From someone who has worked with windows a lot: Do not measure the window frame height width and depth, they are rarely square and true. Cut thin strips of 1/8" ply or something similar and fit them into the frame and use hot glue to make a template for the window's shape. Cut your sheetrock to that shape and then cut your framing material to size and build your frame. Also you should reinforce the inside of the frame corners with wooden blocks, as screws through a buttjoint into endgrain will fail in one of a few ways before too long.
Do u have advice for doing this but wirh making the wood frame and adding clear plexiglass (to cut down on sound)? We want to make a wood frame and then connect the plexiglass somehow w a handle for easy removal.
@@74betty I did exactly this using Lexan plexiglass. My basement window is 24"x48". The deeper the window sill is better sound reduction you will have (my window sill is 15" deep). It must be totally air sealed all around the plug frame. I stapled 1/2" cork sheets all along the inside (top, bottom and sides) of the window sill and it acts as the gasket. Can't hear a thing, even loud bass is barely noticeable.
I repurposed a 3 inch queen bed foam topper for the inside as the deadening for both of my 36x35 windows since I didn’t have green glue or dynamat. Cut to a super tight fit with an electric bread knife. I literally couldnt hear fireworks for july 4th or the crazy dog next door. Make sure you are very thorough soundproofing your door or outside noise will travel from other rooms.
I've also used memory foam. Has to be the high density type. IMO, it has better sound absorption and cuts down on echo and reverberation better than standard fiberglass or rockwool.
id like to see a test using a db meter with and without the window plug. Maybe have a lawnmower running sitting outside the window. Test without and with using the db meter to see how much it really blocks.
I second this! I need need NEED to block out the noise from the street of my apartment. I didn’t realize it was this nosey when I signed the lease but it’s in the flight path of an airport! Here for a year so trying to make the most of the situation but curtains ain’t cutting it. Getting earplugs while I research and binge all your videos but for me- I just want to do whatever to block as much noise as possible and I’d love to see the decrease in sound. Whatever I build I’ll share my results with you! Before and after with my dB ratings.
Isn't noise like water? (i.e. path of least resistance?) The box frame is brilliant, but the weather strip is surely the weak point in stopping the noise getting through?
I lived on a high road in an old Victorian house in London UK, the house had original single glazed windows and they let in a lot of noise and cold, i have drastically improved the noise just with weather strips that I have bought from the dollar £ store, it was crazy
Im about to do this with the vinyl mass thingy. The dogs barking in the others apartments are not letting me sleep at night. I would like to know your background to know how you became so knowledgable on this topic, maybe for a short or a video.
The large the air gap is between the window and window plug makes all the difference. Everything needs to be sealed air tight. The window frame cannot leak any air at all.
Great question! They have clear inserts on the market that works quite well! Here’s a link of a video I made testing one out - ua-cam.com/video/apEHGPTy2yc/v-deo.htmlsi=BjJmzeDQTtyJrGa8
I purchased a "window insert" from a company called, "Indow". I bought it for noise reduction. It will be shipping to me soon. It is a test. I'm putting it into my kitchen window. I live in a condo apartment. I hear everything!!! I hear neighbors through my walls, which I tolerate. What I can't tolerate is the noise from the landscapers!! I'm on the second floor. When they use the machines to cut grass and bushes it is extremely noisy!! This is the main reason I'm getting this. However, the window in my bedroom is made up of four windows each measuring around 28" by 51". I paid a lot for the insert. I guess I would have to make maybe two plugs for this area. I appreciate your videos. Also, I have never built anything in my life so this would be a challenge!!
Indow windows works well if you already have a thin window that’s letting in a lot of noise! Here’s a video where I test out the indow window insert! You’ll be able to hear the difference! ua-cam.com/video/apEHGPTy2yc/v-deo.htmlsi=YLYt_0bPp8Q3lZI3
The larger the gap between the windows, the less sound comes through. Of course the windows and frames have to be sealed air tight. The same goes for walls.
Could I just use the mineral wool alone or would it start falling appart&pollute the air? Is MLV that important? I'm thinking the wool alone coul also be better as I could make it slightly larger and squeeze it in to close all the gaps
As an alternative to this I found that you can get solid hardwood shutters online custom made to measure. This means that you can block quite a lot of noise and still be able to open your window and get light in the daytime.
3/4" Plywood and 1/2" cork underlay might be even better and lighter. Drywall/sheetrock tends to vibrate resonant frequencies with anything below 125Hz.
Is there any downside to having a panel that rests against the walls over the window, rather than inside the window sill? My windows don’t have trim around them like in the video, so the sound panel would be flush to the wall. Seems like it would work as well if not better, because there would be overlap on the sides and top (but not bottom because of the sill sticking out). I am thinking of having some brackets to keep the panel in place.
Two 5/8" drywall will do fine, but it will be heavy. Makes sure there is 3-5" of dead space between the window and drywall plug... the more space the better. Seal it all with self-adhesive weather stripping and make sure no air or light is getting in.
@@JP5466 Thanks for the response JP. I have changed plan to place four 1" depth planks all around the window frame and then screwing L shaped brackets at the bottom one and then sticking a 3/4" MDF board with clamps screwed into the planks so that I can remove it when needed. Next month.
@@faisal-ca Just keep in mind that putting more screws into the window frame is going to cause more transfer of outside noise via vibration, especially the lower frequencies. It's better to double plywood/ drywall on the inner part of the window plug (the part facing you) so to avoid a triple leaf effect. I used 1/2" cork sheeting around the outside of the plug and the inside part of the window frame to make a air seal gasket. It also helps reduce the vibrational noise.
@@faisal-ca Can't use sealant because I didn't want the plug to be permanent, only when noise was an issue. I used Gorilla adhesive to glue the entire plug frame together. The plug is wedged in and held in place by it's tight fit. Measurements had to be very precise. I screwed 2 handles on the outside of the plug to make it easier to put in and take out. The 15" air gap is really the whole key here and why it works so well. Initially I was pulling my hair out with lots of trial and error until I started studying acoustic science, then I realized the air gap would do most of the work for me. Hope this helps you and good luck with your build.
4:00 A pilot hole should be about the diameter of the screw minus the thread of the screw, not the size of the entire screw. People should also be aware that window frames aren't always perfectly square. They could be a bit out of alignment. When I did a big area of heat shielding for my huge bedroom window, I had to add some strips of cardboard around the edges, to fill in the tiny gaps where light was still shining in. Now, most of the day the room is pretty well pitch black and it doesn't get as hot or cold as the rest of the house.
I was thinking instead of stripping to seal it. Something like door sweeps to overlap. If somebody had leftover MLV that would make good overlap seal too I presume. [though the boogh ledge on that windows casing would make this difficult.]
If you have a deep window sill (mine is 15" deep) the sound reduction will be even better, just make sure there are no air gaps. Even low frequencies won't be able to bother you.
Can this be done for an entire wall? My bedroom faces the front of the house, and I hear neighbors slam their car doors in the morning. I can’t add a layer of drywall since I’m renting, I need to add another layer against the front wall
You can try hanging Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) directly on the wall with removable hooks or even mount it on a temporary frame to block sound. Acoustic panels can help absorb some noise, especially if you combine them with MLV. Soundproof curtains or thick blankets are also good options and easy to install with hooks. Lastly, placing a bookcase or other heavy furniture against the wall adds mass and helps dampen noise. These options don’t require permanent changes, so they’re great for renters!
My casing is large enough to not have to worry about it falling. Just build it small enough so it completely fits in the window casing. The weatherstrip will also help keep it in place, especially if you buy rubber weatherstrip
@@soundproofguide I think my window has less depth than yours. I was thinking more like nailing both sides of the wall and placing a retractable support, but not exactly sure what parts to use.
I plan on installing door hook locks on the outside of the panel to the frame of the window for an extra layer of security incase it falls or my son tries to pull it out (he's 2)
I really need your help. I live in apartment, and we have double dry wall, but the first wall is thin. Also my window is very thin too. I want to play my electric guitar, but I don’t want to disturb my neighbors. How do I block the sound waves from my room, and so my window, so my neighbors won’t hear me playing guitars. I am struggling so hard.
Links to ALL products I recommend in the description of this video!
From someone who has worked with windows a lot: Do not measure the window frame height width and depth, they are rarely square and true. Cut thin strips of 1/8" ply or something similar and fit them into the frame and use hot glue to make a template for the window's shape. Cut your sheetrock to that shape and then cut your framing material to size and build your frame. Also you should reinforce the inside of the frame corners with wooden blocks, as screws through a buttjoint into endgrain will fail in one of a few ways before too long.
Great information! Thanks!
Do u have advice for doing this but wirh making the wood frame and adding clear plexiglass (to cut down on sound)? We want to make a wood frame and then connect the plexiglass somehow w a handle for easy removal.
@@74betty I did exactly this using Lexan plexiglass. My basement window is 24"x48". The deeper the window sill is better sound reduction you will have (my window sill is 15" deep). It must be totally air sealed all around the plug frame. I stapled 1/2" cork sheets all along the inside (top, bottom and sides) of the window sill and it acts as the gasket. Can't hear a thing, even loud bass is barely noticeable.
I repurposed a 3 inch queen bed foam topper for the inside as the deadening for both of my 36x35 windows since I didn’t have green glue or dynamat. Cut to a super tight fit with an electric bread knife. I literally couldnt hear fireworks for july 4th or the crazy dog next door. Make sure you are very thorough soundproofing your door or outside noise will travel from other rooms.
I've also used memory foam. Has to be the high density type. IMO, it has better sound absorption and cuts down on echo and reverberation better than standard fiberglass or rockwool.
id like to see a test using a db meter with and without the window plug. Maybe have a lawnmower running sitting outside the window. Test without and with using the db meter to see how much it really blocks.
Great idea for a follow up video!
Try using cardboard, a lot lighter
I second this! I need need NEED to block out the noise from the street of my apartment. I didn’t realize it was this nosey when I signed the lease but it’s in the flight path of an airport! Here for a year so trying to make the most of the situation but curtains ain’t cutting it. Getting earplugs while I research and binge all your videos but for me- I just want to do whatever to block as much noise as possible and I’d love to see the decrease in sound.
Whatever I build I’ll share my results with you! Before and after with my dB ratings.
@@soundproofguide 3 months later... Upload the video please
+1 we are dying for this video :D
Isn't noise like water? (i.e. path of least resistance?)
The box frame is brilliant, but the weather strip is surely the weak point in stopping the noise getting through?
There is a rubber weatherstrip that might work even better!
I lived on a high road in an old Victorian house in London UK, the house had original single glazed windows and they let in a lot of noise and cold, i have drastically improved the noise just with weather strips that I have bought from the dollar £ store, it was crazy
Im about to do this with the vinyl mass thingy. The dogs barking in the others apartments are not letting me sleep at night. I would like to know your background to know how you became so knowledgable on this topic, maybe for a short or a video.
The large the air gap is between the window and window plug makes all the difference. Everything needs to be sealed air tight. The window frame cannot leak any air at all.
Fall/Winter is finally here & some of us have ac window units that allow a lot noise in . Is there’s ways to soundproof and window w an ac unit ?
What about installing glass block (if you own the home)? They let light in, but I would think that the thickness would reduce any sound coming in.
Great question! They have clear inserts on the market that works quite well! Here’s a link of a video I made testing one out - ua-cam.com/video/apEHGPTy2yc/v-deo.htmlsi=BjJmzeDQTtyJrGa8
Waste of money just buy new windows lol They will cost just as much
I purchased a "window insert" from a company called, "Indow". I bought it for noise reduction. It will be shipping to me soon. It is a test. I'm putting it into my kitchen window. I live in a condo apartment. I hear everything!!! I hear neighbors through my walls, which I tolerate. What I can't tolerate is the noise from the landscapers!! I'm on the second floor. When they use the machines to cut grass and bushes it is extremely noisy!! This is the main reason I'm getting this. However, the window in my bedroom is made up of four windows each measuring around 28" by 51". I paid a lot for the insert. I guess I would have to make maybe two plugs for this area. I appreciate your videos. Also, I have never built anything in my life so this would be a challenge!!
Indow windows works well if you already have a thin window that’s letting in a lot of noise! Here’s a video where I test out the indow window insert! You’ll be able to hear the difference! ua-cam.com/video/apEHGPTy2yc/v-deo.htmlsi=YLYt_0bPp8Q3lZI3
How did the insert work out?
what as the results? do it help much?
The larger the gap between the windows, the less sound comes through. Of course the windows and frames have to be sealed air tight. The same goes for walls.
Hi, how much is the cost of project in video?
I haven't laughed this hard at a DIY video in a long time, that construction was pure chaos and I love it.
🤣
Could I just use the mineral wool alone or would it start falling appart&pollute the air? Is MLV that important? I'm thinking the wool alone coul also be better as I could make it slightly larger and squeeze it in to close all the gaps
As an alternative to this I found that you can get solid hardwood shutters online custom made to measure. This means that you can block quite a lot of noise and still be able to open your window and get light in the daytime.
That would be cool to try! I’ll look for that and make a video and sound test using those! Thanks for the idea!!!
Great idea. To have internal (or even external) heavy wood extra window for noise and light (and some weather insulation as well)
3/4" Plywood and 1/2" cork underlay might be even better and lighter. Drywall/sheetrock tends to vibrate resonant frequencies with anything below 125Hz.
Great idea.
same concept as sound exiting the window vs entering? I assume it is. Trying to soundproof my windows for band practice.
Yes! Same concept! Let me know how it turns out!
Is there any downside to having a panel that rests against the walls over the window, rather than inside the window sill? My windows don’t have trim around them like in the video, so the sound panel would be flush to the wall. Seems like it would work as well if not better, because there would be overlap on the sides and top (but not bottom because of the sill sticking out). I am thinking of having some brackets to keep the panel in place.
Will this work for low frequencies?
What about making a window plug using 4 drywalls glued together and weather stripping to make sure no gaps are left.
Two 5/8" drywall will do fine, but it will be heavy. Makes sure there is 3-5" of dead space between the window and drywall plug... the more space the better. Seal it all with self-adhesive weather stripping and make sure no air or light is getting in.
@@JP5466 Thanks for the response JP. I have changed plan to place four 1" depth planks all around the window frame and then screwing L shaped brackets at the bottom one and then sticking a 3/4" MDF board with clamps screwed into the planks so that I can remove it when needed. Next month.
@@faisal-ca Just keep in mind that putting more screws into the window frame is going to cause more transfer of outside noise via vibration, especially the lower frequencies. It's better to double plywood/ drywall on the inner part of the window plug (the part facing you) so to avoid a triple leaf effect. I used 1/2" cork sheeting around the outside of the plug and the inside part of the window frame to make a air seal gasket. It also helps reduce the vibrational noise.
@@JP5466 Cork is a great idea. May be an acoustic sealant to seal it completely.
@@faisal-ca Can't use sealant because I didn't want the plug to be permanent, only when noise was an issue. I used Gorilla adhesive to glue the entire plug frame together. The plug is wedged in and held in place by it's tight fit. Measurements had to be very precise. I screwed 2 handles on the outside of the plug to make it easier to put in and take out. The 15" air gap is really the whole key here and why it works so well. Initially I was pulling my hair out with lots of trial and error until I started studying acoustic science, then I realized the air gap would do most of the work for me. Hope this helps you and good luck with your build.
4:00 A pilot hole should be about the diameter of the screw minus the thread of the screw, not the size of the entire screw.
People should also be aware that window frames aren't always perfectly square. They could be a bit out of alignment.
When I did a big area of heat shielding for my huge bedroom window, I had to add some strips of cardboard around the edges, to fill in the tiny gaps where light was still shining in. Now, most of the day the room is pretty well pitch black and it doesn't get as hot or cold as the rest of the house.
Yes I should have mentioned that about the window not completely square. The weatherstrip should do the rest. Thanks
How would we do this for a sliding door cause i live in an apartment where noise gets high with traffic.
I was thinking instead of stripping to seal it. Something like door sweeps to overlap. If somebody had leftover MLV that would make good overlap seal too I presume. [though the boogh ledge on that windows casing would make this difficult.]
I think MLV would stick and make it difficult to remove. Certain door sweep could definitely work!
@@soundproofguide I finally built mine 30lbs monsters
Has anyone tried this and how was the results. What was the 95% more quiet based off of?
Good question, the window plug in the video wasn't even finished being made.
Good for mids and highs, but low frequencies will still penetrate it.
Thanks for making this video! Attempting to build one myself. Will Flex Paste work as an acoustic caulk alternative to get the same results?
Flex paste should work the same for the type of application you’d use if for. Let me know how the plug turns out!!
Are there any videos for soundproofing basement windows?
If you have a deep window sill (mine is 15" deep) the sound reduction will be even better, just make sure there are no air gaps. Even low frequencies won't be able to bother you.
Hey Andy, I would like to know which one is more soundproofing... Acrylic or polycarbonate? Which should I be using as soundproof barrier? Thanks
They'll both work well, just make sure the dead air space gap is deep as possible with NO air leaks.
Can this be done for an entire wall? My bedroom faces the front of the house, and I hear neighbors slam their car doors in the morning. I can’t add a layer of drywall since I’m renting, I need to add another layer against the front wall
You can try hanging Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) directly on the wall with removable hooks or even mount it on a temporary frame to block sound. Acoustic panels can help absorb some noise, especially if you combine them with MLV. Soundproof curtains or thick blankets are also good options and easy to install with hooks. Lastly, placing a bookcase or other heavy furniture against the wall adds mass and helps dampen noise. These options don’t require permanent changes, so they’re great for renters!
@@soundproofguide I just sent you an email with my detailed plan. Lmk what you think
First comment 👀😅
Thanks for such valuable solutions, I will apply it and let you know the outcome
Thanks! Would love to know how it turns out!!
my Neighbour's Air Conditioner is Driving me Bonkers.....what can be done with heavy low frequency noise ???
Most of that noise would be coming in through the window. I’d start there.
Screwdriver through the condenser should fix your problem
How do you prevent it from falling out when it's inserted?
My casing is large enough to not have to worry about it falling. Just build it small enough so it completely fits in the window casing. The weatherstrip will also help keep it in place, especially if you buy rubber weatherstrip
@@soundproofguide I think my window has less depth than yours. I was thinking more like nailing both sides of the wall and placing a retractable support, but not exactly sure what parts to use.
I plan on installing door hook locks on the outside of the panel to the frame of the window for an extra layer of security incase it falls or my son tries to pull it out (he's 2)
I really need your help.
I live in apartment, and we have double dry wall, but the first wall is thin. Also my window is very thin too.
I want to play my electric guitar, but I don’t want to disturb my neighbors.
How do I block the sound waves from my room, and so my window, so my neighbors won’t hear me playing guitars.
I am struggling so hard.
Use headphones.
Can you make a revamp of this but making a clear window cover? or maybe slightly tinted? epoxy maybe? thanks!
I can definitely look into it! Great idea!
Where is the comparison video?
Love the chaotic craftsmanship 😂
Thank you!! 🤣
I had more anxiety watching this than any horror film
thebthing is that if it is just to sleep this is quite annoying to be putting in it on and off the morning after....
well KEPT!!!
If air passes through with light passing through, the whole thing is for naught.
I will need 10 of theses don’t think this a realistic option for me
A window plug?😂
I thought it is about soundproofing windows.
doesn't he sound like Bullwinkle the Moose? lol
Yeah, don't talk about mildew and mold that will develop over time behind that pane, and that are bad for your window frame.... ~sigh~
you should obviously take it out and ventilate daily....
Amateur