Cool video! The reason for removing twice the height reduction you need is actually simple trigonometry: The 12th fret is exactly half-way between the saddle and the nut, since you are only removing the height on one side - you need to reduce twice as much, so for 1mm reduction you'd need 2mm in the saddle. In theory if you'd reduce the heights of both the saddle and the nut you'd need only 1mm reduction (but normally we don't need to touch the nut!) Cheers.
My kamaka ukulele probably has a high action and the dealer has they can lower it by adjusting the nut and saddle. I thought saddle alone will be a safer option?
@@cottonuke You're right. They are separate thingies. Firstly: the luthier hopefully has set the action at the nut correctly; they measure the play beneath... is it the 3rd fret, or possibly the 1st and the tolerance there is highly specced within tight tolerance. Then one mustn't change sth there that is OK for starters. Then you can test different saddle hights with consequenting string action at the 12th fret; important too for playability. I'd say that the nut setup is extremely important for the basic quality of the instrument; faulty there and you can't get the instrument right. It's a delicate job to sand down the saddle too, esp by hand; generally they use jigs to do it evenly to secure soundboard contact along its length; it's very easy to get the paper to grip on either of the saddle ends. I've destroyed one or two saddles in my days...
I was about to do a saddle adjustment and decided to look for a tape just to refresh myself. Your tips and tricks are an addition to my repertoire of working on saddles thank you very much. And your video is beautifully produced and you are an excellent teacher. Of course I'm subscribing
Good explanation Rachel and so detailed and easy to follow and I love seeing other peoples methods to try to improve mine, especially using basic equipment. Totally agree with being cautious ! when I did my first saddle must admit I bought a spare saddle just in case I had miscalculated or got it wrong. Look forward to seeing a video on how you adjust the nut when action is high there.
Thanks! I've done this a few times now and it does get easier doesn't it and as you say always good to improve methods too! TBH I haven't ever had to lower the action on a nut, just adjust the slot size to accomodate larger guage strings but if I do ever have to, I will try to make the video for it.
nice and informative video thank you! just a suggestion it looks like a 250grit sand paper tho it would do great, i believe a less aggressive sand paper like a 400 grit would give more sanding range to fine tune.
Hi David, I will if I ever have to, so far I've only ever had to alightly alter the nut slot to accomodate a different string. Southern Ukuleles store has a great range of nuts available, definitely worth checking out.
Thanks for the easy to follow instructions, I was going to have to pay to have my concert uke lowered, it's on 3.1mm at the 12th fret at the moment, and as a beginner my finger tips are suffering, but seeing how basic a job it is I think I'll have a go myself, slow and steady eh?
@@UkuleleWales Yes thanks to you, still might take a smidgin more off but giving it a try for now! I could feel a difference straight away, amazing how a few tiny changes makes such much better!!
Great video! I would like to do that to my bass ukulele... also a Batking, on which I put roundwound strings. The action is now quite high and difficult to play. Would it make sense to adjust the truss rod first? I am learning so much from you on this channel! Thank you very much for everything you teach us. Much love from The Netherlands, Lia
Thanks. Is it the solid body Batking. Going from rubber to round wound strings may mean adjusting the truss rod as the tension would be higher. It may need the saddle or nut to be lowered but if you can, try the truss rod first as that isn’t a permanent fix.
In my experience, the truss rod has minimal effect on the string height. My process: Use the truss rod to straighten the neck, then reduce saddle height (and, rarely, nut height) to lower string height. Keep strumming! 😊
In the meantime, a luthier adjusted the nut (filing it to lower the strings). It became easier to play. In the end I wasn’t very happy with the sound, so I recently decided to change the strings to thunder reds. Now it has a warmer sound.
@@UkuleleWales The thing is I never use those either xD the nail files that is.. is the noun a nail file? funny.. Ehm what about your Ukulele collection! I think you should do one video just about your Ukulele collection since my comment under your "Show us your Ukes" video doesnt seem to gather much support. IF you do a video where you introduce all your ukes and what your favourites are and why they are your favourites and do a small speech about ukulele addiction to us and answer this question please, if you would only have time to save one, ukulele, which ukulele would you save?
Hi, it is generally the saddle that needs lowering, even if it is high at the nut. I would lower the saddle first and see if it is still too high on the first few frets.
It's great to see the whole process, Rachel. Just one (minor) quibble: 3.5mm minus 1.5mm equals 2mm not 2.5mm so you removed only 1mm. Don't mind me, it's my OCD (or as we pattern-recognisers like to term it "CDO" because that's it in alphabetical order!). Wonderful information yet again, Rachel. I'm looking forward to your next one.
Thanks Tobias. The way I've been told to measure is to double the amount to remove so in this case I wanted remove 0.75mm so I doubled to 1.5mm. End result was 2.75mm from the original 3.5mm - don't ask me how and I totally agree with you the figures don't really make sense but I was happy with the result. LOL
You're trying to correct her math but she didn't put up math, she put up the original action height, then the saddle adjustment, then the final action height. She also indicated 2.75 as the final action, not 2.5, so you were wrong twice here.
Removing material at the saddle lowers action by half what you remove at the halfway point, ie 12th fret. She removed ~ 1.5 lowering the action by ~ .75 at the 12th fret. That have her a final measurement of ~ 2.75 from the 3.5 she started with.
Always had doubt on doing it myself, thank you so much for showing it step by step. Just wondering, why did you have to put back all the 4 strings before checking? Any difference if I just put back 1 string and check the action?
Glad to have helped. In theory, yes you could just put one string back on to check but I also like to check the other strings to make sure I've sanded the saddle down evenly. Hope that helps.
Hi lovely as always! On my uke when I tune the open strings The fretboard is out of tune (sharp) if I tune to the 12th fret the open strings are out of tune. How can I solve this? The action at 12th fret is just over 3mm. It is a new Kala. Hope you can assist!
HI, lowering the action may help. What is the intonation/ action like on the lower frets like and is it the same on all strings. Sorry it has taken me a while to reply.
It's a VERY rare tool Chris - empty battery box, AA if it helps! LOL I just grabbed something that I thought might be suitable as I seemed to have lost the last bit of foam that I was using. It's worked previously with a tied bridge, not so easy with the pins.
A question to you Madam. It's without any doubt a natural thingy on a guitar that the action is a lot lower for e1 than for that of low E. Obviously a bass string vibrates with higher an amplitude in that respect. Now many comments here have circled around such uke matters. Also w/o doubt a first-class luthier-built uke would have a sloped saddle as well, at least for a baritone or a bass - arguably, for the high-tension ADF#H-family this is of less importance(?). Could one suspect that low-priced ukes are lesser with regard to craftsmanship in this respect, given that many saddles reportedly are straight? - as for my low-priced Kala baritone; straight as the sea horizon. But as I just measured the action now, I found it to be ~2.5 mm - spot on in other word at 12th. Quite a bit of buzz but that's Oki with me 😁 (~0.5 beneath 1st on the other hand, which must be high; I've got quality doubts here, but it sounds OK)
Forgive me if I have not understood. You have a buzz but the action is good and you are concerned it is a problem with the quality? Is it a baritone and does it have wound strings please?
@@UkuleleWales Thanks for sending reply! And, yes, std baritone uke. No, not really, I'm not concerned at all. Just thought about the specs for a line-produced instrument, as the action at 1st fret seemed high. I have to change opinion though, as pressing the 3rd fret allows only a soft moonbeam through at 1st - haven't checked using a blade/shims though - so everything seems to be OK. (In addition, I don't mind it buzzing a bit; gives a percussive flavour.)
Hi, certainly in this case I didn't need to lower the nut and TBH I don't normally need to. Try the saddle first, you may find it solves the problem, you can always try the nut later.
Hi Alan, the tuner is a Jowoom T2 smart tuner. TBH, I don't normally worry too much about the action at first fret as long the 12th fret is okay. It's difficult to measure as it's much lower but I'd say approx. 1mm but it really is a very approx measurement.
@@alandust2188 Apologies, I thought your were talking about the electric winder. The mannual is just a cheapy winder, something like this - www.amazon.co.uk/Tiger-Guitar-String-Winder-Puller/dp/B003V59I72/
@@UkuleleWales So Sorry! Yes, I was talking about the electric winder AND I didn't realize it was a tuner too.....AM I BAD! I'm a little slow BUT I've got it now. Thanks for all your help!!!
I have just received a new baritone its the Thomann Baritone DELUXE and I noticed that the saddle is higher on the side where the D sting ist, its like walking down a hill, the difference to the other side is at least 1 MM, I got in touch with the shop and they said that is normal all bridges are higher on the D side, now I have got a kala bariton as well and on that the saddle ist the same hight alle the way, so is the shop lying or am I stuped?
Hi, I have never heard that saddles should be higher one side and haven’t noticed it on any of my ukuleles. I’ve just checked the Thomann site to see if the ukulele has a compensated saddle but it does not so I think it is a fault with that particular ukulele. If they are not going to replace, it would be possible to remove the saddle to “flatten it” but you shouldn’t have to do this as it might be difficult to get the correct angle. One other thing you could try is to firmly press the D side of the saddle down into the bridge to see it maybe the one side has raised up slightly. I hope this helps.
@@UkuleleWales Thomann sent me an email today, telling me on this ukulele there is a sloopy inlay of the bridge, if it was straight the D and G string would snarl, I posted a video of my problem to the Ukulele Underground Forum, and there is another woman who has got a lanikai with the same sloopy bone, I still think it is funny.
Very useful tutorial! Specially because uses metric measurements. :) Thanks for sharing this precious info in such simple and nice way! Lowered the action of my uke which also was around 3.5mm. But found a plastic strip under de saddle. Is it common? I removed it so could sand less ammount of plastic. Ended between 2.5 / 2.75 what makes a huge difference. But... tone changed a little bit. Has more sustain what is great... but also more acute what is not so great. Could this be related with that plastic strip?
Glad to have been of help. The strip may have been added to raise the height of the action but is it is now better for you that is all that matters. The sustain would be better without the strip as the addle is now touching the actual uke top wood making the vinrations stringer / cleaner.
@@UkuleleWales thank you for your time to answer the question. My only issue was that after lowering the action is sounded less deep that before. But after this time... guess I got used to its new sound.
@@dfelixpt hi there - the other thing that affects the sound is the angle that the string "breaks" over the saddle. If the string angle (from where it is travelling straight from the nut, touching the saddle and then heading towards the bridge pin for example) is flatter due to a lower action vs at more of an angle on a higher action there is different pressure on the sound board causing a variation in the sound it produces...if that explanation makes sense...Kelly
No idea sorry, not very coarse if that helps and I’ve thrown away the pieces that I used for this now. I always find though - sand a bit and then check rather than doing too much in one go and taking it too low. Sorry I can’t give an exact answer.
Hi Cindy I used the following. BOSCH ABRASIVE SPONGES (PKT 3 , medium fine and superfine) Bought it off Amazon. Obviously any DiY should have something similar. And it worked perfectly. Had no previous experience. Followed the video. Thanks a million Rachel
Sorry it wasn't for you. I do all the explaining before I start each part of the job and if I was to show the whole process in real time it really would get very boring.
Cool video!
The reason for removing twice the height reduction you need is actually simple trigonometry: The 12th fret is exactly half-way between the saddle and the nut, since you are only removing the height on one side - you need to reduce twice as much, so for 1mm reduction you'd need 2mm in the saddle. In theory if you'd reduce the heights of both the saddle and the nut you'd need only 1mm reduction (but normally we don't need to touch the nut!)
Cheers.
Thanks for the clear explaination. I'd read something similar but the way you explain it is much better, Thanks.
My kamaka ukulele probably has a high action and the dealer has they can lower it by adjusting the nut and saddle. I thought saddle alone will be a safer option?
@@cottonuke You're right. They are separate thingies. Firstly: the luthier hopefully has set the action at the nut correctly; they measure the play beneath... is it the 3rd fret, or possibly the 1st and the tolerance there is highly specced within tight tolerance. Then one mustn't change sth there that is OK for starters. Then you can test different saddle hights with consequenting string action at the 12th fret; important too for playability. I'd say that the nut setup is extremely important for the basic quality of the instrument; faulty there and you can't get the instrument right. It's a delicate job to sand down the saddle too, esp by hand; generally they use jigs to do it evenly to secure soundboard contact along its length; it's very easy to get the paper to grip on either of the saddle ends. I've destroyed one or two saddles in my days...
I was about to do a saddle adjustment and decided to look for a tape just to refresh myself. Your tips and tricks are an addition to my repertoire of working on saddles thank you very much. And your video is beautifully produced and you are an excellent teacher. Of course I'm subscribing
Thank you for your lovely comment and subscription. Very glad you enjoyed. 😊
I watched a couple of videos and yours was the only comprehensive tutorial that showed the whole process, thank you so much!
Glad it helped, Thanks for such positive feedback, much appreciated.
Your ukulele skills have no boundaries! Thanks for giving us all the confidence to tackle ukulele maintenance. Cheers
Thanks Des, if I can do it so can everyone.
This is a great video - I really like the way you've broken this process down...and the 2 camera angles make it that much better! Thanks - Kelly
Thanks Kelly, so glad you enjoyed, and especially that you appreciate the video making.
Good explanation Rachel and so detailed and easy to follow and I love seeing other peoples methods to try to improve mine, especially using basic equipment. Totally agree with being cautious ! when I did my first saddle must admit I bought a spare saddle just in case I had miscalculated or got it wrong. Look forward to seeing a video on how you adjust the nut when action is high there.
Thanks! I've done this a few times now and it does get easier doesn't it and as you say always good to improve methods too! TBH I haven't ever had to lower the action on a nut, just adjust the slot size to accomodate larger guage strings but if I do ever have to, I will try to make the video for it.
That was perfect. I’ll watch again just before I do it on my new tenor ukulele.
Subscribed 😊
So glad to be helping. 👍
Finally altered the action on my Flight just now Rach! An excellent maintenance vid, thank yooooo! 😊 xx
Yay! Thank you Jude x
You certainly keep busy Rachel! Always things to do aside from playing music. Thanks, very interesting.
Thanks Loree. Yes, I couldn't happily give it to a student knowing the action was a bit high. Glad you enjoyed.
Thank you for posting this instructional video! Blessings to you!
Glad it was helpful Terry, Thanks. 😊
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
Thanks ❤John 3,16 ❤
Thanks
I have a feeling...Is it possible that you like purple? 🤔😉🤗
Thank you for your content here in YT!
I appreciate it a lot 👍
My pleasure 😊
Thanks so much for this tutorial! Love your vids please keep making more!
Thank you! Plenty more videos to come! 😊
a real handywoman 🪶
Thanks! :-)
Thanks Rachel, shared to our group!
Glad to have been of help.
nice and informative video thank you! just a suggestion it looks like a 250grit sand paper tho it would do great, i believe a less aggressive sand paper like a 400 grit would give more sanding range to fine tune.
Thanks and yes, I should have gone finer with the sandpaper to get a better finish. Thanks for the tip.
You're the greatest! Thanks
Thanks, glad to have helped.
Rachel, can you do one on nut calibration too? Where do you get bone nuts?
Hi David, I will if I ever have to, so far I've only ever had to alightly alter the nut slot to accomodate a different string. Southern Ukuleles store has a great range of nuts available, definitely worth checking out.
Thanks for the easy to follow instructions, I was going to have to pay to have my concert uke lowered, it's on 3.1mm at the 12th fret at the moment, and as a beginner my finger tips are suffering, but seeing how basic a job it is I think I'll have a go myself, slow and steady eh?
Glad to have helped and inspired. Hope the job was successful!
@@UkuleleWales Yes thanks to you, still might take a smidgin more off but giving it a try for now! I could feel a difference straight away, amazing how a few tiny changes makes such much better!!
Excellent. Well done.
Would that work on a baritone as well,
Many thanks Drew. Yes, this should work on a baritone uke as well.
Very informative . Thanks .
Thanks David.
Thank you so much ❤️ It’s my case now
Glad to have helped.
Great tutorial. Thank you very much
Glad to have helped.
Fantastic video, I learned a lot.👍
Thanks Nigel, very glad to have helped.
Very well done and so useful, but do tell me, when can we expect your documentary on the Fretwrap? 8^)
Yes, the fretwrap doco keeps getting knocked down the list!! Must try harder LOL ;-)
@@UkuleleWales LOL
Great video! I would like to do that to my bass ukulele... also a Batking, on which I put roundwound strings. The action is now quite high and difficult to play. Would it make sense to adjust the truss rod first? I am learning so much from you on this channel! Thank you very much for everything you teach us. Much love from The Netherlands, Lia
Thanks. Is it the solid body Batking. Going from rubber to round wound strings may mean adjusting the truss rod as the tension would be higher. It may need the saddle or nut to be lowered but if you can, try the truss rod first as that isn’t a permanent fix.
In my experience, the truss rod has minimal effect on the string height. My process: Use the truss rod to straighten the neck, then reduce saddle height (and, rarely, nut height) to lower string height. Keep strumming! 😊
In the meantime, a luthier adjusted the nut (filing it to lower the strings). It became easier to play. In the end I wasn’t very happy with the sound, so I recently decided to change the strings to thunder reds. Now it has a warmer sound.
Hmm the only thing is sandpaper is so freaking annoying to use xD it gives me the shivers .. Your videos are fantastic.
Thanks. Think of it as a free nail filing session too! I do know what you mean though, I'm always very careful whaen using sandpaper.
@@UkuleleWales The thing is I never use those either xD the nail files that is.. is the noun a nail file? funny.. Ehm what about your Ukulele collection! I think you should do one video just about your Ukulele collection since my comment under your "Show us your Ukes" video doesnt seem to gather much support. IF you do a video where you introduce all your ukes and what your favourites are and why they are your favourites and do a small speech about ukulele addiction to us and answer this question please, if you would only have time to save one, ukulele, which ukulele would you save?
Nice one Rach...
Glad it helped Paul, lokking frward to seeing your handy work next KHU!
If the action seems high on the first few frets, is it likely the problem is with the nut, or could it it still be the saddle?
Hi, it is generally the saddle that needs lowering, even if it is high at the nut. I would lower the saddle first and see if it is still too high on the first few frets.
It's great to see the whole process, Rachel. Just one (minor) quibble: 3.5mm minus 1.5mm equals 2mm not 2.5mm so you removed only 1mm. Don't mind me, it's my OCD (or as we pattern-recognisers like to term it "CDO" because that's it in alphabetical order!). Wonderful information yet again, Rachel. I'm looking forward to your next one.
Thanks Tobias. The way I've been told to measure is to double the amount to remove so in this case I wanted remove 0.75mm so I doubled to 1.5mm. End result was 2.75mm from the original 3.5mm - don't ask me how and I totally agree with you the figures don't really make sense but I was happy with the result. LOL
You're trying to correct her math but she didn't put up math, she put up the original action height, then the saddle adjustment, then the final action height. She also indicated 2.75 as the final action, not 2.5, so you were wrong twice here.
Removing material at the saddle lowers action by half what you remove at the halfway point, ie 12th fret. She removed ~ 1.5 lowering the action by ~ .75 at the 12th fret. That have her a final measurement of ~ 2.75 from the 3.5 she started with.
What do you call that string loosening gadget, the automatic one?
It's the jowoom t2 smart tuner, a really great bit of kit. Useful for both tuning and string widning.
Always had doubt on doing it myself, thank you so much for showing it step by step. Just wondering, why did you have to put back all the 4 strings before checking? Any difference if I just put back 1 string and check the action?
Glad to have helped. In theory, yes you could just put one string back on to check but I also like to check the other strings to make sure I've sanded the saddle down evenly. Hope that helps.
Hi lovely as always! On my uke when I tune the open strings The fretboard is out of tune (sharp) if I tune to the 12th fret the open strings are out of tune. How can I solve this? The action at 12th fret is just over 3mm. It is a new Kala. Hope you can assist!
HI, lowering the action may help. What is the intonation/ action like on the lower frets like and is it the same on all strings. Sorry it has taken me a while to reply.
What is the tool that you are putting under the strings as you loosen them and try to get the saddle out?
It's a VERY rare tool Chris - empty battery box, AA if it helps! LOL I just grabbed something that I thought might be suitable as I seemed to have lost the last bit of foam that I was using. It's worked previously with a tied bridge, not so easy with the pins.
Excellent, thank you very much. I suspect my ukulele strings are a bit too high so I will do as you say. Do I hear a Mid Wales accent? Welshpool?
Good luck with the action adjustment, just remember, little by little. Close, I am actually south Wales, but now live in south Powys. 👍
@@UkuleleWales Thank you. We own a static caravan near Caersws and go there as often as possible.
Hi Rachel, you are amazing! What is the make of your strung winder please.
Thanks Julia. The main tuner is the Jowoom T2 smart tuner and the mannual winder is just a cheapy generic string winder.
Thank you Rachel, I learn so much from your tutorials, please keep up the good work x
A question to you Madam. It's without any doubt a natural thingy on a guitar that the action is a lot lower for e1 than for that of low E. Obviously a bass string vibrates with higher an amplitude in that respect. Now many comments here have circled around such uke matters. Also w/o doubt a first-class luthier-built uke would have a sloped saddle as well, at least for a baritone or a bass - arguably, for the high-tension ADF#H-family this is of less importance(?).
Could one suspect that low-priced ukes are lesser with regard to craftsmanship in this respect, given that many saddles reportedly are straight? - as for my low-priced Kala baritone; straight as the sea horizon. But as I just measured the action now, I found it to be ~2.5 mm - spot on in other word at 12th. Quite a bit of buzz but that's Oki with me 😁 (~0.5 beneath 1st on the other hand, which must be high; I've got quality doubts here, but it sounds OK)
Forgive me if I have not understood. You have a buzz but the action is good and you are concerned it is a problem with the quality? Is it a baritone and does it have wound strings please?
@@UkuleleWales Thanks for sending reply! And, yes, std baritone uke. No, not really, I'm not concerned at all. Just thought about the specs for a line-produced instrument, as the action at 1st fret seemed high. I have to change opinion though, as pressing the 3rd fret allows only a soft moonbeam through at 1st - haven't checked using a blade/shims though - so everything seems to be OK. (In addition, I don't mind it buzzing a bit; gives a percussive flavour.)
@@UkuleleWales Let's drop the issue 😁
Haven't watched all this yet but what about the nut? Mine seems too high at the first fret.
Hi, certainly in this case I didn't need to lower the nut and TBH I don't normally need to. Try the saddle first, you may find it solves the problem, you can always try the nut later.
First, what is the string winder you are using, brand & model, please?
Secondly, what height should we be looking at for the first fret?
Thanks!
Hi Alan, the tuner is a Jowoom T2 smart tuner. TBH, I don't normally worry too much about the action at first fret as long the 12th fret is okay. It's difficult to measure as it's much lower but I'd say approx. 1mm but it really is a very approx measurement.
@@UkuleleWales Hey, thanks but I was asking about the STRING WINDER. Thanks for the info on the measurements.
@@alandust2188 Apologies, I thought your were talking about the electric winder. The mannual is just a cheapy winder, something like this - www.amazon.co.uk/Tiger-Guitar-String-Winder-Puller/dp/B003V59I72/
@@UkuleleWales So Sorry! Yes, I was talking about the electric winder AND I didn't realize it was a tuner too.....AM I BAD! I'm a little slow BUT I've got it now. Thanks for all your help!!!
@@alandust2188 No worries at all, just glad to be helping.
I have just received a new baritone its the Thomann Baritone DELUXE and I noticed that the saddle is higher on the side where the D sting ist, its like walking down a hill, the difference to the other side is at least 1 MM, I got in touch with the shop and they said that is normal all bridges are higher on the D side, now I have got a kala bariton as well and on that the saddle ist the same hight alle the way, so is the shop lying or am I stuped?
Hi, I have never heard that saddles should be higher one side and haven’t noticed it on any of my ukuleles. I’ve just checked the Thomann site to see if the ukulele has a compensated saddle but it does not so I think it is a fault with that particular ukulele. If they are not going to replace, it would be possible to remove the saddle to “flatten it” but you shouldn’t have to do this as it might be difficult to get the correct angle. One other thing you could try is to firmly press the D side of the saddle down into the bridge to see it maybe the one side has raised up slightly. I hope this helps.
@@UkuleleWales Thomann sent me an email today, telling me on this ukulele there is a sloopy inlay of the bridge, if it was straight the D and G string would snarl, I posted a video of my problem to the Ukulele Underground Forum, and there is another woman who has got a lanikai with the same sloopy bone, I still think it is funny.
Very useful tutorial! Specially because uses metric measurements. :)
Thanks for sharing this precious info in such simple and nice way!
Lowered the action of my uke which also was around 3.5mm. But found a plastic strip under de saddle. Is it common?
I removed it so could sand less ammount of plastic. Ended between 2.5 / 2.75 what makes a huge difference. But... tone changed a little bit. Has more sustain what is great... but also more acute what is not so great. Could this be related with that plastic strip?
Glad to have been of help. The strip may have been added to raise the height of the action but is it is now better for you that is all that matters. The sustain would be better without the strip as the addle is now touching the actual uke top wood making the vinrations stringer / cleaner.
@@UkuleleWales thank you for your time to answer the question. My only issue was that after lowering the action is sounded less deep that before. But after this time... guess I got used to its new sound.
@@dfelixpt hi there - the other thing that affects the sound is the angle that the string "breaks" over the saddle. If the string angle (from where it is travelling straight from the nut, touching the saddle and then heading towards the bridge pin for example) is flatter due to a lower action vs at more of an angle on a higher action there is different pressure on the sound board causing a variation in the sound it produces...if that explanation makes sense...Kelly
What number is your sand paper?
No idea sorry, not very coarse if that helps and I’ve thrown away the pieces that I used for this now. I always find though - sand a bit and then check rather than doing too much in one go and taking it too low. Sorry I can’t give an exact answer.
Who on earth is this lady!,,,,,,.? Got to find out more, John fro Oz
Hi John loved your comment! 😊
What grain of sandpaper did you use?
No idea, just what ever came to hand sorry. It wasn't very rough - does that help? I can check if you need me too but I wasn't to concerned about it.
Hi Cindy I used the following.
BOSCH ABRASIVE SPONGES (PKT 3 , medium fine and superfine)
Bought it off Amazon. Obviously any DiY should have something similar. And it worked perfectly. Had no previous experience. Followed the video. Thanks a million Rachel
Missing bass
I know, I'm sorry. Hopefully by now a few more have appeared and the next few lessons have been filmed ready for editing.
You need to talk when your showing us what your doing. Music is wortheless. I got nothing out of this, going to Stewmac for real lesson.
Sorry it wasn't for you. I do all the explaining before I start each part of the job and if I was to show the whole process in real time it really would get very boring.