My Bosch SuperSilence stops during the washing. The display and everything goes black out. No error codes, just sudden death. Just like somebody takes the plug off from wall. After random time, normally like 2 minutes, it wakes up and continues. I changed the A01 setting to A00 so it uses cold water, and then it works normally. Could some system in the dishwasher think that the system overheats and shuts down for some kind of safety caution? I have checked different plug behind different main pfuse to be sure it's not in the wall plug problem. Also checked the doors magnet and it seems to work good (checked youtube video about the doors on/off switch). Also opened the door panel to see if the display have something clear damages, but didn't see any. Also checked the mainboard and it seems to be ok. Next step is to check this. But shouldn't this give you some error codes?
More likely a bad crimp spade terminal connection somewhere in the power wiring or a bad solder joint on the controller.. The bad connection goes open circuit when under high current. If you open the unit and trace the power wires all the way from the back to the front and look at all the connections checking that they are not discolored, melted or burned. This includes the edge connectors that plug into the controller. Then take the controller out and inspect - you will probably find a witness burn or overheating mark on the circuit board. Overheating is usually controlled by the controller. In the event that the controller freezes and demands heat when it should not, there is a separate cut out that usually just interrupts power to the heating element in an overheat situation. Good luck.
@@razenby Hey, thanks for fast answer. I also thought that it could be some bad connection just like you described, but I haven't found any overheating marks anywhere yet. I opened the front door panel and checked first the wirings and power buttons for the display panel. I even had the panel in my hands to see clearly everything. Then I tried to follow the wires to locate something odd. Everything seemed right. Then I checked the left side where is the flow sensor and it's wires and it also seems fine. Then I opened the right side panel and located the controller board. I took it out and checked it all the way. The controller board seemed perfectly fine. Nothing discolored or melted or burned. I just thought that this should be the case. I haven't checked the bottom yet, because that's the hardest place to remove things. But as I can't see anything odd yet, I think that's the next step to follow the wirings to the bottom.
I also tried to look very carefully for the bad solder joint in the panel and in the controller board, but didn't find it. But yes, I know that those bad solder joints can be very hard to locate, even though it should be there.
I have a sensor where the thermal cutout switch side has a continuous beep, but when adding boiling water to it it does not ever shut off. Would this be something that needs replacing and could cause my dishwasher to power off mid cycle and start back up later?
Sounds as though it isn't working. If the controller board processor crashes is could melt or cause a fire so yes - If you are sure that you got it up to temperature then you should replace it.
@@razenby sorry my wording was poor. Currently my dishwasher shuts off mid cycle and loses power. After 30 min or so it'll turn back on further back into its cycle. This will happen repeatedly and usually never finish until I just reset it. I've been searching for the problem and got down to this sensor issue. Would this sensor not switching off be a cause of this issue or is it likely a different problem?
@@razenby nope, power basically shuts off and it doesn't do anything. Can sometimes be turned back on by holding the power button down for 5 seconds but otherwise it is non-responsive
No the controller cant damage the thermal over temperature cut off switch. . A short to ground (supply earth) on the heating element connected to a mains supply that is not protected by an RCD trip can sometimes damage the cut off switch or the heater control relay in the controller. However the mains fuse would usually blow too.
@@razenby The unit is hardwired and has not tripped the breaker so far.(Normal 15a breaker, not gfci/afci) What is strange is after installing a new heating element and thermostat which did not solve the heating problem, now I can't get the therm to cut off when immersed in kettle hot water. It did pass that test before installation. In fact, I have 2 new thermostats(long story) that will not cut off now. I was about to order a new controller board but worry I am wasting more money. Machine runs fine except for no heat, E1 error.
@@razenby Hi - I have found your Bosch/Neff videos really helpful and informative. I have a problem with my S5443X2GB/44 Neff dishwasher where the water is not heating up. I have tested the thermistor and heating element as per your videos and they both check out fine. I have replaced all the relays on the control board and the fault remains. The washer goes through a program correctly but the water never gets heated - wondering if you have any other ideas as to what the fault might be to avoid me having to fork out for a new dishwasher right before Christmas..............
@@garynugent7912 Is the water pressure micro switch in the end of the heater working OK? It is easy to wire it temporarily in bypass and see if you get heat. Note that occasionally elements can go open circuit when they start to warm up but buzz out OK when cold. If you have ruled out all of the wiring and crimps/connectors I guess that just eaves the controller itself. The port pin from the micro just drives a transistor which in turn drives the relay. It is not that rare for a micro's port pin to fail. Are you sure that the wires are in the correct places? The plug that goes onto the thermostat sometimes gives issues too. I have been known to wire alight bulb across the heater so I can monitor what is going on. If there are other causes I am not sure what they are..
@@razenby Thanks for the quick reply. I think all the wires are in the correct place as I labelled them while taking it apart the first time. Unfortunately I'll have to dismantle the base to release the pump, heating element etc. in order to test or bypass the micro switch. Now this fault is with a replacement controller board that I got from E-Bay - my original board developed a fault of no lights coming on at all on the display although the mains switch was supplying 230V to the board and it is outputting 25V AC out on the other pin of the connector. So I actually have two problems which I think are both related to control boards as with my original board in the machine it was heating the water fine until this power problem occurred which caused me to look at getting a 2nd controller board.
@@garynugent7912 If you have no lights then change the bits in the switch mode power supply. very common fault. Send me a picture of the controller and I'll send you the components if I have them. Look out for 7 pin chip with part number staring with LNK... If it s that version t is easy to fix...
How come the resistance reduces as you warm it up? I thought resistance of metals increased as they got hotter?
True for metals. but the resistance of some metal oxides and semiconductor junctions decreases when heated.
My Bosch SuperSilence stops during the washing. The display and everything goes black out. No error codes, just sudden death. Just like somebody takes the plug off from wall. After random time, normally like 2 minutes, it wakes up and continues. I changed the A01 setting to A00 so it uses cold water, and then it works normally. Could some system in the dishwasher think that the system overheats and shuts down for some kind of safety caution? I have checked different plug behind different main pfuse to be sure it's not in the wall plug problem. Also checked the doors magnet and it seems to work good (checked youtube video about the doors on/off switch). Also opened the door panel to see if the display have something clear damages, but didn't see any. Also checked the mainboard and it seems to be ok. Next step is to check this. But shouldn't this give you some error codes?
More likely a bad crimp spade terminal connection somewhere in the power wiring or a bad solder joint on the controller.. The bad connection goes open circuit when under high current. If you open the unit and trace the power wires all the way from the back to the front and look at all the connections checking that they are not discolored, melted or burned. This includes the edge connectors that plug into the controller. Then take the controller out and inspect - you will probably find a witness burn or overheating mark on the circuit board. Overheating is usually controlled by the controller. In the event that the controller freezes and demands heat when it should not, there is a separate cut out that usually just interrupts power to the heating element in an overheat situation. Good luck.
@@razenby Hey, thanks for fast answer. I also thought that it could be some bad connection just like you described, but I haven't found any overheating marks anywhere yet. I opened the front door panel and checked first the wirings and power buttons for the display panel. I even had the panel in my hands to see clearly everything. Then I tried to follow the wires to locate something odd. Everything seemed right. Then I checked the left side where is the flow sensor and it's wires and it also seems fine. Then I opened the right side panel and located the controller board. I took it out and checked it all the way. The controller board seemed perfectly fine. Nothing discolored or melted or burned. I just thought that this should be the case. I haven't checked the bottom yet, because that's the hardest place to remove things. But as I can't see anything odd yet, I think that's the next step to follow the wirings to the bottom.
I also tried to look very carefully for the bad solder joint in the panel and in the controller board, but didn't find it. But yes, I know that those bad solder joints can be very hard to locate, even though it should be there.
Thanks for the video.I have a leak from the thermostat. What you think can't happen?
Probably something to do with the O ring/seal deformed.
Thanks for the answer .The o ring is replacement. The motor underneath return very slow.thats the way it works?
Yes it run slowly it just directs the water to the lower or upper spray arm.
I have a sensor where the thermal cutout switch side has a continuous beep, but when adding boiling water to it it does not ever shut off. Would this be something that needs replacing and could cause my dishwasher to power off mid cycle and start back up later?
Sounds as though it isn't working. If the controller board processor crashes is could melt or cause a fire so yes - If you are sure that you got it up to temperature then you should replace it.
@@razenby sorry my wording was poor. Currently my dishwasher shuts off mid cycle and loses power. After 30 min or so it'll turn back on further back into its cycle. This will happen repeatedly and usually never finish until I just reset it. I've been searching for the problem and got down to this sensor issue. Would this sensor not switching off be a cause of this issue or is it likely a different problem?
@@Scully19 Likely to be be a different problem...Does the operation of opening and closing the door allow it to carry on??
@@razenby nope, power basically shuts off and it doesn't do anything. Can sometimes be turned back on by holding the power button down for 5 seconds but otherwise it is non-responsive
Did you find out what was wrong with it in the end?
Thanks for this. Is it possible that a bad controller board can damage the thermal cut off switch? I have a SHE65P05uc/63.
No the controller cant damage the thermal over temperature cut off switch. . A short to ground (supply earth) on the heating element connected to a mains supply that is not protected by an RCD trip can sometimes damage the cut off switch or the heater control relay in the controller. However the mains fuse would usually blow too.
@@razenby The unit is hardwired and has not tripped the breaker so far.(Normal 15a breaker, not gfci/afci) What is strange is after installing a new heating element and thermostat which did not solve the heating problem, now I can't get the therm to cut off when immersed in kettle hot water. It did pass that test before installation. In fact, I have 2 new thermostats(long story) that will not cut off now. I was about to order a new controller board but worry I am wasting more money. Machine runs fine except for no heat, E1 error.
Did you check the flow switch - the Microswitch on end of heater element?
Great tips - as ever.
Glad it was helpful!
@@razenby Hi - I have found your Bosch/Neff videos really helpful and informative. I have a problem with my S5443X2GB/44 Neff dishwasher where the water is not heating up. I have tested the thermistor and heating element as per your videos and they both check out fine. I have replaced all the relays on the control board and the fault remains. The washer goes through a program correctly but the water never gets heated - wondering if you have any other ideas as to what the fault might be to avoid me having to fork out for a new dishwasher right before Christmas..............
@@garynugent7912 Is the water pressure micro switch in the end of the heater working OK? It is easy to wire it temporarily in bypass and see if you get heat. Note that occasionally elements can go open circuit when they start to warm up but buzz out OK when cold. If you have ruled out all of the wiring and crimps/connectors I guess that just eaves the controller itself. The port pin from the micro just drives a transistor which in turn drives the relay. It is not that rare for a micro's port pin to fail. Are you sure that the wires are in the correct places? The plug that goes onto the thermostat sometimes gives issues too. I have been known to wire alight bulb across the heater so I can monitor what is going on. If there are other causes I am not sure what they are..
@@razenby Thanks for the quick reply. I think all the wires are in the correct place as I labelled them while taking it apart the first time. Unfortunately I'll have to dismantle the base to release the pump, heating element etc. in order to test or bypass the micro switch. Now this fault is with a replacement controller board that I got from E-Bay - my original board developed a fault of no lights coming on at all on the display although the mains switch was supplying 230V to the board and it is outputting 25V AC out on the other pin of the connector. So I actually have two problems which I think are both related to control boards as with my original board in the machine it was heating the water fine until this power problem occurred which caused me to look at getting a 2nd controller board.
@@garynugent7912 If you have no lights then change the bits in the switch mode power supply. very common fault. Send me a picture of the controller and I'll send you the components if I have them. Look out for 7 pin chip with part number staring with LNK... If it s that version t is easy to fix...
tradusir para português
Done. Please let me me know they work.