Great design, very well made.. good work.. Looking at the 2 jigs you made to stop the track from spreading, could you attach them to the saw slider, so that they move with the saw, rather than having to stop cutting to reposition them.. To assist in them sliding along the outer edges of the the track, you could mount some bearings to each end to act as rollers on the outer rail.
How refreshing. Every UA-camr has the same Festool, Kreg, Red Tools, even the same darn Pentel pencil. You get a like and a sub for being real. This was from 3 year ago, so I hope you didn't fall into the same traps LOL!
Man that's awesome. Put in vinyl plank floors w/ my old lady. Made her a cutting table so she could help. Could have easily adapted this design to a scoring blade. But now I can get that 4x8 down to fit in the car size in the parking lot and not lose 2" getting everything back square Awesome job. I agree with everyone that the tune up at the end is top notch
Thank you very much! Yeah, that was my original purpose. I have a 4runner but trying to attach a piece of plywood to the roof was not going to happen. Now I can cut it down to size in the parking lot.
~straight-ish. Trying to imagine source of supply for rails that hold maybe 1/64" over 8' straight, build in that amount of precision, and really match my Design Goal!
Great design, simple build and very useful. I came from the instructable, but as a design engineer, all I need is the video, and your step by step voice over with the logic was excellent. I will have to add this to my other 5 million projects to do :-)
Yep...and up until recently I wasted wood. The best part of doing this and knowing there will be a better final version later, is thinking about how to improve things as you go.
One off the best diy tracks I've seen , give the big names with multimillion prototype, money putz them to shame ,so the prices of track saws and track will need to re,think well done buddy sub,n like 👍
Nice job, I especially like the jigs at the end. A tip to make the sighting of the line below easier is to drill a 1 or 1.5inch hole every foot or so along the cut line, it won't cause the saw to skip but gives a bigger viewing area at regular intervals
Just really getting started. Love the instructions on why you did it. As well the prototype first then a better version. It all is great to see and helps build the confidence to do it. Thanks
This is something new which I saw today but different from the rest. It's so easy to build and most reliable and specific. Thanks boi for the idea and please share the build info.✌️🙏🇮🇳👍👍👍
Another goodie Rob. Thank you for all the efforts you put into your vids mate, they look terrific. The sawdust opening sequence is just super. My favourite part of the build is the retainer bars at the end there - it did occur to me that the access cut was pretty well cutting the tracks into two so I was glad to see those after-thought strengtheners. Definitely getting to be the very best how-to channel on UA-cam mate. Thanks again.
Haha, I don't know about the best...I just aim to not be the in the 10% worst 😂 I LOVE it when people comment on the small "LMT" opening bits. That one was done with a subwoofer and a little youtube bass check music, all reversed of course. And yep, that was a scary thing when I realized it could drift open. Adding those jigs for the jig made it bullet proof. Thanks for always being in my comments Mark, really.
@@MakeThings I wondered if it was done with something vibrating but I assumed that it was something in the workshop. I have a lot of wobbly tools in mine...
@@MakeThings Because I like (or rather would like) to include in my vids, details for the sake of entertainment, I really appreciate the time and effort you put into yours. It can be a bit frustrating realising that most folks don't even notice but I think this ought to encourage us - the Roman poet Ovid said "it art is concealed it succeeds." That took a bit of finding - I hope you appreciate that;-)
Mark McCluney haha I do appreciate it! If you had any idea how many hours were put in a single video... This project alone had me going 36 hours without sleep from Saturday afternoon to Sunday night. Friday was about 12 hours...and that was after recording 100 gigs of data from the two weeks prior. I can’t imagine how much time went into the entire project. So I appreciate hearing you mention something or the occasional positive comments. Some of the negative ones really make me want to bang my soul into a wall. 🤪
@@MakeThings I'm amazed to hear your channel has attracted any negative remarks, really. I hadn't noticed them. It's all part of the game I suppose but those things are hard to shrug off - perhaps the best way to deal with those kind of folks is to acknowledge that's it's mostly just immaturity and hope they 'wise up', as we say here. Incidentally mate, don't go without sleep to get the job done - you make quality stuff, it's worth waiting for. Don't make yourself I'll, no kiddin'.
Often wanted something like this at home, but knew the commercial ones at the big box stores are mega expensive. Seems like the jigs at 8:28 could be built onto the saw sled. Would have to either recess the hinges or develop some other way to attach the sections to each other. But this would maintain that rigidity as you make the cut.
Nice set of plans, and as usual a great video. Wish you had made this sooner. I've had the Rockler panel cutter system for over ten years now. 🤣 But that was when I was working as an RN and could actually work in my shop. 😢
when cutting conduit .. use a tubing cutter cut half way to 3/4 of the way through it .. remove the cutter .. and snap the conduit .. no burrs and its a straight cut
Very Nice build technique and quite useful tool especially if you rip a lot of panels often. Since I only do his every 2-3 years, such a purpose built sled is overkill for me and I use a piece 1x1 channel as the guide and fence which is clamped strategically to the panel to prevent channel deflection from horizontal thrust. The shown sled technique avoids the side thrust issue.
Yep, it could be overkill, and I agree, I usually wouldn't have much reason to cut plywood down. Still...those few times I need to do it is usually when I don't have a way to fit it in my vehicle. Thanks for watching.
Awesome! I like what you have done. I have seen some sleds incorporate non-slip tread tape that is used on stair treads. I have used the non-slip tread tape to my DIY tracksled but I am going to rebuild and use your design.
Instead of having to remove a support and add one in just attach it to the sled directly so that it will slide along and keep the sides together. Should be able to take and set it up so it will slide along above the hinges if you move them to the bottom instead of the middle of the rail. If both ends are clamped in place it should not be an issue with any flexing. It's also possible to do something that is single sided and allows the saw to float on the blade side. Two tubes spaced two inches apart with a gap under them where the sled slides along with a pin at either end of the sled to it stays in line. This way there is no need to worry about flex as you can screw a piece of ply to the top and bottom. Could go as far as to use rollers instead of dowels, similar to how a roller coaster stays on the rails.
@@BrilliantDesignOnline I was thinking the same 'zact thing! Inspires me to want to raid my local Ace-place, and think about tossing some green maybe in the future on some linear-bearings
Nice one....Maybe raise the rails a fraction to accommodate saw dust when cutting and for ease of cleaning. And maybe incorporate some form of clamping of the jig to the work piece?
Peter, as far as the dust goes, I think there's enough space for that as the circular saw sled doesn't take up hardly any space in the tracks. I had some ideas for a clamp to add to the front and back that would work on a pivot to hold wood below it, but thought that it would probably only work with either 4' or 8' sections. There's some room for that though.
Have you thought of attaching the spreader jig to the saw base? Then you don't have to stop and reposition them. Other than that a very cool, practical project. Thanks
Mount the conduit in pre cut shallow 3/16x3/16 .. or what ever the kerf size. Mount it, then put the sides on. Basically, building from one true edge for linearity. You won't need those spreader block.
Interesting... However unless they jacked the price up... A Kreg rip cut is 50.00 and less messing around... I have used one of years now. And keep a dedicated saw attached to it. Only problem with the rip cut is you have to be careful not to break the measurement pointer.
EXCELLENT step by step, loved the additional mods at the end (NO design is ever perfect on the first try, I ALWAYS say, "Man, I wish I had done that differently..." Nice job!
great build!! if I may add..... what if you remove the blade-side of the track and only leave conduits at each end for the joints and those holders, but remove the side rails along the midsections of each piece..... that way, you can see your cuts better.
Make Things Hi Rob, thanks for asking. I’m actually doing very well and recently got a pretty good report from my cardiologist. I’ve been very busy on the trophy project. That project has a deadline so it gets TOP priority for my time. It may be ready for the first coat of lacquer tomorrow and should be finished by the end of next week. I’m hopping I have the right video clips to make a video of the trophy project but I’m not sure. While I waited for glue to dry on the trophy subassemblies I’ve been wading through literally hours of video shots getting the pizza cutter video ready. While waiting for something to dry in the shop today I got most of the first video finished and also recorded the beginning and ending clips. If all goes well with it and the trophy project the pizza cutter video should be on UA-cam by the end of next week. I also have video clips ready for editing on the Rockler lathe dust collector, the light I’m using on my lathe and a review of my SawStop. I’m also planning a remake of the video on the Woodsmith rules because I’ve added their newer 18” rule to my tool collection. New videos are in the works and will be coming. So, even though only the FrogBlanks coffee scoop video has been posted on UA-cam recently I have been very busy in the shop. This is also the time of year we have a lot of dog shows. Many of my weekends have been taken up by going to the shows and washing dogs on Thursday or Friday before the shows takes time out of my schedule. I’ve also helping Pam when the dogs have vet or nail trimming appointments. What I haven’t been doing enough of is my walking. In fact that’s something that my cardiologist mentioned when I saw him last week. As a result Thursday Pam and I are getting out of the house and going to Disneyland. It’s a great place to walk and have a fun day.
Agreed! My buddy built himself one similar to this and originally he didn’t have the site holes. After using it for a few months he added them and it truly does make a difference.
I wonder if you went up to a 2" conduit if the added rigidity would be enough to do away with the wood sides, and making the frame straighter and sturdier.
You've probably already considered this, but what about drilling/threading the conduit & wood where they overlap and using a knob bolt to hold them together? That way it'll hold the tracks together as well as keep the conduit pulled to the outside at those joints where you otherwise wouldn't have been able to
G’day mate, downright clever ingenuity & the fact you show a prototype & then a finale is top notch, there are variations of this build to break down goods & yours is a very nice approach 🍻🍻👍👍👍👍👍
I liked your video very much. Well thought out, filmed and edited. It turned out nice. I wonder if adding your moveable jigs to the front and back of the sled would work. Kind of like a moveable clamp to keep the conduit parallel. Just a thought.
Ok nice job, great quality video, full marks for improvement details. But - and I'm no carpenter here - what is the advantage of the track saw compared to an unencumbered circular saw and a clamp-on saw guide? I have two guides and even the fancy one couldn't have cost me much more than $50 or I'd have balked.
Thanks for the compliments! Having used this for a bit I can say that it eliminates chip out and makes cutting a straight line dummy proof. For example, my 12 year old daughter, having never cut a board, much less use a circular saw, easily cut the pieces she needed off of a piece of plywood for a desk in her bedroom. There’s no wiggle room for error. The one thing I really wanted to add to the saw that just didn’t make it due to time was the non slip addition to the bottom so that clamps are completely unnecessary.
@@MakeThings Fair 'nuff. I suppose I just don't have the need often enough to justify it. The times I've needed a truly straight clean cut - even in 1/4" G1S - I've been shocked at how well it came out just with a guide and an old corded Skil saw - or a cordless M18 nowadays. Anyway, again, nice work. I'll be checking out more I'm sure.
someone makes a device like that you can change out the skill saw with a router or about any tool you have, however its a track system and the tool sits off the side of the track. I like what you did but seriously you can make one with just 2 pieces of plywood to fit your saw. this looks more like a speedy cut panel saw.
This is my fifth (and last) diy track saw video tonight. You've got a winner here, great job. Also, did I hear you mention that you cut down plywood at the store? I've always wondered about that, but assumed it was illegal or at least heavily frowned upon to make cuts in the parking lot.
Just bring a broom and dust pan and don't leave a mess (sweep off the cart as well). I've done this for years a HD & Lowes no issues (of course do this in an area of the parking lot away from other customers).
If you're looking for free plans to make this Track Saw, click below!
www.instructables.com/id/Conduit-Track-Saw-Only-2-Power-Tools-50/
Great design, very well made.. good work..
Looking at the 2 jigs you made to stop the track from spreading, could you attach them to the saw slider, so that they move with the saw, rather than having to stop cutting to reposition them..
To assist in them sliding along the outer edges of the the track, you could mount some bearings to each end to act as rollers on the outer rail.
I just deleted my file on Trac Saws…..and created a new file. What a simple full proof method for a track saw. Fantastic idea and thanks for sharing!
How refreshing. Every UA-camr has the same Festool, Kreg, Red Tools, even the same darn Pentel pencil. You get a like and a sub for being real. This was from 3 year ago, so I hope you didn't fall into the same traps LOL!
I do believe this is the best and easiest build for a track saw and cost effective . Job well done.
WOW so far the cheapest and by far the better DIY track saw out there. great video
Thanks Joseph!
Excellent product. I love how you start with a prototype and fine tune it in the end. Thank you!
Thanks James! Always more fun working with hardwood.
I like your ideas, but hate the jerky video. Why can't your videos run smoothly?
Man that's awesome. Put in vinyl plank floors w/ my old lady. Made her a cutting table so she could help. Could have easily adapted this design to a scoring blade.
But now I can get that 4x8 down to fit in the car size in the parking lot and not lose 2" getting everything back square
Awesome job. I agree with everyone that the tune up at the end is top notch
Thank you very much! Yeah, that was my original purpose. I have a 4runner but trying to attach a piece of plywood to the roof was not going to happen. Now I can cut it down to size in the parking lot.
The idea of using conduit is clever for the rails. Inexpensive and straight :)
~straight-ish. Trying to imagine source of supply for rails that hold maybe 1/64"
over 8' straight, build in that amount of precision, and really match my
Design Goal!
Love the hinges with the hairpin clips idea 💡 . 👍
Great design, simple build and very useful. I came from the instructable, but as a design engineer, all I need is the video, and your step by step voice over with the logic was excellent. I will have to add this to my other 5 million projects to do :-)
From an unofficial design engineer to a real one, thank you.
Nice project. One suggestion for the video is to tune the white balance to your shop lights so the whole video doesn't have a yellow cast. Cheers.
Thanks...I've been struggling with lighting and my camera for years now.
those pipes are eye candy
Very nice. Really like the hardwood version.
It’s always good to prototype in less expensive materials to proof the concept.
Yep...and up until recently I wasted wood. The best part of doing this and knowing there will be a better final version later, is thinking about how to improve things as you go.
One off the best diy tracks I've seen , give the big names with multimillion prototype, money putz them to shame ,so the prices of track saws and track will need to re,think well done buddy sub,n like 👍
Nice job, I especially like the jigs at the end. A tip to make the sighting of the line below easier is to drill a 1 or 1.5inch hole every foot or so along the cut line, it won't cause the saw to skip but gives a bigger viewing area at regular intervals
I like that idea!
@@MakeThings without support the wood can rip up, your way with the angle relief is way better
Love all the hacks you came up with to improve the prototype. Great thinking, and good build. Thanks.
Thanks Jeff!
I can see this will be my goto track saw. Nicely done. I appreciate the improvements too.
Just really getting started. Love the instructions on why you did it. As well the prototype first then a better version. It all is great to see and helps build the confidence to do it. Thanks
This old carpenter say's "Thanks" for the fun build!
Nice work. I like the second version for sure
Me too!
That's a fantastic idea and you can't beat the cost. Well done again sir!
Thanks guys, I appreciate it!
This is something new which I saw today but different from the rest. It's so easy to build and most reliable and specific. Thanks boi for the idea and please share the build info.✌️🙏🇮🇳👍👍👍
Excellent! Wish I'd waited longer to buy my track saw. Oh well, I can still use this idea to make a sliding table for my table saw. Many thanks.
Thanks Joe!
Nice track saw Rob! Thanks for sharing the video with us! 💖👌👍😎JP
Thanks JP, I appreciate it!
Your very welcome Rob! Have a great week!😎
Another goodie Rob. Thank you for all the efforts you put into your vids mate, they look terrific. The sawdust opening sequence is just super. My favourite part of the build is the retainer bars at the end there - it did occur to me that the access cut was pretty well cutting the tracks into two so I was glad to see those after-thought strengtheners. Definitely getting to be the very best how-to channel on UA-cam mate. Thanks again.
Haha, I don't know about the best...I just aim to not be the in the 10% worst 😂
I LOVE it when people comment on the small "LMT" opening bits. That one was done with a subwoofer and a little youtube bass check music, all reversed of course.
And yep, that was a scary thing when I realized it could drift open. Adding those jigs for the jig made it bullet proof.
Thanks for always being in my comments Mark, really.
@@MakeThings I wondered if it was done with something vibrating but I assumed that it was something in the workshop. I have a lot of wobbly tools in mine...
@@MakeThings Because I like (or rather would like) to include in my vids, details for the sake of entertainment, I really appreciate the time and effort you put into yours. It can be a bit frustrating realising that most folks don't even notice but I think this ought to encourage us - the Roman poet Ovid said "it art is concealed it succeeds." That took a bit of finding - I hope you appreciate that;-)
Mark McCluney haha I do appreciate it!
If you had any idea how many hours were put in a single video...
This project alone had me going 36 hours without sleep from Saturday afternoon to Sunday night.
Friday was about 12 hours...and that was after recording 100 gigs of data from the two weeks prior. I can’t imagine how much time went into the entire project. So I appreciate hearing you mention something or the occasional positive comments. Some of the negative ones really make me want to bang my soul into a wall. 🤪
@@MakeThings I'm amazed to hear your channel has attracted any negative remarks, really. I hadn't noticed them. It's all part of the game I suppose but those things are hard to shrug off - perhaps the best way to deal with those kind of folks is to acknowledge that's it's mostly just immaturity and hope they 'wise up', as we say here. Incidentally mate, don't go without sleep to get the job done - you make quality stuff, it's worth waiting for. Don't make yourself I'll, no kiddin'.
Cool jig, Rob! That's certainly cheaper than the store bought things.
Billy
Definitely! Thanks for watching Billy!
Often wanted something like this at home, but knew the commercial ones at the big box stores are mega expensive. Seems like the jigs at 8:28 could be built onto the saw sled. Would have to either recess the hinges or develop some other way to attach the sections to each other. But this would maintain that rigidity as you make the cut.
How do you not have more subs great job as always
Great looking sled
Don't forget you could always use a little Wax to make it slide easy. Good job!!!
Great idea!
Nice job. Very good video with clear explanations. Thanks for sharing
Nice set of plans, and as usual a great video. Wish you had made this sooner. I've had the Rockler panel cutter system for over ten years now. 🤣 But that was when I was working as an RN and could actually work in my shop. 😢
Terrific idea & very well executed Rob! Looking forward to the follow up video.... 👍👍
ua-cam.com/video/T1q_PFn2KBw/v-deo.html
That's kind of the follow up to it (which is the final build with a few extras built in).
Thanks Steve.
Liked your project very much. I really can use it! Thank you for sharing it. I am looking forward to the follow up!
Thanks. Nice jig.
when cutting conduit .. use a tubing cutter cut half way to 3/4 of the way through it .. remove the cutter .. and snap the conduit .. no burrs and its a straight cut
Very Nice build technique and quite useful tool especially if you rip a lot of panels often. Since I only do his every 2-3 years, such a purpose built sled is overkill for me and I use a piece 1x1 channel as the guide and fence which is clamped strategically to the panel to prevent channel deflection from horizontal thrust. The shown sled technique avoids the side thrust issue.
Yep, it could be overkill, and I agree, I usually wouldn't have much reason to cut plywood down. Still...those few times I need to do it is usually when I don't have a way to fit it in my vehicle. Thanks for watching.
Rob you’re killing it. I have been subbed, but realized the bell hasn’t been clicked. Haven’t seen a video in a while.
Thanks Chad, that means a lot to me bro. 👊
I’d still love to collab with you some day.
Make Things lets do it. I’m going full time and looking for content. So I’m open. Send me an email. Mancrafting101@gmail.com
Awesome! I like what you have done. I have seen some sleds incorporate non-slip tread tape that is used on stair treads. I have used the non-slip tread tape to my DIY tracksled but I am going to rebuild and use your design.
Great idea and very lost cost. Nice work, very creative......
very nice version of a useful tool
45 seconds in and I like where this is going!
Awesome channel 👍
Instead of having to remove a support and add one in just attach it to the sled directly so that it will slide along and keep the sides together. Should be able to take and set it up so it will slide along above the hinges if you move them to the bottom instead of the middle of the rail. If both ends are clamped in place it should not be an issue with any flexing. It's also possible to do something that is single sided and allows the saw to float on the blade side. Two tubes spaced two inches apart with a gap under them where the sled slides along with a pin at either end of the sled to it stays in line. This way there is no need to worry about flex as you can screw a piece of ply to the top and bottom. Could go as far as to use rollers instead of dowels, similar to how a roller coaster stays on the rails.
I agree, a simple cross member with urethane bearinged 'scooter' wheels to ride the side plates.
@@BrilliantDesignOnline I was thinking the same 'zact thing! Inspires me to want to raid my local Ace-place, and think about tossing some green maybe in the future on some linear-bearings
Great video and jig Rob!!! I was a little let down though...... *no knobs* 😄😄
I was reaaaally close to adding one...I'll make it up to you next time 😜
Very Cool build, thanks for sharing
Great tutorial, I'm excited about the follow up.
ua-cam.com/video/T1q_PFn2KBw/v-deo.html
That's kind of the follow up to it (which is the final build with a few extras built in).
Thanks Mark.
@@MakeThings ok I was happy with that part ,I misunderstood you and thought we were getting a bonus video, thanks.
Ive watched a bunch of these DIYs, and love this 🏁 plus free plans…‘Subscribed’! But still, trying to make 10’ rip in 2.25” hard maple 🤔🤔🤔😵💫
Interesting sled idea. I like the improvements too.
Hey Bruce, thank you!
Love the hinge pin!
Very creative
Nice one....Maybe raise the rails a fraction to accommodate saw dust when cutting and for ease of cleaning. And maybe incorporate some form of clamping of the jig to the work piece?
Peter, as far as the dust goes, I think there's enough space for that as the circular saw sled doesn't take up hardly any space in the tracks. I had some ideas for a clamp to add to the front and back that would work on a pivot to hold wood below it, but thought that it would probably only work with either 4' or 8' sections. There's some room for that though.
Dude, this is Fantastic! Also, i love the way that you improved the prototype and shared with us. This makes me your newest subscriber. Brilliant!!
Have you thought of attaching the spreader jig to the saw base? Then you don't have to stop and reposition them.
Other than that a very cool, practical project.
Thanks
Don't know if I need this but great build. I think it would be a good addition to my tools
brilliant design
Mount the conduit in pre cut shallow 3/16x3/16 .. or what ever the kerf size.
Mount it, then put the sides on.
Basically, building from one true edge for linearity. You won't need those spreader block.
Super tool. How to find the right clue at the right time. Thanks
Awesome build, thank you for sharing your time and skills.
As always an excellent video well presented, thanks for sharing the plans
Thanks and my pleasure.
Wow! I really enjoyed that video. Thank you... I subscribed.
Interesting... However unless they jacked the price up... A Kreg rip cut is 50.00 and less messing around... I have used one of years now. And keep a dedicated saw attached to it. Only problem with the rip cut is you have to be careful not to break the measurement pointer.
Very good video THUMBS UP!
This is such a clever idea. Thanks for putting up the video, and yes I have subscribed AND hit the bell...
EXCELLENT step by step, loved the additional mods at the end (NO design is ever perfect on the first try, I ALWAYS say, "Man, I wish I had done that differently..."
Nice job!
great build!!
if I may add..... what if you remove the blade-side of the track and only leave conduits at each end for the joints and those holders, but remove the side rails along the midsections of each piece..... that way, you can see your cuts better.
Another outstanding idea!
Thanks Don...how's your health? I've been looking and haven't seen any recent videos from you. Just hope you're doing alright.
Make Things Hi Rob, thanks for asking. I’m actually doing very well and recently got a pretty good report from my cardiologist.
I’ve been very busy on the trophy project. That project has a deadline so it gets TOP priority for my time. It may be ready for the first coat of lacquer tomorrow and should be finished by the end of next week. I’m hopping I have the right video clips to make a video of the trophy project but I’m not sure. While I waited for glue to dry on the trophy subassemblies I’ve been wading through literally hours of video shots getting the pizza cutter video ready. While waiting for something to dry in the shop today I got most of the first video finished and also recorded the beginning and ending clips. If all goes well with it and the trophy project the pizza cutter video should be on UA-cam by the end of next week. I also have video clips ready for editing on the Rockler lathe dust collector, the light I’m using on my lathe and a review of my SawStop. I’m also planning a remake of the video on the Woodsmith rules because I’ve added their newer 18” rule to my tool collection. New videos are in the works and will be coming.
So, even though only the FrogBlanks coffee scoop video has been posted on UA-cam recently I have been very busy in the shop. This is also the time of year we have a lot of dog shows. Many of my weekends have been taken up by going to the shows and washing dogs on Thursday or Friday before the shows takes time out of my schedule. I’ve also helping Pam when the dogs have vet or nail trimming appointments. What I haven’t been doing enough of is my walking. In fact that’s something that my cardiologist mentioned when I saw him last week. As a result Thursday Pam and I are getting out of the house and going to Disneyland. It’s a great place to walk and have a fun day.
Another great project.
Thanks Maxx.
a slight improvement might be adding site holes down the middle of the sled
Agreed! My buddy built himself one similar to this and originally he didn’t have the site holes. After using it for a few months he added them and it truly does make a difference.
Thank you so much plan and SIMPLE
I wonder if you went up to a 2" conduit if the added rigidity would be enough to do away with the wood sides, and making the frame straighter and sturdier.
You've probably already considered this, but what about drilling/threading the conduit & wood where they overlap and using a knob bolt to hold them together? That way it'll hold the tracks together as well as keep the conduit pulled to the outside at those joints where you otherwise wouldn't have been able to
For those interested in making this watch and listen to the whole video. Lots of tips and information to make this much easier for you. 👍👍👍
Nice tutorial type video ....
new Subscriber
Very nice Ingenuity is an awesome thing.
Totally agree, thank you
very well done!!
I use 2 8doubles and a rip with a factory edge. Cuts come out perfect every time.
Nice video, great instructions. Cool design and fabrication. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Thank you, and Mahalo for watching!
G’day mate, downright clever ingenuity & the fact you show a prototype & then a finale is top notch, there are variations of this build to break down goods & yours is a very nice approach 🍻🍻👍👍👍👍👍
My brother from an Aussie mother...thanks man, I appreciate it! Video coming soon, right?
What a great idea. I think I'm going to make it out of PVC. Would make it lighter and slide better too.
jim ledsome did you make it is it stable enough thanks
PVC came to my mind right away to............because of weight. I used one simple U channel.
Good idea
Really cool! Thank you for sharing this.
I liked your video very much. Well thought out, filmed and edited. It turned out nice. I wonder if adding your moveable jigs to the front and back of the sled would work. Kind of like a moveable clamp to keep the conduit parallel. Just a thought.
Thanks for the tips! The only problem is that it hits the clamps on the sides.
Wow! Great job! 👍👍
If you don't want to have to move those last two jigs (the work-around to keep the jig straight), attach them to the front and back of the saw sled.
I’ve seen this a few times...and it’s a great idea...but it makes clamping the track down impossible.
Fantastic design, thank you!
Ok nice job, great quality video, full marks for improvement details. But - and I'm no carpenter here - what is the advantage of the track saw compared to an unencumbered circular saw and a clamp-on saw guide? I have two guides and even the fancy one couldn't have cost me much more than $50 or I'd have balked.
Thanks for the compliments!
Having used this for a bit I can say that it eliminates chip out and makes cutting a straight line dummy proof.
For example, my 12 year old daughter, having never cut a board, much less use a circular saw, easily cut the pieces she needed off of a piece of plywood for a desk in her bedroom. There’s no wiggle room for error.
The one thing I really wanted to add to the saw that just didn’t make it due to time was the non slip addition to the bottom so that clamps are completely unnecessary.
@@MakeThings Fair 'nuff. I suppose I just don't have the need often enough to justify it. The times I've needed a truly straight clean cut - even in 1/4" G1S - I've been shocked at how well it came out just with a guide and an old corded Skil saw - or a cordless M18 nowadays.
Anyway, again, nice work. I'll be checking out more I'm sure.
To cut conduit ,try using a pipe cutter with built in reemer
someone makes a device like that you can change out the skill saw with a router or about any tool you have, however its a track system and the tool sits off the side of the track.
I like what you did but seriously you can make one with just 2 pieces of plywood to fit your saw.
this looks more like a speedy cut panel saw.
That hinge is the smartest thing i have seen
Thanks Jon!
Awesome job! I can see this type of track saw in my future!
Grant! Hey buddy, thank you!
You are good !!! Respect 👍👊
This is my fifth (and last) diy track saw video tonight. You've got a winner here, great job. Also, did I hear you mention that you cut down plywood at the store? I've always wondered about that, but assumed it was illegal or at least heavily frowned upon to make cuts in the parking lot.
Just bring a broom and dust pan and don't leave a mess (sweep off the cart as well). I've done this for years a HD & Lowes no issues (of course do this in an area of the parking lot away from other customers).
Can you simply join Jig A/B onto the front/back of the saw so it provides lateral stabilisation that's always close to the saw?
That's an interesting idea. I'm wondering how that would do with sawdust, at least on the front. I like it though!
You can probably eliminate sawdust problem by using rounded blocks at your contact points.
Well done!
great jig
Why not attach the width jig to the front of the sled eh?
Nice.
thought about buying a shirt or a mug but then figured i'd just make one. tutorial coming soon!
jk.
good build!
Brilliant!!