The "exhaust vent" is a boiler blow off valve. It goes to the front of the locomotive. Back in the day, the cars were heated with excess steam from the steam engines. Being it is an electric locomotive, a kerosene boiler was used to make the steam.
As l model a prosperous PENN CENTRALl have several Williams GG-1 lwish they had diecast shell for traction effort. Love my Bicentennial GG-1's .l paint out the CR.l can run NYC and PRR and NH electric locos and passenger cars. I have a stream lined K-4 for fan trips.
Very nice diagnostic work, Dave. The Williams GG1 is acting now as it's supposed to, smooth and powerful. There may be a need for more improvements, but things are looking good as is.
Definitely made a heck of a difference with its performance! Glad you figured that out! I was kind of scratching my head in the last video because I knew it really should have done better, now it’s doing what one would expect.
Good job finding that one. I’ve had a few Williams pieces over the years with various issues. Fortunately they are simple machines, and adhere to a pretty good set of expectations. That GG1 now pulls like her prototype.
I used to not understand the GG-1 craze until i got a scale MTH QS1, the scale one looks so much better, i have a red one, but the Brunswick green looks even better
Beautiful GG1! My 036, 031 and 027 curves would not like a scale GG1 so I'm sticking with my semi-scale versions (1947 2332 and my Railking MTH 4916). Great detective work on diagnosing that pull/drag issue. I've got a K-Line NYC 2114 Alco that's not pulling as well as it should (even with 2 motors and traction tires) so that's on my list to investigate. I learn new things from you with every video. Thanks
Great find, Dave. That's a very unlikely problem to find. I have never seen that particular issue with metal geared locomotives before, very unusual. I have had some with seized motors, but it's usually from dried grease. I can't imagine that the motors have enough torque to shear the metal gear loose from the wheel like that unless it was a defect. One of the things I've noticed on the Williams models is they have had problems with Zinc pest on the truck side frames. Nevertheless, it is a great find and solution for repair. I use the same method using WD-40 and contact cleaner on really dirty and corroded motors and E- units with the WD-40. I douse them with WD-40 and let them set overnight and drench them with contact cleaner the next day to remove everything. I only use the WD-40 as a cleaner-degreaser to free up stuck together parts, not as a lubricant. The WD-40 is great for freeing up stubborn rusted and corroded parts that are stuck together, but I wouldn't recommend using it to lubricate as it will eventually turn into sticky black gunk and can ruin motors if it migrates into the windings and brushes and builds up. I've seen some Marx engines I've bought that I suspect were doused in WD-40 and ran until they're fouled and struggled to run. The brushes are porus enough to absorb the WD-40, rendering them ineffective or useless fouling the comutators. So far, it appears that the contact cleaner is effective at removing all traces of the WD-40. If I use WD-40 on sticky E-units, it's only after the contact cleaner has been used, and it still sticks. I will run the engine for a while cycling it until it runs and cycles smoothly without fail, and then I drench it with contact cleaner to clean and remove everything. I have, on occasion, used CRC 2-26 lubricant on some more stubborn mechanical E-units that continue to stick.
Yo Dave, if it matters, the steam exhaust port stack goes towards the front. I've bought several williams gg1s new and they all came that way. Check the vision line gg1 as well. It's the same way
Great video ( As usual ) Those Williams are tough, kind of the "sleepers" of the budget model railroad world. Wonder why Bachmann/Williams struggles with this product line :( 18 cars! That's pretty cools as well :)
Your kidding gluing the gear to the wheel. Drill and pin w/Loctite would be a more permanent repair. I almost didn’t believe I was watching that.😊😊 The Santa Fe shouldn’t have any problem pulling those passenger cars, is it beat up?
Very Nice Troubleshooting work on that williams gg1! Seems like that menards santa fe f unit is silent. Did you do some work on that one or was there an on and off switch where you could just turn the sounds off? Just curious on that!
I think the scale model with can motors is sharp but it can’t pull as easily as the ole Pull-Mor repos especially with magni traction originals can. Just with the old school growl . Two different worlds.
did you try the horn? mine was so sick that i sent the thing right back. then they sent it back to me, stating that it was normal. kinda like "they all do that".
Hey, if you don't need the latest and greatest in O Gauge there's a lot of good deals out there now on Lionel Post-Wars, MPC and LTI Era Lionels, and early production MTH trains. Hit the train shows and shops in your area if they carry used and also on-line sellers like Trainz. Don't let the sky-high prices of current production scale-sized "computer on wheels" O Gauge engines scare you, you don't have to go that way.
That's some great diagnostic and repair work Dave! I'm sure we all learned something today!
There is room on the layout for both sized GG1s, the scale one just looks so very good
Nice addition and temporary fix.
The "exhaust vent" is a boiler blow off valve. It goes to the front of the locomotive.
Back in the day, the cars were heated with excess steam from the steam engines. Being it is an electric locomotive, a kerosene boiler was used to make the steam.
Nice detective work, Dave.
The ERR sound boards are fantastic. I have several. A GG1 with correct sound is really something.😊
As l model a prosperous PENN CENTRALl have several Williams GG-1 lwish they had diecast shell for traction effort. Love my Bicentennial GG-1's .l paint out the CR.l can run NYC and PRR and NH electric locos and passenger cars. I have a stream lined K-4 for fan trips.
Yousonofagun. You did it again. Love when you do that work 😊
Kroil is the best for freeing up metal parts. 😉 Thanks for including your Tuscan GG-1 for size comparison. 😎👍
Very nice diagnostic work, Dave. The Williams GG1 is acting now as it's supposed to, smooth and powerful. There may be a need for more improvements, but things are looking good as is.
Definitely made a heck of a difference with its performance! Glad you figured that out! I was kind of scratching my head in the last video because I knew it really should have done better, now it’s doing what one would expect.
Good job finding that one. I’ve had a few Williams pieces over the years with various issues. Fortunately they are simple machines, and adhere to a pretty good set of expectations. That GG1 now pulls like her prototype.
You do top notch work. Most enjoyable. Guess I’ll go run trains now!
The hobby shop next to the Choo Barn sell led bulbs 18 volts both bayonet and screw in .
I used to not understand the GG-1 craze until i got a scale MTH QS1, the scale one looks so much better, i have a red one, but the Brunswick green looks even better
Sweet! Well, as a typical passenger train on our layout’s is about 8-10 cars long the GG1 is more than adequate for the job.
Guess it was a good buy after all. Stronger Harder Faster.
Beautiful GG1! My 036, 031 and 027 curves would not like a scale GG1 so I'm sticking with my semi-scale versions (1947 2332 and my Railking MTH 4916). Great detective work on diagnosing that pull/drag issue. I've got a K-Line NYC 2114 Alco that's not pulling as well as it should (even with 2 motors and traction tires) so that's on my list to investigate. I learn new things from you with every video. Thanks
Great find, Dave. That's a very unlikely problem to find. I have never seen that particular issue with metal geared locomotives before, very unusual. I have had some with seized motors, but it's usually from dried grease. I can't imagine that the motors have enough torque to shear the metal gear loose from the wheel like that unless it was a defect. One of the things I've noticed on the Williams models is they have had problems with Zinc pest on the truck side frames. Nevertheless, it is a great find and solution for repair.
I use the same method using WD-40 and contact cleaner on really dirty and corroded motors and E- units with the WD-40. I douse them with WD-40 and let them set overnight and drench them with contact cleaner the next day to remove everything. I only use the WD-40 as a cleaner-degreaser to free up stuck together parts, not as a lubricant. The WD-40 is great for freeing up stubborn rusted and corroded parts that are stuck together, but I wouldn't recommend using it to lubricate as it will eventually turn into sticky black gunk and can ruin motors if it migrates into the windings and brushes and builds up. I've seen some Marx engines I've bought that I suspect were doused in WD-40 and ran until they're fouled and struggled to run. The brushes are porus enough to absorb the WD-40, rendering them ineffective or useless fouling the comutators. So far, it appears that the contact cleaner is effective at removing all traces of the WD-40. If I use WD-40 on sticky E-units, it's only after the contact cleaner has been used, and it still sticks. I will run the engine for a while cycling it until it runs and cycles smoothly without fail, and then I drench it with contact cleaner to clean and remove everything. I have, on occasion, used CRC 2-26 lubricant on some more stubborn mechanical E-units that continue to stick.
Yo Dave, if it matters, the steam exhaust port stack goes towards the front. I've bought several williams gg1s new and they all came that way. Check the vision line gg1 as well. It's the same way
Nice GG-1.
Great video ( As usual ) Those Williams are tough, kind of the "sleepers" of the budget model railroad world. Wonder why Bachmann/Williams struggles with this product line :( 18 cars! That's pretty cools as well :)
Very Nice!
Your kidding gluing the gear to the wheel. Drill and pin w/Loctite would be a more permanent repair. I almost didn’t believe I was watching that.😊😊 The Santa Fe shouldn’t have any problem pulling those passenger cars, is it beat up?
Very Nice Troubleshooting work on that williams gg1! Seems like that menards santa fe f unit is silent. Did you do some work on that one or was there an on and off switch where you could just turn the sounds off? Just curious on that!
I think the scale model with can motors is sharp but it can’t pull as easily as the ole Pull-Mor repos especially with magni traction originals can. Just with the old school growl . Two different worlds.
Your passenger cars need diaphragms between the cars. Looks much better,same thing for carbody diesels.
did you try the horn? mine was so sick that i sent the thing right back. then they sent it back to me, stating that it was normal. kinda like "they all do that".
What's the minimum curve for the scale Williams GG1s?
O-42 but looks best with at O-72 or bigger.
Stop making me want to get into true O scale stuff my wallet can't handle it PUH-LEASE
Hey, if you don't need the latest and greatest in O Gauge there's a lot of good deals out there now on Lionel Post-Wars, MPC and LTI Era Lionels, and early production MTH trains. Hit the train shows and shops in your area if they carry used and also on-line sellers like Trainz. Don't let the sky-high prices of current production scale-sized "computer on wheels" O Gauge engines scare you, you don't have to go that way.