Ohhh! Thanks for that from the land of 120vac (equiv to 240 just different). It sounds like leveling forward to rear vice versa is more important than the side to side angle because of the way the coils run back down draining the ammonia back into the condensor.
I have an old absorption fridges, And I have done the same as in the video... But i have also made up a container at the bottom of the fridge that slides out if need be, but it main job is to stop the cold air from pouring out when the door is opened. That alone is 75% of the increase in performance in my fridge, Another 10% is from sticking insulation under the freezer compartment and on the back wall near the burner is inside, The remainder is from having the seal around the door 100% sealed off and very much so at the bottom edge.. I have put a seal around the freezer door as well .The fridge works that well now that i cant get food out of the freezer. Then fridge section freezes water bottles and has ice over the element...The temp will goes as high as -18c at the freezer and the van temp inside 33c with the sun on the fridge side of the van,, I get a full 3 weeks out of a 9kg bottle.. All this on number 1 setting. I have turned it to max. but only had a very small drop in temp. I run it at number 1 now all the time. only thinking it may save gas.. I have a 12 volt solar fridge that's ok if the sun is out.. but 3 days of rain, its all over red rover and the gas marches on
i have a question. You said its better to run it on 220v than the 12v, because it draws a lot of power. i'm on my solar grid and currently using my fridge in 12v mode non stop. If i use the 220v from an inverter i suspect it will draw almost the same ammount of power, but will the heater work better? another problem i'm having is that in 12v mode cables are getting warm. i've changed the supply cable and now i can feel some heat building up to the ressistor cables, that i can't change. thanks in advance.
Thank you for that. Recently ,with the fridge not in use, the ambient dropped below freezing.Now the fridge is hardly working, is there a fix do you know. Cheers Tim.
What is the physical difference between a 'T' and 'ST' models? We experienced our fridge struggling cool right down over christmas, it was quite humid here in WA.
The difference is the temp the fridge will operate below ambient. A T rated fridge will cool a higher outside temp (but will use more power to do so. So the colder the climate the lower the rating.
Thanks for that. From what I hear, if the wiring for the 12v from the car to the fridge is big enough then it is possible to even have these things freeze up on 12v. But the wiring needs to be thick enough to handle 15+ amps. So that means the wiring needs to run independently via an Anderson plug to the car, not through the 12v power wire in the plug used for lights and indicators. The connector in the plug is not big enough to take the right sized cable. I've seen people put a thermostat on these fridges on the 12v side to ensure they don't freeze over after the wiring has been upgraded to suit. So with a thermostat installed that will cycle as the fridge needs to, to keep to temp, it is feasible to run these on 12v in an off grid-free camping situation if you had enough solar and if not, then just flick it over to gas.
I have a 1976 dometic rm66E model RV refrigerator that I want to run off of my RV 12volt house battery. Do you know what power consumption this model uses? Amp hours? How can I figure this out?
No I don't. But it very safe to say you will kill your house battery very fast. The 12 volt side of these fridge is designed to operate off the tow vehicles or motorhome vehicles alternator. A battery alone will not have the power.
Hi, loved your video thanks for posting it. I’ve got a Dometic and the 12v isn’t working, gas and 240v are all good. I’ve tried to access the rear but Jayco have cunningly only installed a tiny access hatch and this makes it impossible to carry out any diagnostic tests and or maintenance. I suspect the 12v element needs replacing so I guess my options are to remove the fridge or cut a bigger access panel hole. The van is a 2011 model and your comment re. later models using bigger hatches for the venturi effect seems to suggest I should just do go for a bigger panel. 2 questions, do you sell retrofit access panels and is it possible to make the necessary cuts with the fridge insitu without causing damage? Watching your video has allowed me to see what is hidden, perhaps you could say what model your fridge is so I can get a clearer idea of how to go about it. Cheers, Nick from Tasmania
Yes, sometimes they can be tricky to get to. If you are good at feeling your way then 1/ disconnect 240 volt 2/ find the 12 volt element and remove the wires 3/ follow the wires up. they will go in behind a tin cover which you can remove. The 12 volt element can be lifted up by wriggling it. then slot the new one in. It is not as easy as it sounds but can be done if you can work without by touch. Or cut a bigger access hatch. Best of luck. Ben
@@searlesrvcentre Thanks for replying Ben. I found another vid on UA-cam which shows how to fit a bigger access panel. Have bought one and will have a crack at it. Cheers Nick
Hi.. thaks for video. İ have old model of frige,my problem is my fridge when i use it with electric or gas ,freezer is working well and keepeng food froozen but the fridge part isnot cooling enough, its 12-14c.i watched many videos and tried many things but couldnt solve the problem, if you can suggets me what to do i ll be happy. thanks
I haven’t tried this yet but read it on another post recently when others had similar issues. One dude put a 12v desktop fan inside his fridge with the lead going out through the seals. It was aimed at the cooling fins to help circulate, he said it dropped temperatures dramatically. Another dude drilled some holes between fridge and freezer following theory that cold air drops, he said it did the job for him. Just some further suggestions to consider.
A lot of people add a small fan to assist in cooling. Does this make the fridge more efficient or not very beneficial? I have an ST fridge planning to travel NW WA.
@@Bundyrvs Ohhhh K. Can u help me out ?? I have this system and I am working on it with R134a-DMF refrigerant absorbent Pair. As I need design of system so that I can analyze it by different pairs and complete y research work. Thanks
I thought you should never motor down the road with your fridge running? Because the fridge must be level most critically side to side of fridge not vehical.
These refrigerators are absolute garbage The only way this is worth it is if you are camping or live off the grid otherwise it is just a terrible refrigerator it takes forever to get cold has a hard time keeping it cold and in my opinion is much more dangerous than a 12-volt or residential refrigerator if you are utilizing the LP mode
Hi Thomas, If they are not installed correctly then yes they just won't work as they are designed. If they are installed correctly then they are a fantastic fridge. If you still have one before giving up on it make sure it is not an installation issue. Cheers Ben
@@dalehodge5629 yeah it just was garbage in my opinion I put a residential unit in and it was an absolute glacier in about 4 hours I have no regrets. now I can understand why someone might need a propane refrigerator not completely useless but in my case since I live in my camper year-round it is not practical for me
I love my Dometic gas fridge in my off-grid open palapa jungle house in Yelapa, Mexico. It is very old and hasn't been working too well lately but now by watching Ben's great video I know why. I'll be back in December again and will fix it.
Great video!
Excellent video, very well explained and helped out a lot, thanks mate
Excellent and informative. Love your work.
Thanks for the very informative video
Great explanation👍🏻🇸🇪
Ohhh! Thanks for that from the land of 120vac (equiv to 240 just different). It sounds like leveling forward to rear vice versa is more important than the side to side angle because of the way the coils run back down draining the ammonia back into the condensor.
Thanks for that, nice video 😎
5C in 43C, we can only dream. ;) 250L domestic inverter fridge running off a 350w inverter is the only way to go. 3yrs of bliss so far.
I have an old absorption fridges, And I have done the same as in the video... But i have also made up a container at the bottom of the fridge that slides out if need be, but it main job is to stop the cold air from pouring out when the door is opened. That alone is 75% of the increase in performance in my fridge, Another 10% is from sticking insulation under the freezer compartment and on the back wall near the burner is inside, The remainder is from having the seal around the door 100% sealed off and very much so at the bottom edge.. I have put a seal around the freezer door as well .The fridge works that well now that i cant get food out of the freezer. Then fridge section freezes water bottles and has ice over the element...The temp will goes as high as -18c at the freezer and the van temp inside 33c with the sun on the fridge side of the van,, I get a full 3 weeks out of a 9kg bottle.. All this on number 1 setting. I have turned it to max. but only had a very small drop in temp. I run it at number 1 now all the time. only thinking it may save gas.. I have a 12 volt solar fridge that's ok if the sun is out.. but 3 days of rain, its all over red rover and the gas marches on
i have a question. You said its better to run it on 220v than the 12v, because it draws a lot of power. i'm on my solar grid and currently using my fridge in 12v mode non stop. If i use the 220v from an inverter i suspect it will draw almost the same ammount of power, but will the heater work better?
another problem i'm having is that in 12v mode cables are getting warm. i've changed the supply cable and now i can feel some heat building up to the ressistor cables, that i can't change.
thanks in advance.
Thank you for that. Recently ,with the fridge not in use, the ambient dropped below freezing.Now the fridge is hardly working, is there a fix do you know. Cheers Tim.
Hi question Is there an air conditioner working with ammonia and why this fridge is extinct
Here can you upload a video of how you charge an ammonia fridge
What is the physical difference between a 'T' and 'ST' models? We experienced our fridge struggling cool right down over christmas, it was quite humid here in WA.
The difference is the temp the fridge will operate below ambient. A T rated fridge will cool a higher outside temp (but will use more power to do so. So the colder the climate the lower the rating.
I have one but it is not working because of the strong electricity which break down how to repair
Thanks for that. From what I hear, if the wiring for the 12v from the car to the fridge is big enough then it is possible to even have these things freeze up on 12v. But the wiring needs to be thick enough to handle 15+ amps. So that means the wiring needs to run independently via an Anderson plug to the car, not through the 12v power wire in the plug used for lights and indicators. The connector in the plug is not big enough to take the right sized cable.
I've seen people put a thermostat on these fridges on the 12v side to ensure they don't freeze over after the wiring has been upgraded to suit.
So with a thermostat installed that will cycle as the fridge needs to, to keep to temp, it is feasible to run these on 12v in an off grid-free camping situation if you had enough solar and if not, then just flick it over to gas.
I have a 1976 dometic rm66E model RV refrigerator that I want to run off of my RV 12volt house battery. Do you know what power consumption this model uses? Amp hours? How can I figure this out?
No I don't. But it very safe to say you will kill your house battery very fast. The 12 volt side of these fridge is designed to operate off the tow vehicles or motorhome vehicles alternator. A battery alone will not have the power.
Hi, loved your video thanks for posting it. I’ve got a Dometic and the 12v isn’t working, gas and 240v are all good. I’ve tried to access the rear but Jayco have cunningly only installed a tiny access hatch and this makes it impossible to carry out any diagnostic tests and or maintenance. I suspect the 12v element needs replacing so I guess my options are to remove the fridge or cut a bigger access panel hole. The van is a 2011 model and your comment re. later models using bigger hatches for the venturi effect seems to suggest I should just do go for a bigger panel.
2 questions, do you sell retrofit access panels and is it possible to make the necessary cuts with the fridge insitu without causing damage? Watching your video has allowed me to see what is hidden, perhaps you could say what model your fridge is so I can get a clearer idea of how to go about it.
Cheers, Nick from Tasmania
Yes, sometimes they can be tricky to get to. If you are good at feeling your way then 1/ disconnect 240 volt 2/ find the 12 volt element and remove the wires 3/ follow the wires up. they will go in behind a tin cover which you can remove. The 12 volt element can be lifted up by wriggling it. then slot the new one in. It is not as easy as it sounds but can be done if you can work without by touch. Or cut a bigger access hatch. Best of luck. Ben
@@searlesrvcentre Thanks for replying Ben. I found another vid on UA-cam which shows how to fit a bigger access panel. Have bought one and will have a crack at it. Cheers Nick
Hi.. thaks for video. İ have old model of frige,my problem is my fridge when i use it with electric or gas ,freezer is working well and keepeng food froozen but the fridge part isnot cooling enough, its 12-14c.i watched many videos and tried many things but couldnt solve the problem, if you can suggets me what to do i ll be happy. thanks
I haven’t tried this yet but read it on another post recently when others had similar issues. One dude put a 12v desktop fan inside his fridge with the lead going out through the seals. It was aimed at the cooling fins to help circulate, he said it dropped temperatures dramatically. Another dude drilled some holes between fridge and freezer following theory that cold air drops, he said it did the job for him. Just some further suggestions to consider.
A lot of people add a small fan to assist in cooling. Does this make the fridge more efficient or not very beneficial? I have an ST fridge planning to travel NW WA.
Adding fans simply helps in circulating the air flow over the upper cool fins. This will definitely help in the cooling of the fridge.
Fans will help the air circulate through the cooling fins. Yes great idea in hot climates
My company just cut the amonia pipe into water.. is that even safe
What is the price of this kind of fridge?
Hi Ramtenki, The fridge in the video is a Dometic RM2553 3 way RR $2,289
Hello Sir, Can you send me the design procedure of this system????
I need it for my research work.
Hi Sagar. I do not design or manufacture this fridge. you would need to contact dometic for that information.
@@Bundyrvs Ohhhh K. Can u help me out ?? I have this system and I am working on it with R134a-DMF refrigerant absorbent Pair. As I need design of system so that I can analyze it by different pairs and complete y research work. Thanks
I thought you should never motor down the road with your fridge running?
Because the fridge must be level most critically side to side of fridge not vehical.
bom video
Celsius! Bye
Usless in the outback ..
Brilliant in the outback. You just need better air circulation and smaller distance between top wall and cooler fins. Give it a go.
These refrigerators are absolute garbage The only way this is worth it is if you are camping or live off the grid otherwise it is just a terrible refrigerator it takes forever to get cold has a hard time keeping it cold and in my opinion is much more dangerous than a 12-volt or residential refrigerator if you are utilizing the LP mode
Hi Thomas, If they are not installed correctly then yes they just won't work as they are designed. If they are installed correctly then they are a fantastic fridge. If you still have one before giving up on it make sure it is not an installation issue. Cheers Ben
@@dalehodge5629 yeah it just was garbage in my opinion I put a residential unit in and it was an absolute glacier in about 4 hours I have no regrets. now I can understand why someone might need a propane refrigerator not completely useless but in my case since I live in my camper year-round it is not practical for me
I love my Dometic gas fridge in my off-grid open palapa jungle house in Yelapa, Mexico. It is very old and hasn't been working too well lately but now by watching Ben's great video I know why. I'll be back in December again and will fix it.
@@yelapaangel 🤷🤷