill ? Does it have a trans filter that needs to be replaced? I want to see if I can do it to save money.
You can either drain and fill or drop the pan and replace the filter that’s inside. Up to you. If you’re having any shifting issues though a fluid change likely won’t help anything.
@@RiggsCo What happens is that when I press the brake and try to accelerate after , the car starts to rumble and shut off. Damn thing is driving me crazy.
@@elpadrino9056 any vacuum leaks? Is there a check engine light you can have scanned and report back with any codes? I can try to help you out 👌
@@RiggsCo Thank you Sir, It did have a code , it said that the transmission converter clutch was the issue.
@@elpadrino9056 ok if you’re getting a TCC code the trans is likely smoked. Does the fluid smell burnt?
Hey is there any transmissions from newer model dat can be swapped into a 2006 Kia rio with a 1.6
Hey Suraj, I believe all Kia Rio’s and Hyundai Accents from 2005-2011 use the same 4 speed automatic and 5 speed manual transmissions.
You're awesome, dude.
So are you! Thanks for watching!
hey man, what do I need to clear from the top of the car to take off the transmission, the throttle body and what bolts do you know?
No need to take anything off of the engine besides the air filter box and intake tube. Take the battery and battery tray out along with that intake and you’ll have plenty of room to access the upper bellhousing bolts and all the electrical plugs on top of the transmission. No need to unbolt the throttle body or anything else related to the engine. 👍
@@RiggsCo thank you very much, a pry bar and a hammer is my best bet to take off the trans axles off the transmission right?
No problem! And yup, that’ll work just be careful not to hurt the transmission case or the axle seals. I like to use two pry bars on either side of the axle stub and apply even pressure. They usually pop right out, if not rotate the axle a little and try again. 👍
@@RiggsCo Sorry to bother , I sent you a dm on Instagram because I need help, this is my first time taking down any transmission
@@michaelguapacha2533 Sorry I didn’t see that! I will accept the message and if you need any other help just let me know bud 👍
Is this process the same on a manual transmission or can it come out the top? It almost looks easier to pull the whole engine.
Yup it’s about the same only a little easier you’ll have less wiring and won’t have to worry about any torque converter bolts after you pull the starter out obviously. You can pull the engine and trans out the top if you want but if you have access to a support bar to hang the engine dropping the subframe and pulling the trans out the bottom is just as easy. 👍
@@RiggsCo would pulling the drivers side control arm give you enough room to drop the tranny enough to change the clutch? Dropping the subframe seems like a PITA.
@@misconceptions1381 doubt it the input shaft is probably 5” or so deep into the clutch/pressure plate so you’ll need to be able to go back far enough then down and you won’t have enough clearance without taking the subframe down.
Watch the video again, it’s really not hard. Unbolt all your PS cooler line hold downs if you have them, drop the ball joints on both sides, unbolt the sway bar links on both sides, you don’t have to undo the tie rods like I did since the rack stays in the car, then it’s 4 bolts holding the subframe in. Lower it down while you twist the sway bar up and around the steering rack and it’s out.
@@RiggsCo I removed the subframe. It honestly looks like it’s going to be harder putting it back together than it was to take it apart.
@@misconceptions1381 if you have the engine hanging, you can lower it down a little giving you a bit of an angle (or less of an angle depending on if you’re using a trans jack or just bench pressing the trans in and out) making getting the trans back on easier. Should slide back on no problem all you have to align is the input shaft into the clutch disc and the dowels on the bell housing. Can lube the input shaft (SLIGHTLY!) to help ease it in, also keep the trans in neutral, that’ll help. All goes back together the way you took it apart. Any hang ups you had on disassembly you can plan for and think up some ways to make stuff easier going back in. Take lots of breaks. Make a plan. Doesn’t work. Take another break.
You got this far, don’t stress yourself out 👍
What motor is this?
1.6L 4 cylinder
@@RiggsCo I got a 2.0l in a 06 spectra, bout to do the trans. Ever messed with one? Book says I'll need special tools and it takes 9 hrs.
@@codyitalia8396 Yeah I’ve done a ton of Hyundai/Kia transmissions, they’re all pretty similar. Yours will have either a side pan or a bottom pan, but removal is pretty much identical do what you see here. Drain the trans/pull the pan. Remove subframe and hang the engine, pull your axles, unhook your shift linkage, unplug everything on the trans, unhook your cooler lines from the trans, pull the starter, get the 4 torque converter bolts out, then all the bellhousing bolts, separate from the engine and drop it out 👍 (in a nut shell)
Book time is so high because of the subframe removal. Might not need “specialty” tools but you’ll want some good swivels. Might be some torx head bolts too, can’t say for sure on memory right now. Shouldn’t need anything to custom or fancy to get the job done though 👌
@@RiggsCo awesome thanks, gunna tackle it soon
@@RiggsCo I have the same Kia Rio 2008 what is the symptom of clutch replacement need ?
Hi I needed a harness for a car like this bro
You might be able to find a wiring harness at a junkyard. (If I understood your question lol)
Having trouble putting new trans in help!
Some tips:
Make sure torque converter is fully seated
Put trans in neutral
Make sure dowels are lined up
Adjust engine height up or down to add/take away any slope you may need/not need
If it’s a manual you gotta make sure the clutch disc is totally aligned using the alignment tool, you may be on the splines but not finding the very center of the thrust bearing with the input shaft on the trans