Excellent video. I will be cutting a 24"×24" opening through an 8" wide block wall, its a non load bearing wall for an animal exhibit and I like the method of building one as one of your previous videos demonstrated. In this video you installed 2 lintels (is that common?) What are the width sizes? As for the height do you recommend 6" tall to make it easy to install and then fill in above lintel with a 2 " block and mortar in place? Thank you. Armando
Mike: The finished job radiates "Pure Class," and the Passage seems to add a calmimg aura of stability to the structure....very well done...high level result!
Brilliant video. I’ve got to put an interior doorway into an unsupporting wall. I reckon a lintel is the way to go, if if it is only holding up a couple of rows of bricks.
Mike, I've been spending time in Baltimore taking care of my dad, and they have amazing brickwork. Can you do a video explaining how they made the brick window & door arches (instead of standard stone lintel or steel)? Many of the older buildings have brick arches and brick sills, and they seem solid. Much thanks!
Nice work Mike. I have an old building with ~6 inch concrete/plaster walls and I need to enlarge 2 doorway sfor ADA accessibility from around 32 inches to 36 inches (to replace the 30 wide inch door with a 34 inch wide door). The wall isn't load bearing, so just cut it open with a saw with a diamond blade and then install the new door and frame?
"There is no right or wrong way to do it, just do it!" Oh and "Nothing sticks to dust." When i get done with concrete work and the person tries to thank me(the money is thanks enough), I tell them to thank Mike.
I am looking to install and exterior door into a cinder block wall. There will be another 6 to feet above where the cinder blocks would be cut out. There is a roof and is load bearing. What should I do to create temporary structural support until lintel installed?
Recently bought a 1900s school house to fix up as a home, all the walls are cement block and I want to open up a few doorways with arches.... I cannot find any videos showing how to make an arched lentil for a block wall... any advice?? I’ve seen your other video where you made a lentil with some blocks and such... would it be basically along those lines?? Or would you recommend something else? The ceilings are about 2 floors high so there’s a lot of wall on top.. which is my biggest worry
HiTara, that’s a hard one to answer, I never had a problem cutting it out and arching it, basicly the same ,but I would get some opinions from the locals before you make any decision, thanks mike
Hi Sammy, everything depends, lots of castles, churches, cathedrals, especially Scandinavia and great wall,, were all made of brick, it depends on how it was designed, mike
Enjoy your videos and find them very informative. Wondering if you might offer some advice. The front of my home was done years ago with natural field stone, It looked beautiful for many years but now some of the stones are getting large black spots. Others seem to have rust emerging from the stone and also others are showing the salts that can emerge. I dont believe the stone was ever sealed. What can be done to clean this up and restore it? Thanks
stone by nature bleads out what every is inside it, I usually get a scrub brush and maybe even a wire brush with the water hose and go over it, some guys use acid but I am not a big fan of that, some power-wash but it seems to cause some damage, I would do a little "test" behind the bushes or where no one sees it and see what works, I hope it helps thanks mike
Why did you use the red bag fast setting concrete for one part then switch to sand and type s mortar for the patch? I'm guessing the latter mix was used for the joints too?
Didn't see any inspector NOSING AROUND with a clipboard...where did you bury him?? ha ha....great video....you spend more time working, I spend more time THINKING...why...i never EVER get ANYTHING done....love your style. Blessings.
Mate, this is a great video but crikey . . . "lentils" are little beans you put in soup. I doubt very much you used soup beans to hold up your frame. The steel beam you add for support is called a "Iintel". Great job though (even with soup beans).
Mike, I just found your videos. Very entertaining and very good explanations. I have an issue where we had a large window installed today and a row of soldier bricks fell off during the process. This row was above the door and below the large window. The mortar had dried out and the bricks were never tied into the house. Searching for ties I found your videos but nothing on how to tie a single row of soldier bricks into the structure. Do you have any thoughts on this. I watched your excellent video on ties but you didn't address my situation.
on a soldier course we would just put the ties in sideways every 4 or 5 courses going horizontal, and screw them in as you go. every situation is different but I am sure you get the idea, I will remember that when I am doing another video, thanks mike
awesome video Mike!! How do I know if the wall can handle an opening? I know that certain walls are obviously weak when I look at them...Thanks again for sharing your knowledge about masonry....
that is a good question. I just knew this one was good, but if it was old, cracked and cement was no good I would have sneaked it in like "How I install and make lentils" MIke Haduck. Thanks mike
Hi Mike !!! Cant get enough of your videos when my wife watches her sappy movies I but the headphones on and watch your videos. The problem I had was my foundation blocks are crumbling on the face of the block, but the blocks are the kind that looks like rock so they are not flat.When you said it was like bodywork , Got some rubber gloves and the materials and went to work and it looks a lot better . I also live in Pa. the things i keep in mind is your sayings ; Not in Pennsylvania, Get out the loose stuff like a dentist and If you want it to stick you have to wet it first. Can't thank you enough
Mike, I have a trade related question I think you may be able to help me with (if you see this soon enough). I'm used to doing new residential, not repairs: I have to replace blueskin from a brick wall that was finished 5 years ago or so by some other crew (it's leaking water into the basement). I already did one side of the wall because I was just working under a door so I didn't have to worry about the wall falling down. The rest of the job requires me to take three courses of bricks along the entire wall and around a fireplace. How many bricks long would you remove (like remove 6, leave 1 kind of thing) without worrying about the wall collapsing? I hope you can understand what I'm asking. One brick layer I know said it isn't such a big deal and the wall should be pretty secure. I don't want it to collapse though.
If I read you through it is like taking brick from the bottom of a building and replacing them, I think it is a lot of common sense, I have had to do something similar when jacking up buildings, hard question to answer. something where you have to be careful, I could not say unless I was actually there to see it. I wish you well, , thanks mike
Mike Haduck Masonry Yeah, my father has been doing this work for a while so I asked him for his suggestion too. It's pretty risky to just start guessing so I'm just working with one patch of brick at a time. Thanks for your reply.
@@rubenmborgesmusic This is a very old post and I’m not a Mason nor do I do that kind of work, but for extra safety factor, could a person not drill holes in a temporary “ledger board”, then use that as a template to drill through the brick mortar, Tapcon the “ledger”, then use some 4x4 blocking, 2x4 scraps, and hand-pressure inserted shims to take out the gaps? Still only take out small sections but use the ledger as a fail safe of sorts.
Hi Wiley, I guess it would depend on what your doing, sometimes the water makes a mess then the bricks that were cut absorbed the water which can change cement color or makes it harder to lay , lots of different reasons, thanks Mike
Thanks Mike. I’m cutting out two windows. I’m thinking the customer will complain about the dust outside but this is a great reason i can explain to him. I’m paying a bricklayer to lay it. Thanks buddy
Mike Haduck tks, I need to di the same job with exactly the same type of blocks on a two storey house, I would just cut out exact space for 3 inch lintel,and pack it with slate dry mix , would do you think for a 2 storey, u seem very experienced,??
Excellent video. I will be cutting a 24"×24" opening through an 8" wide block wall, its a non load bearing wall for an animal exhibit and I like the method of building one as one of your previous videos demonstrated. In this video you installed 2 lintels (is that common?) What are the width sizes? As for the height do you recommend 6" tall to make it easy to install and then fill in above lintel with a 2 " block and mortar in place? Thank you. Armando
Hi Armand, I would call up the block company and find out the size of lentils they carry, and maybe drive down and check them out, ask a couple of the locals what they would do, it is impossible for me to comment unless I was there to see it. I hope it helps, thanks, mike
Mike thank you for your information. We built our own lintel using portland cement, sand, rock, steel fiber and 2 #5 bent (up) rebar too and bottom. We cut the wall with an AP saw and chain saw, then demolition with machines. It was a fun project. Thank you for your inspiration. _lh3.googleusercontent.com/tkgslFQ2x-hPB6haL8FlP3Qs24nvBdb_IiMZ8VLcIHYhxHWE-ODFd0r8Hztg6vbQnDTmYnwlWg_
Finished Guillotine door for Oselot Cat. L.A.Zoo _lh3.googleusercontent.com/aZiEgizU8ST7ASdOCbHTiJtkETOfNMRLOe9NBE1gwWvVyoZ7Oq4bBGvQeHdhekAG19z33_DPPQ_
Hey Mike , Your videos are the only ones I look for when I need to learn something masonry related . Really have enjoyed all of your videos !!!
Thanks Westside, Mike
I am really enjoying learning from you. This will be helpful as I dig out my crawl space to convert it into a cellar.
Thanks bike, Mike
Learning a great deal about stone work from you, Mike. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Andrey, I appreciate it Mike
Thank you! need a 36x36 opening in a load bearing block wall. This video gives me the confidence to get it done
thanks Theo, I hope it helps, mike
Excellent video. I will be cutting a 24"×24" opening through an 8" wide block wall, its a non load bearing wall for an animal exhibit and I like the method of building one as one of your previous videos demonstrated. In this video you installed 2 lintels (is that common?) What are the width sizes? As for the height do you recommend 6" tall to make it easy to install and then fill in above lintel with a 2 " block and mortar in place? Thank you. Armando
Thank you for your video, I learned so much.
Thanks Lorenzo,, Mike
Mike: The finished job radiates "Pure Class," and the Passage seems to add a calmimg aura of stability to the structure....very well done...high level result!
Thanks Trapped, it worked, I appreciate it, mike
Brilliant video. I’ve got to put an interior doorway into an unsupporting wall. I reckon a lintel is the way to go, if if it is only holding up a couple of rows of bricks.
Hi Len, I can not say unless I seen it but I would think that is is just basic, I appreciate it. thanks mike
Mike, I've been spending time in Baltimore taking care of my dad, and they have amazing brickwork.
Can you do a video explaining how they made the brick window & door arches (instead of standard stone lintel or steel)? Many of the older buildings have brick arches and brick sills, and they seem solid.
Much thanks!
Hi PWN, I will keep it to mind. Thanks Mike
Thanks man ! this is really gonna help...my grandma wants me to make an opening in the garage to the backyard
Thanks summer, I hope it works out, Mike
Very nice!
Thanks ,Mike
Nice work Mike. I have an old building with ~6 inch concrete/plaster walls and I need to enlarge 2 doorway sfor ADA accessibility from around 32 inches to 36 inches (to replace the 30 wide inch door with a 34 inch wide door). The wall isn't load bearing, so just cut it open with a saw with a diamond blade and then install the new door and frame?
Hi Bob, I can't say over the internet, I would have to be there to see it, I would ask some of the local guys, Mike
like very simple explanation i wonder if you have video about making a square top entry door from a arch door way .thank you from Monteal
Hi Gilbert ,I don't, but I have a video called "stone work of the virgin islands", mike haduck where there was an example of that, thanks mike
i saw that smile while u were smashen out them bricks! my favorite part
that was pain, lol thanks mike
Mike Haduck oh come on dont u feel even a little like the kool aid man?
Thanks for a good how to
Thanks Ron, Mike
Nice work
Thanks Evan, Mike
"There is no right or wrong way to do it, just do it!" Oh and "Nothing sticks to dust." When i get done with concrete work and the person tries to thank me(the money is thanks enough), I tell them to thank Mike.
yep, everybody got a different way for sure, and your right as long as it works its good, (thats what the old timers told me,) LOL thanks mike
I am looking to install and exterior door into a cinder block wall. There will be another 6 to feet above where the cinder blocks would be cut out. There is a roof and is load bearing. What should I do to create temporary structural support until lintel installed?
Recently bought a 1900s school house to fix up as a home, all the walls are cement block and I want to open up a few doorways with arches.... I cannot find any videos showing how to make an arched lentil for a block wall... any advice?? I’ve seen your other video where you made a lentil with some blocks and such... would it be basically along those lines?? Or would you recommend something else? The ceilings are about 2 floors high so there’s a lot of wall on top.. which is my biggest worry
HiTara, that’s a hard one to answer, I never had a problem cutting it out and arching it, basicly the same ,but I would get some opinions from the locals before you make any decision, thanks mike
I'm so new to this but I guess red or brown bricks never serve as any type of load bearing walls. correct?
Hi Sammy, everything depends, lots of castles, churches, cathedrals, especially Scandinavia and great wall,, were all made of brick, it depends on how it was designed, mike
Enjoy your videos and find them very informative. Wondering if you might offer some advice. The front of my home was done years ago with natural field stone, It looked beautiful for many years but now some of the stones are getting large black spots. Others seem to have rust emerging from the stone and also others are showing the salts that can emerge. I dont believe the stone was ever sealed. What can be done to clean this up and restore it? Thanks
stone by nature bleads out what every is inside it, I usually get a scrub brush and maybe even a wire brush with the water hose and go over it, some guys use acid but I am not a big fan of that, some power-wash but it seems to cause some damage, I would do a little "test" behind the bushes or where no one sees it and see what works, I hope it helps thanks mike
Appreciated....Thanks Mike.
Why did you use the red bag fast setting concrete for one part then switch to sand and type s mortar for the patch? I'm guessing the latter mix was used for the joints too?
Hi A. k. The red bags sets fast but has gravel in it, the other is used for finishing, thanks, mike
All Your videos are excellent and Informative! Please keep Making them.
thanks kevin, that keeps me trucking on, I appreciate it. mike
Didn't see any inspector NOSING AROUND with a clipboard...where did you bury him?? ha ha....great video....you spend more time working, I spend more time THINKING...why...i never EVER get ANYTHING done....love your style. Blessings.
Thanks Mark, Blessings also, mike
unestly great videos. luv them all
thanks, I appreciate it. mike
unestly ? honestly ? earnestly ?
When cutting a big opening like that, how does the brick/block not settle or fall down?
Hi Steven, after doing a lot of them you just know, most of the masonry is self supporting in a arch form, every situation is different, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck couldn't you put the lintel in before knocking the wall out?
@whitestroke1 hi Whitestroke,, I don't see a reason to do that, thanks Mike
Nice one uncle Michael
thanks will.
Nothing like Swinging the Sledgehammer! Masons Rock! Great Job Mike!
I feel it, thanks, Jamie,,,,,,, Mike
What kind of saw did you use?
Hu Sarah, diamond, you can rent them at rental centers, thanks Mike
Good explication, clear images, Well done!
thanks, I appreciate it. mike
Mate, this is a great video but crikey . . . "lentils" are little beans you put in soup. I doubt very much you used soup beans to hold up your frame.
The steel beam you add for support is called a "Iintel". Great job though (even with soup beans).
was never very good at skool or spelled,,,,, my three hardest years was 2nd grade, LOL, thanks mike
Looks nice and neat.
thanks bg, I appreciate it. mike
will certainly watch your video how to break out of jail hahaha, well you never know what the day has in store, thanks for posting.
yep the video is doing well, LOL thanks mike
Mike, I just found your videos. Very entertaining and very good explanations. I have an issue where we had a large window installed today and a row of soldier bricks fell off during the process. This row was above the door and below the large window. The mortar had dried out and the bricks were never tied into the house. Searching for ties I found your videos but nothing on how to tie a single row of soldier bricks into the structure. Do you have any thoughts on this. I watched your excellent video on ties but you didn't address my situation.
on a soldier course we would just put the ties in sideways every 4 or 5 courses going horizontal, and screw them in as you go. every situation is different but I am sure you get the idea, I will remember that when I am doing another video, thanks mike
awesome video Mike!! How do I know if the wall can handle an opening? I know that certain walls are obviously weak when I look at them...Thanks again for sharing your knowledge about masonry....
that is a good question. I just knew this one was good, but if it was old, cracked and cement was no good I would have sneaked it in like "How I install and make lentils" MIke Haduck. Thanks mike
Hi Mike !!! Cant get enough of your videos when my wife watches her sappy movies I but the headphones on and watch your videos. The problem I had was my foundation blocks are crumbling on the face of the block, but the blocks are the kind that looks like rock so they are not flat.When you said it was like bodywork , Got some rubber gloves and the materials and went to work and it looks a lot better . I also live in Pa. the things i keep in mind is your sayings ; Not in Pennsylvania, Get out the loose stuff like a dentist and If you want it to stick you have to wet it first. Can't thank you enough
Nice work.
Excellent!
thanks jeff I appreciate it. mike
Mike, I have a trade related question I think you may be able to help me with (if you see this soon enough). I'm used to doing new residential, not repairs:
I have to replace blueskin from a brick wall that was finished 5 years ago or so by some other crew (it's leaking water into the basement). I already did one side of the wall because I was just working under a door so I didn't have to worry about the wall falling down. The rest of the job requires me to take three courses of bricks along the entire wall and around a fireplace. How many bricks long would you remove (like remove 6, leave 1 kind of thing) without worrying about the wall collapsing? I hope you can understand what I'm asking. One brick layer I know said it isn't such a big deal and the wall should be pretty secure. I don't want it to collapse though.
If I read you through it is like taking brick from the bottom of a building and replacing them, I think it is a lot of common sense, I have had to do something similar when jacking up buildings, hard question to answer. something where you have to be careful, I could not say unless I was actually there to see it. I wish you well, , thanks mike
Mike Haduck Masonry Yeah, my father has been doing this work for a while so I asked him for his suggestion too. It's pretty risky to just start guessing so I'm just working with one patch of brick at a time. Thanks for your reply.
@@rubenmborgesmusic
This is a very old post and I’m not a Mason nor do I do that kind of work, but for extra safety factor, could a person not drill holes in a temporary “ledger board”, then use that as a template to drill through the brick mortar, Tapcon the “ledger”, then use some 4x4 blocking, 2x4 scraps, and hand-pressure inserted shims to take out the gaps? Still only take out small sections but use the ledger as a fail safe of sorts.
I want to cut an opening in a brick wall, for a doggie door. Does a small opening like
that need a lintel? Thanks in advance!
Hi LSU, sometimes I will use a steel angle iron or depending on size a small metal lentil, everything depends, thanks, mike
I always see masonry guys cutting brick dry. Is there a reason why you don’t use water?
Hi Wiley, I guess it would depend on what your doing, sometimes the water makes a mess then the bricks that were cut absorbed the water which can change cement color or makes it harder to lay , lots of different reasons, thanks Mike
Thanks Mike. I’m cutting out two windows. I’m thinking the customer will complain about the dust outside but this is a great reason i can explain to him. I’m paying a bricklayer to lay it. Thanks buddy
in the uk you have to have 6 inch bearing on each side of the lintel or 150 m.m. not 4 inches as you have there.
Hi peter, I remember what we had but I remember cutting it, thanks mike
Cool video thanks for sharing :)
thanks, mike
4:03 at that point.... just wear a vinyl glove and pack it in by hand....
Thanks Ayesuh,, Mike
i want the same like this.... how much to pay for this.
I would ask prices from your local contractors, thanks mike
Is this Harrison Ford’s second job?:))
hi oglaz, things are getting tough in hollywood, lol, thanks mike
you skipped how you cut out for the lintel area. Lots of missing attention to detail missing from the video.
Same as cutting the sides or just chip away at the joints. Thanks Mike
can you do a video, how to break into a women's prison
I keep those secrets for myself, lol ,, thanks mike
Let your joints set up a little an u won't need the sponge
anything that works, thanks mike
no acrow props overnight
all I guess I could say is not with my experience (for me) on this type of job, thanks mike
Mike Haduck tks, I need to di the same job with exactly the same type of blocks on a two storey house, I would just cut out exact space for 3 inch lintel,and pack it with slate dry mix , would do you think for a 2 storey, u seem very experienced,??
Hi COR, I cannot comment on that unless I was there to see it. I would ask the locals, I appreciate it. thanks mike
siege warfare for beginners.
Thanks David, mike
Step 1: Draw a door.
Thanks James, Mike
Excellent video. I will be cutting a 24"×24" opening through an 8" wide block wall, its a non load bearing wall for an animal exhibit and I like the method of building one as one of your previous videos demonstrated. In this video you installed 2 lintels (is that common?) What are the width sizes? As for the height do you recommend 6" tall to make it easy to install and then fill in above lintel with a 2 " block and mortar in place? Thank you. Armando
Hi Armand, I would call up the block company and find out the size of lentils they carry, and maybe drive down and check them out, ask a couple of the locals what they would do, it is impossible for me to comment unless I was there to see it. I hope it helps, thanks, mike
Mike thank you for your information. We built our own lintel using portland cement, sand, rock, steel fiber and 2 #5 bent (up) rebar too and bottom. We cut the wall with an AP saw and chain saw, then demolition with machines. It was a fun project. Thank you for your inspiration.
_lh3.googleusercontent.com/tkgslFQ2x-hPB6haL8FlP3Qs24nvBdb_IiMZ8VLcIHYhxHWE-ODFd0r8Hztg6vbQnDTmYnwlWg_
_lh3.googleusercontent.com/60uzkGDuMBWqNT1iWPggDHO7E167U3BmM0sR9swBpOQOaBnah20Vy3Hq3X9KS1oy3HunHlkmfw_
Finished Guillotine door for Oselot Cat. L.A.Zoo
_lh3.googleusercontent.com/aZiEgizU8ST7ASdOCbHTiJtkETOfNMRLOe9NBE1gwWvVyoZ7Oq4bBGvQeHdhekAG19z33_DPPQ_
Hi Armand, I can not put links on my comment site, but I appreciate it. thanks mike