@@EXOVCDS Der Motor ist alt aber läuft gut und ich kann ihn selber reparieren. Aber wegen Diesel-Abgasen, darf man kaum noch damit fahren in Deutschland.
This is the story of real work in a real garage! no actors were used in this filming.Names have not been changed so the guilty are not protected! Nice work Thomas!
It’s a pleasure to watch you work, Thomas...so many great hints and solid advice. Your channel is one of my favorites of all time. I wish you nothing but the best and lots of success 👍🏼
Thank you very much... kind of you to say! Thank you for watching! Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers. Click the fkh161 link in the description and then click on "tool request" to send me the details!
I did the air inlet manifold and EGR clean last summer - a major job for me, as I hadn't attempted anything like before, but your's is the first video to mention coding! Nice, wish I'd seen earlier; but it's running fine (188,8851 miles).
Thanks Thomas so much for your excellent videos. I am currently following your videos to clean the EGR and intake manifold on my 2001 Golf TDI ALH. First time it's been done in the life of the car (only 256k Km). EGR was pretty bad (estimate 30-50% blocked) but manifold not too bad (maybe 10% blocked). The EGR cooler tubes where very gummed-up (estimate 90%), I used a wire to poke out the crap. I will drain the intercooler. I have following symptoms (no engine light though): 1) low on power, e.g. really noticeable driving up hills almost like in limp mode (I had limp mode a few years ago, had to replace turbo vane actuator which had rusted out, had the overboost engine light), 2) more smelly (with a bit more smoke) on cold starts than I remember from the past, 3) I don't hear the turbo whistle anymore for some reason. With the intake off the turbo I can spin the turbo easily and there's no play in the bearings. Any advice much appreciated! I have a used VAG COM being shipped to me now (genuine Ross Tech but older "KEY-USB" model) from a Kijiji seller, so hopefully be set-up with VAG COM/VCDS to check further and do the EGR limit adaptation according to your advice/video. Thanks again!!
Check to make sure that the turbo actuator rod is moving fully. It might not be moving all the way to the "stop screw" (quick spool position). Engine off, the rod lever should be away from the stop screw... have someone start the engine while you watch for movement. Use a telescoping mirror to look at the turbo from above, or raise the front of the vehicle and look at the turbo / actuator lever from below.
@@petergeralis3725 As with any car that is getting old... keep up with maintenance. Carbon build-up in the intake, timing belt service, check for / keep track off oil in the intercooler, clutch, brakes, belts & hoses... just regular maintenance stuff. These engines will easily run past 700K km's / 440k miles. If the car is a rust bucket, it's not worth maintaining / putting money into it for the long run. Just my opinion.
i took down my intercooler on "99 1.8t , to check for oil, nothing came out - very happy abou that, i just saw some oil stuck on the cooling elements inside i just washed it out, so i suppose before drilling in the intercooler first check (mostly for 1.8t on diesels i don't know) 👍👌 great job Thomas
Oil is normal in the intake system... no need to wash the cooler out. As long as no excessive amount of oil is present... the pcv system & turbo are ok. Thanks for watching!
I bought my '03 with 356 k miles. Went for a test drive with my friend that has 3 TDI experience, presently owns two. He drove as I figured who better to judge seat of the pants performance. The car barely made a long slight uphill grade, I believe he downshifted twice, cresting the hill in third gear. I never experienced such poor performance by any car! I bought the car! I did a thorough egr cleaning along with the intake, really an all day job. Car runs well and now maintains speed on cc over our local 2000 ft pass. Thomas, thanks so much for your inspiration, much appreciated. I am an old veteran without extra funds to support your efforts, nevertheless I thank you for the excellent presentations.
@@EXOVCDS Oh yes I did! Today I broke off one of the three injection pump sprocket bolts while doing an Injection timing in VCDS. I've found TDC and put the pin in. When I replace the bolts with fresh new can I rotate the sprocket to the fresh set of three slots? Thanks!
@@EXOVCDS I was able to drill a small hole for an easy out in the flush broken off bolt. The easy out was working until it wouldn't come out further. I decided to drill to the next size easy out for more leverage. As soon as I started drilling the bolt found life and quickly screwed through to the other side of the injection pump flange! I have to retrieve this little half bolt by removing the sprocket.
@@cosmoholovka ah, I understand now. Yes, you can use the fresh new slots. When positioning the belt, position the gear / sprocket so that when you adjust belt tension, the bolts will sit in the middle of the slots... this will allow for optimal adjustment in either direction (as need be when you check pump timing).
I'm getting exhaust fume in the cabin with heater running and air recirculation off but no exhaust fume with air recirculation on. I can smell it too from outside passenger side engine bay. Where is the usual leak spot around that area? I wonder if the low whistling noise when I step on gas pedal is from that leak too. Don't really notice the whistling when driving. I can only hear it when the car is stationary or during take off. I have taken EGR valve off to clean it before but never got around to remove the intake manifold. Afraid of stripping a head or brake it off :D
The most common source for exhaust leak is from the "flex pipe" between the turbo and the catalytic converter. Exhaust leaks should be relatively easy to spot... look for black carbon / soot. Could also be an exhaust manifold gasket between the turbo & cylinder head. Have a look around. Raise the front of the car (safely) so that you can get under the car. Remove the big splash guard (if there is one), have someone start the engine (from a cold start) and then move your hand along the exhaust (without touching it) to "feel" for exhaust blowing out.
Don't think it has anything to do with the egr on my car but I added a diesel fuel and injector cleaner (hydra blast) the results are Amazing! I thought my car was a bit jittery on revving which it was. Now though, smooth as you like. Like new!
Fuel injection cleaners work well... induction cleaning something like this, requires manual labor. Local emission laws permitting, venting PCV to atmospheric can keep the intake clean. ua-cam.com/video/4wC-MpOxrL0/v-deo.html
Scrape it out with various picks, screwdrivers, brushes... whatever works. I then wash / soak it in the parts cleaner and use brake parts cleaner as a final step. Small carbon spots that remain are a non issue. The "fire" method is too smokey for me and I don't want to take a chance of deforming / burning through the manifold. I'm looking to get an ultrasonic parts washer to clean the fine stuff that remains.
Hey, Thomas! Fantastic video! Quick question: my ‘03 Golf TDI has an EGR that appears to be leaking oil from the top of the diaphragm housing. I can also hear what sounds to be a small boost leak upon acceleration, which I assume is from said leak. I’m going to take it off and possibly replace. Just curious if you’ve seen that before. Car has 192k miles.
Yes I have... common. Oil is forced up the stem of the valve. I don`t think its a leak big enough to call a boost leak... it would have to be spraying oil far to be one. If the valve is just oily... it`s just a small leak (more visual than performance).
Hi , Great videos 👍 Hoping you can help me, We have a 2000 2.0ltr Vw beetle, We had to replace the water pump due to it failing we put a new one in and replaced cam belt at the same time, But since we’ve done this the car is still overheating and the fans are not coming on and the ac has stopped working, we have checked all the fuses on the battery for corrosion ect and these are in really good condition, also replaced thermo switches, I have also checked the fans and they are working when connected via direct power, We’ve flushed the cooling system ect but it’s still overheating we are at a loss as to what we can do to fix it, I am very mechanically minded but this as really got me stuck, could you suggest anything we have missed or we can try please help 👍
@@EXOVCDS thank you for getting back to me, We don’t have heat inside the car, The return feed was blocked at the pipe at the back of the throttle body but that’s clear now and water is returning back to the bottle but still getting overheated, The fans still not kicking in we’ve checked all fuses ect and still nothing it’s really frustrating that a simple waterpump and cam belt change has coursed us to be in this situation, I would just give up but the car is sentimental and has had a lot of time and money spent of her bodywork ect , It’s mad how the gremlins are starting to kick in lol
@@fincheradam if you didn't have any overheating issues, before,then you shouldn't now... unless the thermostat is stuck closed, which caused the pump impeller to fail (the old one).
It's a gradual loss of power that you don't really notice in day to day city driving... customers usually get things checked due to a check engine light before they notice a power loss issue.
Odds are that when a runaway occurs and the ignition is shut off, engine damage has already taken place. Meaning that a shut off flap / anti shutter flap is of little help / added protection (for a runaway).
@@EXOVCDS I worry about a runaway because it has 491,000 miles on the original turbo. Maybe I'll just delete the EGR and anti shutter then. I do drain the intercooler every month or so as a precaution
No risk, the engine just doesn't come to a stop as quickly without it. Check engine light may also be on, due to the EGR no longer working (unless an "EGR Delete Tune" is flashed to the ECM).
@@EXOVCDS understood. After the delete, I had no engine light thankfully. Apparently the 99.5 had its advantages over later MK4s. Why is city driving more prone to produce oil in the IC?
@@SFlores1979 Low RPM stop & go driving. Constant higher RPM / boost carries the oil out of the cooler... lower rpm / boost does not. Drive it like you stole it (more often)! LOL
Very valuable info to drain the intercooler!. Do it also when you replace the turbo. I did not know to do that after I did mine, and as soon as it spooled up, it started to run away, burning the remaining oil/fuel in the intercooler. Fortunately I recognized what was happening, and because it's a manual transmission I could control rpms with the clutch. Good job.
Yes...if the cooler is plugged (I've shown it in other videos) then you have to deal with that as well. Same goes for the intake ports in the head. When they are very clogged, we walnut blast them clean. Too many things to remember to mention... when I record live / unscripted. =(
I disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the egr and ignore the cel code p0402 created by doing this. Stops the carbon build up problem. Reconnect vacuum hose clear the cel and pass inspection. Then just disconnect again. This procedure will not help to clean an already restricted intake manifold. The ALH in my opinion was the best made longest lasting vw diesel engine. The only diesel engine better than the vw ALH is the American made Cummins 5.9l in my Dodge.
If you buy a set (they usually are sold as a set) you will use the one that fits. www.amazon.com/Amartisan-Lmpact-Extractor-Pieces-Remover/dp/B07X7FYZB7/
I have one question. Is it good for this energie if I regularly travel 250km distance by speed 150 or 160 km/h? The engine rpm are from 3000-3500rpm. Thanks for every answer.:)
Thomas EXOVCDS could you do a video on how to permanently fix the electrical system in a new beetle? Specifically, the fuse box on top of the battery melts. There is plenty of UA-cam videos talking about this. Nobody knows specifically what the problem is, so they change multiple items. I have a 1998 beetle tdi. My car has electrical problems. In the winter the glow plugs will not work. I was thinking it may be related to these electrical issues. How is your UA-cam channel going? Are you making any money at it yet?
My take on it... electricity flowing through a connection / fuse mounting point, creates heat. Over time, the heating & cooling can cause fuse connections (nuts, squeeze legs) to come loose. Once loose, a bad connection / resistance develops... which causes more heat, that starts to melt the plastic. A simple check / tightening of the nuts can keep them from coming loose / hot. The green fuses can be removed & inspected and reused if the legs do not look burnt. mk4 fuse boxes can be 20 years old at this point... as with anything, parts don't last forever. Installing a new fuse box and maintaining it (as mentioned earlier) should keep things in check.
Thomas EXOVCDS these fuse boxes have been melting since these cars where new. I have cars that are 40 years old without electrical issues. My guess it is cheap wires that are not 100% copper. I was wondering if you had ever had to fix this before. The melting wires happens on Jettas, golfs, beetles, Audi TT’s. My beetle has painted plastic!? I cannot believe VW would stoop so low as to paint plastic. A company that would paint plastic would have no problem using poor quality wire. Sad, sad, sad. Also, people install brand new fuse boxes and they also melt.
They don't make stuff like they used to (the compounds in plastic is different) that's true. All I know is that whenever I check fuse boxes, I check for loose nuts and signs of corrosion / heat. If the connections are clean & the nuts are tight, I leave it as is. When nuts are loose, I tighten them. When there's signs of heat, I clean the connections and tighten things back up. Our customers are returning customers, so I can easily keep an eye on things (no need to sell a new box right away, unless of course it's melted). Even though I have replaced many fuse boxes... there are many more vehicles (same vintage) that do not have any issues. Which makes me think that "nuts coming loose" is more of an issue than the type of wiring (then all vehicles would have the problem 100%).
@@EXOVCDS got a question if my autotrans is shifting in and out of second randomly and 3rd is rough I just replaced the valve body that was a ramen I replaced it bcuz the same problem was happening
@@EXOVCDS 2003 tdi 4 auto trans 280k miles did trans filter and fluid every 20k or 30k miles I've put about 100k on it since I got it the first fluid change on the trans when I got it was black as the oil
@@jacedetweiler7147 Probably worn internal components... if it doesn't shift / stay in gears correctly when shifting manually through the gears, then that would be my guess. I'm not an auto transmission guy, so I would get a second opinion from someone who's familiar with the 01M transmissions. Someone like Richard at: ua-cam.com/users/CoolAirVw
I can't take the easy way out... I don't have software that can reflash the ECM to delete the EGR. I have heard that blocking the EGR can reduce heat output in the cabin, because exhaust no longer flows through the cooler. Cleaning the EGR system every 4 years or as needed... isn't that big of a deal. You also get better fuel economy with a functional EGR.
I hate diesels. They stink and plug your lungs. When I was 12 I lived in the UK. All I remember about the roads was listening to the clanking of Bedford’s and those big red busses. The smell didn’t bother me as much back then. But now? All the Ford diesel pick ups have proved to b absolute trash. None of their pollution systems work for more than 25,000 miles. The Dodges r a little better. Chevy makes the best one in my humble opinion. They don’t seem to stink when u get behind them. Poor Boddgit and Diagnose Dan seem to have to b working on them all the time. Diesel in their pores. How could the car companies chose such filth for their homes. Thank u MB, VW, Bedford. Yeah I know I’m stupid
I grew up driving my Uncle's tractor when I was 9... love the smell of those old diesels. The VW common rail diesels don't smell / smoke. This ALH smells OK for me. When I was in Germany this past June... I found out that they are restricting and planning on eliminating Diesel vehicles access into bigger cities. My biggest issue with them these days is the over engineering / designs to make them run "clean". All of our customers that drive common rail diesels... don't have the money to actually get them repaired when the time comes. It's kind of funny.
@@cotjocky466 Possibly... that cars are heading in that direction. VCR's, DVD players, Widescreen TV's etc... everything is cheap, so you just buy new (cheaper than repairing).
Greetings from Germany, I'm one of the few people to still run an ALH here
Griaß Di God! Isch echt a scheenr modor!
@@EXOVCDS Der Motor ist alt aber läuft gut und ich kann ihn selber reparieren. Aber wegen Diesel-Abgasen, darf man kaum noch damit fahren in Deutschland.
@@linuxwave Schade. =(
Have the same one here in Slovenia, liebe grübe für alle VAG Leute 😀
That's why we all watch you , you actually do this for a living and not play an auto tech on youtube - you are an auto tech on youtube 👍
But I don't want to be a Tech anymore... I just want to play on UA-cam!!!!!!
@@EXOVCDS If I candoit socanu😅
I hope so... I hope so!
@@EXOVCDS You and I just finished a vid together yesterday for spring 2019 Next time I'll actually have you in the vid . 😅😅
Nice of you to include me... I feel bad for not including you as often in my videos! =(
This is the story of real work in a real garage! no actors were used in this filming.Names have not been changed so the guilty are not protected! Nice work Thomas!
I stepped on my own toes... this video "glanced" over an issue! LOL
UA-cam first by Thomas saving engines I love it
Saving engines... at least for those who listen to me. =)
@@EXOVCDS What?
What did he say?
I always appreciate the info that's in your Video's Thomas. Thanks!
We all need a good laugh sometimes. =)
Deja vu... have we had this conversation before? LOL
It’s a pleasure to watch you work, Thomas...so many great hints and solid advice. Your channel is one of my favorites of all time. I wish you nothing but the best and lots of success 👍🏼
Thank you very much... kind of you to say! Thank you for watching! Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers. Click the fkh161 link in the description and then click on "tool request" to send me the details!
No matter how many times I see one of those intake manifolds blocked like that I'm just amazed. Nice work Thomas. Thanks!
Me too! =)
I did the air inlet manifold and EGR clean last summer - a major job for me, as I hadn't attempted anything like before, but your's is the first video to mention coding! Nice, wish I'd seen earlier; but it's running fine (188,8851 miles).
Coding ("adaptation") is NOT required... it is an "option"... to slow carbon build up.
But Scotty shouts, so he must be telling the truth....... 😜
Thanks Thomas so much for your excellent videos. I am currently following your videos to clean the EGR and intake manifold on my 2001 Golf TDI ALH. First time it's been done in the life of the car (only 256k Km). EGR was pretty bad (estimate 30-50% blocked) but manifold not too bad (maybe 10% blocked). The EGR cooler tubes where very gummed-up (estimate 90%), I used a wire to poke out the crap. I will drain the intercooler. I have following symptoms (no engine light though): 1) low on power, e.g. really noticeable driving up hills almost like in limp mode (I had limp mode a few years ago, had to replace turbo vane actuator which had rusted out, had the overboost engine light), 2) more smelly (with a bit more smoke) on cold starts than I remember from the past, 3) I don't hear the turbo whistle anymore for some reason. With the intake off the turbo I can spin the turbo easily and there's no play in the bearings. Any advice much appreciated! I have a used VAG COM being shipped to me now (genuine Ross Tech but older "KEY-USB" model) from a Kijiji seller, so hopefully be set-up with VAG COM/VCDS to check further and do the EGR limit adaptation according to your advice/video. Thanks again!!
Check to make sure that the turbo actuator rod is moving fully. It might not be moving all the way to the "stop screw" (quick spool position). Engine off, the rod lever should be away from the stop screw... have someone start the engine while you watch for movement. Use a telescoping mirror to look at the turbo from above, or raise the front of the vehicle and look at the turbo / actuator lever from below.
33768 is the best thing I've done for my ALH. Been over 3 years and well over 150k miles with absolutely no intake carbon buildup.
It definitely can help!
I noticed you said that... I’m gonna get a alh because I commute 140 miles a day. Any other things you can recommend
@@petergeralis3725 not sure whom you're asking or who said that.
Thomas EXOVCDS sorry don’t know why I responded that way. What other problems should I be aware of for ALH?
@@petergeralis3725 As with any car that is getting old... keep up with maintenance. Carbon build-up in the intake, timing belt service, check for / keep track off oil in the intercooler, clutch, brakes, belts & hoses... just regular maintenance stuff. These engines will easily run past 700K km's / 440k miles. If the car is a rust bucket, it's not worth maintaining / putting money into it for the long run. Just my opinion.
i took down my intercooler on "99 1.8t , to check for oil, nothing came out - very happy abou that, i just saw some oil stuck on the cooling elements inside i just washed it out, so i suppose before drilling in the intercooler first check (mostly for 1.8t on diesels i don't know) 👍👌 great job Thomas
Oil is normal in the intake system... no need to wash the cooler out. As long as no excessive amount of oil is present... the pcv system & turbo are ok. Thanks for watching!
I bought my '03 with 356 k miles. Went for a test drive with my friend that has 3 TDI experience, presently owns two. He drove as I figured who better to judge seat of the pants performance. The car barely made a long slight uphill grade, I believe he downshifted twice, cresting the hill in third gear. I never experienced such poor performance by any car! I bought the car! I did a thorough egr cleaning along with the intake, really an all day job. Car runs well and now maintains speed on cc over our local 2000 ft pass. Thomas, thanks so much for your inspiration, much appreciated. I am an old veteran without extra funds to support your efforts, nevertheless I thank you for the excellent presentations.
Congrats on the "new to you" vehicle purchase! Thank you for the kind words! Did you clean / drain / check the intercooler of excess oil?
@@EXOVCDS Oh yes I did! Today I broke off one of the three injection pump sprocket bolts while doing an Injection timing in VCDS. I've found TDC and put the pin in. When I replace the bolts with fresh new can I rotate the sprocket to the fresh set of three slots? Thanks!
@@cosmoholovka I'm not sure what you mean. You can replace one bolt at a time and not alter pump gear position.
@@EXOVCDS I was able to drill a small hole for an easy out in the flush broken off bolt. The easy out was working until it wouldn't come out further. I decided to drill to the next size easy out for more leverage. As soon as I started drilling the bolt found life and quickly screwed through to the other side of the injection pump flange! I have to retrieve this little half bolt by removing the sprocket.
@@cosmoholovka ah, I understand now. Yes, you can use the fresh new slots. When positioning the belt, position the gear / sprocket so that when you adjust belt tension, the bolts will sit in the middle of the slots... this will allow for optimal adjustment in either direction (as need be when you check pump timing).
@3:12 SHOTS FIRED!
It's ok... they are all blanks.
That’s a good idea to remove the valve to see the back side. And nice to show the recalibration in the software. 😀👍
For offroad use only!!! =)
We appreciate your real deal efforts. Thank u!!
Hope I didn't sound grumpy! D'oh! =)
Thanks for your time and effort
Thank you for watching!
Wow! Thank you so much! Didn't know any of this about my egr, cool, thanks a lot! More great advice from your good self. :)
Thank you!
Excellent as always mate fantastic information as always you're the man
Check is in the mail... again.
Hay Thomas was there much carbon build up on the engine side
of the inlet manifold going into the head blocking the valves etc ? cheers Brett
Sometimes yes, sometimes no. I use a shop vac & a pick to clean out most. Walnut blasting works well when the engine is out of the vehicle.
Top notch as always...a credit to our profession.
Thank you.
Top job Thomas as always, that was an ugly EGR, experience and knowledge are absolutely priceless... thanks for sharing Bud👍
I stumble across solutions now & then... even if they are not politically correct! =)
I'm getting exhaust fume in the cabin with heater running and air recirculation off but no exhaust fume with air recirculation on. I can smell it too from outside passenger side engine bay. Where is the usual leak spot around that area? I wonder if the low whistling noise when I step on gas pedal is from that leak too. Don't really notice the whistling when driving. I can only hear it when the car is stationary or during take off. I have taken EGR valve off to clean it before but never got around to remove the intake manifold. Afraid of stripping a head or brake it off :D
The most common source for exhaust leak is from the "flex pipe" between the turbo and the catalytic converter. Exhaust leaks should be relatively easy to spot... look for black carbon / soot. Could also be an exhaust manifold gasket between the turbo & cylinder head. Have a look around. Raise the front of the car (safely) so that you can get under the car. Remove the big splash guard (if there is one), have someone start the engine (from a cold start) and then move your hand along the exhaust (without touching it) to "feel" for exhaust blowing out.
Thomas! Way to school the Pros (?)! Great job. 😁
crimp creep I thought the same thing!!! I see so many car channels that never show car repair Humble mechanic is another one.
Don't think it has anything to do with the egr on my car but I added a diesel fuel and injector cleaner (hydra blast) the results are Amazing! I thought my car was a bit jittery on revving which it was. Now though, smooth as you like. Like new!
Fuel injection cleaners work well... induction cleaning something like this, requires manual labor. Local emission laws permitting, venting PCV to atmospheric can keep the intake clean.
ua-cam.com/video/4wC-MpOxrL0/v-deo.html
@@EXOVCDS I have no idea? I'll copy that link later. I'm on my mobile right now and I can't copy the link for some reason?
Thomas, what do you use to clean that much carbon build-up?
Scrape it out with various picks, screwdrivers, brushes... whatever works. I then wash / soak it in the parts cleaner and use brake parts cleaner as a final step. Small carbon spots that remain are a non issue. The "fire" method is too smokey for me and I don't want to take a chance of deforming / burning through the manifold. I'm looking to get an ultrasonic parts washer to clean the fine stuff that remains.
Hey, Thomas! Fantastic video! Quick question: my ‘03 Golf TDI has an EGR that appears to be leaking oil from the top of the diaphragm housing. I can also hear what sounds to be a small boost leak upon acceleration, which I assume is from said leak. I’m going to take it off and possibly replace. Just curious if you’ve seen that before. Car has 192k miles.
Yes I have... common. Oil is forced up the stem of the valve. I don`t think its a leak big enough to call a boost leak... it would have to be spraying oil far to be one. If the valve is just oily... it`s just a small leak (more visual than performance).
Hi , Great videos 👍 Hoping you can help me, We have a 2000 2.0ltr Vw beetle, We had to replace the water pump due to it failing we put a new one in and replaced cam belt at the same time, But since we’ve done this the car is still overheating and the fans are not coming on and the ac has stopped working, we have checked all the fuses on the battery for corrosion ect and these are in really good condition, also replaced thermo switches, I have also checked the fans and they are working when connected via direct power, We’ve flushed the cooling system ect but it’s still overheating we are at a loss as to what we can do to fix it, I am very mechanically minded but this as really got me stuck, could you suggest anything we have missed or we can try please help 👍
Do you have heat inside the car once the coolant gets warm? Is coolant flowing back into the coolant reservoir when the engine is idling?
Watch this video (whole video).
ua-cam.com/video/ln4grYe3WnE/v-deo.html
You could have an air lock due to a plugged return line somewhere.
@@EXOVCDS thank you for getting back to me, We don’t have heat inside the car, The return feed was blocked at the pipe at the back of the throttle body but that’s clear now and water is returning back to the bottle but still getting overheated, The fans still not kicking in we’ve checked all fuses ect and still nothing it’s really frustrating that a simple waterpump and cam belt change has coursed us to be in this situation, I would just give up but the car is sentimental and has had a lot of time and money spent of her bodywork ect , It’s mad how the gremlins are starting to kick in lol
@@fincheradam if you didn't have any overheating issues, before,then you shouldn't now... unless the thermostat is stuck closed, which caused the pump impeller to fail (the old one).
How many horse power does the engine loose do you think when its looking like that ?
It's a gradual loss of power that you don't really notice in day to day city driving... customers usually get things checked due to a check engine light before they notice a power loss issue.
That's right! Your the real deal Thomas!
Slowly working my way up the food chain! =)
Awesome video
Thank you Thank you
Thank you for watching... I have a complete step by step removal video of the manifold if you need one.
ua-cam.com/video/4n3Ui81kXI0/v-deo.html
that reminds me next time I change oil this spring i need to drain my intercooler, been a couple years but there wasn't anything in it
Inspection is key!
I was afraid to delete my EGR because I figured the anti shutter valve in there would help stop a runaway. Am I correct in thinking this?
Odds are that when a runaway occurs and the ignition is shut off, engine damage has already taken place. Meaning that a shut off flap / anti shutter flap is of little help / added protection (for a runaway).
@@EXOVCDS I worry about a runaway because it has 491,000 miles on the original turbo. Maybe I'll just delete the EGR and anti shutter then. I do drain the intercooler every month or so as a precaution
I have a catch can as well
@@wizbang16 You should be fine then.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you!
4:20 What risks are there if the EGR valve is not installed and therefore the flap is non-existent in the system? i.e. EGR delete
No risk, the engine just doesn't come to a stop as quickly without it. Check engine light may also be on, due to the EGR no longer working (unless an "EGR Delete Tune" is flashed to the ECM).
@@EXOVCDS understood. After the delete, I had no engine light thankfully. Apparently the 99.5 had its advantages over later MK4s. Why is city driving more prone to produce oil in the IC?
@@SFlores1979 Low RPM stop & go driving. Constant higher RPM / boost carries the oil out of the cooler... lower rpm / boost does not. Drive it like you stole it (more often)! LOL
@@EXOVCDS ahhhhh that makes more sense why I’ve heard that haha you don’t need to tell me twice!!!
Very valuable info to drain the intercooler!. Do it also when you replace the turbo. I did not know to do that after I did mine, and as soon as it spooled up, it started to run away, burning the remaining oil/fuel in the intercooler. Fortunately I recognized what was happening, and because it's a manual transmission I could control rpms with the clutch.
Good job.
Lucky! Thanks for sharing!
I've never seen an intake that clogged up, and look at you calling out Chris fix and Kilmer!
I've seen one plugged to the size of a quarter!!! If I find the picture, I'll post it here.
One way to get my channel noticed... I hope.
kilmer 😕 he is very vague, he talks "in generally terms" for the mass audience.....
But what about the cooler itself. Mine was plugged right solid which is why I went the delete route. Cooler is expensive!
Yes...if the cooler is plugged (I've shown it in other videos) then you have to deal with that as well. Same goes for the intake ports in the head. When they are very clogged, we walnut blast them clean. Too many things to remember to mention... when I record live / unscripted. =(
The Doctor 💪
Practicing nurse... more like it. =)
I disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the egr and ignore the cel code p0402 created by doing this. Stops the carbon build up problem. Reconnect vacuum hose clear the cel and pass inspection. Then just disconnect again. This procedure will not help to clean an already restricted intake manifold. The ALH in my opinion was the best made longest lasting vw diesel engine. The only diesel engine better than the vw ALH is the American made Cummins 5.9l in my Dodge.
Yup.
Great tips, thanks.
Thank you for watching!
What size extractor socket on this video
If you buy a set (they usually are sold as a set) you will use the one that fits.
www.amazon.com/Amartisan-Lmpact-Extractor-Pieces-Remover/dp/B07X7FYZB7/
I have one question. Is it good for this energie if I regularly travel 250km distance by speed 150 or 160 km/h? The engine rpm are from 3000-3500rpm. Thanks for every answer.:)
Yes, it's better than low speed city driving.
@@EXOVCDS thank you! Now, i can be calm :)
Make sure to check your intercooler for excessive oil / drain the intercooler!
@@EXOVCDS i do it four times per year :)
Bro not just glancing u was dying laughing
Bro... I don't know what that means.
@@EXOVCDS from 3:30 - 345 I was dying laughing bc it's so true thx for the for sharing the knowledge clear clean and short
@@ramironieves6392 Ha, I forgot about that little audio bit. I wasn't in my happy place that day. LOL
Awesome Video
You are the Best
Thank you for watching!
Getting salty there Thomas😉😃😃😃😃
Always!
I love your final comment!!! 👍
Thank you for watching!
Thomas EXOVCDS could you do a video on how to permanently fix the electrical system in a new beetle?
Specifically, the fuse box on top of the battery melts. There is plenty of UA-cam videos talking about this. Nobody knows specifically what the problem is, so they change multiple items.
I have a 1998 beetle tdi. My car has electrical problems. In the winter the glow plugs will not work. I was thinking it may be related to these electrical issues.
How is your UA-cam channel going? Are you making any money at it yet?
My take on it... electricity flowing through a connection / fuse mounting point, creates heat. Over time, the heating & cooling can cause fuse connections (nuts, squeeze legs) to come loose. Once loose, a bad connection / resistance develops... which causes more heat, that starts to melt the plastic. A simple check / tightening of the nuts can keep them from coming loose / hot. The green fuses can be removed & inspected and reused if the legs do not look burnt. mk4 fuse boxes can be 20 years old at this point... as with anything, parts don't last forever. Installing a new fuse box and maintaining it (as mentioned earlier) should keep things in check.
Thomas EXOVCDS these fuse boxes have been melting since these cars where new.
I have cars that are 40 years old without electrical issues.
My guess it is cheap wires that are not 100% copper. I was wondering if you had ever had to fix this before. The melting wires happens on Jettas, golfs, beetles, Audi TT’s.
My beetle has painted plastic!? I cannot believe VW would stoop so low as to paint plastic. A company that would paint plastic would have no problem using poor quality wire.
Sad, sad, sad.
Also, people install brand new fuse boxes and they also melt.
They don't make stuff like they used to (the compounds in plastic is different) that's true. All I know is that whenever I check fuse boxes, I check for loose nuts and signs of corrosion / heat. If the connections are clean & the nuts are tight, I leave it as is. When nuts are loose, I tighten them. When there's signs of heat, I clean the connections and tighten things back up. Our customers are returning customers, so I can easily keep an eye on things (no need to sell a new box right away, unless of course it's melted). Even though I have replaced many fuse boxes... there are many more vehicles (same vintage) that do not have any issues. Which makes me think that "nuts coming loose" is more of an issue than the type of wiring (then all vehicles would have the problem 100%).
Lol he ment to say never put the egr back in just throw it away
I'll have to ask him.
@@EXOVCDS got a question if my autotrans is shifting in and out of second randomly and 3rd is rough I just replaced the valve body that was a ramen I replaced it bcuz the same problem was happening
@@jacedetweiler7147 Year, make, model, 4 speed auto, 5 speed auto, tiptronic etc?
@@EXOVCDS 2003 tdi 4 auto trans 280k miles did trans filter and fluid every 20k or 30k miles I've put about 100k on it since I got it the first fluid change on the trans when I got it was black as the oil
@@jacedetweiler7147 Probably worn internal components... if it doesn't shift / stay in gears correctly when shifting manually through the gears, then that would be my guess. I'm not an auto transmission guy, so I would get a second opinion from someone who's familiar with the 01M transmissions. Someone like Richard at:
ua-cam.com/users/CoolAirVw
Drain your oil, i learn the hard way...
Thank you for watching!
That was pretty mucky
Mucky that's a tough one.
How about
dreckig
or schmutzig
No no how about
du Ferkel!
Du Ferkel... haven't heard that in a long time! =)
Just delete the egr valve, the engine will thank you!
I can't take the easy way out... I don't have software that can reflash the ECM to delete the EGR. I have heard that blocking the EGR can reduce heat output in the cabin, because exhaust no longer flows through the cooler. Cleaning the EGR system every 4 years or as needed... isn't that big of a deal. You also get better fuel economy with a functional EGR.
Teeth marks aye? If we brush our teeth why don't we use a teeth brush to clean them and not a tooth brush.
You heard it here first folks.
Good vid Brother.
Thanks... English is more difficult the older I get! LOL
2nd 😁
1st BOOM
you beat me ;(
@@Badgertronix 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@Badgertronix that's what little Leon said to big Leon! LOL
@@EXOVCDS Wait didn't Michael Jackson say that?
I hate diesels. They stink and plug your lungs. When I was 12 I lived in the UK. All I remember about the roads was listening to the clanking of Bedford’s and those big red busses. The smell didn’t bother me as much back then. But now? All the Ford diesel pick ups have proved to b absolute trash. None of their pollution systems work for more than 25,000 miles. The Dodges r a little better. Chevy makes the best one in my humble opinion. They don’t seem to stink when u get behind them. Poor Boddgit and Diagnose Dan seem to have to b working on them all the time. Diesel in their pores. How could the car companies chose such filth for their homes. Thank u MB, VW, Bedford. Yeah I know I’m stupid
I grew up driving my Uncle's tractor when I was 9... love the smell of those old diesels. The VW common rail diesels don't smell / smoke. This ALH smells OK for me. When I was in Germany this past June... I found out that they are restricting and planning on eliminating Diesel vehicles access into bigger cities. My biggest issue with them these days is the over engineering / designs to make them run "clean". All of our customers that drive common rail diesels... don't have the money to actually get them repaired when the time comes. It's kind of funny.
Sounds like planned obsolescence that car manufacturers love to implement to get you to buy a new one!@@EXOVCDS
@@cotjocky466 Possibly... that cars are heading in that direction. VCR's, DVD players, Widescreen TV's etc... everything is cheap, so you just buy new (cheaper than repairing).