The brake lever tab that activates the brake switch can be shaved down a fair amount, giving you enough clearance to rotate brake banjo clockwise to clear the fork then allowing further downward adjustment to brake lever.
Just FYI, the ABS on track can be a bit aggressive. The good thing is that since the bike brakes great, there isn't much ABS'ing needed at least all the way up to the intermediate group. So this is a great reference for when I decide to buy the ABS-delete emulator. So far I am going to default to pulling the fuse when going on track and putting it back on for the road for insurance purposes. Running with a faulty ABS is an immediate window for insurance to not pay-out in here PS; did you need any shims for the front brake callipers when you took off the brackets from the reflectors?
Good to know about the abs on track, I did not need any shims after removing the brackets, I guess there is sufficient threads in the caliper to take the bolts all the way, and that makes sense as the brackets are only held in by the top bolt, and it would be strange to machine the calipers different in one hole versus the other.
@@NinjaKoalaAUTW well the front "lines" are made up of a single banjo bolt at the top, which then feeds a splitter "T" joint, which feeds both calipers. Then a simple one line for the rear yes.
@NinjaKoalaAUTW yes some will do 3 lines separate that require a longer banjo bolt at the master cylinder. I think on the stock clip on the longer bolt would restrict the angle position you can get to, maybe why they used this version
The brake lever tab that activates the brake switch can be shaved down a fair amount, giving you enough clearance to rotate brake banjo clockwise to clear the fork then allowing further downward adjustment to brake lever.
Yes I now have that in mind too 😊 just need that little extra
Just FYI, the ABS on track can be a bit aggressive. The good thing is that since the bike brakes great, there isn't much ABS'ing needed at least all the way up to the intermediate group. So this is a great reference for when I decide to buy the ABS-delete emulator. So far I am going to default to pulling the fuse when going on track and putting it back on for the road for insurance purposes. Running with a faulty ABS is an immediate window for insurance to not pay-out in here
PS; did you need any shims for the front brake callipers when you took off the brackets from the reflectors?
Good to know about the abs on track, I did not need any shims after removing the brackets, I guess there is sufficient threads in the caliper to take the bolts all the way, and that makes sense as the brackets are only held in by the top bolt, and it would be strange to machine the calipers different in one hole versus the other.
you plan on removing the ABS module itself? and when you remove it do you need to install an abs removal kit for the speedo to work?
I would love to remove it yes, but for the speedo to work, yes there are the small plug in modules available, but they are expensive!
so you need three lines front and one rear for non abs correct?
@@NinjaKoalaAUTW well the front "lines" are made up of a single banjo bolt at the top, which then feeds a splitter "T" joint, which feeds both calipers. Then a simple one line for the rear yes.
@@mikeyjaxxx ok to my knowledge, some brands will just two lines, like a "h"
@@mikeyjaxxx and thank you for your detailed vid greatly appreciated
@NinjaKoalaAUTW yes some will do 3 lines separate that require a longer banjo bolt at the master cylinder. I think on the stock clip on the longer bolt would restrict the angle position you can get to, maybe why they used this version
Wish had all that abs crap off my bike 😡
Yeah I wanted to get a bike without it but not available in the USA. Glad it’s off now, or nearly all off. 👍