Thanks for sharing. The knives turned out nice. I was not aware the Mircata shrinks. On the other hand I don’t use it a lot that’s why I might not have noticed.
Love the show...we are all learning out here, thank you. Perhaps you could show a little text on the screen letting us know the grit of the belt as you go through your steps. Thanks again...south Florida
WOW BROTHER!!! This is probably one of the most informative Bladesmithing videos I've ever seen! I literally am going to be watching it multiple times, to absorb all of the awesome tips, that you have so graciously shared! I'm definitely a better smith because of you! Thank you and God bless you, my friend! 💙🙏🏻🔥👍🏻
Hey Tony…new to your channel, and subscribed. I really appreciate your detailed description of your processes and the reasons. I’m a brand new aspiring bladesmith, so I’m soaking up as much as I can! Gorgeous knives…especially the drop point hunters!
@TonySeverioKnives I have had the same issue with stag breaking out as you showed. I minimized that with a simple clamping change. I clamped a piece of 1/2 x 2 inch bar stock in a vise parallel to the table. I then clamped the blade to the underside of the bar. There's much more stability than resting the irregular surface and minimized the wobble when the drill breaks through. It worked 50% better for me. Might be something to try. It socks to bugger up some prime stag.. cheers friend !
Man you are so right, I think you are addressing an issue most smiths don't talk too much about, but I have learned the hard way about overworking my steel. I have had it just crumble when I quenched it where I had overworked it.
Yeah these blades that I cracked were done while straightening after tempering with a carbide hammer. Focusing in one place too much and too close to the spine. I have to pay more attention. 🙂
Great video you have a lot of useful information. I have trouble sometimes from getting my bolsters too hot and they loosen up while shaping or drilling. what kind of super glue do you use. I have been a maker for 7 years now since I retired. I really enjoy your videos I have learned a lot from them. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you sir. I just use cheap ole super glue. I use the gel and the thin stuff.. I also use a good bit on them. But I cool them constantly when grinding and I use a fresh heavy grit belt to remove the bulk of it.
I broke two knives using a carbide hammer...now I just oil quench for about 8-10 seconds and plate squeeze until cool. I hate warps so much, but I have had a really good run with no warps.
I’ve broke a few. But it’s only with AEB-L that I ever have warping issues. I still plate quench but AEB-L is a beast for warping. I love the way it performs though. 🙂
@@TonySeverioKnives Well..I'm pretty sure i broke them because I use 26c3 for most kitchen knives and it's super brittle even if I adjust the tempering cycle but I love it anyway! It takes such a crazy edge...I'm in New Orleans btw....
I’ve found that the carbide hammer strikes have to be evenly spread out and away from the spine. Every one of the failures I’ve had were due to not doing that. But it’s risky regardless. I live in Amite. 🙂
Hi Tony, once again, you put together a really nice tutorial and video. Thanks a lot for this great info and congrats on those superb knives! While you were talking about the hydraulic press you use for peening the bolsters' pins, I was wondering if an arbor press could be used? Have a nice day!
Thank you my friend, I appreciate it. I guess if it’s strong enough it could. I have one and I know it’s not. As long as it can crush that pin into the hole to make it fill the taper, it would work. Thanks!
@@TonySeverioKnives Thanks a lot for replying and helping. I gather as much information as I can about knifemaking, this way if one day I can afford a house, the garage will become a knifemaking workshop and I'll make some sharp blades too! So I greatly appreciate when you share some knowledge. Thanks a lot again!
Thanks for watching everyone! Let me know if you have any questions or you just want to say hello! I appreciate it. 🙂
Great info for new knife maker, special attention to quality. Thank you
Thank you, I appreciate it. 🙂
They look great Tony!
Thank you man!
Man those turned out awesome!!!!! Especially those drop points. Great work as always my friend 👍
Thanks brother, I appreciate it! 🙂
Nice knives and video, chalk full of good tips. Thanks!
Thank you I appreciate it. 🙂
Thank you for sharing your processes!! Great video as always!
You’re welcome my friend, thanks for watching! 🙂
Oooh I love that pin press. Might just have to make one of those myself. Lots of great tips in here, Tony!
Thanks Joel!
Excellent work as always 👍👍
Thank you!
That’s a great tip with the tapered reamer. 👍. I’ve only peened on bolsters once before but if I do it again, I’ll know a good way.
Thanks brother. Yeah they won’t ever budge. Great mechanical fit.
Great work Tony! Thank you for sharing your techniques with all your fellow makers. going to have to make a pin press for myself now.
You’re welcome my friend and thanks for watching. 🙂
Great content!
Thank you my friend. 🙂
Thanks for sharing.
The knives turned out nice.
I was not aware the Mircata shrinks. On the other hand I don’t use it a lot that’s why I might not have noticed.
Thanks! Yes after drilling a hole the exact size of a pin, you’ll notice that it’s too tight. 🙂
I like that pin setter. Never seen one of those before. Always just used a ball peen to set them.
Yeah they are old tools but don’t see them anymore. They work great.
The way you do those bolsters reminds me of my Nolen knives. I think I have 5 Nolens. Older ones.
Sweet. Purty knives. 🙂
Looking good
Thank you!
Love the show...we are all learning out here, thank you. Perhaps you could show a little text on the screen letting us know the grit of the belt as you go through your steps. Thanks again...south Florida
Thank you! The grit progression starts with 50 then 120, 220, 400 and then 600. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching! 🙂
WOW BROTHER!!! This is probably one of the most informative Bladesmithing videos I've ever seen! I literally am going to be watching it multiple times, to absorb all of the awesome tips, that you have so graciously shared! I'm definitely a better smith because of you! Thank you and God bless you, my friend! 💙🙏🏻🔥👍🏻
Thank you my friend, that means a lot and makes it all worth the effort of putting these things together. Thanks man!
Ron Gaston was a neighbor of mine growing up in Woodruff SC
He was an awesome craftsman and made clean beautiful knives.
Excellent! Those drop points are really nice!👌🏻
Thanks brother!
Hey Tony…new to your channel, and subscribed. I really appreciate your detailed description of your processes and the reasons. I’m a brand new aspiring bladesmith, so I’m soaking up as much as I can! Gorgeous knives…especially the drop point hunters!
Welcome my friend. Glad these vids help. Makes it worth the effort. Thanks for joining! 🙂
Thank you, I think I just need to slow down and watch my heat more. lol
You’re welcome. Yes that’s the main thing. I grind bare handed too so I can feel it warming up. Thanks!
Been looking for one of those pin presses for a few years now,,,,, May have to break down and make one.
Yeah they are hard to find now. But easy to build.
Very informative video ! So..what do you do with the the 2 that had cracks?
As I mentioned in the video, I will keep them for myself. They will never leave my shop. I will use them until they fail or not. 🙂
@TonySeverioKnives I have had the same issue with stag breaking out as you showed. I minimized that with a simple clamping change. I clamped a piece of 1/2 x 2 inch bar stock in a vise parallel to the table. I then clamped the blade to the underside of the bar. There's much more stability than resting the irregular surface and minimized the wobble when the drill breaks through. It worked 50% better for me. Might be something to try. It socks to bugger up some prime stag.. cheers friend !
Awesome man, I’ll have to give it a shot next time. I find I do better with a very sharp bit and lightly Pecking through.
Man you are so right, I think you are addressing an issue most smiths don't talk too much about, but I have learned the hard way about overworking my steel. I have had it just crumble when I quenched it where I had overworked it.
Yeah these blades that I cracked were done while straightening after tempering with a carbide hammer. Focusing in one place too much and too close to the spine. I have to pay more attention. 🙂
Your videos are great and so are your knives. Keep them coming.
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Great video you have a lot of useful information. I have trouble sometimes from getting my bolsters too hot and they loosen up while shaping or drilling. what kind of super glue do you use. I have been a maker for 7 years now since I retired. I really enjoy your videos I have learned a lot from them. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you sir. I just use cheap ole super glue. I use the gel and the thin stuff.. I also use a good bit on them. But I cool them constantly when grinding and I use a fresh heavy grit belt to remove the bulk of it.
I broke two knives using a carbide hammer...now I just oil quench for about 8-10 seconds and plate squeeze until cool. I hate warps so much, but I have had a really good run with no warps.
I’ve broke a few. But it’s only with AEB-L that I ever have warping issues. I still plate quench but AEB-L is a beast for warping. I love the way it performs though. 🙂
@@TonySeverioKnives Well..I'm pretty sure i broke them because I use 26c3 for most kitchen knives and it's super brittle even if I adjust the tempering cycle but I love it anyway! It takes such a crazy edge...I'm in New Orleans btw....
I’ve found that the carbide hammer strikes have to be evenly spread out and away from the spine. Every one of the failures I’ve had were due to not doing that. But it’s risky regardless. I live in Amite. 🙂
Hi Tony,
once again, you put together a really nice tutorial and video. Thanks a lot for this great info and congrats on those superb knives!
While you were talking about the hydraulic press you use for peening the bolsters' pins, I was wondering if an arbor press could be used?
Have a nice day!
Thank you my friend, I appreciate it. I guess if it’s strong enough it could. I have one and I know it’s not. As long as it can crush that pin into the hole to make it fill the taper, it would work. Thanks!
@@TonySeverioKnives
Thanks a lot for replying and helping.
I gather as much information as I can about knifemaking, this way if one day I can afford a house, the garage will become a knifemaking workshop and I'll make some sharp blades too!
So I greatly appreciate when you share some knowledge.
Thanks a lot again!
You’re welcome my friend, I appreciate you watching. 🙂
👏👏👏👏🤜🤛 🔥
Thank you!!
What steel on the Swamp Spikes?
AEB-L Stainless
How do you finish the pins on the handles. Peen,epoxy?
On these knives they are epoxied in then finished flush. But it depends on the style knife whether I peen and dome them or finish flush like these.
Just a question, do ever do tapered tangs?
Yep