So I'm sitting here watching this video with a cup of coffee in my hand. Started to yell at you for forgetting that last bolt in the crank case cover as you were prying on it. Chuckled when you noticed it. Then I really had to laugh when you were holding the cover and pounding on the crank to get it out. I said to myself "what could possibly go wrong?" But, you didn't do too bad. If it were me, it would have fallen and smashed into my foot. All in all, a very informative and entertaining video. Thanks!
To James Condon. Just wanted to say thank you for all of your great generator videos. Last night here in 60107 Illinois, we got hit with a bad ice storm. Trees down, my power has been out for 12.5 hrs now. Your generator maintenance tutorials really paid off today. *Westinghouse I-Gen 4300, with 1630 hrs and running like new. Thank You John A
I don't think I've seen a metal govenor gear in an engine, maybe ever. A quick google search shows a page full of plastic gears, and one metal gear for the Briggs Vtwin. Plastic parts aren't always bad, as long as they're made properly and used within their operating limits (temperature being the main one)
@@AlexanderBurgers I've seen many. Mostly older generators. Plastic and heat don't go together as you also know. They just wanted to save about 15 to 25 cents on a stamped steel part.
Nice teardown. I agree with you about the governor. I have wondered if you could use some of that aluminum welding rod to fix a non structural hole like the one in that block. Might be an interesting experiment.
I have always been curios on how these small engines worked and went together. I am so glad I found your channel and that you did this video. Was informative and eye opening for someone who doesn't work on them as I don't. Thank you so much!
Thanks Jim for yet another fab video......as you say, such a shame they went with some plastic parts inside, talk about a halfpenny's worth of tar that sank the ship. That top end is just beautiful......penny pinching point of failure.....
We use to lose power quite frequently enough; I justified getting a whole house generator to replace my portable one. Since doing so, we haven't had a single power outage for the last 4 years. I'm glad to have it, just haven't needed it.
That is a very well made engine, even better built than the Honda overhead cam engines, I agree with you on the engine revving wide open being the culprit why it blew.
Nice video as always James. I just completed a rebuild on an EX40 where the exhaust valve head broke off the stem, bounced around the chamber (destroyed head) and jammed into the piston. Took over a year to find a good, used head & new piston
@@jcondon1 it sure did. Luckily the con rod and crank were perfect. This engine is on a Ridgid 8k generator which had to come apart. I have to thank you for your expertise and your videos, as this was the first genny I ever had to take completely apart, and I was able to get it done thanks to you. All I have to do is finish the wiring and test it out
interesting to see why it let loose plastic gear ,go figure ,without positive oil pressure those engines do not like high revving found that out on a 5 HP go cart ,excellent content Jim thanks
Sure doesn't look like an OHC engine from the outside. And a chain driven cam at that, that is one high quality engine. Nice and I think your diagnosis is spot on. Didn't see an oil pump or oil filter though.
Not on these small engine’s, no filter and they relying on a dipper that splashes the oil to the parts that need lubrication. Regular oil change and keeping the level not to low, keeps them alive.
First time I've watched a small Subaru engine tear down. Interesting, I noticed the roller bearings, and a metal timing chain I'd think would be much better than a belt for overhead cams on small engines as it wouldn't deteriorate while sitting for years. .
I wonder if this one was run for a long period on a slope, causing the oil to pool one side of the crank case, and starving the bottom end of the engine of oil causing the conecting rod / governor failure?
Very possible. Looking back in the video, the oil that came out looked a lot newer then I remembered. Usually though the engine smells burnt when they run out of oil. Did not smell any of that.
@@jcondon1 thanks for all the content you provide, the pace and detail you go into is perfect, so much so I have managed to sort a few engine issues with some of my own garden equipment through following you, issues I would other wise have had to get someone else to sort for me and now seem so straight forward. 👍
@@jcondon1 Most all my small engines have low oil protection. They won't run if they are at an angle. My guess is the cheap plastic parts failed then the self destruction followed.
I just rebuilt one of these that the rings were seized in the piston grooves and was producing a ton of blow by. You are right about it being an expensive engine to get parts for. The rings alone were a little over $50, but after the new rings were installed it ran excellent. You could rebuild that and have the block welded for probably $50, but the connecting rod is over a $100. All said a done, you’d be looking at about $200 to rebuild it. IMO, not worth it. But it’s a great parts engine!!
I needed the parts so will not rebuild this one. Parts for the Subaru are expensive. They are owned by Yamaha now so I am sure the parts are only going to get more expensive.
These smaller engines use crappy recycled cast aluminum. There not easy to weld on and if it don’t do it perfect and get a full penetration weld it will crack again from the heat and vibration. Once a block is cracked it’s done for.
@@jcondon1- anyone care to comment on the best source for parts- Yamaha , Jacks etc? Do you think parts regardless of the price are likely to be available?
Regarding the hole in the engine block, I think a little hammering and small AL patch welded to cover the remaining hole will fix the problem much better. It will work perfectly.
I have a EX27 that couldn't run a PowerArc 5500 welder/gen. The shop said the governor 'died'. In the process of taking the rotor off the shaft, the 10mm x 1.5 LH threads let go before the rotor popped off... Thanks for your videos, very interesting.
I was thinking about this and dawns on me that if Subaru had made the valve springs a little weaker it would never have blow up. I had a Honda CB-125S years ago and you could pin the throttle with no load on the engine and it would just rev so high and not go any further.
James, you have terrified me. I have that same Subaru engine in my Husky generator. It is about 8 or 9 years old, not used much. I had to use it for about 3 hours yesterday as we lost power. I live in Charlton MA and love your UA-cam channel. Thanks, Dick
To your complement of tools, a nice brass or copper mallet would be good for doing some hammering like on the ends of the crankshafts when you use that method to remove flywheels. Just a tip from a retired lawn and garden mechanic for Sears back in the day..😑
Hello James! New subscriber here. Been enjoying your content. I do like your presentation style. Quiet, not too fast, not too slow. Love small engine stuff. Wanted to say Congrats on 100k subs!
I'd suggest using some aluminum brazing rod to weld up the "inspection window", clean up the journals replace the busted parts and put it back together.
I think we can definitively deduce that the governor went bad, resulting in an over racing engine and subsequent connecting rod failure, not the other way around. The reason why I say this is the amount of aluminum transfer to the crank journal. If the running engine had proper oil, and the connecting rod broke first, you would not see that transfer. But if the governor went, resulting in engine racing, and therefore an over heating condition on the journal, the aluminum transfer would occur.
Thank you for this one. Its a beautifully made engine. I wonder why the flywheel fan is so very rusty. It occurs to me that it does not matter much if flywheel fans are rusty because it would hardly impact the performance of the machine unless it rusted up so much that it stops spinning or the vanes fall off and reduce its effectiveness. This flywheel fan would make a very good experimental subject for an attempt to remove rust using electrolysis. It is a robust piece and quite thick. It would be hard to do any damage. The materials required are very cheap. You cannot lose much money should it be ineffective. You stand to save a lot of money on fuel tanks were it to be effective. I am a skinflint in my very nature.
I have definitely seen small engines destroyed due to governor failure, but in this case, I think that something caused the big end to seize, and that is what caused the rod to break. I have not seen the internals of a Subaru small engine. It does look well made.
Good Video I have a Subaru ex21 fuel injected - ridgid 3300 psi pressure washer with Cat pump. Amazing quality compared to Honda gcv and gsv, metal gears and chain with ball bearings on crank shaft
Interesting video. It may be a well built engine, but sad that it suffered from the old phrase "a chain is no stronger than its weakest link". Sad impact of manufacturing cost saving.
Looks like planned obsolescense if ive ever seen it! I had originally thought it was a subaru branded chonda, but then i saw the layout of the intake, exhaust and spark plug. The chonda engines blow up pretty often. Had a governor explode in one and a rod go in another. Was able to make 1 runner out of the two with a little jb weld on the window and a small wrench as a slinger. Was waiting for the earth shattering kaboom, but several hours later the frankenchonda is still a runner. After running and flushing oil several times there isnt even any glitter in the oil. The only way i would even consider selling it is for the value of the sum of its parts and a very very big bold statement about it. Tbh i never thought i would have as much fun slapping two cadavre engines together without a care in the world just to see what happens.
Catastrophic small engine failure, if not caused by oil starvation, is more often than not caused by a runaway governor. The bearing damage on this one suggests it was run for some time before the connecting rod took a hike. I’m surprised the previous owner didn’t notice the abnormal running condition before it blew.
Nice video. I have never had a Suburu engine, so never saw one taken apart. Well made. Shame about the plastic governor, but all the engines I’ve opened up have plastic there, to my recollection. Even the old Tecumsehs (but then again they had plastic emulsion tubes 25 years ago, too, which I despise.) So maybe there’s a reason for plastic over metal that I don’t understand.
Yeah they used to be Wisconsin Robin and it doesn't look like they changed the design from when I worked on a few in the late 80's. They were good as long as you didn't run em out of oil. The ones I worked on were industrial application and usually were run out of oil. Some knocked but ran. Some smokes bad but didn't knock.
I want to see you brase that hole shut and do the complete repair! pair it with all repaired items that were once thought to be a lost cause. Use parts like a formerly intermittent stator fixed by boiled in shellac, a once open roter, and any old tecumseh carb (there's the real challenge.)
When you said the governor looked like it failed, that was my guess as well, it failed the engine ran away, and bang, I would think it could have been pretty loud, both from over reving, and the big bang.
I say, just for fun, repair the hole with JB Weld or Steel Stick and rebuild the engine. Looks like you’ll only need a couple parts. The crank could easily be cleaned up with muriatic acid and polished with emery cloth.
I had one that over heated and took the temper out of the rings, it was smoking very bad. Replaced the rings and ran like a champ on propane. But after market carbs suck for this engine.
That's why your impact drill fell over at 3:36 ... it's battery died. And not a complete loss with some good parts on there to donate to other worthy engines. Especially those bolts that land on the floor and then seem to disappear into a parallel dimension.
Enjoyed the video, James. I recently had a EX30 in my shop, I thought the overhead cam was a good idea because the chain would keep a decent amount of oil traveling to the valve/cam area.
On mine the clip holding the governor pin broke or flew off and the governor pin/armature fell into the crankcase while it was running. Its a solid steel L shaped piece. This in turn broke the paddle that splashes the oil around in the crankcase. Everything else is good. Engine is ok but that stupid paddle is just broken. I have thought about fixing it but not brave enough to go any farther
@@silverstreak1001 is the oil slinger (paddle) on the connecting rod cap? If so then you should replace the connecting rod. The cap is not sold separately and normally they are matched. Not sure if it would be ok to just swap the cap. If you decide to just swap the cap then you have to open up the bottom end of the engine. If replacing the connecting rod then the head should also be remove so you can get the piston out.
See how he works with Ryobi tools that anybody can afford? That's very sporting. I do the same thing. I use nothing but Ryobi tools for the last 4 years and they are an incredible value.
Jim, a good welder could fix that block, and it would be as good as new for maybe $20. I've done that on a Honda engine block, but I would be sure to tell the customer in case they would be concerned.
Big disadvantage with overhead cam in a small engine: it requires a belt or chain, and even worse than a belt is the chain as it's hundreds of pieces on its own and if you ever had a bicycle, if there is a seized link, it makes the whole system inoperable. And to the dismay of those who thought these engines were better than Honda's GX line is helical gears don't stretch requiring replacment, but chains do, and that why you look at automobiles with timing chains, they have to be replaced too. Also, the cam may be steel, but that cam is overall a weaker piece than the helical gears in the GX for the cam and crank. This may be the reason Subaru's small general purpose engine division became defunct and ultimately bought by Yamaha Motor. Pushrods are incredibly durable and Honda's design is the de-facto setup. Newer Honda GC(V) engines (more specifically the GCV200 and 170) are now of the tried and true pushrod design, but I haven't seen these engines used outside Honda's lawn mower lineup.
Congrats on the 100K subs 🤩 You've earned and deserve that and more-well done! Big-end seizure but why? You diagnosed that right. I'm still not sold on anything useful being added from having an OHC in a low-revving utility engine, guess I'm old-fashioned...
You see electronic governors on pad mounted 10kW and higher home backup generators, like Kohler and Generac. The implementation is inexpensive and can be made fail-safe for small incremental parts count.
Good Autopsy 🙂 If nothing else you have spare parts. If that is the only Subaru engine that you have ever seen throw a rod in all the Generators you have fixed it speaks of build quality One failure in how many ?
It would seem that in a critical governor failure over rev situation bad enough to separate the rod you would have seen valve float bad enough to contact the piston and or at least enough rod stretch / big end wear that interference would have been found?
I have a Homelite LXRE 4500 with a Robin Subaru 8.5 electric start engine. Stopped producing power. Engine still runs good. I don't have a use for the engine so will probably wind up in scrap, sad.
Finding a Small Engine Repair/Hobby channel with no distracting background music playing is rare. Greal channel!
So I'm sitting here watching this video with a cup of coffee in my hand. Started to yell at you for forgetting that last bolt in the crank case cover as you were prying on it. Chuckled when you noticed it. Then I really had to laugh when you were holding the cover and pounding on the crank to get it out. I said to myself "what could possibly go wrong?" But, you didn't do too bad. If it were me, it would have fallen and smashed into my foot. All in all, a very informative and entertaining video. Thanks!
To James Condon. Just wanted to say thank you for all of your great generator videos. Last night here in 60107 Illinois, we got hit with a bad ice storm. Trees down, my power has been out for 12.5 hrs now. Your generator maintenance tutorials really paid off today.
*Westinghouse I-Gen 4300, with 1630 hrs and running like new.
Thank You
John A
Really enjoy this teardown. A good way to learn more about this cam shaft engine. Continue the great work you’re doing James.
Thanks 👍
Congratulations on 100K subscribers. I don't think anybody on youtube deserves it more than you for consistency and ethic. Thank you!
Thanks
Great Autopsy. Its a shame that Subaru stopped making small engines. They were really well made.
I'm pretty sure your assessment is on spot.
They ruined a beautiful engine by using a plastic governor instead of metal.
I don't think I've seen a metal govenor gear in an engine, maybe ever. A quick google search shows a page full of plastic gears, and one metal gear for the Briggs Vtwin. Plastic parts aren't always bad, as long as they're made properly and used within their operating limits (temperature being the main one)
@@AlexanderBurgers I've seen many. Mostly older generators.
Plastic and heat don't go together as you also know. They just wanted to save about 15 to 25 cents on a stamped steel part.
Thanks James. Your assumption for the failure sounds logical and probably was the cause. Looks to have been a very well built engine.
Congrats on 100K subscribers! Keep up the great work!
Thanks
Nice teardown. I agree with you about the governor. I have wondered if you could use some of that aluminum welding rod to fix a non structural hole like the one in that block. Might be an interesting experiment.
i don't think i have seen a subaru teardown video before. i enjoyed it. thanks.
hi, James. I don't usually look at autopsies. But in this case it was worth it.
Thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
I have always been curios on how these small engines worked and went together. I am so glad I found your channel and that you did this video. Was informative and eye opening for someone who doesn't work on them as I don't. Thank you so much!
Thanks Jim for yet another fab video......as you say, such a shame they went with some plastic parts inside, talk about a halfpenny's worth of tar that sank the ship. That top end is just beautiful......penny pinching point of failure.....
No, not penny pinching. The customer now has to buy a new one. Planned obsolescence.
Nice work Jim, it looks like a parts engine is worth more than a generator. even with failures, you find winners.
Thank You, appreciated the time in putting this out for us. Learned a lot from your video.
I love your videos and you inspired me to take a small engine course. I have two classes left of level 1. I will take level 2 next.
That is more then I have had. Never had any training.
We use to lose power quite frequently enough; I justified getting a whole house generator to replace my portable one. Since doing so, we haven't had a single power outage for the last 4 years. I'm glad to have it, just haven't needed it.
I've fixed many blown up Kawasaki twins that windowed the block, tig weld the case and replace what's needed
User installed inspection port. The block is likely trashed unless you can patch it with a weld, but likely best to junk it.
thanks for the video, James. Amazing how much engineering goes into one of those engines, very interesting indeed.
Ouch! Oh, Congrats on 100K Subs.
Thanks
Yei, 100.000 subscribers. 👍🏻💪🏻
That is a very well made engine, even better built than the Honda overhead cam engines, I agree with you on the engine revving wide open being the culprit why it blew.
Nice video as always James. I just completed a rebuild on an EX40 where the exhaust valve head broke off the stem, bounced around the chamber (destroyed head) and jammed into the piston. Took over a year to find a good, used head & new piston
Ouch, a dropped valve causes a lot of damage.
@@jcondon1 it sure did. Luckily the con rod and crank were perfect. This engine is on a Ridgid 8k generator which had to come apart. I have to thank you for your expertise and your videos, as this was the first genny I ever had to take completely apart, and I was able to get it done thanks to you. All I have to do is finish the wiring and test it out
interesting to see why it let loose plastic gear ,go figure ,without positive oil pressure those engines do not like high revving found that out on a 5 HP go cart ,excellent content Jim thanks
Sure doesn't look like an OHC engine from the outside. And a chain driven cam at that, that is one high quality engine. Nice and I think your diagnosis is spot on. Didn't see an oil pump or oil filter though.
Not on these small engine’s, no filter and they relying on a dipper that splashes the oil to the parts that need lubrication. Regular oil change and keeping the level not to low, keeps them alive.
Beautiful engine except for the governor. I have one that has never failed me. Thanks for the look inside.
Kind of like the state of Arizona. It's a beautiful state except it has a bad governor.
@@vigorousboredom7016 Throw California in the mix also.
@@vigorousboredom7016 Michigan as well!
First time I've watched a small Subaru engine tear down. Interesting, I noticed the roller bearings, and a metal timing chain I'd think would be much better than a belt for overhead cams on small engines as it wouldn't deteriorate while sitting for years. .
And yet the plastic. Odd.
Congratulations on breaking 100k subscribers James! Keep up the awesome work 👍🏻
Thanks
I wonder if this one was run for a long period on a slope, causing the oil to pool one side of the crank case, and starving the bottom end of the engine of oil causing the conecting rod / governor failure?
I'd agree, a possibility there.
Good point.
Very possible. Looking back in the video, the oil that came out looked a lot newer then I remembered. Usually though the engine smells burnt when they run out of oil. Did not smell any of that.
@@jcondon1 thanks for all the content you provide, the pace and detail you go into is perfect, so much so I have managed to sort a few engine issues with some of my own garden equipment through following you, issues I would other wise have had to get someone else to sort for me and now seem so straight forward. 👍
@@jcondon1 Most all my small engines have low oil protection. They won't run if they are at an angle. My guess is the cheap plastic parts failed then the self destruction followed.
Yes sir ! Your right James .. If the Gov let's go it's GAME OVER for small engines ..
I just rebuilt one of these that the rings were seized in the piston grooves and was producing a ton of blow by. You are right about it being an expensive engine to get parts for. The rings alone were a little over $50, but after the new rings were installed it ran excellent.
You could rebuild that and have the block welded for probably $50, but the connecting rod is over a $100. All said a done, you’d be looking at about $200 to rebuild it. IMO, not worth it. But it’s a great parts engine!!
I needed the parts so will not rebuild this one. Parts for the Subaru are expensive. They are owned by Yamaha now so I am sure the parts are only going to get more expensive.
@@jcondon1if you want I could repair that block and you would have a good block for parts
These smaller engines use crappy recycled cast aluminum. There not easy to weld on and if it don’t do it perfect and get a full penetration weld it will crack again from the heat and vibration. Once a block is cracked it’s done for.
@@jcondon1- anyone care to comment on the best source for parts- Yamaha , Jacks etc? Do you think parts regardless of the price are likely to be available?
Regarding the hole in the engine block, I think a little hammering and small AL patch welded to cover the remaining hole will fix the problem much better. It will work perfectly.
It could be done. Just need a new connecting rod and governor. Decided to use this one for parts though since I do not have any Subaru parts.
Always a thrill watching your videos on taking something apart 🙂
Nothing wrong with education I enjoyed watching
Thanks for the tear down! Could you hear us yelling at you? You forgot a bolt! NP, Happens to the best of us, carry on!
Mine snapped the exhaust valve and i cleaned it up and used an intake valve from a honda 4 wheeler its still going strong
You left that bolt in the side cover just to see if we were paying attention, didn't you?
I have a EX27 that couldn't run a PowerArc 5500 welder/gen. The shop said the governor 'died'. In the process of taking the rotor off the shaft, the 10mm x 1.5 LH threads let go before the rotor popped off... Thanks for your videos, very interesting.
Man, I’ve learned a lot watching your videos.
I was thinking about this and dawns on me that if Subaru had made the valve springs a little weaker it would never have blow up. I had a Honda CB-125S years ago and you could pin the throttle with no load on the engine and it would just rev so high and not go any further.
Good point
James, you have terrified me. I have that same Subaru engine in my Husky generator. It is about 8 or 9 years old, not used much. I had to use it for about 3 hours yesterday as we lost power. I live in Charlton MA and love your UA-cam channel. Thanks, Dick
Great Diagnostic tear down! The conclusion is very sound!
To your complement of tools, a nice brass or copper mallet would be good for doing some hammering like on the ends of the crankshafts when you use that method to remove flywheels. Just a tip from a retired lawn and garden mechanic for Sears back in the day..😑
That would be a good add
And I would thread that nut on till its almost flush. Lots of force on just two rows of threads. Congrats on 100k. !!
I enjoyed that one James. Have known of people using J.b weld for such I remember when they first
stardted using plastic on starter gears
Hello James! New subscriber here. Been enjoying your content. I do like your presentation style. Quiet, not too fast, not too slow. Love small engine stuff. Wanted to say Congrats on 100k subs!
I'd suggest using some aluminum brazing rod to weld up the "inspection window", clean up the journals replace the busted parts and put it back together.
I think we can definitively deduce that the governor went bad, resulting in an over racing engine and subsequent connecting rod failure, not the other way around.
The reason why I say this is the amount of aluminum transfer to the crank journal.
If the running engine had proper oil, and the connecting rod broke first, you would not see that transfer.
But if the governor went, resulting in engine racing, and therefore an over heating condition on the journal, the aluminum transfer would occur.
Thank you for this one. Its a beautifully made engine. I wonder why the flywheel fan is so very rusty. It occurs to me that it does not matter much if flywheel fans are rusty because it would hardly impact the performance of the machine unless it rusted up so much that it stops spinning or the vanes fall off and reduce its effectiveness. This flywheel fan would make a very good experimental subject for an attempt to remove rust using electrolysis. It is a robust piece and quite thick. It would be hard to do any damage. The materials required are very cheap. You cannot lose much money should it be ineffective. You stand to save a lot of money on fuel tanks were it to be effective. I am a skinflint in my very nature.
I have definitely seen small engines destroyed due to governor failure, but in this case, I think that something caused the big end to seize, and that is what caused the rod to break.
I have not seen the internals of a Subaru small engine. It does look well made.
Good Video
I have a Subaru ex21 fuel injected - ridgid 3300 psi pressure washer with Cat pump.
Amazing quality compared to Honda gcv and gsv, metal gears and chain with ball bearings on crank shaft
Interesting video. It may be a well built engine, but sad that it suffered from the old phrase "a chain is no stronger than its weakest link". Sad impact of manufacturing cost saving.
Now all you have to do is wait for a use of all those parts, thanks for the great video
Yeah that's a good rebuild video aluminum is easy to weld but only worth it if you can do it your self.
SOMEONE WAS OVER REVVING THE ENGINE GOVERNORS DO NOT GENERALLY FAIL
Looks like planned obsolescense if ive ever seen it! I had originally thought it was a subaru branded chonda, but then i saw the layout of the intake, exhaust and spark plug. The chonda engines blow up pretty often. Had a governor explode in one and a rod go in another. Was able to make 1 runner out of the two with a little jb weld on the window and a small wrench as a slinger. Was waiting for the earth shattering kaboom, but several hours later the frankenchonda is still a runner. After running and flushing oil several times there isnt even any glitter in the oil.
The only way i would even consider selling it is for the value of the sum of its parts and a very very big bold statement about it.
Tbh i never thought i would have as much fun slapping two cadavre engines together without a care in the world just to see what happens.
Catastrophic small engine failure, if not caused by oil starvation, is more often than not caused by a runaway governor. The bearing damage on this one suggests it was run for some time before the connecting rod took a hike. I’m surprised the previous owner didn’t notice the abnormal running condition before it blew.
Hello. Mr Con Rod here! Just put a new ventilation hole in the engine so you know I’m not connected between crank and piston anymore!! Lol
Nice video. I have never had a Suburu engine, so never saw one taken apart. Well made. Shame about the plastic governor, but all the engines I’ve opened up have plastic there, to my recollection. Even the old Tecumsehs (but then again they had plastic emulsion tubes 25 years ago, too, which I despise.) So maybe there’s a reason for plastic over metal that I don’t understand.
thank you
Yeah they used to be Wisconsin Robin and it doesn't look like they changed the design from when I worked on a few in the late 80's. They were good as long as you didn't run em out of oil. The ones I worked on were industrial application and usually were run out of oil. Some knocked but ran. Some smokes bad but didn't knock.
I have a 10.5 hp 8kw generator red in colour. Any thoughts on where it was built and approx. when?
I want to see you brase that hole shut and do the complete repair! pair it with all repaired items that were once thought to be a lost cause. Use parts like a formerly intermittent stator fixed by boiled in shellac, a once open roter, and any old tecumseh carb (there's the real challenge.)
Another informative video. Thank you.
Tig the block.
When you said the governor looked like it failed, that was my guess as well, it failed the engine ran away, and bang, I would think it could have been pretty loud, both from over reving, and the big bang.
I’m still shocked to learn that a $1200 Honda eu2000i has a plastic cam gear and a belt instead of a chain!
Wow, I've had a Pramec S5000 generator for years now and never realized that that was a chain driven overhead cam...
I say, just for fun, repair the hole with JB Weld or Steel Stick and rebuild the engine. Looks like you’ll only need a couple parts. The crank could easily be cleaned up with muriatic acid and polished with emery cloth.
I had one that over heated and took the temper out of the rings, it was smoking very bad. Replaced the rings and ran like a champ on propane. But after market carbs suck for this engine.
Clone carbs are terrible for that engine. The only clone that runs it as good is made by stens and that one is $100. Not much less then the Mikuni.
@@jcondon1 Thanks James, I have learned so much from your videos. You have helped me many times. Thanks for what you do.
That crank shaft just needs the journal reprofiling at a engine machine shop. I have had a honda crank repaired and worked great.
That crank can be cleaned up, that hole in the block, if you're keen, can be welded up.
Running it out of oil would be my guess
That's why your impact drill fell over at 3:36 ... it's battery died. And not a complete loss with some good parts on there to donate to other worthy engines. Especially those bolts that land on the floor and then seem to disappear into a parallel dimension.
i have a Gentron 10k generator that did exactly that, governor failed and the engine over revved throwing a rod.
Hi James I always enjoy your videos mate I found myself saying your missed a bolt James thank you sharing
Thanks Dean
Enjoyed the video, James. I recently had a EX30 in my shop, I thought the overhead cam was a good idea because the chain would keep a decent amount of oil traveling to the valve/cam area.
Good point
On mine the clip holding the governor pin broke or flew off and the governor pin/armature fell into the crankcase while it was running. Its a solid steel L shaped piece. This in turn broke the paddle that splashes the oil around in the crankcase. Everything else is good. Engine is ok but that stupid paddle is just broken. I have thought about fixing it but not brave enough to go any farther
If its broken, you cannot make it any worse.
Can I replace just the cap that has the paddle on it? Would I have to remove the head or the piston?
@@jcondon1
@@silverstreak1001 is the oil slinger (paddle) on the connecting rod cap? If so then you should replace the connecting rod. The cap is not sold separately and normally they are matched. Not sure if it would be ok to just swap the cap. If you decide to just swap the cap then you have to open up the bottom end of the engine. If replacing the connecting rod then the head should also be remove so you can get the piston out.
See how he works with Ryobi tools that anybody can afford? That's very sporting. I do the same thing.
I use nothing but Ryobi tools for the last 4 years and they are an incredible value.
Excellent! I was wanting to see this, Thank you
Jim, a good welder could fix that block, and it would be as good as new for maybe $20. I've done that on a Honda engine block, but I would be sure to tell the customer in case they would be concerned.
Any thoughts on the best source for parts?
If it were my generator, I'd be patching the hole and putting it back together. I have a backup to my backup generator, though.
Big disadvantage with overhead cam in a small engine: it requires a belt or chain, and even worse than a belt is the chain as it's hundreds of pieces on its own and if you ever had a bicycle, if there is a seized link, it makes the whole system inoperable. And to the dismay of those who thought these engines were better than Honda's GX line is helical gears don't stretch requiring replacment, but chains do, and that why you look at automobiles with timing chains, they have to be replaced too. Also, the cam may be steel, but that cam is overall a weaker piece than the helical gears in the GX for the cam and crank. This may be the reason Subaru's small general purpose engine division became defunct and ultimately bought by Yamaha Motor. Pushrods are incredibly durable and Honda's design is the de-facto setup. Newer Honda GC(V) engines (more specifically the GCV200 and 170) are now of the tried and true pushrod design, but I haven't seen these engines used outside Honda's lawn mower lineup.
Congrats on the 100K subs 🤩 You've earned and deserve that and more-well done!
Big-end seizure but why? You diagnosed that right. I'm still not sold on anything useful being added from having an OHC in a low-revving utility engine, guess I'm old-fashioned...
Thanks
There's plenty of oil in it now, maybe not when it blew up.
Excellent video!
i wondered when you were going to see that last bolt.lol.
You see electronic governors on pad mounted 10kW and higher home backup generators, like Kohler and Generac. The implementation is inexpensive and can be made fail-safe for small incremental parts count.
Old school quality with modern day upgrades! Far cry from all the plastic infused throw away motor junk of today never laid hands on one.
Great video as always. We’ll be here for 250k!
Good video 👍 James
Good Autopsy 🙂 If nothing else you have spare parts. If that is the only Subaru engine that you have ever seen throw a rod in all the Generators you have fixed it speaks of build quality One failure in how many ?
Nice work, is this engine fixed speed, as it has all the makings of a great scooter engine.
It would seem that in a critical governor failure over rev situation bad enough to separate the rod you would have seen valve float bad enough to contact the piston and or at least enough rod stretch / big end wear that interference would have been found?
A reasonable guess.
Of the 3 Ultrasonic Cleaners you have listed in your Amazon Store if you had to pick just one to purchase which would be your choice?
another great vid, nice to get a short
An aluminum block could easily be Tig welded. And with a new rod and governor, boom, you got a good engine.
Are you going to do a follow-up video on your Tecumseh Trouble - Engine Misfire and Melted Tank?
👍 Thanks for the video 👍
I have a Homelite LXRE 4500 with a Robin Subaru 8.5 electric start engine. Stopped producing power. Engine still runs good. I don't have a use for the engine so will probably wind up in scrap, sad.
Craigs List or Ebay.... but that's not what trumptards do...