I am so thankful for your forenza videos. They gave me the confidence to do the head gasket,water pump, and timing belt. The water pump started leaking 3 to 4 months ago and the head gasket was also part of the missing antifreeze. 146,000 miles.
The car will only bring $1000 for trade in central pa. I got a quote for $2000 to do the repair. So I am doing it myself. I have about $300 in a shaved head and gasket kit with head bolts. I do have plenty of hours in it, but your videos have inspired me to keep this car alive. I will let you know if I get success.
Great to hear Don that you don't have a lot of investment in the repairs. If it was me, I would sell it for $2000 if you can get that price. Good luck with your project!
@@stuzman52 I want to thank you again for your detailed videos. I got the forenza running well,. I had to go after some hose leaks, but solved them. Fingers crossed this car hopefully will give my son a good starter car. I know I should sell it, but it now is the devil I know.
Sir you are right on the money. This morning the head gasket went. the oil was full of antifreeze. I will have to start working on. Or buy another vehicle! Thank so much, I will watch some more of your videos.
Glad to hear that you found the issue Dr. McBean. It's not a hard job to pulling the head as this is one of the easiest vehicles to work on. But it does require attention to detail just like any other work. If you decide to do the work yourself, take your time and don't rush yourself, and you will be fine. I'm sure that you've heard the saying that I've got to get this thing back together, so they will hurry. Then of course, they forgot a small detail, sometimes catastrophic. The irony is that they always have time the second time around to do it again. You'll find that the repair is cheaper than buying another vehicle. As you've said, watch a few videos and you'll know if you'll feel comfortable doing the project. One last thought. Be sure to do an oil and filter change before you start the vehicle after the repair is done Run the engine up to normal temp, turn it off and do another oil and filter change. For the first oil and filter change, you can use a conventional oil to minimize costs. The first change is to flush out all of the coolant. On the second oil and filter change, use your preferred oil and filter. Good luck on your repair and for many other successful repairs in the future.
Sorry sir, I replied in the wrong place. But the car is a friend's who said it was running fine and just quit suddenly and now only spins when trying to crank it, seemingly without compression. Thank you for your time.
Hi mshdiy. On the intake camshaft, the lobes for the #1 cylinder should be pointing at 180° (pointing to the back of car). For the exhaust camshaft, the lobes for the #1 cylinder should be pointing at 0° (pointing to the front of car). All valves on the #1 cylinder should not be depressed since you are on the compression stroke with the crank aligned to the TDC mark. Once you put the sprockets on (no belt) and #1 piston is at TDC, your timing mark on the intake sprocket should be very cont)...
Wow. you do some really great videos and are a very talented mechanic. Amazing detail and the audio combined with great video angles make it all look simple. I almost think I could do this myself. Ha. ha. Keep up the great work.
Hi Brandon, if one of your idler pulleys broke, then that tells me the timing belt became loose which would throw your valve sequence out of time. Even though you've put on a new timing belt and it sounds like you have it back in time, some of the valves are probably bent at this point. Yes, you can do a leakage test to verify if you have valves bent. Take a look at my leakage test video, and this will verify your problem. Sure hope you don't have bent valves, but it doesn't sound good. Thanks!
Hi Fred, yes, the Forenza has an interference engine which if the timing belt breaks, there will be valve damage. On some engines as you mention, even if the belt breaks there is room between the top of the pistons and the valves being open that neither will come in contact with each other. These are referred to as non-interference engines. If you go to gates dot com and use their parts locator, it will tell you which engines are which.
close to the 12 o'clock position. On the exhaust sprocket the timing mark will be around the 11 o'clock position. When I installed the belt, I only had to move the intake sprocket clockwise to 12 o'clock for the mark to align. I never moved the intake sprocket. Hope that helps you out.
Very thorough! Not sure what kind of oil you used..personally i like assembling heads with comp cams assembly grease..break in oil..or some rotella oil that has a higher zinc/phosphorus content..a few dabs exactly like u did in your video..
Hi Randy, does the vehicle run correctly now? If it does, then you shouldn't have any valve problem. Has there been any issues with the car before now such as the timing belt broke, etc? If so, then there is a very good chance that you have some bent valves. Just curious why you would ask if there are possibly bent valves. Need a little more history on the car Randy. Thanks for watching!
I see Randy. That's pretty typical of what happens when the timing belt breaks. You'll be running along and then the engine just quits. And when the engine spins over very fast without any compression, that's another sign the belt is probably broken. Quick way to find out without turning the engine over and creating more damage is to unsnap the top three clips on upper timing cover. Pull the cover back and take a look and feel the belt across cam sprockets. You'll know right then....cont)
if the belt is broke. If belt isn't broken, then it probably jumped a few teeth. To confirm even more, you can do a leakage test on each cylinder as I show in my leakage test video for more confirmation. But, at this point right now from what I'm hearing it sounds like your friend already has bent valves. Keep us posted to what you find out Randy and thanks for watching!
I don't speak Spanish, but with a little Google translation, it seems that you want to know about the two star shaped bolts in the center of the head for adjustment of oil flow. I didn't realize that this controls oil flow and if it does, I would definitely not turn these bolts. I don't recall anything about it in the manual, but I'll take a look and see if I can find anything. Thanks for watching!
Hi Brad, no, it's the same camera filmed as always in HD 1920X1080. Once it's uploaded it will go up to 1080p. A lot of times when I come on here, some of the videos will default to 360p and then I have to change the quality to 1080p. I guess it's something happening with youtube, not sure. I just checked this video and it can be seen in 1080p, but you might have to change the quality manually if you're on a computer. Not sure about the iPhone. Thanks for watching!
Hi stuzman, I am having a problem with a random misfire on my 2006 Suzukii Forenza. About 2 weeks ago i was driving down the highway any my car started to misfire really bad out of nowhere. First first thing I checked was to make sure the motor oil wasn't a milky color. Everything is fine there. Then I took apart the timing assembly and had a blown apart idler pulley but the belt was not broke. I replaced the idler and the tensioner and for the heck of if it I put new spark plugs in. When I turned the engine after I repaired the timing it was moving very smooth. So I know none of the valves and rods were bent. I put everything back together then started my car up. Now i was reading a misfire on cylinder 4. I then replaced the plug wires and coil. The misfire then moved to cylinder number 1. The next thing I did was take the fuel injectors out to give them a good cleaning. They were actually not that dirty. Just had very little gunk on them. Well, put all of that back together and now I am getting a P0300 (random misfire). I am at a loss now. I don't think it is a vacuum leak due to the misfire changes cylinders and now it just reading a random misfire. I am at a loss right now. Could a dad cam or crank sensor be causing this? Your thoughts? Thanks JD
JD Koch JD when that idler went bad I would suspect that the timing probably jumped a tooth or two possibly bending valves. What I would do at this point is do a leakage test on each cylinder to confirm that you do not have any bent valves.
Hi Eric. I just put a link to where I used all the information for these videos. You can find the link in the description of this video. Thanks for watching!
Exelentes videos amigo muy buena informacion y muy detalla, Con respecto a esta parte de los taquetes como los llamamos en venezuela se notan dos tornillos de cabeza estrella en el centro de la camara por lo siguentes estos dos tornillos regula la presion de aceite en los taquetes y la camara me podria informar como ajustarlos para obtener el flujo de aceite mas recomendado Gracias de ante mano.
Thanks Cedoan. I have the specification already in the video. It's at timeline 12:47. I realize that it should say 71 lb-in instead of 71 inch-lbs. But most people say it backwards anyway. Hopefully, they'll know that it's in lbs-in. Thanks for your comment!
I can't thank you enough for the level of information you provided here. I only have one question: The camshaft sprockets /bolts were removed when you tore this down. I heard you say the bolts were six or seven dollars, and the washers were also expensive. During my build, I simply left the sprockets on and left the camshaft bolts undisturbed. Is there anything wrong with skipping that step? Will I run into trouble?
+Frank Burrell You're quite welcomed Frank and always glad to help. Yes, the bolts were pretty expensive along with the washers. And of course, you don't have to remove the camshaft bolts. The only reason that I did was to replace both camshaft seals. If your seals were not leaking, you're good to go; so no reason for concern.
Hi Terry, Followed your instructions and everything seems to be going smoothly. Have a question about the camshaft install. Set up TDC on #1. The camshaft was installed as per your instruction where it felt they were seated correctly. On installing the camshaft sprockets, the timing marks are not at TDC marks, because of the alignment of the pins in the camshaft the sprockets. Have not installed the timing belt as yet. Should this create an issue with the timing. Thank you for the great videos.
Mr Stuzman, I am going to change the timing belt on a 2007 Suziki Reno this afternoon and wonder how I can be sure that there are no bent valves before I go through the trouble.
first of all, thank you for doing this write up. worked out great. I actually discovered it after we finished the head gasket, however we found out why it hasn't started the cam gears are on the wrong cams. my question is however, is there any way to identify which camshaft is the exhaust and which is the intake camshaft. as we are now unsure 100% certainty if we put the right cam in the right place. Thanks in advance for your help.
I remember a fellow from awhile back who asked the same question. It could be in the posting of this video. Now, I can not say that it's true to what he said, but with his research, he found out that both camshafts were the same. Maybe you can take both camshafts and look at them together to see if this is true. Personally, I would think the camshaft would be different and not interchangeable. If you see they are different, you may have to call a Suzuki dealership and see if they could help. Maybe there's part numbers on them somewhere. Some more info: I just went to www.suzukicarparts.com and looked up a 2006 Suzuki Forenza. It appears there's two different numbers for the camshafts. Exhaust camshaft: part number = 1272085Z01 Intake camshaft: part number = 1271085Z01 Hope that helps!
what would cause total compression lost across all four cyclinders after idler pulley breaking and timing belt being replaced the engine is mechanically timed correct is there a chance that the timing marks are slightley off the combustion escaped through throttle body while clearing fuel from combustion chambers cranking with pedal all the way down. just need ideas its a 2005 forenza. will leak down test get me a exact diagnosis. thank you for your time please email me need car running
hope you and yours are safe and doing well. thanks for all the information. I need to know if you can instruct me on oil pump replacement on my 2006 Suzuki forenza. thanks
Daniel Mccurdy Sorry Daniel, never did the oil pump on this car. And I sold the car and service manual over a year ago. Maybe someone on here can help you out www.suzuki-forums.com/general-forenza-reno-forum/
There wasn't a specific sequence in the manual. But the general rule is that when loosening bolts for camshafts, start at the outer ends and work your way towards the center. When you're installing the camshafts, start in the center and work your way outward. In either case, be sure to tighten or loosen the bolts only about 1/2 turn each so that the valve springs will be tensioned evenly across the camshafts. Good luck on your repair.
sir i have a question? how many is the pretion for the screws for the transmition automatic for the suzuki forenza 2007? thanks for yours videos. i´ll waiting for your quetion..
Hi i have question on this Suzuki Forenza if timing belt broke does this effect for valve i mean valves could be bent. Some engines doesn't effect if timing belt broke valve is not getting damage.
Great video. everything went great until now. Was tightening camshaft cap bolts. I did not notice that you said inch pounds instead of foot pounds so I set my torque wrench to 25 foot lbs and broke the first bolt. I was able to easy out the bolt . I need a new bolt and cant find one on line. Can I just go to hardware store and get one. If so should I get stainless steal and what size .
You should be able to get another bolt from the hardware store, Lowe's or Home Depot. Take a look at the top of the bolt and see if there are any marking indicating the hardness of the bolt. You can look online to see what I'm talking about. I would just use a standard material, (not sure what it's made from) from the sources above and not use stainless as it could seize over time by being threaded into aluminum. As for the size, I'm pretty sure it's going to be a metric bolt. I don't know that size, but you can take one of your good bolts to any one of the sources above and they have a tool which can measure it. One of the helpers at one of the stores can help you on sizing it up.
i kinda did the same thing. read online that it was 16nm was turning and turning and didnt feel right then pop. lucky there was heaps of screw left over to remove easy and i have a complete spare head to work with. only issue is my torque wrenches dont go down to 8nm thats in the manual. this video has been an amazing help though.
Hi again Terry... instead of having my head rebuild, I just purchased a re manufactured head that came complete with the new valves and included the camshafts... Do you know if the camshafts are the same? I know they list two different parts from the dealer, but I'm a bit leery because it they sure look the same & I'm worried the folks who (mass rebuiild) these things may have made an error. I don't see any marking to identify them.
Someone else asked me this awhile back. I don't know 100% but I believe they are the same. The fellow who asked said he had his original head and another head with the cams and he couldn't find any difference between the two. He came to the conclusion that the two cams were the same. I assume they are as I didn't hear anything back from him. He posted his comments in one of these videos for this series but I can't remember which one it was.
stuzman52 Thank for the info. I just didn't want to find out too late if there was an issue. I looked closely again at my new and the old ones. They had the same (casting?) number and I couldn't see any difference in any of the cam angles or pin placement. Funny because they list two different Suzuki OEM part numbers. (both different prices over $1k ea from the dealer). I imagine they don't sell to many new ones.
Sir I have a suzuki florenza 07. I think antifreeze is burning in the cumbustant chamber, I smell the stuff, the car is also hard to start in the morning.
Good day Dr. McBean. These cars are prone to head gasket failure, so it's quite possible that you have a head gasket issue. Since you can smell the coolant from the exhaust along with it being hard to start, pretty much confirms the coolant leak into the combustion chamber. I have the videos of how to pull the head and reinstall it if you like to do the work yourself. Aluminum heads as on the Forenza, will start to pit if the coolant isn't changed on a regular basis such as every two years. If you do decide to do the work, make sure that you look for pitting on the head deck and that the head is flat. If so, this will require some machine work such as aluminum welding and if the deck is not flat, that will require some extra work too.
Good morning my lifters are not as springy as yours i did put them in a vise and try to bleed them but they are stiff. They didn't bounce back, What am i doing wrong? please help.. thanks.
I've heard others say the same thing. I would say that you should be okay. Just bleed them enough so the stem goes down about a 1/8". That should be good enough for them to pump back up. I never heard anyone say that they had a problem when there's didn't spring back up.
I seem to have a problem with my camshaft seals leaking. I replaced them after I noticed that there was a decent amount of oil leaking from that area (after repairing 8 bent exhaust valves) and the problem seems to have gotten better however there is still a small amount of oil that appears to be leaking from the seals. Any suggestion to fix this problem?
Brian Martinez if they're leaking around the outside then you may want to put a little sealant around them such as RTV. If they're leaking around the inside where the seal touches the shaft then you probably want to redo the installation.
i have to disarm all engine after i put the timing belt doesn start non compression so i decide to take the head but when i take the head i discovered the piston ring was leaking so i decide to do the piston rings. tanks for all am learning a lot.
hi i have a question about ignition spark. can i still get spark with faulty camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensor. or its a 100 % fact that with such faulty sensors i dont get spark at all. thanks a lot!
Hi Pedro. The crank sensor is used as an input to the PCM to generate spark along with other functions. If you lose the crank signal, you won't have any spark. the cam signal is used to initiate the sequencing of the fuel injectors. I'm not sure if losing this signal will also cause you to lose spark. My guess is that it won't.
I'm still wondering how to install the valves themselves? I'm saying that from a very ignorant position and knowledge of engines. What are the valve stems connected to to hold them in while inverting and installing the head. And should I presume there are internal springs on the stems as well? I see the round, washer-like items in each valve case as you're placing the buckets in. Don't know what I'm looking at. You had the machine shop install the valves (probably best thing), it seems, so that's missing in these brilliant and extensive videos, if I'm to try doing it myself. But simply just knowing how they're installed would help my comprehension of Suzuki valves as opposed to typical American cars. Any help?
dasvon Hi dasvon...the valves on the Suzuki engine are no different than a lot of other engines out there. The valves are held in place with two small pieces of metal called keepers that fit into the groove near the top of the valve. There is also a spring along with a valve retainer, (washer like material) that's underneath the keepers. Do a search on UA-cam and you'll see a lot of videos of how to remove valves which will show you how they are held in place.
Great . Thanks for the response. I'll check other vids and ultimately see the valve parts when I dissect down to that point. Without stems and rockers I thought the valves might be odd on Suzukis as well. Wish me luck and thanks again. .
stuzman I finally got everything done. I haven't really me it run for 10 minutes. It's making a loud ticking noise and it's concerning me lol. Just wondering if it's from anything I did wrong to cause it to tick so loud or if it just needs time for the oil to get where it needs to go
If you bled the lifters, it's normal to hear the valves ticking and will take about 20 minutes of idling before it gradually goes away. If that's the case, let it idle and keep a check on the oil pressure light, water temp, etc. Hopefully, that's all you're hearing!
Erick Hernandez When the belt breaks, it’s a good chance that several valves are bent. You could do a leak down test to be sure. I show that procedure in part 2 of this video series. It’s a very good chance the head will have to be removed to have it repaired.
my cams seals are leaking a little. should i take the whole camshafts out to replace my seals? or take only the first bolts closer to the gears. thanks terry!
stuzman I'm afraid i cant get the sprockets bolts for these camshafts. can i reuse these bolts? ive looked on the internet but i can't find them. thanks
I believe those camshaft sprocket bots are torque-to-yield. Try calling these guys and see if they can get you the two camshaft sprocket bolts. Hopefully, they will have them! suzukiautomotiveparts.com/
hello thanks for that info. also do you think my crankshaft gear is the same as this suzuki forenza 2006? im trying to get the gear bolt for crankshaft too. Part Number: 1264685Z00 in the susuki website you told me about.
Hi stuzman, where can i get the camshaft bolts? ive been to hardware stores and none have a bolt that identical... i have also looked online but cant seem to find any. thank you...
If I remember, the OEM parts that I needed I got from this place. Give them a call and see if they can help you out. Seems like I had to call them for some items. Here is the link www.suzukiparts.com/
I take it that you've put them in the car and ran the engine for around 20 minutes or so as it takes a bit of time to get them pumped back up. If all was well before you took the lifters out, they should pump themselves back up. If they don't pump back up after the engine has been running for a bit, then you've got some issues with the ones that don't pump up.
stuzman52 I haven't installed them yet, just bled them. They don't spring up like how yours did when you were showing how they pushed down. So if I understand you right, go ahead and install them and if they make that tappet noise after 20 mins replace them?
Byron Ramos Yes, before they get pumped up, you run them in the car. There is a spring and check ball inside the lifter and the spring should make it return when you press it down. If you bottomed them out completely in the vise, it's possible that the spring got distorted. I would go ahead try them and see how they work in the car. Maybe, they will pump up. Keep in mind that when you first start the engine, it will make a lot of rattling noise. Just let it idle and after a few minutes you'll notice that the noise will start to subside. It will probably take 20-30 minutes before the noise is gone. If after this period, you still have a noise, then you've got a bad tappet or two. You may want to keep up which one is which that gave you the spring problem, just in case. Good luck on your repair.
@stuzman52 i am having a hard time reinstalling the cams when the caps are replaced with the correct torque specs they will not turn at all by turning the cam gear or by hand when the cams are placed they get stuck and do not turn at all is this an issue?
+Nickolas Wilson Did your belt break on you? If so, did you check for bent valves? And when the valves are bent, that would prevent you from turning the camshafts. So, what's the scoop...
+Nickolas Wilson The only thing that I can think of is that the a couple of your pistons are at TDC and if you're turning the cams, some of the valves would open hitting the pistons at top. So, do this with the belt off...turn the crankshaft sprocket one-half turn clockwise away from the timing mark on this sprocket from the timing mark on the rear timing cover. This will place all the pistons in the middle of their bores. Now, you should be able to turn either camshaft around and when the valves open, they wouldn't be hitting the pistons. Assuming that all of this is good, turn the camshaft sprockets to get their timing marks aligned with the rear timing cover marks and then lock the sprockets down with a pair of vise grip pliers as I show in one of the videos to keep them from moving. Now, go back and turn the crankshaft sprocket counter clockwise to get its timing mark aligned with the timing mark on the rear cover. Now, you can route the belt and get it tensioned up. All shown in one of the videos. Then turn the crankshaft sprocket over at least two revolutions and make sure all of the timing marks on cam sprockets and crank sprocket are aligned. Hopefully, all will go well.
That could be a lot of different issues. Fuse blown that feeds the injectors or to the PCM, crank sensor issue, etc. Start with the basics and see if you have B+ to the injectors.
I am so thankful for your forenza videos. They gave me the confidence to do the head gasket,water pump, and timing belt. The water pump started leaking 3 to 4 months ago and the head gasket was also part of the missing antifreeze. 146,000 miles.
The car will only bring $1000 for trade in central pa. I got a quote for $2000 to do the repair. So I am doing it myself. I have about $300 in a shaved head and gasket kit with head bolts. I do have plenty of hours in it, but your videos have inspired me to keep this car alive. I will let you know if I get success.
You are quite welcome Don! Yes, it's a common problem where the head gasket leaks.
Great to hear Don that you don't have a lot of investment in the repairs. If it was me, I would sell it for $2000 if you can get that price. Good luck with your project!
@@stuzman52 I want to thank you again for your detailed videos. I got the forenza running well,. I had to go after some hose leaks, but solved them. Fingers crossed this car hopefully will give my son a good starter car. I know I should sell it, but it now is the devil I know.
@@donstiver3039 Glad to hear Don that you got the vehicle running and that it be will be a good starter car for your son. Keep up the good work!
i’ve tore apart and rebuilt my suzuki frenza while watching your videos
Very glad to hear that the videos helped you out Gaige! Keep up the good work!
@@stuzman52 THANKS!! YOU TOOOOOO!!!!!
Sir you are right on the money. This morning the head gasket went. the oil was full of antifreeze. I will have to start working on. Or buy another vehicle! Thank so much, I will watch some more of your videos.
Glad to hear that you found the issue Dr. McBean. It's not a hard job to pulling the head as this is one of the easiest vehicles to work on. But it does require attention to detail just like any other work. If you decide to do the work yourself, take your time and don't rush yourself, and you will be fine. I'm sure that you've heard the saying that I've got to get this thing back together, so they will hurry. Then of course, they forgot a small detail, sometimes catastrophic. The irony is that they always have time the second time around to do it again. You'll find that the repair is cheaper than buying another vehicle. As you've said, watch a few videos and you'll know if you'll feel comfortable doing the project. One last thought. Be sure to do an oil and filter change before you start the vehicle after the repair is done Run the engine up to normal temp, turn it off and do another oil and filter change. For the first oil and filter change, you can use a conventional oil to minimize costs. The first change is to flush out all of the coolant. On the second oil and filter change, use your preferred oil and filter. Good luck on your repair and for many other successful repairs in the future.
Sorry sir, I replied in the wrong place. But the car is a friend's who said it was running fine and just quit suddenly and now only spins when trying to crank it, seemingly without compression. Thank you for your time.
Thank you Randy for your contributions and we look forward to seeing what you find out. Thanks again!
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Once again excellent teaching! Just wonder if you are filming with different camera, It doesn't seam to be as clear as other videos on my iPhone .
Hi mshdiy. On the intake camshaft, the lobes for the #1 cylinder should be pointing at 180° (pointing to the back of car). For the exhaust camshaft, the lobes for the #1 cylinder should be pointing at 0° (pointing to the front of car). All valves on the #1 cylinder should not be depressed since you are on the compression stroke with the crank aligned to the TDC mark. Once you put the sprockets on (no belt) and #1 piston is at TDC, your timing mark on the intake sprocket should be very cont)...
Wow. you do some really great videos and are a very talented mechanic. Amazing detail and the audio combined with great video angles make it all look simple. I almost think I could do this myself. Ha. ha. Keep up the great work.
Hi Brandon, if one of your idler pulleys broke, then that tells me the timing belt became loose which would throw your valve sequence out of time. Even though you've put on a new timing belt and it sounds like you have it back in time, some of the valves are probably bent at this point. Yes, you can do a leakage test to verify if you have valves bent. Take a look at my leakage test video, and this will verify your problem. Sure hope you don't have bent valves, but it doesn't sound good. Thanks!
Couldn't reply to you directly Dale. Thanks for the comments and like that you like the videos.
Hi Fred, yes, the Forenza has an interference engine which if the timing belt breaks, there will be valve damage. On some engines as you mention, even if the belt breaks there is room between the top of the pistons and the valves being open that neither will come in contact with each other. These are referred to as non-interference engines. If you go to gates dot com and use their parts locator, it will tell you which engines are which.
close to the 12 o'clock position. On the exhaust sprocket the timing mark will be around the 11 o'clock position. When I installed the belt, I only had to move the intake sprocket clockwise to 12 o'clock for the mark to align. I never moved the intake sprocket. Hope that helps you out.
No problem mshdiy. Glad to help out. Let me know how it turns out.
Very thorough! Not sure what kind of oil you used..personally i like assembling heads with comp cams assembly grease..break in oil..or some rotella oil that has a higher zinc/phosphorus content..a few dabs exactly like u did in your video..
No problem Randy. You did see my comments to your remarks, correct?
Hi Randy, does the vehicle run correctly now? If it does, then you shouldn't have any valve problem. Has there been any issues with the car before now such as the timing belt broke, etc? If so, then there is a very good chance that you have some bent valves. Just curious why you would ask if there are possibly bent valves. Need a little more history on the car Randy. Thanks for watching!
I see Randy. That's pretty typical of what happens when the timing belt breaks. You'll be running along and then the engine just quits. And when the engine spins over very fast without any compression, that's another sign the belt is probably broken. Quick way to find out without turning the engine over and creating more damage is to unsnap the top three clips on upper timing cover. Pull the cover back and take a look and feel the belt across cam sprockets. You'll know right then....cont)
if the belt is broke. If belt isn't broken, then it probably jumped a few teeth. To confirm even more, you can do a leakage test on each cylinder as I show in my leakage test video for more confirmation. But, at this point right now from what I'm hearing it sounds like your friend already has bent valves. Keep us posted to what you find out Randy and thanks for watching!
Que tan bueno escucharlo en español
Sorry, I don't speak Spanish...
I don't speak Spanish, but with a little Google translation, it seems that you want to know about the two star shaped bolts in the center of the head for adjustment of oil flow. I didn't realize that this controls oil flow and if it does, I would definitely not turn these bolts. I don't recall anything about it in the manual, but I'll take a look and see if I can find anything. Thanks for watching!
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
You are welcome!
Hi Brad, no, it's the same camera filmed as always in HD 1920X1080. Once it's uploaded it will go up to 1080p. A lot of times when I come on here, some of the videos will default to 360p and then I have to change the quality to 1080p. I guess it's something happening with youtube, not sure. I just checked this video and it can be seen in 1080p, but you might have to change the quality manually if you're on a computer. Not sure about the iPhone. Thanks for watching!
Hey Terry, i've installed my camshafts but 71 inch pounds is almost 6 ft lbs. That seems a little low. Is that correct?
Thanks Terry. That helps a lot. Will adjust as mentioned Thanks again.
Belongs to a friend. It was running fine and just quit. Now engine spins seemingly without compression when trying to crank it.
Hi stuzman,
I am having a problem with a random misfire on my 2006 Suzukii Forenza. About 2 weeks ago i was driving down the highway any my car started to misfire really bad out of nowhere. First first thing I checked was to make sure the motor oil wasn't a milky color. Everything is fine there. Then I took apart the timing assembly and had a blown apart idler pulley but the belt was not broke. I replaced the idler and the tensioner and for the heck of if it I put new spark plugs in. When I turned the engine after I repaired the timing it was moving very smooth. So I know none of the valves and rods were bent. I put everything back together then started my car up. Now i was reading a misfire on cylinder 4. I then replaced the plug wires and coil. The misfire then moved to cylinder number 1. The next thing I did was take the fuel injectors out to give them a good cleaning. They were actually not that dirty. Just had very little gunk on them. Well, put all of that back together and now I am getting a P0300 (random misfire). I am at a loss now. I don't think it is a vacuum leak due to the misfire changes cylinders and now it just reading a random misfire. I am at a loss right now. Could a dad cam or crank sensor be causing this? Your thoughts?
Thanks
JD
JD Koch JD when that idler went bad I would suspect that the timing probably jumped a tooth or two possibly bending valves. What I would do at this point is do a leakage test on each cylinder to confirm that you do not have any bent valves.
stuzman Thank you. You have been a big help.
JD Koch no problem JD. I just hope it's nothing serious.
Hi Eric. I just put a link to where I used all the information for these videos. You can find the link in the description of this video. Thanks for watching!
Exelentes videos amigo muy buena informacion y muy detalla, Con respecto a esta parte de los taquetes como los llamamos en venezuela se notan dos tornillos de cabeza estrella en el centro de la camara por lo siguentes estos dos tornillos regula la presion de aceite en los taquetes y la camara me podria informar como ajustarlos para obtener el flujo de aceite mas recomendado Gracias de ante mano.
Hi Terry, The fastener tightening specification for the Camshaft sensor is 8 N•m (71 lb-in) in case you want to update this for the viewers.
Thanks Cedoan. I have the specification already in the video. It's at timeline 12:47. I realize that it should say 71 lb-in instead of 71 inch-lbs. But most people say it backwards anyway. Hopefully, they'll know that it's in lbs-in. Thanks for your comment!
stuzman52 i was referring to about 15:25 :)
Sorry Cedoan...I just updated the video with the correct torque specs for the camshaft sensor bolt. Thanks Cedoan....
I can't thank you enough for the level of information you provided here. I only have one question: The camshaft sprockets /bolts were removed when you tore this down. I heard you say the bolts were six or seven dollars, and the washers were also expensive. During my build, I simply left the sprockets on and left the camshaft bolts undisturbed. Is there anything wrong with skipping that step? Will I run into trouble?
+Frank Burrell You're quite welcomed Frank and always glad to help. Yes, the bolts were pretty expensive along with the washers. And of course, you don't have to remove the camshaft bolts. The only reason that I did was to replace both camshaft seals. If your seals were not leaking, you're good to go; so no reason for concern.
+stuzman52 God Bless
Thank you very much. I'll come back and let you know.
Hi Terry,
Followed your instructions and everything seems to be going smoothly. Have a question about the camshaft install. Set up TDC on #1. The camshaft was installed as per your instruction where it felt they were seated correctly. On installing the camshaft sprockets, the timing marks are not at TDC marks, because of the alignment of the pins in the camshaft the sprockets. Have not installed the timing belt as yet. Should this create an issue with the timing. Thank you for the great videos.
Mr Stuzman, I am going to change the timing belt on a 2007 Suziki Reno this afternoon and wonder how I can be sure that there are no bent valves before I go through the trouble.
first of all, thank you for doing this write up. worked out great. I actually discovered it after we finished the head gasket, however we found out why it hasn't started the cam gears are on the wrong cams. my question is however, is there any way to identify which camshaft is the exhaust and which is the intake camshaft. as we are now unsure 100% certainty if we put the right cam in the right place. Thanks in advance for your help.
I remember a fellow from awhile back who asked the same question. It could be in the posting of this video. Now, I can not say that it's true to what he said, but with his research, he found out that both camshafts were the same. Maybe you can take both camshafts and look at them together to see if this is true. Personally, I would think the camshaft would be different and not interchangeable. If you see they are different, you may have to call a Suzuki dealership and see if they could help. Maybe there's part numbers on them somewhere.
Some more info: I just went to www.suzukicarparts.com and looked up a 2006 Suzuki Forenza. It appears there's two different numbers for the camshafts.
Exhaust camshaft: part number = 1272085Z01
Intake camshaft: part number = 1271085Z01
Hope that helps!
+stuzman52 sir again thank you very much. I did not think to look up those part numbers.
what would cause total compression lost across all four cyclinders after idler pulley breaking and timing belt being replaced the engine is mechanically timed correct is there a chance that the timing marks are slightley off the combustion escaped through throttle body while clearing fuel from combustion chambers cranking with pedal all the way down. just need ideas its a 2005 forenza. will leak down test get me a exact diagnosis. thank you for your time please email me need car running
hope you and yours are safe and doing well. thanks for all the information. I need to know if you can instruct me on oil pump replacement on my 2006 Suzuki forenza. thanks
Daniel Mccurdy Sorry Daniel, never did the oil pump on this car. And I sold the car and service manual over a year ago. Maybe someone on here can help you out www.suzuki-forums.com/general-forenza-reno-forum/
what is the torque sequence for loosening the bearing caps? by the way, your videos are amazing.
There wasn't a specific sequence in the manual. But the general rule is that when loosening bolts for camshafts, start at the outer ends and work your way towards the center. When you're installing the camshafts, start in the center and work your way outward. In either case, be sure to tighten or loosen the bolts only about 1/2 turn each so that the valve springs will be tensioned evenly across the camshafts. Good luck on your repair.
sir
i have a question?
how many is the pretion for the screws for the transmition automatic for the suzuki forenza 2007?
thanks for yours videos.
i´ll waiting for your quetion..
Hi i have question on this Suzuki Forenza if timing belt broke does this effect for valve i mean valves could be bent. Some engines doesn't effect if timing belt broke valve is not getting damage.
Great video. everything went great until now. Was tightening camshaft cap bolts. I did not notice that you said inch pounds instead of foot pounds so I set my torque wrench to 25 foot lbs and broke the first bolt. I was able to easy out the bolt . I need a new bolt and cant find one on line. Can I just go to hardware store and get one. If so should I get stainless steal and what size .
You should be able to get another bolt from the hardware store, Lowe's or Home Depot. Take a look at the top of the bolt and see if there are any marking indicating the hardness of the bolt. You can look online to see what I'm talking about. I would just use a standard material, (not sure what it's made from) from the sources above and not use stainless as it could seize over time by being threaded into aluminum. As for the size, I'm pretty sure it's going to be a metric bolt. I don't know that size, but you can take one of your good bolts to any one of the sources above and they have a tool which can measure it. One of the helpers at one of the stores can help you on sizing it up.
i kinda did the same thing. read online that it was 16nm was turning and turning and didnt feel right then pop. lucky there was heaps of screw left over to remove easy and i have a complete spare head to work with. only issue is my torque wrenches dont go down to 8nm thats in the manual. this video has been an amazing help though.
Hi again Terry... instead of having my head rebuild, I just purchased a re manufactured head that came complete with the new valves and included the camshafts... Do you know if the camshafts are the same? I know they list two different parts from the dealer, but I'm a bit leery because it they sure look the same & I'm worried the folks who (mass rebuiild) these things may have made an error. I don't see any marking to identify them.
Someone else asked me this awhile back. I don't know 100% but I believe they are the same. The fellow who asked said he had his original head and another head with the cams and he couldn't find any difference between the two. He came to the conclusion that the two cams were the same. I assume they are as I didn't hear anything back from him. He posted his comments in one of these videos for this series but I can't remember which one it was.
stuzman52
Thank for the info. I just didn't want to find out too late if there was an issue. I looked closely again at my new and the old ones. They had the same (casting?) number and I couldn't see any difference in any of the cam angles or pin placement. Funny because they list two different Suzuki OEM part numbers. (both different prices over $1k ea from the dealer). I imagine they don't sell to many new ones.
Hi Marc, I agree with you that at $1000 each, who would buy one of them things. Very expensive indeed!
Sir I have a suzuki florenza 07. I think antifreeze is burning in the cumbustant chamber, I smell the stuff, the car is also hard to start in the morning.
Good day Dr. McBean. These cars are prone to head gasket failure, so it's quite possible that you have a head gasket issue. Since you can smell the coolant from the exhaust along with it being hard to start, pretty much confirms the coolant leak into the combustion chamber. I have the videos of how to pull the head and reinstall it if you like to do the work yourself. Aluminum heads as on the Forenza, will start to pit if the coolant isn't changed on a regular basis such as every two years. If you do decide to do the work, make sure that you look for pitting on the head deck and that the head is flat. If so, this will require some machine work such as aluminum welding and if the deck is not flat, that will require some extra work too.
tanks. i learn many things . what size its the socket you use it? its like star
+misael pacheco I'm sure that I mentioned it in here, but it looks like an E10.
What do you mean when you said spring pressure.
Without going back at looking at the video, it would be the spring pressure that the spring(s) is exerting on the valve(s).
Good morning my lifters are not as springy as yours i did put them in a vise and try to bleed them but they are stiff. They didn't bounce back, What am i doing wrong? please help.. thanks.
I've heard others say the same thing. I would say that you should be okay. Just bleed them enough so the stem goes down about a 1/8". That should be good enough for them to pump back up. I never heard anyone say that they had a problem when there's didn't spring back up.
thanks again!! you're the best...
Glad to help out.
I seem to have a problem with my camshaft seals leaking. I replaced them after I noticed that there was a decent amount of oil leaking from that area (after repairing 8 bent exhaust valves) and the problem seems to have gotten better however there is still a small amount of oil that appears to be leaking from the seals. Any suggestion to fix this problem?
Brian Martinez if they're leaking around the outside then you may want to put a little sealant around them such as RTV. If they're leaking around the inside where the seal touches the shaft then you probably want to redo the installation.
i have to disarm all engine after i put the timing belt doesn start non compression so i decide to take the head but when i take the head i discovered the piston ring was leaking so i decide to do the piston rings. tanks for all am learning a lot.
+misael pacheco Hope everything goes well for you.
hi i have a question about ignition spark. can i still get spark with faulty camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensor. or its a 100 % fact that with such faulty sensors i dont get spark at all. thanks a lot!
Hi Pedro. The crank sensor is used as an input to the PCM to generate spark along with other functions. If you lose the crank signal, you won't have any spark. the cam signal is used to initiate the sequencing of the fuel injectors. I'm not sure if losing this signal will also cause you to lose spark. My guess is that it won't.
I'm still wondering how to install the valves themselves? I'm saying that from a very ignorant position and knowledge of engines. What are the valve stems connected to to hold them in while inverting and installing the head. And should I presume there are internal springs on the stems as well? I see the round, washer-like items in each valve case as you're placing the buckets in. Don't know what I'm looking at.
You had the machine shop install the valves (probably best thing), it seems, so that's missing in these brilliant and extensive videos, if I'm to try doing it myself. But simply just knowing how they're installed would help my comprehension of Suzuki valves as opposed to typical American cars.
Any help?
dasvon Hi dasvon...the valves on the Suzuki engine are no different than a lot of other engines out there. The valves are held in place with two small pieces of metal called keepers that fit into the groove near the top of the valve. There is also a spring along with a valve retainer, (washer like material) that's underneath the keepers. Do a search on UA-cam and you'll see a lot of videos of how to remove valves which will show you how they are held in place.
Great . Thanks for the response. I'll check other vids and ultimately see the valve parts when I dissect down to that point. Without stems and rockers I thought the valves might be odd on Suzukis as well. Wish me luck and thanks again. .
dasvon Good luck with your project and many successes!
Thanks 👍
You're welcome.
I was wondering if you knew what the two screws are for in the middle of the head between the cam safts
I believe they are used to plug off the oil galleries that run inside the head.
stuzman I finally got everything done. I haven't really me it run for 10 minutes. It's making a loud ticking noise and it's concerning me lol. Just wondering if it's from anything I did wrong to cause it to tick so loud or if it just needs time for the oil to get where it needs to go
Plus they told me at auto parts that it took 7 gallons of antifreeze. Which seems wtong to me. Cause it was full at 3 gallons ?
If you bled the lifters, it's normal to hear the valves ticking and will take about 20 minutes of idling before it gradually goes away. If that's the case, let it idle and keep a check on the oil pressure light, water temp, etc. Hopefully, that's all you're hearing!
If the timing belt broke we need to fix all the head??
Erick Hernandez When the belt breaks, it’s a good chance that several valves are bent. You could do a leak down test to be sure. I show that procedure in part 2 of this video series. It’s a very good chance the head will have to be removed to have it repaired.
my cams seals are leaking a little. should i take the whole camshafts out to replace my seals? or take only the first bolts closer to the gears. thanks terry!
Pedro Morales Magonzales Maratto Mulasso Modestos you can leave the camshafts in place and only remove the camshaft sprocket's. 👍
stuzman I'm afraid i cant get the sprockets bolts for these camshafts. can i reuse these bolts? ive looked on the internet but i can't find them. thanks
I believe those camshaft sprocket bots are torque-to-yield. Try calling these guys and see if they can get you the two camshaft sprocket bolts. Hopefully, they will have them! suzukiautomotiveparts.com/
hello thanks for that info. also do you think my crankshaft gear is the same as this suzuki forenza 2006? im trying to get the gear bolt for crankshaft too. Part Number: 1264685Z00 in the susuki website you told me about.
Pedro Morales Magonzales Maratto Mulasso Modestos probably so, but give a call to make sure.
Hi stuzman, where can i get the camshaft bolts? ive been to hardware stores and none have a bolt that identical... i have also looked online but cant seem to find any. thank you...
If I remember, the OEM parts that I needed I got from this place. Give them a call and see if they can help you out. Seems like I had to call them for some items. Here is the link www.suzukiparts.com/
yes, exactly. there was one at ace but it was stainless steel so im not sure it will work..
Try the link that I posted earlier and see if they can help you out.
how many foot/pound on camshaft holder(caps) .? 16 .? y
i did one hand tigth and then 1/4 of turn.
+misael pacheco All the torques are in the videos. If I remember, it was 71 inch-lbs.
Is there a problem if my lifters wont pump back up? Some do, some don't
I take it that you've put them in the car and ran the engine for around 20 minutes or so as it takes a bit of time to get them pumped back up. If all was well before you took the lifters out, they should pump themselves back up. If they don't pump back up after the engine has been running for a bit, then you've got some issues with the ones that don't pump up.
stuzman52 I haven't installed them yet, just bled them. They don't spring up like how yours did when you were showing how they pushed down. So
if I understand you right, go ahead and install them and if they make that tappet noise after 20 mins replace them?
Byron Ramos Yes, before they get pumped up, you run them in the car. There is a spring and check ball inside the lifter and the spring should make it return when you press it down. If you bottomed them out completely in the vise, it's possible that the spring got distorted. I would go ahead try them and see how they work in the car. Maybe, they will pump up. Keep in mind that when you first start the engine, it will make a lot of rattling noise. Just let it idle and after a few minutes you'll notice that the noise will start to subside. It will probably take 20-30 minutes before the noise is gone. If after this period, you still have a noise, then you've got a bad tappet or two. You may want to keep up which one is which that gave you the spring problem, just in case. Good luck on your repair.
stuzman52 Thanks! Will do.
i dont know if its a lot or not
@stuzman52 i am having a hard time reinstalling the cams when the caps are replaced with the correct torque specs they will not turn at all by turning the cam gear or by hand when the cams are placed they get stuck and do not turn at all is this an issue?
+Nickolas Wilson Did your belt break on you? If so, did you check for bent valves? And when the valves are bent, that would prevent you from turning the camshafts. So, what's the scoop...
stuzman52 timing belt did not break
+Nickolas Wilson The only thing that I can think of is that the a couple of your pistons are at TDC and if you're turning the cams, some of the valves would open hitting the pistons at top. So, do this with the belt off...turn the crankshaft sprocket one-half turn clockwise away from the timing mark on this sprocket from the timing mark on the rear timing cover. This will place all the pistons in the middle of their bores. Now, you should be able to turn either camshaft around and when the valves open, they wouldn't be hitting the pistons. Assuming that all of this is good, turn the camshaft sprockets to get their timing marks aligned with the rear timing cover marks and then lock the sprockets down with a pair of vise grip pliers as I show in one of the videos to keep them from moving. Now, go back and turn the crankshaft sprocket counter clockwise to get its timing mark aligned with the timing mark on the rear cover. Now, you can route the belt and get it tensioned up. All shown in one of the videos. Then turn the crankshaft sprocket over at least two revolutions and make sure all of the timing marks on cam sprockets and crank sprocket are aligned. Hopefully, all will go well.
Where can i get those camshaft bolts.
If I remember Gene it was from www.suzukipartscom I'm not sure if they're still around as Suzuki isn't supported in the US anymore.
@@stuzman52 K, thank you.
Gene Russ You’re welcome!
Can you tell me where you got the new bolts from...
I believe this is the place I ordered the cam and crank bolts. I had to give them a call for the bolts. www.suzukicarparts.com/
That's cool...I have an email into them to see if they have them....thanks. Great set of video's.
I am have in a problem with my engine I am not getting no gas in the injectors
That could be a lot of different issues. Fuse blown that feeds the injectors or to the PCM, crank sensor issue, etc. Start with the basics and see if you have B+ to the injectors.
En español
Sorry, not in spanish...