First I've seen of this knot. Just tied one to imprint it on the grey matter. Maybe not the quickest knot but, actually very simple to do. Thank you for sharing. You should warn your viewers about how extremely addictive true Slow-Pitch fishing is!!!
Apart formo the finish (similar to rizzuto) i knew the rest of the knot as the chain knot. Am I wrong? I know also another version of the chain knot in which you don’t tie it first around the ring, but just loop it inside the ring and over itself, and then proceed with the half hitches. Never properly tested any of the two on a machine, but I think that theoretically the second version I described should be a 100% knot if it doesn’t come undone a there are practically no knots on the line
You are correct. As stated in the video, this is simply an AG Chain knot that goes through the eye of the hook/swivel three times before completing standing half hitches and ending in a Rizzuto finish. And the Rizzuto finish does not make the knot stronger - it just makes it more fishable by keeping it from coming unwound. The second knot you mention - where you make a single Cat's Paw splice through the eye (make a loop and go through the ring) is in fact stronger than the regular AG chain knot but NOT as strong as this TN knot. The reason why: if you imagine the knot compressing and elongating under pressure, rather than constricting the three wraps around the ring of the swivel and allowing the line to stretch before breaking (as in the TN knot) your Version 2 knot applies all pressure from one loop to another loop at 90 degrees due to the Cat's Paw. Kind of hard to visualize but rather than allowing the leader to stretch and elongate without breaking, that version creates a 90 degree shear point and that is where the knot fails. In my experience it will always fail on the side of the Cat's Paw closest to the standing leader line (as opposed to the other side which forms the tag end). Make sense? I'm hoping to borrow some knot breaking equipment again soon and will add this to the list of demos to record. Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding oh that's super interesting. Your explanation makes sense indeed. It'd be great to see some tests done on the various versions as well! Thanks for answering my comment!
Absolutely! You could argue it is even more beneficial the lighter you go in leader size. It affords you some bite protection and shock resistance. Give it a try!
I know this is totally off topic but I would like to hear your thoughts on choosing a rod blank. As someone new to Rod building the choices are infinite. Even if you narrow it down to my specific fishing which is inshore and offshore saltwater, it only narrows it down to a hundred thousand choices. I can break it down even smaller but that still does not help me. As a professional furniture builder I have learned to appreciate craftsmanship. I can see by watching most of your videos that you are a true Craftsman. The difference between my before rod and my after watching your videos rod is stunning. You have made me a much better Craftsman. I feel that your advice would be very helpful.
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe. That is off topic but there is a wealth of information - including specific blank recommendations - at www.rodbuilding.org Just search your topic and you'll find a TON of info.
I like it. Agreed regarding Japanese Anglers secrets - Totos walked me through EVERYTHING!in 1 on 1 text msgs - I tie all my own assists now whether spliced or bobbin tied. I actually came up with a method I recommend when you want a really cleanly tied single assist hook that is as short as possible for those little 40-90 gram jigs. Splice a loop in hollow core YGK or similar brand of 220 - 280 lb test (I use A.S.S. 280 blue) & rather than hitching the loop through & around your solid ring, slip the tag end of your hollow core through your ring AS YOU SPLICE the loop. Follow with a dot of glue at the end of the doubled hollow core - just a dot. Give yourself 1-1 1/2 " of doubled hollow core for strength. In this way you dont need a big loop to work through & around a solid ring in fact you can pull it to ALMOST tight around the side of the ring. Next just bobbin tie a spade hook or blind hook as shown on the above mentioned site at other end of your single assist hk & also glue your thread sparingly. The Cultiva hooks are too light for a single hook assist. I like the pike 4/0 as they are beefy enough for rock cod & ling cod here in N Cal. I like this knot of yours. It brings to mind the plaited knot for big gamefish - 1 of my favorite (also a shock absorber knot) great for swivel connection with a catspaw in the loop. Jansek special is my go to if you know it. Similar to this knot but w/o the 1/2 hitches. Tag through the eye or ring twice forming 2 sm loops then tag through those 3 times & draw tight. Simple. Hasnt failed me yet. Youve tied it right when your tag end sticks out at a 90 degree angle & the knot looks like a little fist. Wet b4 drawing tight. Thx 4 sharing. Love this stuff....
Hey mate! Can you make a video about your discovery's about the best knots for mono to flouro connections? Or even let us know about your discovery's. Recently I've just been using a double uni or double blood!
Hello E Sandig - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe! Happy to try to help - are you looking for mono/fluoro to braid knots? Or are you looking for mono to fluoro? Just want to make sure I'm clear what you are after. Cheers!
@@masteringrodbuilding Hi Bill thanks for replying mate! Yep mono to mono/flouro connections. Also I was planning on sending you an IM, I have just gotten into rod building. Your videos have been invaluable, your a great educator and the extra back stories and history really add an extra layer! The videos have seriously helped me get at least on the surface a much much better finish than I probably deserve for time Ive spent on this hobbie so thank you!!
Can I use this with knot braid to swivel or is the AG chain knot better for braid? I mainly have braid on my talica 20 , I would be using this for jig fishing for 100-200lb BFT
Neither the AG Chain Knot nor the TN Knot is intended for use with braid - only mono and (ideally) fluorocarbon. And both knots tend to unravel in braid (in addition to being weak.) There are much stronger knots for braid to swivel in my experience. I'd recommend the improved Uni Knot for this application personally. Second place would be a San Diego Jam Knot. I hope this helps!
Oh man!!!!!! I’m about to practice practice practice. I’m trying to present my jigs as clean as possible. And this will definitely help w that. I’m concerned with friction on the mono i notice that nobody talks about that. That’s not a concern ?
It really doesn't take long once you learn it. I can crank one out in under a minute on a rocking boat at night. As far as friction, this knot routinely outperforms all others in tests. So is there some friction? I guess so...but it does NOT impact breaking strength. Hope this helps!
@falconercustomrods I thought may be quite good for braid as it creates a littlebot of 'give' . I will give it a try. Bit I don't really have an accurate way to test will be a bit un scientific :)
@falconercustomrods chap who tests knots on stripersonline forum tested TN Chain with braid.. is a no go..down to 50%..he said is because in mono the line doesn't actually get to cinch down on itself tightly because it stretches whereas the braid ,not stretching, cinches down tightly on the standing line and cuts it...
Half hitches are used for LOTS of things. When you test these knots to failure, they always fail either due to the ring of thw swivel cutting through the line or more often the line cutting itstelf where it crosses itself in a tight turn. This is regardless of knot and regardless of how strong they load prior to failure. It's just mechanically how they fail. In this case, the half hitches allow the knot to move and stretch. The three times through the ring - coupled with a ring that is at least half the diameter of the fluoro - allow stretch and movement and distribute the load across a much longer section of leader rather than a single point. It is precisely because neither the half hitches nor the manner of the line going through the eye force the load into a single point that the knot is so strong and has so much 'stretch'. Whether you understand it or not, this knot is likely much stronger than what you are using. Don't believe me? Cut an 8 foot length of leader material. (You might want to use 20# or 30# for this test.) Tie your typical knot (whatever you use today) to a swivel on one end and then tie this knot to a swivel on the other end. Attached a jig with no hooks to each end with heavy duty split rings. Now pull it until one of the knots break. Enough said.
@masteringrodbuilding Allowing the fluoro to distribute the load across a longer section of leader rather than a single point makes sense. I would be using braid main line to a swivel though. I use either a palomar, improved trilene or an improved trilene with doubled line with a palomar finish around the swivel. But pulling on them myself would be unscientific. I'd like to see all the knots along with the TN on a digital pull system like knot wars use to do. Maybe you could do a video on knots vs the TN like that. Thanks for the video though. I'll try and find a break test.
@@birdbig1 we are on the same page. The problem is the equipment...roughly $10K to get started with decent equipment you can trust that doesn't wear out. Wore out my first two homebrew sets already. You are exactly right...the test is unscientific. But this knot will win every single time and that still tells you something practical. ONE IMPORTANT NOTE: This knot is specifically intended for monofilament and fluorocarbon lines and leaders. It is NOT a strong knot for braid. Just FYI.
Interesting! Way more complicated than my palomar knots! Do you have a favorite braid to fluro or mono knot? I have been using the fg never tried the pr bobbin knot
Thanks for watching! The Palomar is a very good knot. That is what I was using for my terminal connection prior to learning this knot...and it works. I still use it a lot for other applications besides SPJ. For me the TN was measurably stronger - test yours and see what you think. I do know some very good SPJ anglers who use the Palomar for their terminal connection. So...for slow pitch jigging and pure all around strength the PR Knot (sometimes also called the Bobbin Knot or PR Bobbin Knot) is the very best braid to fluorocarbon join I have found. I learned a slightly different (and simpler) way to tie it by watching Bryan Dietz's videos and that's all I use now. Bryan is a very experienced angler and one of the guys behind NLO Jigskinz and the excellent NLO Slow Pitch Jigs (www.nlofishing.com). Bryan also won a big Florida Sportsman Knot Contest with his version of the PR Knot which tested 100%. Here's a link to how he ties it: www.sportfishingmag.com/100-percent-pr-bobbin-knot-video/ My PR knots test stronger than my FG knots so that is all I use for SPJ specifically. That said, there are a few down sides to the PR knot: you need a bobbin, when tied properly it's a fairly long and stiff, and I personally have trouble joining leader under 20# to braid using that knot. So I still use the FG knot either when I don't have a bobbin or I have to tie it fast...very strong join that casts well. And for lighter lines or when I need a more compact knot (like to pass through a bait casting level wind when casting a long leader), both the FG and PR are a bit too long so I'll use a Red Philips knot or a GT knot for that. I also use the Red Philips and the GT for lines under 20#. Again, all about finding the right knot for the given application and it may not be the same knot everywhere and all the time. Hope this helps!
@@masteringrodbuilding As always I appreciate the reply. I am 100% sure your TN knot is stronger than the palomar. I find it really fascinating seeing how these knots are tied. Watched the PR bobbin knot you linked that's a neat one. You said something that I have found really important and honestly struggled with.... the right knot for the application! I wish there was one fluro to braid knot that was easy and works for everything. I seems to always be using different weights of both leader and braid. Some just don't mix well without the right knot. I tried that GT knot a couple times and it came apart. I can tie an FG just wanted something easier. I have a couple rods I built with the little Fuji guides that are a pain to get any knot through. The guide I use for tarpon only ties uni to uni and always teases me for the FG! We're going out Saturday to chase some grouper and AJ's if the hurricanes hold off. I'll try your TN on my Sampo swivels this weekend.
Here's my only complaint. On a recent trip on the Yankee Capts out of Key West, I hung the bottom in about 700'. I was running 20# Yo Zuri Super Braid PR Bobbin knotted to 50# Sunline FC100 Fluoro leader and has this TN knot to my swivel. I literally couldn't break off! I had to give my rig to a mate who was finally able to break it. So be warned...it's STRONG!
my deckhand normally uses a large circular foam tool to wrap the braid around a few times and just lets the boat drift do the work. The line eventually snaps at the weakest point and we're jigging with PE5 with 80-100lb leaders...@@masteringrodbuilding
I can vouch for the knot. Just caught a state record queen snapper. It held up just fine. BTW, on a JYG. I see you are working with them. Jorge is good people.
First I've seen of this knot. Just tied one to imprint it on the grey matter. Maybe not the quickest knot but, actually very simple to do. Thank you for sharing. You should warn your viewers about how extremely addictive true Slow-Pitch fishing is!!!
Jon Ramos shhhhhhhh....
Starts at 09:05
Apart formo the finish (similar to rizzuto) i knew the rest of the knot as the chain knot. Am I wrong? I know also another version of the chain knot in which you don’t tie it first around the ring, but just loop it inside the ring and over itself, and then proceed with the half hitches. Never properly tested any of the two on a machine, but I think that theoretically the second version I described should be a 100% knot if it doesn’t come undone a there are practically no knots on the line
You are correct. As stated in the video, this is simply an AG Chain knot that goes through the eye of the hook/swivel three times before completing standing half hitches and ending in a Rizzuto finish. And the Rizzuto finish does not make the knot stronger - it just makes it more fishable by keeping it from coming unwound.
The second knot you mention - where you make a single Cat's Paw splice through the eye (make a loop and go through the ring) is in fact stronger than the regular AG chain knot but NOT as strong as this TN knot. The reason why: if you imagine the knot compressing and elongating under pressure, rather than constricting the three wraps around the ring of the swivel and allowing the line to stretch before breaking (as in the TN knot) your Version 2 knot applies all pressure from one loop to another loop at 90 degrees due to the Cat's Paw.
Kind of hard to visualize but rather than allowing the leader to stretch and elongate without breaking, that version creates a 90 degree shear point and that is where the knot fails. In my experience it will always fail on the side of the Cat's Paw closest to the standing leader line (as opposed to the other side which forms the tag end). Make sense? I'm hoping to borrow some knot breaking equipment again soon and will add this to the list of demos to record. Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding oh that's super interesting. Your explanation makes sense indeed. It'd be great to see some tests done on the various versions as well! Thanks for answering my comment!
@@HBweisse of course. Thanks for watching and for your question!
Can you do that knot on 100-130# MONO LEADER ? THANKS
You bet you can. And it saves you having to crimp! I use it for land based shark fishing all the time.
Is this knot suitable for light shore gigging?? thanks allot
Absolutely! You could argue it is even more beneficial the lighter you go in leader size. It affords you some bite protection and shock resistance. Give it a try!
I know this is totally off topic but I would like to hear your thoughts on choosing a rod blank. As someone new to Rod building the choices are infinite. Even if you narrow it down to my specific fishing which is inshore and offshore saltwater, it only narrows it down to a hundred thousand choices. I can break it down even smaller but that still does not help me. As a professional furniture builder I have learned to appreciate craftsmanship. I can see by watching most of your videos that you are a true Craftsman. The difference between my before rod and my after watching your videos rod is stunning. You have made me a much better Craftsman. I feel that your advice would be very helpful.
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe. That is off topic but there is a wealth of information - including specific blank recommendations - at www.rodbuilding.org
Just search your topic and you'll find a TON of info.
I like it. Agreed regarding Japanese Anglers secrets - Totos walked me through EVERYTHING!in 1 on 1 text msgs - I tie all my own assists now whether spliced or bobbin tied. I actually came up with a method I recommend when you want a really cleanly tied single assist hook that is as short as possible for those little 40-90 gram jigs. Splice a loop in hollow core YGK or similar brand of 220 - 280 lb test (I use A.S.S. 280 blue) & rather than hitching the loop through & around your solid ring, slip the tag end of your hollow core through your ring AS YOU SPLICE the loop. Follow with a dot of glue at the end of the doubled hollow core - just a dot. Give yourself 1-1 1/2 " of doubled hollow core for strength. In this way you dont need a big loop to work through & around a solid ring in fact you can pull it to ALMOST tight around the side of the ring. Next just bobbin tie a spade hook or blind hook as shown on the above mentioned site at other end of your single assist hk & also glue your thread sparingly. The Cultiva hooks are too light for a single hook assist. I like the pike 4/0 as they are beefy enough for rock cod & ling cod here in N Cal. I like this knot of yours. It brings to mind the plaited knot for big gamefish - 1 of my favorite (also a shock absorber knot) great for swivel connection with a catspaw in the loop. Jansek special is my go to if you know it. Similar to this knot but w/o the 1/2 hitches. Tag through the eye or ring twice forming 2 sm loops then tag through those 3 times & draw tight. Simple. Hasnt failed me yet. Youve tied it right when your tag end sticks out at a 90 degree angle & the knot looks like a little fist. Wet b4 drawing tight. Thx 4 sharing. Love this stuff....
I like the toit knot and then finish it with half hitches into a chain knot. It looks similar when finished.
Great explanation of TN Knot! I think you had to go “under” in your second hitch with the rope, as you did with flurocarbon knot.!
Next time black sheet of paper not white.😁
We have been using that knot in Bermuda for decades...it does work well.
Thanks for this video, this is what make the diference, details!
J'aime beaucoup 😃😃😃💪💪💪🐟🐟🐟👍👍👌👌🎣🎣
Hey mate! Can you make a video about your discovery's about the best knots for mono to flouro connections? Or even let us know about your discovery's. Recently I've just been using a double uni or double blood!
Hello E Sandig - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe!
Happy to try to help - are you looking for mono/fluoro to braid knots? Or are you looking for mono to fluoro? Just want to make sure I'm clear what you are after. Cheers!
@@masteringrodbuilding Hi Bill thanks for replying mate!
Yep mono to mono/flouro connections.
Also I was planning on sending you an IM, I have just gotten into rod building. Your videos have been invaluable, your a great educator and the extra back stories and history really add an extra layer! The videos have seriously helped me get at least on the surface a much much better finish than I probably deserve for time Ive spent on this hobbie so thank you!!
Can I use this with knot braid to swivel or is the AG chain knot better for braid? I mainly have braid on my talica 20 , I would be using this for jig fishing for 100-200lb BFT
Neither the AG Chain Knot nor the TN Knot is intended for use with braid - only mono and (ideally) fluorocarbon. And both knots tend to unravel in braid (in addition to being weak.) There are much stronger knots for braid to swivel in my experience.
I'd recommend the improved Uni Knot for this application personally. Second place would be a San Diego Jam Knot. I hope this helps!
Thanks for your help ! I will learn the improved uni knot.
Le pouce de je suis satisfait 👍 👌 🎣 👍 👌 🎣
Oh man!!!!!! I’m about to practice practice practice. I’m trying to present my jigs as clean as possible. And this will definitely help w that. I’m concerned with friction on the mono i notice that nobody talks about that. That’s not a concern ?
It really doesn't take long once you learn it. I can crank one out in under a minute on a rocking boat at night. As far as friction, this knot routinely outperforms all others in tests. So is there some friction? I guess so...but it does NOT impact breaking strength. Hope this helps!
@@masteringrodbuilding that helps! Thanks
Thank you Bill, very clear instruction video on TN knot I have seen so far, well done.
Wow....I will have to try that knot when I start slow pitching...
Awesome, I'm learning a lot here.
Strong for big fish
Can this be used for braid ?
I do not believe this type of knot will be useful on braid, but full disclosure I have not tried it.
@falconercustomrods I thought may be quite good for braid as it creates a littlebot of 'give' . I will give it a try. Bit I don't really have an accurate way to test will be a bit un scientific :)
@@ShorrockPaul you may be right. Please let us know what you find out!
@falconercustomrods chap who tests knots on stripersonline forum tested TN Chain with braid.. is a no go..down to 50%..he said is because in mono the line doesn't actually get to cinch down on itself tightly because it stretches whereas the braid ,not stretching, cinches down tightly on the standing line and cuts it...
Good job Bill. Going to use that on my leaders.
Thank you ❤️
Half hitches are so braid doesn't slip. I don't see how the half hitches make the knot stronger with flouro. The load isn't being held by the hitches.
Half hitches are used for LOTS of things. When you test these knots to failure, they always fail either due to the ring of thw swivel cutting through the line or more often the line cutting itstelf where it crosses itself in a tight turn. This is regardless of knot and regardless of how strong they load prior to failure. It's just mechanically how they fail.
In this case, the half hitches allow the knot to move and stretch. The three times through the ring - coupled with a ring that is at least half the diameter of the fluoro - allow stretch and movement and distribute the load across a much longer section of leader rather than a single point. It is precisely because neither the half hitches nor the manner of the line going through the eye force the load into a single point that the knot is so strong and has so much 'stretch'.
Whether you understand it or not, this knot is likely much stronger than what you are using. Don't believe me? Cut an 8 foot length of leader material. (You might want to use 20# or 30# for this test.) Tie your typical knot (whatever you use today) to a swivel on one end and then tie this knot to a swivel on the other end. Attached a jig with no hooks to each end with heavy duty split rings. Now pull it until one of the knots break. Enough said.
@masteringrodbuilding Allowing the fluoro to distribute the load across a longer section of leader rather than a single point makes sense. I would be using braid main line to a swivel though.
I use either a palomar, improved trilene or an improved trilene with doubled line with a palomar finish around the swivel. But pulling on them myself would be unscientific. I'd like to see all the knots along with the TN on a digital pull system like knot wars use to do. Maybe you could do a video on knots vs the TN like that.
Thanks for the video though. I'll try and find a break test.
@@birdbig1 we are on the same page. The problem is the equipment...roughly $10K to get started with decent equipment you can trust that doesn't wear out. Wore out my first two homebrew sets already.
You are exactly right...the test is unscientific. But this knot will win every single time and that still tells you something practical.
ONE IMPORTANT NOTE: This knot is specifically intended for monofilament and fluorocarbon lines and leaders. It is NOT a strong knot for braid. Just FYI.
Brilliant 👌🎣😍
Interesting! Way more complicated than my palomar knots! Do you have a favorite braid to fluro or mono knot? I have been using the fg never tried the pr bobbin knot
Thanks for watching! The Palomar is a very good knot. That is what I was using for my terminal connection prior to learning this knot...and it works. I still use it a lot for other applications besides SPJ. For me the TN was measurably stronger - test yours and see what you think. I do know some very good SPJ anglers who use the Palomar for their terminal connection.
So...for slow pitch jigging and pure all around strength the PR Knot (sometimes also called the Bobbin Knot or PR Bobbin Knot) is the very best braid to fluorocarbon join I have found. I learned a slightly different (and simpler) way to tie it by watching Bryan Dietz's videos and that's all I use now. Bryan is a very experienced angler and one of the guys behind NLO Jigskinz and the excellent NLO Slow Pitch Jigs (www.nlofishing.com). Bryan also won a big Florida Sportsman Knot Contest with his version of the PR Knot which tested 100%. Here's a link to how he ties it: www.sportfishingmag.com/100-percent-pr-bobbin-knot-video/
My PR knots test stronger than my FG knots so that is all I use for SPJ specifically. That said, there are a few down sides to the PR knot: you need a bobbin, when tied properly it's a fairly long and stiff, and I personally have trouble joining leader under 20# to braid using that knot. So I still use the FG knot either when I don't have a bobbin or I have to tie it fast...very strong join that casts well. And for lighter lines or when I need a more compact knot (like to pass through a bait casting level wind when casting a long leader), both the FG and PR are a bit too long so I'll use a Red Philips knot or a GT knot for that. I also use the Red Philips and the GT for lines under 20#.
Again, all about finding the right knot for the given application and it may not be the same knot everywhere and all the time. Hope this helps!
@@masteringrodbuilding As always I appreciate the reply. I am 100% sure your TN knot is stronger than the palomar. I find it really fascinating seeing how these knots are tied. Watched the PR bobbin knot you linked that's a neat one. You said something that I have found really important and honestly struggled with.... the right knot for the application! I wish there was one fluro to braid knot that was easy and works for everything. I seems to always be using different weights of both leader and braid. Some just don't mix well without the right knot. I tried that GT knot a couple times and it came apart. I can tie an FG just wanted something easier. I have a couple rods I built with the little Fuji guides that are a pain to get any knot through. The guide I use for tarpon only ties uni to uni and always teases me for the FG! We're going out Saturday to chase some grouper and AJ's if the hurricanes hold off. I'll try your TN on my Sampo swivels this weekend.
Yukatan knot. Easy, VERY low profile & a 157 % line strengrh knot. Look for thw video. Its a great knot for braid to mono.
Thanks pretty easy knot to tie! Just did it a couple times.
Actually quite easy and you get really fast with a little practice.
Great knot - used for a year and no failure so far:-)
Here's my only complaint. On a recent trip on the Yankee Capts out of Key West, I hung the bottom in about 700'. I was running 20# Yo Zuri Super Braid PR Bobbin knotted to 50# Sunline FC100 Fluoro leader and has this TN knot to my swivel. I literally couldn't break off! I had to give my rig to a mate who was finally able to break it. So be warned...it's STRONG!
my deckhand normally uses a large circular foam tool to wrap the braid around a few times and just lets the boat drift do the work. The line eventually snaps at the weakest point and we're jigging with PE5 with 80-100lb leaders...@@masteringrodbuilding
👍
best knot for jigging , thank you for the detailed tutorial
Good instructions, Thanks! Will give it a try.
JM style
I can vouch for the knot. Just caught a state record queen snapper. It held up just fine. BTW, on a JYG. I see you are working with them. Jorge is good people.
Oh hell yeah! Congratulations! I'd love for you to share the whole story when you have a chance...and pictures. Which state?
@@masteringrodbuilding Texas. Sent the pic to Jorge.
@@deanlawfirm how big was the fish?
@@masteringrodbuilding 19.4 lbs. 40 inches long. Beats both the conventional and electric standing records.
@@deanlawfirm dude…by 5 pounds! Congratulations
Tenkyou 🇩🇿🇩🇿🇩🇿🇩🇿🇩🇿👍👍👍
Excellent knot ! Thank you !!
Have you made a video of this knot on the machine or scale?
Nope...no video. But have tested them on up to 20# mono in my shop (that's as heavy as I can break). STRONG.
so another name for the AG chain knot
Almost. As I state at 2:04 it is an AG Chain knot that goes through the eye 3 times. It is stronger than an AG Chain Knot...but very similar.
Its macramé knots
Yep…three times through the eye then alternating half hitches.
WAY more trouble than the palomar, and less breaking strength also
Not true, sir. Palomor is less effort/trouble, but is NOT as strong in any monofilament or fluorocarbon. Put it on the machine and test it. We did.